Chapter 18 Braiding and Braid Extensions
description
Transcript of Chapter 18 Braiding and Braid Extensions
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Chapter 18
Braiding and Braid Extensions
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•Origins in Africa
•Different styles
~ social status
•More important the person, the more elaborate
the braids were
Amyhairbraiding.com
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Ehow.com
Cedarartworld.com
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•Today
~ signals self-esteem and self-image
•Africa
~ handed down from generation to generation
•Investment of time
•African cultures
~ opportunity for women to socialize and form relationships
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•Today
~ salons practice “natural hairstyling”
•No chemicals
~ does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern
•For people of all ethnicities
•Diverse approach to hair care
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•With proper care
~ can last up to three months
~ 6-8 weeks preserves the health of the hair
•Investment in time and money is high
•Detailed consultation
~ ensures a happy ending
•Fill out client card
~ update every appointment
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Ehow.com
Hometownhairbraiding.com
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Hair Analysis
Consultation:
~ condition of hair and scalp
~ texture (3 qualities)
1. Diameter
~ coarse, medium, or fine
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2. Feel
~ oily, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, or wiry
3. Wave pattern (coil configuration)
~ straight, wavy, curly, or coiled
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•Coil
~ very tight curl
~ spiral in formation
~ when stretched,
resembles loops
• “Textured hair”=
tight coil pattern
Manandchic.blogspot.com
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Consider:
•Density
~ where hair is thin
•Condition
~ damage and breakage
•Length
~ physically long enough
•Scalp health
~ healthy/properly cared for
Read FYI
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Page 517 Oval Face
•Most braids are appropriate
Round Face
•Add height
***Asymmetrical creates a slenderizing look
•High on top
*secured below the crown in back
Hairweb.org
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Hairbytowanda.com
Pabeautystation.co.uk
http://www.natural-hair-care-info.com/cornrow-gallery.html
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Square face
•Longer braids to frame the face
Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face
***Partial bangs
***Frame the face
***Fullness at chin
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Triangular (Pear) Face
•Bring braids forward at chin line
http://braids.nicehairstyles.net/tag/micro-braids-hairstyles-2/
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Oblong Face
***Full styles
***Partial bangs
***Medium length
***Avoid middle parts
•Side chignon
Morris-roots.com
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Tools for Braiding
Boar-bristle brush
~ stimulates scalp
~ removes dirt and lint
•Soft nylon brush
~ fine
~ soft hair at hairlineCherrybrook.com
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Square paddle brush
~ releases tangles, knots, and snarls
~ cushion of air (bristles collapse with resistance
*prevents breakage in fragile hair
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Vent brush
~ gently to remove tangles
~ wet or dry hair
•Use on human hair extensions
•Check tips
~ even if one is missing/discard
fbi4u.com
Cachebeauty.com
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Wide-toothed comb
~ teeth width
~ medium to large
•Avoidsscratching the scalp
•Allows textured hair to move between rows of teeth
Cosmeticmarket.com
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Double-tooth comb
~ separates the hair
~ detangles wet hair
Tail comb
~ for design parting
~ sectioning large segments
~ opening and removing braids
Beauty-relaxation.co.za
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Finishing comb
~ 8 to 10” in length
~ used while cutting
~ fine/straight hair
Beautystore.com
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Cutting comb
~ for small sections
~ use after hair is softened and elongated with blow-dryer
Pick with round teeth
~ lifting and separating
*** one in kit
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Blow-dryer with pick nozzle
~ dries, stretches, and softens
Diffuser
~ dries without disturbing the finished look
Folica.com
$187.00
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Five-inch scissors
~ creates shape and finished look
~ trims bangs (fringe)
~ excess extension material
Long clips
~ separates into
large sections
Sleekhair.com
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Butterfly and small clips
~ separates into various sections
Hooded dryer
~ remove excess moisture before blowdrying
Small rubber bands or string
~secure the ends
Read: State Regulatory Alert
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Extensions
Extension fibers-list to follow
Hackle
~ board of fine upright nails
~ used to detangle and
blend colors
Hairlineillusions.com
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Drawing board
~ flat leather pads with close and fine teeth
~ sandwich the human
hair extensions
madeinchina.com
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Materials and Extensions
•The fibers you use will determine
~ how successful
~ durable the extension will be
•Buying new product:
~ buy in small quantities
~ test the fiber on a mannequin first
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Human hair
~ gold standard
~ imported from Asia
~ little information about the process
~ is it 100% ?
~ deal with suppliers you know and trust
Vogishchic.info
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Kanekalon
~ manufactured, synthetic fiber of excellent quality
~variety of types, colors, textures
***less shine
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Madeinchina.com
Tradeeasy.com
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~ some are high-heat resistant
~ durable, soft, less tangling
~ holds up to shampooing and styling
***costs more/better quality
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Nylon or rayon synthetic
~ less expensive
~ varying qualities
~ reflects light/very shiny
~ known to cut or break the hair
~ repeated shampooing=less durable
~ will melt if high heat is applied
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Samantha140508.blogspot.com
Whyareyouyelling.blogspot.com
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Yarn
~ made of cotton or nylon blend
~ very inexpensive
~ light, soft, and detangles easily
~ available in many colors
~ matte finish
~ expands when shampooed
* will not slip
~ appear black in store/shows blue or green tint in natural light
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Quinnster,fgdn.net
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Lin
~ wool fiber from Africa
~ matte finish
~ only in black and brown
~ comes in roll
~ any length and size
~ very flammable
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Yak
~ strong fiber
~ domestic ox
~ use alone or blend with human hair
~ mixed helps to remove manufactured shine
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2001everest.com
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Wellbanklochans.co.uk
Tradeindia.com
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Working With Wet or Dry Hair
~ best dry/wet shrinks
~ tension leads to breakage
~ wet-allow for shrinkage
~ straight, resistant hair
*coat with wax or pomade
Read Caution
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~ if shampooed, apply leave-in conditioner
~ use wide-toothed comb
* detangling comb
~ blow-dry the hair
~ wax, pomades, gels, or lotions can be used
~ use large paddle brush
~ start at ends to remove tangles
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~ textured hair is
* very fragile/wet and dry
~ blow-dry quickly
* softens
* more manageable
~ loosens and elongates wave pattern * easier “pick-up”
* manipulation of the hair
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Braiding the Hair
•Classified
~ visible or invisible
Visible braid
~ three-strand braid
~ underhand technique
~ left and right sides woven under center strand
***used for cornrows
cute2try.hairdos.blogspot.com
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Invisible braid
~ three-strand braid
~ overlapping
~ overhand technique
~left and right strands go over the middle one
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Amothers’journal.com
Hairboutique.com
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Rope Braid
•Two strands
~ twisted around each other
~ on one-length or long, layered hair
~ add to both sides before twisting
***done on dry hair
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Farm2static.flickr.com
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Fishtail Braid
•Simple two-strand braid
~ hair picked up from sides
~ added to the strands as they are crossed over each other
*** done on dry hair
~ non-layered hair, at least shoulder length
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Hairboutique.com
Electricbanana.typepad.com
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Invisible Braid
•On or off the scalp
•With or without extensions
•Straight layered hair-use wax or pomade
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Single Braids
Terms: single, box, individual
~ all refer to free-hanging braids
~ with or without tension
~ either underhand or overhand stitch
~ all hair textures
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Subsections
~ square
~ triangular
~ rectangular
~ parting determine where braid is * how it moves
~ moves in any direction
Math.buffalo.edu
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Naturallyyoumagazine.blogspot.com
Amandahairbraiding.com
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•Extensions
~ for single braids
* integrated into the natural hair
~ select synthetic hair, yarn, or human hair
~ vital in the finished style
~ must be consistent and close together
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Picasaweb.google.com
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•During consultation
~ open package
~ verify that color is correct
~ cut to desired length
~ place on drawing board
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~ place a heavy object on top
~ allows easy extract
~ can be separated and dispensed free-hand
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Cornrows
•Or canerows
~ narrow strips of visible braid
*lie close to the scalp
~ on-the-scalp technique
~ consistent even partings
www.freshafroeuropeansalon.co.uk/page8.htm
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~ mannequin to practice
* speed
*accuracy
* finger and wrist dexterity
~ worn by men, women, and children
www.naani.com/cornrows-photos-gallery
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Combination cornrow with single braids in backMaasaibraids.com
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~ various lengths and textures
~ elaborate designs
~ skill and creative expression
~ can last several weeks without extensions
~ two months with extensions
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Cornrows with Extensions
~ feed-in method
~ built up strand by strand
~ excess extension material
* too much weight on fragile hairline
* leaves an unrealistic finished look
~ correct tension eliminates artificial look
*prevents breakage
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www.latinhairbraids.com/index.php/examples/form/
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•Traditional
~ flat, natural, and contoured
~ partings define the finished style
~ creates a tapered or narrow base at the hairline
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~ extension hair
* fills in the base
~ takes longer
~ lasts longer
~ looks more natural
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•When picking up hair
~ directly underneath
~ never comes from another panel
~ or extended up into the braid from a lower part
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•Overextending or misplacing the beginning of the extension
~ leaves hair exposed and unsupported
~ leads to breakage and hair loss especially at hairline
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Tree Braids
•Newer way to add hair for longer looks
•Client’s hair is braided along with extension
•Finished look shows mostly faux hair
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http://stylesbyjamille.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=65745800
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=tree+braids+styles&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=Dkap13ZK90cnnM:&imgrefurl=http://www.nonyehairbraiding.com/nonye/specialty.php%3Fmghash%3D6d..%26mggal%3D8&docid=EKGRDarDDzUlWM&imgurl=http://www.nonyehairbraiding.com/nonye/studio/images/8/pic_10.jpg&w=448&h=299&ei=idmBT6iiHY_iggfp9bzsBw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=706&vpy=222&dur=22&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=105&ty=100&sig=117154882344098738236&page=4&tbnh=135&tbnw=192&start=63&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:63,i:234
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•Takes about 4 hours
•Techniques are still evolving
•Many ways to do them.
•You can read on if interested in these braids.
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Locks
•Or dreadlocks
~ hair that is intertwined and meshed together
~ forms a single or separate network of hair
~ without chemicals
~ several slow phases
~ can take six months to one year
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To cultivate locks
~ double twisting
~ wrapping with cord
~ coiling
~ braiding
~ or not combing or brushing
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•Rastafarians of Jamaica
~ natural course will cause it to lock
(Rasta is a religion of respect of all living things and self-respect)
•Cultivated African locks ~ have symmetry and
balanceMagicdragon.org
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Comb Technique
•Early stage
~ while the coil is still open
~ place comb at base of the scalp
* with a rotating motion
* spiraling the hair into a curl
~ comb moves down to the end
~ gives a tight coil
~ excellent on short hair
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Palm Roll
~ gentlest
~ guides it through all the natural stages of locking
~ apply gel to dampened subsections
~ place portion of hair between palms of both hands
~ roll in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction
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~ move down the coil shaft
•Partings are:
~ directional
~ horizontal
~ vertical
~ bricklayered
•Decorative designs
•Sculpting patterns are creative options
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Rastafarian.info
Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com
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Braids or Extensions
~ involves sectioning the hair
* single braiding
~ synthetic fiber, yarn, or human hair * added to single braid to form a
lock
~ after several weeks, braid will grow away from the scalp
~ palm roll used to cultivate the new growth to form a lock
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Coolmenshair.com/2008
Associatedcontent.com
Micro braidsMerchantcircle.com
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Womensbeautylife.com
Pro.corbis.com
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Picasaweb.google.com
Senegalese twists
*Synthetic hair
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Tree braidsLonghaircareforum.com
Kinky twistsMerchantcircle.com