BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast · 2017-12-24 · abv: 13.5% Price: $40 90 . Adega Mayor 2010...

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BUYING GUIDEOCTOBER 2012

2 PORTUGAL

19 SPAIN

25 PROVENCE

25 SOUTHWEST FRANCE

28 RHÔNE

32 OTHER FRANCE

33 TUSCANY

36 CENTRAL ITALY

42 ARGENTINA

46 MEXICO

47 CALIFORNIA

66 OREGON

70 SPIRITS

75 BEER

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012

ALENTEJANO WHITES

91 Fitapreta Vinhos 2009 Palpite Reserva Branco (Alentejano). Opulent and wood-

aged, this feels intense and rounded with a ripe Bur-gundian feel. The full weight of the peach and apricot fruits are given a powerful push by the toast, spice and vanilla flavors. Age this for 2–3 years. Winebridge Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

90 Adega Mayor 2010 Reserva do Comen-dador Branco (Alentejano). The white

Reserva from Adega Mayor is wood aged and it feels full on the palate. It has nutmeg, citrus and apricot fla-vors alongside a rounded texture. Age for another two years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Adega Mayor 2011 Monte Mayor Branco (Alentejano). Honey and tropical fruit aromas

open the nose, leading to the palate that is warm and ripe with pineapple and white peach fruit. The bright acidity lends a fresh and crisply fruity finish, with notes of citrus and apple. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Herdade das Servas 2011 Branco (Alen-tejano). This is a very ripe and wood-aged

wine, with vanilla flavors pairing with the smooth tex-ture of the rich pear and apricot fruits. There is a touch of pepper from the alcohol that spoils the purity of the fruit. Simões Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

86 Adega Mayor 2011 Caiado (Alentejano). This is floral and aromatic, bearing soft, ripe yel-

low fruit, attractive acidity and a soft, rounded texture. A shaft of citric acidity cuts through the palate, making

the wine feel lively and refreshing. Aidil Wines & Li-quor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Monte Alentejano Branco (Alentejano). Perfumed, with a soft,

smooth texture, this has flavors of tropical fruit, peach and a hint of lemongrass that make for a rich wine. Dio-nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

86 Herdade Grande 2011 Verdelho (Alente-jano). This is perfumed, soft, warm and ripe,

with smooth peach and mulberry flavors that are offset by a citrusy tang. It’s a fine apéritif. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Herdade Grande 2011 Colheita Seleccio-nada (Alentejano). Rich and soft, this has a

creamy smooth texture, with notes of toast, ripe apple and quince. There is a good touch of acidity to this at-tractive, ready to drink wine. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Monte Seis Reis 2010 Boa Memória Branco (Alentejano). Soft, round and gentle,

this has a creamed apple flavor. It has a full, ripe charac-ter, with just an edge of green herb and spice. Mediter-ranean Specialty Products. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

DOURO WHITES

89 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas (Douro). This old-vines

white is impressive with a serious yet fruity character. It is herbaceous, but it also shows concentration, peach

fruit and lively green acidity. Age this for the next year. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Burmester 2011 White (Douro). Delicious-ly fresh and perfumed, this has a white flower

aroma, with a clean and crisp line of citrusy acidity. There is a good tang of structure, giving the wine a fine, food-friendly shape. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Andreza Có-dega do Larinho (Douro). Made from the

Códega do Larinho grape (also called Síria), this is a re-freshingly rich wine. It’s full in the mouth yet it retains its natural freshness, with a touch of pepper, tangy acid-ity and great depth of flavor. The finish bears notes of citrus, pear and green apple. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Aveleda 2011 Aveleda Branco (Douro). A new wine in the Aveleda line-up, this is rich and

rounded. It’s aromatic, with a full mouthfeel and flavors of pear and green apple lifted by acidity. The finish is full and fruity. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

87 Churchill’s 2011 Branco (Douro). Earth aromas set the scene for this full-bodied wine.

It is rich and rounded, with the pear and peach flavors dominating the soft texture. Made from grapes sourced from vineyards high above the Douro River, this has weight, although on the finish there is freshness. Screw-cap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

Continued on Page 13

PORTUGAL

P ortugal produces an impressive variety of wine styles. From the crisp, light-as-a-feather wines of Vinho Verde in the north to the rich, generous wines of the southern Alentejo, there is something

for every palate.In this month’s reviews, three regions stand out: Vinho Verde, Douro

and Lisboa. In an age when we are craving both light and slightly sweet wines, Vinho Verde fits the bill. The most popular style is semisweet, but there is increasing interest in dry styles, as seen in many of the high scor-ing wines this month. Regional styles are emerging within the large Vin-ho Verde region: the elegant, rich Alvarinho wines of the far north and the crisp Loureiro wines of the Lima Valley in the center.

Along its southern margin, Vinho Verde butts up against the Douro Val-ley. The Douro is still on a voyage of discovery, exploring a wide range of styles, from light whites to complex reds and almost everything in between. Premium table wines are still fairly new in this region; they’ve only been produced here for less than a quarter of a century. In this relatively short

time, however, two important things have happened. Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz have been identified as the two great grapes for table wines, and the Douro—dominated for centuries by the big Port houses—has be-come a cauldron of experimentation by small, estate-based producers, re-inforcing Portugal’s claim to a place at the top table of wine.

Lisboa, whose cool-climate wines I covered in depth in the 2011 Best of Year (December 31) issue, remains Portugal’s best source for value. The reviews this month contain wine after wine marked as Best Buys, many re-tailing for under $10. Nowhere else in the world can you find such a cost-conscious concentration.

Light fruity whites, world-class reds and terrific value—all in one small, astonishingly diverse country.

As always, feel free to check out all our reviews from around the world, at buyingguide.winemag.com.

Cheers! —RogeR Voss

PORTUGAL’S VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

99 David Arthur 2009 Elevation 1147 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There

are incredible aromatics on this Cabernet. It’s powerful yet subtle (how can that be?), all about sweet, crushed summer blackberries and pure cassis liqueur. Elaborate oak, in the form of buttered toast, is perfectly in bal-ance, never overshadowing the fruit. The tannins are dry, rich and smooth, defining Napa elegance, grace and beauty. World class, dramatic and just about perfect, this gets better and better as it breathes in the glass. Drink now–2030. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $150

98 Von Strasser 2009 Estate Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).

So enormously delicious, it will be hard to keep from drinking this gorgeous Cabernet right away, and that’s just fine. It’s composed of the most intensly concentrat-ed flavors of blueberries and blackberries—dense, pure and slightly heady with a liqueur-like alcohol. The tan-nins are classic Diamond Mountain, firm and minerally, while oak plays the perfect role of the buttered toast and sweetly charred supporting character. Despite its immediate attraction, it’s best cellared for 6–8 years, at the very least. Fans of old Cabernets will still be loving it in 2029. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $70

96 Piña 2009 Ames Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). A

vital, focused Cabernet, this shows the sheer classiness of Oakville in its con-centrated blackberry and black currant fruit. It’s seemingly sweet and dry at the same time, and the tannins, which are extraordinarily thick, are fine and pure. Irresistably delicious now, this changes in the glass by the second. It suggests it wants some time in the cellar, so drink now–2021. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $85

95 Arnaldo Caprai 2007 25 Anni (Sagranti-no di Montefalco). One of the top, if not the

top, red wines from Umbria. The naturally tannic Sa-grantino grape is softened by the careful oak aging that adds layers of chocolate and spice to the grape’s aromas of black cherry, tobacco and leather. This is bold, pow-erful, masculine and velvety on the finish. Pair it with stewed or grilled meat marinated in rosemary and gar-lic. Age this in a cellar for 10 years or longer. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $100

95 Duckhorn 2009 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot (Napa Valley). This is classic Three

Palms Merlot—as excellent as anything Duckhorn has ever produced. It shows the hard tannins that always mark the winery’s Bordeaux-style red wines, but it’s lus-cious and deep in berry fruit, licorice, grilled meat and cola. It should have no difficulty negotiating the years. Give it until around 2015, but if you can’t wait, at least decant it for a few hours. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

95 Marimar Estate 2008 Cristina Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-

ley). The winery held this back an additional six months after their other 2008 Pinots were released, presumably to let it become integrated. Still, it’s quite tannic, with a sandpaper-like toughness. Despite the astringency, the massive wild-cherry, cola, mushroom and anise flavors come through. It’s a huge wine, feral and untamed—quite exquisite in its wildness. So delicious now, it’s hard to resist, but the wise collector will cellar it for 4–5 years, maybe even longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

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The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSAll tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORESRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONSEditors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent

quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEWProducts should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected].

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com


95 Trapiche 2009 Finca Jorge Miralles Sin-gle Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). This

is a real blaster of a Malbec, showing power, concentra-tion and subtleties. The bouquet is full of graham crack-er, cola, monster berry and moss notes, while the pure, driving palate deals flavors of toasty blackberry, spice, mocha and more. The lengthy but mellow finish hums like a fine-tuned machine. Drink now–2018. The Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $50

95 Walt 2010 The Corners Pinot Noir (An-derson Valley). This is a big Pinot Noir, with

an explosive intensity of cherries and raspberries that is ripe and pure. Oak, of course, is there too, in the form of buttered, smoky toast. However, the wine isn’t a mere fruit bomb. It has interesting nuances of earthy things, like mushrooms, nettles and Provençal herbs. The silky texture is an exquisite balance of acids and tannins. This new brand from Hall winery is made by their talented winemaker, Steve Leveque, and it immediately enters the California pantheon of excellent Pinot Noirs. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $60

94 Chappellet 2009 Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dark and satu-

rated in color, this has earthy and meaty aromas like bloody, rare steak and charred bone—that sort of pro-teinous spirit. The actual fruit flavor is incredibly rich and concentrated in blackberries, black currants and crisp bacon. The impression is of a sweet, delicious Cabernet that’s a touch warm in alcohol, but lush and refined. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $135

94 Duckhorn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Bottled in March 2010

and released in September 2011, this wine is still drink-ing young and fresh, with firm, rustic tannins. It’s gigan-tic in mineral-infused blackberries and black currants; the flavors are deep, intense and long-lasting into the finish. An impressive wine whose astringency requires aging, hold this until 2017, at the very least. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

94 Joseph Phelps 2010 Freestone Vine-yards Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Bone

dry, minerally and brisk in mouthwatering acidity, this has subtle yet rich flavors of tropical fruit, citrus, green apple and honey. It shows real elegance and complexity; drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

94 Piña 2009 Firehouse Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon

(Rutherford). Cabernets just don’t get much richer, riper or deeper than this single-vineyard beauty. Dry, tannic and fine in acidity, it’s a full-frontal assault of blackberries, cassis liqueur and new oak, concentrated beyond belief. The sheer magnitude demands time in the cellar. Try after 2015, and it could go far be-yond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $85

94 Piña 2009 Wolff Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Yount-

ville). This shows the richness and pow-er associated with Piña Cabernet, but is just a touch drier and more acidic than the winery’s offerings from warmer parts of Napa. With blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors that are wrapped into ample tannins, it’s a wine that seri-ously wants at least 6–8 years in the cel-lar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $85

94 Sobriquet Winery 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). While this Pinot is huge in fruit

and has a big, heavyweight mouthfeel, somehow it nev-er loses its sense of delicacy and charm. The flavors are the essence of cherries: ripe, sweet and intense. This richness is balanced by the earthiness of a wild mush-room risotto. With brilliant acidity, it’s a wonderfully re-warding wine, easily on par with the 2009, perhaps a shade better. The grapes come from the famed Sierra Madre Vineyard. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

94 Trapiche 2009 Finca Domingo F. Sarmien-to Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta).

This smells as deep as an ocean trench, with mint, cola, blackberry and toast aromas all rolled into a tight bomb that’s ready to explode. It feels balanced yet densely concentrated, with wild berry, tobacco, savory spice and even a mild saucy component. This finishes smooth, with integrated leather, herb and berry flavors. Drink any time over the next 5–6 years. The Wine Group. Ed-itors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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94 Viña Alicia 2008 Coleccion de Familia Brote Negro (Luján de Cuyo). This small-

production Malbec is superb. The bouquet smells mossy, earthy, dense and loaded with smooth berry aromas. It’s lush, deep and well balanced on the pal-ate, with powerful black-fruit flavors along with fudge, tobacco and cola notes. The feel, flavors and length are all top quality. Drink now–2018; only 230 cases were made. Southern Starz, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

93 Baldacci 2010 Sorelle Chardonnay (Carneros). This is powerful in tropical fruit,

apricot and oak flavors, but balanced with acidity and a tangy, minerally taste of stones. Rich and evocative, it appeals to the senses while retaining a complex intel-lectual charm. Drink now with lobster or crab dishes, especially a rich, buttery risotto. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $38

93 Cave de Tain 2009 Gambert de Loche (Hermitage). With its massively concentrated

blackberry fruit framed in ample new oak, this bears a bit of resemblance to some Australian Shirazes. It’s mouthfilling but supple, with nuances of Christmas spices like cinnamon, clove and anise that linger on the long finish. Drink 2014–2023. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $90

93 Duckhorn 2008 The Discussion Estate Grown (Napa Valley). This is by far the most

expensive of Duckhorn’s new releases, but it’s not the best to drink now. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s easy to imagine the winemaker singling out the most tannic and concentrated lots, but what you get is, sim-ply, a very tannic wine. There’s a gigantic core of black-berry and black currant fruit, but it’s hard to appreciate because of the astringency. The suggestion is longterm aging, but there can be no guarantees. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

93 Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 La Louvée Syr-ah (Cornas). A full-bodied, rich wine, with

tannins either supremely smoooth or just concealed un-der masses of plummy fruit. Yet despite the enormous ripeness, it’s not lacking nuance, boasting savory notes of espresso and leather. Drinkable now, but should age through 2023, at least. Palm Bay International. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $84

93 Korbin Kameron 2008 Cuvée Kristin Es-tate Blend Red Wine (Sonoma Valley).

Delicious and classy, this is based on Merlot, with the other four classic Bordeaux varieties in proper propor-tion. It flatters immediately with its wealth of blackber-ries, black cherries, cola and mocha that finish so dry and spicy, yet it has that extra complexity that makes it intellectually interesting. Drink now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

93 Marimar Estate 2008 Dobles Lías Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian

River Valley). This late-released bottling is incredibly interesting. Connoisseurs will appreciate the bone-dry minerality and acidity, the subtle creaminess from lees aging and the citrusy flavors that just begin to suggest tropical fruit. It should continue to develop in the bottle for a few more years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

93 Tenuta di Biserno 2007 Il Pino di Biser-no (Toscana). From Marchese Lodovico An-

tinori’s beautiful wine estate in Bibbona, this boasts the heritage of the great super Tuscan family to which it be-longs. The blend is Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and the overall effect is simply gorgeous. Richness, generosity and persistence characterize the mouthfeel, and the bouquet is driven by aromas of red cherry, chocolate and spice. Drink af-ter 2015. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

93 Trapiche 2009 Finca Suarez Lastra Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). Gorgeous

balsam wood and graphite aromas blend seamlessly with ripe berry and black coffee scents. It feels lively yet cushioned, tasting like a wicked brew of maple, tobacco, berry pie and fine wood shavings. This is smooth, long and comfortable on the tobacco- and resin-flavored fin-ish. Drink now–2018. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $50


93 Walt 2010 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Is it just a simple, delicious drink-

me-now Pinot? Or is it actually complex and worthy of pairing with the best foods? It’s both. Front-loaded with raspberry purée, smoked butter and oak flavors, it has subtle layers of mushroom and dried pine that lift it into an ethereal place. Who cares if it will age? It’s drop-dead gorgeous now. Char-broiled salmon could be your best pairing. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Pocai Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley).

The Pocai Vineyard is a very interesting one, growing Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and the wines are always worth looking into. This Cabernet Franc, at four years of age, is mellowing, with the tannins turning gentle and the flavors becoming delicious and dramatic. Particularly bright in red cherries, it’s a beautiful wine for drinking over the next year or two. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Cosa Obra 2011 Hummingbird Hill Vine-yard Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast).

This is potent in lime, sweet lemon, Asian pear and tropical fruit flavors, brightened with zesty acidity and enriched with notes of mineral and vanilla. Beautiful to drink, it will pair with everything from Thai food to risotto. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

92 Enrique Foster 2006 Limited Edition Mal-bec (Luján de Cuyo). This is cool, earthy and

tight on the nose. Then it opens and blooms, with classy roasted notes that set the stage for a smooth-rolling pal-ate with bold blackberry, herb and chocolate flavors. By the time it finishes, complex bitter-chocolate and toast notes have taken over. This is primed and ready to drink. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

92 Houdini 2010 Dean Block Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Tremendous flavors of honey,

pear and orange jam are enriched with an oaky vanil-la note. It’s wonderfully creamy and spicy, and while it seemingly tastes as sweet as a pastry, the finish is dry. Only 425 cases were produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

92 Korbin Kameron 2007 Estate Grown Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). A beau-

tiful Cabernet, this has all the hallmarks of a fine wine. It’s dry, rich in tannins and elegant, with long, deep fla-vors of blackberries, currants and dark chocolate. It’s al-ready throwing some sediment, so give it a careful de-cant. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

92 MacPhail 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This is forward and

sweet in raspberry and cherry jams. However, it’s not a simple fruit bomb. With a mushroomy, gamy earthiness and refined tannins, it shows true complexity and struc-ture. Not an ager, but it will be beautiful over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

92 Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Crozes-Her-mitage. This full-bodied, creamy Crozes-Her-

mitage far outpaces expectations for the appellation, combining cherry-berry fruit with cracked pepper, mo-cha and licorice. Then it finishes long, anchored by a marriage of fruit and spice. It’s ready to drink now, but should evolve positively through at least 2017. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $36

92 Migration 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). With a creamy mouthfeel and

ripe flavors of tangerines, tropical fruits, honey and sweet oak, this is a flashy effort. It will appeal to fans of the variety, and rightfully so, delivering a dry complexity that lifts it way above the average. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

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92 Pessagno 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).

Rich doesn’t begin to describe the layers of flavor and texture. This wine is massive, with notes of tropical fruit and apricot, with a slightly botrytized character that Sleepy Hollow Chardonnays often display. The oak is lavish and buttery, but perfectly matched to the wine’s volume. It also has classic Monterey acidity—as pert as a squeeze of lime. Delicious, full bodied and exotic, it defines its vineyard and appellation. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

92 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Roccato (Tos-cana). Roccato is a blend of 50% Sangiovese

and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon that’s packed with aromas of blackberry, leather, tobacco and chocolate. It’s velvety and rich, with a delicious touch of cherry and cinnamon on the long finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

92 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Ser Gioveto (To-scana). A cheerful super Tuscan blend of San-

giovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this shows a very elegant and sophisticated side. It is modern, plump and extracted, but it also delivers fine aromas of cherry, vanilla, spice and pipe tobacco. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

92 Von Holt 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s lots of

mouthwatering acidity in this bone-dry Pinot Noir, with an ample supply of ripe fruit in the form of raspber-ries and cherries. There’s also something wonderfully earthy, like roasted mushrooms splashed with balsamic and tamari sauce. The cool 2010 vintage was kind to Bacigalupi Vineyard, which can produce overripe wines in hot years. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $39

92 Walt 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). High alcohol gives this Pinot some heat,

but it also lends incredible richness and ripeness to the flavors, which range from raspberry jam and cherry pie filling to buttered toast, creamy vanilla and exotic spice. A delicious and heady offering from Napa Cabernet specialist Hall winery. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $60

92 White Oak 2010 Estate Grown Chardon-nay (Russian River Valley). This is White

Oak’s best Chardonnay in years. The wine benefited from the chilly vintage, expressing citrus and tropical fruit flavors while preserving its vital acidity. It shows real elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

91 Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Petit Ver-dot (St. Helena). This is rich and dramatic in

blackberries and black currants, with an olive note and a lovely coating of cedar. Dry and tannic, it has plenty of class and elegance. Hard to see if this is a longterm ager, but it’s fine now and over the next four years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

91 Duckhorn 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). A lovely Merlot, this is pure, vibrant and elegant.

It has classic cherry, red-currant and cedar flavors, and while there’s a sweetness at the core, the finish is thor-oughly dry. Wonderful to drink now with steak or lamb. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $52

91 Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Chardonnay (Carneros). What this Chardonnay lacks in

immediate fruity richness, it more than makes up for in austere, complex minerality. The flavors veer towards lemon and lime, with hints of tropical fruit and the sweet smokiness of barrel aging. The acidity is vital and rich. It’s a wine that develops complexity as it warms and opens up in the glass. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $18


91 Korbin Kameron 2008 Estate Grown Mer-lot (Sonoma Valley). Huge, flashy and dra-

matic, this shows brilliantly ripened fruit and an exqui-site texture. Flavor wise, it tastes like pure pie filling seasoned with baking spices. But there’s nothing sweet in the finish. Instead, the wine is thoroughly and prop-erly dry, as Merlot should be. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

91 MacPhail 2010 Wightman House Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This

explodes with ripe raspberry, strawberry and cherry fla-vors, while the heat from the alcohol gives it the headi-ness of a liqueur. It’s definitely not a subtle wine, but one to enjoy now with grilled tuna, lamb or wild mush-room risotto. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $55

91 Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vine-yard Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian Riv-

er Valley). This is one of the driest wines Marimar Estate ever has produced—in a good sense. The cool vintage has made the Chardonnay minerally and sleek, while Albariño brings its usual lemony crispness. The result is a versatile, stylishly elegant wine. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $28

91 Piccini 2007 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana). A generous blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and

Cabernet, this is round and velvety, delivering impres-sive aromatic intensity in the form of black cherry, ripe raspberry, spice, tobacco and dried rosemary. The finish is soft and long. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22

91 Torres 2008 Mas La Plana Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). One of

Spain’s most character-packed wines, this vintage of Mas La Plana deals bacon, berry and earthy aromas in front of a weighty, fairly tannic palate. Becoming richer and riper as it unfolds, this is full of prune, plum and earthy stewed-berry flavors. It gets better and shows more complexity with air. Drink now–2018. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $75

90 Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Mon-tefalco Rosso. The entire

line-up from Arnaldo Caprai has been very successful this year. This blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot de-livers a smooth mouthfeel and ripe fruit flavors, with background tones of black licorice and moist pipe tobacco. A spot of crisp acidity appears on the finish. Fo-lio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $23

90 Forefathers 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley).

Here’s a Cab that needs some time in the cellar. It’s rich in blackberries and cherries, with the dried herb earthi-ness often found in Alexander Valley Cabernets. Give it five years or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

90 Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend Red Blend (Napa County-Sonoma Coun-

ty-San Joaquin County). Made from a bunch of grape varieties, including Zinfandel and Cabernet Sau-vignon, this is a really nice wine, especially for the price. It’s dry, fruity and robust, with rich, earthy flavors of blackberries and spices. Easy to find, with 22,100 cases produced. From E&J Gallo. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Il Pollenza 2007 Red (Marche). This blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon

and Cabernet Franc opens with jammy, almost impene-trable aromas of blackberry, maraschino cherry, pipe to-bacco and dark chocolate. “Huge” is the operative word. Southern Wine and Spirits. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $57

WineMag.com | 9

90 Kirkland Signature 2010 Cuvée de Nalys (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied and

plush in texture, with extremely supple tannins along-side flavors of raspberry, plum and clove. The juicy beam of fresh fruit lingers nicely on the finish. Drink now–2018. DC Flynt MW Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 MacPhail 2010 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). As appealing as a dessert

pastry, this has raspberry and cherry fruit, with roast-ed almond, sweet vanilla and buttered toast flavors. Not particularly complex, but it scores high on the delicious scale. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $49

90 MacPhail 2010 Toulouse Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Anderson Valley). This is so rich

and saturated you can taste the sunshine in every sip. It bursts across the palate with bright, jammy raspber-ry and cherry flavors. It may not have great subtlety or ageworthiness, but it excels for its sheer deliciousness. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $49

90 Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva di Fizzano (Chianti Classico). With its inky

concentration, rich extraction and ripe aromas of black-berry pie and cherry preserves, fine craftsmanship is evident. Soft veins of spice and chocolate weave ele-gantly throughout. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Trig Point 2010 Diamond Dust Vineyard Merlot (Alexander Valley). A fine Merlot,

softly lush and rich in cherries and mocha, wrapped into firm tannins. An earthy herb note grounds it, saving it from being simply a fruit bomb. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

90 Trig Point 2009 Diamond Dust Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley).

A beautiful Cabernet, this is soft, dry and delicious. It really showcases the Alexander Valley in its classic pro-file of herb-infused blackberry fruit and gentle tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

88 Freixenet NV Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut (Cava). This is slightly smoky, toasty and yeasty

up front, with a touch of matchstick to the nose. Rich, sweet tasting and candied on the palate, it has baking spice, apple and honeydew flavors. It’s tasty through-out and just elevated enough in mouthfeel to earn a few complexity points. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

88 Principe Pallavicini 2011 Poggio Verde (Frascati Superiore). A blend of Malvasia,

Greco and Grechetto, this fresh white delivers zesty acidity and lively notes of bitter almond, white flower, citrus and crushed mineral. It would pair beautifully with a heaping plate of spaghetti con le vongole. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Trapiche 2010 Broquel Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Mendoza). Cassis, sugar beet, leather

and mild herbal aromas make this Cabernet appealing on the nose. It feels slightly syrupy and resiny, but with its core acidity the palate remains in good shape. Fla-vors of plum and cassis have a strong vanilla and oak resin accent, while the finish is tannic, roasted and ro-bust. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15


87 Freakshow 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Michael David’s new Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon brand has the winery’s signature toasted oak and coconut-kissed tannins. But it’s interestingly tamed, bearing bursts of black cherry and blackberry that effortlessly hit your palate in between quiet gusts of vanilla spice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Il Pollenza 2011 Brianello (Marche). Pale gold in color, this pretty blend of Sauvignon

Blanc and Trebbiano shows mineral notes and aromas of hay, light spice and stone fruit. Southern Wine and Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

SPIRITS

95 Killepitsch (Germany; Vi-sion Wine & Spirits, Secau-

cus, NJ). The special-edition bottle is modern and trippy, purple with pink let-tering and a cartoony Keith Haring-esque design. But the recipe for this tra-ditional herbal liqueur dates back to the mid 1800s—“a taste of old Dusseldorf.” Old or new, it’s complex and delicious, with a Cognac-like dried-fruit and spice base—raisins, dates, cherries, figs, cin-namon, sarsaparilla and black pepper all can be detected. Would make a dyna-mite digestif, especially paired with a fruity dessert. abv: 42% Price: $25

SPIRITS

94 Patrón XO Café Dark Cocoa (Mexico; The

Patron Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV). This addictive new-comer from Tequila maker Patron combines coffee, chocolate and sil-ver Tequila. It looks and smells like a dead ringer for your morning espresso. But on the palate, sweet, almost nutty agave notes emerge,

fading into a creamy, caramel milk-chocolate profile, with just a dusting of espresso on the finish. This liqueur lends itself to mixing with coffee or crafting espresso martini cocktails, yet it’s polished enough to sip straight up over ice.abv: 30% Price: $25

92 Schwartzhog Kräuter Li-queur (Germany; The Oth-

er Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL). Look for a deep brick-red color and pleasing orange and dried-fruit scents. Light and mouthwatering, finishing with an herbal lilt. Nice postprandial sipper. abv: 36.7% Price: $15

91 Bottega Limoncino (Italy; Palm Bay International,

Port Washington, NY). Made with Sicilian lemons and grappa, this “lim-oncino” has a lingering, bright lemon-candy flavor cut by a welcome fillip of brisk alcohol, which softens the sweet-ness, and a hint of lemongrass. Al-though the brand recommends using the spirit for lemon drop cocktails, it would be equally at home in a drink with gin or infused with botanicals like rosemary. abv: 30% Price: $24

SPIRITS

91 Sorel Liqueur (USA; Jack from Brooklyn, Brooklyn,

NY). This new spirit based on a tradi-tional Caribbean recipe, features a deep plum color thanks to macerated hibiscus and a spicy clove aroma that seems to leap out of the glass. Although it can be used to add pretty color to gin or vodka cocktails, or to spice up a warm toddy, it’s addictively sippable straight up, with a mild alcohol level that won’t leave you reeling. abv: 15% Price: $28

89 Bottega Gianduia (Italy; Palm Bay International,

Port Washington, NY). The inno-cent-looking light brown hue evokes chocolate milk. But the aroma warns of decadence, with a luscious candy-bar aroma, nuts and rich milk chocolate. In the mouth, it melts into a thick and vel-vety feel, with a boozy, milky finish. It’s like sipping liquified chocolate laced with hazelnut liqueur. abv: 17% Price: $25

89 Pisa Liqueur (Italy; Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus,

NJ). The marzipan aroma is huge, wafting off the glass when it is still an arm’s length away. The big, sticky-sweet almond and hazelnut flavor is overwhelming at first, but pulls back quickly, leaving just a delicate whisper of nuts and orange on the finish. Be-yond the glass, this would be a great addition to baked goods or spooned over fruit or ice cream. abv: 24% Price: $25

WineMag.com | 11

SPIRITS

88 Bottega Sambuca (Italy; Palm Bay International,

Port Washington, NY). Made from the essential oils from star-anise seeds, this clear and bright digestif smells and tastes like Good & Plenty licorice can-dies. Viscous and tongue coating. Stir into coffee or sip straight up, well chilled. abv: 40% Price: $24

BEER

89 Blue Moon Vintage Blonde Ale Reserve Collection 2011 (American Blonde Ale;

Blue Moon Brewing Company, CO). This vinous beer brewed with Chardonnay grape juice is a nice crossover beer for wine lovers. It pours a clear, light gold color with a frothy but fleeting white head, and shows good carbonation. The bouquet is fruit forward, brimming with notes of lemon and ripe white grapes. Earthy spice and toasted grain accents in the back-ground increase in intensity on the palate alongside ripe notes of peach and apple. The finish is clean, with just a hint of honeyed sweetness on the back. abv: 8.5% Price: $10/750 ml

BEST BUYS

92 DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Touriga Na-cional (Lisboa). The combination of black-

berry fruit and firm, dark tannins has created a complex, impressive wine. This has plenty of fruit, but the main components at this stage are its weight and structure. It has considerable aging potential; keep for 3–4 years. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

BEST BUYS

91 Aveleda 2010 Follies Fonte Nossa Sen-hora da Vandoma Touriga Nacional-

Cabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). Concentrated and powerful, this is a rich and intense black-fruited wine. Notes of spice, herb and dark chocolate mingle with the flavor of black plum juice and firm, dry tannins. The result is a wine that needs several more years to age. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

91 DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Alicante Bouschet (Lisboa). This is deeply colored

and rich, showing both the juicy fruit character of Ali-cante Bouschet and a more serious, concentrated ele-ment. It’s solid and densely tannic, with wood flavors layered on its black plum fruit. This is worth aging for another two years. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

90 Aveleda 2010 Follies Casa da Aguieira Touriga Nacional (Beiras). Wood laden, this

is a spice- and fruit-flavored wine. It’s complex, dense and packed with dusty tannins. Still young, although al-ready finely balanced, its structure is powerful and the wine is dark, full and rich. Age for 2–3 years. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

BEST BUYS

89 Aveleda 2011 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho Verde). From Aveleda’s home estate, this is a

lively wine with crisp fruit. Bone dry, the palate shows a more serious, intensely citric element, showing bright acidity on the finish. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $9

89 Bourgeois Family 2009 Elicio Grenache-Merlot (Vin de Pays de la Méditerranée).

It’s an unusual blend, but it works, creating a round, supple wine for immediate enjoyment. Hints of or-ange peel, coriander and green olive bring complexity to notes of plum and cherry, while the finish turns dark and espresso-like. Bourgeois Family Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

88 Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado (Cava). This is always a really good buy among rosé spar-

klers and a personal favorite in the Best Buy category. It opens with red fruit, vanilla and yeasty aromas, but it’s racy, crisp and refined in the mouth, with nectar-ine, peach and controlled citrus flavors. It’s dry, spicy and fairly smooth on the finish. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12


BEST BUYS

88 Mas Fi NV Brut (Cava). Clean, stylish and easy to like, this has apple and green herb aro-

mas. It shows a good weight and mouthfeel, with pa-paya, thyme and baked apple flavors. Medium long and smooth on the finish, this is a commendable value-priced bubbly. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $11

88 Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva (Cava). This is as crisp and dry as a whispy reed, with a

mild grassy note on the nose. It feels fresh and focused, with lime, peach and apple flavors. Fruity, fresh and easy to like from start to finish, this is what a Best Buy should be. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

88 Wente 2010 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo Seco). Off-dry to sweet, this is firmed up with

crisp acidity. The citrus, honeysuckle and vanilla fla-vors are easy to like, with a flowery, sweet finish. This delightful Riesling calls to mind gardens on summer evenings. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

BEST BUYS

87 Marqués de Cáceres 2011 White (Rioja). Cheers to one of Rioja’s most basic yet consis-

tent white wines. Minerally and crystalline on the nose, with dusty apple, melon and stony aromas, this Viura is fresh, dry and average in weight. It tastes of papaya and apple, finishing dry and clean. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

86 El Coto 2011 White (Rioja). This is grassy and pungent up front, with citrus, nectarine and

apple aromas. It feels crisp and tangy, with chalky grip and flavors of citrus and green apple. Snappy and long on the finish, this is a Sauvignon Blanc-styled Viura. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $11

86 L. Tramier et Fils NV Bourricot Rosé (Vin de France). Fragrant and fruity, this is an at-

tractive, full rosé. It has just the right amount of red cur-rant acidity to go with the ripe strawberry note. Ready to drink. Luxe Vintages. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

BEST BUYS

86 McManis 2011 Chardonnay (River Junc-tion). Using grapes sourced from a cool subap-

pellation of the Lodi area, this is a fine, ripe wine that finishes sweetly on a note of vanilla. Its acidity is in bal-ance, making this a wine that will easily please a crowd. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Merlot (Califor-nia). If this Merlot had greater flavor intensity,

it would be spectacular. It’s a very nice photocopy of a great Merlot, meaning that the berry and spice fruit is soft in focus but pleasurable. A great value—dry and classy in its own way. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8

85 Cable Car 2010 Chardonnay (Lodi). An easygoing, crisp and well-priced Chardonnay,

this has swirls of smooth apple and pear. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 13

BEST BUYS

85 House Band NV Chardon-nay (California). Sold in in-

dividual 375-ml pouches or 4-packs, this is a dry, clean wine with lots of acidity that brightens the creamy apri-cot, orange and peach flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $5/375 ml

85 Piccini 2011 Chianti. Fresh and simple, this iconic Chianti from Piccini boils the Tuscan red

wine experience down to its easiest and most genuine state. This is a crisp, lean wine with a ruby color and bright berry aromas. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Pinot Noir (Men-doza). Earthy and warm on the nose, this has

compost and leafy raspberry aromas. It shows good feel and balance, with light plum, cherry and citrus-infused tea flavors. The finish is good and solid, concluding with a tobacco note. The Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

BEST BUYS

84 J. Garcia Carrion 2009 Antaño Tempra-nillo (Rioja). This is snappy all the way, if a

touch raw and citric on the palate. Freshness is a virtue on this affordable Rioja, while red plum, raspberry and milk chocolate notes carry the flavor profile. Drink now. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $6

CORRECTIONS

On page 24 of the August issue, we incorrectly stated that Dana Farner was a master sommelier. Farner has only passed the tasting portion of the exam.

On page 92 of the August issue, we incorrectly listed Erin Smith as sommelier of Restaurant August. Erin White is the sommelier.

On page 20 of the September issue, we incorrectly at-tributed a quote to Chef Eiji Ichimura. It should have referenced Chef Isao Yamada.

On page 50 of the September isuse, we incorrectly identified Roman Coppola as Philippe Bascaules.

NEXT MONTHHERE’S WHAT’S COMING UP IN WINE

ENTHUSIAST'S NOVEMBER MAGAZINE:

Top 100 Best Buys of 2012Of the thousands of wines tasted this year, the editors of Wine Enthusiast reveal their picks of the top Best Buys.

A Driving Tour of PiedmontWith its beautiful scenery, fabulous wines and the

region’s famous white truffles, who wouldn’t want to take a road trip through this gourmand’s paradise?

Pairing Cheese & WineWhen the two complex worlds of cheese and wine collide, it’s enough to exasperate any gourmet No

longer, thanks to this easy pairing guide.

87 Sogevinus 2011 Curva (Douro). This is an apple-crisp wine that’s laced with a zing of lem-

on zest. Taut and nervy, this is straight as an arrow in terms of its fresh acidity. It’s lively, bright and ready to drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Quinta do Portal 2011 Portal Colheita Branco (Douro). Spicy and perfumed, this

has a rich yellow-fruit flavor that’s contrasted with a crisp pink-grapefruit edge. It’s rounded and smooth, with a taut, herbal burst on the finish. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

85 Barros 2011 White (Douro). Very aromat-ic, this has flavors of lychee and lemon. It has a

spicy feel to it, giving it a soft, rounded texture. Ready to drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

LISBOA WHITES

90 DFJ Vinhos 2011 DFJ White (Lis-boa). Round and smooth, this has a weighty,

full-bodied structure, with the Alvarinho adding a more crisp character. Pear and melon fruits are balanced by citrusy acidity. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

88 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Grand’Arte Alvarinho (Lisboa). For an Alvarinho this is surprisingly

herbaceous, bearing a green cut-grass aroma and lemon and pink grapefruit flavors. As the wine fills out over the next year, it will probably show more of the grape’s creamed apple and pear flavors. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

88 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Grand’Arte Arinto (Lis-boa). Swathes of ripe fruit surface on this wine,

with lime and peach flavors followed by a more miner-ally texture. It’s a wine to drink now or age over the next year. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

87 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Pancas Branco (Lisboa). This is a piercingly fresh

wine from vines close to the Atlantic Ocean. The citrusy acidity is balanced by riper yellow fruit and pineapple. Age for a few months, but it can also be consumed now. Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

86 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Paxis Branco Arinto (Lisboa). Smooth and oily in texture, this is

round and full of pear juice flavor. There is just a touch of green legume, adding piquancy to this ripe wine. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $8

85 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Branco (Lisboa). This is rich and smooth, with round-

ed and ripe fruit. Red apple, banana and lime flavors work together to yield a wine that’s ready to drink. Dio-nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8


85 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Coreto Branco (Lisboa). This is an attractively balanced apple- and pear-

flavored wine. It is crisp, fruity and nicely creamy, with some bright acidity on the finish Drink now or age for a year. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $6

85 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Portada Winemaker’s Selection White (Lisboa). This has soft, ripe

fruit, with notes of lime and orange zest fitting easily with the ripe peach and melon flavors. This is warm, rounded and ready to drink. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $7

84 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Point West (Lisboa). A rounded wine, this gives pleasure with its pear

and ripe apple flavors. Lightly touched with acidity, this has a soft finish. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

84 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Segada Branco (Lis-boa). This is fruity, with pear and baked ap-

ple flavors that lend a rich, spicy character. It has some weight along with an attractive touch of acidity. Dio-nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $8

84 Quinta do Gradil NV Filigrana (Lisboa). A fresh prickle gives this crisp, Vinho Verde loo-

kalike its lively lift. Semi-sweet and fragrant, this has acidity and flavors of green apple and citrus. Grape Mo-ments. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $NA

83 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Storks Landing White (Lisboa). Very soft and easy going, this has

rounded peach and apple flavors. The acidity is light, hinting at citrus. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

VINHO VERDE

90 Adega de Monção 2010 Deu la Deu Al-varinho (Vinho Verde). Monção is the home

of Portuguese Alvarinho. Ripe and opulent, this is full of yellow fruit, tangy citrus and intense acidity. After an extra year of aging, this finely balanced and impressive wine is ready to drink. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Nostalgia Al-varinho (Vinho Verde). This is a rich, full-

bodied and impressive wine, with intense and complex flavors of apple and green fruit. The acidity meshes with the ripe fruit. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

89 Adega de Monção 2011 Muralhas de Monção (Vinho Verde). With a high pro-

portion of Alvarinho in the blend, this is round, with a creamed apple flavor. It is ripe, full and delicious now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Aveleda 2011 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho Verde). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.

abv: 11.5% Price: $9

89 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Toucas (Vin-ho Verde). This is very aromatic, with live-

ly acidity, a soft and creamy texture, and a rounded yellow-fruit flavor that’s balanced by a citrus note. It is elegant, rich and worth aging for another year. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

88 Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Avesso (Vinho Verde). Avesso, a rare varietal in the Vinho

Verde region, has produced a smooth and ripe wine. It has flavors of green olive, pear and a tight citrus char-acter. There’s fine depth of flavor on this delicious wine. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16

88 Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Alvarinho (Vin-ho Verde). Floral and aromatic, this has a hint

of prickle to go with the citrus, green apple and white peach flavors. There is an attractive mineral character—the wine dancing and fragrant. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

87 Vera 2011 Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Crisp and green, this has a ripe, rounded apple flavor

that lends the wine richness. There is a yeasty charac-ter to go with the fruitiness, while the refreshing acid-ity lasts through the finish. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Adega de Monção 2011 Fuzelo (Vinho Verde). Lightly smooth and crisp, this is domi-

nated by a citrus flavor and bright acidity. It’s a typical, easy-drinking wine that’s ready to consume now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

86 Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Loureiro (Vinho Verde). This manages to be rounded and crisp

at the same time, giving an intense citrus flavor and a soft texture, with just a touch of honey on the finish. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $13

86 Vera 2011 Vinho Verde. This is delightful and lightly sweet, bubbling in the mouth with

notes of citrus, mandarin orange and some richer peach and white fruit flavors. The acidity gives the wine a lively lift. Screwcap. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

85 Aveleda 2011 Aveleda (Vinho Verde). There is a healthy pop as you open this light-

ly sparkling, just off-dry Vinho Verde. It has a citrusy lemon-sherbet tang of acidity, combining with a light dancing touch. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $NA

85 Caves Aliança 2011 Aliança (Vinho Verde). Lightly sweet, this is freshened with a

lemon zest flavor and a bright prickle on the palate. It’s crisp, fresh and ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 10.5% Price: $NA

85 Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Grande Escolha (Vinho Verde). This is a pleasant, fruity Vinho

Verde with the right fresh lemon flavor. There is a light prickle to add to the crisp character. P.R. Grisley Com-pany. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

84 Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Branco (Vin-ho Verde). Light and crisp, this offers a subtle

prickle on the palate. The lively apple and grapefruit fla-vors are right up front along with a light sweetness. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $NA

84 Quinta do Portal 2011 Trevo (Vinho Verde). This is a lively, off-dry wine with in-

tense acidity to accompany its crisp apple and citrus fla-vors. Very fruity, it’s ready to drink now. Screwcap. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 10.5% Price: $9

84 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Clemens Reserva (Vinho Verde). Crisp and herba-

ceous, this is a green-fruited wine that’s light on the pal-ate, offering delightful refreshing acidity. This is very fruity and ready to drink. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $NA

84 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Salsus (Vin-ho Verde). The light prickle adds to the natu-

ral freshness of this lemon-sherbet-flavored wine. Very crisp and light in the mouth, this dances on the palate with just a touch of sweetness. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —R.V. abv: 9.5% Price: $NA

OTHER WHITE WINES

91 Companhia das Quintas 2010 Morgado de Santa Catherina Reserva (Bucelas).

Wood-aged, this is a ripe-textured wine that has rich flavors of yellow and white fruits and toast. It has con-centrated, intense fruit that bursts in the mouth. Deli-cious and impressive, this could be aged for another two years. Importo LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90 Aveleda 2011 Follies Janela Manuelina (Minho). This blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro

is both herbaceous and ripe. The tang of the texture manages to bring out the grapefruit flavor while allow-ing space for the underlying white peach note. The fin-ish is rich, and the wine will age for another year. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

89 Caves Aliança 2011 Quinta da Garrida Reserva Branco (Dão). Rich and ripe, this

has pear, peach and quince fruits that are rounded out by wood aging. It has a floral character that balances the richness. It will age for another two years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Prova Ré-gia Premium Arinto (Bucelas). Delicious,

rich and fruity, this is full of peach and citrus fruits that add lift to the wine’s ripeness. It’s a great apéritif and would also pair well with seafood. Importo LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Aveleda 2011 Alvarinho (Minho). Bringing out the herbaceous side of Alvarinho, this is a

freshly crisp wine. It has grapefruit and green apple fla-vors, with the acidity brightening the texture on the fin-ish. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Falua 2011 Conde de Vimioso Colhei-ta Seleccionada (Tejo). This is soft, more

creamy than crisp, with an attractive floral character that details the soft pear flavor. Not for aging, so drink this over the next year. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

86 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Samora Bran-co (Tejo). Attractive and herbaceous, this has

an apple flavor that’s laced with a citrus note. Fresh and crisp, it’s fruity, forward and can be consumed now. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Caves Aliança 2011 Galeria Bical (Bair-rada). Soft and gentle, this has pear and ripe

apple flavors, with a light touch of creamy acidity. It’s a food-friendly wine—round and ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Dona Helena Branco (Setubal). Light and fragrant, this has

pear and lemon flavors. It’s ripe, soft and ready to drink. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

SPARKLING WINE

85 Aveleda NV Casal Garcia (Vinho Espumante). A medium-sweet sparkling

wine, this bursts with a ripe apple flavor on the pal-ate. The wine is crisp, deliciously clean and refreshing. Think of it like Moscato. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

ROSÉS

85 Adega de Monção 2011 Muralhas de Monção Rosé (Vinho Verde). There is a

light prickle to this freshly crisp and dry rosé. It bursts with raspberry and red currant flavors, tangy acidity and a lively finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $NA

85 Churchill’s 2011 Rosé (Douro). Made from Touriga Nacional, this is a deliciously light, crisp

and clean strawberry-flavored wine. It has lively acidity and a real summer feel. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

85 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Rosé (Lisboa). Smooth and rounded, this is a food-

friendly rosé. It has a ripe strawberry flavor, with a touch of lime juice and a soft, full finish. Just a touch of tan-nin gives extra character. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

85 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Portada Winemaker’s Selection Rosé (Lisboa). Soft and ripe, a

flavor of crushed strawberries leads this wine in a fruity direction. It has notes of vanilla and spice, with attrac-tive balancing acidity. This is a food-friendly rosé. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $7

85 Falua 2011 Conde de Vimioso Colhei-ta Seleccionada Rosé (Tejo). Bright and

fruity, with a tannic edge, this is a blend of Touriga Na-cional and Syrah. This is food friendly, with a rich red-fruit flavor that’s cut with a caramel note and strawberry acidity. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

85 Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Padeiro Rosé (Vinho Verde). Very fruity and smooth,

this has a ripe strawberry flavor and balancing acid-ity. It shows some richness while remaining crisp and fragrant. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

85 Quinta do Portal 2011 Colheita Rosé (Douro). This is rich and dry yet also fruity.

Perfumed in character, it is full, soft and smooth, allow-ing the acidity a place on the finish. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

85 Vera 2011 Rosé (Vinho Verde). This is a seemingly weet rosé, with a good balance be-

tween its strawberry fruit and acidity. The wine is slight-ly sparkling and crisp, making it a delicious apéritif. Screwcap. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

84 Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Rosé (Vinho Verde). Crisp and intensely acidic, this has a

touch of tannin that adds structure. It has red apple fruit, giving roundness and some sweetness on the fin-ish. Screwcap, FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 10.5% Price: $NA

84 Caves Aliança 2011 Vista Rosé (Terras da Beira). Ripe and soft, this is made from

Tinta Roriz. It is rich and full bodied, with its rounded strawberry fruit leaving just enough room on the palate for crispness. Screwcap. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

84 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Monte Alentejano Rosé (Alentejano). Smooth, rounded and dry, this

has plum and strawberry flavors. Full in the mouth and touched by spice, this is a rosé for food. Dionysos Im-ports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8

84 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Pink Elephant Rosé (Lisboa). Fruity and off-dry, this has light

touches of sweet strawberry and vanilla to go with the orange zest acidity. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $8

84 Parras Vinhos NV Filigrana Rosé (Lis-boa). With an attractive fresh prickle on the

palate, this is a crisp wine with a red fruit flavor, acidity and a soft, sweet finish. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $NA

84 Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Espadeiro Rosé (Vinho Verde). This is a fresh and fragrant

rosé from the Vinho Verde region. It has light acidity and a red fruit flavor. The lightest prickle gives just that extra lift. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $13

84 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Azul Portugal Rosé (Setubal). Ripe and fruity, this bears a

red berry flavor and a dry structure. It has weight, rich-ness and a smooth finish. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Samora Rosé (Tejo). This is a floral, aromatic and dry rosé,

full of red currant fruit and refreshing acidity. It’s a great apéritif wine. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

83 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Coreto Rosé (Lisboa). This is a rounded, full-bodied rosé that also has

a herbal element. It has a wild strawberry flavor, with light acidity and sweetness. Screwcap. Dionysos Im-ports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $6

83 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Dona Helena Rosé (Setubal). Soft, with strawberry flavors

and only light acidity, this has a caramel burst that sur-faces on the finish. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

ALENTEJANO REDS

92 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Herdade da Farizoa Grand Escolha (Alentejano).

A dark-colored, wood-aged wine, this is serious and power ful. It has tannic weight along with a black berry flavor, and a smooth tar and herb layer that’s all bal-anced by the acidity. The wood still needs another year to fully integrate; age for another 2–3 years. Importo LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $55

92 Monte Seis Reis 2007 Reserva (Alente-jano). The smooth oak aging is a major element

in the success of this elegant wine. While it has rich, pol-ished black fruits and a strong tannic core, it also has a licorice character. It is now maturing, ready to drink as a serious, complex wine. Mediterranean Specialty Prod-ucts. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Adega Mayor 2008 Pai Chão Garrafeira (Alentejano). The top red from Adega Mayor,

this is serious and impressive. Its firm, dry and dusty

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tannins are balanced by an intense blackberry flavor and contrasted with licorice and coffee notes. As it ages, it will become more intense and elegant. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Herdade da Farizoa Reserva (Alentejano). Densely

tannic, this is also full of sweet berry fruits. Powerful and superripe, its fruit is beginning to integrate into the big, smoky, chocolaty structure. The finish shows both toast and juicy fruit notes. Keep for 3–4 years. Importo LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

90 Herdade Grande 2008 Reserva (Alente-jano). Solid and powerful, this has its tannins

wound around flavors of dark plum skin and blackberry. It’s concentrated and chunky, with bitter chocolate and spice notes added to the mix. Age for 2–3 years. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

89 Herdade das Servas 2008 Touriga Na-cional (Alentejano). While the aromas are

earthy, with a farmyard character, the finely textured palate is fruitier. The tannins give a firm, structured base for the red currant flavor. Solid and rich, this is now maturing, but it retains its youthful acidity. Simões Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

88 Adega Mayor 2010 Monte Mayor (Alente-jano). The very soft, juicy red fruit characteriz-

es this easy, ripe wine. It has a light tannic core, with its dryness kept well in check by the exuberant, juicy fruit. Young and fruity, it is ready for aging over the next two years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 Adega Mayor 2007 Reserva do Comen-dador (Alentejano). This is ripe, almost too

ripe, with its broad red fruits and soft tannins. The tex-ture is smooth, with a burst of acidity. It’s ready to drink now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Herdade das Servas 2010 Monte das Servas (Alentejano). Very fruity, this is full

of red fruits, soft tannins and juicy acidity. The wine is soft, forward and immediately appealing due to its acid-ity and aromatic finish. Simões Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 Herdade Grande 2010 Red (Alentejano). Full bodied and rich, this has a well-balanced

structure, with a dry, tannic core. It’s powerful and packed with a juicy black-fruit flavor. This can be aged for at least two years. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $17

88 José Maria da Fonseca 2010 José de Sousa (Alentejano). This is an earthy wine

that packs ripe fruit with structure and acidity. There is a juicy character from the red berry flavor that is given shape by the underlying tannins. Palm Bay Internation-al. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Monte Seis Reis 2009 Private Selection (Alentejano). This is very ripe, rounded and

rich, with its black fruit dominating the tarry, tannic character. Chocolate and mint notes surface from the wood aging. With its dark toast element, this could age another two years. Mediterranean Specialty Products. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Monte Seis Reis 2008 Syrah (Alenteja-no). This is big and powerful, soft and rounded,

with the tannins buried in the foward black-fruit flavor. It’s almost too dense for its own good, a blockbuster that has ripe fruit, but misses out on structure. Mediterra-nean Specialty Products. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $NA

87 Companhia das Quintas 2010 Farizoa (Alentejano). Ripe and soft, this has notes

of plum skins, black cherries, dark chocolate and toast from the wood aging. It’s structured, powerful and worth aging for 2–3 years, although its richness makes it drinkable now. Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

87 Herdade Grande 2009 15 Vendimias Col-heita Seleccionada (Alentejano). Balanced

and structured, this has red fruit flavors, firm tannins and a core of concentrated dryness. It is ready to drink, although it could age for another year. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Herdade dos Machedos 2010 Toutalga (Alentejano). This is a ripe-fruited wine, rich

with dried fruits, sweet tannins and a soft texture. With its weight and juicy character, this is ready to drink. Sar-mento’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $4

86 Monte Seis Reis 2010 Boa Memória Red (Alentejano). This is spicy, with a dry, dusty

character that’s laid over the blackberry fruit. It is full on the palate, almost sweet in character, showing a soft, warm finish. Mediterranean Specialty Products. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

84 Herdade dos Machedos 2009 Morgado da Canita (Alentejano). This feels very ripe,

perhaps overripe, with its seemingly sweet flavor of black fruit juice and its soft structure. It’s appealing and does have some tannins, but it is not for aging. Sarmen-to’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $5

ALENTEJO REDS

92 Caves Aliança 2008 T Quinta da Terru-gem (Alentejo). Firm and structured, this is

a densely rich wine for aging. Firm tannins dominate its ripe black fruit, lending notes of spice, licorice and toast from the wood. It needs several years of aging to round out—give it four years at least. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

89 Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta da Terrugem (Alentejo). Deep, rich and softly ripe, this is

a powerful, generous wine. Its tannins are cushioned within the ripe blackberry and milk chocolate flavors. Ready to drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 Herdade dos Machedos 2010 Santos Jorge (Alentejo). Big, bold and tannic, this

has a solid structure that’s balanced by ripe fruit. It is full bodied, rich in damson and plum flavors, with a firm, dusty texture. Drink now, but this can also age over the next 1–2 years. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $7

BAIRRADA REDS

92 Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta das Bacela-das (Bairrada). Earthy aromas are a hallmark

of the Baga grape, a component of this full-bodied, tan-nic blend. With weight and richness, a mint note and new wood flavors, it is a serious wine that still should develop over three years. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Ataide da Costa Martins Seredo 2009 Ataide Seredo Reserva (Bairrada). Big,

rich and ripe, this is packed with intense black fruits and dark tannins, with the solid structure yielding a dense core. Its fruit is balanced by acidity, giving the wine essential lift. Age for 4–5 years. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Ataide da Costa Martins Seredo 2010 Ataide Seredo (Bairrada). With Baga in the

blend, this is a firm, ripe and tannic wine. It has a rich, tarry character, with dark plum and blueberry fruits. With its solid structure, this should age over 2–3 years. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

BEIRA INTERIOR REDS

93 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do Cardo Grande Escolha (Beira Interior).

An impressive, serious wine that’s only produced in top vintages. It’s elegant and complex, a powerful wine with its dark tannins, licorice and black plum flavors. Con-centrated and intense, it’s worth aging for at least four years. Importo LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

91 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do Cardo Reserva Touriga Nacional (Beira

Interior). From its almost black color, it’s obvious this is a powerful wine. The wood aging is initially appar-ent, with a mint flavor laid over firm, dry tannins. Then comes the ripe berry flavor and acidity. The integrated combination is dark, powerful and ready to age over 3–4 years. Importo LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do Cardo Selecção do Enólogo (Beira Interi-

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or). This is an austere wine that blossoms slowly. Using grapes sourced from a vineyard at an elevation of 2,000 feet, this has a wild herb character along with dark black fruits and tannins that need several years to age. Give this very ageworthy effort at least four years. Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

90 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do Cardo (Beira Interior). A firmly tannic wine,

this has a dark structure and black fruits. It has a strong minerally character to go with its fruit and acidity. With its weight and tannins, it has the potential to age for over several years. Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

BEIRAS REDS

93 Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Vinhas Velhas de Santa Maria (Beiras). Initial new

wood flavors show the youth of this complex wine. Then it fills out in the mouth with an explosive blackberry fla-vor and dense fruit tannins. With its power and flavor intensity, it has firm potential to age over at least five years. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $70

92 Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Red (Bei-ras). Dark, with dusty tannins and a solid, firm

structure, this has a dense character. The black plum fruit and intense underlying acidity yield a powerful wine that will age over several years. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

91 Aveleda 2010 Follies Fonte Nossa Sen-hora da Vandoma Touriga Nacional-

Cabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). For full review see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

90 Aveleda 2010 Follies Casa da Aguieira Touriga Nacional (Beiras). For full review

see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Caves Aliança 2009 Vista Reserva Touri-ga Nacional (Beiras). Wood aged, this is still

dominated by its toast character, but shows potential in its rich black fruits and powerful tannins. Complex and ageworthy, give it at least four years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

84 Caves Aliança 2009 Vista Tinta Roriz (Beiras). Lightweight, with smooth red fruit

and acidity, this is soft and round. The berry fruit neatly merges with the gentle tannins. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

DÃO REDS

91 Caves Aliança 2008 Quinta da Garrida Reserva (Dão). Full bodied and rich, this has

a juicy core followed by firm, minerally tannins and in-tense acidity. Wood aging adds complexity to this im-

pressive, ageworthy effort. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Sogrape 2009 Callabriga (Dão). A com-plex, full-bodied wine, structured with the

Dão’s typical taut minerality. It has richness hidden behind the firm tannins and dense texture. This is still young and will develop over the next 3–4 years. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Caves Aliança 2009 Aliança Reserva (Dão). This is a typical mineral-driven Dão

wine, with structure and complex, dry and firm fruits. Licorice and wood notes also add to the mix. This needs at least three years of aging. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

82 Vidigal 2010 Red (Dão). Lean and austere, this brings out the mineral character of the Dão

region without expressing the richer fruit side. It has tannins, juicy acidity and a tight, severe finish. Suprex International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

DOURO REDS

93 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta da Fronteira Grande Escolha (Douro). A vine-

yard selection is used to make this powerful, super ripe wine. With its opulent flavors, it is as densely packed with fruit as it is with tannins. Balanced and gorgeous, this is ready to drink now, yet it will age over several years. Importo LLC. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $60

93 Duorum 2009 Reserva Old Vines (Dou-ro). This is powerfully impressive, with its firm

structure giving great depth to the rich black-cherry and plum fruits. Dense and tannic, it needs to age for at least four years. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

93 Quinta do Portal 2009 Grande Reser-va (Douro). Always a powerful wine, this has

the added benefit of being produced from a fine vin-tage, yielding a hugely dense and concentrated bottling. Power comes from the ripe blackberry and black cur-rant fruit and from the dark, firm tannins. Age this wine at least five years. M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $39

93 Quinta do Portal 2009 Reserva (Douro). Still very youthful, this concentrated wine has

structure, deep black-fruit flavors and intense acidity. Its wood aging offers an extra spice note and a polished surface. Underneath, the wine is dense, needing aging. Give it 2–4 years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

92 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta da Fronteira Reserva (Douro). Powerful and

ripe, this is loaded with dark black fruit, spice from wood aging, licorice and bitter chocolate flavors. It’s im-pressively rich, concentrated and dark in both color and

feel; age it for four years. Importo LLC. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta da Fronteira Selecção do Enólogo (Douro).

Huge and rich, this offers ripe black fruits and a con-centrated structure. It’s packed with a seemingly sweet blackberry flavor that serves as a counterpoint to the firm texture. With both density and a dark edge, this will age over several years. Importo LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

92 Wines & Winemakers 2009 Andreza Grande Reserva (Douro). New-wood domi-

nates this wine, with a very toasty quality, a seemingly sweet vanilla flavor and a touch of pepper from the al-cohol. The black fruits are still burried under the wood character, although the fruits’ weight suggests they will broaden out with time. Give this powerful effort at least four years. Amara Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

91 Duorum 2010 Colheita (Douro). Richly structured and ripe, this has black tannins laced

with dark plum fruit. Its tannins promise aging while its fruit already offers a rounded taste. Keep for 3–4 years. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

91 Quinta do Portal 2009 Touriga Franca (Douro). An impressive single varietal wine,

this shows notes of spice, black currant and wood, along with dark tannins and a firm, dry core. With its acidity and tannins, this will likely age over several years. M Im-ports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

91 Sogrape 2009 Callabriga (Douro). Very structured and firm, this has dense tannins

overlaying the black currant fruit. Its dry, solid texture dominates, yielding an impressive wine that has fine juicy fruit now and will age well over four years. Evaton, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Wines & Winemakers 2010 Lua Nova em Vinhas Velhas (Douro). Using grapes

sourced from old vines, this is dark and concentrated. It’s dominated at the start by firm, dry tannins, with its power coming from its dark, brooding fruit and dense structure. Age for at least four years. Amara Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

90 DFJ Vinhos 2009 Vega (Douro). Smooth and wood-aged, this has a polished texture.

Fruit flavors of blueberry and red cherry combine with the rounded tannins and a spice note to give a rich feel. Full yet elegant, age this for the next two years. Dio-nysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

90 Quinta do Portal 2009 Touriga Nacional (Douro). Generous and spicy, this is full of

seemingly sweet black fruit, balanced by firm tannins


and juicy acidity. It is concentrated and full, with great depth of flavor. Ready to drink. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

90 Quinta do Portal 2009 Frontaria (Douro). This is smooth and ripe, with its tannins round-

ed within the black fruit flavor. Having aged in French oak, it has a vanilla essence that details the ripe black-berry note. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

89 Companhia das Quintas 2010 Fronteira (Douro). A blend of Touriga Nacional and

Touriga Franca, this is a firmly structured wine. It has dense tannins that are balanced with black currant and damson fruits. Aromatic and stylish, it should be aged for at least three years. Importo LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 DFJ Vinhos 2009 Paxis (Douro). Big and fruity, with soft and ripe tannins, this has a

strong juicy element, with blackberry juice and spice flavors that combine with the wood aging and lively acidity on the finish. It could be aged, but is ready to drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

89 Quinta do Portal 2010 Muras da Vinha (Douro). A spice note meshes with the tannins

and black currant acidity in this elegant wine. The fruit is bright and juicy; the tannins still firm and will likely always lend an edge of severity. Age for 2–3 years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Aveleda 2008 Charamba (Douro). Named after a Portuguese folk dance, this is a soft,

fruity wine. It has wood flavors, attractive black currant fruit and acidity that keeps it feeling fresh. Drink now, as this is not for aging. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Vidigal 2010 Red (Douro). With structured and ripe dark-berry fruits, this is a warm wine

that has a good mineral edge. Fine tannins give a sense of shape to the rich fruit flavors. Drink now or age for 2–3 years. Screwcap. Lion Importers and Distributors. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

85 Caves Aliança 2011 Foral (Douro). Spice and red plum flavors dominate this fruity, for-

ward effort. It has some tannins, but they seem lost in the wine’s easy character. For drinking over the next two years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

LISBOA REDS

93 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta de Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). This is beautiful,

with smooth, polished tannins and a spice note from the wood aging. It is layered with black plum, chocolate and licorice flavors, along with structure. The fruit is rich and likely to come forward in the next 3–4 years. Im-porto LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

92 DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). For full review see page

11. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $13

91 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta de Pancas Selecção do Enólogo (Lisboa).

This is both fruity and mineral driven, a combination that gives intense structure surrounded by ripe black fruit. Chocolate and spice notes come from the wood aging. All of the elements come together in a powerful, full-bodied effort that should age for three years. Im-porto LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

91 DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Alicante Bouschet (Lisboa). For full review see page

11. Best Buy.abv: 13.5% Price: $13

89 Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta de Pancas Reserva Touriga Nacional (Lis-

boa). Portugal’s national grape offers a richly grounded wine, with dark tannins, black plum fruit and tight acid-ity. The texture is dusty, and the wood aging just show-ing through on the finish. Importo LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

89 DFJ Vinhos 2009 Casa do Lago Grande Reserva (Lisboa). Profiting from the excep-

tional 2009 vintage, this is rich and full bodied, yet it retains elegance. Black fruits dominate the firm tannins, lending a juicy character to the ripe texture. The finish is suave and fruity. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

87 DFJ Vinhos 2009 Alta Corte (Lisboa). A blend of the unusual Caradoc varietal and Tinta

Roriz, this is ripe, fruity and spicy. It has enough rich black fruit to give weight while allowing the acidity and balancing tannins through. It’s enjoyable and ready to drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

86 Caves Bonifacio 2009 Alicante Bouschet (Lisboa). Dark colored, this has fresh red-ber-

ry and damson fruits. With soft tannins, this is a bright, fruity wine for drinking now. HGC Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

86 Caves Bonifacio 2009 Aragonez (Lis-boa). Fruity, juicy and packed with red berry

fruit, this is an attractive, easy-drinking wine. It is rich, with good dense flavors that are balanced by raspberry-like acidity on the finish. Grand Pere Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $10

86 DFJ Vinhos 2009 Portada Winemaker’s Selection (Lisboa). Ripe red fruits dominate

this warm, round wine. The light touch of acidity makes the fruit seem forward and bright, yet the core remains rich and smooth. Its soft tannins make this ready to drink now. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $7

85 DFJ Vinhos 2010 Coreto (Lisboa). De-spite its light touch, this is fruity and full, with

its blackberry fruit dominating the warm spice note and acidity. Soft tannins keep the wine together. Drink now. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $6

84 DFJ Vinhos 2010 Brigando (Lisboa). This is a lightweight, fruity and softly tannic wine.

The red berry flavor is bright and breezy, and the acid-ity is a dominant feature. Screwcap. Lionstone Interna-tional. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $10

84 Vidigal 2010 Reserva (Lisboa). Light and freshly fruity, this has a red berry flavor, with a

soft spice note and round tannins. There’s an odd toma-to flavor that creeps in at the end. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

SETUBAL REDS

89 José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periqui-ta Superyor (Setubal). Made from 100%

Castelão, Periquita Superyro pays homage to the time when Castelão was called Periquita. Aged in new wood, this is powerful and intense, with forward yet juicy tannins. Palm Bay International. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 José Maria da Fonseca 2009 Periquita Reserva (Setubal). This is big and juicy, with

extra weight imparted by the wood aging. Its flavors of spice and red fruit are laced with acidity. Full bodied and forward, this is quite drinkable. Palm Bay Interna-tional. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 José Maria da Fonseca 2010 Periquita Original (Setubal). Dominated by the local

Castelão grape, this easy-drinking, fruity wine has soft tannins, attractive acidity and blackberry fruit. Juicy and soft, this is a classic barbecue wine. Palm Bay Interna-tional. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

TEJO REDS

89 Falua 2010 Conde de Vimioso (Tejo). Complex and dense, this has a dry, firmly tan-

nic structure, with rich black-fruit and dark chocolate flavors. Spice and wood notes surface on the finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

88 Wines & Winemakers 2010 Compan-hia das Lezírias Samora (Tejo). This is a

dark wine, with an intense, dry structure and seeming-ly sweet fruit. It has a dense herb flavor, with notes of black plum, spice and bitter chocolate. Keep for a year. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Wines & Winemakers 2008 Companhia das Lezírias (Tejo). Big and spicy, this has

notes of ripe black fruit and raisin, with a tarry edge and

WineMag.com | 19

smooth tannins. It has an intense structure and a dry core, with a spice note and a touch of pepper from the alcohol. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

OTHER RED WINES

88 Caves Bonifacio 2009 Património (Tor-res Vedras). Ripe and smooth, this has an at-

tractive balance of blackberry flavor and spicy tannins, with a juicy character that makes it seem richly fruity. It could age for 1–2 years, but it’s drinkable now. HGC Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Adega de Monção 2011 Tinto (Vinho Verde). This lightly sparkling red is earthy and

tensely acidic. With its red currant fruit, mouth-filling acidity and tight tannins, this is meant to pair with oily foods—especially fish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $NA

85 Caves Aliança 2011 Terra Boa (Trans-montanas). From the far northeast region of

Tras-os-Montes, this is an attractively fruity wine. It has a core of tannins that are a fine complement to the blue-berry and damson fruits. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

84 Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Tinto (Por-tuguese Table Wine). Light and stalky, this

has black currant fruit and considerable acidity. With its soft tannins and fruity character, it is ready to drink now. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

PORT

92 Quinta do Portal 2009 Vintage Port. Deep and dark, this has powerful herb and spice fla-

vors alongside the concentrated tannins and notes of ripe black fruits and raisins. This has impressive density and is still youthful, demonstrating fine aging potential. M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $70

91 Cálem NV 10-Years Old White Port. Ap-proaching tawny in color, this is a mature white

Port. It has a wood-aged tang, with spice and toast fla-vors that have given the wine an old gold feel. The sur-face is sweet, yet there is an underlying dryness. Sogevi-nus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $NA

90 Barros NV 20-Years Old Tawny Port. This is rich, with an old wood feel and a sweet, still-

fruity character. With its acid balance, this is fresh, round and perfumed. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $NA

89 Quinta do Portal 2007 Late Bottled Vin-tage Port. Rich and fruity, this is rounded as

well as concentrated. It’s on the sweet side, yet its acid-ity and blend of black and dried fruits are finely bal-

anced. Like all LBVs, it can be consumed now, but it can also age over several years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $25

87 Burmester 2007 Late Bottled Vintage Port. Showing just the right amount of age, this

is a rich Port, with flavors of dried fruit and damson. Its tannins and firm character fit smoothly into the round texture. Ready to drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $NA

SPAIN

WHITE WINES

88 Viña Costeira 2011 Blanco (Ribeiro). The aromas of orange and mineral are uncomplicat-

ed and friendly. It feels pure and offers good flow, with apple, lime, mineral, white pepper and anise flavors. Fruity, dry and composed on the finish, this is great wine for patio sipping or pairing with seafood. Luxe Vintages. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

87 Bodegas Pirineos 2010 Selección Me-sache Blanco Macabeo-Gewürztramin-

er (Somontano). While it’s golden in color, the wine isn’t oaky or over the hill. Scents of buttercup, honey-suckle, baked apple and melon lead to a round, almost Burgundian-like mouthfeel. The flavors of melon, apple and peach are solid, and the finish is naturally creamy from the 50% Gewürztraminer in the blend—Macabeo comprises the other 50%. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

87 Marqués de Cáceres 2011 White (Rioja). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 12.5% Price: $9

86 El Circulo 2011 Blanco (Rioja). Green ba-nana, apple and mineral aromas are nothing to

get worked up over, but they are clean and inviting. This shows good acidity and lift on the palate, with pleasant flavors of citrus, nectarine and apple. It’s crisp and clean on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

86 El Coto 2011 White (Rioja). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 12% Price: $11

86 Enrique Mendoza 2010 Moscatel de la Marina (Alicante). Hard and capped on the

nose, this has mixed aromas of plastic, sulfur and white fruit. It feels creamy and tropical, with flavors of man-go, banana and honey, with some bitterness on the back palate and finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $19

86 Marqués de Caro 2011 Blanco (Valen-cia). Here’s a floral-smelling, light-style mix of

Moscatel and Macabeo that will function best as a quaff-ing wine. It smells of acacia and orange blossom, show-ing modest weight and acidity, with citrus and tropical

fruit flavors. The finish is short and light. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

85 Maximo 2011 Viura (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Aromas of hay and sweet grass are

offset by notes of apple and melon. It feels healthy and easy, with white peach, nectarine and apple flavors. It’s good and uncomplicated, with a touch of corn flavor on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

84 Luna Beberide 2010 Godello (Bierzo). The waxy apple aroma seems cidery and a touch

oxidized given how young the wine is. It feels flat and basic, with apricot and peach flavors, and a waxy bit-terness to the palate. The finish tastes stalky, like hay or straw. Only 250 cases made. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

83 Agustín Cubero 2011 Unus Old Vine Ma-cabeo (Calatayud). Oily on the nose, this

has a distinct whiff of matchstick and popcorn. It feels dry—like almond skins—with oily flavors of walnuts and white fruits. The finish is marked with a mild bitterness as well. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Blanco (Rioja). Quiet on the bouquet, this offers aromas and

flavors of a wine that’s in the early stages of decline. It feels mildly oxidized and tastes of hollow fruit and yeasty vanilla. The finish is mild, with a note of hay. Devo Enterprises Corporation. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

82 Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 2010 Cas-ta Diva Cosecha Dorada Dry Muscat

(Alicante-Marina Alta). The mildly floral nose leads to a lean and acidic palate, with flavors of lemon and green apple. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $19

81 Dominio de Punctum 2010 Lobetia Made with Organic Grapes Viognier (Vino de la

Tierra de Castilla). This smells like applesauce and pear, feeling tight as a drum on the palate, with sharp nectarine and apricot flavors. It’s tart and crimped on the finish. Terroir Wine Cellars. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

81 Vermador 2010 White Wine Made with Organic Grapes (Alicante). The nose smells

flat, with a scant scent of peach. It feels acidic and lacks body, with flavors of sour apple, dried papaya and bit-ter almond. A blend of 50% Macabeo and 50% Airen. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

VINTAGE CAVA

92 Raventós I Blanc 2009 de Nit (Cava). This has a pretty light color, with dry raspberry and

citrus scents. The palate is pure and elegant, with tan-gerine, grapefruit and nectarine flavors. This finishes


longer than most, with poise and grace. Valkyrie Selec-tions. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $26

90 Sonim 2009 Brut Nature (Cava). Substan-tive, with complexities on the bouquet, this has

a lemon-lime aroma that is dry, chiseled and friendly. It feels tangy, citrusy and crisp, with tangerine and lemon as the key flavors. This is fresh and focused from start to finish. The addition of 15% Chardonnay brings it up a notch. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $17

89 Mont Marçal 2009 Rosado Brut (Cava). This gets going with clean, light cherry and ber-

ry aromas that bring a citrus note to the fore. It feels crisp, dry and pure, with citrus, plum and dust flavors. An elegant rosé made from the Trepat grape, it finishes dry and spicy, with ample leftover fruit. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

89 Sumarroca 2009 Brut Reserva (Cava). What a difference a year makes: 2008 yielded

a fine wine, but the warmer 2009 vintage has produced a classic Cava with pretty aromas of apples and fresh green herbs. It feels chiseled and tight, with a mix of green apple, peach and nectarine flavors. Smooth and easy on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

88 Agustí Torelló Mata 2008 Brut Reserva (Cava). This leans a little green and soda-like

on the nose, but it picks up clarity and speed on the pal-ate, which carries a tangy, citric snap. It tastes of citrus and lees, and the finish is medium in length and healthy. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $21

87 Agustí Torelló Mata 2009 Aliguer Brut Vintage (Cava). This is a little wayward and

funky on the nose, with a lightly pickled aroma. It’s a forward Cava with a yeasty, creamy feel. Its acidity and proper bubbles set up flavors of pastry, powdered sug-ar and sweet apple. The finish is quick, ending with a white-pepper flavor. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $16

87 Mont Marçal 2008 Brut Reserva (Cava). The nectarine and mild vanilla aromas are sub-

dued yet solid. On the palate, it’s all about stone fruit flavors, such as peach and nectarine, with apple and ci-der notes on the balanced and healthy finish. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

86 Vilarnau 2009 Brut Nature (Cava). Apple, mineral and light yeast notes define the bou-

quet. It feels snappy and zesty, with a mix of pickled cit-rus, fresh sauerkraut and lemon flavors. This is cleans-ing and tangy on the tail end, with a briny finish. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

85 Gramona 2008 Gran Cuvee Brut (Cava). This smells yeasty and flat, with a heavy, bready

quality. The palate feels heady and plump, with a mealy citrus flavor and a lot of foam on the palate. It finishes a

little green, grassy and herbal, with a lettuce-like note. Eric Solomon Selections. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $24

NONVINTAGE CAVA

88 Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado (Cava). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.

abv: 12% Price: $12

88 Freixenet NV Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut (Cava). For full review see page 9.

abv: 11.5% Price: $18

88 La Xarmada NV Heretat de Sangenis Brut Nature (Cava). Toasty and a touch oily on

the nose, this has green fruit aromas of lime and kiwi. It shows crisp tartness on the palate, with a touch of grapefruit and core flavors of nectarine and orange. It’s dry on the quick finish, with a touch of almond skin. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

88 Mas Fi NV Brut (Cava). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 11.5% Price: $11

88 Masia Puigmoltó NV Absidis Brut Rosé (Cava). Dry, toasty and composed up front,

this has a nice palate set straight by proper acidity and base structure. Citrus and brown sugar flavors feature a note of orange rind, and it stays fresh and citrusy on the finish. Made from Trepat. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $16

88 Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva (Cava). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 12% Price: $10

87 Bodegas Solo Privee NV Cava. Lemon, lime, apple and nectarine aromas are regular

and clean. It feels good, citrusy and just round enough, with passion fruit, grapefruit and orange flavors. Tasty and fresh, this works well as a refresher. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $13

87 Freixenet NV Cordon Negro Brut 150 años (Cava). Freixenet’s signature Cava

is consistent and pure as usual, with aromas of white fruit and white pepper and an overall freshness on the nose. It feels crisp and focused, with a foamy palate that brings apple, lime, peach and spice flavors. The finish is smooth. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $12

86 Freixenet NV Elyssia Brut Pinot Noir (Cava). Creamsicle aromas have a dry tea note,

and overall this tastes like Pinot Noir. It feels foamy and soft, with flavors of tea leaf, orange and cherry. The fin-ish is rooty tasting and mild. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

86 Freixenet NV Spumante (Cava). Light, powdery, sweet and citrusy on the nose, this

becomes fairly creamy on the palate. It’s aggressively

sweet tasting but not cloying, with orange and mango fruit and a finish stocked with enlivening acidity. Freix-enet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $9

86 Masia Puigmoltó NV Absidis Brut (Cava). This is flowery and open on the nose, but then

it flattens out in the mouth, with mild cut and an easy bead. It tastes of soft apple and peach, while the finish fruity and satisfying. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $16

86 Segura Viudas NV Aria Estate Brut (Cava). Apple and stone fruit aromas come

with a mineral component and a stalky, hay note. It feels good and full, showing classic Cava flavors of stalky ap-ple and nectarine. The finish is smooth and easygoing. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $14

86 Unión Vinícola del Este NV Vega Medien Brut Macabeo-Chardonnay (Cava). Aro-

mas and peach, apple and a spot of hay make for a nice, clean and familiar bouquet. It feels fresh and easy, with tangerine, nectarine and spiced apple flavors. Crisp, solid and quick on the finish, this is clean overall. Ameri-can Northwest Distributors Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

86 Vilarnau NV Brut (Cava). The nose is de-fined by white fruit aromas, while the palate is a

bit flat in feel but lively enough. It tastes of papaya and peach, with a touch of green herb. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $16

85 Freixenet NV Carta Nevada Brut (Cava). Dry, crisp and nice, this has white fruit aromas

that are familiar and friendly. It comes across medium bodied, dusty and yeasty, with an apple accent and a vanilla flavor. The finish is lightly toasted and slightly briny. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $9

85 Maria Casanovas NV Glaç Brut Nature (Cava). Crisp white-fruit aromas come with a

touch of green grass. It feels regular, with briny lime and tart apple flavors. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $30

85 Segura Viudas NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Clean, dry and light on the nose, this has a

smoky, leafy accent. While it’s not superlively on the palate, it offers nice grapefruit, cherry and nectarine fla-vors, with a dry, smoky and tasty finish. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

85 Vilarnau NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Orange and nectarine aromas carry the nose to a wide, fairly

acidic palate that still manages to fall a little flat in terms of character. Mid-tier notes of orange and stone fruit set up a finish with similar flavors. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $18

WineMag.com | 21

83 Berberana NV Gran Tradición Brut (Cava). This smells like barbecue and Eastern

European oak. It feels flat and static, with woody res-in and savory flavors to go with notes of nectarine and white grape. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $12

82 Loxarel NV 999 Brut Nature Rosé (Cava). An idiosyncratic wine, offering a yeasty orange

marmalade aroma followed by a razor-sharp palate with sour citrus and apricot flavors. It’s grating and citric on the finish, with a yeasty offset. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

82 Mas Fi NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Heavy and dark in color, this is stalky on the nose, with a

compost component that doesn’t scream “fresh and ready.” It feels fairly snappy, but it tastes tart and slight-ly vegetal before finishing with rhubarb flavors. Wine- sellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $12

80 Unión Vinícola del Este NV Vega Medien Brut Rosé (Cava). Salmon in color, this is

pulpy and perfumed on the nose, with an artificial lean-ing. Overly foamy on the palate, this has a bitter, herbal flavor. American Northwest Distributors Inc. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

ROSADOS

83 Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Garnacha Ro-sado (Rioja). The candied red-fruit aroma is

soft yet snappy. It tastes briny and citrusy before ending with a persistent peppery bitterness and lively acidity. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

81 Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Conde de Valdemar Tempranillo-Garnacha Rosado

(Rioja). Twizzler and other red candy aromas lead to a creamy feeling yet acidic palate that tastes like raspber-ry extract. Sharp acidity prevents what would otherwise be a cloying wine. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

80 Bodegas del Mundo 2011 Valdemoreda Garnacha Rosado (Rioja). Strawberry and

raspberry aromas set up a reedy, flush palate with stem-my, candied strawberry flavors. Turns green and bitter on the finish. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

80 Peñascal 2011 Tempranillo Rosado (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Loud cit-

rus and berry aromas precede an overloaded palate that carries stalky plum flavors. Pickled tasting on the finish. HAB North America. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

BIERZO

91 Demencia de Autor 2008 Demencia Mencía (Bierzo). Dark, compact and black,

with graphite and growling blackberry aromas. Feels tight and drawing but serious and structured, with black

fruit, chocolate, toast and spice flavors. Blackened as well on the finish, with mint and toast. Hold until 2015. Enotrends LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $65

89 Luna Beberide 2009 Finca la Cuesta Mencía (Bierzo). Floral plum and blueberry

aromas are exotic and interesting as opposed to heavy and oaky. Shows rubbery tannins and a wide mouthfeel in front of roasted berry and plum flavors. Savory on the back end, with an oak character that’s not too demand-ing. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

88 Luna Beberide 2009 Art Mencía (Bierzo). Meaty, dense, savory and extremely oaky and

dark on the nose. Feels tannic and tough, with intensity to spare and tons of black-fruit flavor that turns more toasted, roasted and barbecued as the wine unfolds. Finishes with burnt meat and mint flavors along with grinding tannins. Needs another 3 or 4 years, and even then it may not be a soft, friendly Mencía. Grapes of Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $55

86 Peique 2010 Tinto Mencía (Bierzo). Plum and raspberry aromas turn herbal with airing.

Feels good and plump, with restrained tannins. Tastes like roasted red berries, dry oak and leather mixed with leafy herbs. Good but loses some clarity as it breathes. Steve Miles Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

86 V&N Cellars 2009 Mencía (Bierzo). A Bar-celona-based brand with this Bierzo label that’s

good, with generic red-fruit aromas and cheesy smelling oak. Feels light, snappy and feminine, with spicy, resiny flavors along with tart raspberry and tomato. Ends abruptly. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18

CAMPO DE BORJA

87 Coto de Hayas 2010 Roble Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon (Campo de Borja).

Briary red-fruit aromas are forward and attractive. Feels juicy, with good acidic cut and ample body. Flavors of dark plum and berry come with hints of crushed herbs and dry spices. Finishes bold, with peppery spice and a pinch of heat. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Mósen Cleto Crianza (Campo de Borja). Brambly red-

fruit aromas mix with notes of sweet milk chocolate and dust. It feels crisp, tight and fresh, with raspberry and lightly herbal plum flavors. This finishes taut and fruity. A blend of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo. Scop-erta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

86 El Pensador 2010 Tempranillo (Campo de Borja). Snappy cherry and berry aromas

have the slightest accent of mint and grass. It feels fresh, forward and tight, with plum and spicy berry flavors.

The finish remains fruity and firm. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Castillo de Fuendejalon Crianza (Campo de Borja).

This opens with lightly perfumed red-fruit aromas of raspberry and plum, with a bright palate that shows mostly red plum, raspberry and cherry flavors. This is a basic, clean wine comprised of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

84 Coto de Hayas 2008 Crianza (Campo de Borja). This is a dark specimen, with black-

fruit and raisiny aromas that turn herbal with time. It has rubbery tannins and flavors of plum and herb. Good as a whole but sort of squeeky and hard in feel. A blend of 60% Garnacha and 40% Tempranillo. Scoperta Im-porting Co. Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

EMPORDÀ

89 Oliver Conti 2009 Turó Negre (Empordà). Leather and smoky berry aromas lead to a lively,

racy palate that’s tight, crisp and traditional in feel. The plum, berry and earth flavors are old school—more elegant and restrained than pushy and forward. Long and chiseled on the finish, this is a blend of five grapes including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

88 Oliver Conti 2009 Ara (Empordà). Cherry cough drop, raspberry and minerally aromas

settle on the nose. This four-grape blend shows a lively palate that’s dry and crisp in feel, with raspberry, plum and red pepper flavors that lead to a tight finish that pe-ters out quickly. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

84 Oliver Conti 2008 Carlota (Empordà). Imagine all of the scents you associate with a

Margherita pizza and that’s what this wine smells like. The nose is leafy and full of oregano, basil and leather notes, while the flavor profile is pure tomato sauce, herb and spice. A blend of 75% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

JUMILLA

91 Bodegas Carchelo 2009 Sierva (Jumilla). Big and lush, this has graphite, coconut, minty

oak and huge berry fruit aromas. It’s plush in the mouth but not wayward or overly big, with roasted plum, molasses, leather and raspberry flavors and a forward barrel note. Savory and long on the finish, this is a blend of 40% Monastrell, 30% Tempranillo and 15% each Syrah and Cabernet. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

89 Bodegas Carchelo 2010 C (Jumilla). Fo-cused and fresh, this has aromas of berry and

integrated citrus. It feels rubbery and lush, with acidic


cut and roasted flavors of plum, blackberry and leather. It finishes mildly roasted and earthy, with a leathery last-ing impression. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Bodegas Luzón 2008 Luzón Crianza (Ju-milla). Hard and capped on the nose, this has

hints of cement, cheesy oak, minty fruit and tobacco. Savory and roasted on the palate, with a blend of Mar-sala and mushroom as well as saline, baked berry and ham notes. The finish is savory in a natural, nongreen way. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Las Hermanas 2010 Joven Monastrell-Syrah (Jumilla). This has an earthy nose, but

airing helps this Monastrell-Syrah blend move beyond the leathery, warm notes. It feels full yet balanced, with roasted, savory flavors of stewed plum and grilled meat. It’s warm, with a dose of molasses on the finish. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

83 Bodegas Luzón 2010 Luzón Monastrell-Syrah (Jumilla). This is leathery and stemmy

on the nose, with horsey plum and raspberry aromas. It feels narrow, with rubbery, herbal and roasted berry flavors. This is a rustic, roasted wine no matter how you slice it. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $9

MONTSANT

88 Aloja 2010 Montsant. Jammy berry, light mint and herb notes carry a jumpy nose to a pal-

ate that has oak-infused plum, raspberry and light herb flavors. It finishes mostly calm and collected, but also a touch racy, with a pastry flavor. Novo Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

88 Mas Sorrer 2010 Montsant. Roasted plum, baked berry and jammy aromas can’t be missed,

but it’s structured and not at all soft in the mouth, with wild berry, cherry and boysenberry flavors. It really pours on the fruit, ending fresh with no nonsense. Do-maine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Celler Dosterras 2009 Vespres (Mont-sant). This is dense and saturated, with crushed

blackberry and plum aromas that turn more jammy and granular as the wine breathes. It’s extracted and heavy on the palate, with candied black plum and berry flavors that lose steam on the finish. This could be too heavy for fans of leaner-bodied wines. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $28

87 Cellers Unió 2009 Perlat (Montsant). Plum and berry aromas get a strong assist from notes

of mint and licorice on the nose. Lively and packed on the palate, it’s acidic and lean, even more so as it un-winds and breathes. Flavors of baked red plum and mocha are followed by a balsamic-tasting finish. Mon-sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

83 Bula 2009 Montsant. This is brambly, stalky and baked on the nose, and the palate is wide,

tannic and scratchy. The flavor profile is all roasted plum, bacon and herb accents, finishing stalky and sa-vory. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

NAVARRA

89 Ochoa 2004 Single Vineyard Reserva Tempranillo (Navarra). Hard, crusty leather

is the opening aroma, then a touch of tar gives way to notes of tobacco, latent oak and perfumed, mature fruit. It feels full, grabby and on the cusp of being syrupy, with roasted berry and spice flavors. It shows an herbal, hot side on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $32

87 Bodegas Corellanas 2006 Viña Rubican Crianza Tempranillo (Navarra). Aromas

of root beer, autumn leaves, leather and raisins indi-cate ripeness more than heavyness. It shows lots of life and kick on the palate, where the flavors run toasty and rooty, with a hint of brown sugar. Peppy acidity keeps it lively and traditional through the finish. Deutsch Fam-ily Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Ochoa 2008 Crianza Tempranillo (Navar-ra). This smells nice and rooty, and also a bit

like strawberry jam. It feels steely, zesty, juicy and al-most too acidic, with blazing red plum and pie cherry flavors that are offset by integrated, spicy oak. It’s dry and tangy on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

86 Vega Sindoa 2010 Tempranillo (Navarra). Dark plum and berry aromas come with a touch

of rubber. It feels bright, healthy and juicy, with good body and earthy berry and dark plum flavors. While it’s not complicated, it’s accurate and flavorful. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $8

85 Castillo de Monjardin 2010 Tintico Tem-pranillo (Navarra). Cherry is the prime fruit

aroma, and overall the nose is rubbery and edgy. Feels squeeky and tannic, with plum and red berry flavors leading to a fresh but raw feeling and a peppery-tasting finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

PRIORAT

93 Cims de Porrera 2005 Clássic Carignan (Priorat). Modern and bulky, this has a lot of

great things going on. It opens with aromas of miner-al, graphite, sage and bold berry, with chewy, roasted black-fruit flavors. It’s long, compact, chocolaty and spicy on the finish. Still not mature but it’s drinkable—best from 2014 and on. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Edi-tors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $89

92 Clos Gebrat 2010 Priorat. Fresh, floral and not overbearing on the nose, this has red ber-

ry and cassis aromas, with no interference from oak

or too much extraction. It feels pure and elegant, with wild berry and cherry flavors that end on a ripe, slightly sweet-tasting finish. Good for near-term drinking. The Artisan Collection. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $24

91 La Conreria d’Scala Dei 2007 Iugiter (Pri-orat). Black fruit, heavy oak, tobacco and min-

eral aromas are welcoming on this ripped Priorat.It’s full bodied, holding onto its schisty character via berry fruit and mineral flavors. Additional oak, vanilla and mint flavors rise up on the finish, but there’s plenty of plum and cherry notes below the surface. 500 cases made. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $35

91 Mas Igneus 2009 Barranc dels Closos (Priorat). This is deep and fruity up front, with

blackberry and cola aromas that come with creamy oak and offsetting minerality. Full and jammy on the palate, with flavors of blackberry, fine herbs and lightly applied molasses. Round and concentrated on the finish. Drink now through 2016. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $25

90 Marco Abella 2007 Mas Mallola (Priorat). The rose petal and kirsch aromas are easy to

like, with notes of tobacco and smoky earth in the mix. It feels good, easygoing and mature, with raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. Cool, collected and mature as a whole, this is ready now. Vinea Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Nita 2010 Priorat. A touch scratchy on the bouquet, with a red berry aroma and a wild herb

note. It feels fresh and decidedly “red” in style, with red plum and red currant flavors. More easygoing than brooding, this finishes light. Drink now through 2015. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Bodegas La Cartuja 2009 Priorat. An oaky style of Priorat, this smells of hickory and camp-

fire, with bacon, plum and cherry notes. Solid but nar-row in the mouth, with berry and cherry flavors mixed with hard spice and chocolate notes. It has just enough acidity to stay fresh, turning slightly fiery on the finish. Ole Imports. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $15

87 Mas La Mola 2007 Priorat. This smells rub-bery, like a tire, before the berry and plum aro-

mas settle in—although it remains a bit like pastic in scent. It feels tight and balanced, with acidity pushing flavors of plum, strawberry and mineral. This is crisp, juicy and more acidic than weighty on the finish. Para-dor Selections, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

85 Ferré I Catasús 2008 Terra de Fic 1 (Prio-rat). Baked and heavy, this has prune, raisin and

jammy berry aromas. The weightiness carries onto the palate, which is chewy and smooth. Flavors of blackber-ry, spice and jammy syrup lead to a finish with a choco-laty tone. Tasted twice, with consistent results. M Im-ports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

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RIBERA DEL DUERO

94 Garcia Figuero 2006 Vendimia Seleccio-nada (Ribera del Duero). This is incredibly

inviting on the bouquet due to aromas of leather, raisin, tea and mocha. It feels lifted, benefiting from the su-perb structure and tannins, while the flavors of leathery berry, coffee, toast and chocolate are outstanding. This is pure, deep, elegant and impeccably balanced Tem-pranillo. Drink now–2018. Quintessential Wines. Edi-tors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $69

93 Alidis 2007 Expresión (Ribera del Duero). Rooty and earthy smelling, this has aromas of

leather, cassis, tobacco, dried cheese and cola. It feels rich and nicely textured, with firm but friendly tannins that set up tobacco, coffee, mocha and roasted berry flavors. It’s chocolaty in an uncanny way on the finish. Drink now through 2018. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. Edi-tors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $70

91 Montecastro 2007 y Llanahermosa (Ribera del Duero). This is dark and tarry at

first, with aromas of freshly laid asphalt, pepper, fine herbs, burnt toast and roasted berry. This feels racy, healthy and balanced, with a creamy quality to the pal-ate. It tastes natural and correct, with plum, berry, va-nilla and spice flavors. On the finish, it’s smooth with a strong oak-based vanilla flavor. Drink now through 2012. Classic Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $45

90 Telmo Rodríguez 2006 M2 de Matallana (Ribera del Duero). After a leafy, somewhat

burnt opening that seems muddled, things fall into place. The palate has a chewy, tannic, staunch feel that frames earthy berry, mocha, brown sugar and stewed plum flavors. It gets better and better as it unfolds, with prune and kirsch notes on the finish. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

89 Peñalba Herraiz 2009 Aptus (Ribera del Duero). Dark in color, this has an inviting mix

of herb, spice, black plum and roasted berry aromas. It shows good balance and saturation across the palate, with staunch tannins and a creamy feel. Flavors of black fruits, tobacco and vanilla are generous, while the fin-ish is not at all angular, choppy or challenging. Drink now–2014. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

87 Matarromera 2001 Gran Reserva (Ribera del Duero). Tobacco, brown sugar, dried fruit

and vanilla aromas work the bouquet, which is very nice. In the mouth, however, it’s acidic, almost to the point of being citrusy. Flavors of earthy sour plum and raspberry are propped up by lasting acids, while the palate teeters on lemony and shear. Drink now. Matar-romera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $110

87 Prado Rey 2009 Adaro de Prado Rey Cri-anza (Ribera del Duero). This smells savory

and roasted, like hickory, before turning earthy and

stalky as it airs out. But overall it’s firm on the palate, with roasted, oak-influenced flavors of savory berry and saline. Full on the finish, with healthy but not overly ag-gressive tannic bite. M Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Rios de Tinta 2010 Ribera del Duero. This smells bullish and chunky, with a lively, acid-

driven palate that boasts cherry, dark plum and cocoa flavors. It feels drawing and full of vitality, so serve this with food or allow it to breathe. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

86 Emilio Moro 2010 Finca Resalso (Ribera del Duero). Aromas of minty oak, pastry and

jammy raspberry set up a palate that’s racy, juicy and somewhat raw feeling, with plum and raspberry flavors. It’s woody on the finish, with a spice flavor. Multiple U.S. importers. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $17

86 Finca El Encinal 2009 Single Vineyard Roble (Ribera del Duero). Standard berry

aromas show touches of raisin and earth, but not too much of either. It feels fresh, crisp and alert, with cher-ry tomato, berry fruit, tobacco and vanilla flavors. This feels healthy but not real deep or complex on the finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Martín Berdugo 2010 Joven (Ribera del Duero). At first the nose is high toned and

jumpy, but with time it falls into a good place with a me-dicinal berry note at the fore. Solid, tannic and nervy, it has plum and noticeable young-oak flavors. This turns herbal tasting and choppy on the finish. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

84 Convento Oreja 2010 Roble (Ribera del Duero). Jumpy and nervy smelling, with totter-

ing aromas of jammy berry and strawberry. It feels di-lute at first, but more structure and body appear as the wine unfolds. The flavor of jammy raspberry is some-what herbal, and the finish is light. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23

84 Matiz 2010 Roble (Ribera del Duero). This smells a bit like asphalt and peanuts. It feels an-

gular, with plum, berry and pepper flavors. The finish is spicy, with drying tannins and a lasting leafy flavor. Steve Miles Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Viña Vilano 2010 Roble (Ribera del Duero). The nose smells minty and capped with rub-

bery, blackened aromas. It feels tangy and tannic, with medicinal flavors of berry and resiny oak. It’s powerful but rough. European Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

RIOJA

89 Marqués de Elciego 2007 Edición Limita-da Tempranillo (Rioja). This is black and tar-

ry on first take, but complex aromas of pine, baked plum

and wood smoke emerge. It has a nice full body and a few levels of texture, while the wine’s dark plum and berry flavors are generously spiced. This is composed, full and grabby on the finish. Drink now through 2018. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $69

87 Telmo Rodríguez 2010 LZ (Rioja). Black-fruit aromas are forceful, toasty and gritty. It

feels solid, fruity and full bodied, with black fruit flavors that come across ripe and generous. It’s oaky but not overly so. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Bodegas Riojanas 2008 Puerta Vieja Crianza (Rioja). Plum and berry aromas are

a touch rubbery at first, but they air out well. It feels medium bodied and clean, with traditional Rioja flavors of dry oak, dill, tobacco, plum and cherry. The finish is mild and fresh. Vintage Wines Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Bodegas Valdemar 2008 Conde de Valde-mar Crianza (Rioja). This is fruity but simple

on the nose, with plum and cherry aromas. It feels jam-my and a touch muddled, with boysenberry, plum and blackberry flavors but not much oak character. It’s grip-py on the finish. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Rioja. The nose is big and rubbery, with aromas of bacon, tar and

black plum. It feels young and choppy, with a lightly herbal berry flavor that turn more roasted in character as the wine opens. This gets the job done despite show-ing a roasted flavor throughout. Devo Enterprises Cor-poration. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

84 J. Garcia Carrion 2009 Antaño Tempra-nillo (Rioja). For full review see page 13. Best

Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $6

84 Viña Palaciega 2007 Crianza (Rioja). Bri-ary berry and milk chocolate aromas lead to

a tart, alert palate full of red berry, sour plum, vanilla and spice flavors. Juicy acidity creates a long, racy fin-ish that brings lasting raspberry character. Tri-Vin Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

83 J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Antaño Tempra-nillo (Rioja). This smells granular and jammy,

yet it feels snappy and dry, with raspberry, red plum, tomato and briny flavors. The finish is fresh and red in style. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

TORO

92 Quinola 2008 Toro. This is a serious Toro wine with smooth, dark, leathery aromas along

with hints of wintergreen, licorice and berry pastry. It feels rich and layered, with complex flavors of licorice gum drop, nutmeg, chocolate and blackberry. Almost


decadent but not over the top or too tannic. Drink now–2016. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $75

89 François Lurton 2008 Campo Alegre (Toro). Toasty oak and hickory aromas are the

primary greeting, with licorice, pastry and blackberry notes underneath. It feels saturated and chewy, with full-scale berry, prune, chocolate and mossy flavors. It’s dense on the finish, with smooth tannins and heft. Wi-nesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $30

86 Bodegas Torreduero 2008 Peñamonte 3 Meses de Barrica (Toro). After a somewhat

gritty start, the bouquet settles on aromas of perfumed red fruit and lemony oak. It feels full, with nice acidic cut, offering flavors of leather, earth and savory baked fruit. Fairly long and mildly herbal on the finish. Vintage Wines Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

85 Bodegas Fariña 2010 Dama de Toro Tem-pranillo (Toro). This smells a bit stalky, leath-

ery and warm at first, but airing brings it along. While it’s never all that vivid on the nose, it does smell of baked berry and plum. It feels wide and neither tannic nor tough, with lightly herbal, rustic flavors of plum and berry. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

85 Bodegas Fariña 2010 Vino Pr1mero (Toro). Call this Toro Nuevo in the same vein

as Beaujolais Nouveau—the grape juice becomes fin-ished wine in just six weeks. Look for a jammy nose with licorice and blackberry aromas and a simple palate that pushes plum and berry flavors, with little structure or stuffing. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

UTIEL-REQUENA

86 Bodegas Iranzo 2010 Vertus Wine Made with Organically Grown Grapes Cabernet

Sauvignon-Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). More flush and generous than the Vertus 100% Tempranil-lo, this blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Cabernet is bold but not heavy, with a medium body and clean, direct flavors of red berry and plum. It shows dashes of pepper and spice on the medium-long finish. Natural Merchants LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

85 Bodegas Iranzo 2010 Vertus Wine Made with Organically Grown Grapes Tempra-

nillo (Utiel-Requena). On the nose, raspberry and plum aromas come with a slight brambly note. The pal-ate is juicy and fresh, with flavors of plum, cherry and a touch of spice. This finishes steady, with focused flavors. Natural Merchants LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

85 Vicente Gandia 2008 Hoya de Cadenas Reserva Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena).

Earthy, roasted scents sit atop mild cherry and raspber-ry aromas that carry a slight green element. It feels shrill but juicy, with red plum and raspberry flavors. It’s mild,

lightly herbal and snappy on the finish. Vicente Gandia PLA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

85 Viña Degana 2008 Crianza Tempranillo Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). This is solid

stuff for the price, with berry and pencil eraser aromas. It feels more soft than hard, with a jammy mouthfeel and grabby tannins in front of berry and plum flavors that turn medicinal. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $5

84 Vicente Gandia 2010 Marqués de Chivé Crianza Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). This

has thin fruit aromas, with scents of herb and candied milk chocolate. It’s a solid wine for $8, with zesty acid-ity and standard raspberry and plum flavors. The light-weight finish turns lightly herbal. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

OTHER RED WINES

91 Torres 2008 Mas La Plana Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). For full

review see page 8.abv: 14% Price: $75

88 Anima Negra 2009 ÀN/2 (Vi de la Terra Mallorca). This is a unique wine from Mal-

lorca with light cherry and raspberry aromas. Clampy, dry and tannic on the palate, it’s full of savory, roasted barbecue flavors along with tomato and red fruit notes. Very Mallorcan in that it’s salty and savory from start to finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

88 Anima Negra 2007 Àn (Vi de la Terra Mal-lorca). Rusty in color, this is loaded with dill,

tobacco, lemon peel and spice aromas. It feels chop-py and jagged on its own, but will do better with food. Flavors of rooty, roasted berries are savory and baked, while the finish is dry and pinched. Drink now–2014. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

88 Torres 2008 Gran Coronas Reserva Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Penedès). Notes of

baked-berry, herb and savory spice come together well on the bouquet. It feels chunky and round but lively, with plum and cassis flavors that carry an herbal, toma-toey shading. This is fresh and herbal enough so that you know it’s Old World. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $24

85 Evohé 2010 Viñas Viejas Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra Ribera del Gállego-

Cinco Villas). The medicinal plum aroma comes with a note of celery as well as anise and/or licorice. It feels tight, with rough tannins, then tastes like fresh red ber-ries and plum. This is a bit edgy and choppy feeling, but solid for the price. Vinum International. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

85 Pardevalles 2008 Gamonal Prieto Picudo (Tierra de León). This is clean on the nose,

with blackberry and plum aromas. It feels full and sol-id, bearing flavors of black cherry and dark plum, with a meaty undertone. Mint, spice and black fruit notes carry the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $26

85 Vicente Gandia 2010 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon (Spain). The tea and raspberry

aromas are easygoing, and that best describes this or-ganic Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s powerful enough on the palate, with a good berry flavor that tilts towards rasp-berry. The finish is herbal and peppery. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

84 Terrenal 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ye-cla). This opens with standard cherry and berry

aromas before transitioning to a juicy palate with red berry, plum, herb and grass notes. It finishes a little hot and aggressive, but for $4 who’s complaining? L. Wat-son, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $4

84 Terrenal 2010 Estate Bottled Tempranillo (Yecla). Nice on the nose, this has a leafy note

and a mellow red-berry aroma. Bouncy and rubbery feeling, it has easygoing flavors of raspberry and plum. It’s candied and rubbery tasting on the finish, but good overall. L. Watson, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $4

83 Bodegas del Paramo 2009 El Médico Pri-eto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla

y León). Roasted and rubbery smelling, this has heavy oak influence that yields notes of mint and shoe. Shear-ing on the palate despite its body, this has flavors of oak-based vanilla, mint and sweet-and-sour plum. Prieto Picudo is a difficult grape to make into good wine. Clas-sical Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $37

83 Pago de Callejo 2008 Finca Valdelroble (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This

smells like a new coat of road tar mixed with black ol-ive tapenade and herb. It feels tannic and clumsy, with herb and stewed-fruit flavors. The cooked finish ends with roasted berry and olive notes. The Artisan Collec-tion. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

82 Bodegas Fariña 2010 Peromato Tem-pranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y

León). Rubbery on the nose, this has berry aromas lurking below. On the palate, it feels acidic, with tart raspberry flavors. It’s lean on the finish, with a touch of oak. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

82 Raimat 2007 Castell de Raimat Cabernet Sauvignon (Costers del Segre). A tight

note of spearmint defines the nose. The palate follows suit: It’s pinched and hard, with outsized acidity leading to a lemony palate, with searing cherry and red plum flavors. It doesn’t waiver on the finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

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DESSERT WINES

97 Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 1999 Cas-ta Diva Fondillón Sweet Monastrell (Ali-

cante). Fondillón represents the pinnacle of red Span-ish dessert wines, and the 1999 vintage just might make your jaw drop. Subtle but expansive on the nose, with a blend of baked dark-fruit and cinnamon aromas, it is liquid heaven in the mouth, with excellent balance and flavors of roasted plums, black cherry, nutmeg and chocolate. This is pure, structured and outstanding from start to finish. Drink now or hold in a proper cellar for another 10 or 20 years. 100 cases made. Classical Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 16% Price: $88/500 ml

92 Ochoa 2010 Vino Dulce Moscatel (Navar-ra). This smells like orange marmalade. It feels

smooth and creamy, but not terribly thick due to fine acidity, with flavors of orange, honey, peach and spice. Long and creamy on the finish, this is a fresh, delicious wine that should impress anyone with a sweet tooth. Frontier Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $28/500 ml

91 Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 2007 Cas-ta Diva Recóndita Armonía Sweet Monas-

trell (Alicante). Composed and not the least bit pushy or punishing on the bouquet, this has gorgeous berry and spice aromas. It feels a bit racy and high in acidity, but that will only serve the wine well in the long run. Plum and boysenberry flavors lead to a racy, high-acid finish. Drink now–2020. Classical Wines. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30/500 ml

90 Costers del Priorat 2007 Dolç de l’Obac (Priorat). This starts out with mustard and

horseradish aromas, but with the chance to breath, it reveals a dark berry scent. The palate feels tannic and sticky, with flavors of cooked plum, hard spice and brown sugar. It’s grabby, fiery and full of flavor on the finish, with a slightly abrasive feel. Spanish Vines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 17% Price: $129/500 ml

88 Dehesa el Carrascal 2008 Dulcemar Gar-nacha (Almansa). Rusty in color, this has a

baked fruit aromas suggestive of raisin, cherry and plum. It’s thick, but it maintains freshness due to the solid acidity. This feels heavy, with robust flavors of roasted plum and blackberry, but the finish isn’t cloying. Iberian Wine Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25/500 ml

PROVENCE

WHITE WINES

89 Château Routas 2010 Coquelicot Viog-nier-Chardonnay (Vin de Pays Var).

Smooth and rich, its creamy texture is rounded out with a toast note. Flavors of peppered apricot and green plum work well together to give a warm, concentrated

wine that shows all of its ripe fruit up front. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Triennes 2010 Sainte-Fleur Viognier (Vin de Pays Var). This is a smooth, orange- and

peach-flavored wine, with a rich almost oily texture. It’s rounded with light acidity on the finish. With its weight, this is a wine for food. The Sorting Table. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

85 Château Routas 2010 White (Vin de Pays Var). Earthy aromas lead to a palate that is full

bodied, with notes of yeast and spice to go with the white fruit. It has attractive acidity and a tangy citrusy finish. Screwcap. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

ROSÉS

89 Domaine Sainte-Marie 2011 VieVité Ex-traordinaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence).

This is a complex, bone-dry rosé, with red fruit flavor, tight acidity and a mineral edge. With its weight, it is food friendly, offering a fine counterpoint to spicy dish-es. Turquoise Life. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Moncigale 2011 Frais et Délicat Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Full in the mouth, this

food-friendly, minerally and textured wine has red berry fruits that are balanced by a tangy orange-zest charac-ter and a dry aftertaste. Grantham Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Prestige Rosé (Côtes de Provence). As pale in color

as is possible for a rosé, this is bright, crisp and fruity.It has delicious acidity and red apple and citrus flavors, with a burst of red currant on the finish. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

88 Moncigale 2011 Frais et Fruité Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is bright and

fruity, with light, fragrant and poised red fruit. It has attractive acidity to balance. Grantham Distributing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Cuvée Spéciale Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This

is a soft wine that is full in the mouth, with a raspberry purée flavor and soft acidity. It’s round with a depth of red fruit flavor and a warm finish. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Domaine Sainte-Marie 2011 VieVité Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A fresh-faced rosé,

with a rose-grey color, this has red fruit acidity and an attractive, creamy character to go with the crisp finish. Turquoise Life. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

86 Bieler Père et Fils 2011 Sabine Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Rounded

and soft, this has a touch of vanilla to go with the sweet

strawberry fruit and crisp yet open acidity. Well bal-anced and dry, this would make for a good apéritif. Screwcap. Bieler Communications. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Breezette Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Light, fruity and

balanced, this combines acidity, red fruit and a bright feel. For drinking over this year. Turquoise Life. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Vignerons de Correns 2011 Croix de Basson Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Full-

bodied and ripely fruity, this has attractive strawberry fruits and a round texture. The acidity adds some fresh-ness. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

RED WINES

90 Château Routas 2008 Cyrano Syrah (Vin de Pays Var). Ripe and rich, this is a concen-

trated, spicy and perfumed Syrah. It is packed with sweet tannins and juicy blackberry fruit, with a cut of acidity. Its richness makes it already mature, although it could age for another few years. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

89 Domaine de la Sanglière 2009 Prestige (Côtes de Provence). The aromas are warm

and spicy. On the palate, there is a herbal character along with smooth red plum fruit and a toast note. It is rich while still preserving a light touch and acidity on the finish. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Château Routas 2009 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Vin de Pays Var). Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon in Provence seems to evoke the herbal wild-thyme character of the countryside. This wine has weight to its black fruit flavors, with an edge from its tannins and acidity. It could age for 2–3 years. Screwcap. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 13.8% Price: $NA

87 Triennes 2008 Saint-August (Vin de Pays Var). A ripe and spicy blend of Syrah, Cabernet

Sauvignon and Merlot, this has ripe black fruits that are laced with firm, dry tannins. There is a herbal character that gives it an edge. The Sorting Table. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

85 Domaine de la Sanglière 2010 Cuvée Spéciale (Côtes de Provence). This is

tastes stalky, with a red fruit flavor. It has acidity along with a vegetal, herbal character. With taut acidity and a dry, tannic finish, this is a real barbecue wine. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

SOUTHWEST FRANCE

BERGERAC SEC

90 Château de la Jaubertie 2010 Mirabelle de la Jaubertie (Bergerac Sec). This wood-


aged wine shows equal notes of toasty spice and ripe fruit. On the palate, it’s full and round, with pear and apricot flavors giving it richness. This is concentrated and worth aging for another 2–3 years. Bird Rock Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

87 Château de Corbiac 2011 Cyrano de Bergerac (Bergerac Sec). This herbaceous

wine has a green note, with layers of citrus fruits and an orange zest texture that lends a bright, fruity character. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

85 Château Bélingard 2011 Bergerac Sec. Smooth and rounded, this has light acidity, with

citrus and pear flavors and a crisp finish. It needs to age for a year longer to allow its textured character a chance to smooth out even more. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir-its. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

85 Château de la Jaubertie 2011 Bergerac Sec. Crisp and herbaceous, this has a citrus and

green fruit character. Already drinkable, it is bright and fruity, finishing with a citrus tang. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2011 Berger-ac Sec. Aromatic and richly fruity, this has sur-

prising weight that gives the palate a round and smooth quality. The acidity is there, although it is covered by the superrich fruit. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

CÔTES DE GASCOGNE

87 Domaine du Tariquet 2011 Classic White (Côtes de Gascogne). Celebrating 100

years of the domaine this year, Tariquet’s range of wines begins with this classic white. This has a crisp fruitiness, with a floral character and flavors of green plum, pear and a hint of pineapple. It’s delicious and ready to drink. Screwcap. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

87 Domaine Uby 2011 No. 1 Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). This is a

tropical-fruit-oriented Sauvignon Blanc, with notes of yellow fruits and spices and a very floral character. With its textured nature, it could age for another year. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

87 Domaine Uby 2011 No. 3 Ugni Blanc- Colombard (Côtes de Gascogne). Fruity

and crisp, this has fresh fruit with a herbal edge. It is bright with a green fruit character, finishing with a note of citrus. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

86 Barton & Guestier 2011 Réserve Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). Bright

and fruity, this has an herbal character that’s balanced by flavors of pineapple, red apple and a fine tang of

refreshing citrus. Screwcap. Barton & Guestier USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $8

85 François Lurton 2011 Fumées Blanches Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne).

This is a pure and herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp, citrus driven and refreshing, it has a clean character and a delicious zesty texture that acidity to the fruitiness. Screwcap. Vintus LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $10

85 Vignobles Drieux 2011 Villa Dria Colom-bard-Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gas-

cogne). Spice and seemingly sweet grapefruit flavors give this light, lively and crisp wine an attractive fruity character. It dances easily on the palate, finishing with good tang. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $13

84 Cheval Quancard 2011 Domaine de Lamothe Colombard-Sauvignon Blanc

(Côtes de Gascogne). Fragrant, fresh and fruity, this light and bright wine offers an herbal character to go with its citrus and green apple fruits. It is lively and crisp—a fine apéritif. Screwcap. Cheval Quancard. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $13

JURANÇON SEC

90 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Cami Salié (Ju-rançon Sec). The two great white grapes of

southwest France, Gros Manseg and Petit Manseng, are blended together to create this crisp, peach- and citrus-flavored wine. A spice note adds a more exotic edge, while the wine finishes with tight, tangy acidity. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $17

88 Domaine Nigri 2011 Confluence (Juran-çon Sec). With a little addition of the local

grapes Camaralet and Lauzet, this Gros Manseng-dom-inated wine is aromatic and spicy, packed with green-fruit acidity. The texture has a creamed-pear smooth-ness to contrast with the acidity. This will be delicious in a year. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

OTHER WHITE WINES

86 Château le Raz 2010 White (Côtes de Montravel). This is a lightly sweet wine that

has perfumed apricot and orange fruits. Balanced with acidity, this would be just right as an apéritif. Demon-toux Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16

85 Château le Raz 2010 White (Montravel). White currant is the dominant flavor of this her-

baceous, tangy wine. It also has notes of has green fruit and pink grapefruit, with a tight, zingy finish. Demon-toux Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

ROSÉS

88 Triennes 2011 Rosé (Vin de Pays Var). This is has flavors of apple and red currant, with

a dry, light touch. The acidity cuts through the palate, giving it an attractive freshness, with a touch of spice and a crisp finish. The Sorting Table. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19

85 Château Plaisance 2011 Rosé (Fronton). This is a smooth, rounded rosé made mainly

from Négrette. Along with its youthful crispness, it also has a more creamy side and a crushed strawberry fla-vor, all lightened by balancing acidity. VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 Château Bélingard 2011 Rosé (Bergerac Rosé). Soft and ripe, this has a red fruit fla-

vor, with richness and a round texture. There is a touch of spice, with a light hint of acidity in the background. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

BERGERAC ROUGE

90 Château Bélingard 2009 Cuvée Blanche de Bosredon (Côtes de Bergerac). This is

a firm, chunky wine that shows ripe plum fruit and dark tannins. It has weight and richness that are balanced by the dense structure. It needs to age for at least four years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Château Bélingard 2009 Ortus (Côtes de Bergerac). This wood-aged cuvée from

Château Belingard has great weight and concentration while also showing dense spice and blackberry flavors. At this stage, it is showing the wood; but in another year, it will round out and its dark juicy fruit will come for-ward. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90 Château de la Jaubertie 2008 Mirabelle de la Jaubertie (Bergerac). Made using

selections of the best parcels from Jaubertie, this is a complex and structured wine. Mint and new wood fla-vors are still dominant, although the fruit shows its black fruit richness. Age for over four years. Bird Rock Im-ports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Château Bélingard 2010 Red (Bergerac). Structured and firm, this is a solid, chunky wine.

With its black fruit flavors merging with a more dry and tannic core, it is both dense and ageworthy. Acidity leavens its rich character. Age for 3–4 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

87 Château de la Jaubertie 2007 Mirabelle de la Jaubertie (Bergerac). This is a firm

and tannic wine that is maturing. It remains dry, with a definite mineral character to go with the black currant

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fruit. It’s not likely to age further. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Château Bélingard 2010 Cuvée Alliance (Bergerac). The structure is present as is

the bright black-currant fruit. It has some richness, al-though it is tempered with acidity and a stalky charac-ter. Age for 2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Château de la Jaubertie 2010 Red (Bergerac). A fruity wine that’s laced with

wood, this is smooth and lightly tannic. The red and black berry fruits are at the fore, supported by a toast character and lifting acidity Age for 1–2 years, but the wine is drinkable now. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

84 Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2009 Red (Bergerac). This is a rough-edged wine that

has some dry tannins and red berry acidity. It’s light on the palate with a fresh character. Drink in a year. Ste-phen Augustus Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

CAHORS

93 Jean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina The New Black Wine (Cahors). Made from

grape must that is heated before fermentation, this is powerful and concentrated, with a rich and very dense character. Prune, dried fruit and fresh plum notes com-bine with an intense background of acidity. Age for at least five years. Eagle Eye Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $50

93 Mas del Périé 2009 La Pièce (Cahors). The top cuvée from Mas del Périé, this is a con-

centrated wine, with new wood and black fruit notes. It’s packed with intense tannins, spice from the wood aging and a great depth of flavor. This is an impressive wine that will need to age for at least 5–6 years. Wine Traditions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

92 Mas del Périé 2009 Les Acacias (Ca-hors). Hugely concentrated, powerful and

ageworthy, this has mint and new wood aromas. It has rich damson and blackberry fruits that push through the mineral texture and dark tannins, filling the mouth with its exuberant ripeness. Age for four years. Wine Tradi-tions. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

91 Jean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina (Cahors). This is beautifully structured,

packed with black fruits, ripe tannins and balanced acid-ity. It’s still young, showing the black fruit side of Mal-bec, but the tannins are already integrating well into the structure. Age for 4–5 years. European Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23

91 Mas del Périé 2010 La Roque (Cahors). Dense and almost black in color, this is con-

centrated, with intense tannins and black plum fruit. It bursts with the rich fruit and acidity, finishing on a smoky, juicy note. Wine Traditions. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Château d’Ourbenac 2006 Cahors. Pow-erful and concentrated, this has flavors of black

plum skin and damson, with a juicy layer surrounding the solid structure. Weighty and dense, it could age for several more years. CIL US Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Château Vincens 2009 Origine (Cahors). Dominated by its new wood flavors, this dense

and concentrated wine has the weight, potential black-fruit richness and acidity that suggest a good future. Age for 3–4 years. Jon-David Headrick Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

89 Château Vincens 2009 L’Instant (Ca-hors). A mineral-driven wine, this is structured

and firmly tannic. It has weight and concentration along with wood and blackberry flavors. Very concentrated, age this for another two years. Jon-David Headrick Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $11

89 Jean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina Petit Clos (Cahors). This is an attractive

wine, with fruit and firm, supporting tannins. It has a mint flavor and a smooth texture, balanced with damson fruit. This is ripe and ready to drink over the next year. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Mas del Périé 2010 Les Escures (Ca-hors). Forward and fruity, this is already devel-

oping its black plum fruit. The wine has a ripe, juicy and seemingly sweet character. With its supporting tannins, this should be ready to drink in 1–2 years. Wine Tradi-tions. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $17

OTHER RED WINES

91 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Mon Adour (Madiran). The wine’s name comes from the

Adour River that flows through the Madiran region. This is dark colored, powerful and spicy, with weight and richness that should allow this to age for at least four years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

90 Château le Raz 2005 Red (Montravel). This is a finely structured, tarry-flavored wine,

with notes of herbs and sweet spices along with mature fruits. It’s rich and full bodied, with just a touch of pep-per. Drink now or age for another year. Demontoux Fine Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Donibane (Irrouléguy). A blend of Cabernet Franc and

Tannat, this is spicy, smoky and herbal. It is dense, with

a green, stalky edge that comes from the acidity and black tannins. Age for two years. Pierre Courdurie Se-lections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

87 Château Plaisance 2010 Red (Fronton). With a predominance of Négrette in the blend,

this is a warm and spicy wine. It has attractive flavors of red fruits, herbs and juicy peppered-plums, with some firm tannins. It could age for 2–3 years. VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Domaine Laurens 2009 Cuvée de Flars (Marcillac). A blend of 20% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon and 80% Fer Servadou, this is the top cuvée from Domaine Laurens. It has a new wood richness and firm tannins, with an herbal character that blends into the blackberry fruit. Age for another year. Bird Rock Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Cave du Marmandais 2009 La Vieille Eg-lise Réserve (Côtes du Marmandais).

With 30% of the local Abouriou grape in the blend, this is herbal and spicy. It has a round character that is beefed up by the weight and tannins imparted by the addition of Malbec. Red fruits dominate, making this ready to drink. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Domaine Laurens 2010 Marcillac. This is herbal, with black currant and thyme flavors

all set in tannins. The Fer Servadou grape gives this a stalky, wild feeling. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Rigal 2010 The Original Malbec (Vin de Pays du Lot). Light and juicy, this has fresh

blackcurrant fruit, with balanced tannins. With its fruit forward flavor, it’s not a wine for aging. Vinum Interna-tional . —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

DESSERT WINES

90 Domaine Nigri 2010 Pas de Deux (Ju-rançon). Beautifully balanced and poised, this

blends light, dancing acidity with rich, sweet botrytis fruit. It’s fruity, with honey and orange flavors that are a delight to taste. It could be aged, but it is delicious now. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Domaine Uby 2011 No. 4 (Côtes de Gas-cogne). Medium sweet in character, this is a

round, ripe wine. Its flavors show apricot, bitter orange and tangerine that are spiced with just a touch of honey. Pair this with a pâté or a fruit dessert. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

88 Château Bélingard 2009 Monbazillac. Light and fruity, this has honey, spice and tan-

gerine flavors. It is smooth, rounded and rich; age for


2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

88 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Estela Vintage (Vin de Liqueur). A fortified blend of Tannat

and Malbec, this is a ripe and sweet, styled like a vintage Port. It has a powerful structure from the two tannic grapes in the blend, along with ripe damson fruit and spice, with acidity on the finish. Pierre Courdurie Selec-tions/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 16.5% Price: $24

87 Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2009 Monba-zillac. Rich and concentrated, this has flavors

of honey and vanilla wafer. It has a bite of ginger and orange marmalade. The acidity is subdued, suggesting a wine that will age quickly and mature in the next year. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa Chambre d’Amour (Jurançon). This is a lightly sweet

wine made from superripe Gros Manseng and Sauvi-gnon Blanc. It has apricot, raisin and pineapple flavors along with some yeastiness. A fine apéritif wine. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 10.5% Price: $12

RHÔNE WHITES

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

90 Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This full-

bodied blend of 60% Clairette and 40% Roussanne is probably best consumed over the next several months. The apple and tangerine aromas and flavors are inviting, and there’s a minerally sensation of wet stones under-neath. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $47

89 Domaine Font de Michelle 2009 Châ-teauneuf-du-Pape. This is a broad, mouth-

coating blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette and Bourboulenc. Apricot, tangerine and honey notes dominate the palate, finishing long and just a bit warm. Opt for drinking it over the next 6–9 months. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

86 Vignobles La Coterie 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This 2007 is nearing the end of its

shelf life, but it still features a round, ample mouthfeel and pleasant honey, peach and citrus flavors. Drink up. Cordon Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

84 Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand Veneur La Fontaine (Châteauneuf-du-

Pape). A rare slip up from the talented Jaume family, this 100% Roussanne is swimming in smoky, toasty oak, with the fruit currently hidden. You could gamble on it bouncing back in 5–6 years, or just wait for the better-balanced 2010. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

CÔTES DU RHÔNE

91 E. Guigal 2010 Côtes du Rhône. More than half of the blend is Viognier, which no doubt ac-

counts for its dramatic aromas and flavors of exotic trop-ical fruit, only just reined in by more citrusy notes. It’s full bodied and round in the mouth without being at all flabby, with a crisp, clean, lingering finish. Drink it over the next year. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

90 Alain Jaume et Fils 2010 Domaine Grand Veneur Blanc de Viognier (Côtes du

Rhône). Viognier from the Southern Rhône can of-ten be overripe and heavy, but while this offering from Grand Veneur is full bodied and richly textured, it re-mains reasonably fresh. Apricot, pineapple and pas-sion fruit flavors mingle easily on the palate, finishing clean and long. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90 André Brunel 2010 Domaine de la Becas-sonne (Côtes du Rhône). This wine deliv-

ers all you could want from a Southern Rhône white, from its ample weight in the mouth to its deft combina-tion of melon, citrus and wet stone. Finishes long and mouthwatering. Drink over the next 6–9 months. Rob-ert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $16

89 Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Les Laurelles (Côtes du Rhône). Despite containing 50%

Viognier, this is a restrained Côtes du Rhône white, with subtle citrus and wet stone shadings and a refined, medium-weight mouthfeel. It finishes well, with plenty of length and hints of citrus and honey. Drink it over the next year or two. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 LePlan-Vermeersch 2010 LePlan Clas-sic (Côtes du Rhône). This is fresh and cit-

rusy, with melony fruit and ample weight on the palate but also enough backbone to keep the flavors taut and focused. Drink it over the next year or so. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Alain Jaume et Fils 2010 Réserve Grand Veneur (Côtes du Rhône). A blend of 50%

Roussanne, 40% Viognier and 10% Clairette, this is a full-bodied Southern Rhône that somehow manages to retain aromas of wet stone and crisp, zesty flavors of melon and pear. Drink it over the next several months. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Ferraton Pere et Fils 2010 Samorëns (Côtes du Rhône). The Grenache Blanc

(60%) gives this wine its delicate aromas of white flow-ers, while the Clairette (40%) provides backbone and pineapple fruit. Drink this relatively soft, mouthfilling white over the next few months. Baron Francois Ltd. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 Ogier 2010 Heritages Blanc (Côtes du Rhône). A surprisingly strong effort, Ogier’s

Heritage Blanc shows some intriguing notes of orange and mushroom on the nose, then follows up with plenty of heft on the palate and a long, citrusy finish. Drink it over the next several months. Vinum International. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

87 Perrin & Fils 2010 Réserve (Côtes du Rhône). The Perrin family’s line of négociant

wines includes this reliable white, which features melon and pineapple aromas and flavors, medium body and a clean, reasonably crisp finish. Drink it over the next six months. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $11

86 Andrieux & Fils 2010 Cuvée Marie Vieilles Vignes (Côtes du Rhône). This

full-bodied blend of Viognier, Clairette and Grenache Blanc is a pretty typical white from the Southern Rhône. It’s largely neutral in aroma and flavor save for a modest melon note, with a weighty mouthfeel. Drink soon. Vinum Distribution Inc. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

OTHER WHITE WINES

90 Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Viognier (Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes). A ter-

rific value in French Viognier, this “simple” Vin de Pays displays full-on floral aromas of honeysuckle and rose pollen, fleshed out on the palate by hints of apricot and pineapple. It’s medium to full in body, with a slightly creamy texture and a dusting of tannin and white pep-per on the finish. Drink it over the next year or so. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

85 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Secret de Famille Viognier (Vin de Pays des Portes

de Méditerranée). This is a pleasantly quaffable Viog-nier, with restrained apricot and melon aromas and fla-vors. It’s medium bodied, without much texture, but a clean, refreshing finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $18

RHÔNE REDS

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

93 Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand Veneur Les Origines (Châteauneuf-du-

Pape). Loaded with black cherry and plum fruit, this is an amply endowed Châteauneuf-du-Pape that avoids excess. The fruit flavors remain fresh and vibrant, the oaking is understated and the wine’s size is ably sup-ported by soft tannins and just-sufficient acidity. Drink now–2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 15.5% Price: $70

92 Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Even

Grand Veneur’s traditional cuvée shines in 2009, offer-ing up notions of black cherries and chocolate liqueur.

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It’s full bodied and richly textured, with a long, velvety finish. Simply put, it’s plush and delicious, with no need to age it any further. Drink now–2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 15.5% Price: $53

91 Les Trois Couronnes 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This blend of 60% Grenache, 20%

Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre delivers juicy, almost gulpable fruit, supported by a loose spine of soft tannins. Purple raspberry and black cherry flavors linger on the supple finish. Drink now–2018. The Other Wine & Spirits. Ed-itors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $35

91 M. Chapoutier 2009 Le Bernardine (Châ-teauneuf-du-Pape). Chapoutier has fashioned

a full-bodied, creamy-textured 2009 Le Bernardine, with dark, plummy fruit and a hint of chocolate liqueur that ably reflect the warm vintage. Yet despite all of the lushness, the wine doesn’t come across as heavy or over-done, making it attractive for early drinking. Try now–2018. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $56

91 Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Lieu-Dit Pignan (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is a wine that

teeters on the edge between superripeness and over-ripeness. At one moment its fruit comes across as slight-ly herbal and raspberry-like, while the next it can seem slightly raisined, with a hint of nail polish. It’s round and creamy in texture, with a long finish framed in ele-gant, soft tannins. Drink now–2018. Massanois Imports. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $74

90 Domaine de Nalys 2009 Réserve (Châ-teauneuf-du-Pape). Atypical for the appella-

tion in that it’s 80% Syrah, this is a dark-fruited, slightly pruny Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Chocolate and licorice notes add complexity to this full-bodied, firmly struc-tured wine. With its long, chewy finish, consider defer-ring consumption until at least 2014. Frank-Lin Inter-national. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $68

90 Kirkland Signature 2010 Cuvée de Nalys (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). For full review see

page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is a silky-textured, medium-bodied

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with lifted red-berry fruit and grace notes of thyme blossom and bay leaf. It’s a truly elegant style, with a supple, mouth-watering finish. Drink now–2018. Massanois Imports. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $51

90 Skalli 2009 La Tiare du Pape (Châ-teauneuf-du-Pape). Shows some oak aging

in its aromas of cedar, caramel and baking spices, but also in the velvety mouthfeel and slightly drying finish. Thankfully, there are just enough ripe cherries to carry the freight, so while purists may be dismayed, plenty

more will enjoy the wine’s mix of fruit and oak. Drink now–2018. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Delas Frères 2009 Haute Pierre (Châ-teauneuf-du-Pape). At only 10% Syrah, this

is quite different in composition from most of Delas’s wines. The rest is Grenache, and in 2009 the result is slightly pruny, with touches of coffee, chocolate and Christmas spice. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture without being soft, thanks to the crisp acids and silky tannins on the finish. Drink it over the next few years. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $46

89 Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Théodoric (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). A full-bodied wine

that shows some warm-vintage effects in its aromas and flavors of stewed prunes, mocha, leather and chocolate. It’s mouthfilling and a bit warm on the finish. Drink now–2017. Gabriel Meffre America. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $36

88 André Brunel 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Despite some tough tannins on the fin-

ish, this is an intriguingly complex wine that may prove even better than this rating suggests. It starts with a garrigue note and a hint of tapenade, then adds bright cherry fruit and plenty of dusty tannins. Drink 2014–2020. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $45

87 Domaine de Nalys 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is an immediately accessible Châ-

teauneuf-du-Pape, with moderately concentrated red fruit, leather and clove notes, crisp acids and just a hint of supple tannin on the finish. Drink it over the next sev-eral years. Frank-Lin International. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

87 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Otéliées (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This négociant

based in the Northern Rhône has turned out a meaty, savory Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s full bodied and firmly structured, with plenty of clove, leather and peppered beef. Drink 2014–2020. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $60

86 Domaine Patrice Magni 2009 Sensation (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Dominated by

Grenache, Magni’s 2009 Sensation displays distinctive notes of pie cherry, stewed rhubarb, watermelon and cracked pepper. Medium to full in the mouth, it boasts exceptionally silky tannins. Tart and peppery on the fin-ish but not at all unpleasant. Domaine Select Wine Es-tates. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $50

CORNAS

93 Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 La Louvée Syr-ah (Cornas). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14% Price: $84

93 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Barcillants (Cornas). This seems awfully civilized for Cor-

nas, with bold, clean blueberry fruit front and center, anchored by a framework of cedar and vanilla. This full-bodied, lush, creamy expression of Northern Rhône Syrah should drink well through 2025. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $50

91 Cave de Tain 2009 Areñes Sauvages (Cornas). As in many 2009s from the North-

ern Rhône, the Syrah fruit is superripe. Add in aging in 100% new oak barrels and the result is a big, richly tannic wine redolent of vanilla, cedar and blackberries. Drink now–2025. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

90 Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 Terres Brulées Syrah (Cornas). An excellent introduction to

the wines of Cornas, this is a gently structured example, but one that shows ample complexity. Coffee, herb and green olive notes intertwine with a smoky, bacon-like element. An espresso note and soft tannins linger on the finish. Drink now–2020. Palm Bay International. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

CÔTE RÔTIE

93 E. Guigal 2008 Château d’Ampuis (Côte Rôtie). In this difficult vintage, Guigal’s Châ-

teau Ampuis bottling shines. The kinky nose features exotic notes of celery seed, cracked pepper, hickory smoke and mixed berries, while in the mouth the wine shows ample fullness and intensity without losing any of the silky character that makes Côte Rôtie special. Drink now–2020. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $160

90 E. Guigal 2008 Brune et Blonde (Côte Rô-tie). Because of the extended elevage carried

out at Guigal, the company’s releases are always behind the market as a whole. Despite a tough vintage, this is an elegant, silky-textured wine, with complex notes of green olive, raspberry and cracked pepper. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

CÔTES DU RHÔNE

91 Domaine Patrice Magni 2010 La Cueil-lette (Côtes du Rhône). A terrific value,

Magni’s Côtes du Rhône comes from an area just out-side Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Coudoulet lieu dit. The blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah is full bodied and richly textured, with vibrant fruit flavors of dark berries and savory overtones. Its long, velvety finish suggests drinking now and over the next 5–8 years. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $20

91 Sélection Laurence Féraud 2011 Côtes du Rhône. This super bargain reflects the

charm of the 2011 vintage in its supple tannins and for-ward fruit. It’s lush and creamy textured, with expres-sive notes of kirsch, spice and cocoa. Drink now–2017. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

90 CDR 2010 Côtes du Rhône. A medium-bodied blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan,


this wine offers a supple feel and plenty of red berry and cherry fruit, with just enough spice to give it additional interest. Drink it over the next year or two. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $15

90 Cellier des Chartreux 2010 Chevalier d’Anthelme (Côtes du Rhône). This is an

impressive effort from a co-op in the Gard. Black olive, coffee and blackberry notes suggest a healthy propor-tion of Syrah in the blend. It’s a bit stern at first, but ends on a long, richly tannic note. Holiday Beverage. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

90 La Font du Vent 2009 Les Promesses (Côtes du Rhône). From the Gonnets of

Font de Michelle in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this is the family’s entry-level wine from an estate in the southern part of the Côtes du Rhône. The medium-bodied rasp-berry fruit is accented by hints of cracked pepper, dried spices and leather. It’s supple enough to drink now and over the next 4–5 years. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

90 Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Guy Louis (Côtes du Rhône). More Tardieu-Laurent than Côtes

du Rhône, with hallmark exotic, nearly tropical notes suggestive of toasted coconut, vanilla and apricot. It’s full bodied and plush in texture, with a long, cedary and velvety finish. Drink it over the next few years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

89 Ogier 2010 Heritages (Côtes du Rhône). A surprisingly strong effort from Ogier, this

is marked by dark, earthy notes of espresso, black ol-ives and blackberries. Drink this full-bodied, slightly chewy wine over the next few years. Imported by Clas-sic Wines of California and Vinum International. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Les Trois Couronnes 2011 Côtes du Rhône. Offering uncomplicated, easy drink-

ing, this Grenache-Syrah blend is lush and immediately accessible, displaying the charm of the 2011 vintage. Drink it over the next year or two for its gulpable cherry and chocolate flavors. The Other Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

86 André Brunel 2009 Côtes du Rhône. A slightly chunky and inelegant Côtes du Rhône,

this wine nevertheless delivers satisfying and assertive notes of black olive, espresso and dark chocolate. Drink it over the next few years. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Les Vignerons d’Estezargues 2010 Terre de Mistral (Côtes du Rhône). This intrigu-

ing blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Carignan com-bines crisp red-fruit flavors and lush, creamy tannins. There’s a slightly herbal tinge as well. Drink it over the next year or two. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

86 Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2009 Bastide de Beauvert (Côtes du Rhône). This smooth,

easygoing blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah is a pleasant surprise, offering up bright raspberry fruit and a hint of chocolaty richness. Drink it over the next year or so. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Parallèle 45 (Côtes du Rhône). This blend of 60% Gre-

nache and 40% Syrah is atypically big and burly in 2009, showing some intense coffee and charcoal notes layered over black cherry fruit. Dusty tannins mark the finish, so serve it alongside fatty meats where the tannins will work in the wine’s favor. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $14

86 Skalli 2009 Les Rabassières (Côtes du Rhône). A silky, medium-bodied selection, this

features elegant notes of cherries, fine leather and bak-ing spices. It’s a soft, easy-to-drink wine for immediate consumption. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Château du Trignon 2009 Côtes du Rhône. Tart and slightly herbal, with crisp red

fruit that never really fills out on the palate. It’s pleas-ant enough for an everyday quaff, just not particularly memorable. David Milligan Selections. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Domaine du Gros Pata 2009 Cuvée Sa-bine (Côtes du Rhône). This wine has won-

derfully perfumed aromas of cherries and raspberries, but seemingly stops there. The flavors are enjoyable but simple and while the mouthfeel is ample, the finish falls off a bit. P.R. Grisley Company. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Chateau Saint Nabor 2010 Tradition (Côtes du Rhône). This has a deeply flushed,

burgundy core. The reluctant nose shows graphite, game and pepper, with boysenberry and blackberry joining underbrush and cedar on the palate. The very average fruit concentration shows light dilution and leads to a short finish. Moderately drying tannins and lively acidity frame the supple body and will allow it to hold for at least two years though the wine will not likely evolve to benefit. Valley View Wine Sales. —W.E. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES

91 LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 GT-G Grand Terroir Grenache (Côtes du Rhône Vil-

lages). This wine starts off with vanilla, cinnamon and dark cherry notes on the nose, with the oak-derived ele-ments marrying nicely with the Grenache fruit. It’s full bodied, liquorous and lush, with a long, velvety finish. Probably best over the next 4–5 years. Hand Picked Se-lections. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $37

91 Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Signargues (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Morel, the gen-

eral manager at M. Chapoutier, also has his own label, which includes this very attractive wine from Sign-argues, the southernmost villages appellation of the Côte du Rhône. It’s full bodied and ripe without being flabby or unstructured, delivering blueberry and black-berry fruit, peppery spice and a long finish that rever-berates with fruit and an espresso note. Massanois Im-ports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 La Tine Visan (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Visan is a vil-

lage that can produce some ageworthy wines, and this looks to be in that same mold, with firm tannins framing blackberry and black olive flavors. Give it another year or two, then drink it over the next 5–6. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

90 Sélection Laurence Féraud 2009 Séguret (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Laurence

Féraud’s selections (her family owns Domaine de Pé-gaü in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) for her négociant line, like this Séguret, often represent excellent values. This is a full-bodied, velvety wine filled with notes of kirsch and Mexican chocolate. The finish is warm and comfort-ing, and like a thick blanket, it would be a welcome sight this winter. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

89 Boutinot 2009 La Côte Sauvage Cairanne (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Cairanne is said

to be in line to become the Rhône’s next cru, and this wine is a solid example. It artfully marries fruit and spice in a medium-bodied wine with suple tannins and suprisingly crisp acids. Drink now–2018. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $26

89 Laudun Chusclan 2010 Clos de Taman (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This has an im-

penetrable black core with fuschia highlights. The vi-brant, mineral-driven Old World nose has asphalt, char-coal and charred wood notes leading the way. Black currant, rhubarb, lingonberry and linden leaf carry the flavors. The dense, concentrated palate is taut—and slightly awkward—with marked acidity, mild viscosity and firm tannins. The prolonged finish is multidimen-sional and complex. This is a cuvée to follow as it shows plenty of potential. Drink now and for the next three years. —W.E. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 André Brunel 2009 Cuvée Sabrine (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Dark and intense, with

notes of roasted meat, plum and black olive that give way to an espresso note and chalky tannins on the finish. Pretty stern stuff, which just means you’ll want to give it another year or two before drinking it over the next 5–6 years. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 La Font du Vent 2009 Notre Passion Sig-nargues (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This

is atypically medium bodied for the warm 2009 vintage, with an admirable degree of lightness and drinkability.

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Tart berry fruit is accented by rose hips and orange zest, then finishes crisp and lingering. Drink it over the next several years. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $16

88 LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 GT-S Grand Terroir Syrah (Côtes du Rhône Villages).

Full bodied and thickly textured, this Southern Rhône Syrah combines cedar and vanilla notes from oak ag-ing with notes of brandied cherries and a bit of asphalt. It’s long on the finish, with a plush feel, then ends on a slightly bitter note. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $50

88 Perrin & Fils 2009 L’Andéol Rasteau (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Starts with

raspberry and cherry aromas and a dusty, earthy note that adds complexity and character. You can sense the warmth of the vintage in the glass, with slightly raisined notes that come through on the palate alongside the supple tannins. Drink it over the next few years. Vine-yard Brands. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2009 La Réserve du Crouzau St. Gervais (Côtes du Rhône

Villages). A solid, medium-bodied effort, this Saint Gervais boasts fine complexity on the nose, where it mixes berries with smoke and olive before turning dark-er on the palate, finally ending with hints of bitter choc-olate and espresso. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

CROZES-HERMITAGE

92 Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Crozes-Her-mitage. For full review see page 6. Editors’

Choice. abv: 13% Price: $36

92 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de Thalabert (Crozes-Hermitage). Despite

this wine’s thick veneer of toasty, vanilla-scented oak, it has plenty of underlying fruit, powerful enough to han-dle the wood. It’s full bodied, dense and richly textured, with a long, velvety finish redolent of blackberries and cedar. Approachable now, but should easily age through 2025. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selec-tion. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Dauvergne & Ranvier 2009 Vin Rare (Crozes-Hermitage). This selection shows

pure black-cherry fruit on the nose, then it folds in hints of flowers, spices, chocolate and coffee on the palate. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture without being heavy, then finishes long. Ready to drink, but should easily hold another 5–6 years. The Sorting Table. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

91 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Palignons (Crozes-Hermitage). This is Les Vins de

Vienne’s upscale Crozes, and it’s very successful in 2009, featuring bold, concentrated blackberry fruit supported by hints of vanilla and toast. It’s full bodied and richly

textured, with a long, layered finish. Drink now–2020. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

91 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de Roure (Crozes-Hermitage). If the oak inte-

grates better and recedes more into the fruit than I sus-pect, this rating will look conservative. Right now, oak is front and center, arrayed in ranks of toasted cedar and vanilla. It’s full bodied and chewy in texture, with a long, plushly oaky finish. Try after 2015. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $80

90 Vidal-Fleury 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. This is nicely floral on the nose, with black cherry

fruit accented by hints of thyme and bay leaf, while the flavors are a harmonious mélange of herb, spice and ripe fruit. It’s full bodied and slightly chewy at first, turning more velvety on the finish. Drink now–2017. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $23

89 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Crozes-Hermit-age. This supple, medium-bodied wine packs

in many of the notes that make Syrah from the Northern Rhône so compelling: coffee, tar, leather, black olive, chocolate and roasted meat, all backed by raspberry-cherry fruit. Enjoy the ride over the next several years. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $26

87 Cave de Tain 2009 Fine Fleur de Crozes (Crozes-Hermitage). Shows pleasant North-

ern Rhône Syrah notes of raspberry and cherry, even if it’s not particularly textured or complex. The fruit is crisp and forward, with sufficient tannins to ably part-ner burgers or steaks. Drink it over the next few years. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

GIGONDAS

90 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Pimpi-gnoles (Gigondas). This wine has plenty to

offer, from brightly fruity and peppery aromas to flavors of cherry, leather amd spice. The tannins are silky in tex-ture, and the lengthy finish develops hints of cocoa and clove. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $40

89 M. Chapoutier 2010 Gigondas. Full bodied and densely packed, this is a solid, cellar-worthy

Gigondas that needs time to unfold. Right now, the aro-mas are slightly reticent, the chocolate and plum notes only slowly unfurling on the palate. Try 2014–2020. Ter-lato Wines International. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $50

88 Les Trois Couronnes 2010 Gigondas. A fresh, appealing example of Gigondas, with

mouth-watering cherry fruit that’s blissfully uncompli-cated yet satisfying for its verve and intensity. A hint of cocoa sneaks in on the finish. Drink it over the next few years. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $23

87 Perrin & Fils 2009 La Gille (Gigondas). An odd, menthol note runs through this wine, giv-

ing the bright cherry fruit a slightly medicinal edge. It’s slightly creamy in texture, with a hint of chocolate on the warm finish. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

86 Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Gigondas. A bulky wine with an ample mix of cherry and

chocolate flavors, this Gigondas is a big, fairly rich mouthful but is slightly lacking for nuance. Give it an-other year or two to see if more develops. Massanois Imports. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

HERMITAGE

93 Cave de Tain 2009 Gambert de Loche (Hermitage). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14% Price: $90

92 E. Guigal 2006 Hermitage. This is the cur-rent release from Guigal, which makes it one

of the few Hermitages on store shelves that’s ready to drink. It’s medium to full in weight, chunky and asser-tive, but not overly concentrated or tannic. Instead, it delivers beefy notes of coffee, black olive and spice, backed by hints of raspberries and cedar. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $90

SAINT-JOSEPH

90 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Archevêques (Saint-Joseph). This négociant’s top cuvée of

Saint-Joseph has vibrant mixed berry notes that pick up lovely hints of licorice and garrigue, then turn choco-laty and velvety on the finish. Nicely done all the way around, with a drinking window extending from now through 2017. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

89 La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2009 Saint-Joseph. A very drinkable Saint-Joseph, with

bouncy, bright berry character and hints of smoke and asphalt. It’s medium bodied and crisp, with only a touch of silky-textured tannin. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

88 Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Saint-Joseph. This négociant bottling delivers reasonably

fresh fruit and plenty of ripe raspberry flavor. It’s me-dium to full in body, with supple tannins that make it easy to drink now. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $36

86 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 L’Arzelle (Saint-Joseph). A solid example of Saint-Joseph, with

dark notes of asphalt and black olive playing alongside modest berry flavors. It’s medium bodied and smooth in texture, with a mouth-watering finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

85 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Saint-Joseph. Round and silky, this is a medium-bodied Saint-


Joseph intended for early enjoyment. Blackberry and dusty earth shadings mingle easily on the palate, fading just a bit quickly on the finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $28

VACQUEYRAS

90 Vignobles La Coterie 2010 Vacqueyras. Full-bodied and muscular without being over-

blown, this wine showcases slightly lifted, plummy fruit, accented by licorice and black pepper. It’s a bit warm on the finish but spicy and nuanced as well. Drink now–2020. Cordon Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $20

89 Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Barthélémy (Vacqueyras). For a Vacqueyras, this is rather

charming and supple, with slightly jammy black-cher-ry notes balanced by mouth-watering acidity. Hints of leather and anise add a welcome note of complexity. Drink it over the next few years. Gabriel Meffre Amer-ica. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $22

88 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 La Sillote (Vac-queyras). Combine prune, leather and spice

notes with firm tannins and the result is a slightly rustic, old-school expression of Vacqueyras. It’s concentrated and characterful, with up to a decade of aging potential. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $37

87 Andrieux & Fils 2010 Cuvée André Vie-illes Vignes (Vacqueyras). Buoyed by pleas-

ant black-plum fruit and healthy doses of licorice and peppery spice, this sturdy, medium-bodied wine may lack a little charm but ticks all the other boxes, ending long and balanced. Drink now–2018. Vinum Distribu-tion Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

86 Les Trois Couronnes 2010 (Vacqueyras). Modest leather, spice and black plum notes lead

into a wine that’s plump and dark fruited, not especially complex, but mouthfilling. The acids seem a touch low, so consume this soft, charming wine over the next few years. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $18

OTHER RED WINES

93 Chêne Bleu 2006 Abélard (Vin de Pays de Vaucluse). From a new winery that’s bottle-

aging its wines prior to release, this is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Because the vineyards straddle multiple appellations, it carries a modest Vin de Pays de Vaucluse label, but this is serious stuff. It’s dense and creamy in texture, with a long, velvety fin-ish and flavors of chocolate, black olive and dark plum. Drink now–2020. Margerum Wine Co. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $100

91 Chêne Bleu 2006 Héloïse (Vin de Pays de Vaucluse). The blend of this Chêne Bleu

wine is 65% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 5% Viognier, and with its elevated proportion of Syrah come bacony,

mocha and olivaceous components reminiscent of the Northern Rhône. It’s full bodied, warm and velvety, with a long finish filled with chocolaty richness. Ready to drink. Margerum Wine Co. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $100

91 Guillaume Gros 2009 El Niño Loco (Vin de Pays de la Méditerranée). The blend is

70% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 10% Carignan, and in 2009 the grapes were as ripe as they could be. Mocha and chocolate notes pick up a touch of prune. With its superripe fruit, ample weight, lush texture and warm finish, there are valid concerns about its ageability, but this offers hedonistic drinking for an affordable price. Sherbrooke Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

89 Bourgeois Family 2009 Elicio Merlot-Gr-enache (Vin de Pays de la Méditerranée).

For full review see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

OTHER FRANCE

LANGUEDOC WHITES

90 Domaine de Malavieille 2010 Charmille (Pays d’Oc). This is straw colored with a

bright hue. Passion fruit, guava, honey, hazelnut and glue surface on the moderately aromatic nose. Crisp de-spite its full-bodied palate, the wine’s alcohol is gener-ous but well-balanced. The attack is resolutely dry and creates a pleasant and lightly rugged texture across the midpalate. The medium finish has well-concentrated fruit and a hazelnut undertone, suggesting a fine effort. Hand Picked Selections. —W.E. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

88 Les Caves Richemer 2011 Terre et Mer Terret Blanc (Vin de Pays des Côtes de

Thau). The restrained nose shows a faint floral charac-ter accompanied by notes of lemon cream and mineral. The palate hesitantly opens up a bit more with flavors of peach skin, lemon icebox pie and whipping cream. Decidedly medium in weight, this has medium-concen-trated fruit and a rather linear palate. The moderate, refreshing acidity leads to a fairly short finish. Drink this now and for two years, as it should be appreciated while still youthful. AHD Vintners. —W.E. abv: 12% Price: $NA

84 Vignobles Garrigae 2010 Seigneurie de Peyrat Tradition Chardonnay-Viogni-

er (Pays d’Oc). Vanilla and toasted almond aromas evolve into a scent of tarte tatin. Full bodied, with warm alcohol, this shows medium fruit concentration. The acidity is borderline in its balance, leaning to flabiness. The tactile heat on the medium finish is distracting. Pal-ateur Imports. —W.E. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

OTHER WHITE WINES

90 Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Taburnum Viog-nier (Vin de France). This full-bodied, lush-

ly textured wine is 100% Viognier. Despite being aged

nearly a year and a half in French oak, it retains a pep-pery aroma of nasturtium blossom along with toast and honey notes. Toasted nuts figure prominently on the palate, with just enough fruit weight to support the oak, while a touch of honey lingers on the finish. Drink now. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

86 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa Grand Cap (Vin de France). Made from a typical Gascon

blend of Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Man-seng, this zesty wine is dry, herbaceous, fresh and crisp. Its full of citrus and green apple fruits, with a tangy fin-ish. Screwcap. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Part-ners. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $10

85 Guy Saget 2011 La Petite Perrière Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Vin de France). This is refresh-

ing, with herbaceous hints as well as a warm yellow-fruit character. It’s ripe, full of youthful fruitiness and ready to drink. Screwcap. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

85 L. Tramier et Fils 2011 Bourricot Char-donnay (Vin de France). Fresh and fruity

with creamy green and white fruits, this is a soft, ready to drink Chardonnay. Attractively fruity, the acidity fine-ly cuts through the wine. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11

ROSÉS

86 L. Tramier et Fils NV Bourricot Rosé (Vin de France). For full review see page 12. Best

Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa La Vie en Rosé (Vin de France). This is a crisply fruity

dry rosé from the vineyards of Fronton. It has raspberry and citrus flavors and refreshing acidity. The finish is light and fresh. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Part-ners. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

LANGUEDOC REDS

93 Prieuré St. Jean de Bébian 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc. Open and primal on nose, this

has notes of game, roasted meat, lead pencil, green bell pepper and blackberry. It offers succulent fruit on the midpalate, accompanied by generous viscosity and oak. The wine sits broadly across the palate with significant heft, chewy tannins and moderate acidity. The harmony of flavors and structure lingers onto the lengthy finish. Wine Worldwide. —W.E. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

91 Vignobles Sarrail 2011 Domaine L’Estagnère (Vin de Pays Cité de Carcas-

sonne). Aromas of mulberry, boysenberry, underbrush and dried lavendar lead to notes of black currant, dried herb and crushed granite on the palate. It possesses a smooth mouthfeel with succulent glycerol, balancing acidity and lightly grainy tannins. Moderate in length, with savory and mineral qualities lingering, this will

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evolve over the next 2–3 years and may hold longer. JF Wine Imports. —W.E. abv: 14% Price: $NA

90 Château Saint Baulery 2010 Saint-Chini-an. The nose is loaded with mineral, pencil lead

and blackberry notes. Generously juicy on the palate, this exudes youthful fruit backed by terroir-influenced notes. The tannins are structured and lightly sinewy yet soft all at once. The acidity is fresh, carrying the well-concentrated flavors of this chunky wine into a medium finish. This is a decidedly Old World in style, with evi-dent fruit purity and provenance of place. Drink now and for three more years. Hand Picked Selections. —W.E. abv: 14% Price: $14

90 Domaine Modat 2009 Sans Plus Atten-dre (Côtes du Roussillon Villages Cara-

many). This has a somewhat high-toned and mineral-driven nose, offering notes of roasted squab and pheas-ant, sage and mocha ice cream. Spirituous alcohol and opulent fruit are the focus of the highly extracted palate. The acidity is present but relegated to the background, while the rather supple, mouth-coating tannins pro-vide most of the wine’s structure. The new oak is subtle. Drink now and for four more years. Romano Brands. —W.E. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

89 Domain La Tour Penedesses 2010 Les Volcans (Coteaux du Languedoc-Péze-

nas). The youthful nose is primed with black currant, blueberry, earth and licorice. Generous and supple on the palate with restrained acidity, the tannins show some sinew, yet they are well-integrated. It’s fullbodied, with slightly spirituous alcohol, however, the excellent concentration on the palate can support this. Overall, the wine is well knit, including its inflections of baked cobbler and vanilla bean from the oak aging. Drink now and for five more years. Dionysos Imports Inc. —W.E. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Les Deux Rives 2010 Rouge (Corbières). The bright nose leads with aromas of crushed

granite, damp forest floor and baked boysenberry cob-bler drizzled with cassis liqueur. This is medium-bod-ied, with integrated alcohol and very little glycerol. This robust red has focused acidity and pleasantly tugging, broad tannins. Squeaky-clean fruit and smart winemak-ing make this a curiously rambunctious yet polished wine. Pasternak Wine Imports. Best Buy. —W.E. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Domaine Combe Blanche 2009 La Chan-delière (Minervois La Liviniere). The nose

has subtle notes of game, iodine, lavender and blackber-ry, which follow through oto the palate. Suave and sup-ple tannins pair with medium acidity and evident glyc-erol, making this an easy-drinking red. It has integrated yet high alcohol, and the short finish points to a drinking window of two years. Roberts Fine Wines. —W.E. abv: 15% Price: $NA

85 G. Moulinier 2007 Les Sigillaires (Saint-Chinian). Notes of crushed leaves, leather and

tobacco leaves on the overt nose indicate the first signs

of evolution, with aromas of mulberry, black cherry and black raspberry also evident. Full bodied with balanced alcohol and lightly dusty tannins, the wine overcom-pensates in structure with its lightly tart acidity. Already evolving, this will drink now and up to 2–3 years longer. Laurel Importers. —W.E. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

83 Les Celliers Jean d’Alibert 2010 Domaine de l’Estagnol (Minervois). Milk chocolate,

mocha, garrigue and mineral notes contribute to the fragrant nose. Full bodied with pronounced alcohol, the wine is surprisingly lacking in concentation on the mid-palate. The tannins are round and easy, and the acidity is supporting, finishing short. Laville Imports. —W.E. abv: 13% Price: $NA

83 Moulin de Lène 2010 Alphonse (Côtes de Thongue). The fresh but restrained nose

shows notes of pencil lead, damp earth, roasted game and prune. The flavors follow suit but evidence fatigue rather than freshness on the palate. The medium body pivots around the wine’s marked acidity and dusty tan-nins. Cannon Wines Limited. —W.E. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

82 Moulin de Lène 2010 Romanus (Côtes de Thongue). The closed nose slips by a sun-

baked blueberry character, with notes of garrigue, min-eral and cherry cough syrup. Ribena candy, black lico-rice and evergreen surface on the palate. It has fleshy, fresh fruit, with finessed but somewhat coarse tannins and pronounced but reasonable alcohol. Cannon Wines Limited. —W.E. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

OTHER RED WINES

84 Barton & Guestier 2011 Bistro Pinot Noir (Ile de Beauté). Soft and fruity with some

sweetness, this red-fruit-flavored wine is rounded and warm, crispened by acidity. Barton & Guestier USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $8

84 L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Bourricot Pinot Noir (Vin de France). This is a soft, gentle

Pinot with a plum jelly flavor derived from a touch of sweetness in its fruit. Drink now. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

TUSCANY

WHITE WINES

92 Monteverro 2009 Monteverro Chardon-nay (Toscana). This creamy Tuscan Chardon-

nay shares many characteristics with its distant cousin in California. It shows a decidedly New World style, with aromas of vanilla cream, dried apricot, honey, peach cobbler and crème brûlée. The finish is marked with a spicy toasted-oak intensity. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $120

90 Castello Banfi 2011 Fontanelle Chardon-nay (Toscana). Castello Banfi in Tuscany does

a great job with Chardonnay, as evidenced by this wine. It’s rich and soft, with bright aromas of peach, citrus, vanilla and savory herb. A pinch of acidity on the finish works beautifully as well. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

88 Diadema 2011 D’Amare (Toscana). D’Amare is a rich blend of Chardonnay and

Viognier, offering a thick, viscous mouthfeel and bright notes of apricot, pear, pineapple and exotic fruit. It shows fine density and a creamy finish. Superior Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $50

88 Fattoria Lavacchio 2010 Pachàr (Tos-cana). Pachàr is a blend of organically farmed

Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon that offers bright aromas of citrus, peach, pineapple and blanched al-mond. Pair this pretty wine with rice-stuffed zucchini or tomatoes. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Monteverro 2011 Il Nostro Vermentino (Toscana). Very crisp, clean and polished, this

is an easy white wine to enjoy with friends and grilled fish. It’s redolent of cut grass, citrus, peach and white almond. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Rocca di Montemassi 2011 Astraio Viog-nier (Maremma). Hats off to the Zonin fam-

ily for being among the first to offer a Viognier from southern Tuscany. This shows the thick viscosity that is characteristic of the variety, with floral notes of violets and lemon blossoms. There’s a dusty touch of mineral or brimstone on the finish. Zonin USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Sada 2011 Vermentino (Toscana). Hand-some in packaging and content, this fresh Ver-

mentino shows wonderful lightness, with notes of hon-ey, yellow rose, stone fruit, pear and dried hay. Pure honey is the primary flavor on the finish. ID Beverage Group. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $22

87 Banfi 2011 Centine Bianco (Toscana). This Tuscan blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Char-

donnay and Pinot Grigio opens with crisp, almost tart, tones of citrus, exotic fruit and honeydew. The wine shows substance in the mouth and enough heft to pair with tuna or chicken salad. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo White (Tos-cana). A great value wine, this blend of Char-

donnay, Grechetto and Sauvignon shows easy freshness and bright aromas of stone fruit, lemon zest, honeydew and peach. Opici Wines. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Castello Banfi 2011 San Angelo Pinot Grigio (Toscana). Pinot Grigio enthusiasts

will love this citrusy expression from Tuscany. There’s just enough warm-climate ripeness here to give the wine a full, creamy feel on the finish, yet the bouquet


is all about freshness; notes of lemon-lime, melon and white peach are prominent. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Castello d’Albola 2011 Poggio alle Fate Chardonnay (Toscana). From one of the

most beautiful estates in Radda-in-Chianti, this pretty Chardonnay offers layers of ripe peach, apricot, vanilla cream and spice. Zonin USA. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Col d’Orcia 2011 Pinot Grigio (Sant’Antimo). From the Sant’Antimo appel-

lation in southern Tuscany (near Montalcino), this zesty Pinot Grigio shows the richness and fullness you usually find in Tuscan whites. Generous tones of melon, yellow rose and apricot are followed by bright acidity. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Fattoria Lavacchio 2011 Bianco del Mu-lino (Toscana). Made with organically farmed

Trebbiano and Traminer Aromatico, this offers floral aromas and fragrant fruit tones, with nice crispness and medium intensity. Pair this with fried shrimp or spicy Thai food. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Fattoria Le Pupille 2011 Poggio Argen-tato (Toscana). This is a memorable blend

of Sauvignon and Traminer that opens with the bright, floral aromas associated with these fragrant variet-ies. It’s light, crisp and lively, with a zesty, clean finish. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 La Calonica 2011 Don Giovanni Sauvi-gnon (Cortona). Don Giovanni seduces with

bright aromas of Granny Smith apple, citrus, kiwi and exotic fruit. There’s a touch of soft sweetness in the mouth, with bright fruit flavors on the finish. Panebi-anco. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 La Corsa 2011 Dueluglio Vermentino (Tos cana). Made near the coastal town of Or-

betello in Tuscany, this bright white opens with tones of citrus, stone fruit, cut grass and crushed almond. There’s a pretty dry note that recalls the sea salt and the shoreside breezes of the Mediterranean. Colline d’Italia. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Pieve Vecchia 2011 Campo del Noce Ver-mentino (Montecucco). Aged in stainless

steel to maintain its freshness and fruitiness, this bright Vermentino opens with zesty tones of lime, grapefruit, dried sage and Golden Delicious apple. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Occhio a Vento Vermentino (Maremma). Occhio a Vento,

which means “eye to the wind,” is an affordable, easy-drinking Vermentino that shows very crisp aromas of cut grass, kiwi, citrus, green apple and peach. There’s

a nice touch of mineral dryness on the finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 La Selva 2011 Vermentino (Maremma). Made with organically farmed grapes, this vino

naturale opens with bright aromas of citrus, hay, cut grass and grapefruit. The wine shows a lean, compact feel in the mouth, with bright acidity on the finish. Euro Fine Wines. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Pieve Vecchia 2011 Le Zere (Maremma). A fresh blend of Fiano and Chardonnay, Le

Zere is redolent of lemon zest, pineapple, Golden De-licious apple and even a touch of banana. It’s a perfect match to barbecued shrimp. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Tamburini 2011 Il Castelluccio (Toscana). Il Castelluccio is a blend of Trebbiano and Mal-

vasia, bearing fragrant aromas of lemon blossom, grape-fruit and exotic fruit. The wine feels thick and sticky on the palate, with a soft, chewy finish. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

85 Banfi 2011 Le Rime White (Toscana). Le Rime is a very simple blend of Chardonnay and

Pinot Grigio that would go down nicely with tuna sal-ad or grilled vegetables. Lean and compact, it offers bright citrus, pear and stone fruit aromas. Banfi Vint-ners. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Banfi 2010 Le Rime Pinot Grigio (Tos-cana). Food friendly, informal and bright, this

easy-drinking Pinot Grigio opens with bright citrus, stone fruit and melon. There’s a touch of white almond paste on the close that recalls the warm Tuscan sun-shine. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA

85 Principe Corsini - Fattoria Le Corti 2011 Vermentino della Costa (Maremma).

Packaged with an appropriate nautical theme, this bright Vermentino from coastal Tuscany offers easy aro-mas of citrus, peach, pear and grapefruit. There’s a crisp touch of spice and dried sage on the close. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $NA

85 Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Vernaccia di San Gimignano. This is the kind of easy Italian

white that would taste delicious at an outdoor barbecue or on a hot afternoon. The wine is light, lean and loaded with fresh citrus flavors. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Tommasi 2011 Poggio al Tufo Vermenti-no (Maremma). Easy, fresh and simple, this

opens with aromas of dried hay, stone fruit and hon-ey, offering a thick, creamy feel on the palate. There’s a touch of fruit on the close. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

ROSÉS

88 Fattoria Le Pupille 2011 RosaMati Rosé (Maremma). A beautiful blend of Sangiovese

and Syrah, this delivers structure and power wrapped within delicate notes of wild berry, bitter almond, dried blueberry and chopped herb. The close is thickly struc-tured and fresh. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo Rosé (Tos-cana). A whole new generation of Italian rosé

is finally gaining the attention it deserves. This is an ex-ceptionally fresh and clean wine that would pair with smoked salmon, fish carpaccio or insalata di mare. Opi-ci Wines. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

86 Banfi 2011 Centine Rosé (Toscana). This opens with a light pink color, exhibiting lively

aromas of raspberry, cranberry and pink grapefruit. The wine is slender and easy on the finish, with a final zesty-citrus blast. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

CHIANTI CLASSICO

92 Mazzei 2007 Ser Lapo Riserva (Chianti Classico). This is a full and generous wine

(90% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot) that lavishes on rich layers of red cherry, soft chocolate, tobacco and spice. You taste the pureness of the black fruit in the mouth and are treated to a rich, velvety finish. Palm Bay Inter-national. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

92 Ruffino 2007 Riserva Ducale Oro (Chi-anti Classico). This special commemorative

bottle celebrates the 60th anniversary (1947–2007) of one of Italy’s flagship wines. The characteristic aromas of Sangiovese come through loud and clear in the form of bright pulses of wild berry, blue flower, light spice and dried tobacco. The wine is bright and tight on the finish. Hold this bottle in your cellar. Icon Estates. Cel-lar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

91 Castelli del Grevepesa 2008 Castello di Bibbione Riserva (Chianti Classico). Op-

ulent and rich, this expression of Sangiovese shows a dark, inky color, with plush aromas of black fruit, choco-late, spice, leather, pipe tobacco and roasted espresso bean. The mouthfeel is dense and creamy, and the wine boasts very pleasurable qualities. Duggan’s Distillers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

91 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Riserva di Fiz-zano (Chianti Classico). Made in a very re-

spectable Chianti Classico style, the wine delivers fresh-ness, with tart berry notes and a bright, streamlined feel. Medallions of veal, grilled sausage or roast chicken would all pair nicely with this Sangiovese-based wine (with small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot). Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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91 Rocca delle Macìe 2007 Riserva di Fiz-zano (Chianti Classico). Riserva di Fizzano

is always an impressive wine, and the 2007 vintage has produced an especially generous, soft and rich bottling. It delivers aromas of bright cherry, soft spice, chocolate, pipe tobacco and a pretty flower accent at the back. It would pair with pork roasted with fennel seed and gar-lic. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

90 Castelli del Grevepesa 2008 Clemente VII Riserva (Chianti Classico). This opens

with characteristic aromas of wild berry, wet earth, white truffle and roasted coffee bean. It feels rich and concentrated in the mouth, but never heavy or sticky. Duggan’s Distillers . —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

90 Castelli del Grevepesa 2007 Panzano (Chianti Classico). Panzano is one of the

most prestigious subzones in Chianti Classico, and this bright wine does a great job of showing true Tuscan characteristics. Sangiovese’s trademark freshness is evi-dent here as are its characteristic aromas of wild ber-ry, cherry, leather and cured meat. Duggan’s Distillers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

90 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Riserva Famiglia Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). This Chi-

anti Classico Riserva has deep layers of spice, choco-late, wild berry, cherry, licorice and black pepper. The mouthfeel is smooth, long and fresh. Palm Bay Interna-tional. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $24

90 Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva di Fiz-zano (Chianti Classico). For full review see

page 9. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva Famiglia Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). Sangiovese is

enhanced with tiny percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create a fresh, balanced wine, with aro-mas of red fruit and savory spice. The mouthfeel is soft and rich with good structure and fullness. Palm Bay In-ternational. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $24

89 Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Tenuta Sant’Alfonso (Chianti Classico). What sets

this wine apart is the elegant intensity that distinguish-es the bouquet. Notes of wild berries, coffee, leather, wet earth and pressed violets appear throughout. In the mouth, it has crisp cherry tones and bright acidity. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22

89 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Tenuta Sant’Alfonso (Chianti Classico). This is a

pure expression of Sangiovese. The grapes clearly ben-efited from the strong Tuscan sun, lending the wine a soft, velvety feel, with balanced acidity and freshness. Careful oak aging adds spice and richness. Palm Bay In-ternational. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $22

88 Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Famiglia Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). A classic pasta

wine (probably best with fettuccine in meat sauce), this Chianti Classico offers bright acidity and a bouquet red-olent of wild berries, cherries, leather and subtle spices. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

88 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Famiglia Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). Youthful and

bright, this shows the lean, bright side of the Fami-glia Zingarelli line. You can really taste those Sangio-vese characteristics thanks to lively tones of wild berry, raspberry, blue flower, wild mushroom and subtle spice. That zesty acidity makes the wine perfect for cheesy pasta or lasagna. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Carpineto 2010 Chianti Classico. Execut-ed in a streamlined and traditional fashion, this

ruby-colored wine shows tart acidity and bright fruit fla-vors of wild berry and blueberry. Medium bodied, this would pair beautifully with lamb or pork chops. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18

87 Castelli del Grevepesa 2009 Clemente VII (Chianti Classico). Dark and savory, this

has spicy aromas of clove, cinnamon, prune and red currant. It shows freshness and medium density overall. Duggan’s Distillers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Straccali 2010 Chianti Classico. Enhanced with tiny percentages of Merlot and Canaiolo,

this Sangiovese-dominant wine shows sweet cherry and blueberry aromas, with pretty accents of exotic spice and toasted almond. Pair this with fried chicken or cotoletta alla Milanese. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

CHIANTI

85 Piccini 2011 Chianti. For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Piccini 2010 Chianti. Piccini shows confi-dence and consistency with this best-selling

value wine. Easy aromas of wild berry, blue violet and moist earth reveal its Tuscan soul. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

85 Straccali 2011 Chianti. Easy, slender and fresh, this bright Chianti (85% Sangiovese with

Merlot) reveals green notes of olive and herb followed by wild berry and spice. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

85 Straccali 2010 Chianti. This blend of San-giovese and Canaiolo is enhanced with a small

percentage of Merlot. That addition heightens the wine’s softness and renders a richer mouthfeel. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $13

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

94 Biondi-Santi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Biondi-Santi performs excep-

tionally well in elegant vintages like 2006. This wine is balanced and fresh, with lingering notes of wild berry, white cherry, cola, spice and dark chocolate. Age this wine 10 years or more. Vision Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $900

93 Biondi-Santi 2007 Brunello di Montal-cino. An iconic wine of Italy and deservedly so,

Biondi-Santi captures the spirit of the 2007 vintage with his clear fruit interpretations of red cherry, blackberry and cassis. The wine shows power, structure and fresh acidity that drives the long finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $180

93 Querceta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Mon-talcino). Compared to its basic Brunello,

Querceta ups the ante with this Riserva in terms of in-tensity and overall power. Bold notes of cherry, spice and leather make an appearance in this fresh and firmly structured offering. Novo Mexican Spirits. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $62

92 Pietroso 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. This ruby-colored Brunello opens with notes

of fresh fruit, forest floor, cedar wood, exotic spice and blackberry preserves. It shows a bright berry mouthfeel, with cherry intensity and a clean, fresh finish. Enotria Wine Import. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

92 Querceta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Querceta delivers a beautiful Brunello with

bold tones of ripe fruit, red cherry, spice, leather and vanilla bean. This bold red offers both structure and fresh acidity on the finish. Novo Mexican Spirits. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $34

90 Domus Vitae 2007 Brunello di Montal-cino. The 2007 vintage in Montalcino has

produced beautifully rich and balanced wines. This pretty expression boats aromas of wild berry, dried gin-ger, leather, tobacco and a touch of espresso. There’s a bright point of acidity on the close followed by a firm tannic structure. Superior Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

MAREMMA

88 Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Cabernet Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Tomma-

si is a celebrated producer based in Valpolicella, but in recent years the family has invested heavily in Marem-ma, Tuscany, to produce a solid line of value-driven wines from the region. This shows the darkness and ripeness of this sunny region backed by Cabernet Sau-vignon’s structure. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Tommasi 2010 Poggio al Tufo Cabernet Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Here’s a


no-fuss Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany that delivers layers of black cherry, spice, leather and dried tobacco. The intensity is measured and the mouthfeel is medium in intensity, but the general ease and approach is what sets this wine apart. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Tommasi 2010 Poggio al Tufo Rompi-collo (Maremma Toscana). A bright and

easy blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, this would taste great with grilled sausage or barbecued chicken. A vein of fresh acidity is followed by notes of black cherry, dried raspberry and mild spice. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Alicante (Maremma Toscana). Notes of dried euca-

lyptus leaf, sage, savory spice and wild berry give this Tuscan red a very unique aromatic profile. The spicy notes continue onto the palate, showing structure and length. Made from 100% Alicante Bouschet. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $24

87 Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo (Maremma Toscana). This blend of Sangio-

vese and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with slightly green accents of bay leaf and dried sage followed by black fruit, cherry and tobacco. The mouthfeel is smooth and simple. Pair it with easy meat dishes or aged cheese. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Tommasi 2008 Poggio al Tufo Alicante (Maremma Toscana). Velvety aromas of ripe

fruit, dried herb and cured meat give this Alicante a sa-vory, spicy feel. The wine delivers medium body and intensity and would pair with meatloaf or white meat. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $24

TOSCANA

93 Tenuta di Biserno 2007 Il Pino di Biserno (Toscana). For full review see page 5. Cellar

Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

92 Castellare di Castellina 2007 Coniale (Tos cana). Coniale is a pure expression of

Cabernet Sauvignon, bearing classy Tuscan character-istics of blackberry, dried Mediterranean brush, rose-mary, chocolate, leather and tobacco, with a touch of black olive in the background. The mouthfeel is rich, persistent and soft. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

92 Petra 2008 Petra (Toscana). From one of Italy’s most important showcase designer winer-

ies, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot lives up to its super Tuscan celebrity. It is gently redolent of dark chocolate, ripe fruit, leather, tobacco and crushed black pepper—the bouquet’s elegant moderation is one of its strongest points. The mouthfeel is rich, creamy

and long. Drink after 2018. Terra Moretti Trading. Cel-lar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

92 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Roccato (Tos-cana). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.5% Price: $60

92 Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Ser Gioveto (To-scana). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14% Price: $50

91 Castello Banfi 2009 Cum Laude (Tos-cana). This blend of Cabernet, Merlot and

Syrah shows a decadently soft side thanks to its aromas of black cherry, tobacco, chocolate and subtle spice. It delivers density and substance on the finish and would pair with pasta and creamy porcini sauce. Banfi Vint-ners. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

91 Piccini 2007 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 14% Price: $22

91 Renieri 2007 Regina di Renieri (Toscana). This is a pure expression of Syrah that shows

rich aromas of ripe fruit, leather, tobacco, crushed black pepper and blackberry. The finish is long and smooth. Pair this with steak in a creamy green-pepper sauce. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Ser Gioveto (To-scana). Ser Gioveto is 80% Sangiovese with

small additions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It has a deeply saturated ruby color and compelling aro-mas of ripe fruit, strawberry, rum cake and soft spice. There’s a jammy accent in the bouquet that gives mo-mentum to its rich, velvety mouthfeel. Palm Bay Inter-national. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Ruffino 2008 Modus (Toscana). Modus de-livers velvety aromas of black cherry, chocolate,

leather, exotic spice and pipe tobacco. This super Tus-can blend is comprised of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvi-gnon and Merlot, and it does a very nice job of showing the soft side of those grape varieties, especially on the long finish. Icon Estates. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90 Castelli del Grevepesa 2007 Clemente VII Settimo (Toscana). A blend of Sangio-

vese, Merlot and Syrah, this opens with plush layers of black fruit, tobacco, chocolate and crushed black pep-per. Full, ripe and modern, this has lingering notes of exotic spice and toasted nut on the finish. Duggan’s Dis-tillers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 I Giusti e Zanza 2009 Nemorino (Tos-cana). Dark in color and slightly bashful at

first, this blend of Syrah, Sangiovese and Merlot shows strength in its solid structure, with bright aromas of red cherry, blackberry, leather and cured meat. It would

pair perfectly with stewed game meat, like wild boar. Vindagra USA. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $27

87 Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Rubizzo (Tos-cana). A blend of Sangiovese and a tiny per-

cent of Merlot, this opens with concentrated fruit and warm climate aromas of blackberry jam and cherry preserves. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $14

OTHER RED WINES

92 Carpineto 2006 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Carpineto’s Vino Nobile

Riserva is almost too much of a good thing with its rich density, bold intensity and big aromas of ripe blackber-ry, leather, exotic spice and tobacco. It has smooth tex-ture and polished tannins as well. Age 10 years or more. Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

88 Querceta 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This pretty Rosso offers sweet berry and raspber-

ry aromas, with slight touches of toasted almond and spice. The finish is fresh and crisp. Novo Mexican Spir-its. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

87 Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Campomac-cione (Morellino di Scansano). Bright and

lively, with cherry and blueberry nuances, this would pair well with pizzas or simple cheeseburgers. It deliv-ers loads of fresh berry intensity and soft, smooth tan-nins. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Campomaccione (Morellino di Scansano). Here’s a cheerful,

bright Morellino di Scansano, with jammy fruit notes of blackberry and cherry. The quality of the fruit is plump and round, and the mouthfeel feels chewy and seeming-ly slightly sweet. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $15

CENTRAL ITALY WHITES

ORVIETO

90 Barberani 2009 Luigi e Giovanna (Orvie-to Classico Superiore). This maybe the nic-

est Orvieto white on the market today. Named after the estate’s founders, this is enhanced with a tiny percent-age of Grechetto Muffa Nobile (botrytized sweet wine) for extra softness and density. The effect is superb, of-fering loads of honey and stone fruit intensity. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $40

87 Barberani 2011 Castagnolo (Orvieto Classico Superiore). Here’s a fascinating

blend of Procanico, Verdello, Grechetto, Drupeggio, Malvasia, Chardonnay and Riesling that offers a crisp, bright bouquet redolent of citrus, white flower, papaya

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and peach. Pair this wine with spicy Indian food or fresh pasta salad. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Trappolini 2010 White (Orvieto). From an up-and-coming estate in Umbria, this blended

white (Trebbiano, Malvasia and Grechetto) opens with generous aromas of ripe fruit, apricot, caramel and honey. The mouthfeel is thick and creamy. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

85 Rocca delle Macìe 2011 White (Orvieto Classico). This offers tonic citrus and kiwi

aromas followed by a thin, no-fuss mouthfeel. Simple, fresh and bright, it’s an easy-drinking Orvieto Classico that would pair with appetizers or fried finger foods. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12

83 Barberani 2011 Vi No SO2 (Orvieto Clas-sico Superiore). This shows slightly volatile

aromas of bitter almond, apple skin and apricot. Vinif-era Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

UMBRIA

93 Marchesi Antinori 2010 Cervaro della Sala (Umbria). From Antinori’s Castello della

Sala estate, this landmark white helped to shine the spotlight on Umbria’s untapped enological potential. A blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto, this is smooth, creamy, complex and long lasting. It offers a beautiful bouquet of vanilla, apricot, exotic fruit and honey, with a subtle touch of exotic spice. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Tabarrini NV White (Umbria). An interesting white, this has an off-gold color, opening with

thick aromas of apricot, honey, Golden Delicious apple and pineapple. There’s a cheerful touch of zesty spice on the finish. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Lungarotti 2011 Torre di Giano (Umbria). Recently relabeled with an Umbria appella-

tion instead of the smaller Torgiano designation, Torre di Giano is a celebrated wine that represents the light, fresh style of Italian whites. The blend is Vermentino, Trebbiano and Grechetto, with a bouquet that’s redo-lent of stone fruit, citrus and dried basil. Vin Divino. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $15

86 Barberani 2011 Vermentino (Umbria). This opens with green notes of kiwi, cut grass

and citrus and finishes with lively acidity and zest. It’s a fresh, easy wine that shows balance and cheerful infor-mality. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Bigi 2010 Vipra Bianca (Umbria). Vipra Bianca, which means “white viper,” is a blend

of 60% Grechetto and 40% Chardonnay. The bouquet offers a delicate floral aroma, with notes of lemon blos-

som and peach. The mouthfeel is smooth, crisp and dry. Opici Wines. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

86 Roccafiore 2010 Bianco Fiordaliso (Um-bria). An organic blend of 80% Grechetto and

20% Trebbiano, this shows big structure and density. It almost feels like a red wine in the mouth because of the creamy texture and weight. The bouquet is fragrant and intense with citrus, honey and apricot aromas. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI

90 Umani Ronchi 2010 Casal di Serra (Ver-dicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico

Superiore). This is a bright and sophisticated Verdic-chio that would pair with the highest caliber seafood including shellfish and crustaceans. It is dense and rich, with cleansing tones of citrus, yellow flower, hon-ey, dried sage and a touch of smooth vanilla. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16

88 Pievalta 2009 San Paolo Riserva (Verdic-chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This

biodynamic and organic wine from the Barone Pizzini wine group shows linear aromas of citrus, stone fruit and crushed granite. The grapes are farmed on clay and tufo rock soils, and these conditions seem to add to the general dryness and elegance of the finished wine. Vig-naioli. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Sartarelli 2009 Tralivio (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore).

Tralivio is an impressive wine that shows surprising brightness and youth despite spending three years in the bottle. The bouquet is redolent of peach, citrus, honey and blanched almond. And, there’s a drying vein of chalky mineral or brimstone that adds an elegant touch. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Sartarelli 2008 Balciana (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Light

golden in color, this has ripe aromas of stone fruit, apri-cot, honey, grapefruit and dried herb. It has freshness and structure, and the finish lasts for many long min-utes. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $NA

88 Umani Ronchi 2008 Plenio Riserva (Ver-dicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). An

oak-fermented Verdicchio, this has an off-gold color, with bright aromas of lemon candy, butterscotch, hon-ey, dried apricot and pineapple. This is made in a big, structured style, making it appropriate for white meat or spicy Thai chicken. Bedford International. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $35

85 Fattoria Laila 2010 Eklektikos (Verdic-chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Supe-

riore). This opens with a thick bouquet, bearing candy-like aromas of lemon soda, honey and apricot preserves.

The finish is balanced with crisp freshness. Montecas-telli Selections. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

85 Umani Ronchi 2010 Exclamation Point (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classi-

co). Distinguished by its bottle with a black label in the shape of a giant exclamation point, this fresh Verdicchio shows simple lines and lively flavors of citrus, peach, dried hay and stone fruit. It’s a light-bodied wine with tart acidity. Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $10

83 Fattoria Laila 2010 Verdicchio dei Castel-li di Jesi. Slightly oxidized at first with aromas

of caramel and butterscotch, the wine soon opens to re-veal apricot, honey and dried hay. It’s an easy, genuine wine to pair with fried onion rings. Montecastelli Selec-tions. —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $12

TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO

92 Masciarelli 2008 Castello di Semivicoli (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). What sets this wine

apart is its gorgeous, creamy intensity on the finish. Made from Trebbiano, this expression shows the quali-tative heights this variety can achieve. Notes of vanilla cream, peach cobbler, dried sage and pineapple appear on the bouquet. The finish is long and full. Try aging this for five years or longer. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

87 Masciarelli 2010 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. A very approachable Trebbiano, this boasts crisp

aromas of cut grass, almond skin, honey and stone fruit. The finish is fresh, with a smooth, creamy texture. Mas-ciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

86 Pasetti 2011 Zarachè (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). A blend of Trebbiano with a small

percent of a little-known grape called Cococciola, this has a fresh bouquet with lemon zest, honey and exot-ic fruit. The wine’s easy mouthfeel makes it perfect for toasted crostini appetizers. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

85 Talamonti 2011 Trebì (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). This is a well-priced white that

shows Trebbiano’s easy and fresh side, with notes of cut grass, citrus and honey. Great for pairing with grilled tuna or salad. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

COLLINE PESCARESI

88 Talamonti 2011 Trabocchetto Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi). A wonderful expression

of Pecorino, this opens with a beautiful floral intensity and fresh aromas of honey, peach, apricot and yellow rose. There’s a drying mineral note on the finish, con-cluding with a touch of zesty spice. Panebianco. Edi-tors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $20


87 Barba 2011 Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi). Pecorino is among the hottest, up-and-coming

white varieties from Italy, and this beautiful expression shows a nice balance between acidity and thick densi-ty. The dense, creamy structure is followed by tones of pineapple, stone fruit, butterscotch candy and yellow rose. Michelangelo Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Farnese 2011 Pinot Grigio (Colline Pes-caresi). Made using organically farmed fruit,

this fresh value white opens with bright tones of citrus and green apple. Pair this wine with grilled vegetables or curry chicken salad. Empson (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

85 Caldora Vini 2011 Pinot Grigio (Colline Pescaresi). From the Adriatic side of the Ital-

ian peninsula comes this fresh Pinot Grigio that would wash down seafood, vegetables or light appetizers. The wine is crisp, clean and redolent of citrus and green ap-ple. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

85 Cantina Zaccagnini 2011 Dal Tralcetto Pi-not Grigio (Colline Pescaresi). The pack-

aging stands out with its tiny grape cutting that’s tied to the bottle’s neck. This is a bright wine that’s redolent of lemon soda, chalky candy (like Pez) and apricot. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

FRASCATI SUPERIORE

88 Principe Pallavicini 2011 Poggio Verde (Frascati Superiore). For full review see

page 9.abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Saula Car-ta Bianca (Frascati Superiore). From one

of Lazio’s most promising wineries, this white blend of indigenous grapes delivers a fragrant bouquet of peach blossom, citrus, pear and apple. The mouthfeel is smooth and silky, with a touch of crisp freshness on the finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Saula Carta Nera (Frascati Superiore). Fresh and easy,

this delivers fruity aromas of Golden Delicious apple, apricot, honey and yellow flower. A drying mineral note renders a clean, polished finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Principe Pallavicini 2011 Frascati Supe-riore. This is a cheerful white from Lazio with

abundant aromas of white flower and honey. It’s easy going, slender and slightly tart on the finish. Vias Im-ports. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

OTHER WHITE WINES

88 Arnaldo Caprai 2011 Grecante Grechet-to (Colli Martani). What a wonderful wine to

pair with spaghetti alle vongole or calamari fritti. Made from Grechetto grapes and aged only in stainless steel, this is fresh, youthful, tangy and crisp, with aromas of citrus, kiwi, honeydew and peach. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Casale del Giglio 2011 Chardonnay (Lazio). Produced by probaby the most pop-

ular brand found in the many trattorie of Rome, this creamy Chardonnay delivers aromas of peach, apricot and vanilla cream. Soilair Selection. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Falesco 2008 Ferentano Roscetto (Lazio). Roscetto, a little-known white grape

from central Italy, delivers impressive structure, depth and intensity. As the wine sees four months of oak, this drinks like a red wine. Bright gold in color, this has gen-erous aromas of peach, pineapple, almond, vanilla and spice. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Illuminati Dino 2011 Pecorino (Contro-guerra). Pecorino is a native variety from cen-

tral Italy that shows a thick consistency and natural aro-mas of yellow flower, butterscotch and exotic fruit. This expression is exceptionally well made because it is crisp and dense without feeling heavy or too chewy. There’s a touch of tangy green herb on the finish. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Caldora Vini 2010 Colle dei Venti Pecori-no (Terre di Chieti). If you haven’t already

tried Pecorino, Colle dei Venti is a good place to start. This boasts loads of peach, exotic fruit, pineapple and pear, with a medium body, good structure and tartness. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19

87 Il Pollenza 2011 Brianello (Marche). For full review see page 10.

abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Illuminati Dino 2011 Costalupo (Con-troguerra). A blend of Trebbiano, Passerina

and Chardonnay, this offers aromas of cut grass, citrus, lemon zest, creamy vanilla and peach. The fresh acid-ity makes this a perfect match for crab legs and butter sauce. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Roccafiore 2010 Fiorfiore Grechetto (Todi). Made from organically farmed Gre-

chetto grapes, this delivers pineapple, Golden Delicious apple, sweet almond and apricot. It would make the perfect companion to shellfish or barbecued shrimp. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

87 Saladini Pilastri 2011 Offida Pecorino. The packaging features a cute sheep cartoon on

the label to underline the double significance of Pecori-no, which is the name of the grape but also means “little sheep.” It’s redolent of exotic fruit, apricot and white pepper, with a thick, soft, almost-viscous mouthfeel. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Tre Monti 2011 Vigna Rocca Albana (Ro-magna). The Albana varietal is usually made

into dessert wine, but this interesting rendition is vini-fied dry. It opens with fragrant aromas of honey, peach and apricot. A touch of subtle sweetness marks the fin-ish. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $14

86 Capestrano 2011 Verdicchio di Matelica. There’s a distinctive element to this Verdicchio

that resembles pressed flower, honey, apricot and fresh pineapple. This is crisp, easy-going and straightforward. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Roccafiore 2010 Bianco Fiordaliso Grechetto (Todi). Made using organic fruit,

this has aromas of pineapple, apricot and candied lem-on. There’s a sensation of stickiness on the palate that resembles ripe fruit and honey. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Tre Monti 2010 Thea (Rubicone). This is an eccentric white with thick density and fatty

glycerine. It’s a bold, big white with aromas of apricot, pear, melon and yellow rose. It drinks like a red wine. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $21

85 Capestrano 2010 Verdicchio di Matelica. Verdicchio is celebrated for its crisp, green aro-

mas that resemble lime, kiwi and cut grass. This expres-sion offers those notes, with an added touch of lemon candy. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

85 Saladini Pilastri 2011 White (Falerio dei Colli Ascolani). Made with organically

farmed fruit, this is light and easy, showing aromas of citrus, white flower and peach. The mouthfeel is creamy and slightly viscous on the finish. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $9

84 Caldora Vini 2010 Chardonnay (Terre di Chieti). This is a ripe Chardonnay with aro-

mas of pineapple, Golden Delicious apple and honey. It’s slightly thick and sticky on the close. Vindino Wine. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

ROSATO

87 Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Divus Rosato (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo).

This delightful rosé offers fresh aromas of raspberry, citrus, cherry and blanched almond. The finish is cool

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and crisp, but the wine also delivers good structure and length. Clyde Thomas. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Domodimonti 2010 Piccolo Principe Ro-sato (Marche). A blend of mostly Sangio-

vese with some Cabernet Sauvignon, this fresh offer-ing opens with light aromas of raspberry, white cherry, pressed violet and peach. Piccolo Principe has enough structure to stand up to white meat or shellfish. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Illuminati Dino 2011 Campirosa Rosato (Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo). Some of Italy’s best

rosé wines come from the Abruzzo region and are made with the hearty, locally grown Montepulciano grape. This expression opens with fresh aromas of wild berry, white almond and dried herb. Montcalm Wine Import-ers. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Talamonti 2011 Rosato (Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo). A delicious rosato made from the

hearty Montepulciano grape, this opens with pretty aro-mas of garden flower, wild berry, dried mint and white almond. This is crisp, fresh and would pair with fried calamari rings. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11

86 Barberani 2011 Rosato (Umbria). This food-friendly rosé has a light pink color and

fresh aromas of peach, grapefruit and wild berry. The mouthfeel is soft and fresh, showing a subtle touch of sweetness. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 Masciarelli 2010 Rosato (Colline Teatine). Packed with jammy fruit and sweet raspberry

flavors, this easy rosé would make a great partner to cocktail appetizers. The finish shows flavors of wild ber-ry and bitter almond. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

CENTRAL ITALY REDS

SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO

95 Arnaldo Caprai 2007 25 Anni (Sagranti-no di Montefalco). For full review see page

3. Cellar Selection.abv: 15% Price: $100

94 Arnaldo Caprai 2006 25 Anni (Sagrantino di Montefalco). Vintner Marco Caprai is the

man who has tamed the tannic, unruly beast that is Sa-grantino. Having carefully aged for two years in oak, this has become deeply elegant and sophisticated. Aromas of chocolate, exotic spice, dark berry, leather, tobacco and dried prune leave a lasting impression. Age for 10 years or more. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selec-tion. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $100

93 Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Collepiano (Sa-grantino di Montefalco). The 2007 vintage

was beautiful in Umbria, and this proves to be a stand out wine with enormous power, personality and depth. It delivers gorgeous intensity with pulses of black cher-ry, chocolate fudge, spice, leather and pipe tobacco. The finish is soft and rich. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

92 Arnaldo Caprai 2006 Collepiano (Sa-grantino di Montefalco). A delicious expres-

sion of Sagrantino, this delivers soft tones of chocolate, exotic spice and toasted nut, lavished over a core of bright cherry and blackberry. The wine shows density and power with characteristic tannic firmness on the close. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

91 Moretti Omero 2005 Montefalco Sagran-tino. What a rare and beautiful expression of

Sagrantino. This delivers unusual tones of cola, euca-lyptus, dried ginger, wild berry and exotic spice. The characteristic firm tannins and structure of Sagranti-no appear fine and textured. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

90 Còlpetrone 2005 Gold (Montefalco Sa-grantino). This expression opens with deep,

sophisticated aromas of cured meat, dried berry fruit and exotic spice. Hearty and rich, this has a thick, tex-tured mouthfeel. You can taste the heat and sunshine of the 2005 vintage. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $135

90 Lungarotti 2009 Sagrantino di Montefal-co. This elegant Sagrantino boasts a dark, inky

color, with aromas of blackberry, tobacco, spice, leath-er, tar and a touch of cherry cola. It shows power and concentration but is well balanced overall. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

90 Tabarrini 2005 Colle Grimaldesco (Mon-tefalco Sagrantino). There’s a bright hint of

soft fruit or ripe cherry that takes away from the overall austerity of the Sagrantino grape. In the background, there are tones of tar, tobacco and spice. The mouthfeel is firmly structured and finely textured as well. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $NA

90 Tabarrini 2004 Colle alle Macchie (Mon-tefalco Sagrantino). Dark, inky and super-

concentrated, this masculine expression offers aromas of dark berry, licorice, tar, tobacco and black asphalt. There’s a touch of mineral dryness in the mouth, with loads of heat and power. Pair it with aged cheese or suc-culent steak. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $NA

90 Tenuta Alzatura 2007 Sagrantino di Mon-tefalco. Tenuta Alzatura is part of the Cecchi

Family Estates (well-known producers in Tuscany), and its foray into Umbria has added depth and variety to an already rich portfolio of wines. The Sagrantino grape

shows impressive smoothness, firmness and bright aro-mas of chocolate, dark cherry and spice. Banfi Vintners. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $45

89 Fongoli 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino. Thick, savory and darkly concentrated, this inky

Sagrantino opens with aromas of ripe blackberry, prune, plum, cured meat and exotic spice. It shows firm, un-yielding tannins on the finish. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Benincasa 2004 Sagrantino di Montefal-co. Having spent 26 months in oak, this dark

and sophisticated Sagrantino opens with savory aromas of toast, cured meat, dark chocolate and dried fruit. It shows a thick, velvety texture, with a touch of tan-nic firmness on the finish. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

88 Còlpetrone 2006 Montefalco Sagrantino. This dark, inky expression of Sagrantino offers

jammy aromas of strawberry jam and blackberry pre-serves, followed by notes of prune, dark chocolate and spice. Expressive and structured, it would pair with roasted pork or grilled prime rib. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 15.5% Price: $60

88 Tabarrini 2006 Campo alla Cerqua (Mon-tefalco Sagrantino). There’s a ripe note of

blackberry jam at the start that is followed by savory tones of cured meat and dried tobacco. Bold, inky and dense, this would pair with steak and green pepper sauce. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. abv: 15% Price: $NA

88 Tenuta Castelbuono 2006 Montefalco Sa-grantino. This Sagrantino by the relatively new

brand Tenuta Castelbuono (owned by the same fami-ly that runs Ferrari sparkling wine) opens with savory notes of cured meat, blackberry and tobacco. It feels rich and spicy on the finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

87 Roccafiore 2007 Sagrantino di Montefal-co. There’s a pungent, spice note at the start

that recalls dried rosemary or sage. Superdark and con-centrated, this picks up with notes of dried apple skin, tar, leather, tobacco and jammy cherry. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

MONTEFALCO ROSSO

90 Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Montefalco Rosso. For full review see page 8.

abv: 14% Price: $23

90 Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Montefalco Rosso. The modern Arnaldo Caprai estate sits at the

base of the hill occupied by the quaint town of Monte-falco in Umbria. Montefalco Rosso is a wine that gives Umbria a chance to strut its stuff with Sangiovese (a grape usually associated with Tuscany). This expression


is soft, velvety and packed with red fruit. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $23

90 Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Riserva (Montefal-co Rosso). Aged 20 months in French oak,

this offers loads of spicy zest and crispness, followed by notes of blackberry, leather, cola and tobacco. Try it with lamb in fresh mint sauce. Folio Fine Wine Part-ners. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

90 Moretti Omero 2007 Montefalco Rosso. This is a nicely balanced Montefalco Rosso

comprised of organically farmed Sangiovese, Sagran-tino and Merlot. It would pair well with grilled sau-sage and onions or oven-roasted pasta—hearty dishes that would match the dark fruit, spice and tobacco-like flavors. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 Benincasa 2007 Montefalco Rosso. There’s a touch of dark spice and cured meat at

the start that is followed by fruitier notes of blackberry and plum. This shows smooth tannins and nice richness, making it a good pairing partner to potato gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese sauce. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

88 Fongoli 2007 Riserva (Montefalco Ros-so). There’s a rustic element here that recalls

smoked bacon or cured beef, with loads of ripe fruit like blackberry and maraschino cherry. This rich, plump red delivers the intensity and staying power to pair with suc-culent cuts of beef. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Lungarotti 2010 Montefalco Rosso. A blend of 75% Sangiovese, with additions of

Merlot and Sagrantino, this opens with spicy aromas of cinnamon and crushed clove, with background tones of blackberry, cherry cola and black licorice. Pair this with veal and wild mushrooms. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $38

88 Tabarrini 2007 Montefalco Rosso. Monte-falco Rosso is primarily Sangiovese with Sagran-

tino, with additions of other red varieties from central Italy. This delivers a strong berry personality with notes of cherry and dried raspberry, backed by notes of wet earth, leather and spice. Tabarrini USA. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Còlpetrone 2008 Montefalco Rosso. Owned by the larger wine group Saiagricola,

Còlpetrone is a solid estate with large vineyard holdings in the Montefalco area. This dark, inky offering shows aromas of blackberry, spice, leather and moist pipe to-bacco. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Fongoli 2009 Montefalco Rosso. Com-posed of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot and

Montepulciano, this offers pretty tones of spice and

wild berry, with background tones of tobacco and worn leather. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Fongoli 2008 Montefalco Rosso. There’s a savory element here of dried ham or beef jerky,

backed by blackberry, prune, leather and spice. It shows a touch of bright acidity on the close that would help it pair with cheesy pasta dishes. Massanois Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Tenuta Castelbuono 2008 Montefalco Rosso. Dark and savory, yet easy-drinking, this

is redolent of blackberry, prune, leather, tobacco and ex-otic spice. It would pair with roast chicken or spicy pork. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

OTHER UMBRIAN REDS

92 Lungarotti 2007 Rubesco Riserva Vigna Monticchio (Torgiano). This wine’s most out-

standing quality is the elegant and delicate manner with which the bouquet slowly reveals itself. This vineyard-designate wine is a traditional blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, opening with subtle aromas of red cherry, dried violet, moist earth, vanilla and cured meat. Vin Divino. Cellar Selection. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $57

91 Falesco 2008 Marciliano Cabernet (Um-bria). Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon show

a united front with an authentic Italian feel. Umbria’s Marciliano is a dense and rich red wine, with savory aro-mas of blackberry, cured meat, dried sage, leather, to-bacco and dark chocolate. The wine’s tannins are firm and dense, but not at all sharp or thorny. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Lungarotti 2005 San Giorgio (Umbria). This shows beautiful balance and intensity, with

notes of black fruit, espresso, leather and a touch of drying mineral. The blend is Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $63

91 Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Phi Natura Armo-nia (Umbria). Cabernet Franc and Montep-

ulciano join forces to produce a bold, masculine wine with a velvety soft style and lasting notes of chocolate, tobacco, blackberry and spice. There’s a touch of Cab-ernet greenness on the close that recalls dried rosemary or sage. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Phi Natura Armo-nia (Umbria). Bold, thick and chewy, this mas-

culine blend of Montepulciano and Cabernet Franc de-livers lasting aromas of pipe tobacco, cinnamon, jammy blackberry and dried herb. The finish is driven by a soft, chocolate-fudge-like aftertaste. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

90 Barberani 2007 Polvento Villa Monticel-li (Lago di Corbara). This blend of Sangio-

vese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with bright aromas of cola, licorice, black fruit and tobacco. It’s an elegant red wine with enough structure to pair with roast pork or thinly cut lamb shanks. Vinifera Imports. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Falesco 2009 Il Falesco (Umbria). A blend of Merlot and Sangiovese, this delivers beautiful

aromas of chocolate, spice, tobacco, ripe fruit and black cherry. It is densely concentrated and plump, with a vel-vety mouthfeel and long finish. Pair it with oven-roasted lasagna. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

90 Lungarotti 2007 Toralco (Umbria). This superconcentrated red delivers savory aromas

of cured meat, wild mushroom, exotic spice with bold fruit tones of prune, plum and dried blackberry. It’s a bold wine that would pair with fire-grilled steak. Vin Di-vino. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

89 Falesco 2010 Merlot (Umbria). Falesco’s Riccardo Cotarella makes some of Italy’s best

Merlot. His talents are evident in this easygoing expres-sion from Umbria, which is rich and succulent, bearing dark tones of blackberry, leather and sweet chocolate. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Anima Umbra (Um-bria). A blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, this

is a richly concentrated red that would pair with pork, lamb or hearty lasagna with beef sauce. An easy dinner wine to share with friends, it is redolent of blackberry, spice and cured meat. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $13

88 Falesco 2010 Vitiano (Umbria). You can’t beat this low price. No wonder Vitiano is a con-

stant feature on wine lists at restaurants across Rome. This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and San-giovese offers spicy oak notes, with suggestions of ripe cherry, blackberry and spice. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

88 Lungarotti 2009 Rubesco (Torgiano). A a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino,

this opens with a tangy bouquet that’s redolent of wild berry, dried ginger, cola and licorice. Easy drinking and smooth, this has fresh acidity on the finish. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Terra di Confine (Umbria). Aged 12 months in French oak, this

has creamy aromas of chocolate fudge and cinnamon. Made by Umbria’s Maravalle family, this blend of 80% Montepulciano and 20% Merlot is easy going and crisp, with loads of fresh fruit flavors. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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88 Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Terra di Confine (Umbria). Comprised of mostly Montepul-

ciano with 20% Merlot, this shows sweet tones of ripe cherry, blackberry, cinnamon and tobacco. It’s simple and straightforward, with clean, velvety lines. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

87 Falesco 2009 Merlot (Umbria). A great trat-toria wine, this smooth Merlot opens with aro-

mas of ripe fruit and a touch of cured meat. It’s a full-bodied expression with easy fruit flavors and a touch of bright acidity on the close. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Falesco 2009 Red (Assisi). This easygoing blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and

Merlot would make a perfect companion to a hearty pasta dish like bucatini all’Amatriciana or spaghetti alla carbonara. It delivers red cherry, leather and tobacco notes over a clean, bright mouthfeel. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Falesco 2008 Sangiovese (Umbria). Plump and rich, this shows warm climate aro-

mas of blackberry preserves, ripe cherry, dark cola and cigar tobacco. There’s a fine touch of exotic spice on the close. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Roccafiore 2008 Prova d’Autore (Um-bria). A blend of Sangiovese, Montepulciano

and Sagrantino, this is a rich, chewy red with savory aro-mas of cured meat and spice. There’s a touch of ripe fruit and even a note on the finish that resembles cin-namon or ground nutmeg. Vintners Estate Direct Im-porting. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

87 Roccafiore 2008 Rosso (Umbria). This Sangiovese-based red has a light, ruby color and

offers fresh aromas of violet, wet earth, wild mushroom and leather. Delicate and streamlined, it has fresh acid-ity that would pair well with simple pasta and Parmigia-no. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Elcione (Umbria). A blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet, this

delivers sassy aromas of leather and cinnamon, with ripe, pulpy fruit. There’s a touch of cherry that gives the wine a soft, velvety finish. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Elcione (Umbria). This is the quintessential red meat wine that

delivers plump aromas of dark berry, leather, spice and black pepper. There’s a touch of jammy fruit in the mouth but enough acidity to break through succulent cuts of lamb or beef. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

86 La Carraia 2008 Tizzonero (Umbria). This opens with savory, slightly beefy aromas of bres-

aola and ripe blackberry. There seems to be a touch of

sweetness on the palate, followed by a thickly textured finish. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Roccafiore 2009 Rosso Melograno (Um-bria). A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20%

Montepulciano, this opens with savory aromas of to-bacco, leather, cola, cherry cola and white licorice. The mouthfeel is fresh, light and slightly tart on the finish. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Sangio’vese (Um-bria). This easy expression of Sangiovese offers

an unusual set of aromas that spans from sweet Christ-mas spice to blue flower to green herb. A touch of cola or eucalyptus gives the wine a bright, vertical lift. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

MARCHE

90 Colli di Serrapetrona 2006 Robbione (Marche). Robbione is a pure expression of

Vernaccia Nera—a red grape variety found in central Italy—that is strongly redolent of white pepper straight out of a pepper mill. Unique, intense and loaded with personality, try this with grilled steak in green pepper sauce. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Il Pollenza 2007 Red (Marche). For full re-view see page 8.

abv: 14.5% Price: $57

88 Domodimonti 2008 Il Messia (Marche). A plump blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Monte-

pulciano, this opens with a sweet cherry flavor, followed by notes of tobacco, leather and cola. Pair this with pork sausages. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

87 Domodimonti 2008 Picens (Marche). This is a bold blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese,

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, offering sweet aromas of red cherry, blackberry, spice and pipe tobacco. The ripeness of the wine is very attractive—thanks to a play-ful touch of sweetness on the finish MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $18

86 Domodimonti 2010 Monte Fiore Sangio-vese (Marche). Slender and compact, this has

a light ruby color, with lively aromas of wild berry and bitter almond. The acidity shows a tight, nervous qual-ity. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

85 Angelini 2011 Pergola Rosso (Marche). This opens with perfumed aromas of blue flow-

er, cherry and wild berry. Soft and simple, it has a pret-ty floral finish of red rose and violet. Angelini Wine. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

83 Angelini 2010 Pergola Rosso (Marche). Light and lean, this could easily be labeled a

rosé. The aromas reinforce that notion thanks to the

tones of rose petal, pink grapefruit and bitter almond. Angelini Wine. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO

90 Cantina Zaccagnini 2008 Vigneto Edoar-do (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This offers

layers of toasted nut, chocolate, jammy black fruit and tobacco. The mouthfeel is soft and smooth, with a good deal of richness and density to drive it forward over the palate. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $60

90 Pasetti 2007 Tenutarossa (Montepulcia-no d’Abruzzo). Rich and chewy, this comes

with bold aromas of black fruit, plum, licorice, tobacco and leather. It’s slightly rustic in places, but its overall personality and feel is intriguing and pleasurable. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 Talamonti 2010 Tre Saggi (Montepulcia-no d’Abruzzo). A great wine to pair with gour-

met hamburgers or grilled Italian sausages, this has a smooth mouthfeel that’s enhanced by layers of sweet blackberry, tobacco, cinnamon and espresso bean. The finish is soft and velvety. Panebianco. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Caldora Vini 2007 Yume (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Notes of raw cherry, coffee syrup,

ripe blackberry and moist pipe tobacco all play major roles on the bouquet. This is boldly extracted and rich, with toasted espresso and almond notes on the finish. Vin Divino. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

88 Cantina Zaccagnini 2009 Dal Tralcetto (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Dal Tralcetto

shows the softness of Montepulciano, with aromas of sweet cherry, prune, tobacco, cinnamon and toasted nut. A tiny grape cutting is affixed to the neck of the bottle as a throwback to old farming traditions. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $17

88 Cantina Zaccagnini 2008 Chronicon (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Montepulcia-

no d’Abruzzo wines are making steady gains in popu-larity in foreign markets thanks to the softness and the creaminess of their fruit flavors. This one has soft and yielding tannins, with aromas that are intensely redolent of black cherry, coffee and tobacco. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Farnese 2010 Casale Vecchio (Monte-pulciano d’Abruzzo). Sometimes you need

a sturdy wine for a decadent TV night with pepperoni and sausage pizza. This velvety-rich Montepulciano fits the bill perfectly, thanks to its aromas of spice, blackber-ry, cinnamon and moist tobacco. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $18


87 Caldora Vini 2011 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Perfectly suited for home-cooked

comfort meals like lasagna or meatloaf, this is rich, dense and soft, with endnotes of blackberry, cherry and tobacco. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Pasetti 2007 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Definitely on the warm and jammy side, this

easygoing Montepulciano delivers aromas of black-berry, dried fruit and cured meat. This would pair well with roast pork stuffed with prunes. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Capestrano 2010 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The flagship red grape in Abruz-

zo is Montepulciano, and this expression shows a light and informal side to the native variety. Soft, velvety tan-nins frame the plump black-cherry fruit. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Farnese 2011 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Stock your pantry with this wine to pair with

take-out pizza or easy pasta dishes at home. This de-livers soft tannins and a sweet cherry flavor. Empson (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11

86 Talamonti 2010 Modà (Montepulcia-no d’Abruzzo). Jammy fruit, raspberry pre-

serves, espresso, leather and tobacco form the nose of this dense, bold Montepulciano. The tannins are soft, smooth and velvety. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $11

OTHER RED WINES

91 Farnese 2007 Opi Riserva (Colline Tera-mane). This hearty red is packed tight with su-

perintense aromas of black fruit, leather, tobacco and roasted espresso bean. Bold, big and meaty, this is rich-ly extracted and inky dark. Pair it with aged Pecorino cheese. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $35

87 Rontana 2008 Sangiovese (Colli di Faenza). This Sangiovese from central Italy of-

fers abundant freshness and pretty aromas of wild berry, almond, cola and dried ginger. There’s a touch of dried herb and licorice that gives the wine a bright, buoyant finish. Imports Inc. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Tenuta Amalia 2010 Bio-571 (Sangiovese di Romagna). Made with organically farmed

Sangiovese, this pretty red delivers savory aromas of spice, cola and steak sauce, with cool, fruit intensity and bright acidity on the finish. Wine Emporium. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

86 Caldora Vini 2011 Terre di Chieti. Avail-able at an attractively low price, this Sangiovese

shows easy berry aromas with soft accents of blue flower and diced almond. The wine’s natural freshness makes it

perfect to pair against cheesy pasta dishes. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

86 Farnese 2011 Terre di Chieti. Toasted al-mond, wild berry, plump cherry and wild rasp-

berry open the nose on this Sangiovese, which has the varietal’s characteristic freshness as well. Empson (USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

86 Pasetti 2010 Diecicoppe (Colline Pesca-resi). A blend of Montepulciano, Merlot and

Cabernet, this offers savory aromas of leather, tobacco, spice and dark fruit. There’s a tangy note of cured meat and teriyaki on the close. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

85 Angelini 2007 Riserva Sangiovese (Col-li Pesaresi). This opens with ripe aromas of

candied fruit and sweet prune. There’s a touch of crisp cherry cola, with a general tartness on the finish. Ange-lini Wine. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $25

84 Angelini 2008 Sangiovese (Colli Pesa-resi). Almost rosé-like in color and personality,

this light, Sangiovese-based wine delivers bright acid-ity and layers of wild berry and pink flower. Angelini Wine. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $17

ARGENTINA

CHARDONNAY

87 Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Chardonnay (Mendoza). Walnut, banana, apple and vanilla

aromas are nicely presented. The palate holds its own as far as structure, while the melon, apple and honey flavors are friendly. This is a better-than-you’d-expect Chardonnay for everyday drinking. Pasternak Wine Im-ports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Trapiche 2011 Broquel Chardonnay (Mendoza). This has apple and nectarine aro-

mas that are a touch briny. It shows good acidity and mouthfeel, with flavors of apple, peach and even some green bean. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

84 Trapiche 2011 Finca Las Palmas Char-donnay (Mendoza). This is oakier and more

expensive than prior Trapiche Chardonnays, but it’s not necessarily better. It smells like a rubber band and a barrel, bearing resiny flavors of mango and melon, with lots of sweet oak and vanilla tones. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

84 Valentin Bianchi 2011 Elsa Chardonnay (Mendoza). Apple and white fruit aromas

set up a balanced, reasonably full palate, with banana, creamy oak, vanilla and apple flavors. It feels solid and round, with a clean finish. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

83 Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Char-donnay (Mendoza). Mild varnish and lac-

quer aromas stem from the oak influence, and there’s not a lot of fruit to offset those notes. It feels plump and a bit clumsy, with briny citrus flavors leading to a pickled, resiny finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Chardonnay (Mendoza). After light scents of butter and

spiced apple surface, the wine turns briny and pickled, both in aromas and flavors. It feels fleshy on the fin-ish, with briny stone-fruit and citrus flavors. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

81 Telteca 2011 Roble Chardonnay (Men-doza). A nutty apricot aroma marks the nose.

It feels creamy and sticky, with sweet vanilla and baked fruit flavors. With time it turns more cloying. Fleischer International Trading, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

81 Trivento 2011 Reserve Chardonnay (Mendoza). Light on the nose, it feels tangy

in the mouth, with sharp flavors of mustard, brine and lime. This finishes with a pickled flavor. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

SAUVIGNON BLANC

87 Pulenta Estate 2011 VI Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). There aren’t many Argentine Sau-

vignon Blancs that make a statement, so this is com-mendable for showing a lightly citric and minerally nose in front of fresh, citrusy flavors of lime, tangerine and grapefruit. More friendly and easygoing than intense or pungent, it fades quick and easy on the finish. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

84 Árido 2011 Sustainably Farmed Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Mendoza). Oyster shell and

matchstick aromas come with distant peach and mel-on notes. Feels good but rudimentary, with peach and papaya flavors that end soft and easy. Drink this imme-diately for maximum zest and freshness. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

84 Bodega Norton 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). A touch of minerality on the nose

comes with apple and lemon aromas. It feels fleshy, with pulpy white-fruit flavors that end with honeydew and papaya notes. Drink now. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

83 Funky Llama 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). Papaya, lime and peach aromas

are basic but clean. The palate, too, feels basic and clean. Flavors of orange and citrus pith lead to a fleshy, sweet-tasting finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

83 Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Mendoza). This smells a bit oily

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and like a match, with additional aromas of white fruits and corn flakes. It feels pulpy but just crisp enough, with pithy grapefruit and sweet papaya flavors. It tastes candied on the finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

TORRONTÉS

89 Trapiche 2011 Broquel Torrontés (Cafay-ate). Every year this wine seems to get better.

This vintage deals notes of lemon pie, melon and lychee on the bouquet, which is followed by a palate that’s oily yet racy. Flavors of lychee and pineapple are true to Torrontés, while green herb and lime notes stir things up. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Matias Bertona Wines 2011 Inspiratto from the Andes Torrontés (Mendoza).

Vanilla cookie and stone fruit aromas set up a creamy, mostly fresh-feeling palate, with flowery papaya and green banana flavors. It’s tropical in style, with com-plexity and length to the finish. Wine Brindis Import-ers. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $18

87 Trivento 2011 Reserve Torrontés (Men-doza). Clean and basic up front, with peach

and white flower aromas. It feels juicy, with just enough body, bearing fruit salad flavors of nutmeg-dusted white grapes, apple and peach. It turns dry and almondy on the finish. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Torrontés (Salta). This is extremely aromatically pungent, with

notes of honeysuckle, melon and lychee blasting up from the glass. It shows body and an oily quality, with orange, kumquat and peach flavors. This is round, showing a citrus rind flavor on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Valentin Bianchi 2011 Elsa Torrontés (Mendoza). Tropical and friendly, this feels

a little bulky and chunky, but with enough acidity for balance. Flavors of citrus and mango are medium in-tense, while the finish is soft. Drink soon. Quintessential Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

84 Callia 2011 Reservado Torrontés (San Juan). This is neutral on the nose except for

green banana and white grapefruit hints. It feels melo-ny, with flavors that match the mouthfeel in the form of melon and nectarine. This is flabby on the finish, need-ing more cut and zest. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

82 Telteca 2011 Uma Colección Torrontés (Mendoza). Oily and mustardy on the nose,

then inconistent and not real clear on the palate. It tastes like briny melon and apricot, turning a bit flat on the finish. Fleischer International Trading, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

82 Toneles del Sur 2011 Torrontés (Men-doza). Mellow and melony up front, with a

plump, bland palate featuring mealy melon and peach flavors. The finish has a touch of bitterness. Wine Brin-dis Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $15

81 Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Torron-tés (Mendoza). This is not a consistent wine

year to year. Some vintages are true and vital, but this is clunky, with flavors of honeyed white fruits and bitter almond skins. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

OTHER WHITE WINE

83 Martino 2011 Old Vine Pedro Ximénez (Mendoza). This is briny and oily on the nose,

with grapefruit aromas. It feels citrusy in the mouth, with bitter nut and citrus flavors that turn pithy and more briny on the finish. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

BONARDA

89 Trapiche 2010 Broquel Bonarda (Men-doza). Saturated and pitch black to look at, and

not much different in scent. This is a fully extracted, modern Bonarda that’s well made and generous. Full-bodied wine lovers should like the meaty, dark berry and cocoa flavors. Tannic but layered on the finish. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

88 Gardel 2010 Vendimia Especial Bonarda (Mendoza). This is fresh, showing plenty of

pop on the fruit-filled bouquet. It feels wide and jammy, yet grabby and dry because of its firm tannins. Typical of Bonarda, it’s full of ripe black-fruit flavors and licorice, while the structured finish makes for a good ending. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $20

86 Alfredo Roca 2010 Dedicación Personal Bonarda (Mendoza). This is earthy, rubbery

and big on the nose, which isn’t unusual for Bonarda. The tannins clamp down on the palate, tasting roasted, with hickory and smoked meat flavors sticking out. It’s dense but not very active on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

86 Gardel 2011 Colección Bonarda (Mendo-za). Red and black fruit aromas open the nose.

The palate feels healthy, with tight tannins and charg-ing flavors of blackberry and dark plum. Pair this with a burger, pasta or pizza. Frontier Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $11

83 Argento 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza). This smells rubbery and like cured meat, and it’s not

very fruity. It clunks across the palate with squeaky tan-nins, a lot of weight and foresty, herbal plum flavors. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

CABERNET FRANC

87 Lagarde 2010 Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Luján de Cuyo). Earthy plum and

berry aromas are suggestive of Bordeaux, but the brown sugar and baked fruit angle is all Mendoza. Snappy acid-ity helps the wine stay trim, while linear raspberry and cherry flavors are red in character. This is gripping with an acidic push to the finish. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $29

86 Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Reserva Cabernet Franc (Agrelo). Black fruit, leather

and licorice aromas are draped all over this heavyweight Cabernet Franc. It feels tannic, with aggressive flavors of bullish black fruit. This is flavorful at every point, but hard and abrasive in feel. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

82 Pulenta Estate 2009 Gran XI Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). Extremely herbal and veg-

etal, this is also saturated and syrupy on the palate. Fla-vors of green bean, mushroom, tomato paste and baked berry are undeniable. It hints at something better but requires too much patience to find it. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

90 Trapiche 2008 Finca Las Palmas Caber-net Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cola, tree bark

and rooty aromas become more oaky and toasted with airing. It feels solid and correct, with balanced tannins and acids that stage red plum, cassis, coffee and toasted flavors. Staying toasty and composed on the finish, this is a ripe Cabernet Sauvignon that delivers. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Trapiche 2008 Gran Medalla Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). A bit rustic and briary,

this has a foresty aroma along with a rooty note and a hint of cola. It feels big and acidic, but the cassis, black-berry and herbal flavors are authentic and hit firmly. The finish is long, mildly herbal and juicy, with weight and power to spare. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $46

88 Familia Cassone 2008 Obra Prima Reser-va Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cola,

root beer and cherry aromas come with controlled heat. The palate is dense and chewy, with pumped-up tannins supporting very ripe-tasting cassis and cooked plum fla-vors. It’s toasty and spicy on the firm finish. Bedford In-ternational. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $21

88 Pascual Toso 2009 Alta Reserve Bar-rancas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

(Mendoza). This smells familiar and solid, with black-berry, licorice and dark cherry aromas. It feels medium bodied for a high-end Argentine Cabernet, with healthy acidity and probing tannins. The flavors of blackberry


and raspberry finish crisp and slightly citric. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $35

88 Trapiche 2010 Broquel Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Mendoza). For full review see page 9.

—M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Finca Perdriel 2009 Colección Caber-net Sauvignon (Mendoza). Straightforward

aromas of black currant and dark plum help create a rich style of Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a syrupy palate that’s made firmer by driving tannins. It features a lot of chocolate, baked black-plum and mild herbal flavors. It’s ultraconcentrated, and more driving than discern-ing. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 Salvatore Principe 2011 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Mendoza). At first, this smells charred

and meaty, but blackberry, leather and roasted plum aromas soon sneak out. This runs big, with good acid-ity and manageable tannins. Flavors of cherry and cas-sis are lively and familiar. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Menduco 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (Uco Valley). Penetrating cola, mint

and black fruit aromas are probing. It feels tight and gripping, tasting forward and correct for the variety, with bell pepper, black fruit and spice flavors. This is ro-bust, with good flavors and quality fruit. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

86 Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Mendoza). This is dark, smoky and

minty at first, turning more earthy, leathery and warm as it opens. It feels big and sort of tough, with smoked, roasted flavors of savory berry and rooty cola. It finishes tannic and rubbery. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Alta Vista 2010 Premium Cabernet Sau-vignon (Mendoza). Hard, minty, oaky and

even a touch chemical on the nose, then tough as nails in the mouth. Tastes resiny and minty, with black fruit flavors and extreme tannic clamp. Chocolaty tasting on the finish, which retains the wine’s hard personality. Tasted twice. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

85 Finca El Origen 2011 Reserva Caber-net Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Leathery ber-

ry aromas are earthy and suggest notes of cured meat and cheese. It gets tougher and more tannic the more it breathes, with black fruit, herb and spice flavors. Gen-erous but rough in feel, it has a powerful, medium-long finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

83 Alta Vista 2010 Classic Cabernet Sau-vignon (Mendoza). Somewhat murky and

smelling of compost and green berry fruit. Feels full and wide, with a hard palate containing milk chocolate

and molasses flavors. Finishes bitter, dark and herbal, with gripping tannins. Tasted twice. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $12

82 Michel Torino 2010 Don David Finca La Urquiza #8 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cafay-

ate). A green and herbal style of northern Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon, this smells like tobacco, green bean, bell pepper and oregano. Quite tannic in feel, it bears a roasted herb flavor, finishing savory but green. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

81 Canoas 2010 Estate Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (San Juan). Grapy and jammy

smelling, this feels narrow and high in acid, bearing plum and tart cherry flavors that turn more sour with time. The finish is tomatoey and abrupt. HGC Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.8% Price: $10

80 Familia Cassone 2011 Finca La Florencia Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This is

saturated, flat and flabby on the nose, with pudgy black-berry aromas. It has a static, jammy mouthfeel, tasting overspiced and heavily oaked. Bedford International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

MALBEC

95 Trapiche 2009 Finca Jorge Miralles Sin-gle Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). For

full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 15% Price: $50

94 Trapiche 2009 Finca Domingo F. Sarmien-to Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta).

For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

94 Viña Alicia 2008 Coleccion de Familia Brote Negro (Luján de Cuyo). For full re-

view see page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

93 Doña Silvina 2007 Reserva Malbec (Men-doza). Big and modern, this has simmering

aromas of turned earth, graham cracker, leather, plum and blackberry. It feels megasaturated but well bal-anced, with hugely ripe black-fruit, chocolate and toast-ed marshmallow flavors. Warm and nearly Port-like, this is full of toffee and fudge notes on the finish. It’s a flashy, polished, 21st-century red wine. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $69

93 Trapiche 2009 Finca Suarez Lastra Sin-gle Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). For

full review see page 5.abv: 15% Price: $50

92 Cielo y Tierra 2007 Don Juan Nahuel Mal-bec (Mendoza). This opens with persuasive

aromas of wild berry and cassis before cola and leather notes enter. It’s a powerfully built Malbec with bright acidity, strong bones and pure, bold flavors of blackber-

ry and black cherry. This is youthful and more fruit fo-cused than the oakier DJN 2006 Reserva Malbec. The Sorting Table. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $32

92 Enrique Foster 2006 Limited Edition Mal-bec (Luján de Cuyo). For full review see


92 Trapiche 2008 Gran Medalla Malbec (Mendoza). Smooth and polished, this bears

cola, earth, blackberry and floral aromas. It shows pow-er and precision, with silky tannins, integrated acid-ity and deep flavors of berry, leather and herb. This is slightly minty, smoky and spicy on the back end, where fine oak takes charge. Drink now–2015. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

91 Bodega Norton 2009 Privada Malbec (Mendoza). Spunky right off the bat, this has

floral and fresh fruit aromas that fall squarely into the wild berry category. It feels lively on the palate, with spiked acidity but enough weight and depth to absorb it. This tastes like a mix of plum, blackberry and choco-late, and the finish darkens up with notes of pepper and spice. Drink now–2017. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Familia Cassone 2008 Obra Prima Col-eccion Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendo-

za). The bouquet is stylish and rooty, with black-fruit and chocolate scents leading the charge. It shows good structure, meaning it’s full but not too thick or jammy. Flavors of ripe blackberry and plum are generous and a touch rubbery, while the finish is full and mildly tannic. Bedford International. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

91 Finca Perdriel 2009 Colección Malbec (Mendoza). This is a cuddly, jammy, ripe Mal-

bec with maple, blackberry and oak aromas. It feels weighty and lush, with large-scale boysenberry, black-berry and blueberry flavors. It turns a little soft and ba-sic on the finish, but there’s no griping about this wine’s purity and fruit content. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

91 Trapiche 2008 Finca Las Palmas Malbec (Mendoza). A high-end Malbec experience

at a reasonable price, this boasts rich aromas of cola, graphite and boysenberry that leap from the glass. The palate is bright and just thick enough, with wild berry, cherry, plum and oak-based flavors. Another whack of oak, along with vanilla, chocolate and tobacco flavors, graces the finish. Drink now–2015. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Cielo y Tierra 2006 Don Juan Nahuel Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). This is floral,

exotic and candied smelling, with supporting notes of dusty cocoa and toasty oak. It feels saturated and inky, with a density that borders on too much. Roasted ber-ry, foresty spice, herb and jammy berry flavors set up the woody, menthol-flavored finish. From Gustavo San-

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taoalla, an Argentine musician and composer. The Sort-ing Table. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $41

90 Lagarde 2009 Primeras Viñas Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). The jammy, sweet berry

aromas are suggestive of blueberry, cookie and graham cracker. It feels condensed and a bit reduced, with mild tannins and flavors of blueberry, blackberry and herb accents. It’s not rough but definitely ripe and flamboy-ant, with a big, jammy personality. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $49

90 Matias Bertona Wines 2008 Inspiratto from the Andes Reserve Malbec (Men-

doza). This smells toasty up front, with aromas of tree bark, earth and shoe polish. It runs deep and rich on the tongue, with a syrupy feel and flavors of graham cracker, tobacco, berry pie and herb accents. The finish is good but seems a little hollow, with rooty, herbal flavors that linger. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

90 Terrazas de Los Andes 2008 Single Vine-yard Las Compuertas Malbec (Luján de

Cuyo). A bit leafy and earthy on first take, but this also smells of roasted meat, berry fruit and menthol. It feels layered and rich, with drying tannins and full-force plum and herb flavors. This is big, dark and herbal, finishing with hints of leather, tomato and oregano. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $45

90 Toneles del Sur 2008 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). This is rooty smelling, with lico-

rice, root beer, tar and smoky notes accenting berry fruit aromas. It feels unctuous but manages to hold onto its balance, and the flavors of baked berry, black plum and savory herb are on the money. The finish is chewy in feel, with a slightly herbal character. Wine Brindis Im-porters. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

89 Enrique Foster 2007 Firmado Malbec (Mendoza). This is a pushy wine with aromas

of rubber, pencil eraser, leather, blueberry and oak. It has the tannic grip that creates a certain roughness, while blueberry and spice flavors have fire to them, es-pecially on the finish.. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $93

89 Lamadrid 2008 Single Vineyard Gran Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). Saturated on the

nose, this has aromas of pencil lead, coconut, vanilla and black fruit. It feels tannic, with pulsing acidity pushing raisin, prune, black plum, licorice and graphite flavors. The finish is oaky, resiny and chocolaty tasting. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

88 Menduco 2011 Reserve Malbec (Uco Val-ley). Concentrated blackberry and black cur-

rant aromas are ripe and come with a balsamic note. It feels juicy, full, lively and fresh, with oaky dark-plum flavors accented by rooty, herbal notes. Dry tannins

mark the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

87 Bodega Norton 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Ripe red-fruit flavors are nice and normal, while

the palate feels fresh and lifted by balancing acids. Fo-cused raspberry and plum flavors are clean and don’t push the oak envelope. Overall, this is lively and fun. T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

87 Fabre Montmayou 2011 Phebus Malbec (Mendoza). Aromas of dark berry, rubber and

a smoky quality define the bouquet. It feels nice, with a slight tannic grab and likable flavors of red berry and pepper. Short on the finish, but it’s fresh and clean. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Pascual Toso 2009 Alta Reserve Barran-cas Vineyards Malbec (Mendoza). Not as

good as in previous vintages, this has a distinct minty, shrill quality to the otherwise leathery and foresty bou-quet. It feels a bit raw and high in acidity, with plum and herb flavors. Modest on the finish, this stays fairly minty and herbal while remaining fresh. T.G.I.C. Im-porters. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $35

86 Gardel 2011 Colección Malbec (Mendo-za). Dark and minty smelling, this bears hints

of blackberry, perfume and violet. It feels good and not too forceful, with regular Malbec flavors of dark fruit, red plum and spice. The finish is firm and slightly me-dicinal. Frontier Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $11

85 Alma del Sur 2011 Colección Malbec (Mendoza). The fresh berry aromas are solid,

and the palate is plucky and lively, with plenty of acid-ity to push the ripe, standard Malbec flavors of black-berry and spice. It shows some tartaric crispness and bite on the finish, but tastes right. Martin Scott Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

85 Bodega Norton 2011 Lo Tengo Malbec (Mendoza). Black fruit aromas come with

a dusty note and a hint of milk chocolate. This feels straightforward, with flavors of raspberry, mild herb and sugar beet. The finish is short and easy, with an ap-proachable mouthfeel. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2011 Lote 44 Malbec (Mendoza). A lot of oak hits hard,

with initial scents of shoe polish and black tar. This is rubbery, big and forward stuff, with loud plum, berry, toast and oak flavors. The finish stays minty, toasty and slightly bitter. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

83 Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2011 Tolentino Winemaker’s Selection Malbec (Mendo-

za). Meaty plum and berry aromas come with dark, demanding, minty aromas that are similar to this win-ery’s Lote 44 bottling. It feels astringent, with a resiny

oak tone and flavors of raspberry, chocolate and grainy wood. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

82 Finca Flichman 2011 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Nervy plum and wet-dog aromas

set up a firm palate that’s herbal tasting. Licorice, me-dicinal berry and green notes surface on the finish. Eva-ton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

82 Ñandú 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). The light-er-style nose that focuses on red plum and cher-

ry is a welcome change from all of the heavy Malbecs out there, but the wine doesn’t follow through on the palate. It becomes astringent, with tastes of tomato, stewed berry and cranberry. Polaris Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $17

81 Funky Llama 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). The nonexpressive berry and cherry aromas are

closed. Light in feel, this tastes of citrus, plum and rhu-barb. The lightweight finish is mildly herbal and green. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

80 Toca Diamonte 2010 Malbec (Mendo-za). While this smells floral and candied, the

palate rages, courtesy of strapping acidity that creates tart plum and blueberry flavors. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $5

PINOT NOIR

86 Trapiche 2011 Broquel Pinot Noir (Men-doza). Little by little Trapiche is improving its

Pinot Noirs, evidenced by this authentic, lightly per-fumed wine. It’s fresh, bearing good acidity and roasted berry and leaf flavors. It finishes with mild tomato and herb accents. This gets better with time in the glass. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

85 Pulenta Estate 2010 Gran XV Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Leafy and smoky smelling, this

has lean cherry and raspberry aromas in the backdrop. This is a tight and linear wine, with strawberry and rasp-berry flavors that pick up speed. Overall it’s juicy, jumpy and legit, but nervy. This may benefit from more bot-tle aging. Only 512 cases were produced. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

85 Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Pinot Noir (Men-doza). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 14% Price: $10

82 Alfredo Roca 2011 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Spearmint and soft berry aromas turn toward

raisin. This feels wide and flabby, with a lot of oak and resin notes in its frame. This is quite oaky, spicy and minty for Pinot Noir. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $14

81 Amadores 2010 Pinot Noir (Mendoza). This smells like a forest fire, but it’s also creamy


and roasted. Tangy and tart, this features narrow plum and cherry flavors that are powered by blazing acidity. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

OTHER RED WINES

86 Alfredo Roca 2011 Malbec-Merlot (Men-doza). Dusty berry and plum aromas set the

stage for a big, cheek-grabbing wine with red berry, leather and light herb flavors. Toasty and minty, this finishes with a touch of spice. This is a good blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Merlot. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $12

85 Altos de San Isidro 2009 Reserve Bar-bera (Salta). This smells roasted, leathery and

earthy, with a mouthfeel that’s solid if a bit scratchy. It delivers an intense wild-berry aroma and some of Ca-fayate’s signature complex herbal character. Oaky va-nilla and dill notes accent the finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

84 Tempus Alba 2008 Tempranillo (Mendo-za). The nose opens with animalistic scents

of leather, compost and barnyard. This has an average mouthfeel, with somewhat herbal plum and berry fla-vors that finish short with a mild leafy character. Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

83 Wandering Grape 2011 Malbec-Merlot (Mendoza). Raspy cherry aromas precede a

scratchy palate that’s characterized by its high acid-to-body ratio. It tastes a bit tart and generic, with a red plum flavor in front of a fiery finish. This is light and crisp in style. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 12.9% Price: $11

MEXICO

WHITE WINES

87 Casa de Piedra 2011 Piedra de Sol Char-donnay (Valle de Guadalupe). The apple

and popcorn aromas are good, and the wine was never aged in a barrel. It feels crisp and flinty, with excellent cut and acidity. Flavors of lemon and tangerine lead to a long, citrusy finish with snap and tang. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $23

87 Moebius 2011 Endemico Muscatel (Val-le de Guadalupe). Tropical aromas of lychee

and green banana are clean and inviting. The palate feels lifted, fresh and easygoing, with lychee, banana and pear flavors. It finishes pure and fairly long. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.8% Price: $19

87 Monte Xanic 2011 Chenin-Colombard (Valle de Guadalupe). The peach, pear and

apple aromas get no interference from oak. The mouth-feel is friendly, while flavors of green melon, pear and

spice work well together. It finishes sweet but with a touch of spice and vanilla. Baja Wines LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Monte Xanic 2011 Viña Kristel Sauvignon Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe). Here’s a true

Sauvignon Blanc with spunky green aromas and plenty of grapefruit. It feels citric and lemony on the tongue, with citrusy flavors of tangerine and lime. It finishes tight and zesty, like a good Sauvignon Blanc should. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Viñas Pijoan 2011 Silvana (Valle de Gua-dalupe). Neutral on the bouquet, this has

clean, stony aromas that set up a surprisingly plump palate with melon and lychee flavors. It finishes a bit soft, but with more than acceptable acidity. It won’t age for too long, but it sure tastes good now. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.6% Price: $19

84 Paralelo 2011 Emblema Sauvignon Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe). Overtly simple and

drying, this has crisp acidity and oily flavors of popcorn and tart white fruits. It finishes with citrus and astrin-gency. This would likely be better with seafood or salad than on its own. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $21

82 Lafarga 2010 Equinoccio Chardonnay (Valle de Guadalupe). Waxy smelling and

gritty, with an oily overtone, this feels O.K. but sort of wayward, with flavors of bitter grapefruit and match-stick. Simple and somewhat sour on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

81 Viñas de Garza 2011 Blanco del Rancho Mogorcito (Valle de Guadalupe). This is

nutty and minerally on the nose, and barely citric as far as fruit aromas go. On the palate, there’s bitterness, with a grapefruit tang making up the flavor profile. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

RED WINES

92 Viñas de Garza 2007 Amado IV (Valle de Guadalupe). A world-class wine regardless of

origin, this Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo and Zinfandel blend is as full as they come, with allur-ing black cherry, cola and graphite aromas. The mouth-feel is smooth and rich, with a wave of cola, molasses and chocolate along with black cherry and blackberry. Sweet, dark, smoky and long on the finish. Drink now–2014. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $54

91 El Sombrero 2009 Red (Valle de Gua-dalupe). Ripe and rich, but not dull or out

of whack, this smells sweet, a little soupy and densely fruity, with a cumin accent. It feels concentrated and full bodied, with black fruit flavors of roasted plum and blackberry. It’s mellow, dealing brown sugar on the fin-

ish. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo; drink now–2013. Baja Wines LLC. Edi-tors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $108

91 Vinisterra 2007 Pedregal Syrah-Mourve-dre (San Antonio de las Minas Valley).

This red blend of 67% Syrah and 33% Mourvedre im-mediately announces itself as serious and classy. The bouquet is layered with berry fruit and baking spice aromas that aren’t hard or pushy. It feels stout and se-cure, with its structure supporting flavors of concentrat-ed berry, pepper and baking spice. The long finish keeps its form. Drink now–2015. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $45

90 Paralelo 2009 Hotel 5 Estrellas (Valle de Guadalupe). A blend of Tempranillo, Cab-

ernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Grenache and Cinsault, this smells spicy and earthy, with cola, leather and dusty ber-ry aromas. Focused and pure feeling, it bears flavors of berry, plum, cherry, caramel and vanilla cream. Light-ly stewed on the finish, but it’s excellent overall. Drink now–2015. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

90 Tres Valles 2010 Jalá (Valle de Guada-lupe). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and

Grenache is clean, pure and 100% balanced. Aromas of fresh berry, rubber and baking spice lead to berry, plum and chocolate flavors. Smooth on the finish, with purity and length. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

89 Rincón de Guadalupe 2008 Tempranillo (San Vicente). Arguably Baja’s best varietal

Tempranillo, this 350-case production is round, clean and fruity on the bouquet, with brown sugar and molas-ses along with big black-fruit aromas. It feels full, tannic and balanced, with sweet plum, chocolate and berry-syrup flavors. This is more than generous on the finish. Drink now–2014. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $36

89 Viñas de Garza 2007 Colina Norte (Val-le de Guadalupe). Tight, earthy and focused

up front, this has attractive berry and cola aromas. It feels jammy, flush and lush, then tastes equally jam-my and rich, with plum and berry flavors that seem baked and warm. Candied tasting on the finish, but fresh enough in feel. This is a blend of Tempranillo, Grenache and Carignan. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $54

88 La Lomita 2009 Singular (Valle de Guada-lupe). Roasted berry, dry oak, bacon, leather,

graphite and spice aromas come together on the nose. It feels jammy, thick and chewy, with full tannins setting up flavors of baked berry and molasses. It finishes simi-larly, with a rich, full texture and a candied flavor. This is a blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 10% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $40

88 Rincón de Guadalupe 2008 Brisas del Sur (San Vicente). Sweet, earthy and dry

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smelling, with tobacco and savory soy aromas. Toma-toey acids pushing raspberry, plum, vanilla and tobacco flavors. Oak-based vanilla and tomato flavors are also present on the finish, which is fresh and lively. Only 250 cases made. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $26

88 Viñas Pijoan 2009 Doménica (Valle de Guadalupe). This is light on the nose, with al-

most airy aromas of raspberry and cherry. Fuller and more grabby in the mouth, it has firm tannins and sweet flavors of berry and cherry darkened by a toasty accent. A little fiery on the finish, it has mild heat that food will tame. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $22

88 Vinisterra 2007 Macouzet Syrah (Valle de Guadalupe and Santo Tomás). Relying on

fruit from the Guadalupe and Santo Tomás valleys, this wine shows a core red-berry aroma that settles on cas-sis and cherry notes. It’s bright, acidic and fruity, with wild berry, plum and brown sugar flavors. This is long and powerful on the finish due to its juicy acidity. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $30

87 Monte Xanic 2008 Gran Ricardo (Valle de Guadalupe). Spicy and exotic smelling, this

bears aromas of tobacco, blueberry and cumin. It feels heavy, grabby and supertannic, with mildly herbal fla-vors of peppery berry fruit and chocolate. Prune, berry and earth notes work the finish on this meaty, tannic big boy. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $52/1.5 L

87 HQSA 2009 Xikbal Baja (Valle de Guada-lupe). This is spicy and dusty on the nose, with a

hint of agave and roasted berry aromas. Feels full, good and zesty, with driving black-cherry, plum and raspberry flavors. It shows herbal shadings and fresh tomato on the finish. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with Syrah and Carignan. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Viñas Pijoan 2010 Convertible Rojo (Val-le de Guadalupe). Winemaker/owner Pau Pi-

joan’s tribute to fast, fun cars is encapsulated in this racy red blend of Ruby Cabernet (motor), Petit Sirah (turbo charger), Barbera (transmission) and Colombard (sus-pension). It’s strapping and shows a lot of acid, while the flavors of berry, cherry and chocolate are good but monotone. This is fruity, flavorful and not complicated. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $21

86 La Lomita 2009 Pagano Grenache (Valle de Guadalupe). Opaque in color, with smoky

aromas of bacon, berry purée, latex and dried herbs. Feels saturated and grapy, with big, plodding tannins in front of soft, stewed flavors of blackberry and prune. Darkens up on what amounts to a soft finish. Pure Gr-enache. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

86 Mogor Badan 2009 Red (Valle de Guada-lupe). This is slightly stalky and burnt smell-

ing, with briary aromas. It feels choppy, with roasted fla-

vors of plum and berry. It finishes with the same herbal, Bordeaux-style flavors that give the palate an Old World character. Not as good as the 2008. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

86 Tres Valles 2009 Elegancia Shiraz (Val-le de Guadalupe). Dense cherry, plum and

black currant aromas carry a note of latex as well as ba-con. Feels fiery and powerful, not elegant or lifted, with untamed, slightly syrupy flavors of plum, berry, choco-late and cough medicine. Powerful Shiraz that seems more boozy than its listed 14% abv. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

85 Lafarga 2008 Equinoccio Nebbiolo (Valle de Guadalupe). Dense, heavy and meaty on

the nose, this has stewed plum and earth notes. Heavy tannins make it grabby, while the flavors suggest stewed black fruits. Roasted tasting, it hits hard on the finish. Entirely different from Italian Nebbiolo. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $45

84 Monte Xanic 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle de Guadalupe). Smoky, oaky and pep-

pery up front, with balsamic berry aromas and tree bark notes. It feels thick, creamy and a little awkward, with heavy oak flavors, related spice and savory, stewy notes. As it unwinds it’s chunky and heavy, with a sweet molas-ses note on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

83 Tres Valles 2009 Maat Grenache (Val-le de Guadalupe). Hot and heavy from first

whiff, this has plastic and red pepper notes, with a sweet strawberry aroma. It’s thick as syrup on the palate, with extracted, fully ripe flavors of blackberry and raisin. Maat means “the land” in a native language; but it could mean syrupy sweet. Hard to believe this is just 13.5% abv. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

83 Vinisterra 2008 Dominó (Valle de Gua-dalupe and Santo Tomás). This wine opens

with pepper, leather and stalky berry aromas. It feels sticky in the mouth, with stalky, buttery berry flavors that fall off rather quickly. Sweet but that’s about it on the finish. Tempranillo, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvè-dre. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $19

82 Emevé 2009 Shiraz (Valle de Guadalupe). This has aromas of smashed berry and red lico-

rice candy. It feels raspy and resiny, with flavors of toast-ed oak and jammy blueberry and raspberry. It’s wiry and lacking finesse on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23

81 La Escuelita 2008 Txtura 3 Carignan (Val-le de Guadalupe). Baked and bricky smell-

ing, with notes of applesauce and blueberry. It feels snappy with edgy tannins. Cranberry and spice flavors lead to a scouring finish; 100% Carignan. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

80 Emevé 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle de Guadalupe). Briary on the nose, this has

disjointed aromas of plum, cinnamon and wet cement. It’s jumpy, acidic and not very well balanced, with tart red-plum and cherry flavors. It feels edgy and gritty, with an almost sour finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $24

80 Vinisterra 2011 Dominó Cinsault (San Antonio de las Minas Valley). Slightly sweet

on the nose, but wheaty and grassy too. It tastes like clay and bubble gum, with a touch of peach and citrus. It’s acidic on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.2% Price: $15

CALIFORNIA

CHARDONNAY

96 Joseph Phelps 2010 Pastorale Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Undoubt-

edly the greatest Chardonnay the winery has ever pro-duced, this is as rich as any Chardonnay on the market. Notes of tropical fruit, green apple and crème brûlée mesh with vibrant minerality that’s steely, chalky and tangy. Although it tastes of honey, the finish is complete-ly dry. This might even develop earthy, nutty complexi-ties as it ages. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

94 Joseph Phelps 2010 Freestone Vine-yards Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For

full review see page 4.abv: 13.5% Price: $55

94 Migration 2010 Dierberg Vineyard Char-donnay (Santa Maria Valley). Rich, opulent

and balanced, this has a wealth of orange and tropical fruit flavors, with spicy, caramelly oak and layers of with buttered toast and honey. Vibrant coastal acidity pro-vides essential lift to this elaborate Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

94 Parallel 2010 Chardonnay (Russian Riv-er Valley). So rich, so opulent, this is fantastic

to enjoy now. It really nails it, with intricate flavors of buttered toast, butterscotch, honey and vanilla that ride high on top of the pineapple and tropical fruit flavors. The winery is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, but with this release, it’s competing at the highest level of quality Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $48

93 Baldacci 2010 Sorelle Chardonnay (Carneros). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.4% Price: $38

93 Marimar Estate 2008 Dobles Lías Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian

River Valley). For full review see page 5.abv: 14.4% Price: $45

93 Matanzas Creek 2009 Chardonnay (So-noma County). Unbelievably rich, this tastes

pretty much as excellent as the winery’s more expensive Chardonnays. It really dazzles with its complex flavors of tropical fruit, green apple, pear, buttered toast and


honey. It’s all brightened by terrific acidity and wrapped into a creamy texture. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $26

93 Migration 2010 Split Rail Vineyard Char-donnay (Anderson Valley). With rich, hon-

eyed flavors of apricots and oranges, this flashy, dramat-ic Chardonnay seemingly tastes as sweet as a pastry, but the amazing thing is that it’s actually dry. It’s brisk in coastal acidity, with complex nuances of toasty oak and a creamy mouthfeel. For drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $45

93 Shafer 2010 Red Shoulder Ranch Char-donnay (Carneros). Another terrific offering

from Shafer, this is a wine that seems to do well regard-less of the vintage. It always shows a firm minerality and slight herbaceousness, with tropical fruit flavors and a smoky coating of fine oak. It’s a shade less opulent than the 2009, making this very elegant and refined, yet still rich and complex. Don’t drink it too cold—airing brings out subtle nuances. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $48

93 Thomas Fogarty 2009 Damiana Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz

Mountains). This vineyard has been source to some of Fogarty’s greatest Chardonnays, and this 2009 bottling continues the tradition of excellence. It’s bone dry and tart in acidity, with smoky oak and lees influences. But the real star of the wine is the fruit; the flavors of lemon and lime custard, papaya, guava and nectarine are deli-cious. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

93 Thomas Fogarty 2009 Portola Springs Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay

(Santa Cruz Mountains). The closest thing in Cali-fornia you can get to a great French Chablis, this is ab-solutely dry, high in acidity and streamlined. It offers tantalizing citrus rind and peach fruit flavors, with a sa-vory taste of cold minerals. Fans of rich, buttery Char-donnay will find it lean, but if you have a cellar, age it for six years and see how it evolves. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

92 Houdini 2010 Dean Block Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. Ed-

itors’ Choice. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

92 Migration 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.1% Price: $30

92 Migration 2010 Charles Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Showing the

richness of the vineyard, this delivers huge, flamboyant flavors of apricot and tangerine jam. While it’s technical-ly dry, there’s a honeyed sweetness that suggests a touch of botrytis. It’s a strong wine, unafraid to command a boldness that may not be for everyone. This is distinctly Californian in style, and as it loses fruit with age, it will develop nut and earthy notes. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $55

92 Pessagno 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).

For full review see page 7.abv: 14.8% Price: $32

92 Pessagno 2009 Intrinity Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Pessagno’s Char-

donnays are always big and strong wines, as befits their growing conditions in the cool foothills of the coastal Monterey mountains. This is monumental in fruit, bursting at the seams with ripe apricots and tangerines, sweetened with honey, yet finishing dry. It’s a wine to pair with elaborate fare. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

92 Robert Mondavi 2010 Reserve Chardon-nay (Carneros). This bottling always strives

to avoid a heavy hand and express more of a terroir- driven Chardonnay. This is bone dry, tart in mouthwater-ing acidity and complex in citrus, tropical fruit and herb flavors. It’s not an opulent attention getter, but instead prefers to seduce through subtlety and nuance. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Stephen Ross 2010 Bien Nacido Vine-yards Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley).

Delicious and crisp in acidity, this is dry despite its fla-vors of honey and ripe, jammy tropical fruit. How this wine achieves such a quality is magic, but the brisk acid-ity helps, as does its stony minerality. Ready to enjoy now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

92 Thomas Fogarty 2009 Albutom Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz

Mountains). Some will find this Chardonnay severe and lacking in richness as it’s marked by dryness, min-erality and acidity, rather than tropical fruit and sweet oak.It would not be surprising if this wine made gains in 5–6 years, but even if it doesn’t, it defines a more elegant style. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $50

92 Thomas Fogarty 2009 Langley Hill Vine-yard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa

Cruz Mountains). Fogarty continues its streak of great, Chablis-style Chardonnays with this single-vine-yard bottling. True afficionados will love the dryness, acidity and minerality, which give it such great struc-ture. The severity is relieved by flavors of citrus zest and white peach, and the creamy sourdough richness imparted by lees aging. Try aging it for at least six years. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $50

92 White Oak 2010 Estate Grown Chardon-nay (Russian River Valley). For full review

see page 7.abv: 14.3% Price: $24

92 Windstream 2010 Sarmento Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).

Insanely rich, this explodes in the mouth with orange, pineapple, apricot, tropical fruit and sweet new-oak fla-vors. The richness is tempered with crisp acidity and a minerality that tastes like a lick of cold steel. This is a

good price for a Santa Lucia Chardonnay this rich and appealing. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Cuvaison 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). The winery strikes a happy balance between

richness and elegant austerity with this bone-dry of-fering. It’s minerally and reserved, offering intrigu-ing hints of apricots and tropical fruits, with notes of buttered toast and smoky vanilla of new oak that many Chardonnay lovers crave. With 29,000 cases produced, this should be relatively easy to find. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

91 Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Chardonnay (Carneros). For full review see page 7. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

91 Saracina 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay (Mendocino County). With a very pretty

nose of perfumed pear, green apple and lime, this uno-aked Chardonnay is nicely soft and easy to drink. Made from organic Chardonnay and a touch of Viognier, this smells and tastes of summer. Even without a hint of oak this retains plenty of richness and a fresh vibrancy on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

90 Riverbench 2011 Bedrock Chardon-nay (Santa Maria Valley). This never went

through malolactic fermentation, resulting in a beau-tiful, food-friendly offering. First noticed is the brisk acidity that’s like a squeeze of sweet Meyer lemon, brightening the tropical fruit and pear flavors. Then the wine’s intensity and complexity sink in, leading to a long, spicy finish. Pair this with Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

90 Saxon Brown 2009 Durell Vineyard Char-donnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a very rich,

elaborate Chardonnay, detailed with pineapple, pear, and apricot flavors, and a coating of sweetly smoked, vanilla-tinged oak. The acidity is brisk and fine. It’s com-plex and impressive, yet its high alcohol and some over-ripeness suggest that it’s not ageable—drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

90 Sonoma-Loeb 2010 Envoy Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is the winery’s

most expensive Chardonnay, and it’s also easily their best. It shows the ripe, flashy opulence that makes Chardonnay America’s favorite white, with an array of pineapple and orange pie flavors. Beyond the richness, there’s good acidity and a clean, brisk finish. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

90 Von Holt 2010 Heintz Vineyard Chardon-nay (Sonoma Coast). Flavors of toasty oak,

butter cream, ripe tangerine and pear combine in this dry, pleasantly complex effort. It’s properly brisk in acid-ity, with a long, spicy finish of pie spice and vanilla bean notes. Don’t drink it too cold. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $35

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89 Joullian 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).

This shows the two classic markers of this vineyard: brisk, mouthwatering acidity and superripe flavors. The orange and peach notes meld with an apricot tone, which may have a touch of botrytis, lending a hint of honey. For all the richness, it’s bone dry and minerally. Lovely now, but these Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Char-donnays age interestingly, gradually losing fruit and gaining nut and earthy notes. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $33

89 Stephen Ross 2010 Chardonnay (San-ta Barbara County). Rich, forward and de-

licious, this has pineapple and peach jam flavors, with elaborate notes of buttered toast and caramel from the oak aging. It finishes dry. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

88 Amos Cellars 2010 Churner Chardonnay (Central Coast). Crisp and lean, with mineral,

lemon and ripe grapefruit flavors, this is enriched with a sweet note of honey. The acidity is keen, and while the wine is a little severe, it’s so elegant. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

88 Joullian 2010 RogerRose Vineyard Char-donnay (Arroyo Seco). Fine acidity, dryness

and a cold minerality undergird the tropical fruit fla-vors, making it particularly likeable and food friendly. It showcases the ability of this little appellation in the middle of the Salinas Valley, just below the Santa Lucia Highlands, to ripen white wines. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $29

88 Justin 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Bone dry, acidic and subtle in citrus and tropical

fruit flavors, this is a Chardonnay that doesn’t insist on standing on its own. Instead, it’s perfectly content to let the food star, remaining in a supporting role. For pair-ings, lobster risotto comes to mind, or just a delicious mayonnaise-based sandwich. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $19

88 Shale Canyon 2010 Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). Brisk acidity and a steely, minerally dry-

ness make this Chardonnay particularly savory. The citrus flavors suggest limes and Meyer lemons, with sugges-tions of toast and vanilla. It’s an elegant wine and easily worth the price. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $20

88 The Federalist 2010 Chardonnay (Rus-sian River Valley). Here’s a racy, chiseled

Chardonnay, with a pleasant veneer of smoky, buttered toast from new oak that enriches the lime and peach fruit. Elegant rather than powerful, it’s a food-friendly wine. Try with lobster risotto. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

87 Artesa 2010 Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Carneros). This oozes with sweet oak, honey

and buttered toast flavors, with added notes of pineap-ple cream and peach jam. Few Chardonnays are this opulent; it will have its fans among those who love this style. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

87 Dierberg 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Ripe and oaky, this offers the sweet

fruit and buttered toast flavors Chardonnay lovers crave. It tastes like a candy bar, with pineapple, mango, roasted almond and honeyed granola flavors, all bright-ened with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

87 Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Foggy Oaks Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Some

new oak lends a sweet, smoky edge of buttered toast to this ripe Chardonnay. Its pineapple and pear flavors are highlighted by crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

87 Icaria 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Alexan-der Valley). This has everything that many

people love about Chardonnay: It’s creamy, buttery and toasty, with sweet tropical fruit and pear flavors. It’s pretty flashy. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

87 Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Select Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley). This

is the oaked version of Jason-Stephens’s estate-grown Chardonnay. It’s rich and deep, yet still smooth, with the grape’s trademark apple crispness. The finish lingers with an apple pie note. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

87 MacPhail 2010 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This shows

the apricot jam richness often found in California’s cool-climate vineyards. There may even be a touch of botrytis, although the wine is thoroughly dry. It’s brisk in acidity and well-oaked; big and rich, it’s almost a cocktail by itself. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

87 Stephen Ross 2010 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). This is rich and appealing in orange

and lemon marmalade and buttered toast flavors. It’s delicious, balanced by crisp acidity and minerality. A flashy wine worth drinking now for its freshness and vi-cacity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

87 Wayne Gretzky Estates 2010 No. 99 Char-donnay (Sonoma County). The price is very

good for what you get: a dry, creamy Chardonnay, with tropical fruit, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. A good job by the ice hockey great. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

86 Fleur 2010 Chardonnay (North Coast). A solid Chardonnay, this is dry, rich and creamy,

with lemon, lime and tropical fruit flavors. A touch of oak brings a nice note of buttered toast. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $13

86 Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Chardon-nay (Santa Clara Valley). This is a stainless-

steel-aged Chardonnay with splendid streaks of lemon, honey and kiwi that surround a core of tart apple. It’s bal-anced with good acidity that greets you on the entrance and on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $20

86 Lockwood 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey County). This has slender flavors of tangerine

and peach. It’s elegantly dry, clean and brisk in acidity, with a light touch of smoky oak—definitely worth the price. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 McManis 2011 Chardonnay (River Junc-tion). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Riverbench 2010 Estate Grown Chardon-nay (Santa Maria Valley). This is a fairly sim-

ple wine. Although it’s rich in apricot, orange and tropi-cal fruit flavors, not to mention oak, it’s a little overripe and seemingly sweet. The vanilla and buttered toast fla-vors will appeal to many. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

86 Stemmler 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). Sweet oak and buttered toast flavors dominate

this Chardonnay. Underneath there are flavors of pine-apple, pear and orange. It’s rich, dry and bright in acid-ity. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $34

86 Walt 2010 La Brisa Chardonnay (Sonoma County). This is pretty standard, with good

acidity pervading tropical fruit flavors. There’s a rich overlay of sweet oak. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

86 William Hill Estate 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Rich and buttery, this has

smoky oak and toast flavors that frame the pineapple and orange jam notes. Not overly complicated, this is made in a way that appeals to Chardonnay lovers. Pro-duction was a hefty 16,500 cases. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

85 Cable Car 2010 Chardonnay (Lodi). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Edna Valley). New oak stands

out in this slightly sweet Chardonnay, giving a butter-scotch taste to the pineapple and fig fruit. It has pleas-ant acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $28

85 Five Rows 2011 Chardonnay (California). There’s lots of sweet oak in this wine, with domi-

nant flavors of buttered toast, buttered popcorn and va-nilla. Underneath there’s some nice apricot and tanger-ine fruit. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $14

85 Gracianna 2011 Suzanne’s Blend Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). This tastes

a little vegetal, but it’s dry, crisp and creamy, with decent orange and peach flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $34

85 House Band NV Chardonnay (California). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.

abv: 13.8% Price: $5/375 ml


85 Kunde 2010 Kinneybrook Vineyard Char-donnay (Sonoma Valley). Seemingly sweet

and oaky, this has buttered popcorn, buttered toast and caramel cream flavors. The fruit suggests pineapples and pears. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

85 Sean Minor 2010 Chardonnay (Central Coast). There’s lots of zesty acidity in this ripe,

forward Chardonnay. It features fruity flavors of oranges and apricots, with a touch of oak that lends a buttered toast note. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

84 Arrow Creek 2011 Coastal Series Char-donnay (California). Modest orange and

peach flavors are found in this oak-tinged wine. It offers the Chardonnay lover good pleasure. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

84 Black Box 2011 Chardonnay (California). A good Chardonnay to serve at parties, this

shows plenty of oak-driven vanilla and toast flavors that ride high over the seemingly sweet note of pineapple candy. It will satisfy lots of Chardophiles, at an afford-able price. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L

84 Chime 2010 Chardonnay (Napa County). Simple and strongly flavored, this is powerful in

pear, vanilla and buttered toast notes. There’s not much subtlety, but it will satisfy fans of this style. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $19

84 Hess Collection 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A simple Chardonnay, this seems

sweet in pineapple and peach jam notes, with but-tered toast and honey flavors from oak. Flashy, but one- dimensional. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $22

84 Matchbook 2010 Old Head Chardonnay (Dunnigan Hills). This crisp Chardonnay has

a disjointedness about it. Its aroma and flavor is most akin to Lemonheads candy. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

84 Newton 2009 Unfiltered Chardonnay (Napa County). There’s a nice Chardonnay

down underneath all the oak, but it’s hard to find be-low the buttered toast and caramel richness. It would be nice to taste an unoaked version, to appreciate the acidity and pineapple fruit. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

84 San Simeon 2009 Chardonnay (Mon-terey). Extracted and oaky, this will appeal to

those who enjoy the popular style. It’s strong in but-tered toast and butterscotch flavors, with a pineapple jam note. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $18

83 Greystone 2011 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). An everyday Chardonnay, this has but-

tered toast, butterscotch candy and pineapple flavors. It’s clean and brisk in acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

82 J. Wilkes 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Ma-ria Valley). Seemingly overly oaked and ma-

nipulated, this is all about buttered toast and buttered popcorn flavors, slathered over a note of pineapple jam. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $18

82 Lost Angel 2010 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). Seemingly sweet and simple, this has or-

ange and butterscotch candy flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

81 Snapping Turtle 2011 Chardonnay (Cal-ifornia). Simple and seemingly sweet, this

Chardonnay has apricot jam flavors. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $11

VIOGNIER

91 Chalk Hill 2010 Viognier (Chalk Hill). This is a rich, flamboyant Viognier, showing lots of

ripe, fruity flavors and a nice burst of acidity. It’s high in alcohol, which gives some prickly heat, but the pine-apple custard, tangerine and crème brûlée flavors are frankly delicious. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $40/375 ml

88 10 Knots 2010 Viognier (Paso Robles). Textbook Viognier—this is ripe and exotic in

tropical fruit, white flower and honey flavors. It’s tech-nically dry, but so rich you’d swear there was some residual sugar. With its strong texture and full body, this is an interesting alternative to a big Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

87 Wattle Creek 2010 Viognier (Alexander Valley). Showing the rich, exotic side of Viog-

nier, this has ripe, flamboyant flavors of tropical fruit, white flower and spice. It has a controlled dryness and citrusy acidity; this is a lovely, versatile white. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

82 Cline 2011 Viognier (North Coast). This seems designed to appeal to the Moscato-loving

crowd. It has sweet flavors, with apricot and tangerine notes that taste like fruit juice. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $12

RIESLING

89 Pessagno 2010 La Estancia Vineyard Riesling (Santa Lucia Highlands). This

is one of the best California Rieslings available in this price range. It’s bone dry and mouthwateringly acidic, with racy citrus flavors and a tart, tannic tang of apple skin. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $16

88 Wente 2010 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo Seco). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 12.5% Price: $13

87 Santa Barbara Winery 2010 Lafond Vine-yard Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). This falls

right in the middle of the winery’s dry and sweet Ries-lings, with a suggestion of honey to the apricot, tanger-

ine and vanilla flavors. It would be a wonderful compan-ion to modern Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

87 Santa Barbara Winery 2009 Lafond Vine-yard Dry Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). This is,

as the label says, a dry Riesling, but it’s not without rich-ness. With lemon, lime, apricot and Asian pear flavors, it has wonderful acidity. It would be great with today’s complex Asian-fusion fare. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $18

85 Hacienda 2010 Riesling (California). Crisp acidity gives this off-dry Riesling just the

edge of tartness it needs to balance out the sweet citrus and flower flavors. It’s the perfect inexpensive summer picnic white wine. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

84 Black Box 2011 Riesling (California). This is a very nice Riesling for drinking with today’s

ethnic fare. Although it’s softer than you’d expect from this normally tart varietal, it’s clean and spicy, with cit-rus, flower and honey flavors. The sweetness level is off-dry. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $25/3 L

83 Coastal Ridge 2010 Riesling (California). If you like your white wines fruity and sweet,

this one’s for you. It has pretty flavors of peaches, honey and spices. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

82 ForestVille 2010 Riesling (California). Sweet, soft and simple, this has candied lemon

and pineapple flavors. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $7

SAUVIGNON BLANC

93 Robert Mondavi 2010 To Kalon Vineyard Reserve Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley). A gor-

geous Sauvignon Blanc, so rich and refined. It’s almost as full bodied as a Chardonnay, with dense flavors of citrus and tropical fruits, gooseberries and minerals, but with that sleek, bone-dry, acidic refinement expect-ed from this variety. Production was a mere 984 cases. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Cosa Obra 2011 Hummingbird Hill Vine-yard Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast).


90 Robert Mondavi 2010 Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley). Fumé Blanc is just another name for

Sauvignon Blanc, and this is a delicious one. Dry and racy in acidity, it has deep citrus, tropical fruit and goose-berry flavors. At this price, it’s one of the best Sauvignon Blancs on the market. Relatively easy to find, with more than 30,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

89 Casey Flat Ranch 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Capay Valley). From Casey Flat’s 2,000-feet-

high estate near Sacramento, this is a creamy, volup-

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tuous Sauvignon Blanc that has reams of texture. It re-tains a lot of acidity and is rich and fruity, with a seam-less midpalate. Its richness comes from extended skin contact and lees stirring. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $23

88 Bell 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake Coun-ty). Light, fruity and clean, this was aged in all

stainless steel, showing delicious tones of tangerine and lemon peel and a crisp, long finish, with a soft touch all around. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Casey Flat Ranch 2011 Open Range Sau-vignon Blanc (California). Sourced from

both Mendocino and Lake counties, this is Casey Flat Ranch’s accessible, affordable Sauvignon Blanc. Full of bright tropical fruit and lemon aromas, this is true to the varietal, with plenty of acidity to match well with food. An addition of 5% Viognier is blended in. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $15

88 Matanzas Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Bennett Valley). There’s a touch of honeyed

sweetness to this wine that gives it a softly appealing taste. The orange, apricot, tropical fruit and vanilla fla-vors are absolutely delicious, while there’s just enough acidity to lift and balance the richness. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $30

88 Matanzas Creek 2011 Helena Bench Sauvignon Blanc (Knights Valley). There’s

no oak at all on this Sauvignon Blanc, which lets the fruit stand front and center. It’s good fruit, too, rich in apricots, tangerines and tropical fruits, with a good cut of acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Pomelo 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali-fornia). This is a large-production Sauvignon

Blanc that tastes delicious. If you like grapefruit and pomelo flavors, you will love this enticingly priced white that’s got razor sharp acidity, a touch of New Zealand-like grass and a long finish. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $10

88 Saracina 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Men-docino County). A full and creamy style of

Sauvignon Blanc, this has a lot of dense almond and vanilla notes set against high tones of bright peach and flint. With its great, fresh acidity, it will hold up against an appetizer like goat cheese on crackers. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $23

88 Shed Horn Cellars 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). This Sauvignon Blanc opens

with beautiful flowery aromas. It’s crisp and complex, bearing intense notes of grapefruit and mineral, with a kick of lime on the finish. This would go very well with seafood or spicy Thai. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

87 Duckhorn 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). With vibrant acidity and a keen taste of

mineral—like a lick of cold steel—this Sauvignon Blanc is also rich in citrus and tropical fruit flavors. A touch of oak and lees aging imparts a creamy, smoky yeasti-

ness. More importantly, it has a seemingly sweet finish, so pair accordingly with appropriate fare. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

87 Gregory Graham 2011 Windrem Vine-yards Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County).

Working with a new vineyard source, Gregory Graham has made a sweetly perfumed white, with pretty grape-fruit and lime notes. Its well-integrated and layered with flavor. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Lockwood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Mon-terey County). This is a stylish wine for a

cocktail sipper or to drink with foods ranging from fried chicken to sushi. It’s crisp in coastal acidity and ripe in citrus, melon and tropical fruit flavors. While there’s a taste of honey, it finishes dry. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

87 Maddalena 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles). Bone dry and tart in acidity, this has

mouthwatering citrus and apricot flavors, with a clean elegance. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Matanzas Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County). This tastes like a slightly

sweet lemon-, orange- and mango-juice drink, with lots of citrusy acidity and a pleasant burn of alcohol. Deli-cious and savory, it will be a good companion to Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Rock Wall 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). This smells of lemon cream and pear,

with dark, ripe and creamy layers of vanilla and fig, and a nuttiness, too. Stainless-steel fermented, it’s a lovely example of how this variety thrives in Lake County. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

87 Shooting Star 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). Full of fig and grapefruit

flavor, this was never aged in oak. A small addition of Sémillon adds to its richness and long finish. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $12

87 Six Sigma 2011 Asbill Valley Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). With lilting lemon,

grapefruit and pretty pineapple aromas and flavors, this is a good example of Lake County Sauvignon Blanc. It’s light and bright, and the flavors on the finish veer into equally pleasing peach and apricot notes, with a touch of almond. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2011 Laguna Vista Vineyards Sur Lees Selection Sau-

vignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). This wine’s green-ness shows that it’s not quite ripe, but it’s an interesting wine. Dry, racy and creamy, this is not without complex-ity. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

87 Vigilance 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Red Hills Lake County). Balanced and affordable,

this is an example of a straightforward, well-nourished

Sauvignon Blanc, bursting with stone fruit and melon flavors, with Lake County’s typical hints of lemongrass and pear—particularly on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

86 Carr 2011 Dos Viñedos Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). This shows the racy

crispness and clean profile of Santa Ynez Sauvignon Blancs, with delicious tropical fruit and citrus flavors. However, it seems to have some sweetness, which makes it taste a little like fruit juice. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $18

86 Geyser Peak 2011 Block Collection Riv-er Ranches Sauvignon Blanc (Russian

River Valley). Perhaps this wine could be drier, as the orange and apricot flavors seem to finish with a touch of sweetness. Still, it’s clean and brisk in acidity. This should pair well with slightly sweet Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Girard 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). Clean and savory, this has jammy orange

and apricot flavors, which finish with a touch of honey. The acidity is bright and zesty. The chilly vintage shows in the form of a touch of green mint. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $16

86 Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Livermore Valley). A straight-

forward Sauvignon Blanc, this has hints of cheese rind and lemon swirling within fistfuls of minerality that may need more time to settle down. But Occasio is a name to trust, and it should develop more flair with a bit of bottle age and/or air. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Provenance Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). This is rich in citrus and

tropical fruits, with bright acidity that really cleans the palate. It seems to tread the line between dry and off-dry, and it shows real elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $22

86 Provenance Vineyards 2011 Wildwood Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford).

If you’re into dry table wines, you should know this seems to have a touch of sweetness. It has orange, apri-cot and vanilla flavors that are fortunately brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Wattle Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (York ville Highlands). With layers of nutty,

toasty oak flavors lingering in the background, this is a Sauvignon Blanc with lushness to its core of melon, gua-va and grass notes. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

86 Wildhurst 2011 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). With no time spent in oak,

this bright, simple Sauvignon Blanc has pear, grapefruit and gooseberry notes and a quick finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

85 Bogle 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor-nia). Easy to drink, with plenty of charm, this


shows orange, lime and tropical fruit flavors, brightened with crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Chacewater 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). Made from organically grown grapes,

this crisp white flirts dangerously with herb and grass tones—what is often called gooseberry—before settling down. It’s quite drinkable, if a bit heavy on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $14

85 Clos du Lac 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Ama-dor County). Opening with a bouquet of dried

apricot and almond paste, this is a full style of Sauvignon Blanc, with tons of lemon on the finish. Pair this with seafood. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

85 Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). With no oak, what

you taste is the purity of the grapes. It’s a good Sauvi-gnon Blanc, dry and crisp in acidity, with streamlined lime and grapefruit flavors, with a hint of sweet pea. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

85 Frog’s Leap 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). A simple Sauvignon Blanc, this

is dry and mouthwateringly tart. The lemon and lime flavors have a green edge of gooseberry. —S.H. abv: 12.6% Price: $20

85 Provenance Vineyards 2011 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford).

Nice and crisp in acidity, with a brisk, clean mouthfeel, this houses citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It seems a little sweet, so don’t expect anything too dry. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

85 Robledo 2011 Seven Brothers Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Lake County). This is a slightly

sweet Sauvignon Blanc that’s shy on the nose, without much depth or breadth. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $22

84 Guenoc 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). Guenoc and Langtry, its parent com-

pany, have made some great Sauvignon Blancs in their time, showcasing Lake County’s good fortune with this grape. This is a good effort, with a prevailing pineapple note. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

84 hy.brid 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). This 100% stainless-steel-aged Sauvignon Blanc has

a crisp, herbal mouthfeel, with a melon-like brightness. Just a touch of green pepper and jalapeño muddle the finish. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $8

84 Pine and Brown 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A simple little Sauvignon

Blanc, this is sweet and soft, with savory pineapple and lemon jam flavors. Oak brings a touch of vanilla and but-tered toast. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

84 Sterling 2011 Vintner’s Collection Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Central Coast). This gets the

job done with classic varietal flavors of lemon, lime and savory green grass, as well as tart acidity to get those tastebuds watering. There’s an off-dry taste of honey, but the wine is basically dry. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 White Oak 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus-sian River Valley). If you like tart, less-than-

ripe Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll enjoy this one. It’s acidic, but relieved by lemon, lime and honey flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $16

83 Decoy 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County). Dry and acidic, this has citrus and

green peppercorn flavors that are barely ripe. If you like the lean style, this is for you. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

83 Sean Minor 2010 Four Bears Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County). With lots of acidity

and seemingly sweet lime, pineapple and tropical fruit flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc has a sweet-sour taste, like Life Savers candy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

82 Ancient Peaks 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles). This wine seems unripe, and

while it’s nicely dry and crisp, it has an aggressive aroma and flavor of tart lime. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

88 Benessere 2010 Pinot Grigio (Carneros). Zesty acidity and tantalizing citrus and spice fla-

vors mark this Pinot Grigio. Nice to drink on its own as an apéritif, this versatile wine will also pair with ethnic fare —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $22

87 J Vineyards & Winery 2011 Pinot Gris (California). There’s a sweet, orange and apri-

cot jamminess to this Pinot Gris that will appeal to fans of the style. It’s brisk in acidity, gaining additional plea-sure from its creamy richness. Try pairing this with a buttery omelet with ham. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

86 Black Box 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). A wonderful Pinot Grigio that’s basically dry and

mouthwateringly crisp in acidity, with lemon and lime flavors. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $25/3 L

WHITE BLENDS

91 Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vine-yard Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian Riv-

er Valley). For full review see page 8.abv: 13.9% Price: $28

85 Peirano 2009 The Other White (Lodi). This Lodi-grown blend of 65% Chardonnay, 25%

Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Viognier smells of marshmal-low, coconut and bubble gum. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

84 Lost Angel 2009 Ruckus White (Califor-nia). Made from a bunch of different varieties,

including Viognier and Pinot Grigio, this white blend is off-dry, with a sweet edge to the orange and peach fruit. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

84 LoveThisLife 2009 White (California). Made to appeal to the modern taste for sweet-

ness, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier is simple in jammy apricot, citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It has bright acidity, which helps balance it. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $13

83 San Antonio 2010 Heritage Blanc (Cen-tral Coast). This is a simple wine, ripe in or-

ange and pineapple flavors, with fine Central Coast acidity. It seems sweet, like a cookie, appealing to those who enjoy this style. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $18

82 Farrier 2009 Andiron Semillon-Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Alexander Valley). Slender

and simple, this has a green asparagus flavor that thins the citrus and pear notes. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

82 Rare NV 4 Grape Blend White Wine (Cali-fornia). This seems so sweet, you could almost

classify it as a dessert wine. It has simple orange, pine-apple and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $10

81 Kenwood 2011 Vintage White (Sonoma County). It’s hard to fall in love with this blend

of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It has unripe green flavors that border on ammonia. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

OTHER WHITE WINES

92 Chappellet 2010 Signature Chenin Blanc (Napa Valley). Racy and brisk, clean and tart,

this shows Meyer lemon, lime, white peach, mineral and white pepper aromas. Thankfully, it’s very dry in taste, with exotic tropical-fruit, cashew and white flower flavors wrapped into a creamy, smoky mouthfeel. One of the best California Chenin Blancs in recent years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

91 La Sirena 2011 Moscato Azul (Napa Val-ley-Paso Robles). Winemaker Heidi Barrett

was making Moscato way before the current craze start-ed, so you can call her a visionary. Her 2011, an unusual blend of fruit from Napa Valley and Paso Robles, is a real crowd pleaser. Tasted in May of 2012, it’s a little spritzy, which gives a nice, clean edge to the orange, vanilla and white flower flavors. While it’s dry, there’s a rich edge of honey. The alcohol is a refeshingly low 12.8% by volume. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $30

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88 Y Rousseau 2011 Old Vines Colombard (Russian River Valley). This wine is strong

in acidity and green, mouthwatering gooseberry flavors. It’s so dry, your palate seeks out whatever fruity relief it can find, which comes in the form of limes, green apples and a squirt of honey. Very clean and elegant. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $18

87 J. Wilkes 2011 Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). This affordable bottling is worth seek-

ing out. It tastes like of a hybrid of Chardonnay and Sau-vignon Blanc, with creamy flavors of oranges and limes, brightened by crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

87 Mahoney 2011 Las Brisas Vineyard Ver-mentino (Carneros). What a delicious,

mouth-watering wine to serve with appetizers. It’s crisp in acidity and rich in orange, apricot and peach flavors that finish a little sweet. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Jacuzzi 2011 Arneis (California). Made in a seemingly off-dry style, this offers simple but

pleasant apricot, peach and white flower flavors, with bright acidity. It’s tastes similar to Pinot Grigio in many respects. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $16

82 Balletto 2009 Estate Bottled Gewürztra-miner (Russian River Valley). This is a soft,

simple wine. It shows good Gewürztraminer character in its spiciness, but it’s mild in flavor, with a sweet fin-ish. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

SPARKLING WINE

85 South Coast NV Ruby Cuvée Syrah (Tem-ecula Valley). South Coast’s winemaker used

100% Syrah from the 2010 vintage to make this fun, red sparkler, which was once upon a time known as Cold Duck. It takes advantage of Syrah’s big, bold berry fla-vors, while smelling intensely sweet, like a Jamba Juice smoothie. Very foamy on opening; let it settle and drink it supercold. —V.B. abv: 12% Price: $22

ROSÉS

89 Isabel Mondavi 2011 Deep Rosé of Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). To call this

rosé deep is an understatement. In color and body, it’s almost a red wine. But it does have the silky delicacy of a blush wine, and is frankly delicious in cherry jam, red licorice and Dr. Pepper flavors. It finishes thoroughly dry, and the acidity is racy. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

89 La Clarine Farm 2011 Syrah-Mourvèdre Rosé (Sierra Foothills). Winemaker Hank

Beckmeyer presses Syrah and Mourvèdre to make this rosé, hoping that in the process he’ll best preserve the wine’s aromas and also keep it tasting fresh. He’s creat-ed a nutty wine that’s dominant in strawberry and stone fruit flavors. It’s very light and dry, leaving you with the

impression of having just bitten into a piece of water-melon. —V.B. abv: 12.7% Price: $16

88 Miraflores 2011 Estate Barbera Rosé (El Dorado). Made from 100% Barbera, this has

perfumed aromatics and flavors of raspberry and peach. It’s sweetness is in check—ideal for food with some heat, like Thai or Mexican. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $17

87 Clos du Lac 2011 Chalaye Rosé (El Dora-do County). Ruby dark in hue, this has a light

fruity aroma of watermelon, strawberry and mint. It’s easy drinking and dry. Its slow buildup of acidity lingers on the finish. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $10

87 Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Rose of Pinot Noir (Livermore Valley). Picked

underripe, the Pinot Noir grapes for this wine spent no time in oak and retained plenty of natural acidity, which accents the thick, intense strawberry and cherry-vanilla flavors that pop on the midpalate. Finishes with some zing, so sip this with or without food. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $22

87 Rock Wall 2011 Uncle Roget’s Gre-nache Rosé (Yolo County). A wisp of a wine

that’s dark-salmon in color, this is made entirely from Grenache grapes grown near the town of Davis. It’s dry, light and fun, offering a strawberry and watermelon fruitiness, with a trace of spice on the end. —V.B. abv: 12% Price: $18

86 Field Stone 2011 Heritage Block Rosé of Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). Full bod-

ied and rich, as you’d expect a Petite Sirah rosé would be, this has cherry and sweet toast flavors, with a certain elegance. The winemaker suggests pairing this with sau-sages. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Matchbook 2011 Rosé of Tempranillo (Dunnigan Hills). A light, dry, and yummy

wine made from Tempranillo, Syrah and Malbec. It has berry and watermelon flavors—even a hint of mint—with a balance of acidity and richness on the finish. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $10

85 Chamisal Vineyards 2011 Estate Bottled Rosé (Edna Valley). Slightly sweet and heavy

on the palate, this has raspberry jam and vanilla flavors.It’s balanced by crisp Edna Valley acidity—a wine that will pair nicely with ham or sausage. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $24

85 MacPhail 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). A little heavy for a rosé, this

has jammy raspberry and cola flavors. But it’s nicely dry, with crisp acidity. Try with tempura or a juicy ham-burger. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

85 Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Rosé of Syr-ah (Sta. Rita Hills). Here’s a simple rosé,

dryish and tart in acidity, with savory flavors of cherry

skin and rose-hip tea, with a squirt of honey. Ham sand-wiches and sausages come to mind as food companions. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $15

84 Curtis 2011 Heritage Rosé (Santa Bar-bara County). This is a ruggedly simple blush

wine, with lots of acidity and some green tea and dried herb flavors. It’s saved by a just-in-time flavor of black cherry candy. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $18

83 Rare NV 4 Grape Blend Rosé (Califor-nia). Simple and silky, this is fairly sweet in

apricot and raspberry fruit. This is easy to drink at pic-nics and similar everyday occasions. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $10

CABERNETS & BLENDS

99 Colgin 2008 IX Estate Red Wine (Napa Valley). This is an absolutely beautiful wine to

drink now, but the richness comes at the price of con-siderable alcohol. The color is dark and impenetrable, the aromas huge in Cabernet-inspired blackberries and black currants, with a touch of something herbal and also a stony minerality. There’s also a fascinating peati-ness, like an Islay Scotch. It really opens up in the glass, becoming ever more complex. It’s great Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, but that high alcohol may limit its ageability. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $290

99 David Arthur 2009 Elevation 1147 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For


98 Von Strasser 2009 Estate Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).


97 Gandona 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A dramatic wine, this is rich,

full bodied and incredibly complex, laced with notes of ripe, sweet blackberries and crème de cassis, with a spirituous heat from relatively high alcohol. Its pedigree is clear throughout the entire tasting experience. This is a really gorgeous Cabernet, showing refinement and grace, but it is very tannic. Give it at least 10 years. Cel-lar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $190

97 Ovid 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). With a beautiful purple color, this wine quickly exhib-

its classic Cabernet aromas of black currants and cedar. In the mouth, it’s full bodied and concentrated, show-ing powerful, sweet blackberry fruit. It’s incredibly re-fined, impressively structured, massive, impeccable and frankly delicious. This should develop over the next 20 years, at least. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $195

96 Bryant Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Rich and smooth in tannins,

with some sharpness through the finish, this shows


masses of ripe blackberries and dark chocolate. A bit of time in the glass reprises and accentuates the choco-laty richness. Despite its power, this is refined and high toned, a serious cellar candidate. Give it 10–15 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $335

96 Duckhorn 2008 Monitor Ledge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is

an extraordinarily ripe, flashy Cabernet Sauvignon, one of Duckhorn’s new red wines that is among the most im-pressive in years. The wine is densely packed in sweet red and black currant fruit, chocolate and licorice fla-vors, wrapped into firm tannins, with a bone-dry finish. Just fantastic to experience now, and it should easily de-velop over at least a decade. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

96 Duckhorn 2008 Patzimaro Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Huge, rich

and flamboyant, this hasa sweetness at its core—like the essence of red and black currants, with an elaborate note of caramel imparted from smoky oak. Yet every-thing about it is utterly and properly dry. The vineyard is in St. Helena, not quite in the Spring Mountain appel-lation, yet showing the fruit concentration firm tannins of mountain-grown grapes. Just a stupendous wine; try after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

96 Montagna 2009 La Presa One South Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Absolutely

delicious and a joy to drink, this tastes like fine blackber-ry preserves spread onto buttered whole-wheat toast, sprinkled with cinnamon and black pepper. Despite the rich sweetness, the finish is bone dry. But the tannins are considerable, giving the mouthfeel a furry astrin-gency. This elegant, pure, young Cabernet should begin to open in 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $125

96 Piña 2009 Ames Vineyard Cabernet Sau-vignon (Oakville). For full review see page 3.

Cellar Selection. abv: 15% Price: $85

96 Von Strasser 2009 Agira Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). An

awesome wine—this is so massively intense in black-berry, blueberry and cassis flavors, it’s hard to believe. From the first sip though the middle palate, it’s seem-ingly sweet with a fruity essence, but the finish is dry and firm. Drink now and for 8–10 years, at the very least. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $80

95 La Sirena 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). You will want to age this Cab-

ernet—8 or 10 years of development is the only way to allow the hard tannins to begin to melt away, allow-ing the fabulous core of blackberries, currants and dark chocolate to emerge. It’s hard to exaggerate the wine’s depth; it’s so elegantly pure, concentrated and focused. Don’t even think of popping the cork before 2018, and it could still be providing pleasure 20 years from now. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $150

95 Von Strasser 2009 Sori Bricco Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun-

tain). This portion of the winery’s vineyard always yields Cabernets of enormous concentration with hard tannins. The 2009 is a classic, detonating in the mouth with laserlike blackberry and cassis flavors, to which new oak brings additional richness of smoky cedar. It’s really a beautiful wine, but very tannic, even by Von Strasser standards. Give it at least eight years, and it could be drinking well 20 years from now. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $80

95 Von Strasser 2009 Spaulding Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Moun-

tain). This has so much rich earth and minerality, it’s like a journey deep into a mine. It’s noted the vines were planted in 1970, and the wine does have that old-vine concentration of fruit in the form of massively in-tense blackberries. Then there’s the smoky new oak, which adds such a lusciously sweet jacket of buttered toast. Tannic and tight in the way of Diamond Mountain Cabernets, this should begin to come into its own after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $80

94 Chappellet 2009 Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review


94 Duckhorn 2008 Rector Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). So

rich and seemingly sweet in black currant, chocolate fudge and toasted oak flavors, you can hardly keep from drinking the whole bottle now. But that would be a mis-take. You don’t want to age it so long that all the fruit drops out, but 8–10 years in the cellar should do just fine. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

94 Duckhorn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). For full review see page

4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

94 Montagna 2009 Tre Vigneti Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This starts out

closed and tight, shut down by tannins and immaturity, but plenty of swirling reveals elusive black-licorice and blackberry notes, accented by smoky oak. The tannins really kick in toward the middle, but hard as they are, they exhibit great breed. Despite its sweet core of fruit, this is nowhere close to being ready. Give it 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $50

94 Parallel 2009 Black Diamonds Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Very rich, ripe and

dramatically textured, this has explosive flavors of black-berry, crème de cassis, dried herb and smoked meat flavors, enriched by smoky oak. It shows the tough, hard tannins you often find in low production mountain Cab-ernets. Made by the well-known consulting winemaker, Philippe Melka, it has the structure of a wine that needs

age. Give it at least eight years, and it could be one that lasts decades. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $125

94 Piña 2009 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see

page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $85

94 Piña 2009 Wolff Vineyard Cabernet Sau-vignon (Yountville). For full review see page

4. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.2% Price: $85

94 Von Strasser 2009 Vineyard 2131 Caber-net Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). Very

pure in blackberries and black currants, this expresses the classic taste of Cabernet Sauvignon. New oak adds a lovely veneer of smoky, cedary cigar box. It’s beautiful to drink now for the soft, velvety texture and appealing-ly sweet complexity, but should age gradually for many years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $80

93 D.R. Stephens 2009 Moose Valley Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

Flashy and delicious, this just blows your mind. It’s like the essence of the ripest, purest blackberries, with a note of crème de cassis and the sweet appeal of melted dark chocolate. It’s a soft wine, but grippy in tannins, which gives it good structure. Your best bet may be to drink it over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $135

93 Duckhorn 2008 The Discussion Estate Grown (Napa Valley). For full review see


93 Korbin Kameron 2008 Cuvée Kristin Es-tate Blend Red Wine (Sonoma Valley).


93 Melanson 2009 Matthew’s Block Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With its big,

hard tannins, this is one for the cellar. There’s a certain austerity that suggests the rocky soils of this mountain vineyard. But the fruit, packed into a dense core, is ripe and suggestive of blackberry and cherries. The youth-ful brawniness softens after some time in the glass or decanter, but you’re best off aging it until 2019 or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $67

93 Topel 2007 Extended Elevage Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). There’s

something about this wine that strongly suggests it will improve in the cellar after a good bit of aging. As it is, it’s dry, smooth, tannic and intense, with concentrated blackberry and black currant flavors, and a buttered toast note from aging in oak. It’s completely delicious, but if you can keep from popping the cork, it should re-ward after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

93 Villa del Lago 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This starts out a bit coarse,

WineMag.com | 55

with strong tannins that have a rough-edged feeling. It’s very rich in blackberries and black currants, but show-ing more power than elegance. Time in the glass cer-tainly opens it up, revealing a rich, heady cassis note. While the alcohol is high, it may easily develop bottle complexity over the next 10–15 years. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $225

93 Von Strasser 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). An enormously ap-

pealing Cabernet, this is nearly as good as the magnifi-cent but more expensive ’09 Estate, showing concen-trated blackberry, blueberry, cassis and mineral flavors that are wrapped into firm Diamond Mountain tannins. Beautiful to drink now and over the next six years. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

93 Von Strasser 2009 Post Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). No-

table for its richness and structure, this offers the most delicious blackberry, cassis and toasted oak flavors. Firm minerality and intense tannins provide a solid founda-tion for all the richness. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $80

93 Wallis Family Estate 2009 Cabernet Sau-vignon (Diamond Mountain). A great follow-

up to the winery’s 2008, this continues a roll of classy Diamond Mountain-based Cabs from Wallis Family. It’s dry, softly tannic and likeable for its depth of blackberry, cherry, currant and cedar flavors. This straddles the line between immediate drinkability and ageability. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $65

92 Cobblestone 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Absolutely delicious, this floods

the mouth with rich flavors of blackberry jam, crème de cassis, cocoa and smoky, buttery oak. It’s soft and gentle, so it may not be one for the cellar, but it sure is great to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $44

92 D.R. Stephens 2009 Walther River Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is

very rich, with flavors of melted milk chocolate, black cherry pie, black currant, toasted almond, brown but-ter and smoky oak. Tastes like a granola candy bar, but a very expensive one, with gorgeous tannins and a long, sweet, mind-blowing finish. It’s hard to imagine aging anything this soft and delicious—drink soon. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $125

92 Korbin Kameron 2007 Estate Grown Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For full

review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

92 La Sirena 2009 Pirate TreasuRed (Napa Valley). Whatever the blend is on this red

wine, and winemaker Heidi Barrett isn’t saying, it’s re-ally interesting. The bottle is old-fashioned and stubby, like something from the 1700s. The wine itself is imme-diately likeable for its spicy array of spices and berries. Despite its upfront appeal, there’s a complexity that el-evates it. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $60

92 Super Sonoman 2008 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Knights Valley). Flashy and delicious,

this could even grow in the bottle with a few years of aging, becoming earthier and drier in fruit. Otherwise, it’s perfectly fine now—a soft, complex wine, with brisk acidity and flavors of blackberry, black currant and mocha. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $85

92 Super Sonoman 2007 Meritage (Sonoma County). Dry, rich and intricate, this is clearly

capable of aging. The tannins are still pretty fierce, and buried under them is a dense core of blackberry and currant fruit—a testament to the near-perfect vintage conditions. The Bordeaux-style blend is mainly based on Cabernet Sauvignon. Give it until 2016. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

91 Kendall-Jackson 2008 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County).

Close in quality to Cabernets costing far more, this has elaborate blackberry, cherry and currant flavors. The all-important mouthfeel is dry and crisp, with fine tan-nins. It’s not an ager, but shows plenty of class. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

91 Markham 2008 The Philanthropist Yount-ville Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Napa Valley). This is bone dry, with plenty of acidity and tough tannins. It’s not offering much relief, despite an evident core of blackberries, currants and cherries. Those tannins really lock the palate down, like a sandpaper straitjacket on the tongue. But you have to consider its origin in Yountville, a cool area noted for ageable wines. It hould begin to resolve its difficulties by 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Meyer Family 2009 Fluffy Billows Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). If the name

of this wine suggests that it’s comforting to drink now, it’s perfectly apt. Although it hails from Oakville, whose Cabernets are among the most ageable in Napa Valley, this shows an accessibility that makes the black currant and cedar flavors immediately appealing. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

91 Wallis Family Estate 2009 Little Sister Red Wine (Diamond Mountain). Delicious

now, this has waves of blackberries, cherries, currants, dark chocolate, spices and oak. It seems almost sweet, but the finish is a swirl of dry tannins. Might develop over the long haul, and will it certainly last to 2015. Give it a few hours in the decanter. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

91 Wattle Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This is classic Alexander

Valley Cabernet Sauvignon—in an old-fashioned way. That’s not a back-handed compliment, it’s a testimony to the wine’s dryness and herbaceousness, and the soft quality of its tannins. The blackberry, olive and cedar flavors are delicious, and the wine will develop bottle complexity over the next 10 years or so. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $42

91 Y Rousseau 2009 Le Roi Soleil Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Here’s a Cab-

ernet to lay down in the cellar for 6–8 years—or even longer. Two things mark it: the extremely ripe, concen-trated blackberry and black currant fruit, and the hefty tannins. Most people will probably open it too soon and miss out on what it could be, when the tannins drop out to reveal its sweet fruity essence. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $65

90 Dominus 2009 Estate Bottled Red Wine (Napa Valley). While this is not the best

Dominus vintage, it does show elegantly smooth tan-nins, dryness and earthiness that accompanies the black berry and cassis fruit. It’s curiously soft, which might limit its ageability. Shows an uncanny similarity to the 2000. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $179

90 Forefathers 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley).

For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection.abv: 14.3% Price: $50

90 Jason-Stephens 2006 Monte Bello Road Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Moun-

tains). A six-year-old Cabernet that’s heady with savory herbal tones, it has a finely tuned structure that needs time to open and could be cellared even more. This is a beautiful wine with ripe flavors of black cherry and pep-per, and plenty of complexity to keep it interesting over a meal. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $70

90 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2009 Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This

has lots of ripe, plush blackberry, olive and dark choco-late flavors. It packs a punch that lasts into a long, spicy finish. Delicious, classy, and lovely to drink now, al-though it will evolve through at least 2018. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 Topel 2007 Battuello Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Dry and smoothly

tannic, this will have wide appeal, both to novices and even experts who will appreciate its complexity. With black cherry and cola flavors, it has a nice jacket of oak that brings a smoky richness to the fruit. Drink now–2013. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

90 Trig Point 2009 Diamond Dust Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley).

For full review see page 9. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Varozza 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). This 100% Cabernet has a good

structure and plenty of ripe, flashy blackberry and blue-berry jam and cassis flavors. It’s a bit coarse now in tan-nins, which undoubtedly is a function of youth. Give it another five years, by which time it should be throw-ing lots of tannins, so be prepared to decant it carefully. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $75


89 Boyanci 2009 InSpire Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). Rich and crowd pleas-

ing, this has flashy blackberry, black currant and spice flavors. It’s textbook Napa Cabernet, if a little upfront in its appeal. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $60

88 Chalk Hill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Car-menère (Chalk Hill). This unusual blend is

robust and sweet in blackberries, dark chocolate and plums, with lots of toasty, caramelized oak. It’s forward, soft and delicious, but could be more nuanced. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $85

88 Duckhorn 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe to the point of overripe,

with a sweet raisin edge to the blackberry flavor. Still, the structure is elegant, showing fine tannins and good balance. Probably best over the next 1–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $68

88 Hestan 2007 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe and forward,

this has lots of jammy blackberry and cherry fruit fla-vors, all coated with sweet, smoky oak. It’s a bit over-ripe, with a note of plumped raisin, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

88 Owl Ridge 2007 T.R. Passalacqua Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek

Valley). This Cabernet has a wonderfully smooth tex-ture. It’s tasty and rich in blackberry fruit, with a touch of sweet, savory raisin and lots of exotic spice. Easy to drink this dry wine over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Black Ridge 2008 San Andreas Red Wine (Santa Cruz Mountains). This is a bit rustic,

with superripe blackberry flavors that veer into raisins. As a consequence, there’s a fruity sweetness at its core. It’s also extremely tannic. While it’s flashy and impres-sive, it won’t benefit from age due to its inherent insta-bilities. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $49

87 Buehler 2009 Papa’s Knoll Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This

is warm in alcohol, which lends a slight burn, but the blackberry fruit is pure and savory. It’s dry, with good supporting acidity and rich tannins, but the alcohol might limit its ageability, so drink soon. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

87 Chalk Hill 2009 Merlot-Malbec (Chalk Hill). Tasting sweet and hot, this sure is ripe.

It has extracted flavors of jammy blackberry, cherry and cola. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $85

87 Earthquake 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Earthquake wines often hit you quite

deliberately over the head with oak and tannin, but this is nicely done. It’s big and very fruity, with cranberry and cassis notes intermingled with a blackberry flavor. Smooth throughout, the wine finishes with a delicious hit of toffee and vanilla. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $26

87 Farrier 2009 Presshouse Red (Alexander Valley). Rich and tasty, this is a big wine that’s

ripe in blackberries, black currants and mocha, yet bal-anced with rich tannins and fine acidity. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carmenere. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $24

87 Freakshow 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). For full review see page 10.

abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Herzog 2009 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Very soft, this

has a melted quality to the blackberry, cherry liqueur and cedar flavors. Everything about it is so fine, though it could have a firmer structure. Still, it’s an elaborate wine that will pair well with beef or lamb. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $75

87 Houdini 2008 Glendale Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Still dry and tan-

nic, this has a hard, brittle mouthfeel and lots of tart acidity. It has a gigantic core of blackberry fruit. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Icaria 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan-der Valley). Dry, tannic and tartly acidic, this

has the herbaceous earthiness often found in Alexander Valley Cabernets, but it’s rich enough in cherries and sweet oak to satisfy. It doesn’t seem like an ager, but it’s an elegantly smooth wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

87 Jason-Stephens 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Clara Valley). This is an

appealing Cabernet with spicy cola and plum notes and a consistent flavor through the midpalate. It finishes with a hint of toasty oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

87 Kunde 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Sonoma Valley). Tasty and easy to

drink, this has blackberry, black currant and cola fla-vors that finish seemingly sweet and oaky. It’s an intense wine that doesn’t seem likely to make gains with age, so drink up after an hour or two in the decanter. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

87 Markham 2008 The Altruist Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine re-

mains astringent in tannins, with a lockded-down mouthfeel that’s hard to get past. But it’s very rich in blackberry and cherry fruit. Is it worth aging? It’s hard to tell if 10 years will be of benefit, but the tannins seem likely to outlast the fruit. Drink up over the next 5–6 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

87 Owl Ridge 2007 Brigden Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (Sonoma County). A little

on the slender side, but this is respectable for its dry, balanced texture and pleasant blackberry and black cur-rant flavors. It shows real elegance, too, although it’s not one for the cellar, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Paraduxx 2009 C Blend Red Wine (Napa Valley). The C Blend is Cabernet Sauvignon

blended with Zinfandel. It’s fine, dry and robust, bear-ing rich blackberry and plum sauce flavors, with some authentic Napa elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

87 Paraduxx 2009 Z Blend Red Wine (Napa Valley). Zinfandel has been blended in with

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create this blend. The Zinfandel makes the wine briary and spicy, taking away from Cabernet’s elegance. Still, it’s a very good wine—robust, fruity and dry. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

87 Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This shows good blackberry and

black currant flavors, with the smooth, rich tannins for which Oakville is noted. But there’s no particular inten-sity or ageworthiness. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

87 Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Good and classy, if somewhat

ordinary for Rutherford. It shows delicious black-cherry candy and mocha flavors, with smooth, refined tannins, but lacks the structure and concentration needed for ag-ing, especially at this price. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $80

87 Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Tastes like sweet,

spicy blackberry jam, with an overripe note of prune lurking in the background, which will limit the wine’s ageworthiness. It’s fine in tannins and acids, with plenty of elegance, but it seems too sweet for true classic Stags Leap character. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $85

87 Pine Ridge 2009 Fortis Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). This is a blend of the

winery’s vineyard sources in Rutherford and Stags Leap. It’s very delicious and complex in blackberry and blue-berry jam, cola, mocha and smoky oak flavors, but is sur-prisingly soft. It’s almost as if the tannins and acids were taken out. Drink up. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $150

87 Sean Minor 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A nice Cabernet for drinking

now, this is basically dry, but has so much ripe black-berry and cherry fruit that there’s an impression of sweetness. With soft tannins and an edge of toasty oak, it shows plenty of Napa class. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

87 Shannon Ridge 2009 Ranch Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). A de-

lightfully fresh, fruity Cabernet with notes of cassis and cranberry, this is on the red fruit side of the Cabernet aroma and flavor spectrum. The wine’s clutch of tannins are balanced out on the vanilla-flavored finish, and the wine’s small amounts of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Malbec add layers of vibrancy. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

87 William Hill Estate 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Give this wine

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credit for richness. It’s tremendous in blackberry, blue-berry, plum and mocha flavors, with a nice earthiness. It’s ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

86 Bacio Divino 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This soft, gen-

tle Cabernet doesn’t have much structure, but it’s rich in blackberry, currant and dark chocolate flavors, and thoroughly dry. The finish is hot like a jalapeño pepper. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $80

86 Boyanci 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with some other

classic Bordeaux varieties and a splash of Syrah, this is a sweet, chocolaty wine, with a blackberry note and a crème de cassis headiness. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $110

86 Chalk Hill 2009 Clara’s Vineyard Red Wine (Chalk Hill). This shows opulent black-

berry and chocolate flavors that are delicious and heady. But it’s very high in alcohol, which gives it a burn and a glycerine-like sweetness. It’s a Bordeaux blend, with the addition of Syrah. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $85

86 Chime 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (So-noma County). Exceptionally ripe and juicy,

with briary wild-blackberry and cherry flavors. It’s a good wine, a little coarse, but nicely dry and spicy. A brief decant will help soften the tannins. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $19

86 Crooked Path 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Plenty of rich, hearty black-

berry, cherry, currant and spice flavors are found in this soft wine. A little on the sweet side, it’s throwing some sediment, so decant it before service. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

86 Hawk Watch Winery 2008 Signature Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (South

Coast). There’s no denying the showy, ripe fruit that emanates from the bottle—a mix of herbal cranberry and caramel. It’s soft and round, and if you’re interested in how Cabernet from the South Coast can taste, this one’s worth a try. —V.B. abv: 15.8% Price: $42

86 Hess 2009 Allomi Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Properly varietal, dry and

smoothly tannic, this has a ripe, rich blackberry-jam flavor, with a healthy overlay of sweet, smoky oak. It’s a fine wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

86 Hess Collection 2008 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Mount Veeder). Small amounts of

Malbec and Merlot bring some additional complexity to this Cabernet, but it’s still a pretty straightforward wine. Soft and dry, it has generous flavors of blackberry and new oak. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $48

86 Houdini 2008 Palisades Ranch Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tough in the

mouth, and chewy, like a gristly piece of steak you can’t quite break down. It’s certainly rich in blackberry, black currant and smoky oak flavors, and is properly dry and brisk in acidity. But you have to wonder if that tough-ness will ever age out. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

86 Minassian-Young 2008 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Paso Robles). Soft, sweet, gentle and

Porty, this has dark chocolate, blackberry and buttered rum flavors. It’s quite generous and delicious in the Paso hot-climate way. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $24

86 Noble Vines 2009 337 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Lodi). This is a fleshy, fairly priced Cab-

ernet from the 337 clone (hence the name), that has notes of dark cherry fruit and baking spice throughout, with just a trace of coconut on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

86 Peters Family 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain). This is tartly sweet and

jammy, like a cherry and roasted almond candy bar with a chocolate coating. Tasty, but a little one dimensional. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

86 Shannon Ridge 2010 High Elevation Col-lection Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake Coun-

ty). Made from grapes grown at a high elevation, this Cabernet tastes of oaky plum and has a slight layer of sage in the background that rounds out the wine. Aged in French and American oak, it’s ready to drink now, as its cherry and raspberry flavors are currently shin-ing. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

86 Topel 2008 Battuello Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Soft, dry and flashy,

this has pie-filling flavors of blackberries and cherries, with some heat from the alcohol. The smoky spiciness and firm tannins suggest pairing it with steak. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

86 White Oak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Despite some rich blackberry

and currant flavors, a rich overlay of oak and smooth tannins, this Cabernet is a little off in texture. It’s gritty in the mouth, but it is nicely dry, and has a certain com-plexity. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $30

85 Benziger 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (So-noma County). This is a solid, everyday Cab-

ernet for drinking with simple fare. It’s soft and simple in structure, but the blackberry and mocha flavors are tasty. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

85 Calistoga Cellars 2010 Triumph Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in a popu-

lar style, this is a soft, slightly sweet and very fruity Cab-ernet. It has candied cherry, roasted almond, honey and spice flavors, wrapped in a smoothly tannic framework. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

85 Daglia Canyon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This shows a certain richness,

with black currant, cola and cedar flavors. It’s easy to drink with just about anything that calls for a dry, full-bodied red. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $18

85 Decoy 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County). An easy Cabernet, delivering plenty

of ripe, juicy blackberry jam and dark chocolate flavors. It finishes a little on the sweet side. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

85 Decoy 2010 Red Wine (Napa Valley). This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit

Verdot has some oak flavors on top of the jammy black-berries and cherries. It’s simple and direct; ideal for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

85 F.J. Serra 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cal-ifornia). Jangly in the mouth, with an uneven

tannin structure that makes it a bit rough. But there’s plenty of jammy cherry and berry fruit. Drink now with a hearty beef stew. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Miro 2009 Silverwood Vineyard Moun-tain Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan-

der Valley). Toasty, caramelized oak and sweet heat from high alcohol dominate this wine. The blackberry and cherry fruit flavors are very ripe. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $28

85 Muscardini 2009 Madrone Ridge Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val-

ley). This very dry Cabernet feels rugged and gritty in the mouth, with too much acidity that lends bite. The austerity is relieved by black cherry and sweet tobacco flavors. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $39

85 Muscardini 2010 Rancho Salina Caber-net Sauvignon-Merlot (Sonoma Valley).

Overripe, juicy and soft, this has baked fruit flavors, like blackberries and cherries in a pie. Oak adds to the sweetness with sugary caramel. It’s rich, but it lacks complexity and ageworthiness. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $49

85 Napa Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Seemingly sweet cherry, mo-

cha and oak flavors mark this ripe Cabernet. It offers plenty of fruity pleasure. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $22

85 Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Ripe to the point of be-

ing overripe, this has a sweet raisin and prune note to the blackberry flavor. It’s clear that the winemaker was trying to make a flashy, opulent Cab, but this one carries it over the top. Not likely to benefit from age, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

85 Riboli 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruth-erford). This is sharper and more rustic than

most other expensive Rutherford Cabernets, with a cut


of citrusy acidity that dominates the cherry and herb fla-vors. While it’s tough and hard to appreciate now, you never know if these aggressive young wines will develop with time. This one doesn’t seem like it will benefit, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $65

85 Rigg Estate Vineyards 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley).

Very dark in color, this jumps out at first because it’s showy and high in alcohol, with seemingly sweet over-tones that might appeal to lovers of brawny red wine.The oak, green pepper and olive undertones take over on the finish. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $85

85 Tangley Oaks 2007 Lot #10 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There are good

blackberry and black currant flavors in this dry Caber-net, with an elegant coating of smoky oak, but it lacks some concentration. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $23

85 Vigilance 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake County). This is a slightly herbal,

well-structured Cabernet with upfront tannins and fla-vors of ripe cherry and vanilla. It finishes with a taste of marshmallow. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

84 Calistoga Cellars 2010 Triumph Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made

in a popular style, but this is seems sweet, like a Star-bucks blackberry and mocha drink. It’s overripe, with a raisiny finish and some heat. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

84 Greystone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Not bad for the price, if you’re

just looking for something dry, full bodied and fruity. A lot of people are, which makes this a pretty good bar-gain. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Lost Angel 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This has ripe blackberry and oak

flavors. It’s dry, full bodied and tannic enough to cut through a rich, ketchup-strewn cheeseburger. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

84 RouteStock Cellars 2009 Route 29 Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Although

this Cabernet bears a Napa Valley designation, it could be from anywhere. It’s rich in tannins and has good blackberry and herb flavors that finish a little pruny. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

84 Sean Minor 2010 Four Bears Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This is a simple,

soft, easy to drink Cabernet, with candied berry and spice flavors. The easiness suggests backyard barbecue, with sweetly grilled ribs and burgers on a summer eve-ning. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

84 Twisted Sisters 2009 Matriarch Red Wine (Paso Robles). Made in an old-fashioned

Paso Robles style, this is pretty sweet, soft and simple. There’s not much complexity, but it has plenty of ripe blackberry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

84 Weinstock Cellars 2009 Cellar Select Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County). This

is nicely dry and rich in fine tannins, with classic Caber-net blackberry, black currant, cola and cedar flavors. But the wine is so soft, it lacks structural integrity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

83 Lockwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Monterey County). Drink this Cabernet

with burgers. It’s dry, robust and fruity, with a strong cut of acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (California). This is dry, with scouring

tannins and some twiggy, stalky bitterness. It has just enough blackberry flavor to get by. For the price, it’s fine for big parties. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8

83 Small Wonders 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Central Coast). Simple and sharp, this

tastes like a chocolate-covered cherry candy, though it finishes dry. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

82 Lloyd of Calcareous 2008 Velvet Knees Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This

is way too soft and unstructured, especially at this price. It’s a sweet, syrupy wine, with blackberry jam and cocoa flavors, and it’s also high in alcohol. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $56

82 Parducci 2009 Small Lot Blend Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino County). This run-

of-the-mill wine lacks much in the way of varietal char-acter, and has an overbearing taste of alcohol. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $11

82 Pennywise 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Offering dry, sharp flavors of ber-

ries, mint and tobacco, it gets the job done. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 Shale Canyon 2009 Pedregal Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Paicines). A hard

Cabernet to like, with a rough texture and sweet-and-sour cherry flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $20

82 Snapping Turtle 2011 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (California). Simple and soft, this has

flavors of sweet, candied fruit and buttered toast. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

81 Wayne Gretzky Estates 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is over-

ripe in raisin and prune flavors, which gives it a dis-agreeable bitterness and sweetness. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

80 Arrow Creek 2011 Coastal Series Cab-ernet Sauvignon (California). Harsh, sweet

and sour, this has a gluey texture that frames the cherry cough-medicine flavors. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

OTHER RED BLENDS

92 La Sirena 2008 Art Bus Red (Calistoga). A new wine from superstar winemaker Heidi

Barrett, and the label is one of the coolest ever. It’s ex-traordinarily rich and opulent, with a tapestry-like silky complexity. The blackberry, cherry and olive flavors are very ripe, yet it finishes wonderfully dry. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $115

90 Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend Red Blend (Napa County-Sonoma Coun-

ty-San Joaquin County). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

86 Cosa Obra 2009 Proprietor’s Blend Red (Sonoma County). Made from Syrah and Gr-

enache, this blend shows the strengths and weaknesses of its style. While it’s forwardly delicious and complex in cherry, licorice, bacon, black pepper, mocha and sandal-wood flavors, it’s rather soft. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

86 Sean Minor 2009 Red Wine (Napa Val-ley). There’s something distinguished about

this blend of several varieties, but also something one-dimensional. It’s pretty good for the price—dry, smoothly tannic and proper in blackberry, dark choco-late and cassis flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

85 Eleanor 2009 Red Wine (California). This expensive wine is softly tannic, earthy and fruity,

with dried herb and raspberry tea flavors. From Francis Ford Coppola. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

85 Lost Angel 2008 Mischief (California). This is a pretty nice wine for drinking with

every day fare, and at this price, it’s a real value. It packs a punch, with solid blackberry and licorice flavors that finish dry and spicy. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

84 Bridlewood 2010 Blend 175 (Central Coast). Made from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon and Zinfandel, this is a simple wine. It has cherry and spice flavors, with a cut of acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Minassian-Young 2010 Field Blend (Paso Robles). This blend of Mourvèdre and Cou-

noise is soft and sweet. It tastes like the wine version of a milk-chocolate candy bar, infused with blackberry essence and alcohol. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $25

84 Pazzo 2009 Red (Napa Valley). From Ba-cio Divino, this Sangiovese-based blend is curi-

ously soft. While it has forward cherry, cocoa and spice

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flavors, it simply lacks structural integrity.The alcohol is evident on the warm, dry finish. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $32

84 Rare NV 4 Grape Blend (California). Here’s a good, robust red wine. It’s made in a

country-style, with tobacco, cherry and spice flavors and a jagged mouthfeel. Drink it with tacos and burg-ers. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Mountain Cuvée (Sonoma County). This is way too

soft for comfort, with soft tannins and slight acidity that leave the fruit and alcohol to star. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

83 LoveThisLife 2009 Red (California). With cherry, mocha and spice flavors, this is a good

wine for drinking with a great cheeseburger. The price is fair for the quality. It’s a blend of Petite Sirah and Syrah. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $13

82 Cline 2011 Cashmere (California). This blend seems to be trying to ride the current

craze for sweet red wines. It’s simple and thin, with sharp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

81 Minassian-Young 2009 Junipero (Paso Robles). Marred by a vegetal taste, this has

hot, thin cherry and oak flavors. The blend is Mourvè-dre, Zinfandel and Grenache. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $24

81 Plush 2010 Smooth Red (California). As its name states quite clearly, this is a plush, lush,

smooth red wine. It’s sweet and jammy like a shot of Jell-O. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

80 Peirano 2009 The Other Red (Lodi). This blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Mer-

lot and 10% Syrah was too sweet for this taster. It’s full of huge ripe fruit and a lingering aroma of burnt toast. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

MERLOT

95 Duckhorn 2009 Three Palms Vineyard Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see


91 Duckhorn 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.5% Price: $52

91 Korbin Kameron 2008 Estate Grown Merlot (Sonoma Valley). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14.4% Price: $35

90 Kendall-Jackson 2008 Grand Reserve Merlot (Sonoma County). This is a lovely,

fully resolved Merlot. It shows a classy elegance that be-

lies the price. Fully drinkable now, it’s softly tannic and rich in cherry, red currant, licorice and mocha flavors that finish dry and spicy. Production was 9,904 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

90 Kimmel 2009 Merlot (Mendocino Coun-ty). Powerfully lush and concentrated, this

has a heady layering of spice and tannins that coat the back palate. With a big, fruity mouthfeel, this is ready for braised meats or herbed roast chicken with garlic smashed potatoes. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

90 Trig Point 2010 Diamond Dust Vineyard Merlot (Alexander Valley). For full review


87 Chelsea Goldschmidt 2010 Merlot (Dry Creek Valley). Here’s a soft, juicy Merlot. It’s

loaded with cherry, mocha and smoky flavors, wrapped into smooth tannins. It finishes dry and spicy. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $17

86 Concannon 2009 Conservancy Merlot (Livermore Valley). This has flavors of dark

cherry and mint that hover above its herbal tendencies. It resolves nicely on the finish, with flavors of juicy plum and black tea. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

86 Mad Housewife 2009 Merlot (California). This is a Merlot with dark plum flavors, integrat-

ed tannins and good structure. Juicy fruit and an appro-priate level of herbaceousness in the background. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Newton 2008 Unfiltered Merlot (Napa Valley). Slender and dry, this has modest cher-

ry, herb and cedar flavors. It’s elegant enough, with a supple mouthfeel, but there’s not a whole lot of rich-ness. This is not for aging. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

86 Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Merlot (Califor-nia). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.

abv: 13% Price: $8

86 Tangley Oaks 2009 Lot #10 Merlot (Napa Valley). Rich and appealing, this feels classy,

with smooth tannins framing cherry and licorice flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

85 Black Box 2010 Merlot (California). Once again Black Box has come out with a fine, easy-

drinking Merlot that many folks will like. It’s forward in sour cherry, herb and cedar flavors, wrapped into a dry, silky texture. At the equivalent of $6.25 for a regular 750-ml bottle, it’s a bargain. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25/3 L

85 Decoy 2010 Merlot (Sonoma County). Sweet and direct, this has blackberry, cherry

jam, mocha and spicy sandalwood flavors. There’s plenty of charm, but not much complexity. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

85 Houdini 2008 Merlot (Oakville). Fruity and simple, this Merlot tastes like the wine equiva-

lent of a candied dessert pastry. It may not be techni-cally sweet, but it’s so extracted in raspberries, cherries and caramelized oak that it seems sweet. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $30

85 Lost Angel 2009 Merlot (California). Get a case of this and make it your house wine for

easy drinking. It’s dry and spicy, and has enough cher-ry, berry and cola flavors to satisfy your tastebuds. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Parducci 2009 Small Lot Blend Merlot (Mendocino County). This Merlot has good

plum and cherry flavors up front and is straightforward enough to pair with just about any food, but the finish falls a bit flat. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Benziger 2008 Merlot (Sonoma County). A soft, simple wine, this has flavors of cherry

candy, spice and oak. It’s getting a little tired, so drink up now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

84 Geyser Peak 2008 Merlot (Alexander Val-ley). This is soft and simple, with mild cherry,

spice and cedar flavors. It’s not very rich, but it’s nice and dry. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

84 Lockwood 2010 Merlot (Monterey Coun-ty). There’s lots of cutting acidity in this dry

Merlot. It has pleasant cherry-pie flavors, but the tart-ness really needs rich meats and cheeses to soften it. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Greystone 2010 Merlot (California). Drink this easy Merlot at parties with burgers and piz-

zas. It’s soft and dryish, with a candied cherry flavor. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

82 Cable Car 2009 Merlot (Lodi). This is an herbal Merlot that tastes of toasty oak and fin-

ishes slightly sweet. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

82 Lange Twins 2008 Reserve Merlot (Clarksburg). This Merlot is muted aromati-

cally. On the palate it’s gigantic in tannins—big and bold for sure. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

82 Maddalena 2007 Merlot (Paso Robles). Still rather harsh, this is a rustic wine with cher-

ry, cola and prune flavors. It’s not for aging. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

81 House Band NV Merlot (California). Sold in individual 375-ml pouches or 4-packs. The


Merlot is overripe and Porty, with a sweet prune fla-vor. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $5/375 ml

PETIT VERDOT

91 Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Petit Ver-dot (St. Helena). For full review see page 7.

abv: 14.8% Price: $38

88 Fenestra 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard Petit Verdot (Livermore Valley). This wine opens

with spicy cinnamon and clove aromas before div-ing into soft, dark fruit, mellowed tannins and oak. It’s brooding and zippy at the same time, and on the bal-anced finish, it’s all mocha. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $33

87 Yorkville Cellars 2009 Randle Hill Vine-yard Petit Verdot (Yorkville Highlands). A

Cabernet Sauvignon-like version of Petit Verdot, this has tame tannins and is all around soft and mellow, with straightforward berry and cedar notes. It would make a fine food wine. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $28

PINOT NOIR

95 Furthermore 2009 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Showing love-

ly silkiness, dryness and transparency, this is a Pinot to drink now or age for a while. The flavors are rich but elusive, suggesting wild summer raspberries, cola, pine needles and sautéed mushrooms splashed with balsam-ic, with the sweet smokiness of oak barrel aging. It’s del-icate and powerful, but only 47 cases were produced. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $50

95 Marimar Estate 2008 Cristina Don Miguel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-

ley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

95 Sanford 2009 La Riconada Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a grace and purity

to this Pinot Noir that make it particularly recommend-able. It’s so light and silky, it just glides like a butterfly across the palate. But it’s extraordinarily rich in wild raspberry and cherry fruit, and the white pepper and baking spices make it savory. Delicious now, but it should prosper over the next eight years, at least. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

95 Walt 2010 The Corners Pinot Noir (An-derson Valley). For full review see page 4.

abv: 15.1% Price: $60

94 Davis Family 2009 Horshehoe Bend Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-

ley). The winery’s ’08 bottling of this Pinot was very good, but this is considerably better. It’s rich in red cher-ries and ripe persimmons, with complex notes of grilled beef, cola and sautéed wild mushrooms, and has a long,

spicy finish. A joy to drink now, and it will develop bottle nuances over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

94 Sanford 2010 Sanford & Benedict Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a

fancy restaurant-style Pinot Noir. That means it’s dry, silky and rich, and has that elusive, undefinable qual-ity of elegance that can accompany the finest Pinot-friendly foods, such as steak, lamb, grilled tuna or a wild mushroom risotto. It’s tantalizingly crisp, with complex cherry, cola and spice flavors. Drink now and through 2016. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

94 Sobriquet Winery 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see page 4. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

93 a-non-ah-mus 2009 Babcock Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). How this wine

manages to be both sweet and bone dry at the same time is a mystery. It’s simply luscious, brimming with deliriously rich flavors of raspberry cream, cherry vanilla, gingerbread cookie and buttered cinnamon toast. It’s the Chardonnay version of Pinot Noir, creamy and honeyed. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $44

93 Davis Family 2009 Starr Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). With

waves of raspberry, cherry, honeyed cream, cinnamon and caramelized oak flavors, this defines the word deli-cious. The richness is balanced by crisp acidity and deli-cate tannins. Just superb to drink now; try pairing it with lamb that’s been salted and peppered, seasoned with a hint of rosemary. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

93 Drew 2010 Fog-Eater Pinot Noir (Ander-son Valley). Dry and racy, with an affinity for

a wide variety of foods. Made from two vineyards in this cool-climate appellation, it shows subtle earth, mush-room and eucalyptus notes that deepen the wild rasp-berry and cherry fruit. With brisk acidity and a flourish of tannins, it’s a fine wine to drink now and over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $42

93 Drew 2010 Morning Dew Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Another great An-

derson Valley Pinot from Drew, made using fruit from a vineyard in Philo—the “deep end” or coolest section of the valley. While you won’t find obnoxious acidity despite the officially high reading, the wine does have cool-climate notes of mushrooms, pine needles and cola, in addition to classic fruit flavors of raspberries and cherries. It’s very fine, dry and complex; enjoy now or cellar for 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

93 Furthermore 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A fine

evocation of this esteemed vineyard, this shows the typi-cal power and extracted fruit in the form of pure rasp-berry and cherry essence. It’s all packed into a firm tex-

ture of acids, tannins and stony minerality. Upscale and elegant, it’s fine now, and should develop bottle com-plexities over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 TR Elliott 2009 Queste Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). This is so seductive in rich,

polished raspberry and cherry flavors, you can hardly keep from drinking it now. But the acid and tannin bal-ance on this Pinot Noir is just about perfect, giving it the potential for at least six years in a good cellar. There’s an earthy, mushroomy complexity that could make it really interesting down the road. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

93 Walt 2010 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Amos Cellars 2010 Shepherd Anderson Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Val-

ley). Proprietor Jon McDaniel, a sommelier, has craft-ed a Pinot Noir that’s modest in alcohol and brisk in acidity, with an elegantly earthy touch. It’s rich in cher-ries, pomegranates and dried herbs, a wine to savor and linger over as it warms up in the glass. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

92 Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros). Lovely, crisp acidity marks

this dry, complex Pinot Noir. It’s not an ager, but very elegant, with delicate sour-cherry candy, cola and mush-room flavors. A great wine to serve with mushroom-based entrées. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Calera 2009 Reed Pinot Noir (Mt. Har-lan). This shows a delicate silkiness and a sweet

essence of wild raspberries that make it fully ready to drink now. But that quality obscures its subtleties of mineral, mushroomy earth and flower notes that add to this Pinot’s great complexity. As good as it is now, it will have no trouble negotiating the next decade. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $52

92 Davis Family 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A consummate Russian River

Pinot Noir in an accessible style. This is simply enchant-ing, like raspberry-infused silk dusted with brown but-ter, cinnamon and vanilla. Showing just beautifully now, this is soft and gentle, and it should glide through the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

92 Davis Family 2009 Soul Patch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is delicious in

raspberry and cherry jam and cola flavors, with a mush-room and grilled hamburger note that adds to its ap-peal. Dry and crisp, it could develop complexity over the years, but there’s no reason not to give it a decanting and enjoy it now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

92 Freeman 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A beautiful Pinot to drink now, this is

elegant and supple, with crisp acidity and a delightfully light texture. However, there’s nothing light about the

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flavors, which suggest wild forest berry, softened cola, mushroom, dried pine and spice, enhanced with a sub-tle jacket of sandalwood. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $44

92 Freeman 2010 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Delicious and spicy,

this has notes of cherry pie filling, cola, dried forest herb and leaf, with a touch of sweet, smoky, vanilla-tinged oak. It’s a bit on the brawny side, but then, these Keefer Ranch Pinots always start out that way. Don’t drink it now because it’s just too hefty; give it six years in a prop-er cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

92 Lucie 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-ley). Lots of ripe, cheerful flavors of raspberry

and cherry jam and cola are found in this vibrant wine. It shows oak, too, in the form of sweet buttered cinna-mon toast. The mouthfeel is pure Pinot: silky, velvety and delicate. Delicious for drinking now with every-thing from grilled steak to ahi tuna. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

92 MacPhail 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see


92 Von Holt 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review


92 Walt 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 7.

abv: 15.2% Price: $60

91 Acacia 2010 Roberts Road Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Sonoma Coast). As delicious as

Pinot Noir gets, this has fireworks of raspberries, cher-ries and cola, and a sweet, mushroom-like essence of earth. Then the depth kicks in. It’s not a big, tannic wine, but rather soft, with enormous charm and imme-diate appeal. Drink now–2016. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $65

91 Drew 2010 Telfryn & Calder Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Spice marks this dry, del-

icate offering, with notes of white pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg. But it’s also richly fruity in wild cherries and raspberries. In recent years, Drew has been pro-ducing remarkably complex and ageworthy Pinots, and this lovely wine, which is not a single-vineyard bottling, shows the winery’s continued mastery. It’s a particular success given the enormous challenges of the 2010 vin-tage. Drink now–2018. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $38

91 Furthermore 2009 La Encantada Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is

Furthermore’s fruitiest, most accessible ’09 Pinot Noir. If you love fruit, you’ll savor the endless flavors of rasp-berries, cherries and persimmons that are brightened with a squeeze of zesty, lime-like acidity and enriched with the smoky creaminess of oak. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

91 Kynsi 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Made in the

Kynsi style, this is direct and delicious, made for drink-ing now. The wild raspberry and cherry flavors have a brightness and acidity that make them savory. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $39

91 Kynsi 2009 Stone Corral Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). This is absolute-

ly delicious, with raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors that go on and on. Great Central Coast acidity provides needed tartness to balance the richness. It’s a beauti-ful, ripe, flashy and sophisticated Pinot Noir, showing the early drinkability and freshness of the Edna Valley. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

91 MacPhail 2010 Wightman House Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full

review see page 8. abv: 14.9% Price: $55

91 Pali 2010 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Very delicious and sa-

vory if a little hot in alcohol, this has flavors of raspberry and cherry jam, buttery pie crust and vanilla that are flecked with red pepper flakes. It’s not an ager, but it is an elegant, flashy wine for pairing with tuna, lamb or steak. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $54

91 Stemmler 2009 Ferguson Block Pinot Noir (Carneros). Strong in fruit, this is a high

octane Pinot that floods the mouth with ripe flavors of cherry and blackberry Life Saver candy, Dr. Pepper and sweetly toasted cedar. It has an elegant structure and a silky mouthfeel that make it especially attractive. This should develop complexity over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $44

91 Stemmler 2009 Nugent Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This still im-

mature Pinot has tobacco-infused cherry, cola and pomegranate flavors that are liberally oaked and spiced. It’s O.K. to drink immediately if you like freshness and vibrancy, but aging it for six years or even longer could reward. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $42

91 Topel 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Mon-terey). Dry and elegant, this is not a block-

buster. It doesn’t grab you by the collar and shake you with its power. Instead, it flatters with finesse. Crisp acidity and a silky texture house subtle cherry-skin, cola and spice flavors. It’s a great companion for food that will complement it, not overwhelm it. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

91 TR Elliott 2009 Burgonet Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). Right up there with the

rich ’08, Elliott’s 2009 offers plenty of serious tasting pleasure. It’s rich and ripe in raspberries and cherries, with complex notes of mushrooms, cola, herbs and spic-

es. Dry and silky, it’s a classy Pinot Noir for drinking over the next several years. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $44

90 Belle Glos 2010 Las Alturas Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This

bottling has varied over the vintages, but 2010 has pro-duced a softly lush, rich Pinot for drinking now. It’s as tasty as a dessert confection, with flavors of raspberry jam, buttercream and cinnamon toast, balanced with acidity. For all the richness, it finishes properly dry. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $44

90 Belle Glos 2010 Taylor Lane Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Sonoma Coast). Like the winery’s

other 2010 Pinots, this one’s seems sweet and jammy in raspberries, cherries and cola, with lots of caramelized new-oak tones. It definitely appeals for its opulence, but would benefit from greater subtlety. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $44

90 Black Kite 2009 Kite’s Rest Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Right out of the bottle,

it’s a bit clumsy, but airing quickly lets it mellow, so give it some time in a decanter. Delicious in cherry, cola, ba-con, cinnamon toast and other classic cool-climate Pi-not flavors, it shows a racy acidity that makes it vibrant. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $42

90 Black Kite 2009 Stony Terrace Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Tasted in May of 2012,

this shows an immaturity, where all the parts haven’t yet come together. It has a big, rich black-cherry flavor, with elaborate smoky oak, brisk acidity, firm tannins and heat from the alcohol all vying for dominance. Needs time; cellar it until 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

90 Calera 2009 Jensen Pinot Noir (Mt. Har-lan). In its youth, this tastes rich and candied,

like a cherry, vanilla and buttercream pastry. It’s deli-cious, savory and fun, a very easy wine to drink with a great steak or chop. With its delicate texture, it should probably last quite a few years, without necessarily gain-ing in complexity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $73

90 Cuvaison 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). One of Cuvaison’s best basic Pinots in years, this

is charming with its dry, crisp structure, silky elegance and fine flavors of raspberries, cherries and toasty oak. While not an ager, it’s a beautiful wine to pair with tuna, salmon, lamb or steak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Furthermore 2009 Amber Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry and

exceptionally rich, this has a fleshiness that suggests it could use some time in the cellar. It’s strongly ripe in wild raspberries and cherries, with a spicy, minty pine note that’s attractive. Mouthwatering acidity suggests this can use 4–6 years of aging, but it can also be con-sumed now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40


90 Kynsi 2009 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). The translucency, acidity and laserlike purity of red

berry fruit make this Pinot Noir uniquely Edna Valley. It’s as delicate as silk, yet packs a real flavor and spice punch. Very finely crafted, it’s a fine, dry wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $32

90 MacPhail 2010 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 9.

abv: 14.3% Price: $49

90 MacPhail 2010 Toulouse Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see


90 Saxon Brown 2009 Parmelee-Hill Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This

small-production single-vineyard Pinot Noir is dry, ele-gant and may be deceptively simple in its youth. It feels delicate now, almost fragile, with the suggestion of bare-ly ripe cherries and cola that’s been left out overnight so it loses its spritz. It’s a wine of nuance, not power, and could easily develop dramatically over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

89 Belle Glos 2010 Clark & Telephone Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Very

rich and flamboyant, this may even be a little over the top. It shows a tremendous essence of raspberries and cherries that have been folded into mascarpone cream and dusted with cinnamon and brown sugar. It’s deli-cious, seemingly sweet and dramatic, but somewhat ob-vious in its appeal. Even the winemaker calls it “Christ-mas in the mouth.” Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $44

89 Black Kite 2009 River Turn Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). It’s very acidic and also

a little hot in alcohol, and the combination of the two gives this a prickly taste and feeling. On the other hand, it’s enormously rich and delicious in raspberries, cher-ries and cola, with all kinds of spicy, mushroomy, oaky nuances. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $52

89 Migration 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A wildly delicious Pinot Noir, offer-

ing flashy raspberry and cherry jam flavors. It’s soft and silky, just like you want a nice Pinot to be. Drink now for its silky, youthful appeal. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

89 Sanford 2010 La Rinconada Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is curiously soft con-

sidering the cool vintage. Still, it’s delicious in rasp-berry and cherry jam flavors, with a spiciness that lasts through the long finish. It seems wise to drink it now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

89 Sonnet 2009 Muns Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s lots to like

in this interestingly textured Pinot Noir. It’s dry and silky and has a bite of tannins that longs to dig into a grilled steak or lamb chop. The cherry fruit flavors are

enriched with smoky oak. It seems best now and over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Stemmler 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). With cherry Life Saver candy flavors and lots of

zingy acidity, this has a sweet and sour taste that makes it savory. It’s delicately structured and silky in the mouth, and it will be good over the next six years or so. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $42

88 Corkscrew 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is not a superrich wine, but it’s

ele gant, fresh, vibrant and clean in acidity. It has fla-vors of oak-inspired cherry, Canadian bacon and spice. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

88 Handley 2009 Pinot Noir (Mendocino County). This is a good vintage for Handley’s

Mendocino blend, a mishmash from various vineyards throughout the county. The wine has structure and bright acidity, with its intensity tucked between its lay-ers. This can likely age. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

88 Jim Ball 2009 Boonville Pinot Noir (An-derson Valley). As rich, ripe and flashy as any

Pinot Noir out there. It floods the mouth with jammy raspberries and cherries, with smoky oak sweetness like pie crust, sprinkled with cinnamon and brown sugar. Drink soon. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

88 Pali 2010 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). If you’re sensitive to high al-

cohol in Pinot Noir, this might not be for you. If you’re not, you’ll probably find the richness impressive. Al-though it’s technically dry, it seems sweet and deli-cious like a raspberry tart that’s sprinkled with cocoa and brown sugar, with a buttery, smoky crust. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $54

88 Saxon Brown 2009 Durell Vineyard Hay-field Block Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).

This tastes soft and simple now, although considering the vineyard sourcing, that could be misleading. There’s a core of raspberry and cherry fruit, with intriguing for-est notes of dried pine needles and mushrooms. The acidity is just right, neither bright nor too soft. The wine isn’t showing much now, but could be a sleeper. Try af-ter 2015. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

88 Stephen Ross 2009 Stone Corral Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). There’s al-

ways lots of acidity in Pinots from the Edna Valley, but this one has more than usual, courtesy of the cool vintage. Although it’s tart, it’s entirely dry, and is load-ed with raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s silky enough to drink now and over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $52

88 Windstream 2010 Sarmento Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Nicely

dry, silky and delicate in structure, this has pleasant cherry and cola flavors that are brightened by acidity.

It finishes with the sweetness of toasted oak. While it’s not particularly complex, it does offer plenty of varietal pleasure. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

87 Acacia 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is a soft, rich Pinot Noir, bursting in cherry pie and

cola flavors. It has a nice edge of acidity, and it finishes dry and exotically spicy. A textbook Carneros wine, it’s meant to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

87 Acacia 2010 Lone Tree Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros). Delicious, but kind of heavy

for a Pinot Noir. It has rich, heady flavors of cherry and blackberry jam, touched with sweet, smoky oak, and a spicy finish. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

87 Acacia 2010 Lone Tree Vineyard Barrel Selection Pinot Noir (Carneros). This has

lots of fine, upfront cherry, cola, mocha and oak fla-vors in this Pinot. It’s a little on the soft side, lacking the structure for aging. But it’s a pretty wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

87 Acacia 2010 Winery Lake Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros). This pours unusually dark

for a Pinot Noir and tastes heavy, like a Grenache. It actually tastes pretty flashy, with deep, delicious black-cherry and cola flavors, but it’s a little too full bodied for the variety, lacking delicacy and subtlety. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $32

87 Drew 2010 Valenti Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino Ridge). Elaborately rich, this

has flavors suggestive of raspberries and cherries baked into a pie, with the brown sugar and smoky pie crust sweetness of a pastry. That doesn’t mean the wine is sweet; it’s actually dry, but just tastes candied. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

87 Jim Ball 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val-ley). This is a solid Pinot, ripe in raspberries

and cherries, with fine coastal acidity and firm tannins. It has a silky mouthfeel the way Pinot Noir should. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

87 Jim Ball 2009 Les Pintades Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Everything about this

Pinot is upfront, but it’s beautiful. Softly appealing, with a silky mouthfeel, it offers flattering raspberry and cher-ry jam flavors, with smoky, sweet, buttery notes. The softness suggests that the wine is not ageable. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $60

87 Pali 2010 Rancho La Viña Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Delicious and easy to

like, and even if it is a little one dimensional, it’s very pleasant. Dry, silky and crisp, it offers upfront raspberry, cola and new oak flavors. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $54

87 Pali 2010 Windsor Oaks Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A gentle, easy

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to drink Pinot, with pleasantly complex flavors of rasp-berry and cherry pie filling and new oak. The alcohol is high, making for a burn that might offend Pinot purists. But most fans will appreciate its sheer deliciousness. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $50

87 Riverbench 2010 Mesa Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This is a full-bodied, sumptuous

Pinot Noir that’s filled with candied, pie-filling flavors of black cherries, licorice, mocha and spices. While it’s a bit common in texture, it does provide plenty of plea-sure. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $48

87 Stephen Ross 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is somewhat lean,

but its elegantly tailored in its brisk acidity and dry-ness. While the cherry and berry flavors are modest, the wine’s austerity makes it versatile with an enormous range of foods. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

87 Wattle Creek 2010 Pinot Noir (Yorkville Highlands). This is a thick, earthy Pinot that

sparks thoughts of dark cherries and mushrooms among layers of cola, spice and bacon atop toast. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

87 Wente 2009 Reliz Creek Pinot Noir (Ar-royo Seco). Dry and elegant, with the silky

texture and cherry flavors you want in a good bottle. Yes, it’s a little light in body and intensity, but the price is pretty good for a Pinot with this much varietal plea-sure. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Annabella 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This isn’t the most powerful, impres-

sive Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, but it has a lot going for it. It’s bone dry, crisply acidic and elegant on the palate, with a flavor of sour cherry candy that’s sa-vory and clean. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

86 Bridlewood 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). This is a sound Pinot Noir, rich in

raspberry jam, toast and vanilla flavors, with lots of zingy coastal acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

86 Girasole Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir (Mendocino). There aren’t too many Cali-

fornia Pinots lying around at $16. A Pinot made from organic grapes, this has a strawberry note in the fore-ground, followed by a peppery, spicy undertone. With its weight and depth on the finish, it’ll hold up to a range of meals. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

86 J. Wilkes 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A good Pinot, this is perfectly accept-

able for everyday purposes. Maybe it’s a little pricy, but you get a dry, tart wine, with cherry, cola and mushroom flavors. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

86 J. Wilkes 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Notes of crushed spices accent the

black cherry and plum flavors of this Pinot, making it savory. It’s a dry wine, crisp in coastal acidity and a lit-tle rough in texture. Not going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

86 Lockwood 2009 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). This is dry and silky, with enough

acidity to provide life to the modest cherry and cola flavors. It’s pretty good for the price, because in Pinot Noir, you get what you pay for. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

86 Pali 2010 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). Made in a drink-me-now style,

this is a delicately balanced wine, rich in oak, with a wealth of raspberries and cherries. It’s soft, delicious and a little high in alcohol. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $54

86 Riverbench 2010 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Soft and sweet in

cherry cola and spice flavors, this displays Pinot’s lovely silkiness. It’s a nice wine, yet lacks that extra complexity and nuance you want in the variety. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $28

86 San Simeon 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey). A simple but likeable Pinot Noir, this is light-

bodied, dry and clean, with brisk, mouthwatering acidity. The flavors suggest cherry and raspberry Life Savers, with a hit of mint tea. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

86 Sanford 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This has nowhere near the complexity of San-

ford’s single-vineyard bottlings. It seems pricy for what you get, which is a basic Pinot that’s dry and silky, with pleasant cherry candy and cola flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

86 Sonoma-Loeb 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a simple but delicious

Pinot Noir. It has candied cherry flavors that are sweet and sour, with lots of toasty, vanilla-scented oak. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $42

86 Stomping Girl 2010 Unhinged Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Dry, spicy and elegantly

structured, this is a little rugged around the edges in texture, but the black raspberry and cola flavors are savory. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $28

85 Baldacci 2010 Elizabeth Pinot Noir (Carneros). Cabernet specialist Baldacci tries

their hand at Pinot Noir, and what do you know? It’s a Cabernet-esque Pinot, which means its heavy and full bodied. There’s plenty of savory blackberry essence, but the challenge is to bring grace and lightness to this variety. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

85 Cline 2010 Cool Climate Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). Acidity dominates this Pinot,

giving it a tingly scour. While it’s silky and dry, the cherry fruit is a little slender. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Fleur 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). What this Pinot is not is ageable and dramatic, but

it’s a good expression of the variety: silky and dry, with savory cherry-skin and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $17

85 Sonnet 2009 Tondre’s Grapefield Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Some un-

ripe vegetal notes mar what is otherwise a fine, silky Pinot Noir, with flavors of raspberry cream and cinna-mon spice. Give this lots of breathing before you drink it. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

85 Stephen Ross 2010 Bien Nacido Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley).

Tight, acidic and a little green, this lacks the generosity and opulence you expect of a Pinot Noir from this fa-mous vineyard. The cherry fruit is laced with mint and tobacco leaf notes. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

85 Stomping Girl 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry and tart in sour cherry can-

dy and cola flavors, this Pinot has hints of mint and to-bacco that suggest the grapes weren’t completely ripe. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $36

85 Villa Mt. Eden 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Although it’s not especially rich, it

does offer basic Pinot Noir characteristics, with a silky mouthfeel framing sour cherry-candy flavors that are brightened with acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

84 Drew 2010 Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yor-kville Highlands). There’s a Porty overripe-

ness all through this wine, like concentrated raisins and prunes. Although it’s basically dry, it has a raisiny sweet-ness, especially toward the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

84 Kirkland Signature 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Simple, dry and one dimensional,

this has cola and cherry jam flavors, and a silky, delicate texture. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

84 Sean Minor 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Simple and agreeable, this can be paired with

a burger or beef taco. It’s dry and clean, with pleasant cherry and cola flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

84 Stephen Ross 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Dry and acidic, this has flavors of green

mint and sour cherry candy. Not likely to improve with age, but give it an hour in the decanter to let it soften. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

84 Walt 2010 Hein Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). The first noticeable


aspect is that it seems to have no structure. The cher-ry, cola and pomegranate flavors have been elaborately oaked, but there’s nothing for the mouth to grip onto. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $60

83 Chime 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coun-ty). A light style of Pinot Noir, this is dry and

racy. It offers good persimmon and cola flavors, and is very spicy. A trace of green is distracting. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $19

82 Bogle 2010 Pinot Noir (California). A small Pinot Noir, this is dry and vegetal, with modest

cherry flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

82 Decoy 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Dry and delicately structured, with sour cherry

Life Saver flavors. There’s a disagreeably green, unripe streak that is distracting. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $22

82 Fleur 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Not much going on in this dry, acidic Pinot Noir.

The cherry fruit is thin, allowing the alcohol to show through. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

82 Heart O’ The Mountain 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Soft and simple,

this has overripe prune-jam flavors. It tastes baked and dessicated by the heat. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $48

82 Heart O’ The Mountain 2009 Estate Re-serve Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains).

This is too ripe, with a disagreeable pruny taste. The wine is dry and full bodied, but is almost like a minor Port. The official alcohol reading is 14.8% by volume, but it tastes higher and hotter than that. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

81 Gracianna 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Russian River Valley). Green, un-

ripe vegetal flavors mark this Pinot Noir. It does have some decent raspberry and cherry flavors, but turns sour on the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $48

GRENACHE

88 a-non-ah-mus 2009 Alisos Vineyard Gren ache (Santa Barbara County). This

has notes of raspberries, cherries and whipped cream. It’s addictively drinkable, showing none of the prob-lems Grenache so often encounters. Enjoy it now for its fresh, irrepressible appeal. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $30

88 Austin Hope 2010 Grenache (Paso Ro-bles). This polished wine is rich, dry and pretty

much as complex as Grenache manages to get in Cali-fornia. With the weight of a silky Pinot Noir, it has pleas-ant cherry, teriyaki beef and white pepper flavors, with a touch of overripe raisin on the finish. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $42

82 Calcareous 2009 Grenache (Paso Ro-bles). This is a harsh, sweet wine whose bal-

ance and mouthfeel are slightly off. It has ripe, Gren-ache-like flavors of cherry pie filling. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $36

81 10 Knots 2009 Moonraker Grenache (Paso Robles). Hot in alcohol, simple in ev-

erything else, this Grenache has thin, overripe pruny flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

94 Montagna 2009 Triangle Syrah (Napa Val-ley). Made in a rich, ripe style that perhaps fa-

vors power over elegance, this is delicious from start to finish. It’s a big, intense wine, massive in blackberry and mocha flavors, with a bacon meatiness that’s part Syrah, part smoky oak. While it’s a little obvious in its appeals, it does show Syrah at its flashy Napa best. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $60

93 La Sirena 2007 Barrett Vineyard Syrah (Calistoga). This Syrah tries to strike a bal-

ance between rich opulence and controlled elegance, and it largely succeeds. It’s has exquisite tannins and fine acidity, finishing bone dry. The flavors are complex, immediately suggesting ripe blackberries, with notes of beef tartare, grilled wild mushrooms splashed with tam-ari, black pepper and minerals. You can draw analogies to the northern Rhône if you want. Will it age? Hard to say, but it’s a great wine now. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $75

93 Super Sonoman 2008 Syrah (Sonoma County). This is delicious, right up there with

a great Cabernet. First of all, there’s the smoothly tannic and velvety mouthfeel. Then there’s the flavors that are wildly attractive in blackberries, black licorice, crispy bacon and something purple and flowery, like violets. The grapes comes from a vineyard in the Mayacamas range that only qualifies for the county appellation. It’s expensive, yes, but it tastes expensive. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $55

92 a-non-ah-mus 2009 Alisos Vineyard Syr-ah (Santa Barbara County). This is made in

a ripe, high-alcohol style, which gives it a little burn-ing sensation, like Cognac. The flavors certainly are delicious, exploding with blackberries, blueberries, dark chocolate and roasted oak. The tannin-acid structure is intricate and smooth. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $35

91 Vagabond 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley). A nice interpretation of Syrah, this shows fine

Napa elegance and structure. Dry and complex, this 100% Syrah has flavors of ripe, crushed blackberry fruit, raw beef, iron and black pepper, with a touch of smoky oak. Try now with beef tartare or carpaccio for some-thing different. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $60

90 Austin Hope 2010 Hope Family Vineyard Syrah (Paso Robles). High alcohol gives this

wine a slight burn, but if that doesn’t bother you, you’ll

find lots to like here. It’s soft, dryish and rich in black cherry, mocha, grilled meat and black pepper flavors. Oak adds just the right touch of sweet vanilla and toast. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $42

90 Carr 2009 Morehouse Vineyard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). This Syrah is consider-

ably lighter in body than you’d expect for a variety that’s often heavy and full bodied. It has the silkiness of a Pi-not Noir, and it’s dry and complex in wild berry, leather, black pepper and cedar flavors. It shows lots of elegance throughout, and could even pick up bottle notes over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $50

89 Four Cairn 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). The last few vintages of this wine have been variable.

This one plays it safe, going right down the middle in delivering blackberry, peppered steak and new oak fla-vors. It’s a little on the soft side, suggesting that it’s ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $38

88 Drew 2010 Perli Vineyard Syrah (Men-docino Ridge). Made from low-yielding

vines, this is an absolutely dry Syrah—acidic and tannic. It doesn’t show much richness, bearing black pepper, iodine and charred beef flavors, with a deep inner core of wild blackberries. It’s complex rather than opulent—a wine to experience through the intellect, not just the senses. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38

87 Corkscrew 2007 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). Marked by dryness, brisk tannins and tart acid-

ity, this Syrah’s saving grace are rich flavors of black-berries, teriyaki beef and Baker’s chocolate. Your best bet is to drink it soon. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $35

87 Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Syrah (Paso Robles). Niner has been nothing if not consis-

tent with this Syrah for years. The 2008 tastes as fresh as the day it was bottled. It’s rich and spicy in flavors of blackberry, roasted meat and black pepper. It’s a little country in its rustic texture and a little city in its charms. Drink now with beef stew, tamales, tacos or barbecued ribs. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

84 San Simeon 2008 Syrah (Paso Robles). This Syrah is bone dry, tannic and simple. The

blackberry jam and pepper flavors are tasty, but unable to rise above the astringency. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

84 San Simeon 2008 Syrah (Monterey). There’s too much acidity in this Syrah. It cuts

across the blackberry flavors like a hot knife. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

81 Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Shiraz (Califor-nia). This is thin and uninspiring, but it’s dry,

with watery berry and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8

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81 Paredon 2007 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This Syrah is overripe. It has a taste

of raisins and prunes —a baked, Porty quality—like the grapes had been grilled before being made into wine. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

PETITE SIRAH

92 Girard 2010 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). Girard’s recent Petite Sirahs have been great,

really defining a Napa approach to the variety, and their 2010 is right up there. It’s fairly high in alcohol, but there’s no trace of overripeness. You’ll find delicious blackberry jam, black currant, grilled bacon and black pepper flavors that finish dry, spicy and above all, satis-fying. Wonderful now, but it should easily negotiate the next 10 years in the bottle. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

91 Keating 2009 Petite Sirah (Rockpile). A big, strong, bold Petite Sirah, showing the

variety’s usual power, dryness and tannins. The warm-to-hot Rockpile appellation has ripened the wine to an incredible density of blackberries and roasted meats, yet the wine shows finesse despite its high alcohol. This will age for many years without developing additional interest, so drink now with lusty barbecue or beef and game stews. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $38

89 Varozza 2008 Petite Sirah (St. Helena). This is a strongly flavored, brawny, tannic and

heady wine. In other words, it’s classic Petite Sirah. The variety does particularly well in St. Helena, whose heat brings extra ripeness, but whose cool nights preserve acidity. Varozza’s ’08 has delicious flavors of black cur-rant, plum, bacon and black pepper; it should last at least a decade. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $50

87 Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). There’s a tight, tannic coarse-

ness to this Petite Sirah that makes it a little bitter and difficult. On the other hand, it’s elegantly structured, with a rich core of blackberries. This suggests ageability, it could improve in the bottle. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

85 Fleur 2009 Petite Sirah (North Coast). A light style of Petite Sirah, this is softly drinkable

now, offering a wealth of cherry, mocha and tobacco fla-vors and gentle tannins. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $13

82 Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). A thin

wine, this has light blackberry fruit, and while it’s nicely dry, the tannins are strong and sticky, and the alcohol is very high, lending a slight burn to the palate. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $35

82 Pennywise 2010 Petite Sirah (California). A simple, rustic wine, this is fairly sweet and

tannic, with blackberry and raisin flavors. A burger or sloppy Joe on a bun will be just fine as a pairing. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $12

80 Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Petite Sirah (California). This doesn’t taste quite ripe, with

its green, stemmy flavors, but it’s sugary sweet in cherry Life Saver candy. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $8

ZINFANDEL

91 Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Old Vine Zin-fandel (Dry Creek Valley). This Zinfandel,

made using grapes from vines the winery says average 90 years of age, is pretty and polished. It’s surprisingly light in body, with a silky, transparent mouthfeel, but the flavors are very complex. The usual wild berry and tobacco flavors are apparent, but there are extra notes of espresso, cocoa, sweet herb, beef jerky and an extrava-gant array of dusty Asian spices. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 V. Sattui 2009 Gilsson Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). The winery has been

on a roll the last few years with Zinfandels that not only are delicious, but show real class. With this bottling. V. Sattui captures the essence of ripe, heady Russian River Zinfandel. Yes, the alcohol is high, but that’s Zinfandel for you, and without it you wouldn’t have that ripe, spicy berry-pie flavor that’s as soft as candy. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $37

89 V. Sattui 2009 Ramazzotti Vineyard Zin-fandel (Dry Creek Valley). This lusty Zin

shows the briary, brambly character of Dry Creek Val-ley that always makes its Zins taste a little rustic, which in no way detracts from its deliciousness. Dry and rich in tannins, it has long, deep flavors of spices, perfectly ripe summer berries and an herbal bitterness suggestive of chamomile tea and wild nettles. A better pizza wine cannot be imagined. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $36

88 Kunde 2009 Reserve Century Vines Zin-fandel (Sonoma Valley). This is not Kunde’s

best Reserve, but its entirely satisfying. It floods the mouth with lusty, spicy flavors of wild berry, currant, cola and tobacco that are wrapped into intricately wo-ven tannins. It finishes dry, but a little hot. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

87 Gracianna 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Zin-fandel (Russian River Valley). There are

massive flavors in this wine, and they’re delicious. It just floods the mouth with milk chocolate, raspberry cream and cherry pie-filling flavors. The wine is pretty high in alcohol, but it’s a classically rich, ripe Sonoma Zin. —S.H. abv: 15.9% Price: $42

87 Lake Sonoma 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Dry and spicy, this has lots of upfront

fruit in the form of wild raspberries and cherries, and rich tannins that make it great for pairing with grilled steaks and chops. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $18

87 Miro 2010 Grist Vineyard Old Vines Zin-fandel (Dry Creek Valley). So concentrat-

ed in sweet raspberry and cherry fruit, it’s basically all about jam. It’s a delicious wine, a little on the rustic side, but appealing. The sweetness, tannins and acidity should allow this to pair well with Mexican food. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $28

87 Miro 2010 Piccetti Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). With its tangy acidity,

touches of green peppercorns and edgy tannins, this is a rustic wine. Fortunately, it has a lot of blackberry and dark chocolate flavors, with that distinctive briary character of Dry Creek Zins. Drink now with roasted or grilled meats or a vegetarian lasagna. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

86 Ancient Peaks 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro-bles). Here’s a rich, heady Zinfandel. It defines

the ripe, warm-climate style, with flavors of wild berry jam, chocolate and spice that are wrapped into firm tan-nins. With a slightly sweet finish, it’s a nice Zin to drink with barbecue. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $17

86 The Federalist 2009 Visionary Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This is a soft, easy-drink-

ing Zinfandel to enjoy now with everything from meat-balls and spaghetti to barbecue. It’s dry and silky, with pleasant raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

85 Crooked Path 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro-bles). You can call this wine country-style be-

cause it’s a simple little Zin, but it has a certain charm. Drink it with a nice pizza or meatball hoagie and enjoy the black raspberry and pepper flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $24

85 XYZin 2010 10 Year Old Vines Zinfan-del (California). Robust and lusty, spicy and

fruity, this has sweet berry and cola flavors. Drink it with savory fare, like pizza and barbecue. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $16

84 Decoy 2010 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Simple, fruity and sweet tasting, this has choc-

olate-covered raisin and blueberry jam flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

84 Minassian-Young 2010 1000 Vines Zin-fandel (Paso Robles). This seems sweet like

a Port. It tastes like raspberry and cherry jam, with lots of heat from the alcohol. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

84 Minassian-Young 2010 Estate Zinfandel (Paso Robles). With very high alcohol, this is

almost a dessert, Port-style wine. It’s soft and hot, with sweet blackberry jam, milk chocolate and licorice fla-vors. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $25

84 Napa Cellars 2010 Zinfandel (Napa Val-ley). This is a vigorous Zinfandel, fruity and

soft, with berry, cola and spice flavors. Drink now with barbecue, burgers or beef burritos. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $18


84 Plungerhead 2010 Old Vine Zinfan-del (Dry Creek Valley). The mouthfeel has

sandpapery tannins and some green peppercorn notes alongside riper flavors of blackberries and sweet cur-rants. It’s a rustic Zin to drink with barbecue. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $20

84 Twisted Sisters 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro-bles). This is for you, if you like your Zins in a

sweet, soft style. It tastes like the filling from a black-berry and cherry pie, dusted with exotic spices, like cin-namon and black pepper. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $20

84 V. Sattui 2009 Mounts Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). There’s an unripe, green

edge to this Zinfandel that detracts from its appeal. Yet it has some good blackberry fruit, and it’s nicely dry and tannic. Pair this with rich meats and cheeses to coax out the sweetness. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $35

83 Zinopolis 2011 Zinfandel (California). This is nowhere near ripe, with chlorophyll,

white pepper and tobacco flavors. But the tannins are rich and fine, and the finish is dry. Drink with sausages to coax out the cherry flavor. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $19

82 Calcareous 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Ro-bles). This seems so sweet, it’s practically a

Port dessert wine. It’s soft and simple, with chocolate and blackberry jam flavors. —S.H. abv: 16.2% Price: $34

SANGIOVESE

87 Carr 2009 Vandale Vineyard Sangiovese (Santa Ynez Valley). This Sangiovese is

marked by two things, extreme dryness and high acidity. It’s as light in the mouth as a Pinot Noir, with measured flavors of red cherries, raisins and pepper, and a toasty jacket of new oak. You can drink it now, but it needs rich Italian fare, with lots of cheese, olive oil and fatty meats, to tame those acids. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Eberle 2009 Hidden Valley Vineyard 51%, Wine Bush Vineyard 36%, Filipponi &

Thompson Vineyard 13% Sangiovese (Paso Ro-bles). Eberle’s Sangioveses are always dry, acidic and cherried. On their own, they’re tight, rustic little mon-sters. Drink them with appropriate fare, and suddenly you’re in Tuscany. Get out your Italian cookbook and find something with beef, fettucine, ragu and plenty of cheese. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $24

87 Muscardini 2009 Monto Rosso Vineyard Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). You’ll want

to drink this wine with beef, cheese and richly sauced foods, in order to balance out the dryness and acidity. On its own, it’s austere, with cherry and sandalwood fla-vors. Rich, fatty fare will tame it and bring out the sweet fruit. —S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $36

OTHER RED WINES

92 Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Pocai Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley).


92 Kunde 2009 Limited Selection Petite Ver-dot (Sonoma Valley). A wonderful wine, one

of the best Petite Verdots in California, although the truth is there aren’t all that many. It’s sturdy in tannins and richly textured, with delicious blackberry flavors that are a little earthier and drier than Cabernet Sau-vignon. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

88 Peachy Canyon 2009 Ms. Behave Malbec (Paso Robles). Lots of flashy, upfront black-

berry and tamari-splashed grilled-beef flavor in this tasty wine. Plenty of savory spices, too. It’s a little rug-ged in the mouth, with scoury tannins, but will play well with beef, any way you cook it. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

88 Wattle Creek 2009 Malbec (Alexander Valley). A dry, gritty red wine, lusty and tan-

nic. The blackberry, cassis liqueur and smoky oak flavors suggest pairing with charred steak. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $38

87 Eberle 2010 Steinbeck Vineyard 48%, Ko-kopelli Vineyard 43%, Partridge Vineyard

9% Barbera (Paso Robles). Four qualities distin-guish this Barbera. It’s bone dry, high in acidity, rigid-ly tannic and rich in cherries. By itself, it’s rustic and old-fashioned. But it’s the kind of wine the oldtimers drank with the cheese, meat, bread and sauce, and so should you. Like any respectable Barbera, it will age for decades, softening and sweetening without necessarily gaining complexity. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $28

DESSERT WINES

88 Robert Mondavi 2011 Moscato d’Oro (Napa Valley). This wine has plenty of hon-

eyed sweetness. The apricot, orange and vanilla flavors are just delicious. Crisp acidity provides the perfect zesty balance. —S.H. abv: 8% Price: $20/375 ml

87 Ballentine 2011 Betty’s Vineyard Malva-sia Bianca (St. Helena). Could almost be

classified as a dry table wine, it’s so rich in acidity and minerally on the finish. However, there’s just enough honey to call it off-dry and dessert style. Either way, it’s a stylish wine, crisp and clean, with orange and pear fla-vors. Great as a simple accompaniment to fresh fruit, ricotta or mascarpone dishes. —S.H. abv: 9.5% Price: $29

86 Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve Vintage Port (Alexander Valley). This is

quite a sweet wine, rich and heady in chocolate, black-berry and blueberry jam and caramel flavors. It could

be more concentrated, as it’s a little thin. The variety is Petite Sirah. —S.H. abv: 18.5% Price: $50

86 Valley of the Moon 2007 Late Bottled Vin-tage Port (Sonoma County). Intense sweet-

ness goes a long way toward making this dessert wine delicious and satisfying. While it’s a bit lacking in fruity concentration, it does have good blackberry and milk chocolate flavors. —S.H. abv: 19% Price: $30/500 ml

85 Lost Angel 2010 Moscato (California). Rides the wave of the Moscato craze in Amer-

ica, offering sweet, honeyed flavors of tropical fruits, oranges and peaches. Zesty acidity provides just the tartness needed to balance all that richness. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

84 Black Box 2010 Sweet Red Blend (Cali-fornia). Black Box hops onto the popular sweet

red wine train with this blend. It is, as advertised, sweet, but not too much, giving a sugary edge to the blackber-ries and cherries. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $25/3 L

83 Peju NV Delicias Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Despite lots of sugary sweetness and a fine burst

of acidity, this dessert-style wine is watery thin in flavor. The raspberries and cherries taste diluted, leaving be-hind the impression of hot, high alcohol. —S.H. abv: 17.9% Price: $50/375 ml

OREGON

CHARDONNAY

91 Adelsheim 2010 Caitlin’s Reserve Char-donnay (Willamette Valley). Showing a lot

of barrel toast in both nose and mouth, this backs its buttered apple flavor with plenty of acidity. It’s like bit-ing into a crisp-tasting slice of apple pie; delicious now, or hold for another 4–6 years. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $45

89 Adelsheim 2010 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Fine balance is a hallmark for all

Adelsheim wines. This shows a mix of citrus and apple fruit, with the tartness of gooseberries as a nod to the cooler vintage. There is some pleasing complexity, with an emphasis on herbs and high-acid fruits. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $22

88 Lange 2010 Chardonnay (Willamette Val-ley). Fresh and spicy, this tart young Chard has

a streak of wintergreen mint. Aged in a mix of stainless steel and neutral French oak, it’s an excellent seafood wine. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $16

87 Lange 2010 Three Hills Cuvée Chardon-nay (Willamette Valley). This reserve-level

Chardonnay does not outperform the winery’s regular bottling. Some light cinnamon spice adorns the clean, simple green-apple fruit. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $30

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87 Witness Tree 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Forward and lightly

toasty, this barrel-fermented Chard is a very nice sum-mertime sipping wine. Apple and stone fruits combine in a gentle, forward, nicely balanced white wine. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $15

85 A to Z 2011 Chardonnay (Oregon). Clean, forward, simple apple and herb flavors com-

bine. This is a serviceable, all-purpose Chardonnay, that finishes just a bit sour. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $14

85 Amalie Robert 2010 Her Silhouette Char-donnay (Willamette Valley). Oregon Char-

donnay in the low 12% alcohol range is well out of the ordinary, but it reflects the vintage conditions in 2010. This is a wine for acid lovers, with very tart green-apple fruit and a bit of spice. —P.G. abv: 12.4% Price: $22

PINOT GRIS

92 Ponzi 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val-ley). Fragrant with floral notes, lemony fruit

and hints of apricot, this is a tangy, textural take on Pinot Gris. Fermented in stainless steel and released young, it retains a bright and stylish profile right through a linger-ing finish, with a touch of sweetness. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

91 David Hill 2011 Estate Pinot Gris (Willa-mette Valley). Though low in alcohol even by

David Hill standards, this excellent Pinot Gris does not lack fruit or flavor. Ripe and tasting of pretty pear and orange fruit, it shows evidence of some well-balanced residual sugar. Vivid acidity cuts through to a satisfying finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

91 Seven Hills 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). A glorious, grapefruity, lusciously fresh Pinot Gris,

this new vintage from Seven Hills is made for a sum-mer afternoon. This has notes of citrus and melon, with highlights of mint and a hint of pepper, keeping it lively and interesting all through the refreshing finish. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $17

90 Lange 2011 Reserve Pinot Gris (Willa-mette Valley). Aged in neutral French oak,

this Pinot Gris retains a lively, palate-cleansing acidity. It’s consistent in style and flavor with the regular bot-tling, but this has added depth and richness. Fruit fla-vors of sweet Macintosh apples give it a pretty finish. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $22

90 Terrapin Cellars 2011 Pinot Gris (Willa-mette Valley). This light and leesy wine has

excellent focus and refreshing minerality. Flavors of melon and kiwi highlight a complex but delicate wine, with lingering flavors and refreshing crispness. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $14

88 Coeur de Terre 2011 Pinot Gris (McMin-nville). Tart and racy, this is a European-style,

aromatic and elegant take on Pinot Gris. Whiffs of cel-ery, apple and citrus rind lead into flavors of grapefruit and lychee. This is definitely a great apéritif wine to en-joy chilled. —P.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $17

88 King Estate 2011 Signature Pinot Gris (Oregon). This is a benchmark rendition of

Pinot Gris. The flavors are fruit driven, with lime, apple and pear notes combining on the smooth, relatively soft midpalate. This is a consistent wine, even with its pro-duction level of 100,000 cases. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $17

88 Lange 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val-ley). This is a brisk, minerally, quite fresh white

wine. The cool vintage and low alcohol sets the flavors in the cucumber and apple corridor. Acids are firm but not sour; it’s a fine white wine for summer sipping. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $17

87 A to Z 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Bright, tangy flavors of grapefruit and pear are mixed

with skin tannins and a hint of minerality. There’s a slightly herbal edge, but this wine delivers a lot of flavor for the modest price. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Kings Ridge 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This is tart and steely, with a flavor of pear skin

rather than pear flesh, along with a green apple note and a whiff of grapefruit. Sharply acidic, it’s a wine that should pair well with spicy Asian cuisine. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $13

86 RoxyAnn 2010 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley). Gin-like botanical nuances in the nose intro-

duce a sharp, rather stiff and hard Pinot Gris. Grape-fruit and lemon rind flavors, along with plenty of acidity, seem less ripe than the 14.3% alcohol would suggest. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $17

OTHER WHITE WINES

91 Ghost Hill Cellars 2011 Bayliss-Bower Vineyard Pinot Noir Blanc (Yamhill-Carl-

ton District). Stainless-steel fermented and the color of wheat, this still white wine is stylish and compelling. If you’ve wondered why anyone would bother to make a white Pinot Noir, this is the answer. It’s fragrant with sweet grass and melon, then the flavors follow along with grapefruit and kiwi. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Ponzi 2011 Arneis (Willamette Valley). Unique and pungent, with hints of diesel, green

fruit and celery, this has some bite to it. Despite a green edge, it is precise and focused, with good grip and con-centration. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

88 Amalie Robert 2010 Our Muse Viognier (Willamette Valley). Silky, spicy and roundly

fruity, this estate-grown Viognier brings fruit flavors of

citrus, melon and a hint of pineapple. Nicely woven to-gether, it finishes with a citrus rind edge that’s softened with a suggestion of cream. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $30

87 Troon 2011 ’72 Vermentino (Applegate Valley). Troon lays claim to making the first

Vermentino in Oregon, and it’s more than just a curios-ity. Though tawny and heading toward early oxidation, the wine is drinking well, with a pretty nose of gunflint, apple pie and white peach aromas. The low alcohol re-flects a wine of restraint and balance. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $18

86 Witness Tree 2010 Estate Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley). Spicy, toasted coconut

scents reflect barrel fermentation. The rather deep straw color suggests a wine that is maturing quickly. Pleasant drinking, but don’t wait. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $15

84 Left Coast Cellars 2010 Left Bank Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley). The first bottle

was off, with an unpleasant mousy aroma. A second bottle fared a bit better, showing simple citrus and sour melon flavors. It finishes a bit thin. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $18

ROSÉ

88 Ghost Hill Cellars 2011 The Spirit Of Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This

pretty rosé has flavors of tart salmonberry and wild raspberry, with plenty of citrusy acidity. Good balance throughout. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

PINOT NOIR

91 Francis Tannahill 2009 The Hermit Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Beautifully structured,

this very limited bottling offers complex, tightly wound, finely spun red fruit. The depth and detail suggest that further cellaring will be well rewarded. Cellar Selec-tion. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

91 Lachini Vineyards 2009 Lachini Family Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains).

Much in the style of the outstanding 2008, this elegant, Burgundian-like Pinot Noir is a finessed wine, with lovely details of rose petal and penetrating raspberry fruit. There’s a pleasing transparency, keeping it light without losing focus or depth, and the finely rendered tannins put the perfect period at the end of the sen-tence. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

91 Rex Hill 2009 La Colina Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). There is a nice lift to the aro-

mas, which focus on sweet black-cherry fruit. Streaks of cola and brown sugar come into play in the mouth, but the rich fruit is the star of the show. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $52

91 William Hatcher 2008 Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). Full bodied and complex, this


is a fleshy Pinot Noir with fruit flavors that run from mulberry to spicy plum. Streaks of Dr. Pepper and some black pepper add finishing highlights. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

90 Coeur de Terre 2009 Renelle’s Block Re-serve Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Supple and

distinctive, this reserve-level wine offers flavors of blue-berry and black cherry, unusual curry and east Indian spice, and an earthy base. It was sourced from the vine-yard’s oldest block of estate fruit. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $58

90 Ghost Hill Cellars 2010 Bayliss-Bower Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton Dis-

trict). From a lighter year, this clean, delicate wine is a model of elegance. Mixing strawberry and raspberry fruit with a touch of watermelon, it carefully blends in a small amount of wine aged in new oak. An enticing hint of mocha is the result. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

90 Gresser Vineyard 2009 Pinot Noir (Che-halem Mountains). Nicely focused, with a

core of wild strawberry and black cherry, this bears herb and pepper highlights common to Oregon Pinot. It has a nice mouthfeel and is balanced throughout. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

90 Lachini Vineyards 2008 Cuvée Giselle Pi-not Noir (Chehalem Mountains). At first

taste, this is a difficult wine to evaluate because of its tight, compact and tannic structure. Pomegranate and strawberry fruits slowly emerge from a shell of earthy tannins, suggesting that with a few more years in the bottle this will evolve into a broader, more expressive wine. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $65

90 Lange 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). Lange’s reserve has a resonant,

spicy depth that elevates it above the well-made regular bottling. Tight and showing medium concentration, it shows a herb accent, with earthy tannins framing the tart cherry fruit. A hint of coconut marks the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $32

89 Amalie Robert 2009 Wadenswil Clone Pi-not Noir (Willamette Valley). A smooth en-

try leads into a pleasant midpalate with pretty mixed-fruit flavors of pomegranate, tart berry and Bing cherry. Light baking spices add further detail, with a streak of cola and sassafras to wrap it up. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

89 Lachini Vineyards 2010 S Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Light as a cloud,

this matches strawberry and raspberry fruit to a delicate frame of juicy acids and fine-tuned tannins. Crisp and ethereal, it is nonetheless thoroughly satisfying, with both length and complexity. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $48

88 Lange 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). This well-made Pinot sports tart straw-

berry and raspberry fruit, focused and lightly spicy. In the heart of the wine are accents of sandalwood and

toasty oak, which run through the penetrating finish. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $24

88 Rex Hill 2009 Roserock Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). The fruit carries a pleasing

sweetness onto the herb-flavored midpalate. Then ag-gressive flavors of stem and grape skin emerge, though perhaps they’re too dominant. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

88 Rex Hill 2009 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Though the list-

ed alcohol tops 15%, this remains a fruity and rather simple wine, with dominating flavors of raspberry and cherry cola. As good as it is, this could use a bit more muscle. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $58

88 Witness Tree 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). Clean and straightforward,

this is textbook Oregon Pinot Noir. Streaks and nuances of herb, resin and earth are matched to flavors of wild berry. A year maturing in 20% new French oak lends the finish a hint of toast. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $26

88 Witness Tree 2010 Vintage Select Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Though it was giv-

en twice as many new French oak barrels as the Estate bottling, this Vintage Select could be its twin. Solid and balanced, it mixes berry, herb and earth components, making for a well-structured, no-frills wine. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $40

87 Gresser Vineyard 2009 Vineyard Select Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This is

quite soft and pretty, a charming wine with appealing flavors of rose water, cherry and sandalwood. Not for keeping, but most enjoyable right now. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

87 Rex Hill 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). The nose features pleasing scents of toasty

barrel, but the palate turns a bit rough. Chewy, herbal flavors compete with tart red fruits before heading into a tannic, earthy finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $35

87 William Hatcher 2009 Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). Tart red fruit is swathed in

slightly green, tannic, earthy notes that shorten the fin-ish. Give it plenty of breathing time and it fleshes out a bit. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $48

86 Coeur de Terre 2010 Oregon Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Peppery and leaning to an

herbal set of flavors, this compensates with details of earth and bark, and a core of tart berry. This was a cool vintage in Oregon, but the winemaking is balanced and clean. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $20

86 Left Coast Cellars 2009 Cali’s Cuvée Pi-not Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a de-

cent, midpriced Pinot, soft and round, with light straw-berry flavors and a streak of licorice. The 18 months

in 60% new French oak adds a note of vanilla as well. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

86 Left Coast Cellars 2009 Right Bank Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This blend

is comprised frion various single-vineyard plots of Pommard clone Pinot Noir. Ripeness is an issue here. There’s pepper, tomato leaf and bitter herb flavors, while the fruit feels thin and finishes quickly. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $30

86 Pali 2010 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). The light and fruity flavors of

young vines dominate here, tart and sharp in this cool vintage. Raspberry and light herb open into a delicate, short, somewhat attenuated wine. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $50

86 Rex Hill 2009 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). At first, the

bright Bing cherry fruit carries suggestions of anise and mint, but in the mouth the wine does not deliver all that the nose promises. The tannins turn aggressively bitter. This falls short of the outstanding 2008. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $58

86 Rex Hill 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). This has appealing scents of

cherry fruit at first, then it quickly hits a wall and stops short. No amount of breathing time can make it budge. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

86 Witness Tree 2010 Chainsaw Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is the least expen-

sive of the Witness Tree Pinots, and the most widely available. Light and pretty, with apple and rasp berry fruit flavors, it’s well made, though slender in feel. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $20

85 A to Z 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This was a cool, difficult vintage, and the wine reflects that

with strong flavors of tomato juice and herb. A touch of tart pomegranate comes through also. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20

85 Seven of Hearts 2010 Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). Quite light, but pretty, with

delicate cherry and chocolate flavors. There is a bit of a hole in the middle, but it’s a decent quaff in a difficult vintage. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

85 Underwood Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (Or-egon). Pungent and assertive, this budget-

priced Pinot mixes wild berry fruit with accents of pine needle and herb. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $12

SYRAH

88 Troon 2008 Reserve Syrah (Applegate Valley). A whiff of leather introduces this tight,

interesting, southern Oregon Syrah. Black fruits, iron filings, and smooth tannins mark a wine made from

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grapes that were carefully selected (just three rows of vines) and given special consideration by winemaker Herb Quady. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

85 RoxyAnn 2009 Syrah (Rogue Valley). Cas-sis and black cherry aromas lead into similar, but

somewhat light fruit flavors. The mouthfeel is soft, but the tannins a bit green and hard. It has not really be-come integrated. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

83 Del Rio 2010 Syrah (Rogue Valley). Scents of toast and coffee reflect some time in a per-

centage of new oak, but there is little else going on here. Where’s the fruit? —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $35

RED BLENDS

88 Troon 2009 Old Vine Meritage (Applegate Valley). This is a tannic blend of all five Bor-

deaux grapes, with an earthy mix of cherry, herb and berry flavors. It’s elevated with pretty floral aromatics as well, and a hint of anise in the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

86 RoxyAnn 2008 Claret (Rogue Valley). Tannic to the point of stemmy, this hard and

compact blend includes 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. Chewy red fruits run into a tight, tough finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $26

83 Del Rio 2010 Claret (Rogue Valley). Rip-ening the grapes seems to have been an issue

here in 2010, at least as far as this Claret is concerned. This is a thin, green, tannic follow-up to the excellent 2009. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $35

TEMPRANILLO

85 RoxyAnn 2009 Tempranillo (Rogue Val-ley). Light and slightly spicy, this spent 15

months in one-third new French and American oak barrels, yet it comes across as a bit mild and one dimen-sional. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

83 Del Rio 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rogue Valley). Hard and herbal, this has

sour, barely-ripe fruit and chalky tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

82 Del Rio 2010 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Val-ley). Thin, green and tannic. —P.G.

abv: 12.3% Price: $28


FRUIT & FLORAL LIQUEURS

95 Briottet Crème de Mure (France; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA).

This light and nuanced blackberry liqueur is ideal for adding color and flavor to cocktails. Garnet in hue, with a berry-like aroma and flavor with a gentle clove note—this finishes well balanced between tart and sweet. abv: 18% Price: $33

95 The Bitter Truth Apricot Liqueur (Germa-ny; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New

York, NY). Among the best of the fruit liqueurs, this delicious spirit is sippable straight up, and would be a lovely accompaniment to shortbread or other desserts. Rich scents of apples and stone fruits abound, with a faint spicy aroma reminiscent of Cognac. Coats the pal-ate with true apricot flavor and a hint of baking spices. abv: 22% Price: $34

94 Hum Botanical Spirit (USA; American Still Life Collection, Ashland, VA). De-

veloped by Chicago bartender Adam Seger, this rum-based liqueur has had a speedy ascent in the past couple of years as a must-have for mixologists. The deep garnet hue is derived from macerated hibiscus. Although it has a warm, earthy floral-fruity base, the spice notes—gin-ger, cardamom, kaffir lime—get a little wild and take center stage. It can stand alone, but this liqueur is at its best mixed into cocktails. abv: 35% Price: $40

93 Briottet Crème de Cassis (France; An-chor Distilling Company, San Francisco,

CA). A deep, dark burgundy color, this black-currant liqueur is rich and thick, with jam-like grape and rai-sin flavors. abv: 20% Price: $33

93 Dancing Pines Cherry Tart (USA; Danc-ing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Made

with tart cherries and no artificial flavorings or color-ings, this ruddy spirit blends tart and sweet cherry and cranberry flavors, and would be particularly outstanding mixed with Champagne or gin. The only missed step is that it’s not particularly aromatic—otherwise, this spirit would have scored even higher. abv: 25% Price: $36

93 Gabriel Boudier-Dijon Crème de Fraises (France; 21st Century Spirits, Commerce,

CA). Heads up to bartenders fond of using jam in cock-tails: here’s a viable alternative. Made with wild straw-berries and black currants, this spirit boasts a nice true-berry flavor that’s earthy and complex, with a faint cin-namon note on the finish. Almost Port-like, this berry elixir would be outstanding paired with dark chocolate. abv: 20% Price: $25

93 Mathilde Poire (France; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Bal-

anced, light and delicate, this pale gold pear liqueur has a fresh, crisp aroma, melding fruit and white flowers. The fruit flavors are bolder on the palate, sweet but not overly so. While light enough to sip straight, this is also an appealing way to add fruity notes to cocktails made with white rum or gin, or mix it with sparkling wine. abv: 18% Price: $28

93 Merlet Crème de Fraise des Bois (France; MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY).

Dessert-like and syrupy, this berry liqueur should be considered for pouring over ice cream or using it to glaze berries for a tart. Of course, with its deep cherry color and luscious strawberry-jam scent and bright fla-vor, it’s a pleasing spirit for sipping, too.abv: 18% Price: $25

93 Senior Curacao (Curacao; Anchor Distill-ing Company, San Francisco, CA). This

clear and bright orange liqueur features a perky can-died-orange flavor and aroma, with brisk lemon peel on the finish. Light, clean and appealing for a broad range of cocktails. abv: 31% Price: $26

93 The Bitter Truth Violette Liqueur (Germa-ny; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New

York, NY). The dense color is hypnotic: an impressive-ly deep, dark, inky violet blue. Luckily, the flavor is less intense. Instead, it’s sweet and light bodied, with a dis-tinctive violet flavor that pulls back before it becomes too perfumy or overpowering, with a delicate, clean fin-ish. Overall, an excellent pick for floral-tinged cocktails, like an aviation. abv: 22% Price: $48

92 Di Amore Gran Orange (Italy; Buffalo Trace Distillery, Frankfort, KY). With its lus-

cious sugared-orange peel and spicy cinnamon and gin-ger notes, this lovely triple sec is a top pick for a side-car—or any brandy cocktail, for that matter. The warm, elegant, velvety feel belies its stance at 80 proof, on the high end for a liqueur. Think of it as an iron fist within that velvet glove. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $19

92 Echte Kroatzbeere Blackberry Liqueur (Germany; Niche Import Co., Cedar

Knolls, NJ). Rich and lovely, this wild-blackberry liqueur is reminiscent of fresh fruit warmed in the sun. A concentrated, nearly opaque plum hue, the earthy, ripe fruit flavor builds with repeated sips. Dash a bit into a bubbly drink like a Kir, or serve as a dessert pair-ing with dark chocolate. abv: 30% Price: $35

92 Luxardo Limoncello (Italy; Anchor Distill-ing Company, San Francisco, CA). This

light limoncello has a candied-lemon aroma and flavor and a zingy herbal note on the finish, similar to lemon-grass. Light feel. abv: 27% Price: $26

91 Bottega Limoncino (Italy; Palm Bay Inter-national, Port Washington, NY). For full re-

view see page 10. abv: 30% Price: $24

91 Mathilde Orange XO (France; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY).

Made with Cognac, this deep-gold orange liqueur is higher proof than most, and comes across as a little hot. Nevertheless, it’s delicious, with enticing honey, baking spice and flower notes. A pleasing note of bitter orange peel cuts the sweetness and refreshes the palate. This would be particularly delightful mixed with brown spir-its like brandy or whiskey. abv: 40% Price: $28

91 Merlet Crème de Peche (France; MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). Bright

gold, with a rich, sticky ripe-peach aroma reminiscent of the juice in a can of peaches. The flavors evoke Sau-ternes and honey, with a surprisingly light finish. Great addition to sparkling wine for a Bellini-style drink, or mix with white rum for a light, peachy cocktail. abv: 18% Price: $25

91 Sorel Liqueur (USA; Jack from Brooklyn, Brooklyn, NY). For full review see page 10.

abv: 15% Price: $28

90 Alberti Limoncello (Italy; Niche Import, Cedar Knolls, NJ). Pale yellow and slightly

cloudy, this limoncello has a mild lemon-juice scent and interestingly complex flavors. Although candy-sweet at first, the liqueur evolves into an elongated, palate-cleansing finish with lemongrass, white pepper and a faint touch of anise. Would be lovely frozen into sorbet or poured over crushed or shaved ice. abv: 30% Price: $20

90 Mathilde Framboise (France; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY).

A little of this concentrated, intensely fruity liqueur will

Liqueurs and cordials are a burgeoning—and diverse—category. The one thing they all have in common is a spirits base

and added sweetener. But from there, the doors fling open

wide, encompassing fruity and floral, bitter and herbal, rich and dessert-like, and many variations within each of those categories. Some of these, such as the fruity-herbal

digestif Killepitsch from Germany, have a storied history dating back to the 1800s or earlier. Others, such as Dancing Pines, a new line of liqueurs from Colorado, are shiny-new to the market.

Valuable as post-prandial sippers as well as flavorful cocktail mixers, here are some picks for best in class.

—KaRa NewmaN

SPIRITS

LUSCIOUS LIQUEURS & CORDIALS

WineMag.com | 71

go a long way. Almost Port-like or jam-like, this syrupy spirit has a deep garnet hue and a dark berry flavor, making it a fine choice for sweetening a dessert or cock-tail. Even with a significant amount of dilution, the fruit continues to ring out. abv: 18% Price: $28

90 Mathilde Peche (France; Deutsch Fam-ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This

pale-gold peach liqueur has a bright, sweet apple-peach scent and flavor, finishing with a breeze of white blos-som. Medium bodied, fresh and sippable, this would be especially nice in a Bellini. abv: 18% Price: $28

90 Merlet Crème de Cassis (France; MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). Save this

plush black-currant liqueur for adding bold flavor and color to Kir royales—it’s almost too thick for straight-up sipping. This deep plum-colored liquid is so viscous, it clings to the sides of the glass, and feels alarmingly like swallowing liquefied jam. Yet, it’s a remarkably true ex-pression of fruit: earthy, round and balanced between sweet and tart flavors. Add to gin for a bramble cocktail. abv: 20% Price: $25

90 Merlet Triple Citrus (France; MHW/Bed-ford & Grove, Louisville, KY). London-

based mixologist Tony Conigliaro collaborated on this 100%-natural orange liqueur, made from blood orange, bitter orange and lemon. It’s certainly versatile, and would complement a wide range of cocktails, from mar-garitas to sidecars. The clear spirit has a sweet orange-peel and lightly floral aroma, and a pure, clean orange flavor, with just a bit of warmth on the finish to balance out the sweetness. abv: $40% Price: $30

90 Luxardo Apricot (Italy; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). Delectable

apricot flavor drizzled with sticky Sauternes and a dry finish with baking spice and black tea make this a pleas-ing choice for a dessert pairing. Sadly, this dark amber liqueur has barely any aroma to match the complex fla-vors, otherwise it would have scored higher. abv: 30% Price: $27

90 Luxardo Cherry Liqueur (Italy; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA).

The deep, dark garnet hue hints at the earthy, subtle cherry aroma and dark-berry flavors. This is warming and medium bodied. abv: 30% Price: $26

90 Pages Parfait Amour Crème de Violette (France; Anchor Distilling Company, San

Francisco, CA). The vivid violet color telegraphs the aroma: floral and sweet, like violet pastilles, with a long finish. The violet flavor is clear and true, although it veers dangerously close to soapy. abv: 25% Price: $35

90 Santoni Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Fam-ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This

vibrant yellow spirit has a strong lemon aroma and a sweet, big citrus flavor that finishes with a pleasing, cleansing pine note. It has a viscous feel. abv: 30% Price: $21

89 Bellini Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Despite

its thin, cloudy appearance and light citrus scent, this li-moncello delivers surprisingly big lemon sweetness and zingy notes of ginger and lemongrass.abv: 30% Price: $18

89 Merlet Crème de Framboise (France; MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY).

This 100% natural liqueur has a fruity, earthy, deeply concentrated dark-berry aroma and dark purple color that’s nearly opaque. On the palate, the flavors evoke blackberry compote and plums, and the spirit has a syr-upy feel. abv: 18% Price: $25

89 Midori (Mexico; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). You may be surprised to

learn this liqueur is made in Mexico—not Japan. Still, most will recognize that textured bottle with the bright neon-green liquid inside. The fragrance is enticing, scented with honeydew, white flowers and fresh green apple. The flavor is sweet, big and melony, with a clean, lightly floral finish. Light bodied, perky and bright, this is meant for mixing. abv: 20% Price: $25

89 Pages Maurin (France; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). Perhaps

you’ve seen the dark bottle with the green devil, and wondered what on earth was inside. Answer: It’s a forti-fied sweet white wine spiked with cherries and quinine. All this makes for an enticing apéritif with a cherry-red hue. The flavors are subtle and earthy, alternating be-tween sweet and tart, with a modest—some might say angelic—alcohol level. abv: 16% Price: $39

89 PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur (USA; Heav-en Hill Distilleries, Louisville, KY). Made

with pomegranate juice, vodka and Tequila, this light-bodied, translucent ruby liqueur is bracingly tart, and reads closer to cranberry than pomegranate juice. This will stand up well to dilution, making it a good pick for cocktail mixing. abv: 17% Price: $25

89 TY KU Liqueur (USA; Entertainment Fu-sion Group, New York, NY). First, you’ll

notice the tall, pyramid-like bottle filled with pale jade liquid. Second, when lifting the bottle, you’ll notice it lights up. Third, pour and you’ll notice the fresh, soft melon scent. The flavor reads tart at first, fading into a juicy, sweet finish, with a touch of mouthwatering acid-ity. Light bodied and mixable, this is made with soju, as well as yuzu, honeydew and green tea. abv: 20% Price: $25

88 Cedilla Liqueur (Brazil; Leblon USA, Manhasset, NY). New to the U.S. market,

Cedilla is made by infusing cachaça with açai berries grown in the Amazon region. Intense, plummy color with a sweet grape-soda aroma and flavor balanced out by a tartness on the finish and a faint cinnamon note. It goes down easy straight up, but would also be good mixed with sparkling wine or gin—or possibly cachaça. abv: 25% Price: $33

88 Cristiani Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Fam-ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This

limoncello has a light yellow, cloudy appearance, and a brisk lemon-lime flavor with a clean finish and a hint of lemon zest. abv: 25% Price: $19

88 Hiram Walker Caramel Apple (USA; Per-nod Ricard USA, Purchase, NY). Those

with a sweet tooth will enjoy this bright golden liqueur as a sweetener for fall cocktails and hot drinks. Although the aroma delivers a finely tuned apple and caramel scent, caramel dominates the flavor, lingering and coat-ing the palate. That said, the sweetness is well balanced. abv: 15% Price: $10

88 Kinky Liqueur (USA; Crosby Lake Spirits Company, Saint Paul, MN). Cloudy carna-

tion pink, with a juicy, grapefruit-like aroma and citrus flavor. Made with vodka, blood orange, mango and pas-sion fruit. Although this appears to be made to mix, the modest alcohol level suggests this is intended as a ready-to-drink product. This has a distinctive curvy frosted bottle. abv: 17% Price: $20

88 Mariposa Agave Nectar Liqueur (USA; Heaven Hill Distilleries, Bardstown, KY).

New to the U.S. market, Mariposa (Spanish for but-terfly) is made with agave nectar, Tequila and vodka. It has a pale straw color and a honeyed agave scent with a light, perfumed rose note. On the palate, it reads as very sweet, like drinking thinned agave nectar with a splash of Tequila and vanilla on the finish. With good mixing potential, such as with lime and Tequila (or other spir-its), Mariposa has the potential for creating fascinating new margarita hybrids. abv: 30% Price: $25

88 Mathilde Cassis (France; Deutsch Fam-ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Dark

purple, nearly opaque, with a wine-like scent. Warm and rich, this black currant spirit coats the tongue and palate with big, grape-berry flavors. It’s best lightened with bubbly, as in a Kir royale. abv: 16% Price: $28

88 Merlet Crème de Poire (France: MHW/Bedford & Grove, Manhasset, NY). This

100%-natural pear liqueur has a light, ripe pear scent and a sweet, syrupy flavor that evokes apple, pear and tropical fruit. abv: 18% Price: $25

88 X-Rated Fusion Liqueur (Italy; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). Dainty car-

nation pink, and smells like a grapefruit-flavored ener-gy drink. The flavor is juicy and tart on the entry, but finishes rather sweet, reminiscent of grapefruit-spiked lemonade. Made with French vodka mixed with blood orange, mango and passion fruit. Although this appears to be made to mix, the modest alcohol level suggests this is intended as a ready-to-drink product. Distinctive tall frosted bottle. abv: 17% Price: $25

87 Intrigue Pink (France; Arcadia Imports, Plainville, CT). Bright pale-pink colored, with

a strong grapefruit scent. The flavor is sweet, slightly ersatz, with touches of grapefruit and peach. Made with


French vodka, peach and passion fruit, and produced by Cognac maker Louis Royer. abv: 25% Price: $22

87 Luxardo Triplum (Italy; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). This orange

liqueur from Italy has a fleeting citrus scent but a big, sweet flavor, with a pronounced orange-peel note and a pulse of alcohol on the finish. abv: 39% Price: $28

86 Gabriel Boudier-Dijon Crème de Fram-boises (France; 21st Century Spirits,

Commerce, CA). Made with “a harmonious blend of Scottish and Burgundy raspberries,” this liqueur sports a deep, vivid dark-cherry hue and a mouth-filling cher-ry-berry preserves flavor. However, the spirit finishes with a subdued, earthy note, and has a lighter feel than expected. abv: 20% Price: $25

86 Given Liqueur (France; Given Imports, New York, NY). Made with agave Tequila and

lime juice, this bright buttercup-yellow liqueur has a sweet-tart flavor and a lingering lime note. Overall it is light and crisp, though it would benefit from a bolder burst of flavor. It appears to be meant to drink as is, but it would make a refreshing apéritif in a tall glass with soda and a fresh wedge of lime. abv: 17% Price: $35

85 Gabriel Boudier Dijon Creme de Cassis (France; 21st Century Spirits, Commerce,

CA). One of the earthier black currant liqueurs, meld-ing dark, plush berry with an oddly vegetal, spicy note with hints of oregano and bell pepper. Opaque plum color. abv: 20% Price: $25

85 Paradiso Lemon Cream (Italy; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY).

Creamy yellow appearance and mild lemon scent. In many ways, it’s reminiscent of lemon curd: thick and creamy, with a sweet flavor. Light lemony finish, with an herbal note. Made in Tuscany. abv: 17% Price: $21

85 Siegburg Apfel (Germany; Deutsch Fam-ily Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Look

for a light gold color and a ripe apple scent with a hint of resin. On the palate, this liqueur is sweet, with a hon-eyed apple essence. Light bodied. abv: 21% Price: $17/1 L

85 The Bitter Truth SloeBerry Blue Gin (Ger-many; Domaine Select Wine Estates,

New York, NY). A deep burgundy hue, with a fruity and floral scent. On the palate, the gin is tart, with a faint rose note and a dry, tannic feel. abv: 28% Price: $48

84 Intrigue Liqueur (France; Arcadia Im-ports, Plainville, CT). Made with French

vodka, Cognac and passion fruit, the most fun part of this spirit is the artificial color: its lurid lime-green color sure attracts attention! Look for a mild kiwi and lime

scent and a sweet, artificial flavor similar to an energy drink. abv: 17% Price: $22

83 Schonauer Apfel Apple Liqueur (Ger-many; Niche Import Co., Cedar Knolls,

NJ). Light gold in color with a juicy, true apple flavor. This apple schnapps would have scored higher were it not for the sticky, plastic-like aroma. abv: 21% Price: $20

WHISKEY-BASED LIQUEURS

92 Southern Comfort (USA; Southern Com-fort Company, Louisville, KY). This classic

whiskey-based liqueur has a familiar mix of oak, cara-mel and vanilla flavors. Since it’s only moderately sweet (despite the candy-like aroma) and has a fair amount of alcohol, it’s a versatile mixer with a wide range of soft drinks and juices. abv: 35% Price: $17

91 Irish Mist (Ireland; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). This dark amber liqueur

is made with Irish whiskey, honey and spices. Expect warm honey and vanilla flavors, with a perky cinna-mon note that winds into the finish. Creamy honey-like mouthfeel and syrupy consistency; excellent for mixing. abv: 35% Price: $28

91 Wild Turkey American Honey (USA; Cam-pari America, Lawrenceburg, KY). From

the makers of Wild Turkey Bourbon, this lovely liqueur is honey-sweet at first sip, but it braces up with a whis-per of alcohol. As the sweetness fades away, it leaves behind pretty honeysuckle and vanilla notes on the long finish. Enjoy this on the rocks or mixed. abv: 35.5% Price: $22

90 Southern Comfort Lime (USA; Southern Comfort Company, Louisville, KY). This

amber liqueur features a fresh lime scent with a hint of vanilla and acidic lime flavor on the palate, finishing bright and clean. The tart, mouthwatering citrus flavor is clearly meant for mixing with cola or ginger ale. abv: 27.5% Price: $17

88 Southern Comfort Bold Black Cherry (USA; Southern Comfort Company,

Louis ville, KY). A new entry to the SoCo line, ex-plicitly intended for mixing with cola. Despite the pro-nounced candy-like aroma—like a cherry Charms lolli-pop—the flavor is not as sweet or cherry-like as expect-ed. Instead, it’s a burst of oak and alcohol on the palate, which moderates when mixed. abv: 35% Price: $17

87 Mickey Finn Irish Apple Flavored Whis-key (The Netherlands; BABCO Imports,

Manhasset, NY). New to U.S. markets in spring/sum-mer 2012, this light-gold liqueur is made with a blend of Irish and American whiskies mixed with natural apple flavor. Look for a bright green-apple scent, fresh, juicy and tart, which is echoed on the palate, reading almost like tart apple juice at first. The liqueur finishes with an

alcoholic twang, where a touch of sweetness would have been welcome to temper the bite. Drink well chilled. abv: 35% Price: $25

OTHER LIQUEURS

96 Dancing Pines Chai (USA; Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Tea is one of the

hottest flavors in the mixology world now, and bartend-ers are going to fall in love with this complex, chai- inspired liqueur. Black-tea flavors meld with a vivid, spicy palette of orange peel, cinnamon and clove, with just a hint of sweetness and a mildly spicy finish. abv: 30% Price: $36

94 Patrón XO Café Dark Cocoa (Mexico; The Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV).

For full review see page 10.abv: 30% Price: $25

93 Chocolat Royal Liqueur by Marie Brizard (France; Imperial Brands, Palm Beach

Gardens, FL). From Bordeaux, this velvety-smooth chocolate liqueur is new to U.S. markets. It resembles dark-chocolate syrup in appearance, aroma, flavor and mouthfeel, and would be lovely in espresso-based cock-tails or poured over ice cream. abv: 17% Price: $28

93 Luxardo Amaretto (Italy; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). Look for a

bold marzipan aroma and almond flavor with a baking-spice finish and velvety feel. Use for dessert cocktails. abv: 28% Price: $28

92 D’Aristi Xtabentun (Mexico; Anchor Dis-tilling Company, San Francisco, CA). This

exotic liqueur comes with a spicy story: supposedly it’s named for Xtabay—a disgraced Mayan prostitute—and the aromatic flowers that eventually sprung from her grave, named xtabentun. The thick, pale yellow liqueur is made with honey, anisette and rum, and has a warm, funky honey-and-spice profile. It’s currently a darling among the mixology set, who are using it to flavor Te-quila and other spirits. abv: 30% Price: $26

92 Fennellys Irish Cream (Ireland; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY).

This light brown Irish-whiskey-based liqueur is reminis-cent of chocolate spiked with a hint of baking spice. It boasts a rich and creamy feel, with enticing chocolaty aromatics. abv: 17% Price: $14

91 Frangelico (Italy; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). Part of the classic liqueur

canon, this rich, sweet hazelnut cordial is instantly recognizable. Whether mixed into coffee, whiskey or creamy cocktails, this light-gold liqueur is as addictively sippable as ever. abv: 20% Price: $20

91 The Old Liquor Store Honey Liqueur (Spain; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits,

White Plains, NY). Smooth and sippable, this bright gold liqueur has a sweet honey scent, with notes of

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vanilla and tea. Look for a very sweet, creamy honey feel and flavor, enriched by a touch of hazelnut. abv: 24% Price: $22

91 Tuaca (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). This vanilla-citrus liqueur is a good, com-

plex sweetener for cocktails made with brandy, whiskey or other dark spirits. The amber liquid has a warm cara-mel aroma. On the palate, orange is the dominant fla-vor, warmed up with a bit of vanilla on the boozy finish. When the temperature sensitive bottle is chilled, the color of the design on the bottle changes from white to bright blue. abv: 35% Price: $22

90 Dancing Pines Black Walnut (USA; Danc-ing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Com-

plex and piquant, this flavored Bourbon liqueur reads like an amaro. The dark brown liquid has a spicy, her-baceous aroma and flavor, with sophisticated black pep-per, ginger and cinnamon accents, and a touch of nutty espresso richness. It doesn’t really resemble walnut, but that doesn’t really matter. Whatever it is, it’s delectable. abv: 38% Price: $36

90 Dancing Pines Brûlée Caramel (USA; Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO).

A very pure expression of caramel, this spirit has a dark honey color, mild caramel aroma, and creamy, sticky-toffee flavor. It coats the palate like drinking liquid milky caramel. Mix with Bourbon and other whiskies. It’s made with caramelized sugar cane, no other added flavorings. abv: 25% Price: $36

90 Senior Curacao Chocolate (Curacao; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White

Plains, NY). Those who hoard chocolate oranges at Christmas time will love this liqueur, which melds or-ange-peel and fudge flavors in a very grown-up way. With a translucent reddish-brown hue, bright choco-late-almond aroma and brandy-like finish, this is an ex-cellent mixer that can add an elusive chocolate edge to a cocktail or pair with dessert.abv: 25% Price: $34

89 Barenjager Honey Liqueur (Germany; Sidney Frank Importing, New Rochelle,

NY). Though an old-school German recipe, this thick honey-herbal liqueur is finding increasing use in the mixology world lately, often mixed with tea and dark spirits like Bourbon or brandy. True honey flavor, creamy feel. Cute beehive motif to the bottle and bottle cap. abv: 35% Price: $30

89 Bottega Gianduia (Italy; Palm Bay Inter-national, Port Washington, NY). For full re-


89 Dancing Pines Espresso (USA; Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). This small-

batch liqueur is like drinking iced coffee mixed with lots of sugar. Cloudy nut-brown appearance (“Contains real coffee beans. Separation occurs naturally,” the label

warns), espresso-like aroma, and sweetness on the pal-ate lead into a light coffee flavor. abv: 30% Price: $36

89 Pisa Liqueur (Italy; Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ). For full review see page 10.

abv: 24% Price: $25

88 Bottega Sambuca (Italy; Palm Bay Inter-national, Port Washington, NY). For full re-


88 Kalani Coconut Liquor (Mexico; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA).

This pale straw-colored liqueur features a sweet, light coconut fragrance and bright, lingering coconut flavor. Thick feel. abv: 30% Price: $26

88 Stone Barn Brandyworks Red Wing Roast Coffee Liqueur (USA; Stone Barn

Brandyworks, Portland, OR). For those seeking a true coffee experience in liqueur, here it is. From Port-land, Oregon, one of the capitals of coffee, Stone Barn Brandyworks has infused their Pinot Noir brandy with Yemeni and El Salvadoran coffees, along with vanilla, cinnamon and sugar. The end result is a fresh-brewed coffee aroma and flavor with a bitter edge, light feel and dark brown color. For a liqueur, a bit more sweetness would have been welcome. abv: 25% Price: $25

87 Café Granita Coffee Liqueur (USA; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White

Plains, NY). Bring on the white Russians! This deep brown, coffee-scented liqueur leans very sweet, and practically begs to be mixed with cream. abv: 21% Price: $14

87 Poli Miele Honey Liqueur (Italy; Winebow, New York, NY). A curiously old-fashioned

spirit, within an old-fashioned wine bottle with a tall, skinny neck topped with a swing-line cap. The yellow-tinged liqueur is botanical and citrusy up front, with grappa-like heat fading into a creamy honey note. abv: 35% Price: $35

85 Noyau de Poissy (France; Anchor Distill-ing Company, San Francisco, CA). The

oldest liqueur in France, dating to 1683, this liqueur features almonds and apricots macerated in Cognac. Nearly clear and clocking in at 80 proof, the spirit reads almost as almond extract, with its marshmallow fra-grance and sweet, lightly almond and floral flavor with a rush of heat on the finish. Consider using to add subtle flavor to cakes and confections. abv: 40% Price: $47

HERBAL LIQUEURS

95 Killepitsch (Germany; Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ). For full review see

page 10.abv: 42% Price: $25

94 Nardini Amaro (Italy; Winebow, New York, NY). Mixologists will love this deep

brown amaro for adding complex, sophisticated flavors to cocktails. Bold, warm dark-chocolate notes meld with a minty, herbal, palate-cleansing finish, and a surpris-ingly but mellow sweetness tempers the forward bitter notes. Lovely and light bodied. abv: 31% Price: $50/1 L

92 Luxardo Bitter (Italy; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). The bright,

vivid orange-red hue and Campari-like bitter scent and flavor make this a natural choice for Negronis, Ameri-canos and the like. abv: 25% Price: $26

92 Schwartzhog Kräuter Liqueur (Germany; The Other Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL). For


91 Jägermeister (Germany; Sidney Frank Importing, New Rochelle, NY). Despite its

overuse among college students as a get-drunk-quick shooter to cascade down ice luges, this is excellent digestif material for grown-ups too. This ruddy, herbal spirit is dominated by licorice and clove flavors, with a faint, bracingly bitter tinge in the medium-bodied mouth and on the finish. The college crowd got one thing right, though: Jäger is best icy cold. abv: 35% Price: $24

91 Luxardo Amaro Abano (Italy; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA).

Some amaros are tongue-curlingly bitter, but that is not the case with this one. Instead, bitter, sweet and herbal flavors are in harmonious balance, entwined with lin-gering spice, espresso and sarsaparilla notes. Great for apéritif and digestif cocktails seeking a bitter touch. abv: 30% Price: $26

91 The Bitter Truth E**X**R (France; Do-maine Select Wine Estates, New York,

NY). Produced by vermouth-maker Dolin in France for Germany’s Bitter Truth label, this nut-brown li-queur has a surprising bitter aroma and a mix of bitter and berry-sweet on the tongue, finishing with a smatter-ing of ginger, cinnamon and black pepper. Although this would be ideal dashed into cocktails, it’s also enjoyable splashed into ginger ale. abv: 30% Price: $34

90 Becherovka (Czech Republic; Pernod Ri-card USA, Purchase, NY). This cheery but-

tercup-yellow spirit evolves from sweet to bitter in sec-onds flat. At first, it has a sweet, honey-like cast, then ginger and other herbal notes develop and, finally, it fin-ishes dry, with an amaro-like bitter note. Traditionally consumed neat, Becherovka also stands up well to dilu-tion (tonic, club soda) and makes a particularly refresh-ing apéritif chilled with a squeeze of lime. abv: 38% Price: $24

90 Helbing Kummel (Germany; Niche Im-port Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). Despite the

tall, square-shouldered green glass bottle, the spirit in-side is clear and bright. Look for a light sweetness and


pronounced anise and caraway flavors. Induces cravings for a slice of fresh rye bread. Best chilled. abv: 35% Price: $32/1 L

90 The Old Liquor Store Green Tea Liqueur (Spain; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits,

White Plains, NY). No doubt, this is a tea liqueur. The amber color evokes weak black tea. The aroma is reminiscent of herbal tea with notes of chamomile and mint. The flavor is similar to sweetened chai, thanks to the allspice and cinnamon finish. It’s enough to warrant serving this liqueur in China teacups. abv: 24% Price: $19

89 Goldwasser (Germany; Niche Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). Made since the 1500s, the

trademark of this cinnamon-flavored schnapps is the flakes of 22-karat gold suspended in the clear liquid. The flavor is very sweet, with a candied Red-Hots fla-vor. It doesn’t even feel like 40 proof. No wonder it’s so popular as a shooter: it goes down easy, leaving a warm cinnamon glow down the gullet. abv: 40% Price: $31

89 Stroh Jagertee Liqueur (Austria; Niche Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). This mus-

cular, somewhat medicinal amber liqueur is made from overproof rum mixed with black tea, herbs and spices. The warming orange-peel, ginger, vanilla, and allspice flavors would work well as a digestif, or rounding out a punch. abv: 40% Price: $33/1 L

89 The Bitter Truth Pimento Dram (Germany; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York,

NY). This ruddy liqueur has a pronounced clove and allspice fragrance, and a sweet flavor with lots of peppy baking spice on the finish. Drying, tannic feel. Use for tiki drinks and other cocktails when spice is desired. abv: 22% Price: $34

89 The King’s Ginger (Holland; Anchor Dis-tilling Company, San Francisco, CA).

“Specifically formulated by Berry Bros. in 1903 for King Edward VII,” this golden elixir has a citrusy aroma and a honey note that zings into a big gingery finish. A ver-satile cocktail mixer.abv: 41% Price: $40

88 AGWA de Bolivia (Amsterdam; BABCO Imports, Manhasset, NY). Yes, this pale

neon-green liqueur is distilled from Bolivian coca leaves. But sorry, thrill seekers, the “negative narcotic compounds” are removed before the distillate is blend-ed with 36 other herbs. The end result is a faint anise and grassy scent, and light flavors of anise, ginger, kiwi fruit and lychee, with a soft lemongrass and white-pep-per spiciness. Consider subbing for green Chartreuse in cocktails. abv: 30% Price: $32

87 Pages Verveine de Velay Green (France; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francis-

co, CA). This intensely herbal, emerald-green liqueur is made with a blend of 32 botanicals, but a strong whiff of anise dominates the aroma and flavor. Although small doses may add a fresh herbal complexity to cocktails,

caution is advised for straight-up sipping: this green giant weighs in at a whopping 110 proof. abv: 55% Price: $58

86 Calisaya (USA; Elixir, Eugene, OR). This sunny gold spirit is honey-sweet, with a finish

reminiscent of Indian spices. Consider serving as an ex-otic touch alongside a honeyed dessert like baklava. abv: 35% Price: $46

84 The Old Liquor Store Ginger Liqueur (Spain; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits,

White Plains, NY). This sweet amber liqueur has an aroma and flavor reminiscent of a light root beer, al-though it also has an offputting plastic-like undertone. Flavor fades quickly. abv: 24% Price: $24

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BLONDE ALES

91 Brewery Bockor Omer Traditional Blond Ale (Belgian-style Blonde Ale; Brewery

Bockor, Belgium). Pours a hazy golden color with a white head that boasts superb longevity and leaves beautiful lacing behind. The aromas are fresh and clean, with some attractive herbal accents that spice up the citrus, banana, yellow apple and sourdough bread core. The mouthfeel is dry yet full, with the brisk car-bonation assisting in balancing out the sweet fruit fla-vors and weight of the high alcohol. Hints of clove and white pepper unfold on the slightly bitter finish. Arti-sanal Imports.abv: 8% Price: $10/750 ml

89 Blue Moon Vintage Blonde Ale Reserve Collection 2011 (American Blonde Ale;

Blue Moon Brewing Company, CO). For full re-view see page 11.abv: 8.5% Price: $10/750 ml

88 Widmer Brothers Citra Blonde Summer Brew (American Blonde Ale; Widmer

Brothers Brewing Company, OR). A clear gold color in the glass with an attractive and fruit-forward bouquet, this summer brew is an easy-drinking selec-tion that’s sure to satisfy. Ripe tropical-fruit aromas min-gle with notes of yeasty spice, sweet grass and orange rind. The hop flavors keep things interesting on the pal-ate, imparting a pleasant bitterness to the citrus, mango and pineapple flavors, and which carries through to the clean and refreshing finish. abv: 4.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

86 Metolius River Ales Yellow Sally Blonde Ale (American Blonde Ale; World Brews,

NY). Light yellow in color, with a small head that dissi-pates quickly. Delicate notes of citrus, green banana and

grain unfold on the nose and mouth. It’s smooth and approachable, with a medium-weight body and moder-ate carbonation. The finish is clean, with a slightly bitter edge and a light dusting of sweet spice. abv: 6.2% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

OTHER ALES

94 Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizenbock (Weizenbock; Brauerei Weihenstephan,

Germany). Vitus, made from a resurrected recipe that is now being brewed year round, is a full-bodied and in-tensely flavored weizenbock that offers layer upon lay-er of aromas and flavors. A cloudy golden color in the glass, it starts off with an incredible head that lingers and leaves gorgeous lacing behind with each sip. Scents of banana, green tropical fruit, lemon and clove fill the bouquet and continue on to the palate alongside addi-tional flavors of sweet spice, vanilla bean, bread dough and pear flesh. Balanced and harmonious, with a long and spicy finish. Total Beverage Solution.

abv: 7.7% Price: $4/500 ml

87 Karl Strauss Windansea Wheat (Hefe-weizen; Karl Strauss Brewing Company,

CA). Easy-pleasing and accessible, this is a good session selection that goes down smooth and would pair easily with most foods. Typical wheat beer aromas of clove, pepper, banana and bready yeast appear on the nose, but only with medium intensity. Lemon and wheat fla-vors dominate the medium-weight mouth. The crisp carbonation and slightly creamy mouthfeel work to-gether in harmony, resulting in a clean and refreshing finish. abv: 5.1% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

87 R.J. King Wingwalker Belgian White (Wit-bier; R.J. King Wingwalker Brewing Com-

pany, NY). This is a straightforward yet enjoyable se-

lection that’s quite sessionable. Light aromas and flavors of fresh lemon supremes, banana, yeast and sweet spice unfold on the nose and mouth. The mouthfeel boasts a somewhat creamy texture that’s lifted by vibrant and cleansing carbonation. Clean and brief on the finish, this isn’t the most complex brew but it’s balanced and refreshing. abv: 5.5% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack

86 Four in Hand River Card Wheat Beer (American Pale Wheat Ale; World Brews,

NY). Here’s an approachable and enjoyable session beer that’s easy to like. It might not be the most nuanced or complicated sip, but it’s balanced and refreshing with bright notes of lemon, fresh wheat, dried grass and a touch of peppery spice. Medium bodied, with good car-bonation and a slightly bitter and spicy finish. Best Buy.abv: 4.5% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack

85 Hopper Whitman Summer Brew Wheat Ale (American Pale Wheat Ale; World

Brews, NY). Brisk and refreshing, this summer ale is uncomplicated and to the point, with clean aromas and flavors of lemon slices, plantain, green melon and raw wheat. Medium bodied, with assertive carbonation and a short but slightly sweet close. abv: 5.1% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

October is one of those funny months, when you can still remember what sum-mer was like but suggestions of what’s

to come in the days ahead keep you grounded in fall reality. The leaves start to change in the Northeast, and people try to enjoy the remain-ing warm days before long-sleeved shirts and sweaters come out of hibernation. It’s the per-fect time to enjoy a blonde ale.

Blonde ales are an interesting category, with a bit of variation between international and do-mestic selections. They are all typically crisp and dry, with a low to medium noble-hop pres-ence, although American offerings generally trend toward the medium side of the spectrum more than traditional Belgian examples. While they are clean and refreshing, there tends to be

a perception of fruity esters and sweet malt fla-vors to give them some depth and complexity.

Alcohol can also vary depending on the producer and their country of origin. Overall, blonde ales can be anywhere in the 4–8% abv range, with the traditional Belgian-style brews boasting higher abvs than most American counterparts. On the lower-alcohol end of the spectrum, blonde ales can even exhibit lager-like characteristics thanks to their approach-able nature and balanced, easy-drinking palate.

If blondes aren’t your thing, we have some other golden-brew reviews for you to enjoy: American wheat beers and a stellar weizenbock from Weihenstephan, widely regarded as the world’s oldest brewery.

Prost! —LauReN Buzzeo

BEER

THE GOLD (OR BLONDE) STANDARD

BUYING GUIDE - Wine Enthusiast · 2017-12-24 · abv: 13.5% Price: $40 90 . Adega Mayor 2010...

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