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THE UK BEAUTY INDUSTRY 2010 TRENDSREpoRT BY LoRALCoNTENTSTHE UK BEAUTY mARKET Foreword Executive summary BEAUTY SALES TRENDS IN THE UK Cosmetics and Fragrance Skincare Haircare 1 2
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FoREwoRDIn April this year, Loral published the first UK Beauty Barometer report, providing factual and empirical evidence of the impact the current economic climate was having on consumer shopping habits in the UK beauty industry. Drawing on this research, the following document outlines the key trends Loral anticipates will drive the UK beauty industry in 2010. The trends are based on the latest market research, sales information and consumer behavioural analysis. The report splits the trends according to the following categories: cosmetics and fragrance, skin care, and haircare and styling.
women will continue to use cosmetics to cheer themselves up and to help them face the pressures of prolonged economic uncertainty In April 2009, research by Loral discovered that a Foundation Factor had replaced the Lipstick Index as a new economic indicator. New research indicates that sales of foundation will continue to remain strong in 2010 at present, they are outpacing lipstick and lipgloss sales by 13 percent (Source: AC Nielsen, October 2009) The notion of escapism will drive consumer purchasing habits in 2010, as consumers look at ways to escape the pressure of rational consumption, by embracing personal creativity and experimentation. In 2009, Loral found that as the recession took hold, women were four times more likely to choose natural looking make-up than they were to wear brighter colours. However, latest research confirms that bolder colours are beginning to replace the nudes, as consumers drive a backlash against recession The market for false lashes and false lash effect mascaras is also growing rapidly, as consumers experiment with their appearance and embrace a bolder, more dramatic look Conscious of their budgets, consumers are choosing trusted, established brands which represent value for money and which offer accountability in terms of product claims Faced with financial pressure, discerning consumers will continue to shop around for the best products and therapies and are increasingly seeking specialist, pre-purchase advice to ensure they buy products that best meet their needs Key innovations in beauty in 2010 and beyond will come from advancements in genomics (the study of genes in the skin), proteomics (the study of proteins in the skin) and stem cell research and their ability to provide highly-tailored products which best respond to individuals skin age to slow the ageing process Cost-conscious consumers will look for products which offer integrated application tools to ensure maximum effectiveness Strong demand in the womens market for lightened hair will continue to drive the market for hair colourants both in the salon and at home
CoSmETICS AND FRAGRANCE
Foundation factor In April 2009, research by Loral discovered that a Foundation Factor had replaced the Lipstick Index as a new economic indicator. The popularity of foundation soared across all sectors and age groups and was considered to be the one must-have product that women wanted*. Latest research by Loral confirms that the market for foundation has since grown six times faster than the overall cosmetics market sales of foundation are now outpacing lipstick and lipgloss sales by 13 percent in the mass market**.(*Source: Internet MR, poll of 1000 women in Dec 08 & Feb 09 Asked which one product women could not live without, 26 percent selected foundation (lipstick 25 percent). **Source: AC Nielsen, 52 weeks ending October 2009)
According to leading psychotherapist Lucy Beresford, this trend is set to continue in 2010 as women opt for foundation that maintains a flawless complexion and hides the effects of stress and money worries on the skin. However, as consumer confidence begins to improve, Loral anticipates growing demand for foundations that provide a more luminous look. In February 2010, Loral paris will launch Matte Morphose its first foundation formulated with mati-Crystal technology, which unlike mattifying powders, allows light to pass through it, resulting in luminous looking skin that controls shine in all the right areas. At the end of 2009. maybelline New York launched Dream Cream foundation for women prone to dry skin and for whom a mattifying finish is not an option. offering 100% baby-smooth perfection, 14 hour hydration and a dewy finish, Dream Cream promises to encapsulate Spring/Summer catwalk trends for make-up in 2010.
In times of stress, anxiety often manifests itself on the skin, and so aflawless complexion can boost a womans confidence, making her feel less vulnerable and more in control. This trend became very evident at the start of the economic downturn and is set to continue in 2010 because women are still seeking a groomed, refined look.Lucy Beresford, leading Pyschotherapist
CoSmETICS AND FRAGRANCEPersonal creativity and false lashes According to a study by wGSN, (www.wgsn.com) personal creativity will return to the top of the agenda in 2010 as women experiment with their style and appearance, with a focus on self-expression. The market for false eyelashes is one such market which continues to grow; at shu uemura sales of false eyelashes (prices start from 12) represent more than 30 percent of the brands business in Selfridges and is growing at 60 percent like-for-like.
False lashes are a fun and easy way to experiment with your look,without breaking the bank. Our lashes come in a variety of styles, suitable for every occasion, and are popular with women and girls alike! Our in-store make-up artists also offer complimentary lash applications, making them simple to use and perfect for a quick pre-party fix.Amandine Ohayon, General Manager shu uemura, Kiehls and Biotherm
Growing demand for more dramatic looking eyes is also driving the market for false lash effect mascaras and mascaras offering dramatic styling. Sales of Yves Saint Laurents False Lash Effect Volumizing mascara are up seven percent (year to date), while Lancmes Hypnse mascaras have experienced a 27 percent sales growth year on year (Source: LOral sales data, Epos YTD week 50 2009). In 2010 maybelline New York will launch Falsies mascara as an extension of the UKs number 1 selling Volum Express range offering the mass market instant false lash glam in a tube. Based on studies by Loral Research on the mechanisms that determine eyelash growth cycles, Loral paris introduced Renewal Lash Serum mascara in 2009. Capitalising on the anti-hairloss technology developed by Lorals haircare divisions, researchers established that by nourishing the lashes, they could prevent lash loss during the telogen phase (the point at which hair/lashes are shed) and provide optimal conditions for lashes to re-enter the anagen, or growth phase. The result is the creation of a thicker fringe of lashes. The lash serum now sells one unit every minute, confirming that consumers want quality items that will deliver on their promise by drawing on proven scientific research.
CoSmETICS AND FRAGRANCE
For the past twenty years, LOral has been working towardsunderstanding how hair and skin work. Our most recent work focused on comparing the hair fibres on the head with those that form the eyelashes. We were able to establish that scalp hairs and eyelashes are composed of the same proteins, which meant that the technologies that we had developed for hair are transferable to eyelashes.Julie McManus, LOrals Scientific Director in the UK and Ireland
Boldness is back In early 2009 Loral also found that as the recession took hold, women were tending to opt for more natural looking make-up (Source: Internet MR, poll of 1000 women in Dec 08 & Feb 09 over athird (41%) of women opted for a pared-down, natural look as a direct result of the economic climate, while one in eight (12%) experimented with brighter colours). However, as economic difficulty became certain and
consumer confidence began to plateau, Loral has observed a resurgence in the demand for more dramatic looks and darker shades. Dark lipsticks are rising in popularity and demand for deeper, more dramatic shades are replacing the discreet colours and neutral shades of early 2009. Since it was launched in october 2009, Rouge dArmani has fast become one of the brands top sellers. Sales of Lancmes LAbsolu Rouge lipstick have also increased 17 percent over the last year. The Fatal Red shade of maybelline New Yorks Color Sensational lipstick is the most popular shade in the range, accounting for 12 percent of sales, despite only being launched in August 2009 (Source: LOral sales data).
In the run up to Christmas women want to enjoy the excitement of theseason with a dramatic assertion of their femininity. By accentuating the feminine features of eyes and lips in bold colours, false eyelashes and dramatic mascaras, the caution evident during the recession is being trumped by escapism, playfulness and freedom of expression.Lucy Beresford, leading Pyschotherapist
CoSmETICS AND FRAGRANCEIntegrated application tools Loral is working on a number of revolutionary products which incorporate technology-based application tools and expects the market for cosmetic technology to grow quickly in 2010, as more products are introduced both in the mass and luxury markets. In 2009 Lancme introduced its first vibrating mascara scillation which pulsates up to 7,000 times per minute to ensure that lashes are coated through 360, highlighting consumers interest in innovative products. maybelline New York is renowned for offering innovative mascara technology and in 2009 launched its first vibrating mascara, Pulse Perfection. The