academy of art university founded in san francisco 1929

january 2017 | i ssue 11

Making Connections | by Gladys Perint Palmer

INDIAN WEDDINGS You’ve been invited to an Indian wedding?

It’s a three day festivity?

Just go!

You haven’t been invited to an Indian wedding?

Go to India in January, the month

of weddings. Stay at a good hotel and observe. All you have to do is settle into an armchair in the lobby and order a drink.

The bride, the groom, their families and the guests saunter into the lobby and linger for a long time. They are in no hurry; this is the third day.

The women are gorgeous. They are dressed in exquisite clothes, made out of traditional Indian silk fabrics, in brilliant colors, turned into modern evening dresses. (Why hasn’t this fashion reached Paris?)

The men are surprisingly casual, in open-necked shirts, with or without jackets.

Oh, but the jewels! This is the time when a bride acquires serious jewelry. The jewelry shops are filled with fathers, mothers, sisters, aunties – all advising the bride.

Once the guests move into the hotel ballroom, well, the drums, the shouts, the music, the noise, it’s all ear-splitting. I know; once I was seven stories above a wedding venue - sleep was not an option.

Some Indian weddings take place outdoors.

On a recent trip, we stayed at a Bangalore hotel where our balcony overlooked beautiful gardens. For many days we noticed agile lads climbing trees to create some surprise. On the wedding day, the surprise turned out to be fireworks and twinkling lights among the branches.

We went down to the garden and peered from behind a hedge. “Why don’t you join the wedding?” someone asked us. “We haven’t been invited.” “Who’s going to stop you?”

From our spying spot, we observed the ceremony and the guests who lined up to wish the young couple well. I couldn’t help notice that many guests were more focused on the buffet tables.

Isn’t it true all over the world that the way to a man’s heart is through the stomach; and, that diamonds are a girl’s best friend.

illustrations by gladys perint palmer.

P.S. – OH YES! THE JEWELS AT AN INDIAN WEDDING! | by Varsha Shelar

Oh yes! The jewels at an Indian wedding! Contrary to the belief… all that glitters at an Indian wedding is gold, silver, platinum, diamonds and so much more.

Across India’s length and breadth, spanning diverse communities, the most common and essential piece of jewelry worn by the bride is the Mangalsutra, known as Thaali or Thirumangalyam in the south. This piece is a token of dignity and love, given to a bride by her groom.

In Northern India, the bride, the young maidens, and not so young matrons, will all be decked from head to toe with chokers, necklaces, nose rings, bangles and Payals or anklets, as well as Polki or Kundan - jewelry made of uncut diamonds. They will also be adorned with Maang Tikka, worn at

the center parting of the hair with a pendant falling over the forehead. In Maharashtra, this is replaced by the Mundavlya; a unique unisex ornament, made of pearl strings, worn by both the bride and bridegroom.

In Southern India, traditional temple jewelry is still a favorite. The Kasu Mala necklace is made of gold coins strung together, each bearing embossed images of Goddess Lakshmi. The snake-like hair braid, called Choti or Jada, is decorated with ornate jewelry. And for Southern Indians, pure diamonds are the bride’s best friend; she cannot leave the maternal home without sizable diamond studs, and her tiny shapely waist accentuated by a gold waistband with intricate detailing.

All of the jewelry made of uncut diamonds, emeralds and rubies truly add to the dazzle! Of course, ladies from the bride’s family will be sizing up the jewelry worn by the groom’s family and vice versa. The tidbits about who wore the ‘best jewelry’ will be discussed until the next wedding….bridegroom

INDIAN WEDDINGS

P.S. – OH YES! THE JEWELS AT AN INDIAN WEDDING!

LET’S TALK ART, INDIA / a publication of academy of art university / page 2 january 2017 | i ssue 11

STUDENT PERSPECTIVE | by Manpreet RajpalManpreet is a Jewelry and Metal Arts student; she also serves as vice president of the Indian Student As-sociation, and as the programs chair with the Jewelry and Metal Arts student club, JEM.

The legacy and tradition of Indian jewelry is invaluable and I salute it. For the people of India, it is one of the oldest industries, and, the jewelry itself symbolizes an emotional tie to the culture and traditions.

In my personal experience, creating jewelry, like art, is a path to self-knowledge. I often aim to create pieces that translate concepts and help externalize thoughts, emotions and experience. Art has the power to transform, as does jewelry.

At first, my interest in jewelry making started as a hobby; eventually I was consumed. On a whim, I participated in a national level jewelry design

contest. My entry made it to the top 100 amongst 14,000 entries - this gave me the confidence to pursue a career in jewelry making.

I decided to study in the United States, believing the experience would help me create jewelry with a contemporary twist. I believed that an education at Academy of Art University would give me the required education, skill, and exposure. Here, I’ve found incredible support and encouragement from my teachers. The course of my education has exposed me to metalsmithing and mixed media techniques with an opportunity to evolve and pursue my personal feelings and concepts.

After my graduation in 2018, I want to launch my brand online and participate in the Lakme India Fashion Week; a bi-annual fashion event that has been conceived and created with a vision to,

“Redefine the future of fashion and integrate India into the global fashion world.”

Q: Aarti, can you give us a bit of an introduction about your life in India?

A: I was raised in Mumbai, which is known as ‘the city of dreams’. I’ve wanted to be a part of the fashion industry, ever since I was a kid. I decided to make fashion my

profession and entered Sophia Polytechnic, Mumbai for my undergraduate degree in Fashion Design. I

participating in a social and fundraising campaign to benefit Shloka Missionaries, an organization helping underprivileged kids in rural India.

Q: Can you tell us about the Indian Student Association?

A: The Indian Student Association (ISA) is a community of Indian students at the Academy of Art University. The Association aims to be the face of the Indian student community and acts as a bridge between all Indian students – those who were raised in India and those who were raised elsewhere. We are connected through our heritage.

Q: Please tell us about your role as president of the Indian Student Association.

A: As president, it’s my responsibility to help the students who are away from India feel connected here. We celebrate most of the Indian festivals

STUDENT SPOTLIGHT | Karen London interviews Aarti Utwani, president of the Indian Student Association.

photo by deenesh sharma.

FIVE FACTS | Charlene ModenaDirector, School of Jewelry and Metal Arts

1. Academy of Art University’s School of Jewelry and Metal Arts embraces learning as a cross-cultural discipline.

2. The search for a personal, visual language is presented to the students as a world of opportunities.

While the focus is on contemporary outcomes, students use mixed media, traditional, and ‘digital’ techniques. Here, we offer a forum for students to learn the principles of creating and critical thinking, craft and conceptual innovation. Our students graduate with a highly skilled portfolio, with a confidence and knowledge that allow them to thrive and prosper in today’s world.

3. Alumni entrepreneurs with their own brands include: Ashley Lagasse and Zoe Cope (Birds n Bones), Anna Sheffield, Chrystal Sunshine, Tura Sugden, Elliot Gaskin, Candy Chu, Kelsey Simon, Deanna Wardley, Sydney Brown, Yucen Wavy Tang, Orly Ruaimi, and Dale Beevers.

4. I received my MA in Sculpture from San Francisco State University with an emphasis in Metal Arts, and my MFA in Sculpture Iron from Academy of Art University. I have participated in numerous group and solo exhibitions throughout the world, and have the honor and privilege of being included in the World’s Who’s Who of Women, and Foremost Women of the 20th Century.

5. Please visit the School of Jewelry and Metal Arts’ blog for the latest on alumni, events, featured collaborations, special guests and related news: http://blogs.academyart.edu/content/jem/jem.html To learn more about Charlene Modena and the School of Jewelry and Metal Arts, visit here: http://www.academyart.edu/academics/jewelry-metal-arts

felt it wasn’t enough and wanted to reach beyond and learn more. Now, I am at Academy of Art University, working towards my MFA in Fashion Merchandising.

Q: What do you hope to do when you graduate?

A: I graduate this semester (Spring 2017). I am currently interning with Asha Market as a Stylist. Asha Market is an e-commerce website for the US market. It is redefining the way Indian fashion is sized and sold, making modern Indian fashion accessible and affordable without compromising quality. I plan to transition into a full-time position with the company after I graduate.

Q: What are you involved in outside of Academy of Art University?

A: I am a freelance make-up artist, and I work towards steadily gaining recognition as a fashion ‘influencer’ through social media. I am also involved in a lot of volunteer and social work. Currently I am

jewelry by manpreet r ajpal. photos by demetrius philp.

Continued on page 3

LET’S TALK ART, INDIA / a publication of academy of art university / page 3 january 2017 | i ssue 11

INSIGHTS | from an Alumni CoordinatorSindhu Balasetti is an Academy of Art University Alumna who resides in Hyderabad, India and represents the University there. She recalls her experiences as a student and provides some insights for prospective and returning students.

My advice for the new students who are just about to start school:

1. Get connected. Making new friends with other students is essential. We encourage joining the

RECENT TRIUMPHS…BRAVO!Jizhi Li: Dazzling the Jewelry Industry / by Academy of Art University News & Event

Since graduating with her MFA from the School of Jewelry and Metal Arts, Jizhi ‘Gigi’ Li’s design talent has garnered her a number of awards and exciting opportunities to display her wearable jewelry sculptural objects at shows

across the country. We are pleased to congratulate her on her most recent: a Fine Art Award in issue 45 of Creative Quarterly, one of the top art and design publications in the world.

The collection of pieces Li created for her thesis, Perfectly Imperfect, explores her philosophy on beauty and body image. Body ornamentation is often used to distract attention away from the imperfections and flaws in our bodies, and her artistic intention is to frame parts of the body to redecorate their imperfection. Li’s dramatic leg adornment is the piece that earned her a Fine Art Award in Creative Quarterly.

“The piece is for people with flaws or disabilities,” says Li about the sculptural adornment she

created from tightly arranged, overlapping wires embellished with cloisonné. “It’s very sharp, looks a bit dangerous, and restricts leg movement.” The design replicates what it feels like to have a disability, something she knows firsthand—one of her legs was temporary paralyzed for several years

jewelry by jizhi li. photos courtesy of academy of art university.

to engage in our cultural traditions; we also host events like Bollywood movie nights, and other social gatherings. This wouldn’t be possible without my colleagues Manpreet Rajpal (vice president and student in the School of Jewelry and Metal Arts) and Meeneshwer Madhu (executive member and student in the School of Fashion). We make sure to add interesting events every year and to encourage our fellow Indian students to strike a balance between school, social life, and the culture that

connects us.

Q: How many members does the Indian Student Association have?

A: ISA is an ever-growing community. We are connected through our Facebook page, ISA ARTU https://www.facebook.com/groups/ARTUISA/ Even after a student graduates from Academy of Art University, they are still a part of the ISA community and continue to receive invitations to the events that we host. Today, we have 520 members in our club.

Student Spotlight continued from page 2

Indian Student Association, as well as other clubs with shared interests. These connections will make life easier on many levels.

We have an official Facebook page for Academy of Art University’s Indian students: https://www.facebook.com/AcademyofArtUniversityIndia/ and the Indian Student Association page is here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ARTUISA/

2. Setting up a bank account is also very important. It is necessary to have an account for transactions throughout the year.

3. Having a route map handy, especially as you walk through downtown San Francisco is very helpful – whether it is a printout, guide map, or smart phone app. Students can also use Academy of Art University’s bus system and access the schedule online.

For a continuing student: The first and the

foremost thing to do is to continue good habits, or to improve time management (and avoid procrastination). Also, be sure to sign up for special workshops; they are great for motivating additional learning and for the extra practice of developing skills. It is really very important to find a balance between studying, having a social life, and relaxing; setting up priorities helps you to sort tasks and devote time accordingly.

My experience at Academy of Art University for the first time, and related feelings:

It was both a thrilling and exciting feeling to have the opportunity to live in another country. Each day came with a different experience but eventually the new place became my ‘home away from home”. I miss school and still reminisce about my days at Academy of Art University. Living abroad was certainly one of the best experiences of my life!

Q: Which events is ISA planning to host in 2017?

A: Holi, Movie Night, Freshman Welcome and Diwali are in the pipeline. Apart from this we also take part in Academy of Art University club mixers (coming together with other student associations and clubs) every year, and have meetings and gatherings in intervals with our members.

Q: Anything else you would like to share?

A: We appreciate the University’s support of ISA and look forward to our continued growth and their continued support.

due to an illness. “To me, flaws are what makes us special,” she explains. “I want to create art that emphasizes scars and other imperfections, and that helps people with them be more confident.”

Source: http://www.academyart.edu/about-us/news-events/news/2016/october/jizhi-li--dazzling-the-jewelry-industry

LET’S TALK ART, INDIA / a publication of academy of art university / page 4 january 2017 | i ssue 11

1929 Richard S. Stephens, Art Director for Sunset Magazine, founds the Academy of Advertising Art with his wife Clara, with a beginning enrollment of 45 students.

1951 Richard A. Stephens, son of founder Richard S. Stephens, becomes President.

1992 Elisa Stephens, granddaughter of founder Richard S. Stephens, is appointed President.

1929 Clara Stephens, Co-founder, Academy of Advertising Art San Francisco.

Academic Calendar

Winter Intersession 2017: January 9 – January 27

Spring 2017: February 6 – May 27

Fall 2017: September 5 – December 18

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Let’s Talk Art, India

editorialEditor-in-Chief: Edith Mead Barker

Art Director: Mary ScottContributors: Varsha Shelar, Karen London

Editor-at-Large: Gladys Perint Palmer

production:Mateo Tayamen and Mitchell Griffin

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ADDITIONAL DESCRIPTIONS AND TERMINOLOGY OF INDIAN WEDDING JEWELRY | by Varsha Shelar

Bangles or Kadas: Bangles, oh the sweet tinkling sound produced by it! These adorn the wrists and come in a variety of designs made of gold and diamonds. Indeed, more than any other single jewelry form in India, the bangle is crafted from the widest variety of materials. Each region has its own special designs and preference for these.

Nath or nose rings: Nath or nose ring is one of the integral parts of Indian bridal jewelry that symbolizes traditional value; although modern brides may find it uncomfortable the rings add to the beauty of the bride.

Toe ring or Bichiya: The toe ring is usually made of silver and a special ritual is built around wearing the rings during the wedding ceremony. Usually these are gifts from the bride’s mother-in-law and are worn one each on the second toe.

Kamarbandh or waistband: Most popular in Southern Indian wedding finery and dignifies the overall appearance of the Indian bride.

Vaaki / Vanki / Bajubanth or armlet: This is worn on the upper arm and is usually made of gold and is embellished with precious stones.

Payal or Anklets: These are all-time favorites with Indian brides; they are usually made of silver as traditionally only brides with a Royal lineage are allowed to wear gold anklets. wedding guests in a hotel lobby

by gladys perint palmer.