939 Fashion 3rd Lecture

7/29/2019 939 Fashion 3rd Lecture

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TREND:ADEFINITION

A trend is a TRANSITORY DECREASE OVER TIME

Theyare

usually

classified

by

duration

and

penetration,

visualisedascurveswithtimeonthebottomaxisand

consumeradoptionratesontheverticalaxis

Inthiswayitseasytoshowthedifferencebetween

TheSHORTESTTRENDSor FADS

The

LONGEST

TRENDS

or CLASSICS


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Trendsarenotexplicit,astheystillhavetobeidentified

Theyappearacross

different

cultures,

targets,

social

networks,

,

Peoplewhoworkwithtrendsdealwiththetaskofsensingthe

tren ,

captur ng

w at

rea y

matters an

nsert ng

t

w t n

aninterpretativestructure thatwillthenbeappliedtothe

Whatmatters/in

an

interpretative

structure/applied

tostrategicmarketing


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EVOLUTIONOFATREND

Therearethreesta esintheevolutionofatrend

1.FRINGEs agew enan nnova onar sesan e ren es

consumersbegintoparticipate

2.TRENDY

Astage

when

awareness

of

the

trends

grows

because

earlyadoptersjointheinnovatorstoincreasethevisibility

retailerstesttheconcept

3.MAINSTREAMAstagewhenmoreconservativeconsumersjoinin,

visibilitycontinuestoincrease,andcorporationand


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SOMEEXAMPLES

Surfin skateboardin snowboardin allstartedatthefrin eof

thesportsworldamongasmallgroupofenthusiasts.Eachgroup

evolvedan

identifying

style

Whenmorepeoplebecameawareofthesports,thestylesbecame

trendy.Fashionjournalistsandforecastersbegantoidentifythe

styleas

fashion

forward

and

some

large

brands

began

to

test

the

looksinsmallcollections

Someinterestingvariations:urbaninfluenceslikehiphopbecame

directionalfor

the

three.

Graphic

tshirts

and

hoodies

were

easily

assimilatedintomainstreamfashion,butmoreextremestyleslike

pipejeansremainednicheproducts.


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FADS FASHIONS&CLASSICS

FADS havebeendefinedindifferentwa s:

as

involving

fewer

people

or

shorter

duration,

and

more

personal

ano er as onc anges

asoutsidehistoricalcontinuity,eachspringingupindependently,

withno

successor

and

no

forerunner

, ,

andhavinglittlevalueafterthenewnesswearsoff

FASHIONS arethemselvesofshortdurationwhencomparedtolong

termsocialchanges.Fadsarefashionsofevenshorterduration


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CLASSIC:itsast lethatchan esminimall overtime

It

remains

within

the

acceptable

range in

terms

of

a r u eso ere an expen ure n ermso mean

money

Classics

represents

midpoint

compromises

that

deliver

atleastthecoreattributesdesiderabletotheconsumer

Classicsappealtoaspecialkindofpersonalityseeking

toavoid

extremes

in

styling


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HOWDOTRENDSMOVE?

Forecastersseekin tovisualize thewa trendsmovethrou h

culturehaveseveralalternatives:

n n orma oncasca e, rom as on ea ers o o owers

Attachmentofacatchylabel(importanttoatrendspopularity)a

coattaileffect

during

which

the

trend

builds

among

the

most

fashion

forward,andflowwhereitmovesintothemainstream

Tricklingdownfromtheelite,upfromthestreetandacross

consumersegments

Contagionwherethetrendsmovesfrompersontopersonlikethe


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CONTAGION

Thetransmissionoftrendshasbeenlikenedtothes readofavirus

Manufacturersshould

aim

for

sticky

looks

with

flulike

staying

power, ecauseconsumers on wan oo s a qu c y

disappear

(MalcolmGladwell,TheNewYorker)

Principlesforturningordinaryideasintothosewithstickiness

unexpectedness

concreteness

credibility

emotionallyinvolving


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Trendsmustbevisibleto ossibleado tersinordertos read:

BUZZ:

excitement

about

something

new.

Is

created

when

trends

pass roug me ane wor s,mov ng romone orma oano er:

fromnewsmagazinestotalkshows,fromthemorningshowstolate

night

Receivinginformationsonatrendinthiswaygivestheconsumera

VIRAL

MARKETING:

builds

on

the

power

of

word

of

mouth

in

personalnetworksandbuzzinmedianetworks.Theideaistospread

amessagetoawidepopulationbybeginningwithafewkeycarriers


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Viralmarketin ivesconsumersthefeelin thatthe are

discoveringproductsthroughpersonalormedianetworks

rac onerso v ra mar e ng may:

Fieldstreetteamsofyoungpeoplewhovisitclubs,sportingevents,

concertsand

other

hot

spots

in

urban

markets

and

distribute

stickers,posters

Createaneventsuchasununfoldingdramaactedoutonadjacent

billboardsplaced

in

aprim

urban

location

Giveawaynextseasonsdesignstoeditors,stylists,artists,

, , ,

beseen

and

photographed

wearing

the

designs

as

away

to

build

buzz


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TRENDANALYSISANDSYNTHESIS

Peo leonalllikelihood areamemberofast letribebecauseof

wheretheylive,howtheymakealiving,orhowtheychoosetospend

theirleisure

time

Groupsevolveawayofdressingthatsignalsthegroupsidentityand

aestheticcode

Becausethereexistsanalmostinfiniteuniverseofstylevariations,the

infinite

Yetpeoplesstylescanbeclassifiedintogeneralcategories

CONSUMERSEGMENTATION


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FORECASTERTOOLBOX:5.

Analysisandsynthesisarethetwofacesofforecasting:

ANALYSIS:aphenomenonisdissectedtoachieveamorecomplete

understandingof

its

components

SYNTHESIS:acreativereintegrationoftheparts

n as ont atmeans:

Anaccurate

reading

of

the

trend

in

all

its

subtle

aspects

Matchingthetrendwiththeconsumersegmentmostlikelytoadoptit

initially

Matchingthetrendwiththeproductcategory,pricepointandretail

concept mostlikely

to

complement

it

Andthen:theforecasterhypothesizesaboutwhatitwilltaketoenergize


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CONSUMERSEGMENTATION

Once,notlongago,atrendmovedfromafewfashionforwardconsumers

, .

evenexistanymore?

majorityofconsumers

o,nowmoret anever, orecastersan ot er as on n ustrypro ess ona s

mustpay

careful

attention

to

the

definitions

of

market

niches

and

target

audience

Atargetaudiencecanbedefinedasoneormoreconsumersegments,each

withcertain

demographic

characteristics

such

as

age,

gender,

ethnicity

and

income


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DEMOGRAPHICS

Segmentationstrategiesbasedondemographics consumercharacteristics

, ,

effective,becauseconsumerattitudesandbehaviourarenotdriven

primarilyby

demographics

Sometimes aproductcrossesboundariesbyappealingtoconsumersin

widedemographiccategories(teenagers),buttoonlyasmallnumberof

peop eovera t e mo s

Consumerscanbehaveinunexpectedways:veryaffluentconsumers

combineluxurybrandedgoodsfromspecialtystoresandbasicsfrom

discountretailers

Someoftodaysconsumersstillridethetrendwavesoffashionbutothers

aredecidedlyantifashion

This

approach

seems

too

simplistic

for

todays

marketplace


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PSYCOGRAPHICS

Segmentationstrategiesbasedonpsychographics consumerpsychology

,

attitudes,preferencesandbehaviors

consumersculture ashavingmoreimpactthandemographics

econsumer scu turecanoverru e emograp cc ass cat ons: g

incomehouseholds

consider

brand

quality

to

be

more

important

than

do

consumersatlowerincomelevels

Healthfitnessandnutritionconsciousconsumerscomprisearelatively

smallbut

influential

segment

of

consumers

in

all

demographic

categories

Althoughtheymaybeofdifferentagesandcomefromvariousincome


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GEODEMOGRAPHICS

Segmentationstrategiesbasedongeodemographics linkgeographyand

Censusdata

on

age,

income,

ethnicity

and

other

categories

are

smoothed

, ,

Theresultingclustersareuseful forpinpointinglocationsfornewstores

orma s, totargetma ngso cata ogsan torevea ns g tsa out

consumerpreferences

Geodemographicsisusefultoforecastersinpinpointingthemarkets

wherehottrendsbeginandinmappingtheirpotentialdiffusion.Itallowsto

locatediverse

neighbourhoods

where

consumption

patterns

today

may

anticipatethosethatwilldevelopinotherlocalesasthefutureunfolds.


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GENERATIONALCOHORTS

TheysharethesameAGELOCATIONinhistoryandaCOLLECTIVEMINDSET

Groupmembershipis

Involuntary

Finite

rom rt on,a mem ersencountert esameevents,moo san tren s

atsimilar

ages,

giving

each

cohort

adistinct

biography

and

apeer

personality

Individualsinthecohortmayagreewiththevaluesandviewpointsoftheir

generation,or

spend

alifetime

battling

against

it


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1.THEGRAYGENERATION

Thosebornbetween1901and1924:theylivedthroughtheGreat

, .

This

generation

has

declined

to

5

millions

Consumptionismostlylimitedtodailymaintenanceandhealthcare

Thoseborn

between

1925

and

1945:

they

are

also

called

the

silent

generation,althoughtheyarebeginningtotalk

Thisgenerationcountsfor45millions

Theyareusuallyneglectedbydesigners,retailers,advertisingandmedia


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Infactthe6075yearoldgroup isthesecondfastest

growingage

segment:

in

2010

one

third

of

the

population isover50

yearsyounger,

but

has

been

marketed,

so

far,

as

if

they

wereolder

Maturepeoplehavemoneytospend andenjoynew

muchasanyone

ey ressup moreo en anyoungerpeop e


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Theyprefertoshopforapparelandaccessoriesby

catalogue,viatheInternetoratdepartmentstores

,

Theyarediffident towardsproductscomingfrom

a roa

Theywantclothesthatgivethem physical,psychological

andsocialcomfort

conservativevalue function comfort andquality

orientedconsumer


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.

TheagegroupcausedbytheincreaseinthebirthrateafterWWIIis

still

the

largest

generation

and

the

primary

spending

group

in

the

Theyshopawidevarietyofretailvenuesfromluxuryspecialty

.

onclothing

per

capita

than

any

other

age

group

sensibility


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Theyhavedistinctandfirmideas aboutwhattheywant

, ,

Theywant

the

same

fashion

as

young

people with

appropriate

g

Theywerethefirsttvgeneration

Theycount

for

75

million

boomers

oneeveryeightseconds


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.

AlsocalledtheBabyBusters,theyarebornbetween1965and1979

Theyareintheir30sandearly40s

Theyare

career

oriented,

family

oriented or

both,

but

they

were

thefirsttoexperiencetheriskofbeingchildrenofdivorce

Theirspendingpatternsreflecttheseinterests,withmorespending

onhousing,homegoods,transportation,education


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Theyarethefirstcomputergeneration

,

aboutmediamanipulation

boomers)

targetinthefragmentationoftheInternet


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.

Thisisfashionmarketingsmostsoughtafterconsumergroup:they

are

also

called

the

baby

boomlet,

millennium

generation

or

the

Net

Theirbirthratebeganin1980andgoesuntil1995

Theyare

aracially

diverse

group,

with

aglobal

sports,

computer

andentertainmentorientationthataffectstheirbuyingdecision

Ads,tvshows,movies,websitesandmagazinesarecreated

specificallyforthismarket

THISISTHEGENERATIONTHATISRETHINKINGEVERYTHINGAND

TAKINGTHEFASHIONINDUSTRYWITHTHEM


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Theyare

fashion

hungry and

have

apassion

for

buying

clothes,

but

usuallycannotaffordtospendasmuchasbabyboomers

Theytendtoconcentratemoreoncareer thanfamily

ey en opre er c y c an sma ou ques,

butalsothebig,internationalflagshipstores

eyrepresen emos s gn can po ar sa ono o ay s

demography:on

one

side

we

have

the

baby

boomers,

on

the

other

thebabyboomlet

Attentivetocyberspace,fickleintheirtastesandexpectingthe

best,

this

group

favors

brands

and

retailers

with

strong

ecological

orhumanitarianrecords


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:

.

Demographersarentpreciseinplacingdividinglinesbetween

generations,

but

GEN

Y

probably

ended

in

2000

and

a

new

, ,

Identifyinggenerationsinothercultureshelpsforecastersandother

opportunities

spendingpowerwillbeinthehandsoftheonlychildgeneration:

profiled

as

urban,

educated,

ranging

from

late

teens

to

early

t irties,wit rising isposa eincomes

TheChinesewhoarepartofthisgenerationgrewupduringboom

times,embracefashionandenjoyspendingmoneyonthemselves


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LIFESTYLESEGMENTS

Thepsychographicapproachwasbornintheearly1970s:societywasbeing

familiesandcareers,andbywomenwhobeganchoosingcareersover

traditional

homemaker

roles

Lifestyleresearchwasanattempttounderstandthechangingsocialorder,

byanalysing

INTERESTS

OPINIONS

Howdoconsumersspendtheirtime?Whatinterestsareimportanttothem?

Howdo

they

view

themselves?

What

opinions

do

they

hold

about

the

world

aroundthem?


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Migrationphenomenon:intheUnitedStatesyouhavemorethan

700.000

legal

immigrants

per

year

Black,Hispanic,AsianandNativeAmericanwillgrowasfastasthe

whitemajority

Peopleof

different

cultural

backgrounds

look

for

different

things

in

afashionpurchase

Theyhavevariousculturalandreligiousperceptionsand

partialitiesregardingstyling,colour,pattern,fabrics,fit&value

Retailers,manufacturersandtrendsetterswillhavetocatertothese

variousmarketsegments


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.

Morethan75%ofthefemalepopulationaged20to60are

employed.

More

than

22

million

women

live

alone

or

head

single

Theymakemorepurchasingdecisions

Dividingtheir

days

between

family

and

career,

TIME becomes

acriticalissue

Theytendtoshoplessandfavorconvenient,onestopshopping

,

,

the80s

,

and

home

dcor

shows

on

tv

and

are

interested

equally

in

high

end

fashionandinteriordesign


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Thereisanincreasingnumberofpeoplewearinglargersizes:asthe

population

ages,

people

are

getting

heavier

(approx

68%

of

Fashiondesignersarecreatingdedicatedcollections,whotrytobe

,

Asaresult,retailstoresaredevotingmoresquarefootagetolarge

,

windowsmannequin,fromsize32to38(from40to44inEU)

ver s ng

s

e ca ngmore

a en on

o

s

arge

Celebritiesarenotafraidtoshowthemselveseveniftheyarecurvy


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Manypeopletrytoinsulatethemselvesfromthefearsofterrorism,

war

and

crime

by

staying

home

as

much

as

possible

TheyshoplessorshopbycatalogorontheInternet

,

waysof

consumption

,

andthefamily


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Babyboomerwomenwho

haventlosttheirhippie

,womantowomanbrand

a eals

Showinterestinproductsthat

relatetomindbodyspirit

tolife

They

drive

quirky

automobiles


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Theyarestayathomedadswhoseekbalanceinworkandlife

Spendlotsoftimeonline

Share

in

their

kidsmusical

tastes


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Coupleswholookforstatusandbraggingrightswithinthegreen

Shopfororganicfoodsandearthfriendlyproducts

ListentoNationalPublicRadio

Drivehybridcars


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Similarityinpatternsofconsumerbehaviourcanbetracedtothe

Consumptionprioritiesalterdependingonthestageoflifeand

the

accompanying

tasks

and

challenges

e es agesapproac represen consump ono eren

productsandthepursuitofdifferentkindsofexperience:


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Childrenbetween6and11years oldshowanever

increasingdemand forthelatestfashionbrands,trainers,

,

Theconsumptionofclothingandthewearingof

as on are mportantmar ers o ent tyasc ren

growolder

Influencesfrompopularculture,especiallypopstars

andfootballers,functionasanimportantpointofreference

forchildren

Awarenessofwhatiscoolandwhat


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Accessto

the

latest

fashions

which

carriedhighstatuslabelsandlogos

cou es gn cant nrespecto

childrensexperienceofsocial

Inclusionor

exclusion

Evidenceofgrowth inthe

Childrenswearmarkethasbeen

steady ratherthanexceptionalin

recentyears

Growthismoreevidentatthetop,

designerlabelend,thoughthis

Marketoverall,andatthevalueend

ofthemarket


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a a rom ec ren ave emons ra e

theirclear

sense

of

suitability

and

acceptability

Oftenexpressedintermsofnot wishingtolooksilly,

awfuloroutofplace,childrenconstructsensesof

normalityand

abnormality

which

can

govern

dress

codesaswellasoverallpresentationofself/identity

In articularchildrenex ressedconcernaboutwhattheir

friends

would

think of

the

clothes

they

chose

or

wererequiredtowear

Forsomethisemphasisedtheneedtofitin,forfearofbeingwrongly

judgedbytheirpeers


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Jessica(ten

years

old):

Peopleseewhatyoulooklike

before

they

realise

what

you

are

like.Sotheyjudgeyou

beforetheyreallyfindoutyourpersonality.

yourpersonality

in

what

you

are

wearing


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Theadultification

of

childrens

clothing

Re erstot eways nw c c ren sc ot ng was

perceivedbothbyparentsandtheindustrytoincreasingly

replicateadults

clothing in

some

areas

Particularanxietycentredonthelinkageofthiswiththe

sexualisationof irlsclothin toincludeoverl adultst les,

particularlythosewhichexposealotofflesh

concerninggoodandbadtaste butnosetpoliciesor

regulationexistedaboveandbeyondthatwhichmaybe


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Womenarethemostpowerfultarget forfashion:they

accept andtheydefinenewtrends

Todaythepredominantstyle is

Casual

Hy r

Mixing hautecouture

with

fast

fashion

Expressingfemininity,butneverinaprovocativeway

Influencescomefromtvshows andgroupofpeers,

virtualor

real,

magazines,

blogthat

function

as

an

importantpointofreferenceandinspiration


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pare me oo s cu o e ne ecause epen sonpersona

inclinations.Office is

the

main

ground

to

express

your

own

style

(GraziaSurvey,2009)

57% ofwomengoforacasual,detailedlook

20% choosedenim

9womenon10donotrenouncetohighheels

Nothin isreall casual:womenadmittosta hoursinfrontofthe

mirror(63%)andasignificant23%admitstoseeofficecorridorsasa

catwalk

Alow2%prefersbeingcomfortable,andchoosetrainersand

tracksuit


44/46

Being

la

mode

means

develop

your

own

style,

studying

seasonstrends(65%)

Thebestdressistheonethatmakesyoufeelsecureand

Comfortableduring

an

interview

(49%) or

anight

out

with

your

love(56%)

Themusthave ofever closetare:

Awhiteblouse(26%)

Jeans(45%)

,

Underwear isbasicandmustmatchwiththerest(43%)


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Menfashionisgoingtroughatoughtime.Thelatestedition

OfPittiUomo(jan2010)markeda9%insales

Tworeasons

first,menareusedto dressinaclassicalway

att eo ce, npart cu ar ,sot ey onot uyas requent y

aswomen.

They

buy

asuit

and

they

use

it

for

years

theresaculturalattitudetowardsmenbeinginterestedinfashion.

Itsnotamachobehaviour

Experimentationis

not

for

everyone

Inspirationcomesmostlyfromwivesandgirlfriends,inthe


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en ono rea y e os op orc o es: mus eaqu c ,

profitableexperience,

with

someone

Instead,theyarereadytospendhoursinspecialtyshops, iftheyare

relatedtotheirpassions

Somethingischanging,butveryslowly.

939 Fashion 3rd Lecture

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Transcript of 939 Fashion 3rd Lecture