700 Lumen LED Bike Light

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http://www.instructables.com/id/700-Lumen-LED-Bike-Light/

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700-Lumen LED Bike Lightby 700lumenLED on August 22, 2009

Table of Contents

intro: 700-Lumen LED Bike Light .................................................................................................

step 1: Building the Enclosure ...................................................................................................

step 2: Attach the LEDs ........................................................................................................

step 3: Wiring the LEDs ........................................................................................................

step 4: Final Enclosure Steps ....................................................................................................

step 5: Building the Power Supply ................................................................................................

step 6: Final Assembly .........................................................................................................

step 7: The Completed System ..................................................................................................

step 8: Specs and Parts List .....................................................................................................

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intro: 700-Lumen LED Bike LightEquivalent light output of a 70-watt halogen bulb but only uses12-watts of power.Beam shots show a building at night 100-ft away illuminated by this LED bike light.

Detailed Specs and Parts List are given at the end of Step 8.


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step 1:Building the EnclosureStep 1: EnclosureA. These are the parts needed for the enclosure and shown before cutting to size: Lexan MR10 plastic, 1/16-inch x 3/4-inch aluminum L-bracket, Hammond enclosureheat sink.

B. Cut parts to size: 3/4-inch section from enclosure, aluminum back bezel, Lexan front bezel, heat sink slices.

step 2:Attach the LEDsStep 2: Attach LEDs and Heat Sinks

A. Trim LED stars to fit inside enclosure.

B. Position stars on back bezel with an extra piece of L-bracket which is same thickness as Hammond enclosure.

C. Rotate center star 180-degrees so the + and - tabs are next to each other on adjoining stars.

D. Glue stars with Arctic Silver thermal adhesive, then clamp until cured (five minutes).

E. Good thermal management is essential for LEDs. Glue heat sink slices to top and back of L-bracket using Arctic Silver thermal adhesive.


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step 3:Wiring the LEDsStep 3: Wire the LEDs and glue on the lens holders

A. Wire stars together (two small red wires) between + and - tabs.

B. Drill another hole in back bezel for incoming power. Add shrink tubing for strain relief on each side of bezel.

C. Drill holes in base of lens holders to route black negative power wire.

D. Glue lens bases to stars, preferably with Loctite 460 superglue.

E. Solder incoming power wires to stars (white + and black -).

step 4:Final Enclosure StepsStep 4: Finish the Enclosure

A. Glue lenses onto lens holders with Loctite 460 superglue (regular superglue will frost the lenses with a white fi lm caused by vapors as it dries). I used a flood lens inthe center and spot lenses on each end.

B. Glue on a washer-nut to bottom of enclosure with JB-Weld epoxy to hold handlebar bracket.

C. Screw on aluminum back bezel and Lexan front bezel after lenses dry.

D. Attach a bracket such as the one pictured from old Vista Light, or any bracket that can fit the 3/4-inch enclosure base. I also used washers so the light can be adjusright and left.


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step 5:Building the Power SupplyStep 5: Battery pack is made from four 18650 Li-ion cells.

Overview: LED driver and on/off switch wi ll be placed inside water bottle with battery pack. Battery terminal leads use a Molex connector for charging and connecting tdriver.

A. Parts Needed: 18650 battery pack from Battery Space with built-in poly-switch and PCB for protection, Molex wire connectors, on/off toggle switch, buck-puck LEDdriver with pot for dimming.

B. Assemble the wiring harness with solder and shrink tubing. Shown in the third photo is the wiring harness; clockwise from top: dimming pot, LED driver, blue and wwires to LEDs, on/off toggle switch, Molex connector to battery.

C. I used a two-pin connector between the power supply and LEDs, but any good connector will work and preferrably one that can keep out moisture and dirt.


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step 6:Final AssemblyStep 6: Add the finishing touches to the power supply

A. First photo shows the wiring harness bundled and zip-tied underneath the bottle cap. JB-Weld was added to dimming pot wires for strain relief.

B. Drill holes in bottle cap for on/off toggle switch and dimming pot as seen in second photo.

C. I padded the battery pack with pipe insulation for protection inside the bottle.Shown in the third photo is the 2-pin connector that came with the charger. This was soldered onto the coiled wire coming through the bottle spout to connect to LEDs


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step 7:The Completed SystemA. Shown is the completed LED System: Li- ion charger from Battery Space - 3-hour charge time. Charger wire which had 2-pin connector was replaced with Molexconnector to charge battery.

B. LEDs give a very bright white light. Bright portion of beam projects to a distance of about 100-ft and total throw is about 150-ft. These LEDs give 700-lumens of lighequivalent to a 70-watt halogen, but only use 12-watts of power including 1-volt for driver.

step 8:Specs and Parts ListSPECS:Three Cree XR-E R2 LEDs, 700-lumens, 3-hr run time on high using 14.8V 2.4Ah battery, dimmable with adjustable pot., l ight with mounting bracket weighs 0.22-lb (9grams), 4 batteries weigh 0.40-lb (184 grams), 1.5-A Li-ion charger, LED parts cost $75, battery and charger $100.

PARTS (US Dollars)Part - Price - Supplier

LED ASSEMBLY3 Cree XR-E R2 Lamps - $6 each - Deal Xtreme3 Polymer Optic Lenses - $3 each - LED Lighting Supply part #170, 171Hammond Enclosure - $8 - Newark Electronics part #1455B1202BKHalf brick heat sink - $4 - Newark mfr. part #241202B92200Lexan MR10 12x12 inch sheet - $12 - Piedmont Plastics

36-inch Aluminum L-bracket - $4 - Home DepotBuck Puck 1A driver w/pot. - $20 - LED SupplyArctic Silver - $12 - LED SupplyOn/off switch - $0 - Had one; only a few dollars at Battery Space

BATTERY18650 Li-ion 14.8V 2.4Ah - $74 - Battery SpaceLi-ion Charger - $27 - Battery SpaceMolex connectors - $0 - Had some, only a dollar or two

Totals: $75 for light and $100 for power.

Final Note:A month or two after I built this light which cost $175 in parts and was enjoyable to build, a company in China called 'Magic Shine' came out with a 900-lumen LED biklight for $80 including charger, battery pack, and a very nice enclosure. It has a three hour burn time on high and is slightly brighter than this light. It can be purchasedfrom Deal Extreme in China or GeoManGear in the U.S.

"...a lamp to my feet and a light unto my path."

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Comments

10 comments Add Comment

stereophrenic says: Sep 2, 2009. 8:23 PM REPNice work... and I appreciate that you've provided a parts list and prices of everything.. It really brings the true costs of projects into perspective. Noteveryone has all the right parts lying around in their basement...

rocketman221 says: Sep 2, 2009. 2:23 PM REPNice instructable but i would suggest using sealed lead acid batteries instead of lithium they are a lot cheaper, last a lot longer than lithium, and dont need special charger. You can get a 5 Ah 12v battery for $10.

CyberBill says: Sep 2, 2009. 4:49 PM REPI would actually recommend going with LiPo (Lithium Polymer) batteries. They are very lightweight and have amazing output. They are used a lot for Rplanes & cars, and you can find 14.8v 3800mAh LiPos on eBay for $30, and chargers are under $25. This would give you a good cost decrease fromwhat was used, more power (longer l ife!), and you wouldn't be increasing the weight.

Oh, and to the writer, I -love- the idea of usin the water bottle as an enclosure!!

bananafred says: Sep 2, 2009. 3:49 PM REPThey're waaaay heavier so bad for biking.

Simpson_jr says: Sep 2, 2009. 9:05 AM REPI like projects like this but would like to ask every builder to... align it very well. Driving towards someone with a light like this can be very annoying and eve_dangerous_ when you're looking directly in the beam of l ight...

wkumtrider says: Sep 2, 2009. 7:32 AM REPI built one similar to this with only two cree leds and it is really bri ht. Great instructable.

j-plan says: Sep 1, 2009. 9:12 AM REPfirstly, awesome 'ible.this is exactly the kind of thing ive been looking to make,

secondly, could you please advise me on where to get these parts?preferably in the uk :)

thanks

Blue_Dream says: Sep 1, 2009. 10:29 PM REPMy fav place for part is http://www.dealextreme.comThey ship world wide, free of chargeRead the customer reviews to avoid ettin lemons thou ;)

j-plan says: Sep 1, 2009. 9:15 AM REPsorry just noticed your parts list,thanks dude

Buzz_Kill says: Aug 31, 2009. 12:04 PM REPlooks a lot like the cygolite I own, including the offset mount that put the light over the center of the handlebar stem for about 1/2 the cost.

For anybody that doubts the light output of these cree LED's, I can tell you with certainty that they are crazy bright when used with the right power supply /driver. I use mine for commuting, and even on the "dim" setting it is way more than adequate.

Nice job.
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700 Lumen LED Bike Light

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