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Singapore S$7.90 Hong Kong HK$43THailand THB175 indoneSia idr50,000MalaySia Myr17 VieTnaM Vnd85,000Macau Mop44 pHilippineS pHp240 BurMa MMK35 caMBodia KHr22,000 Brunei Bnd7.90 laoS laK52,000TravelandLeisureAsia.com

Secret Beaches

the best styles & Designs for 2012

5 little-known gems, from the philippines to brazil

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march 2012 volume 06 : issue 03

features102Breakingthemold inmanila

The capital of the Philippines is chaotic and crowded, but its also a haven for a growing creative culture, writes lara day, as long as you look in

the right places. photographed by francisco guerrero. guide 111

112 UndiscoveredBeachesThese five hideaways, from Brazil to the Philippines, areat least for nowunder the radar. photographed by dave lauridsen

118 seattlestateofmindYes, it rains in Seattle. gary shteyngart soaks up the literary ambience and culinary delights, its late-night characters and early-morning coffee shops. And then the sun comes out. photographed by jake stangel. guide and map 125

102 artist anton lopez and friends at his exhibit TBC Manila.

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special section92t+ldesignawards2012 Thoughtful design makes travel better, and for T+Ls annual competition, our distinguished jury chose the best of the year. PLUS T+Ls annual salute to our Design Champion.

newsflash29 Luxury furniture, art in Asia,

Singapore dining deals and more.

insider37 restaUrants From Latin

fare to charming local spots, the culinary options in Phnom Penh are getting more enticing by the minute. by naomi lindt

42 hotels Bangkoks new design- driven hotels offer plenty of style without the premium prices. by liang xinyi

44cafes An artisanal coffee wave is underway in Singapore. Heres where to drop in for craft cuppas. by liang xinyi

48 eXPerts Lifestyle aficionados offer their own takes on what to eat, buy and do in five Asian cities.

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march 2012

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top tips from five hip tastemakers

Asian Cool

unearthingthe citys

creative vibe

made in manila

Singapore S$7.90 Hong Kong HK$43THailand THB175 indoneSia idr50,000MalaySia Myr17 VieTnaM Vnd85,000Macau Mop44 pHilippineS pHp240 BurMa MMK35 caMBodia KHr22,000 Brunei Bnd7.90 laoS laK52,000TravelandLeisureAsia.com

Secret Beaches

the best styles & Designs for 2012

5 little-known gems, from the philippines to brazil

03Cover FINAL CKv3.indd 1 10/02/2012 17:53

On the cOver near Panglao in the Philippines, one of five of our undiscovered beaches (see page 112). Photographed by Francisco Guerrero.

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72strategies

76smarttraveler

126lastlook

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march 2012 | travelandleisureasia.com10

sarah rooney heads out in search of some answers. photographed by cedric arnold

86 drinks Oregons Willamette Valley has long reveled in its status

as the anti-Napa. Now its boutique vineyards have been joined by a luxurious new hotel and a crop of ambitious chefs. bruce schoenfeld visits an unspoiled region of America, one thats ripe for discovery. photographed by steve kepple

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56afterdark New Hanoi bars are enticing patrons up to the citys rooftops. by karryn miller.

60 citYgUide Germanys cultural capital of Berlin has a polished new edge. by maria shollenbarger

stylish traveler67icon Whether hitting Hong

Kong or strolling in Hanoi, add a splash of color to your wardrobe with these smart soles.

68 Uniform For handbag designer Christina Yu, frequent travel involves equal parts style and comfort. by karryn miller

70 sPotlight Designer and Project Runway Judge Michael Kors tells mimi lombardo about the South African trip that influenced his new collection.

journal79Preservation Rangoons rich collection of colonial architecture is worn down, so what happens to it now that the country is opening up to the outside world? 60

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DeStInAtIOnS trIp IDeASarchitecture 79, 92

arts + culture 32, 48, 60

Beaches 24, 112

Books 48, 118

city 24, 79, 102, 118

design 29, 32, 48, 92, 102

Fashion 32, 48, 67, 68, 70

Food + Wine 32, 37, 44, 48

hotels + resorts 24, 32, 42, 60, 72, 92

nightlife 56

shopping 30, 48

travel tips 74, 76

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in this issue

Seattleif youre into urban kayaking, dont worry about the emerald citys weather: light rain is ideal for the sport. march sees the start of the kayak season at the Paddle club on Portage Bay, located between lakes union and Washington, which offer views of the space needle or Foster island, home to migratory birds. For lunch, try the clubs agua verde caf. (For more on seattle, see page 118).

Featured destination

trav

el tip

SOutheASt ASIA Bali 30, 126Bangkok 30, 42, 48, 72 Burma 26hanoi 56, 72hong Kong 32, 48Jakarta 24, 48Kuala lumpur 48malaysia 72maldives 32manila 72, 102Philippines 112Phnom Penh 37Phuket 30, 72rangoon 79samui 24singapore 24, 32, 44, 72taipei 24, 48thailand 24, 29vietnam 26

ASIA Beijing 72china 24 mumbai 72 tokyo 32

AuStrAlIA, new ZeAlAnD AnD the pAcIfIc lord howe island 112new Zealand 92

eurOpeBerlin 60France 112hamburg 92Paris 92reykjavik 92

the AmerIcAS Brazil 112california 112new York 92oregon 86seattle 118

AfrIcA AnD the mIDDle eAStabu dhabi 92istanbul 92south africa 70tel aviv 92

seattle118

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wheretofindme)) [email protected])) @CKucway on Twitter

travel + leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industrys most reliable sources. while on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind.

Anyone who loves to travel knows that cutting-edge style and designeverything from must-have gadgets to jaw-dropping

worldsBestremember to vote for your favorite hotels and resorts at www.tlworldsBest.com/intl until the end of this month.

asenseofPlaceKeep an eye peeled for the book Pondicherry, a visual exploration of the seaside city by contributing photographer sebastian corts. he gets beyond the merely public spaces he shoots and into the private world to tell his stories.

madeinchinanew to china is the Westin Xian, with 329 guest rooms and suites designed to reflect the citys history. the hotel exterior, for starters, takes its cues from the ninth century tang dynasty, the golden age of the city. theres also a museum, home to more than 2,000 artifacts from the surrounding area. westin.com/xian; 86-29/6568-6568.

vOte,nOte AnD check-In


editors note

architectureplays an integral role in our journeys. We globe-trot to explore and to experience all that is new, so design is key. As in years past, our 2012 Design Awards (page 92) present a global take on whats avant-garde and, hopefully, helpful on our travels.

On a more local level is an inside look at the stylish side of Asia through the eyes of five creative types in different settings (The Cool Hunters, page 48). Dont miss their inside take on everywhere from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur to Jakarta.

One city not mentioned is the Philippine capital, though we do tour its evolving style scene in Breaking the Mold in Manila (page 102). Manila? Yes, its true. Often the best side of any city is the one that goes beyond the guidebook, ventures outside of the shopping mall and explores what locals love best about their home. The underbelly. Thats true in Manila. Think guerilla dinners; a warehouse full of hip entrepreneurs and their creations; and soothing, difficult-to-find eateries.

Yet design doesnt always have to be flashy and new to turn heads. I, for one, relish visiting places like Rangoon, where the colonial-era buildings that line city streets should be read like a history booknot always an easy premise in a closed society like Burma. The history in such dilapidation tells its own tale, so this month we take a look at some reasons to preserve this forgotten citys crumbling architecture (Legacy in Limbo, page 79).

Where some of us see great beauty in an old building, others need little more than a secluded strip of sand. If you count yourself among that crowdand who doesnt?then look no further than Undiscovered Beaches (page 112), a glimpse of five hideaways around the world, including stops in the Philippines and Australia. There are quite a few more scattered around Southeast Asia, we know, and well be sharing them with you in the coming months. For now, just get out and explore.christopher kucway

PATH-St Regis T+L SEA March Ad'12.indd 1 2/7/12 4:02 PM

www.TravelandLeisureAsia.com

Indulge yourself

Throughout Southeast AsiaThe worldS leAding TrAvel mAgAzine

To suBsCrIBe, see our special offer on page 83.

for more information e-mail [email protected]

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Travel+Leisure.indd 1 12/30/11 12:12 PM

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francisco guerrerophotographer

Assignment Brand Manila (page 102).UnderrAted mAnilAThe creative vibe you feel everywhere. There are galleries, bars and coffee shops sprouting up and that vibe just infuses these places.FAve getAwAy in the city The Collective. You end up meeting the owners of the stores and the regulars. Its a great place to sit down and chat about anything from art to environmental issues.Oh, and the burgers are good.Best mAnilA designsThe random chaos of street markets in Quiapo.dont Forget to BUy A T-shirt from Team Manila.FAvorite getAwAy A two-hour drive south to Batangas for its beaches and dive sites.Along the way you can stop in Tagaytay for some great food and a cool breeze.

gary shteyngartwriter

Assignment Seattle State of Mind (page 118).thing to do in seAttle Go down to Georgetown and just let something gritty happen to you. Eventually, it will. the city is... So damn cheap. Its the cheapest place I think Ive ever been to for Travel + Leisure, Berlin included.how do yoU docUment yoUr trAvel experiences? In both a flimsy little notebook and on a series of napkins that take days to decode.essentiAl trAvel items Everything I need I steal from business class.Books or e-reAders? I dont know how to use an e-reader, but I do know how to turn on a book.

karryn miller writer

Assignment Wrote Night Views (page 56).Biggest chAnge in hAnoi The traffic. Cyclos, bikes and mopeds are slowly being replaced by cars. Hanois streets cant handle more wheels, driving here is madness.in hAnoi, do not miss... People watching while drinking Vietnamese coffee, whether from one of the makeshift street stalls or from a caf. If you sit in a place long enough youll find that Hanoi comes to you. mUst eAt in vietnAm Pho cuon, rice paper spring rolls. Their thicker, softer skin makes them more delicious than most.hAnoi or sAigon? Hanoi, but I love both cities. Saigon is great for a weekend getaway (especially during Hanois dreary winter) but the capital has more charm in its architecture and to me feels more Vietnamese.next Big AdventUre Mumbai! After two years in Vietnam its time to tackle India.

tIme fOr SOme teA?As much as I enjoyed your picks for a dozen places to go this year [12 for 2012, January 2012], I really cant see myself heading to Mozambique in the near future, intriguing as it sounds. Sri Lanka, on the other hand, is a place Ive been fascinated with ever since I read Michael Ondaatjes memoir Running in the Family nearly twenty years ago. You should cover the island nation in more detail. It seems like everyone is talking about it now, and I hear its a gem of a place for a vacation.

mary walters, hong kong

OrgAnIc OutreAchIt would be nice if hotels like the Four Seasons [Natural Groceries, January 2012] did more to promote the use of organic ingredients outside their properties, in communities at large. Maybe through some kind of outreach program? Local knowledge of plants and herbs seems to be disappearing so fast. Even in local markets the variety of fruits and vegetables isnt what it was 30 years ago. Its in the hospitality industrys interest to preserve the aspects of northern Thailand that make it special.

phichit souvannavong, bangkok

khmer flAIrBravo to the young artists, photographers and gallery owners who are revitalizing Cambodias art scene, and bravo to Naomi Lindt for uncovering the trend ["Generation C," January 2012]. I love art, I live only

send your letters to [email protected] and let us know your thoughts on recent stories or new places to visit. letters chosen may be edited for clarity and space. the letter of the month receives a free one-year subscription to Travel + Leisure (southeast asia only). reader opinions expressed in letters do not necessarily reflect those of Travel + Leisure southeast asia, media transasia ltd., or american express publishing.

mail

e-mAIl t+l

letterofthemonth

three hundred kilometers from Phnom Penh and I had no idea that there was such a wealth of artistic energy there. People forget how vibrant New Khmer music was before the war, partly because so much of what was cutting-edge has been lost. Its so heartening to see the Khmer flair for personal expression reassert itself. This is why I subscribe to your magazinethank you.margaret mckibben, siem reap

DynAmIc DIShThat is the most beautiful plate of food Ive ever seen! [Sydneys Next Great Neighborhood, January 2012] I guess biodynamic means almost too perfect to eat.

shara murphy, penang

h

Neighborhood,

Travel & Leisure Asia March 2012Size: 266.7mmHx203.2mmW 175# Epson(39L)+PDF JOE286533_HTS_D: 12-003

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w taipei, taiwan.

budget-friendlytips for your travel planning

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bestdealsaffordable asian trips

BY THE BEACH thAIlAnDOpening Offer atInterContInental SamuI Baan talIng ngam reSort (66-77/429-100; intercontinental.com/samui). WhatS InCluded A stay in a Beachfront Pool villa; welcome cocktails; breakfast at Amber restaurant; use of water sports facilities; and Wi-Fi Internet. CoSt From Bt17,195 per night, double, through March 31. SavIngS 20 percent.

InDOneSIA Six Senses package at Balis ayana reSort and Spa (62-361/702-222; ayanaresort.com). WhatS InCluded A stay in Resort View room with free room upgrade (when available); round-trip airport transfers; daily breakfast; a perfume making workshop; one Balinese massage; a yoga session; and one dinner with traditional dance performances. CoSt From US$337 per night, double, four-night minimum, through December 24. SavIngSUp to 40 percent.

SCENIC ESCAPEchInA Spa package at ShangrI-la hotel, guIlIn (86-773/269-8888; shangri-la.com). WhatS InCluded A stay in a Deluxe room; round-trip airport transfers; daily breakfast; one 60-minute massage; and Internet. CoSt From RMB1,580 per night, two-night minimum, double, through March 31. SavIngS 30 percent.

thaIland Ramayana Indulgence package at ramayana Koh Chang resort & Spa (66-39/551-033; ramayana.co.th). Whats Included A two-night stay in a Hanuman Deluxe room; daily breakfast; two set dinners; one snorkeling trip; one aromatherapy or massage; one kayaking trip; and free shuttle to Klong Plu Waterfall and White Sand Beach. Cost From Bt9,000 (Bt4,500 per night), double, through March 31. Savings 31 percent.

URBAN STAYS InDOneSIAEnjoy Jakarta package at mandarIn orIental, JaKarta (62-21/2993-8800; mandarinoriental.com/jakarta). WhatSInCluded A stay in Superior room with free room upgrade (if available) and extra bed for children under 12; daily breakfast at Cinnamon restaurant; a one-hour traditional Indonesian massage at Fitness and Wellness; and in-room Internet. CoStFrom US$253 per night, double, through March 31. SavIngS Up to 30 percent.

tAIwAnDetox & Refuel package at W taIpeI (886-2/7703-8888; wtaipei.com). WhatS InCluded A two-night stay in a Wonderful room; four meals (two breakfasts and two lunches); fruit juices and smoothies; two massages at Away Spa; in-room aromatherapy; and morning exercises at Sweat gym. CoStNT$45,600 (NT$22,800 per night), double, through August 23. SavIngS 58 percent.

SIngApOre Jet Set package atmovenpICKherItage hotel SentoSa (65/6818-3388; moevenpick-sentosa.com). WhatS InCludedA stay in a Deluxe room; welcome bottle of champagne; daily breakfast; late check-out (when available); and one-way limousine service from the hotel to airport. CoSt From S$388 per night, through June 30. SavIngS47 percent.

intercontinental samui Baan taling ngam resort, thailand.

shangri-la hotel, guilin, china.

ramayana Koh chang resort & spa, thailand.

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deal of the month


www.indigo-pearl.com

Chic industrial minimalism meets unabashed opulence. Bold light falling on richly textured surfaces.A familys storied past colliding with ultra-modern design.

Indigo Pearl now offers seven exclusive Pool Villas. A secluded havenat Phukets most daring destination resort. Luxury to crave.

Chic industrial minimalism meets unabashed opulence. Bold light falling on richly textured surfaces.A familys storied past colliding with ultra-modern design.

Indigo Pearl now offers seven exclusive Pool Villas. A secluded havenat Phukets most daring destination resort. Luxury to crave.

A private paradise that knows no boundsA private paradise that knows no bounds

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Q: are there anYcrUises that focUsonvietnam?

marYng, singapore

A: As it happens,orionexpeditioncruises(orionexpeditions.com) has announced three tours that take in some of Vietnams most compelling sites. Departures on March 12 and 21 (from US$5,387 per person, twin share) call in Saigon, Nha Trang, Danang, Hue, Hoi An, Halong Bay and Hanoi aboard the Orion II, which is small enough to navigate the waterways of the Vietnamese coast on a 10-day cruise. On March 30, Orion has a special photography expedition (from US$6,730 per person, twin share) that explores the countrys backwaters and unesco World Heritage Sites accompanied by a professional photographer.

Q: howdoiknowthatwhatimeating is ethicallYsoUrced?

adriene wielens, denpasar

A: Its not easy to navigate the waters ofethical dininglong-held traditions often hold more sway over whats on the plate than considerations of dwindling fish populations, for instance. In November, however, The Peninsula Hotels removed shark fin from the menu at their restaurants, making them the first luxury hotel brand to do so. In January, Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts followed suit and even went one step further, announcing that they will phase out Chilean sea bass and blue-fin tuna within the year at all 72 of their properties worldwide. For a deeper look at our complicated relationship with the oceans bounty, check out Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food, by Paul Greenberg (Penguin).

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Paul greenbergs Four Fish.

im going to burma with my fiance. any ideas for something special to do?

marcel serrato, hong kong

the Orion II.

above ananda Pahto, in Bagan.

there are few more memorable places in the world to watch the sun set than from a perch on the ledge of a 700-year-old pagoda at the Bagan archeological Park. as the sky turns the same ocher hue as the ground below it, even the dust can feel romantic, in its hazy otherworldliness. But theres another, perhaps more impressive way to take in the ancient citys nearly 2,500 temples. BalloonsoverBagan(95-1/652-809; easternsafaris.com; standard service US$310 per person) offers safe, professional hot-air balloon rides that include a champagne breakfast. Because the balloons are breeze-powered, their flight path is dependent on the direction of the wind. every tour is different, every route a surprise. in the best spirit of travel, you never know where youll end up.


At Pimalai Resort & Spa, the only sounds you will hear are the waves gently washing on the shore, the sigh of the breeze in the trees,the rustle of the palm fronds.

The only sights youll see are the luminous pink and orange of the tropical sunset, the spectacular limestone islands which dot the sea and the smiles of our staff.

The only tastes you will taste are the heavenly cocktails at our beach bar, the exotic flavors of authentic Thai cuisine and the myriad choices on our international menu.

Dream on your daybed, relax on your villa deck, swim in the stunning infinity pool or the ocean, explore the rainforest and the fabulous tropical gardens, indulge yourself at our spa or do nothing at all.

erenity,The Ultimate Experience...

www.pimalai.com

Koh Lanta Krabi Thailande: [email protected] t: +66 2 320 5500 f: +66 2 320 5503

Relaxation Nature&

S

Pimalai T+L Design.indd 1 27/01/2012 15:22

Dear Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia readers,

We trust you. We trust your judgment. Thats why we want you to rate your global travel experiences for us, in the 2012 Travel + Leisure Worlds Best Awards. These awards are recognized as travels highest honor, so its time to give back to those hotels, spas, airlines, cruise lines, travel companies and destinations you love. Readers of all global editions of Travel + Leisure will participate in the awards.

So visit www.TLWorldsBest.com/intl and tell us exactlywhat you think. The full global results will be published in our August edition.

Christopher Kucway Editor-in-Chief Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

WoRlDS

BEST AWARDS

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vote for your 2012 favoriteswww.TLWorldsBest.com/intl

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Alex Lamonts workshop on the outskirts of Bangkok crafts luxury furniture, lighting and objets made with time-honored techniquesboth Asian and Europeanand precious materials such as bronze, gold leaf and shagreen. This year, the company became known as Alexander Lamont, a move that seeks to refresh and re-imagine the next ten years, according to its namesake. Drawing inspiration from a moment in a film, the architecture of jewelry and elsewhere, the new collection, like his earlier work, feels both contemporary and antique, perhaps because Lamonts intention is to make things that will be considered beautiful now and that will be worthy of looking after. Pieces include an eight-leg shagreen credenza that weighs more than 30 kilograms and tables reminiscent of Monets water lilies. 66-2/913-8218; alexanderlamont.com.

Furniture

PRECIoUS PIECES With a relaunch, furniture designer Alex Lamont presents a more personal and sophisticated collection. by mr igaa s eth i

A gold leafcovered mirror. Designer Alex Lamont, below; one of his bronze vase creations.

your global guide to whats happening right now...newsflash


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The Design TreaTmenT Theres more to Asias newest spas than the massages

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Timing is everyThing in an era of mass-produced gadgets, there is a certain pride in knowing that a single swiss artisan produced your watch by hand. Case in point: the 18-karat white-gold and alligator Cartier Calibre Multiple Time Zone. with the ability to track the time in 24 cities and a face that displays the hour in two places at once, this is the ultimate accessory for jet-setters. price upon request; cartier.com.Mimi lombardo

With a treatment nest and a smaller shower nest both hanging from a

100-year-old banyan tree, The Nest at Indigo Pearl Phukets Coqoon Spa (indigo-pearl.com; traditional Thai massage Bt2,400), by Thai-based designer Bill Bensley, is a contrast to the resorts industrial-chic look. Influenced by the spherical home of the

weaver bird, synthetic fibers wrapped around a steel frame

create porous walls that seem to breathe, enveloping you as if you

were a baby bird.

The urban Elemis Spa at the St. Regis Bangkok (starwoodhotels.com/stregis/bangkok; traditional Thai massage Bt3,000) designed by Kate and Paul Greenwood of studioaria, elevates every element to luxurious effect: lavish white leather adorns the reception and corridor columns while sand-colored carpet with double underlay gives sensuously underfoot. The changing room becomes a place to linger with a duplex of pools and waterfall, relaxation pods, hydrotherapy and individually lit dressing tables. Spacious treatment rooms incoporate Rasul chambers, where guests can bathe in heat, steam and clay.

The edge in Balis Uluwatu district (the-edgebali.com; The Edge Massage US$65) offers a contrastingsense of sanctuary with cocooning, curving walls on one side and a birds eye panorama of the Indian Ocean on the other, in its single-room Spa. Dreamed up by Adria Lake of A.W.LAKE Spa Design & Concept,the spas short trip from the relaxation loungerto the treatment bed involves getting your feet wet: the floor of the treatment space is a shallow pool, bringing the feeling of the ocean inside and delightfully waking up all of your senses before the therapist has even started.cathar ine n i col

dESIgNER maSSagES Clockwise from above: The cocoon-like room at The Nest; watery and well-lit at The edge in Bali; a modern look at the Elemis Spa at the St. Regis Bangkok.

newsflash

CuLture

ARTS IN ASIAThis month, take your pick from design, film and fashion. March 18-21 sees the launch of the first ever design days dubai (designdaysdubai.ae), a high-end art fair of design pieces and limited-edition collectibles. The event brings together galleries and collectors from London, Beirut, Seoul and elsewhere, and will take place in the basement of the Burj Khalif. Concurrently, mercedes-Benz fashion Week tokyo (March 18-23; www.jfw.jp/en) unveils the Autumn/Winter 2012 collections of Japanese designers like Eri Matsui, who is as noted for her mathematically-inspired designs as she is for her wedding dresses, and Ato Matsumoto, whose sartorial street wear juxtaposes a neutral palette with bright accents and rippling fabrics. A little later in the month, the hong Kong International film festival (March 21-April 5; hkiff.org/hk), a longstanding platform for Asian cinema, kicks off with 330 titles, seminars by filmmakers and exhibitions. This year will feature a special tribute to Hong Kongs own Peter Ho-Sun Chan, with the screening of 12 of his films, including Alan & Eric: Between Hello and Goodbye (1991) and Comrades, Almost A Love Story (1996).ms c

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Singapore epicureans have a new way to save on dining and drinks in the Lion City with the January launch of Palate (palate.sg; annual fee starting at S$428), a rewards program from American Express. With almost 60 participating bars and restaurants throughout the city, the program offers savings at such upscale establishments as celebrity chef Susur Lees Chinois at Resorts World Sentosa; the re-launched Brasserie Wolf at Robertson Quay; and Keystone Restaurant, whose progressive European cuisine was one of last years most heralded new additions to the Central Business Districts dining scene. Designed so that one diner always eats free, Palate offers members discounts ranging from 50 percent off for two people dining to 20 percent off for groups of five or more. Theres also the option of 15 percent off drinks at several bars, including Post Bar at the iconic Fullerton Hotel and Bartini on Club Street, and 10 percent off purchases at gourmet food retailer Culina. Palate members will also receive vouchers for up to S$1,500 and have access to a number of exclusive events throughout the year, including tasting menus and wine-pairing dinners. richard hermes

An artful plate of fig and Parma ham salad, part of the Palate plan.


rewardS

A REfINED PAlATE

the dusit thani makes its mark on the maldives with the opening of the thai-inspired 100-villa dusitthanimaldives. a 35-minute seaplane ride from mal, the resort is located on mudhdhoo island in Baa atoll, minutes away from the unesco World Biosphere reservedesignated hanifara huraa and surrounded by a coral reef. in addition to the signature

devarana spasix treetop treatment pods overlooking a coconut grovethe highlight is the 750-square-meter infinity pool. the resort emphasizes sustainable dining and offers detox breakfasts and fine dining on the beach where the cooking is done alfresco, right on the edge of the indian ocean. dusit.com; opening rates from US$788.ms

opening

new to the Maldives

From top: Limited edition stool by Adrien De Melo, to be featured at Design Days Dubai; the musical Perhaps Love.

SPECIAL PROMOTION

DO THE ART WALK

this page left: Sky On 57 SunSet COCktail;

Chef Guy SavOy; Guy SavOy interiOr; OppOsite page tOp: riSinG fOreSt at the MBS lOBBy; anthOny GOrMely - Drift; anDy WarhOl Self-POrtrait,

1963-1964.

E V E R Y M O M E N T R E W A R D E D

WIN

Few things in life go better together than internationally renowned art and top-flight wines. Thats why Marina Bay Sands has gone to great lengths to combine the two. The iconic facility is home to 10 individual art installations that create shapes and moods designed to provide the public with a chance to experience large-scale artwork in one locale. Follow the art path and in the hotels atrium in Tower 1 youll encounter Antony Gormleys Drift, a massive, 40-meter-long stainless-steel sculpture of more than 16,000 rods and more than 8,000 nodes that hangs between levels 5 and 12. Also in the atrium is Rising Forest by Chongbin Zheng, a ceramic sculpture composed of 83 vessels, each holding a tree. This, in turn, creates an indoor canopy that extends to Singapores tropical outdoors. Each piece was made in Yixing, China in a kiln the size of a small building. Next on the list is James Carpenters work, which

is a little less obvious. A series of glass and metal fins are suspended in front of a 112- by 17-meter reflective metal faade in front of The Shoppes and accentuate the serpentine quality of the faade in a piece that changes constantly depending upon the time of day. Wind Arbor, by Ned Kahn, is a sculpture of 260,000 aluminum flappers that reflect light and move with the wind on the west end of the complex, while Rain Oculus creates a whirlpool amid the retail mall, one that is two stories high. Also using water as a theme is Kahns Tipping Wall, which involves 7,000 channels that run down a reinforced concrete wall. Sol LeWitt has two wall-drawing installations, one at the hotel reception and a second in the pedestrian network connecting Marina Bay Sands to the propertys MRT station. At the Garden Bay Bridge, Zhan Wang offers up two artificial rocks, sculptures inspired by The Scholars Rock. To top off the Art Path

are two islands, one made of glass, the other of stone, an installation by Israel Hadany called Motion recently installed in the hotels atrium. They aim to introduce nature into the architectural beauty that Marina Bay Sands has become.

Warhol in SingaporeOf course, not all great art is as new as those found along the Art Path. To mark the 25th anniversary of Andy Warhols death, ArtScience Museum at Marina Bay Sands is staging a collection of his works from March 17 until August 12. Andy Warhol: 15 Minutes Eternal features more than 260 of the artists paintings, drawings, sculptures, films and videos. Enhancing the exhibit is an interactive timeline and rich supply of archival materials that no Warhol fan should miss. This artistic journey will traverse four stages of the artists life, including his early influences, the Factory Years of the 1960s

when many of his iconic painting were made, the 1970s when Polaroid shots of celebrities were the medium of choice, and finally his ventures into television towards the end of his life. Singapore marks the first of five stops in Asia for the exhibit.

Portraits of Young ArtistsA more local take on the art scene 20 Singaporean artists joined forces at Marina Bay Sands to exhibit their works in January. The event was part of the Sovereign Asian Art Prize Singapore 2012 and raised more than S$300,000 for Singapores Art Outreach program. At 22, Denise Tan was the youngest artist to be featured, her portraits standing alongside the Chinese ink work of Quek Kiat Seng.

Exclusively FrenchOnce your appetite for Warhol and Singapores local art scene has been sated,

its time for some culinary delights. So why not escape to Paris without leaving Singapore? Bites & Bubbles at Guy Savoy now offers tasting portions of signature items from the flagship Parisian restaurant. Choose between two and four items, among these New Zealand scampi, beef tartare with pommes dauphines and Iberico de Bellotta ham. The intimate setting is also a perfect place for a glass or two of Champagne or the finest in French wines. Using only the freshest ingredients, Chef Savoy is attuned to what makes a dining experience truly exceptionalthe proof is in his three Michelin stars in Paris.

Sky HighFor a bar with a view, you cant do much better than Sky on 57 and its Outdoor Terrace. Its the perfect place to chill out cocktail in hand surrounded by a spectacular night sky. If youre feeling

peckish, a key element here is the Oyster Bar, the citys best selection of hand-picked oysters. All of this comes with its own soundtrack, one that travels well with Champagne, oysters or cigarsthe choice is all yours.

FOR MORE ART INFORMATION:http://www.marinabaysands.com

2 night stay, a voucher for 2 guests to enjoy Bubbles & Bites at Guy Savoy and 2 tickets to Warhol at the ArtScience Museum.http://contest.TravelandLeisureAsia.com/mbs

MBS MARCH FINAL CKV3.indd 1-2 2/16/12 4:07 PM

47 JUNE 2012_SHANGHAI

ENTER A WORLD OF UNIQUE POSSIBILITIES

IMMERSE YOUR SENSES IN A WORLD OF THEMOST EXCLUSIVE LUXURY TRAVEL EXPERTS

ILTM Asia, the leading by invitation only event, showcases the worlds most sought after destinations and ultra-unique travel experiences to the most discerning luxury travel buyers from across the Asia Pacifi c.

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destinations trendsrestaurants + Moreinsider

NEw flAvoRS. from homemade latin fare to charming local spots in historic buildings, the culinarY options in phnom penh are getting more enticing bY the minute. BYnaomilindt

Photographed by Cedric Arnold

the OlD wIth the new clockwise from left: seafood salpicon in an avocado cream, with banana chips at tepui; the antique-heavy dcor at tepui; tuscan chef manuelo Pintore at do Forni restaurant, sofitel Phnom Penh.

insider restaurants


SOfItel phOkeethrA phnOm penhWhen the Sofitel Phokeethra Phnom Penh debuted in early 2011, it became the first five-star hotel to open in the capital city since the 1990s. And with this sophisticated arrival has come a bevy of enticing dining options, offering dedicated spaces to Italian, Chinese, Japanese and French-inspired fare. River-facinglacoupolehas become Phnom Penhs most decadent spot for Sunday brunch with its imported oysters, caviar, sashimi and hand-carved meats, not to mention the chocolate-fountain at the dessert buffet (US$90 for two). Intimate, modern Chinese restaurant fulu Zu boasts the citys largest array of weekend dim sum, with options like pork and shrimp shu mai and barbecued pork buns; weekdays it serves a Cantonese menu with specialties like crispy pork (dim sum US$40 for two). A Tuscan chef is responsible for the magic at doforni (US$60 for two), which delivers a mouthwatering tuna carpaccio, an array of Italy-sourced salami and meats and crispy pizzas from a stone oven that proudly stands in full view of the dining room. Finally, theres top-grade sushi and Kobe beefdelicacies hard to come by in Cambodiain moody, zen-like hachi (US$74 for two). 26 Old August Site, Sothearos Blvd.; 855-23/999-200; sofitel.com.

mAngOSteenOver the last few years, Street 282 in the expat neighborhood of Boeung Keng Kang has morphed from a dark, uninspiring thoroughfare into a welcoming strip with some of Phnom Penhs most reliable food and drink options.

tepuI At chIneSe hOuSeSince opening in late 2008 as the Chinese House, this lovingly restored mustard-yellow villa across from the container port has become one of the Phnom Penh's most memorable spots to spend an evening, thanks in no small part to the 1903 structures swoon-worthy Sino-French architecture. Previously, though the drinks and exhibits were good, the food was an afterthought. That all changed last March, when young Venezuelan duo Gisela Salazar Golding and Antonio Lopez de Haro revamped the buildings interior and opened tepui, a stylish restaurant and bar serving Latin-Mediterranean-Asian dishes. Seated in antique wooden chairs at white and purpleclad tables and surrounded by contemporary regional art, guests linger for hours over dishes like homemade terrine de foie gras with green mango chutney, pan-seared red snapper with potato and chorizo mash, and duck in tamarind sauce served with couscous. Newly openedgastrobar Botanico is the pairs latest venture, which serves tapas in a verdant tropical garden. 45 Sisowath Quay; 855-23/991-514; tepui.asia; dinner for two US$50; Gastrobar Botanico; 9b St. 29; 855-17/873-101.

flAvOrS fOr All From left: the dining room at la coupole, one of four new restaurants at sofitel Phokeethra Phnom Penh; preparing a seafood dish at the hotel.

latinquarter occupies the buildings ground floor and fan-cooled terrace, a sprawling space with mismatched wooden tables and couches for enjoying the selection of Cuban cigars and fine Argentine and Spanish wines. All the classic bets are winners heremanchego cheese croquettes, bread with garlic mayonnaise, gambas with garlic and chili, grilled red pepper, anchovy and eggplant saladalong with an interesting selection of daily specials marked on a blackboard by the bar, which might include hearty meatballs or risotto

with spinach and tiger prawns. Even if youre not craving tapas, its worth stopping by to check out the regular live music and salsa dancing. 28 Preah Ang Makhak Vann (St. 178); 855-93/319-081; tapas for two US$30.

lA cItA renDeZ-vOuSFinding adequate, well-prepared Central and South American flavors in Asia can be a challenging affair. And though Phnom Penh has its fair share of salsa- and taco-producing locales, they pale in comparison to year-old lacitarendez-vous, opened by Chilean Richard Rojas. Grab a seat outside in the basic open-air dining area (lets just say the dcor is not the draw here) and watch Rojas and his staff chop fresh tomatoes, onions and chilies for addictive pico de gallo and sweat over sizzling pans of sauteed peppers, onions and charbroiled chicken or top sirloin steak. Top choices include the lomo saltadoa Peruvian dish made with strips of beef, chilis, and French friesand the soft tacos, which can be filled with a choice of five types of meat, including chorizo or slow-cooked shredded pork, and a selection of delicious salsas, ranging from mild to spicy. Other noteworthy options include burritos, quesadillas filled with peppers, onions and cheese, and steaks served with cassava and fresh guacamole. Because everything is handmadeeven the corn chips come warm out of the ovenexpect to wait, but its well worth it. 13 St. 282; 855-92/388-123; dinner for two US$20.

insider restaurants


mangosteen is the latest arrival, offering a stylish, comfortable venue to sample dishes from Vietnam, Laos, Burma, Thailand and Cambodia. Plates like hearty, potato- and peanut-accented Khmer chicken curries, crispy prawn cakes with tangy mango dipping sauce, fresh goi cuon spring rolls stuffed with rice noodles and fresh shrimp, and spicy-sour fish soups are shared in the breezy, red-and-white dining room. Theres also an atmospheric bar area, where you can sip a cold, locally brewed Kingdom beer or a signature cocktailtry the gin, lemongrass and lime martiniwhile seated amid exposed brick and red-silk lighting. 1c St. 282; 855-23/216-416; dinner for two US$25.

lAtIn QuArterThe latest restaurant offering from the group that was behind the now-closed Pacharan is all Latin charm. Of course, much of that charm comes from the setting, a grand colonial villa at the corner of streets 19 and 178, near the National Museum.

trOpIcAl DInIng From left: Fan- cooled seating at mangosteen; a passionfruit dessert at the sofitel Phokeethra Phnom Penh.

insider hotels


BANgkok BY DESIgN. new design-driven hotels offer stYle without premium prices in the thai capital. t+l picks five striking debuts. BYliangXinYi

tOp Of the wOrlD From top: at the

speakeasy bar atop hotel muse; a lit hotel guest room.

hOtel muSe Housed in a cupola-topped building, Hotel Muse has become one of the citys luxe-boutique retreats. Thai design firm PIA references a blend of fin de sicle France and Thailands Rama V era, styling the darkened lobby with wrought-iron lattice walls and arching ceilings. The 174 rooms and suitesnamed after the Buddhist cosmic levels of Jatu, Dowadueng, Yama, Dusid, Nimman and Paranimhave stuccoed ceilings and faux vintage suitcase drawers. Basement-level eatery Medici features solid Italian fare in a space that feels like a renovated wine cellar. t+ltiP The Jatu Deluxe and Dowadeung Corner Deluxe rooms have our favorite bathroom designs: claw-foot baths, hand-painted basins and mirrors etched with scenes from an old-time Siam. 55/555 Langsuan Rd.; 66-2/630-4000; hotelmusebangkok.com; doubles from Bt5,500.

lIt hOtelJust 300 meters away from the discount shopperthronged MBK, the aluminum-wrapped faade of Lit Hotel was the brainchild of Bangkok-based VaSLab, which has filled the L-shaped seven-story edifice with fluid composition throughout: grass-clad concrete steps lead up to the alfresco tapas bar; a spiral stairwell connects the amber-swathed Kiriya Spa to the sleek lounge pool and bistro. The Different Degree rooms feature elongated bathrooms running parallel

Photographed by Cedric Arnold

AlOft BAngkOk - SukhumvIt 11The youngerbut equally style-conscioussister of the W brand, Aloft Bangkok - Sukhumvit 11 has an energetic vibe, as befits its location in the buzzing Nana precinct. Alofts penchant for linear prints and bright accents are found throughout the property, with whimsical accents dreamed up by leading design firm Hassell. The 296-room hotel features only two room typesChic and Urbanbut both have high-ceilinged interiors with enormous windows and cushions in eye-popping colors, alongside more modern trappings such as free Wi-Fi, an iPod dock and a 42-inch TV. t+ltiP Dont miss a visit to the neighboring Bed Supperclub, one of the citys hippest hangouts, as access is free for Aloft guests. 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11; 66-2/207-7000; alofthotels.com/bangkoksukhumvit11; doubles from Bt2,111.

to the bedrooms, and in the Extra Radiance rooms the soaking tub is the pice de rsistance, with soft indigo and red rays beaming down from the rain shower. t+ltiPTraveling as a trio? Opt for the Triple Luxe suite, which has amenities (wash basins, wardrobes and work desks) for three. 36/1 Soi Kasemsan 1, Rama 1 Rd.; 66-2/612-3456; litbangkok.com; doubles from Bt7,000.

SOfItel SOIn the frenetic financial district, Sofitel So is for artsy types as much as business travelers with check-ins via iPads and in-room tech amenities powered by Apple Mac mini. The 30-story, curvy exterior was designed by Smith Obayawat, and the countrys top creative brains were hired to do the interiors based on the five elements. Among the 238 guest rooms, the Metal rooms stand out with minimalist, stark white interiors, while the Earth rooms juxtapose Thai primeval murals and cobalt blue tones with black-and-white-tiled bathrooms. Plus, fashion maverick Christian Lacroix put his flamboyant touches on the Tree of Life hotel emblem. t+ltiP Partially cantilevered on the 29th floor, Park Society & Hi-So is the perfect roost to take in 360-degree views of the adjacent Lumpini Park. 2 N. Sathorn Rd.; 66-2/624-0000; sofitel.com; doubles from Bt5,100.

AetAS lumpInIA glass-and-concrete outpost on busy Rama IV Road, the 27-story Aetas Lumpini has an earnest, understated charm. In its 203 guest rooms and suites, neutral earth tones are offset by Mondrian-inspired paintings and sketches of Bangkoks historic landmarks. Common areas play up the quirky-chic appealteal-green sofas accent brown corduroy seats in the lobby and an all-white ceramic chandelier hangs near the entryway. Launched last month, the One-80 Wine Bar on the 27th floor has great views. t+ltiP If youre looking for romance, opt for the 70-square-meter Premier suitethe bathroom door slides open to a sunken bathtub enclosed by Bangkok vistas. 1030/4 Rama IV Rd.; 66-2/618-9555; aetashotels.com; doubles from Bt4,250.

travelandleisureasia.com | march 2012 43

thAI cApItAl StyleSclockwise from above: details at hotel muse; sofitel sos ninth-floor lobby; christian lacroix uniform at the sofitel so. top: the style-concious bar at aloft.

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n OrIOle cOffee rOASterSThanks to owner Keith Loh, one of the citys most respected baristas, this four-month-old outpost has quickly become a favorite among the coffee-drinking set. The three-story shop house caf offers a great merchandise lineup (siphon coffee makers, steam thermometers), in addition to an onsite roasting room and a lab facility for experimenting with different blends. While the focus is on craft drinks like piccolo latte and flat white, the caf also pays homage to Singapores traditional kopitiam (coffee shop) culture with nostalgic bric-a-brac1970s Guinness glasses, tungsten light bulbs and porcelain tablewareand a snacks menu featuring local classics such as tau

sar piah (mung bean pastry) and kaya (pandanus jam) toast. Not only does Oriole supply its locally roasted beans to other cafs, it also conducts training classes for baristas-to-be, so this is definitely the place for coffee enthusiasts to pick up tools of the tradecheck out its Facebook page for the latest updates. 10/10A Jiak Chuan Rd.; 65/6224-9131; oriolecoffee.com; coffee and snacks for two S$18.n Jewel cOffeeOccupying a brightly lit storefront in the Raffles Place CBD, Jewel Coffee has become a daily go-to for

the areas executives since it arrived on the scene last June. Former corporate banker turned caf founder Adrian Khong decorated the 84-square-meter space with blackboards bearing explanatory sketches and a blonde-wood counter crowned with a cherry-red COFFEE sign. Barista Shin Hao operates the small arsenal of high-end gadgetrythe manual La Marzocco Strada espresso machine and the precision-brewing Marco ber Boilerto deliver exquisite cups of joe like the Chemex (a light, filtered brew) and Gibraltar (a double-shot espresso with just a touch of milk). On offer are single-origin beans from locations as diverse as Brazils Fazenda Samambaia, Lintong in

wHATS BREwINg. an artisanal coffee wave is underwaY in singapore, spearheaded bY a new crop of homegrown specialtY shops and a few passionate caffeine addicts. heres where to drop in to get Your own craft cuppas.BYliangXinYi

cOffee culture From top: the light-filled interior of Jewelcoffee; named after a 19th-century Frenchman, loysels toyserves up craft brews; baristas toiling away at maison ikkoku.

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Sumatra and Colombias Huila. One Shenton Way, #01-07; 65/6636-9452; coffee and lunch for two S$30.n lOySelS tOyYounger sister to cult roaster Papa Palheta, Loysels Toynamed

after a 19th century Frenchman who invented the commercial espresso machineis quirky but serious about its beans. Its obscure location in a renovated warehouse, a 10-minute walk from the nearest MRT station, hasnt deterred a loyal followingranging from iPhone-toting hipsters to moms with strollersfrom arriving in droves for their caffeine fix. The high-ceilinged interior is outfitted with a gleaming Synesso Cyncra espresso machine, an elegant gold-and-black roaster and paper bags stuffed with house-roasted beans for sale. Besides espresso drinks made from its

insider cafes


signature Terra Firma blend, this store also offers filtered sets like Brewed Otherwise, a single-origin coffee of the day brewed using a siphon and French press, for the purists. To best enjoy the laid-back charm, sit in the leafy courtyard and order the tasty scrambled eggs and toast to accompany your coffee. 66 Kampong Bugis, Ture, #01-01; 65/6292-2306; loyselstoy.com; coffee and brunch for two S$30.n Open DOOr pOlIcyA trio of Singapores food and wine stalwartsSpa Esprit Group founder Cynthia Chua, Tippling Clubs chef Ryan Clift and 40 Hands owner Harry Groverfront this new addition to the increasingly hip quarter of Tiong Bahru. In the rustic-chic space, with exposed brick walls, mismatched steel chairs, teakwood-planked floors and a glassed-in show kitchen, the Asian-European fare shines (mushroom risotto with truffle crumbs; pork belly with braised quinoa). But what makes this buzzing bistro a cut above the rest is its specialty coffee barrun by Grover and the skilled baristas at 40 Hands, just across the street, doing fresh brews from single-origin beans sourced mainly from a selected group of Australian roasters. Perch at the coffee bar and watch the barista work his magic to conjure up a Cold Dripcoffee brewed and chilled drop-by-drop over a 12-hour cycleserved in a Pyrex flask. 19 Yong Siak St.; 65/6221-9307; odpsingapore.com; dinner and coffee for two S$70.n mAISOn IkkOkuInspired by Tokyos hybrid spaces, two style-savvy couplesJanice Ong and Thomas Song; Shanie Teoh and Franz Chuaset up this caf cum fashion boutique last September, naming it after the Japanese manga Maison Ikkoku. The charming tri-level shop house packs a lot of style within its 370 square meters, ranging from whitewashed brick walls festooned with polished copper pipes and pre-loved wooden dressers to the collection of Japanese menswear labels. Head barista Muhammad Rizuan is often behind the Nuova Simonelli machine on the ground-floor caf, crafting coffee embellished with intricate latte art. After 6 p.m., saunter up to the rooftop bar for another round of drinksthis time alcoholicand soak in the views of the gold-domed Sultan Mosque next door. 20 Kandahar St.; 65/6294-0078; maison-ikkoku.net; coffee and snacks for two S$26.

BIStrO BuZZ From top: outside oriole

coffee roasters in chinatown;

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the coffee bar at open door Policy.

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insider experts

nAturAl hIghS clockwise from top:

bookworm Kobe ho; fresh produce

at mapopo community Farm; hit the road caf;

noodles at sun Kee; view of Peng chau.

THE Cool HUNTERS. designers and lifestYle aficionados offer their own takes on what to eat, buY, see and do in five asian cities

citYontheslowcitY: honG KonGgUide: KoBe ho, BooKshoP manaGer

If your image of Hong Kong is that of a relentlessly fast-paced city, you should talk to Kobe Ho. There are so many places in Hong Kong to go and live another kind of lifestyle, says the 30-year-old manager of ACO, the citys best-curatedand most relaxedbookstore-caf. Organic farms, quiet island villages, upstairs coffee shops, family-run businessesthese are the defining characteristics of a Hong Kong being rediscovered by a new generation of urbanites like Ho. In a city increasingly dominated by luxury brands and shopping malls, its not a mainstream way of living, and thats exactly the point. Its small and intimate, the kind of life where you grow your own vegetables, says Ho. Below, some of her top spots to experience another kind of Hong Kong.christopher dewolf

slowfood,smartreadshoused in the Foo tak Building, a vertical artists village, aco (1/F, 365 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai; 852/2893-4808; aco.hk) has an eclectic array of literature and books on social science, philosophy and history. i dont look for balance, i look for variety, says ho. Grab something to readthe selection is mainly in englishand take a seat next to the front window, where you can nosh on dishes made with locally grown organic ingredients.

hongkongtasteafter nearly dying out in the 80s and 90s, local farming is making a comeback. mapopocommunityfarm (Ma Shi Po Village, Fanling; 852/6121-8961; mapopo.wordpress.com) grows everything from crunchy choi sum to sweet tomatoes. visit on Wednesday and sunday to buy fresh fruit and vegetables; there are also regular tours and farming workshops.

UPstairsescaPehigh above the teeming streets of causeway Bay, hittheroadcaf (15/F, 26 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay; 852/2882-9522; dinner for two HK$200) describes

itself as the slowest caf in hong Kong. the design is subdued, the conversation relaxed and the menu well-stocked with comfort foodtry the apple crumble.

cartnoodlesit's easy to find a shop selling che jai mien, or cart noodles, where you can build your own soup with a choice of ingredients like egg noodles, beef brisket, pig intestines and plenty of others. But finding one like sunkee(49B Tang Lung St., Causeway Bay; 852/2573-5438; lunch for two HK$80) is another matter altogether. With most cart noodles, its cheap stuff to fill up your stomach, but the ingredients at sun Kee are much better quality, says ho.

islandescaPeho lives on Pengchau (Central Ferry Pier 6; round-trip journey HK$53.60) where a century-old fishing community is now home to people looking for a more laid-back life. the ferry from the city is a calming-down process, says ho. she recommends wandering the car-free lanes, chilling out by the water and indulging in some fresh seafood. its only 30 minutes from central, but the island is like another world.

Photographed by Christopher DeWolf


PioneeringcommUnitYcitY: BanGKoKgUide: somraK sila, GallerY oWner

In a place where supermalls and innocuous, state-sponsored performance reign supreme, Somrak Sila is galvanizing independent community art. When she returned from an arts administration program in London six years ago, she struggled to generate funding in her hometown. And then she thought, Im going to do it myself.

And she has. After the April 2010 opening of her renovated shop house wtfgalleryandcaf (wtfbangkok.com), where the eclectic exhibitionsand the cocktails and Iberian-style small platespack the house, she launched opposite (oppositebangkok.com), an event space that hosts dance parties, poetry readings and pop-up restaurants.

But theres plenty else to love about Bangkok, according to Sila. To her, Chatuchak, the disorganized but well-stocked weekend market, in particular, embodies the city: That is Thailandcreativity and entrepreneurship.

But comparing her ventures to Chatuchak, she makes one important distinction. Whereas the market vendors tailor their offerings to customer trends, Sila goes the other way. I think: This is good. Maybe my audience will follow me. Here are some of her favorite spots in the city.mrigaa sethi

gettingfreshWhile not the cheapest wet market in Bangkok, ortorkor (Kamphaengphet Rd., opposite Chatuchak market) is the cleanest and has some of the freshest produce. and if you dont cook, sila says, even the ready-to-eat meals there are delicious.

dcorinsPirationthe huge and precariously stacked furniture store Papaya (Lad Phrao Soi 55/2; 66-2/933-0661) stocks everything from 1970s plastic chairs to louis Xiv reproductions. they make their money from rentals to television shows, so if you want to buy, they throw out a ridiculous price, sila warns. But come back, and the price may be totally different.

artfUlBrUnchim always tempted to have a glass of wine there, sila says about gastro1/6 (RMA Institute, Soi Sainamthip 2, Sukhumvit Soi 22; 66-80/603-6421;

brunch for two Bt1,000), an outdoor, foliage-filled caf and art gallery. its a rare place in the city for quality poached eggs and spanish tortilla.

go-togallerYWith a name that means mosquitos butt, tootYunggallery (19 Prachathipathai Rd.; 66-84/914-5499) is neither commercial nor academic. they just opened it for the community, as a place to hang out, sila says. the art work tends to be quite controversial and different. it also has a caf, a library and live music.

vintagewardroBetheres a row of cool shops near happy monday bar, sila says. shes referring to (Un)fashion, wasvwerevwill and vtg, three second-hand stores that stock old edition, brand name boots, bags and clothes. theyre well-curated and in good condition. it feels like youre in Williamsburg. Corner of Ekamai Soi 10.

InDIe cIty clockwise from above: vintage wares at was v were v will; a poetry reading at opposite; the mistmatched tables at gastro 1/6; tortilla with serrano ham at gastro 1/6. top: somrak sila.

Photographed by Christopher Wise

insider experts


retrocaPitalcitY:Kuala lumPurgUide:JosePh Foo, desiGn consultant

Creative director Joseph Foo is a passionate preserver of the arts. As well as his day job at design consultancy 3nity, he has judged at international advertising competitions like the Cannes Lion in France and Denmarks Creative Circle Awards, while his cultural pursuits all sport a clear esoteric element. He has been involved in art installations and exhibitions like Art4Soul and Man&God, both of which span culture and religion by utilizing thought-provoking design as a catalyst for spiritual and social renewal. Up next: Foos most ambitious endeavor to datethe transformation of a 75-year-old printing press situated in a heritage building on Malaccas antique store-lined Jonker Street. Its a piece of Malaysias history, one that still operates the oldest printing methods, the letterpress. We are reviving the trade, and transforming the space into a living museum, he says. Below, he shares his top Kuala Lumpur picks for arts, culture and more.mark lean

BreakfastnookFoo often drops by PlanB (G5, Ground Floor, Bangsar Village 1, Jln. Telawi 1, Bangsar Baru; 60-3/2287-2630; brunch for two RM60) for the gourmet coffees and aussie-style big breakfasts. as the caf is often packed, grab a table early in the morning.

workinglUnchesFor informal work meetings, Foo frequents the 84-year-old Yutkeerestaurant(35, Jln. Dang Wangi; 60-3/2698-8108; breakfast for two RM10), a hainanese coffee shop renowned for its buttered toast bread and kaya, a traditional jam made from eggs, coconut milk and caramelized sugar. dont miss the roti babi, a delicacy made with deep-fried white bread stuffed with sauted onions and thin shreds of pork.

actingalfrescotheactorsstudio (50 Jln. Sultan Ismail; 60-3/2144-2009; theactorsstudio.com.my) impresses with its dazzling rooftop garden setting. Foo is a fan of the studios new location in the heart of the city, which allows more people to access the theater scene.

artYgetawaYthekualalumpurPerformingartscentre(Jln. Strachan, Sentul; 60-3/4047-9000; klpac.org) is a spot to appreciate greenery and shade offered by the trees. Foo says, my kids love the wide expansesits a quick getaway from the city.

Pagodateesin chinatown, if you venture from the tourist spots, there are quaint provision stores selling white Pagoda t-shirts, worn by chinese storekeepers. theyre ideal for lounging, says Foo, and look best when matched with Japanese selvage denimmixing old and new.

green AnD ArtyFrom top: designer Joseph Foo; leafy

surroundings at the KlPac; the rooftop

garden at the actors studio; a full house at

restaurant Plan B.

Photographed by Kevin Miller

insider experts

52 march 2012 | travelandleisureasia.com Photographed by Garett M. Clarke

BetterlivingBYdesigncitY: taiPeigUide: Grace WanG, liFestYle doYenne

Grace Wang got her start as an interior designer before taking over leisure and lifestyle brand VVG more than a decade ago. Known for combining tasteful interiors and tasty cuisine, Wangs discerning palate has made VVG outlets destination eateries for locals and travelers alike. Good living is not one dimensional, Grace says, and so VVG has evolved from its beginnings as a bistro to include fine dining, cafs, bakeries, and urban bed-and-breakfast locations. While Grace takes inspiration from designers and chefs around the world when outfitting the properties she oversees, she loves to witness innovation in her hometown. The people of Taipei are the citys most valuable resource. There is a kind-heartedness here that makes it easy to connect, and the people are passionate about extending hospitality. Here are some design-driven locations Grace recommends in Taipei.john murn

deePsPacesFamed hotel designer ray chen has curated the Palaisdechinehotel (3 Section 1, Chengde Rd.; 886-2/2181-9999; palaisdechinehotel.com), blending modern French and asian motifs. From the lobbies to the dining rooms to the executive salon, the hotel is a patchwork of secluded enclaves.

soakitUP Built around a volcanic geothermal hot spring, villa32 (32 Zhongshan Rd.,Beitou; 886-2/6611-8888; villa32.com) draws heavily on its natural environment to create open, invigorating spaces in the busy northern district of Beitou. For the complete relaxation experience, indulge in a full range of spa offeringsfrom chinese meridian therapy to mother-to-be treatments. dont miss guest appearances in the restaurant by michelin star-winning chefs.

UrBanretreat shi-Yang (7, Lane 350, Sec 3, Xi Wan Rd., XiZhi City; 886-2/2646-2266; shi-yang.com) has one of taipeis best afternoon tea experiences. nestled among the forests of Xizhi, shi-Yang serves seasonal high mountain teas and the serenity of a mountainside

haven. minimalist, Japanese-influenced design keeps tables secluded, encouraging a commune with nature via the sweeping views of the valley below.

evolveddesignWhat started as a design studio has grown to include a magazine, a caf, a clothing line and stationery. the hand-dyed textiles and heavy canvas bags at Booday (18-1, Lane 25, Nanjing W. Rd.; 886-2/2552-5552 ext.11; mogu.com.tw) are crafted using environmentally considerate techniques and materials that encourage durability and use, giving them a sturdy, handmade look and feel.

totalshoPPing With black chandeliers and crystal fittings contrasted by walls made from the weathered doors of buildings that suffered the fate of chai (to pull down or dismantle) during the modernization old shanghai, the feeling at Undercover (No. 40, Lane 181, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd.; 886-2/2775-3669) is equal parts modern and classic. a flagship store of the tuan tuan group, the boutique features designer clothing labels while the caf serves hardy noodles and earthy coffees.

cASuAl chIc From top: grace wang; the modern facade at villa 32; clothes at undercover; the dining room at Palais de chine hotel.

CNSG-1201-005-CRA-001_EF Lens(Butterfly)T&LMarch 2012.ai 1 1/11/12 5:42 PM

insider experts


PlacestoPlaYthere are really no parks in the city, says croft-cusworth, so when i have visitors i like to go to monas(Indonesian National Monument, Merdeka Square). there are bicycles for rent, nightly light shows and a small deer enclosure. croft-cusworth also likes kampoengmainan,toyvillage (Blok M Square, level 3A). they have slot-car and remote-controlled race tracks and videogame stations. they also hold twice-monthly toy auctions that include everything from plastic figurines to us$100 collectors items.

Bestinmallsim a mall rat. You can just go to hang out at the mall, and this is a hangout culture. We even have a special word for it, nongkrong. croft-cusworth favors Pondokindahmall (Jln. Metro Pondok Indah) and grandindonesia (Jln. M. H. Thamrin No. 1), the latter offering video game arcades and amusement park ride

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