Polymers portfolio
for Skin Care
BASF Personal Care2 BASF Personal Care2
1 | Polymers on the Skin Care Market
2 | BASF Polymer portfolio: Description
3 | Sensory of simplex formulations
4 | Sensory of advanced formulations
BASF Personal Care3
1 | Polymers on the Skin Care Market
2 | BASF Polymer portfolio: Description
3 | Sensory of simplex formulations
4 | Sensory of advanced formulations
BASF Personal Care4
# GNPD hits including polymers and New Launches
Polymers in Skin and Sun care
Global GNPD search on polymer use in Skin and Sun Care (1) (2)
(1) GNPD Global search; Skin Care includes face, body, sun, after sun, cleansing (face tonics, wipes, etc). Does not includes: make-up, deo.
(2) Sun care: Polymers for water resistancy not included in calculation
# GNPD hits
0
5,000
10,000
15,000
20,000
25,000
30,000
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
Launches Launches With polymers inside
High use of polymers in new launches
BASF Personal Care5
Polymers used in Skin and Sun care
Global GNPD search on polymer use in Skin Care and Sun Care(1) (2)
(1) GNPD Global search; Skin Care includes face, body, sun, after sun, cleansing (face tonics, wipes, ..). Does not includes: make-up, deo.
(2) Cellulose Derivatives include several INCIs of cellulose derivatives.
Top 3 INCIs ~75% of total GNPD hits on polymers
# GNPD hits per INCI
# GNPD hits
0
500
1,000
1,500
2,000
2,500
3,000
3,500
4,000
4,500
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Cellulose Derivatives
BASF Personal Care6
„Flexibility“ is the key for polymer success
Why are polymers used so widely?
Polymers are widely used ingredients in Skin Care as they deliver:
stable and predictable viscosity
stability to emulsion
sensory and texturizing effect
This gives the chance to use most effective levels of other ingredients as classical thickeners (Fatty
Alcohols -FAOH-, Waxes, etc.), emollients and emulsifiers to achieve best texture for its consumer.
Used in aqueous or lipohilic phase
Used mainly in O/W emulsion
2 or 3 polymers are often used together in emulsions
Stabilize and/or emulsify lipophilic ingredients
Suitable for cold process production
Advantages
Swells in water under definite pH conditions
Often sensitive to electrolyte contents
Thickening power is generally inverse to
electrolyte tolerance
Limitations
BASF Personal Care7
Med/high polar emollients can be stabilized at high concentration (e.g.: esters)
Low Polar emollients are more difficult to stabilize/emulsify (e.g.: Silicones)
Oil soluble: additional oils to be stabilized
Water soluble: electrolytes interfering with polymer
TiO2: interaction with polymer brings cheese-like texture
Dissociated emulsifiers decrease viscosity as electrolytes
Can be electrolytes which influence viscosity
Often need specific pH range
Often contains electrolytes and influence polymer features or emulsion stability
Can contain electrolytes
Associative polymers interact with lamellar structures increasing viscosity
Polymers interaction
with emulsion components
Interaction with PolymersClass
Emollients
UV Filters
Emulsifiers
Preservatives
Active ingredients
Water
FAOH/Waxes
BASF Personal Care8
pH distribution of 70 formulations in Europe
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
4.5 4.8 5.1 5.4 5.7 6 6.3 6.6 6.9 7.2 7.5 7.8
% of
formulations
What is the pH of market Skin Care
formulations?
Source: Analysis of cosmetic products launched in 2013, international and local brands from France, Italy, Poland, Russia, Spain and Turkey, mass-market and selective premium market
Median: pH 5.8
pH
BASF Personal Care9
1 | Polymers on the Skin Care Market
2 | BASF Polymer portfolio: Description
3 | Sensory of simplex formulations
4 | Sensory of advanced formulations
BASF Personal Care10
OTHER POLYMERS
FOR SKIN CARE
Cosmedia®
Ultragel 300
Cosmedia®
Triple C
Rheocare®
TTA
Rheocare®
C Plus
Rheocare®
XG
Viscosity vs
pH range
Electrolyte
tolerance
Emulsifying
capability
Sensory
profile
BASF polymer portfolio
Topics
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
FOCUS PRODUCTS
Cosmedia®
SP
Luvigel®
EM
Luvigel®
STAR AT 3
Tinovis®
ADE
Tinovis®
GTC (UP)*
Rheocare®
HSP 1180
BASF Personal Care11
Viscosity vs
pH range
Electrolyte
Tolerance
Emulsifying
Capability
Sensory
profile
0
30000
60000
90000
120000
0 2 4 6 8 10
4 Pillars measurement criteria
Viscosity vs pH value
pH
Polymer in water at 1% active matter (a.m.)
Measurement conditions:
Equipment: Brookfield (BRK), RVT, Helipath T types/
10rpm
Temperature: 25°C
Viscosity
(mPa s)
BASF Personal Care12
Electrolyte
Tolerance
Viscosity vs
pH range
Emulsifying
Capability
Sensory
profile
0
30000
60000
90000
120000
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
4 Pillars measurement criteria
Electrolyte tolerance
NaCl
(%)
Polymer in water at 1% a.m.
Step by step + 0.1% NaCl
Measurement conditions:
Equipment: BRK, RVT, Helipath T types/ 10rpm
Viscosity
(mPa s)
BASF Personal Care13
Emulsifying
Capability
Viscosity vs
pH range
Sensory
profile
Electrolyte
Tolerance
4 Pillars measurement criteria
Emulsifying capability
Oil load
(%)
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Polymer in water at variable a.m. depending on relevance
pH selected in plateau range
Step by step + 5% Standardized Emollient phase:
Cetiol® C5 (Coco-Caprylate)
Myritol® 318 (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides)
Cegesoft® PS6 (Olus Oil)
Ratio of 1:1:1
BASF Personal Care14
Sensory
profile
Viscosity vs
pH range
Electrolyte
Tolerance
Emulsifying
Capability
Pillow Talk™ Test Method for polymer in water:
14 trained test persons of the expert panel
(Internal)
Done under supervision of the BASF
«Performance team»
Polymer active matter: variable.
Air-conditioned room
(temperature of 22°C, HR 40%)
100µl polymer dispersion is applied on the
inside of the forearm and distributed
Skin afterfeel sensation (20 s after drying )
was compared with 9 pillows made of
different fabrics
4 Pillars measurement criteria
Pillow Talk™
Hint: plush=soft/powdery/waxy chalky=dry/smooth/soft
Area of Elegance
(Premium)
Area of Gentleness
(Neutral)
Area of Care
(Richness)
0369
12
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
BASF Personal Care15
Viscosity vs
pH range
Electrolyte
Tolerance
Emulsifying
Capability
Sensory
profile
BASF polymer portfolio
Topics
FOCUS PRODUCTS
Cosmedia®
SP
Luvigel®
EM
Luvigel®
STAR AT 3
Tinovis®
ADE
Tinovis®
GTC (UP)*
Rheocare®
HSP 1180
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care16
Cosmedia® SP
Product Profile
Stabilization of Oil Droplets
Gel network
Oil droplets
3D picture by HolotomographyProperties
INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate
Appearance: off-white, free-flowing powder
Active Polymer: > 88%
China compliant: yes
Preservative: none
Anionic pre-neutralized homopolymer
Can be added to water or oil phase
Good thickening
Suitable for cold processing
Emulsifying & suspending capabilities without additional emulsifier
Improves formulation sensorics
Co
sm
ed
ia®
SP
BASF Personal Care17
Electrolyte tolerance Cosmedia® SP (1.0 % a.m.), pH 6.5
0
30,000
60,000
90,000
120,000
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Viscosity vs pH curve Cosmedia® SP (1.0% a.m.)
0
30,000
60,000
90,000
120,000
0 2 4 6 8 10
% Stabilized Oil phase
Viscosity
(mPa s)
Cosmedia® SP
Product Profile
Emulsification capability with standardized emollient
composition:
Cetiol® C5, Myritol® 318, Cegesoft® PS6
(Coco-caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Olus Oil)
25
Cosmedia® SP (1%)
Viscosity
(mPa s)
% NaClpH
Synergies
Co
sm
ed
ia®
SP
BASF Personal Care18
Cosmedia® SP
Sensory Profile
02468
101214
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Area of EleganceSilky
Velvety
Soft
Cosmedia® SP has an elegant afterfeel and delivers silky and velvety
sensory properties without any tackiness
Co
sm
ed
ia®
SP
1.2% Cosmedia® SP
BASF Personal Care19
Exceptional sensorial profile with elegant afterfeel
Emulsifying and suspending capabilities without additional emulsifier
Good thickening
Medium electrolyte tolerance
Cosmedia® SP
Product Summary
Cosmedia® SP provides
Co
sm
ed
ia®
SP
BASF Personal Care20
Luvigel® EM
Product Profile
Lu
vig
el®
EM
Properties
INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Appearance: white W/O emulsion
Active Polymer: 23 – 27%
China compliant: yes
Preservative: none
Anionic pre-neutralized homopolymer
Can be added at any stage of the process
Suitable for cold processing
Thickening power is induced by heating, homogenization or in presence of activator
Inverse emulsion (~50% a.m.)
BASF Personal Care21
Electrolyte tolerance Luvigel® EM (1.0 % a.m.)(1), pH 6.5
0
20,000
40,000
60,000
80,000
100,000
120,000
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4
Viscosity vs pH curve Luvigel® EM (1.0% a.m.)(1)
0
20,000
40,000
60,000
80,000
100,000
120,000
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Emulsifying capability Luvigel® EM (1.5 % a.m.)
Luvigel® EM
Product Profile – plus activator (Cocoglucoside)
(1) Activator is used to induce the thickening, activator= emulsifier, e.g. Cocoglucoside 0.125%
Emulsification capability
with standardized emollient composition:
Cetiol® C5, Myritol® 318, Cegesoft® PS6
(Coco-caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Olus Oil)
% NaClpH
% Stabilized oil phase
Luvigel® EM (1.5 %)(1)
15
Lu
vig
el®
EM
Viscosity
(mPa s)
Viscosity
(mPa s)
BASF Personal Care22
Electrolyte tolerance Luvigel® EM (0.5 % a.m.), pH 6.5
Emulsifying capability Luvigel® EM (0.5 % a.m.)
Viscosity vs pH curve Luvigel® EM (0.5% a.m.)
Viscosity (mPa s)BRK RVT # 6/20 rpm (25°C)
0
20,000
40,000
60,000
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Luvigel® EM
Product Profile – without activator
Emulsification capability
with standardized emollient composition:
Cetiol® C5, Myritol® 318, Cegesoft® PS6
(Coco-caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Olus Oil)
Viscosity (mPa s)BRK RVT # 6/20 rpm (25°C)
0
20,000
40,000
60,000
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
% NaClpH
% Stabilized oil phase
Activator needed
Lu
vig
el®
EM
BASF Personal Care23
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Luvigel® EM has a velvety and soft afterfeel.
Luvigel® EM
Sensory Profile
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
Lu
vig
el®
EM
0.5% a.m. Luvigel® EM (contains 0.5% Caprylic/Capric Trigliceride)
BASF Personal Care24
Luvigel® EM
Product Summary
Luvigel® EM provides
Best quick breaking: Sensory of immediate cooling and freshness
Smooth and moderate elegant afterfeel
Medium thickening power and emulsifying effect
It can give a whiter and shinier aspect to formulationsLu
vig
el®
EM
BASF Personal Care25
Superstructure of connected
micelles of HEUR thickener (hydrophobically modified ethoxylated
urethanes)
Properties
INCI: Polyurethane-39
Appearance: Transparent and viscous liquid
Active polymer: 20%
China compliant: no
Preservative: 1.2% mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Phenylpropanol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol and Tocopherol
Non-ionic aqueous dispersion
Suitable for cold processing
No neutralization or pre-swelling needed
Influence on sensory properties of a formulation
Associative thickener that interacts with structured hydrophobic
ingredients in the formulation
Luvigel® STAR AT 3
Product Profile
Lu
vig
el®
ST
AR
AT
3
BASF Personal Care26
Luvigel® STAR AT 3 has a dry and an inherent waxy afterfeel.
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Luvigel® STAR AT 3
Sensory Profile
Waxy Soft
DryLu
vig
el®
ST
AR
AT
3
0.6% a.m. Luvigel® STAR AT 3
BASF Personal Care27
Tinovis® ADE
Product Profile
Tin
ov
is®
AD
E
Properties
INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, PPG-1 Trideceth-6
Appearance: off-white liquid dispersion
Active Polymer: 50 – 55%
China compliant: yes
Preservative: none
Anionic pre-neutralized homopolymer
Can be added at any stage of the process
Suitable for cold processing
Performing thickener
Emulsifying & suspending capabilities without an additional emulsifier
BASF Personal Care28
Electrolyte tolerance Tinovis® ADE (1.0 % a.m.), pH 6.5
0
20,000
40,000
60,000
80,000
100,000
120,000
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Viscosity vs pH curve Tinovis® ADE (1.0% a.m.)
0
20,000
40,000
60,000
80,000
100,000
120,000
0 2 4 6 8 10 12
Emulsifying capability Tinovis® ADE (0.5 % a.m.)
Emulsification capability
with standardized emollient composition:
Cetiol® C5, Myritol® 318, Cegesoft® PS6
(Coco-caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Olus Oil)
% NaClpH
% Stabilized oil phase
Tinovis® ADE
Product Profile
Tinovis® ADE (0.5 %)
30
Tin
ov
is®
AD
E
Viscosity
(mPa s)
Viscosity
(mPa s)
BASF Personal Care29
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Tinovis® ADE has a very dry and smooth afterfeel
Tinovis® ADE
Sensory Profile
Velvety
Smooth
Dry
Tin
ov
is®
AD
E
0.5% a.m. Tinovis® ADE (contains 0.5% Hydrogenated Polydecene)
BASF Personal Care30
Tinovis® ADE
Product Summary
Tinovis® ADE provides
Highest emulsifying features at low polymer active matter
High thickening power
Thickening properties from pH 5.3
Driest afterfeelTin
ov
is®
AD
E
BASF Personal Care31
Tinovis® GTC (UP)*
Product Profile
Tin
ov
is®
GT
C*
Properties
INCI: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Appearance: off-white liquid emulsion
Active Polymer: 28 – 30%
China compliant: yes
Preservative: 0.6% mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben,
Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben (none in UP version)
Anionic pre-neutralized polymer
Suitable for sprayable formulations
Good thickening
Emulsifying capabilities without additional emulsifier Suspending effect
Forms transparent gels (at pH 6 and above)
Suitable for cold processing
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care32
Electrolyte tolerance Tinovis® GTC* (1.0 % a.m.), pH 6.5
0
20,000
40,000
60,000
80,000
100,000
120,000
0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Viscosity vs pH curve Tinovis® GTC* (1.0% a.m.)
0
20,000
40,000
60,000
80,000
100,000
120,000
0 2 4 6 8 10 12
Tinovis® GTC (UP)*
Product Profile
Emulsifying capability Tinovis® GTC* (1.0 % a.m.)
Emulsification capability
with standardized emollient composition:
Cetiol® C5, Myritol® 318, Cegesoft® PS6
(Coco-caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Olus Oil)
% NaClpH
% Stabilized oil phase
Tinovis® GTC* (1 %)
30
Tin
ov
is®
GT
C*
Viscosity
(mPa s)
Viscosity
(mPa s)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care33
Tinovis® GTC (UP)*
Sensory Profile
Tinovis® GTC* shows a soft afterfeel with residual silky performance
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Silky
Soft
Tin
ov
is®
GT
C*
1.0% a.m. Tinovis® GTC
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care34
Tinovis® GTC* provides
Tinovis® GTC (UP)*
Product Summary
Residual electrolyte tolerance
Soft and silky afterfeel
Good emulsifying properties
Medium thickening features
Suitable for transparent gels with suspending effect
Suitable for sprayable formulations
Tin
ov
is®
GT
C*
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care35
Rheocare® HSP 1180
Product Profile
Rh
eo
care
®H
SP
1180
Properties
INCI: Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid
Appearance: Clear viscous liquid solution
Active Polymer: 14 – 18%
China compliant: yes
Preservative: none
Anionic polymer
Deliver high lubricity
Applicable at a broad pH range
Strong polyelectrolyte with effect on viscosity
Neutralization needed (AMP, NaOH, TEA – Not suitable: Ca(OH)2 or Mg(OH)2)
Sensory modifier – even in low concentrations
BASF Personal Care36
Rheocare® HSP 1180 is a sensory modifier recommended to boost the
lubricity during application and to impart a soft and plush afterfeel
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Rheocare® HSP 1180
Sensory Profile
Soft
Plush
Rh
eo
care
®H
SP
1180
1.0% a.m. Rheocare® HSP 1180
BASF Personal Care37
Summary
Thickening capability vs pH range
(1) Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
(2) Thickening power of Luvigel® Star AT 3 is strictly dependent on formulation composition
pH1 3 5 7 9 11 13
Tinovis® ADE
Luvigel® EM
Luvigel® Star AT 3 (2)
Cosmedia® SP
Tinovis® GTC (1)
Rheocare® HSP 1180
Rheocare® C Plus (Carbomer)
++
+
o
+++
Thickening
capability
BASF Personal Care38
Viscosity vs pH value (1%) in water
Summary
Viscosity vs pH value
Remark: Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel® Star: not applicable in water
Viscosity
(mPa s)
pH0
20000
40000
60000
80000
100000
120000
140000
160000
180000
200000
0 2 4 6 8 10
Rheocare® C Plus (Carbomer) (1%)Cosmedia® SP (1%)
Luvigel® EM (1%) with activator
Tinovis® ADE (1%)
Tinovis® GTC* (1%)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care39
Electrolyte tolerance (different a.m.)
Cosmedia® SP (1%) pH=6.1
Luvigel® EM (1%) with activator pH=6.8
Luvigel® EM (0,5%) without activator pH=6.8
Tinovis® ADE (1%) pH=7.0
Tinovis® GTC* (1%) pH=6.6
Rheocare® C Plus (Carbomer) (1%) pH=5.8
0
20000
40000
60000
80000
100000
120000
140000
160000
180000
200000
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Summary
Electrolyte Tolerance
Remark: Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel® Star: not applicable in water
% NaCl
Viscosity
(mPa s)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care40
Emulsifying capability (different a.m.)
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Summary
Emulsifying Capability
(1) With activator: 0.125% Cocoglucoside
Stabilized
Oil phase (%)
Cosmedia® SP
(1%)
Tinovis® ADE
(0.5%)
Tinovis® GTC*
(1%)
Luvigel® EM
(1.5%) (1)
Rheocare® C Plus
(Carbomer) (1%)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care41
Summary
Product positioning
Recommended solution to
impart a quick breaking to
formulations and a smooth
afterfeel.
Luvigel®
EM
Optimal solution to thicken and
emulsify/stabilize emulsions, usage at
broad pH range. Dry afterfeel. Easy
handling.
Tinovis®
ADE
Associative thickener with a
waxy afterfeel.
Luvigel®
STAR AT 3
Good emulsifying/stabilizing properties
and tolerance to electrolytes. Suitable
for sprayable and transparent
formulations. Silky afterfeel.
Tinovis®
GTC (UP)*
Velvety sensory with elegant
afterfeel. Efficient thickener
and emulsifier/stabilizer.
Cosmedia®
SP
Sensory modifier with lubricious effect
during application and plush afterfeel.
Rheocare®
HSP 1180
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care42
1 | Polymers on the Skin Care Market
2 | BASF Polymer portfolio: Description
3 | Sensory of simplex formulations
4 | Sensory of advanced formulations
BASF Personal Care43
Area of Elegance
(Premium)
Area of Gentleness
(Neutral)
Area of Care
(Richness)
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Pillow Talk™ Test Method for
Simplex and Advanced
Formulations:
30 trained test persons of the
expert panel
Done under supervision of the
BASF Performance team
Air-conditioned room
(temperature of 22°C,
HR 40%)
150µl polymer dispersion is
applied on the inside of the
forearm and distributed there
in 20 big circles
After 3 min the skin afterfeel
was compared to 9 pillows
made of different fabrics
Pillow Talk™ method
Simplex and Advanced Formulations
Hint: plush=soft/powdery/waxy chalky=dry/smooth/ soft
Plush
Waxy
Powdery
Chalky Dry
Smooth
Soft
Velvety
Silky
BASF Personal Care44
Sensory of Simplex Formulations
Formulation overview
Cosmedia® SP + Tinovis® GTC* + 30% emollient phase (“Silky sophistication“ – SC-DE-13-230-170)
Cosmedia® SP + Rheocare® HSP 1180 + 9% emollients (“Soft silk” – SC-DE-13-230-172)
Tinovis® GTC* + 30% emollient phase (“Light comfort” – SC-DE-13-230-135c)
Tinovis® ADE + 30% emollient phase (“Smooth care“ – SC-DE-13-166-11)
Cosmedia® SP and 25% emollient phase (Formulation sample not included in the polymer box)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care45
Sensory of emollient phase (as is)
Emollient Phase done with same
amount of:
Cetiol® C 5 (Coco-Caprylate)
Myritol® 318 (Caprylic/Capric
Triglycerides)
Cegesoft® PS 6 (Olus Oil)
Area of Elegance
(Premium)
Soft
Velvety
Silky
Plush
Waxy
Powdery
Chalky Dry
Smooth
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
BASF Personal Care46
Tinovis® ADE (0.5% a.m.) + 30% emollients (“Smooth care“ – SC-DE-13-166-11)
0
5
10
15
20
25Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Tinovis® ADE (0.5% a.m.)
Emollient phase as is
Sensory of Simplex Formulations
Tinovis® ADE and emollient phase
0
5
10
15
20
25
30Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
02468
101214
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Emulsion based on Tinovis® ADE shows a light and silky afterfeel with
residual waxyness
Silky
Smooth
Waxy Soft
BASF Personal Care47
Tinovis® GTC* (1.0% a.m.) + 30% emollients (“Light comfort” – SC-DE-13-230-
135c)
05
1015202530
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Tinovis® GTC* (1.0% a.m.)
Emollient phase as is
Emulsion based on Tinovis® GTC* has a distinct effect in
the area of Care with residual elegant feel
Sensory of Simplex Formulations
Tinovis® GTC* and emollient phase
0
5
10
15
20
25
30Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
02468
101214
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Plush
Powdery
Velvety
Waxy
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care48
Cosmedia® SP (1.0%) + 25% emollients (SC-DE-13-230-190)(1)
05
1015202530
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Cosmedia® SP (1.2%)
Emollient phase as is
Emulsion stabilized with Cosmedia® SP imparts Care feeling to skin with
considerable velvety and soft afterfeel
Sensory of Simplex Formulations
Cosmedia® SP and emollient phase
(1) Formulation sample not included in the polymer box
05
1015202530
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
02468
101214
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Plush
Powdery
Soft
Velvety
BASF Personal Care49
Cosmedia® SP (0.3%) + Tinovis® GTC* (0.4% a.m.) + 30% emollients (“Silky sophistication“ – SC-DE-13-230-170)
0
5
10
15
20
25
30Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Cosmedia® SP and Emollients
Tinovis® GTC* and emollients
Emulsion stabilized with a combination of Cosmedia® SP and Tinovis®
GTC* delivers a combination of Care and Elegant Feeling
Cosmedia® SP in combination with
Tinovis® GTC* and emollient phase
05
1015202530
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
0
5
10
15
20
25
30Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Plush
Powdery
Velvety
Silky
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care50
Cosmedia® SP (1.2%) + Rheocare® HSP 1180 (0.5% a.m.)+ 9% emollients(“Soft silk” – SC-DE-13-230-172)
05
1015202530
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Cosmedia® SP and Emollients
Rheocare® HSP 1180 in water
(1.0% a.m.)
Emulsion stabilized with combination of Cosmedia® SP and Tinovis® GTC
delivers a combination of Care and Elegant Feeling
Cosmedia® SP in combination with
Rheocare® HSP 1180 and emollient phase
02468
101214
Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Emulsion based on Cosmedia® SP and Rheocare® HSP 1180 is lubricious
during application and the afterfeel is Caring but at the same time Elegant
and Gentle.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
VelvetyPlush
Soft
Smooth
Waxy
BASF Personal Care51
1 | Polymers on the Skin Care Market
2 | BASF Polymer portfolio: Description
3 | Sensory of simplex formulations
4 | Sensory of advanced formulations
BASF Personal Care52
Sensory of Advanced Formulations
Formulation overview
with 3D Sensory (“Luxurious balm“ – SC-FR-14-000-B001)
with Care feeling (“Elegant waxy cream” – SC-FR-14-000-D001)
with Powdery and Velvety feeling (“Powdery soft butter” – SC-FR-14-000-C001)
Cold processable O/W Emulsion
BASF Personal Care53
0
5
10
15
20
25
30Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Area of Care
(Richness)
Highest score in Care area: Waxy feeling due to combination with Luvigel®
EM, Tinovis® GTC* and Dehymuls® PGPH as W/O emulsifier. Chosen
emollients with low cost in use.
Cold processable O/W Emulsion
with Care feeling
„Elegant waxy cream“
SC-FR-14-000-D001
Rheocare® XG 0.20
Tinovis® GTC* 3.00
Dehymuls® PGPH 2.00
Luvigel® EM 2.00
Cetiol® PGL 4.00
Cetiol® AB 4.00
Cetiol® 868 4.00
Plantacare® 818 UP 1.00
Complete formulation
Plush
Waxy
Powdery
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care54
Elegant waxy cream
Preserved with a mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylene Glycol
SC-FR-14-000-D001
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Water, demin. Aqua ad 100
Glycerin Glycerin 2.00 Humectant
Preservative q.s. Preservative
Rheocare® XG (Europe only) Xanthan Gum 0.20 Rheology modifier
B Tinovis® GTC* Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 3.00 Rheology modifier
Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment
C Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Emulsifier (W/O)
Luvigel® EM Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer 2.00 Rheology modifier
Cetiol® PGL Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 4.00 Emollient
Cetiol® AB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.00 Emollient
Cetiol® 868 Ethylhexyl Stearate 4.00 Emollient
D Plantacare® 818 UP Coco-Glucoside 1.00 Emulsifier (O/W)
Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Specifications
pH value (20°C) 6.0 - 6.2
Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TE, helipath; 10 rpm; 20°C) 95 000 - 110 000 mPas
Manufacturing Process
Prepare phase A at room temperature. When phase A is homogeneous disperse Tinovis® GTC in phase A and adjust the pH value. Then add phase C to A+B and directly after add phase
D. Increase stirring rate to enable proper mixing until homogeneous.
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care55
0
5
10
15
20
25
30Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Area of Elegance
(Premium)
Area of Care
(Richness)
The combination of Luvigel® EM, Luvigel® STAR and Dehymuls® PGPH
(W/O emulsifier) imparts a powdery feeling to formulations. Emollients
choice to target lower costs.
„Powdery soft butter“
SC-FR-14-000-C001
Luvigel® STAR AT 3 2.00
Dehymuls® PGPH 2.00
Luvigel® EM 3.00
Cetiol® PGL 4.00
Cetiol® AB 4.00
Cetiol® 868 4.00
Plantacare® 818 UP 1.00
Cold processable O/W Emulsion
with Powdery and Velvety feeling
Complete formulation
Waxy
Powdery
Velvety
BASF Personal Care56
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Water, demin. Aqua ad 100
Glycerin Glycerin 2.00 Humectant
Preservative q.s. Preservative
Luvigel® STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 2.00 Rheology modifier
B Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Emulsifier (W/O)
Luvigel® EM Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer 3.00 Rheology modifier
Cetiol® PGL Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 4.00 Emollient
Cetiol® AB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.00 Emollient
Cetiol® 868 Ethylhexyl Stearate 4.00 Emollient
C Plantacare® 818 UP Coco-Glucoside 1.00 Emulsifier (O/W)
Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Powdery soft butter
Preserved with a mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylene Glycol
SC-FR-14-000-C001
Specifications
pH value (20°C) 6.0 - 6.2
Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TE, helipath; 10 rpm; 20°C) 200 000 - 210 000 mPas
Manufacturing Process
Prepare phase A at room temperature. When phase A is homogeneous disperse phase B in phase A. Then add phase C to A+B. Please note that on addition of phase
C a significant increase in viscosity is to be expected! Increase stirring rate to enable proper mixing until homogeneous.
BASF Personal Care57
0
5
10
15
20
25
30Silky
Velvety
Soft
Smooth
DryChalky
Powdery
Waxy
Plush
Gentleness Area
(Neutral)
The combination of Luvigel® STAR and Emulgade® CM delivers care and
cushion feeling. The velvety afterfeel is related to the emlulsion
component as well as to Cosmedia® SP.
„Luxurious balm“
SC-FR-14-000-B001
Cosmedia® SP 0.60
Luvigel® STAR AT 1.50
Emulgade® CM 10.00
Cetiol® CC 5.00
Cold processable O/W Emulsion
with 3D Sensory
Complete formulation
Area of Elegance
(Premium)
Velvety
Area of Care
(Richness)
Plush
Powdery Smooth
BASF Personal Care58
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
Edeta® BX Powder Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 Complexing agent
Preservative q.s. Preservative
Water, demin. Aqua ad 100
B Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.60 Rheology modifier
C Luvigel® STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 1.50 Rheology modifier
D Emulgade® CM Cetearyl Isononanoate, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol,
Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Ceteareth-12, Cetyl Palmitate
10.00 Emulsion base
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5.00 Emollient
E Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Luxurious balm
Preserved with a mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylene Glycol
SC-FR-14-000-B001
Specifications
pH value (20°C) 5.9 - 6.1
Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle 6; 10 rpm; 20°C) 40 000 - 60 000 mPas
Manufacturing Process
At room temperature, disperse phase B in phase A under stirring during 20 min. When the phase is homogeneous, add phase C. Then add phase D and for finish add phase E.
BASF Personal Care59
DISCLAIMER
All products in the text marked with an ® are trademarks of the BASF group.
This presentation is for information purposes only. In particular, BASF neither assumes the position of a
consultant or advisor nor any liability for the accuracy and/or completeness of the information and/or
recommendations given. Any information or recommendation given may not be complete and / or sufficient to
fully evaluate BASF products and their performance. BASF does not assume any liability or risk involved in
the use of its products as the conditions of use are beyond its control. You are responsible to test all products
as to their characteristics, performance and the suitability for your intended use and to ensure its compliance
with all applicable laws and regulations. BASF expressly disclaims any responsibility for the suitability of the
BASF products for any specific or particular purposes intended by the user.
Nothing in this presentation or in the information given in connection with this presentation, whether in writing,
orally or otherwise, is intended to give, or can be interpreted as giving, any representations and / or warranties
on the characteristics of BASF products, their properties, use and application, their suitability for any specific
or particular purpose, their compliance with laws and regulations and / or rights of third parties.
All information given in or in connection with this presentation shall be deemed confidential and proprietary to
BASF.
BACK-UP SLIDES
BASF Personal Care62
Polymer dispersions for sensory profile
Samples of polymers in water
Concentration of polymer 1 Concentration of polymer 2 pH Value Viscosity* [mPas]
1.2% Cosmedia SP 5.7 82500
2% Luvigel EM 6.2 41000
3% Luvigel STAR AT 3 6.0 < 200
1% Tinovis ADE 6.0 66250
3.33% Tinovis GTC** 6.5 32500
6.26% Rheocare HSP 1180 3.5 400
0.7% Cosmedia SP 3.13% Rheocare HSP 1180 6.2 4200
1.2% Tinovis GTC** 0.3% Cosmedia SP 6.2 8000
3% Luvigel STAR AT 3 0.5% Cosmedia SP 6.2 25000
3% Luvigel EM 2% Luvigel STAR AT 3 6.2 212500
3% Tinovis GTC** 2% Luvigel EM 6.2 200000
* BRK RVF, TC-Spindle, 4 rpm, HelipathRemark: samples were preserved with Euxyl K 100
** Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care63
Smooth Care
SC-DE-13-166-11
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Tinovis® ADE Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene,
PPG-1 Trideceth-6
1.00 Rheology modifier
Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100
B Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
C Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 10.00 Emollient
Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10.00 Emollient
Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 10.00 Emollient
D Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Preservative q.s. Preservative
E Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment
Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone)
Specifications
pH value (23°C) 5.6
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C) 187500 mPas
Manufacturing Process
Mix components listed under A while stirring. When the solution is homogeneous add phase B. Mix the oil phase C separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add
phase D one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to ~5.5
BASF Personal Care64
Light Comfort
SC-DE-13-230-135c
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Tinovis® GTC* Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 3.33 Rheology modifier
Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100
B Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment
C Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
D Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 10.00 Emollient
Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10.00 Emollient
Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 10.00 Emollient
E Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Preservative q.s. Preservative
Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone)
Specifications
pH value (23°C) 5.9
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TC, helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C) 82500 mPas
Manufacturing Process
Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Mix the oil phase D
separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase E one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to ~6.0
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care65
Silky Sophistication
SC-DE-13-230-170
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100
Tinovis® GTC* Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 1.20 Rheology modifier
B Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment
C Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 Stabilizer
D Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
E Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 10.00 Emollient
Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10.00 Emollient
Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 10.00 Emollient
F Preservative q.s. Preservative
Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone)
Specifications
pH value (23°C) 6.5
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TC, helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C) 42500 mPas
Manufacturing Process
Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Add phase D. Mix the oil
phase E separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase F one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to 6.3 - 6.7
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care66
Soft Silk
SC-DE-13-230-172
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100
Rheocare® HSP-1180 Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid 3.12 Rheology modifier
B Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment
C Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.20 Stabilizer
D Glycerin Glycerin 2.00 Humectant
E Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 3.00 Emollient
Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 Emollient
Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 3.00 Emollient
F Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Preservative q.s. Preservative
Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone)
Specifications
pH value (23°C) 6.3
Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TC, helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C) 35000 mPas
Manufacturing Process
Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Add phase D. Mix the oil
phase E separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase F one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to 6.0 - 6.5
BASF Personal Care67
Delicious Buttergel
SC-DE-12-139-1
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Water, demin. Aqua 85.30
Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.20 Rheology modifier
B Cegesoft® SH Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter 5.00 Consistency agent
Cegesoft® VP Olus oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Candelilla cera
[EU], Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil,
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
4.00 Emollient
Cetiol® SB 45 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 4.00 Emollient
Cegesoft® GPO Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil 0.50 Emollient
C Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Preservative q.s. Preservative
BASF Personal Care68
Age Prevention Lotion
SWOP concept
SC-DE-13-173-3
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.00 Emulsifier (W/O)
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 4.00 Emollient
Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 4.00 Emollient
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 6.00 Emollient
Cegesoft® PFO Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil 3.00 Emollient
B Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100
Glycerin Glycerin 5.00 Humectant
Rheocare® XG (Europe only) Xanthan Gum 0.05 Stabilizer
Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.80 Stabilizer
C Plantapon® LGC SORB Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (and) Lauryl
Glucoside
1.50 Surfactant
D Litchiderm™ LS 9704 Butylene Glycol, Litchi Chinensis Extract 3.00 Active ingredient
Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment
Preservative q.s. Preservative
Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
BASF Personal Care69
From Cream To Oil
Surprise, Surprise !
SC-FR-12-001-F011
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100
B Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 Rheology modifier
C Eumulgin® BA 25 Beheneth-25 5.00 Emulsifier (O/W)
Lanette® 22 Behenyl Alcohol 2.00 Consistency agent
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 15.00 Emollient
Isopropyl Palmitate Isopropyl Palmitate 15.00 Emollient
Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 15.00 Emollient
D Sqisandryl™ LS 9905 Schizandra Chinensis Fruit Extract 0.30 Active ingredient
Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance
Covi-ox® T 90 C Tocopherol 0.10 Antioxidant
E preservative q.s. Preservative
BASF Personal Care70
Huile Velours Lisse Eclat
Cream-to-Oil
SC-FR-13-005-A008
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Water, demin. Aqua 57.20
Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
Phenonip XB
(Clariant)
Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben,
Propylparaben
1.00 Preservative
B Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.70 Rheology modifier
C Eumulgin® BA 25 Beheneth-25 5.00 Emulsifier (O/W)
Lanette® 22 Behenyl Alcohol 2.00 Consistency agent
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 10.00 Emollient
Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 10.00 Emollient
Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 10.00 Emollient
D Fragrance Parfum 0.10 Fragrance
E X-Pressin™ C Aqua, Papain, Carbomer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol,
Algin
1.00 Active ingredient
BASF Personal Care71
Perfect Night
Serum-to-Oil Moisturizer
SC-FR-13-013-A018c
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Water, demin. Aqua 44.87
Glycerin Glycerin 5.00 Humectant
Euxyl K 320
(Schülke)
Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylene
Glycol
1.00 Preservative
Rheocare® TTA Acrylates Copolymer 3.00 Rheology modifier
B Eumulgin® BA 25 Beheneth-25 5.00 Emulsifier (O/W)
Cetiol® RLF Caprylyl Caprylate/ Caprate 10.00 Emollient
Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 15.00 Emollient
Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 10.00 Emollient
C Sodium Hydroxide (25% solution) Sodium Hydroxide 0.13 pH Adjustment
D Perfume Parfum 0.50 Fragrance
E Phytokine™ A00287 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene
Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol
2.50 Active ingredient
Neurobiox™ A00112 Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Achillea
Millefolium Extract, Xanthan Gum
3.00 Active ingredient
BASF Personal Care72
Dry Touch High Efficiency Index
Cream Gel SPF 30
UV-DE-13-022-8-1
Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function
A Eumulgin® B 2 Ceteareth-20 2.00 Emulsifier (O/W)
Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 10.00 Emollient
Cetiol® B Dibutyl Adipate 5.00 Emollient
Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 7.00 Emollient
Uvinul® T 150 Ethylhexyl Triazone 1.50 UV-B filter
Tinosorb® S Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 1.70 Broad spectrum UV filter
B Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100
Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant
Keltrol CG-RD
(CP Kelco)
Xanthan Gum 0.30 Stabilizer
Edeta® BD Disodium EDTA 0.20 Complexing agent
C Tinovis® ADE Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene,
PPG-1 Trideceth-6
1.20 Rheology modifier
D Xiameter PMX-0246 Cyclohexasiloxane
(Dow Corning)
Cyclohexasiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane 4.00 Emollient
KSG-16
(Shin Etsu Chemical)
Dimethicone, Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone
Crosspolymer
2.00 Skin feel modifier
E Tinosorb® A2B Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (nano), Aqua, Decyl Glucoside,
Butylene Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Xanthan Gum
6.00 UV-B / A II filter
Tinosorb® M Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
(nano), Aqua, Decyl Glucoside, Propylene Glycol,
Xanthan Gum
6.00 Broad spectrum UV filter
Preservative q.s. Preservative
BASF Personal Care73
Effect of Rheocare® C Plus and
Cosmedia® SP synergy on viscosity
0
20000
40000
60000
80000
100000
120000
3.00 5.00 7.00 9.00 11.00 13.00pH
Effect of Rheocare® C Plus and
Cosmedia® SP synergy on viscosity with oils
Performance improvement of Cosmedia® SP at lower pH by addition of
small amounts of Rheocare® C Plus(*)
Synergies of Cosmedia® SP: pH Shift
Rheocare® C Plus (Carbomer)
0
40000
80000
120000
160000
200000
1% Cosmedia® SP +20% oil
1% Cosmedia® SP +20% oil
1% C. SP + 0.1%Rheocare® C Plus + 20%
oilCosmedia® SP 0,5%
Cosmedia® SP + 0,1% Rheocare® C Plus
Cosmedia® SP + 0,2% Rheocare® C Plus
Cosmedia® SP + 0,3% Rheocare® C Plus
Different spindles form standardized tests (TE, 4 rpm)
Viscosity ( mPa s)
BKD RVT #TE 4 rpm (25°C)
Viscosity ( mPa s)
BKD RVT #TE 4 rpm (25°C)
pH 6 pH 5,3
Back To Cosmedia® SP
(*) The stability can be strongly influenced by oil type
BASF Personal Care74
Effect of Rheocare® XG and Cosmedia® SP
synergy on viscosity
Effect of Rheocare® XG and Cosmedia® SP
synergy on viscosity
Cosmedia® SP & Rheocare® XG synergy help to stabilize oils and viscosity
in presence of electrolytes(*)
Viscosity ( mPa s)
BKD RVT #TE 4 rpm (25°C)
Viscosity ( mPa s)
BKD RVT #TE 4 rpm (25°C)
% Rheocare® XG + 1% Cosmedia® SP
Synergies of Cosmedia®SP: Salt Tolerance
Rheocare® XG (Xanthan Gum)
0
40000
80000
120000
160000
200000
1% Cosmedia® SP +20% Oil
1% Cosmedia® SP +20% Oil
1% C.® SP + 1%Rheocare® XG + 20% Oil
Without NaCl With 0.3% NaCl
Different spindles form standardized tests (TE, 4 rpm)Back To Cosmedia® SP
(*) The stability can be strongly influenced by oil type
0
20000
40000
60000
80000
100000
120000
0.00 0.25 0.50 0.75 1.00
Without NaCl With 0.15% NaCl With 0.30% NaCl
BASF Personal Care75
Viscosity vs pH Curve (1%)
0
20000
40000
60000
80000
100000
120000
140000
160000
180000
200000
0 2 4 6 8 10
Cosmedia® SP (1%) Luvigel® EM (1%) with Activator
Tinovis® ADE (1%) Tinovis® GTC (1%)
Carbomer (1%) Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (1%) Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (0.4%)
Viscosity
(mPa s)
Summary
Viscosity vs pH Curve
(1) Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel ® Star: not applicable
pH
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care76
Electrolyte tolerance (different a.m.)
0
20000
40000
60000
80000
100000
120000
140000
160000
180000
200000
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6
Cosmedia® SP 1% pH=6,09 Luvigel® EM 1% with activator pH=6,8
Luvigel® EM 0,5% Without activator pH=6,8 Tinovis® ADE 1% am pH=7,01
Tinovis® GTC 1%am pH=6,6 Carbomer (1%) pH=5.76
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0,4% pH=5,89
Viscosity
(mPa s)
Summary
Electrolyte Tolerance
(1) Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel® Star: not applicable
% NaCl
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care77
Emulsifying capability (different a.m.)Stabilized Oil
phase (%)
Summary
Emulsifying Capability
(1) With activator: 0.125% Cocoglucoside
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
Carbomer (1%)
Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 (1%)
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (3) (0,4%)
Cosmedia® SP (1%)
Luvigel® EM (1,5%) (1)
Tinovis ® ADE (0,5%)
Tinovis® GTC* (1%)
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
BASF Personal Care78
Product Information Performance Application
Trade Name INCI Name Acti
ve
Po
lym
er
%
Ph
ysic
al
form
(1)
Typ
e
Reco
mm
en
de
d
do
sag
e a
s
is %
Co
nta
ins
EO
/PO
Eth
an
ol
Co
mp
ati
bil
ity
pH
ap
pli
cati
on
ran
ge
Salt
To
lera
nc
e
Sen
so
ry P
rofi
le
Th
icken
ing
Em
uls
ifyin
g /
Sta
bil
izin
g
Cle
ar
Gels
Fa
ce &
Bo
dy
Su
n C
are
AP
/Deo
Remarks
Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate >88 P Anionic 0.2 – 1 No 6 – 12 Improve cushion
Luvigel® EMCaprylic/Capric Triglycerides (and)
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer~25 L Anionic 0.5 – 3 Yes 6 – 9 o Quick breaking
Luvigel® STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 ~20 LNon-
Ionic0.5 – 5 Yes 2 – 12 o
Associative
thickener
Tinovis® ADESodium Acrylates Copolymer (and)
Hydrogenated Polydecene (and)
PPG-1 Trideceth-6
~55 L Anionic 0.5 – 2 Yes 5 – 12 Easy handling
Tinovis® GTC (UP)*Acrylates/Beheneth-25
Methacrylate Copolymer ~30 L Anionic 1 – 4 Yes 6 – 12
Sprays and
transparent gels
Rheocare® HSP1180Polyacrylamidomethylpropane
Sulfonic Acid~15 L Anionic 1 – 5 No 2 – 12 o o o Improves lubricity
Rheocare® C Plus Carbomer >97 P Anionic 0.1 – 1 No 4 – 12 o High
transparency
Rheocare® TTA Acrylates Coplymer ~30 L Anionic 0.5 – 4 No 6,5 – 12 Suitable for
serums
Rheocare® XG (2) Xanthan Gum >97 P Anionic 0.1 – 1 No 3 – 10 o High
transparency
Cosmedia® Triple CPolyquaternium-37 (and) Dicaprylyl
Carbonate (and) Lauryl Glucoside~50 L Cationic 0.5 – 3 No 3 – 11
Cosmedia® Ultragel 300 Polyquaternium-37 > 92 P Cationic 0.5 – 1.5 No 3 – 11
Polymers for Skin Care applications
(1) Physical form: P = Powder L = Liquid
(2) Available in Europe only
Version: Jan 2015 Performance: o None Good Very Good Excellent
* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.
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