Polymers portfolio for Skin Care

Polymers portfolio

for Skin Care

BASF Personal Care2 BASF Personal Care2

1 | Polymers on the Skin Care Market

2 | BASF Polymer portfolio: Description

3 | Sensory of simplex formulations

4 | Sensory of advanced formulations

BASF Personal Care3





BASF Personal Care4

# GNPD hits including polymers and New Launches

Polymers in Skin and Sun care

Global GNPD search on polymer use in Skin and Sun Care (1) (2)

(1) GNPD Global search; Skin Care includes face, body, sun, after sun, cleansing (face tonics, wipes, etc). Does not includes: make-up, deo.

(2) Sun care: Polymers for water resistancy not included in calculation

# GNPD hits

0

5,000

10,000

15,000

20,000

25,000

30,000

2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

Launches Launches With polymers inside

High use of polymers in new launches

BASF Personal Care5

Polymers used in Skin and Sun care

Global GNPD search on polymer use in Skin Care and Sun Care(1) (2)

(1) GNPD Global search; Skin Care includes face, body, sun, after sun, cleansing (face tonics, wipes, ..). Does not includes: make-up, deo.

(2) Cellulose Derivatives include several INCIs of cellulose derivatives.

Top 3 INCIs ~75% of total GNPD hits on polymers

# GNPD hits per INCI

# GNPD hits

0

500

1,000

1,500

2,000

2,500

3,000

3,500

4,000

4,500

2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Cellulose Derivatives

BASF Personal Care6

„Flexibility“ is the key for polymer success

Why are polymers used so widely?

Polymers are widely used ingredients in Skin Care as they deliver:

stable and predictable viscosity

stability to emulsion

sensory and texturizing effect

This gives the chance to use most effective levels of other ingredients as classical thickeners (Fatty

Alcohols -FAOH-, Waxes, etc.), emollients and emulsifiers to achieve best texture for its consumer.

Used in aqueous or lipohilic phase

Used mainly in O/W emulsion

2 or 3 polymers are often used together in emulsions

Stabilize and/or emulsify lipophilic ingredients

Suitable for cold process production

Advantages

Swells in water under definite pH conditions

Often sensitive to electrolyte contents

Thickening power is generally inverse to

electrolyte tolerance

Limitations

BASF Personal Care7

Med/high polar emollients can be stabilized at high concentration (e.g.: esters)

Low Polar emollients are more difficult to stabilize/emulsify (e.g.: Silicones)

Oil soluble: additional oils to be stabilized

Water soluble: electrolytes interfering with polymer

TiO2: interaction with polymer brings cheese-like texture

Dissociated emulsifiers decrease viscosity as electrolytes

Can be electrolytes which influence viscosity

Often need specific pH range

Often contains electrolytes and influence polymer features or emulsion stability

Can contain electrolytes

Associative polymers interact with lamellar structures increasing viscosity

Polymers interaction

with emulsion components

Interaction with PolymersClass

Emollients

UV Filters

Emulsifiers

Preservatives

Active ingredients

Water

FAOH/Waxes

BASF Personal Care8

pH distribution of 70 formulations in Europe

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

4.5 4.8 5.1 5.4 5.7 6 6.3 6.6 6.9 7.2 7.5 7.8

% of

formulations

What is the pH of market Skin Care

formulations?

Source: Analysis of cosmetic products launched in 2013, international and local brands from France, Italy, Poland, Russia, Spain and Turkey, mass-market and selective premium market

Median: pH 5.8

pH

BASF Personal Care9





BASF Personal Care10

OTHER POLYMERS

FOR SKIN CARE

Cosmedia®

Ultragel 300

Cosmedia®

Triple C

Rheocare®

TTA

Rheocare®

C Plus

Rheocare®

XG

Viscosity vs

pH range

Electrolyte

tolerance

Emulsifying

capability

Sensory

profile

BASF polymer portfolio

Topics

* Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.

FOCUS PRODUCTS

Cosmedia®

SP

Luvigel®

EM

Luvigel®

STAR AT 3

Tinovis®

ADE

Tinovis®

GTC (UP)*

Rheocare®

HSP 1180


Viscosity vs

pH range

Electrolyte

Tolerance

Emulsifying

Capability

Sensory

profile

0

30000

60000

90000

120000

0 2 4 6 8 10

4 Pillars measurement criteria

Viscosity vs pH value

pH

Polymer in water at 1% active matter (a.m.)

Measurement conditions:

Equipment: Brookfield (BRK), RVT, Helipath T types/

10rpm

Temperature: 25°C

Viscosity

(mPa s)


Electrolyte

Tolerance

Viscosity vs

pH range

Emulsifying

Capability

Sensory

profile

0

30000

60000

90000

120000

0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5


Electrolyte tolerance

NaCl

(%)

Polymer in water at 1% a.m.

Step by step + 0.1% NaCl

Measurement conditions:

Equipment: BRK, RVT, Helipath T types/ 10rpm

Viscosity

(mPa s)


Emulsifying

Capability

Viscosity vs

pH range

Sensory

profile

Electrolyte

Tolerance


Emulsifying capability

Oil load

(%)

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

Polymer in water at variable a.m. depending on relevance

pH selected in plateau range

Step by step + 5% Standardized Emollient phase:

Cetiol® C5 (Coco-Caprylate)

Myritol® 318 (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides)

Cegesoft® PS6 (Olus Oil)

Ratio of 1:1:1


Sensory

profile

Viscosity vs

pH range

Electrolyte

Tolerance

Emulsifying

Capability

Pillow Talk™ Test Method for polymer in water:

14 trained test persons of the expert panel

(Internal)

Done under supervision of the BASF

«Performance team»

Polymer active matter: variable.

Air-conditioned room

(temperature of 22°C, HR 40%)

100µl polymer dispersion is applied on the

inside of the forearm and distributed

Skin afterfeel sensation (20 s after drying )

was compared with 9 pillows made of

different fabrics


Pillow Talk™

Hint: plush=soft/powdery/waxy chalky=dry/smooth/soft

Area of Elegance

(Premium)

Area of Gentleness

(Neutral)

Area of Care

(Richness)

0369

12

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush


Viscosity vs

pH range

Electrolyte

Tolerance

Emulsifying

Capability

Sensory

profile

BASF polymer portfolio

Topics

FOCUS PRODUCTS

Cosmedia®

SP

Luvigel®

EM

Luvigel®

STAR AT 3

Tinovis®

ADE

Tinovis®

GTC (UP)*

Rheocare®

HSP 1180



Cosmedia® SP

Product Profile

Stabilization of Oil Droplets

Gel network

Oil droplets

3D picture by HolotomographyProperties

INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate

Appearance: off-white, free-flowing powder

Active Polymer: > 88%

China compliant: yes

Preservative: none

Anionic pre-neutralized homopolymer

Can be added to water or oil phase

Good thickening

Suitable for cold processing

Emulsifying & suspending capabilities without additional emulsifier

Improves formulation sensorics

Co

sm

ed

ia®

SP


Electrolyte tolerance Cosmedia® SP (1.0 % a.m.), pH 6.5

0

30,000

60,000

90,000

120,000

0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6

Viscosity vs pH curve Cosmedia® SP (1.0% a.m.)

0

30,000

60,000

90,000

120,000

0 2 4 6 8 10

% Stabilized Oil phase

Viscosity

(mPa s)

Cosmedia® SP

Product Profile

Emulsification capability with standardized emollient

composition:

Cetiol® C5, Myritol® 318, Cegesoft® PS6

(Coco-caprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Olus Oil)

25

Cosmedia® SP (1%)

Viscosity

(mPa s)

% NaClpH

Synergies

Co

sm

ed

ia®

SP


Cosmedia® SP

Sensory Profile

02468

101214

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Area of EleganceSilky

Velvety

Soft

Cosmedia® SP has an elegant afterfeel and delivers silky and velvety

sensory properties without any tackiness

Co

sm

ed

ia®

SP

1.2% Cosmedia® SP


Exceptional sensorial profile with elegant afterfeel

Emulsifying and suspending capabilities without additional emulsifier

Good thickening

Medium electrolyte tolerance

Cosmedia® SP

Product Summary

Cosmedia® SP provides

Co

sm

ed

ia®

SP


Luvigel® EM

Product Profile

Lu

vig

el®

EM

Properties

INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Appearance: white W/O emulsion

Active Polymer: 23 – 27%


Preservative: none


Can be added at any stage of the process


Thickening power is induced by heating, homogenization or in presence of activator

Inverse emulsion (~50% a.m.)


Electrolyte tolerance Luvigel® EM (1.0 % a.m.)(1), pH 6.5

0

20,000

40,000

60,000

80,000

100,000

120,000

0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4

Viscosity vs pH curve Luvigel® EM (1.0% a.m.)(1)

0

20,000

40,000

60,000

80,000

100,000

120,000

3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Emulsifying capability Luvigel® EM (1.5 % a.m.)

Luvigel® EM

Product Profile – plus activator (Cocoglucoside)

(1) Activator is used to induce the thickening, activator= emulsifier, e.g. Cocoglucoside 0.125%

Emulsification capability

with standardized emollient composition:



% NaClpH

% Stabilized oil phase

Luvigel® EM (1.5 %)(1)

15

Lu

vig

el®

EM

Viscosity

(mPa s)

Viscosity

(mPa s)


Electrolyte tolerance Luvigel® EM (0.5 % a.m.), pH 6.5

Emulsifying capability Luvigel® EM (0.5 % a.m.)

Viscosity vs pH curve Luvigel® EM (0.5% a.m.)

Viscosity (mPa s)BRK RVT # 6/20 rpm (25°C)

0

20,000

40,000

60,000

3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Luvigel® EM

Product Profile – without activator





Viscosity (mPa s)BRK RVT # 6/20 rpm (25°C)

0

20,000

40,000

60,000

0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5

% NaClpH


Activator needed

Lu

vig

el®

EM


0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Luvigel® EM has a velvety and soft afterfeel.

Luvigel® EM

Sensory Profile

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

Lu

vig

el®

EM

0.5% a.m. Luvigel® EM (contains 0.5% Caprylic/Capric Trigliceride)


Luvigel® EM

Product Summary

Luvigel® EM provides

Best quick breaking: Sensory of immediate cooling and freshness

Smooth and moderate elegant afterfeel

Medium thickening power and emulsifying effect

It can give a whiter and shinier aspect to formulationsLu

vig

el®

EM


Superstructure of connected

micelles of HEUR thickener (hydrophobically modified ethoxylated

urethanes)

Properties

INCI: Polyurethane-39

Appearance: Transparent and viscous liquid

Active polymer: 20%

China compliant: no

Preservative: 1.2% mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Phenylpropanol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol and Tocopherol

Non-ionic aqueous dispersion


No neutralization or pre-swelling needed

Influence on sensory properties of a formulation

Associative thickener that interacts with structured hydrophobic

ingredients in the formulation

Luvigel® STAR AT 3

Product Profile

Lu

vig

el®

ST

AR

AT

3


Luvigel® STAR AT 3 has a dry and an inherent waxy afterfeel.

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Luvigel® STAR AT 3

Sensory Profile

Waxy Soft

DryLu

vig

el®

ST

AR

AT

3

0.6% a.m. Luvigel® STAR AT 3


Tinovis® ADE

Product Profile

Tin

ov

is®

AD

E

Properties

INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, PPG-1 Trideceth-6

Appearance: off-white liquid dispersion



Preservative: none


Can be added at any stage of the process


Performing thickener

Emulsifying & suspending capabilities without an additional emulsifier


Electrolyte tolerance Tinovis® ADE (1.0 % a.m.), pH 6.5

0

20,000

40,000

60,000

80,000

100,000

120,000

0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6

Viscosity vs pH curve Tinovis® ADE (1.0% a.m.)

0

20,000

40,000

60,000

80,000

100,000

120,000

0 2 4 6 8 10 12

Emulsifying capability Tinovis® ADE (0.5 % a.m.)





% NaClpH


Tinovis® ADE

Product Profile

Tinovis® ADE (0.5 %)

30

Tin

ov

is®

AD

E

Viscosity

(mPa s)

Viscosity

(mPa s)


0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Tinovis® ADE has a very dry and smooth afterfeel

Tinovis® ADE

Sensory Profile

Velvety

Smooth

Dry

Tin

ov

is®

AD

E

0.5% a.m. Tinovis® ADE (contains 0.5% Hydrogenated Polydecene)


Tinovis® ADE

Product Summary

Tinovis® ADE provides

Highest emulsifying features at low polymer active matter

High thickening power

Thickening properties from pH 5.3

Driest afterfeelTin

ov

is®

AD

E


Tinovis® GTC (UP)*

Product Profile

Tin

ov

is®

GT

C*

Properties

INCI: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer

Appearance: off-white liquid emulsion



Preservative: 0.6% mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben,

Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben (none in UP version)

Anionic pre-neutralized polymer

Suitable for sprayable formulations

Good thickening

Emulsifying capabilities without additional emulsifier Suspending effect

Forms transparent gels (at pH 6 and above)




Electrolyte tolerance Tinovis® GTC* (1.0 % a.m.), pH 6.5

0

20,000

40,000

60,000

80,000

100,000

120,000

0.0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6

Viscosity vs pH curve Tinovis® GTC* (1.0% a.m.)

0

20,000

40,000

60,000

80,000

100,000

120,000

0 2 4 6 8 10 12

Tinovis® GTC (UP)*

Product Profile

Emulsifying capability Tinovis® GTC* (1.0 % a.m.)





% NaClpH


Tinovis® GTC* (1 %)

30

Tin

ov

is®

GT

C*

Viscosity

(mPa s)

Viscosity

(mPa s)



Tinovis® GTC (UP)*

Sensory Profile

Tinovis® GTC* shows a soft afterfeel with residual silky performance

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Silky

Soft

Tin

ov

is®

GT

C*

1.0% a.m. Tinovis® GTC



Tinovis® GTC* provides

Tinovis® GTC (UP)*

Product Summary

Residual electrolyte tolerance

Soft and silky afterfeel

Good emulsifying properties

Medium thickening features

Suitable for transparent gels with suspending effect

Suitable for sprayable formulations

Tin

ov

is®

GT

C*



Rheocare® HSP 1180

Product Profile

Rh

eo

care

®H

SP

1180

Properties

INCI: Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid

Appearance: Clear viscous liquid solution



Preservative: none

Anionic polymer

Deliver high lubricity

Applicable at a broad pH range

Strong polyelectrolyte with effect on viscosity

Neutralization needed (AMP, NaOH, TEA – Not suitable: Ca(OH)2 or Mg(OH)2)

Sensory modifier – even in low concentrations


Rheocare® HSP 1180 is a sensory modifier recommended to boost the

lubricity during application and to impart a soft and plush afterfeel

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Rheocare® HSP 1180

Sensory Profile

Soft

Plush

Rh

eo

care

®H

SP

1180

1.0% a.m. Rheocare® HSP 1180


Summary

Thickening capability vs pH range

(1) Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.

(2) Thickening power of Luvigel® Star AT 3 is strictly dependent on formulation composition

pH1 3 5 7 9 11 13

Tinovis® ADE

Luvigel® EM

Luvigel® Star AT 3 (2)

Cosmedia® SP

Tinovis® GTC (1)

Rheocare® HSP 1180

Rheocare® C Plus (Carbomer)

++

+

o

+++

Thickening

capability


Viscosity vs pH value (1%) in water

Summary

Viscosity vs pH value

Remark: Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel® Star: not applicable in water

Viscosity

(mPa s)

pH0

20000

40000

60000

80000

100000

120000

140000

160000

180000

200000

0 2 4 6 8 10

Rheocare® C Plus (Carbomer) (1%)Cosmedia® SP (1%)

Luvigel® EM (1%) with activator

Tinovis® ADE (1%)

Tinovis® GTC* (1%)



Electrolyte tolerance (different a.m.)

Cosmedia® SP (1%) pH=6.1

Luvigel® EM (1%) with activator pH=6.8

Luvigel® EM (0,5%) without activator pH=6.8

Tinovis® ADE (1%) pH=7.0

Tinovis® GTC* (1%) pH=6.6

Rheocare® C Plus (Carbomer) (1%) pH=5.8

0

20000

40000

60000

80000

100000

120000

140000

160000

180000

200000

0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6

Summary

Electrolyte Tolerance

Remark: Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel® Star: not applicable in water

% NaCl

Viscosity

(mPa s)



Emulsifying capability (different a.m.)

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

Summary

Emulsifying Capability

(1) With activator: 0.125% Cocoglucoside

Stabilized

Oil phase (%)

Cosmedia® SP

(1%)

Tinovis® ADE

(0.5%)

Tinovis® GTC*

(1%)

Luvigel® EM

(1.5%) (1)

Rheocare® C Plus

(Carbomer) (1%)



Summary

Product positioning

Recommended solution to

impart a quick breaking to

formulations and a smooth

afterfeel.

Luvigel®

EM

Optimal solution to thicken and

emulsify/stabilize emulsions, usage at

broad pH range. Dry afterfeel. Easy

handling.

Tinovis®

ADE

Associative thickener with a

waxy afterfeel.

Luvigel®

STAR AT 3

Good emulsifying/stabilizing properties

and tolerance to electrolytes. Suitable

for sprayable and transparent

formulations. Silky afterfeel.

Tinovis®

GTC (UP)*

Velvety sensory with elegant

afterfeel. Efficient thickener

and emulsifier/stabilizer.

Cosmedia®

SP

Sensory modifier with lubricious effect

during application and plush afterfeel.

Rheocare®

HSP 1180



Area of Elegance

(Premium)

Area of Gentleness

(Neutral)

Area of Care

(Richness)

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

Pillow Talk™ Test Method for

Simplex and Advanced

Formulations:

30 trained test persons of the

expert panel

Done under supervision of the

BASF Performance team

Air-conditioned room

(temperature of 22°C,

HR 40%)

150µl polymer dispersion is

applied on the inside of the

forearm and distributed there

in 20 big circles

After 3 min the skin afterfeel

was compared to 9 pillows

made of different fabrics

Pillow Talk™ method

Simplex and Advanced Formulations

Hint: plush=soft/powdery/waxy chalky=dry/smooth/ soft

Plush

Waxy

Powdery

Chalky Dry

Smooth

Soft

Velvety

Silky


Sensory of Simplex Formulations

Formulation overview

Cosmedia® SP + Tinovis® GTC* + 30% emollient phase (“Silky sophistication“ – SC-DE-13-230-170)

Cosmedia® SP + Rheocare® HSP 1180 + 9% emollients (“Soft silk” – SC-DE-13-230-172)

Tinovis® GTC* + 30% emollient phase (“Light comfort” – SC-DE-13-230-135c)

Tinovis® ADE + 30% emollient phase (“Smooth care“ – SC-DE-13-166-11)

Cosmedia® SP and 25% emollient phase (Formulation sample not included in the polymer box)



Sensory of emollient phase (as is)

Emollient Phase done with same

amount of:

Cetiol® C 5 (Coco-Caprylate)

Myritol® 318 (Caprylic/Capric

Triglycerides)

Cegesoft® PS 6 (Olus Oil)

Area of Elegance

(Premium)

Soft

Velvety

Silky

Plush

Waxy

Powdery

Chalky Dry

Smooth

0

5

10

15

20

25

30


Tinovis® ADE (0.5% a.m.) + 30% emollients (“Smooth care“ – SC-DE-13-166-11)

0

5

10

15

20

25Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Tinovis® ADE (0.5% a.m.)

Emollient phase as is


Tinovis® ADE and emollient phase

0

5

10

15

20

25

30Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

02468

101214

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Emulsion based on Tinovis® ADE shows a light and silky afterfeel with

residual waxyness

Silky

Smooth

Waxy Soft


Tinovis® GTC* (1.0% a.m.) + 30% emollients (“Light comfort” – SC-DE-13-230-

135c)

05

1015202530

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Tinovis® GTC* (1.0% a.m.)


Emulsion based on Tinovis® GTC* has a distinct effect in

the area of Care with residual elegant feel


Tinovis® GTC* and emollient phase

0

5

10

15

20

25

30Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

02468

101214

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Plush

Powdery

Velvety

Waxy



Cosmedia® SP (1.0%) + 25% emollients (SC-DE-13-230-190)(1)

05

1015202530

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Cosmedia® SP (1.2%)


Emulsion stabilized with Cosmedia® SP imparts Care feeling to skin with

considerable velvety and soft afterfeel


Cosmedia® SP and emollient phase

(1) Formulation sample not included in the polymer box

05

1015202530

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

02468

101214

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Plush

Powdery

Soft

Velvety


Cosmedia® SP (0.3%) + Tinovis® GTC* (0.4% a.m.) + 30% emollients (“Silky sophistication“ – SC-DE-13-230-170)

0

5

10

15

20

25

30Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Cosmedia® SP and Emollients

Tinovis® GTC* and emollients

Emulsion stabilized with a combination of Cosmedia® SP and Tinovis®

GTC* delivers a combination of Care and Elegant Feeling

Cosmedia® SP in combination with

Tinovis® GTC* and emollient phase

05

1015202530

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

0

5

10

15

20

25

30Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Plush

Powdery

Velvety

Silky



Cosmedia® SP (1.2%) + Rheocare® HSP 1180 (0.5% a.m.)+ 9% emollients(“Soft silk” – SC-DE-13-230-172)

05

1015202530

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Cosmedia® SP and Emollients

Rheocare® HSP 1180 in water

(1.0% a.m.)

Emulsion stabilized with combination of Cosmedia® SP and Tinovis® GTC

delivers a combination of Care and Elegant Feeling

Cosmedia® SP in combination with

Rheocare® HSP 1180 and emollient phase

02468

101214

Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Emulsion based on Cosmedia® SP and Rheocare® HSP 1180 is lubricious

during application and the afterfeel is Caring but at the same time Elegant

and Gentle.

0

5

10

15

20

25

30Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

VelvetyPlush

Soft

Smooth

Waxy


Sensory of Advanced Formulations

Formulation overview

with 3D Sensory (“Luxurious balm“ – SC-FR-14-000-B001)

with Care feeling (“Elegant waxy cream” – SC-FR-14-000-D001)

with Powdery and Velvety feeling (“Powdery soft butter” – SC-FR-14-000-C001)

Cold processable O/W Emulsion


0

5

10

15

20

25

30Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Area of Care

(Richness)

Highest score in Care area: Waxy feeling due to combination with Luvigel®

EM, Tinovis® GTC* and Dehymuls® PGPH as W/O emulsifier. Chosen

emollients with low cost in use.


with Care feeling

„Elegant waxy cream“

SC-FR-14-000-D001

Rheocare® XG 0.20

Tinovis® GTC* 3.00

Dehymuls® PGPH 2.00

Luvigel® EM 2.00

Cetiol® PGL 4.00

Cetiol® AB 4.00

Cetiol® 868 4.00

Plantacare® 818 UP 1.00

Complete formulation

Plush

Waxy

Powdery



Elegant waxy cream

Preserved with a mixture of Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylene Glycol

SC-FR-14-000-D001

Phase Ingredients INCI % by weight Function

A Water, demin. Aqua ad 100

Glycerin Glycerin 2.00 Humectant

Preservative q.s. Preservative

Rheocare® XG (Europe only) Xanthan Gum 0.20 Rheology modifier

B Tinovis® GTC* Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 3.00 Rheology modifier

Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment

C Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Emulsifier (W/O)

Luvigel® EM Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer 2.00 Rheology modifier

Cetiol® PGL Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 4.00 Emollient

Cetiol® AB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.00 Emollient

Cetiol® 868 Ethylhexyl Stearate 4.00 Emollient

D Plantacare® 818 UP Coco-Glucoside 1.00 Emulsifier (O/W)

Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance

Specifications

pH value (20°C) 6.0 - 6.2

Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TE, helipath; 10 rpm; 20°C) 95 000 - 110 000 mPas

Manufacturing Process

Prepare phase A at room temperature. When phase A is homogeneous disperse Tinovis® GTC in phase A and adjust the pH value. Then add phase C to A+B and directly after add phase

D. Increase stirring rate to enable proper mixing until homogeneous.



0

5

10

15

20

25

30Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Area of Elegance

(Premium)

Area of Care

(Richness)

The combination of Luvigel® EM, Luvigel® STAR and Dehymuls® PGPH

(W/O emulsifier) imparts a powdery feeling to formulations. Emollients

choice to target lower costs.

„Powdery soft butter“

SC-FR-14-000-C001

Luvigel® STAR AT 3 2.00

Dehymuls® PGPH 2.00

Luvigel® EM 3.00

Cetiol® PGL 4.00

Cetiol® AB 4.00

Cetiol® 868 4.00

Plantacare® 818 UP 1.00


with Powdery and Velvety feeling


Waxy

Powdery

Velvety



A Water, demin. Aqua ad 100



Luvigel® STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 2.00 Rheology modifier

B Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Emulsifier (W/O)

Luvigel® EM Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer 3.00 Rheology modifier

Cetiol® PGL Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate 4.00 Emollient

Cetiol® AB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.00 Emollient

Cetiol® 868 Ethylhexyl Stearate 4.00 Emollient

C Plantacare® 818 UP Coco-Glucoside 1.00 Emulsifier (O/W)


Powdery soft butter


SC-FR-14-000-C001

Specifications

pH value (20°C) 6.0 - 6.2

Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle TE, helipath; 10 rpm; 20°C) 200 000 - 210 000 mPas


Prepare phase A at room temperature. When phase A is homogeneous disperse phase B in phase A. Then add phase C to A+B. Please note that on addition of phase

C a significant increase in viscosity is to be expected! Increase stirring rate to enable proper mixing until homogeneous.


0

5

10

15

20

25

30Silky

Velvety

Soft

Smooth

DryChalky

Powdery

Waxy

Plush

Gentleness Area

(Neutral)

The combination of Luvigel® STAR and Emulgade® CM delivers care and

cushion feeling. The velvety afterfeel is related to the emlulsion

component as well as to Cosmedia® SP.

„Luxurious balm“

SC-FR-14-000-B001

Cosmedia® SP 0.60

Luvigel® STAR AT 1.50

Emulgade® CM 10.00

Cetiol® CC 5.00


with 3D Sensory


Area of Elegance

(Premium)

Velvety

Area of Care

(Richness)

Plush

Powdery Smooth



A Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant

Edeta® BX Powder Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 Complexing agent


Water, demin. Aqua ad 100

B Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.60 Rheology modifier

C Luvigel® STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 1.50 Rheology modifier

D Emulgade® CM Cetearyl Isononanoate, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol,

Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Ceteareth-12, Cetyl Palmitate

10.00 Emulsion base

Cetiol® CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5.00 Emollient

E Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance

Luxurious balm


SC-FR-14-000-B001

Specifications

pH value (20°C) 5.9 - 6.1

Viscosity (Brookfield; DV-I+; spindle 6; 10 rpm; 20°C) 40 000 - 60 000 mPas


At room temperature, disperse phase B in phase A under stirring during 20 min. When the phase is homogeneous, add phase C. Then add phase D and for finish add phase E.


DISCLAIMER

All products in the text marked with an ® are trademarks of the BASF group.

This presentation is for information purposes only. In particular, BASF neither assumes the position of a

consultant or advisor nor any liability for the accuracy and/or completeness of the information and/or

recommendations given. Any information or recommendation given may not be complete and / or sufficient to

fully evaluate BASF products and their performance. BASF does not assume any liability or risk involved in

the use of its products as the conditions of use are beyond its control. You are responsible to test all products

as to their characteristics, performance and the suitability for your intended use and to ensure its compliance

with all applicable laws and regulations. BASF expressly disclaims any responsibility for the suitability of the

BASF products for any specific or particular purposes intended by the user.

Nothing in this presentation or in the information given in connection with this presentation, whether in writing,

orally or otherwise, is intended to give, or can be interpreted as giving, any representations and / or warranties

on the characteristics of BASF products, their properties, use and application, their suitability for any specific

or particular purpose, their compliance with laws and regulations and / or rights of third parties.

All information given in or in connection with this presentation shall be deemed confidential and proprietary to

BASF.

BACK-UP SLIDES


Polymer dispersions for sensory profile

Samples of polymers in water

Concentration of polymer 1 Concentration of polymer 2 pH Value Viscosity* [mPas]

1.2% Cosmedia SP 5.7 82500

2% Luvigel EM 6.2 41000

3% Luvigel STAR AT 3 6.0 < 200

1% Tinovis ADE 6.0 66250

3.33% Tinovis GTC** 6.5 32500

6.26% Rheocare HSP 1180 3.5 400

0.7% Cosmedia SP 3.13% Rheocare HSP 1180 6.2 4200

1.2% Tinovis GTC** 0.3% Cosmedia SP 6.2 8000

3% Luvigel STAR AT 3 0.5% Cosmedia SP 6.2 25000

3% Luvigel EM 2% Luvigel STAR AT 3 6.2 212500

3% Tinovis GTC** 2% Luvigel EM 6.2 200000

* BRK RVF, TC-Spindle, 4 rpm, HelipathRemark: samples were preserved with Euxyl K 100

** Tests were done on Tinovis® GTC. Now only Tinovis® GTC UP, UnPreserved version, is available.


Smooth Care

SC-DE-13-166-11


A Tinovis® ADE Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene,

PPG-1 Trideceth-6

1.00 Rheology modifier

Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100

B Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant

C Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 10.00 Emollient

Myritol® 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10.00 Emollient

Cegesoft® PS 6 Olus Oil [EU], Vegetable Oil [CTFA] 10.00 Emollient

D Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance


E Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment

Preserved with MIT (Methylisothiazolinone)

Specifications

pH value (23°C) 5.6

Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C) 187500 mPas


Mix components listed under A while stirring. When the solution is homogeneous add phase B. Mix the oil phase C separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add

phase D one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to ~5.5


Light Comfort

SC-DE-13-230-135c


A Tinovis® GTC* Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 3.33 Rheology modifier

Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100

B Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment

C Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant

D Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 10.00 Emollient



E Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance



Specifications


Viscosity (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TC, helipath; 4 rpm; 23°C) 82500 mPas


Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Mix the oil phase D

separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase E one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to ~6.0



Silky Sophistication

SC-DE-13-230-170


A Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100

Tinovis® GTC* Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer 1.20 Rheology modifier


C Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.30 Stabilizer

D Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Humectant

E Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 10.00 Emollient



F Preservative q.s. Preservative



Specifications




Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Add phase D. Mix the oil

phase E separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase F one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to 6.3 - 6.7



Soft Silk

SC-DE-13-230-172



Rheocare® HSP-1180 Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid 3.12 Rheology modifier


C Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.20 Stabilizer

D Glycerin Glycerin 2.00 Humectant

E Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 3.00 Emollient



F Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance



Specifications




Mix components listed under A while stirring. Add phase B. When the solution is clear and homogeneous add phase C. Stir until it is homogeneous. Add phase D. Mix the oil

phase E separately and add slowly to the formulation. Finally add phase F one by one. If necessary adjust the pH to 6.0 - 6.5


Delicious Buttergel

SC-DE-12-139-1


A Water, demin. Aqua 85.30

Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.20 Rheology modifier

B Cegesoft® SH Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter 5.00 Consistency agent

Cegesoft® VP Olus oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Candelilla cera

[EU], Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil,

Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax

4.00 Emollient

Cetiol® SB 45 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 4.00 Emollient

Cegesoft® GPO Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil 0.50 Emollient

C Perfume Parfum q.s. Fragrance



Age Prevention Lotion

SWOP concept

SC-DE-13-173-3


A Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.00 Emulsifier (W/O)


Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 4.00 Emollient

Myritol® 331 Cocoglycerides 6.00 Emollient

Cegesoft® PFO Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil 3.00 Emollient

B Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100


Rheocare® XG (Europe only) Xanthan Gum 0.05 Stabilizer

Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate 0.80 Stabilizer

C Plantapon® LGC SORB Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (and) Lauryl

Glucoside

1.50 Surfactant

D Litchiderm™ LS 9704 Butylene Glycol, Litchi Chinensis Extract 3.00 Active ingredient

Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH Adjustment




From Cream To Oil

Surprise, Surprise !

SC-FR-12-001-F011




C Eumulgin® BA 25 Beheneth-25 5.00 Emulsifier (O/W)

Lanette® 22 Behenyl Alcohol 2.00 Consistency agent


Isopropyl Palmitate Isopropyl Palmitate 15.00 Emollient

Cetiol® C 5 Coco-Caprylate 15.00 Emollient

D Sqisandryl™ LS 9905 Schizandra Chinensis Fruit Extract 0.30 Active ingredient


Covi-ox® T 90 C Tocopherol 0.10 Antioxidant

E preservative q.s. Preservative


Huile Velours Lisse Eclat

Cream-to-Oil

SC-FR-13-005-A008




Phenonip XB

(Clariant)

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben,

Propylparaben

1.00 Preservative


C Eumulgin® BA 25 Beheneth-25 5.00 Emulsifier (O/W)

Lanette® 22 Behenyl Alcohol 2.00 Consistency agent


Cetiol® Sensoft Propylheptyl Caprylate 10.00 Emollient


D Fragrance Parfum 0.10 Fragrance

E X-Pressin™ C Aqua, Papain, Carbomer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol,

Algin

1.00 Active ingredient


Perfect Night

Serum-to-Oil Moisturizer

SC-FR-13-013-A018c




Euxyl K 320

(Schülke)

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylene

Glycol

1.00 Preservative

Rheocare® TTA Acrylates Copolymer 3.00 Rheology modifier

B Eumulgin® BA 25 Beheneth-25 5.00 Emulsifier (O/W)

Cetiol® RLF Caprylyl Caprylate/ Caprate 10.00 Emollient



C Sodium Hydroxide (25% solution) Sodium Hydroxide 0.13 pH Adjustment

D Perfume Parfum 0.50 Fragrance

E Phytokine™ A00287 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene

Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol


Neurobiox™ A00112 Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Achillea

Millefolium Extract, Xanthan Gum



Dry Touch High Efficiency Index

Cream Gel SPF 30

UV-DE-13-022-8-1


A Eumulgin® B 2 Ceteareth-20 2.00 Emulsifier (O/W)


Cetiol® B Dibutyl Adipate 5.00 Emollient


Uvinul® T 150 Ethylhexyl Triazone 1.50 UV-B filter

Tinosorb® S Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 1.70 Broad spectrum UV filter

B Water, demin. Aqua Ad 100


Keltrol CG-RD

(CP Kelco)

Xanthan Gum 0.30 Stabilizer

Edeta® BD Disodium EDTA 0.20 Complexing agent

C Tinovis® ADE Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene,

PPG-1 Trideceth-6

1.20 Rheology modifier

D Xiameter PMX-0246 Cyclohexasiloxane

(Dow Corning)

Cyclohexasiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane 4.00 Emollient

KSG-16

(Shin Etsu Chemical)

Dimethicone, Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone

Crosspolymer

2.00 Skin feel modifier

E Tinosorb® A2B Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (nano), Aqua, Decyl Glucoside,

Butylene Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Xanthan Gum

6.00 UV-B / A II filter

Tinosorb® M Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

(nano), Aqua, Decyl Glucoside, Propylene Glycol,

Xanthan Gum

6.00 Broad spectrum UV filter



Effect of Rheocare® C Plus and

Cosmedia® SP synergy on viscosity

0

20000

40000

60000

80000

100000

120000

3.00 5.00 7.00 9.00 11.00 13.00pH

Effect of Rheocare® C Plus and

Cosmedia® SP synergy on viscosity with oils

Performance improvement of Cosmedia® SP at lower pH by addition of

small amounts of Rheocare® C Plus(*)

Synergies of Cosmedia® SP: pH Shift

Rheocare® C Plus (Carbomer)

0

40000

80000

120000

160000

200000

1% Cosmedia® SP +20% oil

1% Cosmedia® SP +20% oil

1% C. SP + 0.1%Rheocare® C Plus + 20%

oilCosmedia® SP 0,5%

Cosmedia® SP + 0,1% Rheocare® C Plus



Different spindles form standardized tests (TE, 4 rpm)

Viscosity ( mPa s)

BKD RVT #TE 4 rpm (25°C)

Viscosity ( mPa s)


pH 6 pH 5,3

Back To Cosmedia® SP

(*) The stability can be strongly influenced by oil type


Effect of Rheocare® XG and Cosmedia® SP

synergy on viscosity

Effect of Rheocare® XG and Cosmedia® SP

synergy on viscosity

Cosmedia® SP & Rheocare® XG synergy help to stabilize oils and viscosity

in presence of electrolytes(*)

Viscosity ( mPa s)


Viscosity ( mPa s)


% Rheocare® XG + 1% Cosmedia® SP

Synergies of Cosmedia®SP: Salt Tolerance

Rheocare® XG (Xanthan Gum)

0

40000

80000

120000

160000

200000

1% Cosmedia® SP +20% Oil

1% Cosmedia® SP +20% Oil

1% C.® SP + 1%Rheocare® XG + 20% Oil

Without NaCl With 0.3% NaCl

Different spindles form standardized tests (TE, 4 rpm)Back To Cosmedia® SP

(*) The stability can be strongly influenced by oil type

0

20000

40000

60000

80000

100000

120000

0.00 0.25 0.50 0.75 1.00

Without NaCl With 0.15% NaCl With 0.30% NaCl


Viscosity vs pH Curve (1%)

0

20000

40000

60000

80000

100000

120000

140000

160000

180000

200000

0 2 4 6 8 10

Cosmedia® SP (1%) Luvigel® EM (1%) with Activator

Tinovis® ADE (1%) Tinovis® GTC (1%)

Carbomer (1%) Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (1%) Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (0.4%)

Viscosity

(mPa s)

Summary

Viscosity vs pH Curve

(1) Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel ® Star: not applicable

pH



Electrolyte tolerance (different a.m.)

0

20000

40000

60000

80000

100000

120000

140000

160000

180000

200000

0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6

Cosmedia® SP 1% pH=6,09 Luvigel® EM 1% with activator pH=6,8

Luvigel® EM 0,5% Without activator pH=6,8 Tinovis® ADE 1% am pH=7,01

Tinovis® GTC 1%am pH=6,6 Carbomer (1%) pH=5.76

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0,4% pH=5,89

Viscosity

(mPa s)

Summary

Electrolyte Tolerance

(1) Rheocare® HSP 1180 and Luvigel® Star: not applicable

% NaCl



Emulsifying capability (different a.m.)Stabilized Oil

phase (%)

Summary

Emulsifying Capability

(1) With activator: 0.125% Cocoglucoside

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

Carbomer (1%)

Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 (1%)

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (3) (0,4%)

Cosmedia® SP (1%)

Luvigel® EM (1,5%) (1)

Tinovis ® ADE (0,5%)

Tinovis® GTC* (1%)



Product Information Performance Application

Trade Name INCI Name Acti

ve

Po

lym

er

%

Ph

ysic

al

form

(1)

Typ

e

Reco

mm

en

de

d

do

sag

e a

s

is %

Co

nta

ins

EO

/PO

Eth

an

ol

Co

mp

ati

bil

ity

pH

ap

pli

cati

on

ran

ge

Salt

To

lera

nc

e

Sen

so

ry P

rofi

le

Th

icken

ing

Em

uls

ifyin

g /

Sta

bil

izin

g

Cle

ar

Gels

Fa

ce &

Bo

dy

Su

n C

are

AP

/Deo

Remarks

Cosmedia® SP Sodium Polyacrylate >88 P Anionic 0.2 – 1 No 6 – 12 Improve cushion

Luvigel® EMCaprylic/Capric Triglycerides (and)

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer~25 L Anionic 0.5 – 3 Yes 6 – 9 o Quick breaking

Luvigel® STAR AT 3 Polyurethane-39 ~20 LNon-

Ionic0.5 – 5 Yes 2 – 12 o

Associative

thickener

Tinovis® ADESodium Acrylates Copolymer (and)

Hydrogenated Polydecene (and)

PPG-1 Trideceth-6

~55 L Anionic 0.5 – 2 Yes 5 – 12 Easy handling

Tinovis® GTC (UP)*Acrylates/Beheneth-25

Methacrylate Copolymer ~30 L Anionic 1 – 4 Yes 6 – 12

Sprays and

transparent gels

Rheocare® HSP1180Polyacrylamidomethylpropane

Sulfonic Acid~15 L Anionic 1 – 5 No 2 – 12 o o o Improves lubricity

Rheocare® C Plus Carbomer >97 P Anionic 0.1 – 1 No 4 – 12 o High

transparency

Rheocare® TTA Acrylates Coplymer ~30 L Anionic 0.5 – 4 No 6,5 – 12 Suitable for

serums

Rheocare® XG (2) Xanthan Gum >97 P Anionic 0.1 – 1 No 3 – 10 o High

transparency

Cosmedia® Triple CPolyquaternium-37 (and) Dicaprylyl

Carbonate (and) Lauryl Glucoside~50 L Cationic 0.5 – 3 No 3 – 11

Cosmedia® Ultragel 300 Polyquaternium-37 > 92 P Cationic 0.5 – 1.5 No 3 – 11

Polymers for Skin Care applications

(1) Physical form: P = Powder L = Liquid

(2) Available in Europe only

Version: Jan 2015 Performance: o None Good Very Good Excellent


Polymers portfolio for Skin Care

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