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Ann Taylor
Ann Taylor LoftAnn Taylor Factory Stores
Construction Guidelines
CASUAL BOTTOMS
Unlined
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
Casual Bottoms - Unlined 5 February 2004
CASUAL BOTTOMS
INTRODUCTION:
The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology andcomponents.
These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Loft andAnn Taylor Factory Stores apparel products.
The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.
NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.
CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:
SHADES: All shades are to be individually labeled.
PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal): Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment.
Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement. One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be A/B marker. Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package.
NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR CASUAL BOTTOMS - PANTS & SKIRTS: Fully Lined.
Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: See Spec Package. Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch
FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES: All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. Following parts to be fused, unless indicated otherwise in Spec Pkg.:
* Inner & Outer Waistband - Note: Contour Waistbands, cut 2 piece fusible w/ Front and Back Waistband fusible parts cut on Straight Grain(Waistband Fusible Quality Options: Outer Waistband: Kufner #R861 /PCC #1061 Inner Waistband: Kufner #V401 / PCC #2610)
* Waist Facing * Zipper Setting + Fly Facing& Extension * Pocket Edge + Pocket Setting
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STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-15):
PANT LEG PRE-CREASE:
NOTE: See Spec Package for style details - Crease OR NO Crease.
Centerof Leg
B9-1 Pre-Crease Leg
Front Front
CenterofLeg
Note:Crease Leg toThigh Line Only
ThighLine
Crease along
center of Leg
NO Creasefrom Waist toThigh line
Center of leg is at "right angle" to Hem l ine.
Align
Outsesam &Inseam edgefrom Knee toLeg Opening
Front Leg
Back Leg
At "final" pressing:Position along Front legcrease prior to pressingBack Leg crease.
Note: Inseam andOutseam are alignedfrom Knee to LegOpening.
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PANT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:NOTE: See Specification Package for Construction Method.
Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. Overedge stitch width 1/8 minimum.
Method 1 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Open press Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge
(double stitch base of Rise) Front Rise Back Rise Open press above rise curve
Method 2 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Open press Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge Front Rise Back Rise Open Press above rise curve
Method 3 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Open press Safety Stitch Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: Menswear
Fly Closure, pressed toward wearers right)
Method 4 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Press toward back Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge
(Double stitch base of Rise) Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: Menswear
Fly Closure, pressed toward wearers right)
Method 5 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Outseam Inseam Press toward back
Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: MenswearFly Closure, pressed toward wearers right)
Method 6 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) Safety Stitch Outseam Inseam Press toward back
Front Rise Back Rise Press toward wearers left (Exception: MenswearFly Closure, pressed toward wearers right)
Method 7 Seam Type Seam Pressing (Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.) JEANS Safety Stitch Outseam Press toward back
Felled Seam Front Rise Back Rise Inseam Back Yoke
Rises: Felled seam on wearers left (Exception:Menswear Fly Closure, seam on wearers right)
Inseam: Felled seam on Front Leg Back Yoke seam direction per Design Details
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SKIRT CONSTRUCTION METHODS:NOTE: See Specification Package for Construction Method.
Thread / Needle size compatible with fabric quality. Overedge stitch width 1/8 minimum.
Method 1 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
Lockstitch; Open w/ Overedge Side seams Center Back Open press Panel seams Center Front
Method 2 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
Chainstitch; Open w/ Overedge Side seams Center Back Open press Panel seams Center Front
Method 3 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
Lockstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Side seams Press toward back Center Back Press toward wearers left Center Front Press toward wearers right Panel seams Press toward center
Method 4 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
Chainstitch; Closed w/ Overedge Side seams Press toward back Center Back Press toward wearers left Center Front Press toward wearers right Panel seams Press toward center
Method 5 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
Safety Stitch Side seams Press toward back Center Back Press toward wearers left Center Front Press toward wearers right Panel seams Press toward center
Method 6 Seam Type Seam Pressing(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
French Seam Side seams Press toward back Center Back Press toward wearers left Panel seams Press toward center
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STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS:
Lockstitch - Open Press w/Overedge Finish Chainstitch Open Press w/ Overedge Finish
Open Press
Lockstitch Overedge
Lockstitch
A1-1 Lockstitch w/Overedge finish - Open Press
Seam Details 1/2 seam
allowance
Overedge atraw edge
Lockstitch
Open Press(Above risecurve)
(Note: If Topstitched,press to oneside of seam.See Spec Pkg.)
A1-2 Chainstitch w/ Overedge finish - (Open press)
Chainstitch(under side)
Overedge
Open Press
(top sideof stitch)
Overedge
Seam Details 1/2 seam
allowance
Overedge atraw edge
2-ThreadChainstitch
Open Press(above risecurve)
(Note: If Topstitched,press to one sideof seam. SeeSpec Pkg.)
Lockstitch - Closed w/ Overedge Safety Stitch
Lockstitch Close w/ Overedge
A1-5 Lockstitch; Closed w/Overedge -(press to one side)
Seam Details 3/8 to
seamallowance
Lockstitch
Closed w/Overedge
Press to oneside(See
ConstructionMethods Chart
/ Spec Pkg.)
Chainstitch(under side)
(top sideof stitch)
Overedge Stitch
A1-6 Safety Stitch (5-Thread)
Safety Stitch(Combination ofSingle Needle Chainstitch+ Overedge Stitch)
Press to One Side (see Spec Pkg)
Seam Details 3/8 seam
allowance
Press to oneside (see
ConstructionMethods Chart orSpec Pkg.)
Shell seams
Lining seams
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STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS:
Felled Seam w/ Chainstitch Felled Seam w/ Lockstitch
A1-20 Felled seam - Chainstitched
Chain Stitch
Outside of Garment Inside of Garment
Cross SectionThrough
Stitch
Seam allowances inter-lap
ThroughStitch
Seam Details
Lapped Seam(Raw edgesenclosed)
1/4 to3/8seamallowance
2-ThreadChainstitch
Outside View
A1-21 Felled seam - Lockstitched
Inside View
Lockstitch
Seam allowances inter-lap
ThroughStitch
Cross SectionThrough
Stitch
Seam Details
Lapped Seam(Raw edgesenclosed)
1/4 to 3/8seamallowance
Lockstitch
Lockstitch; Raw Edge
Seam Types: Waistband / Waist Edge, Pocket Edge
LockstitchRaw Edge
A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)
Lockstitch
Seam Details
1/4 seamallowance
Edge seams
Internal seams(i.e. Waistband
/ Waist Edge,Pocket Flap)
When pressedto one side (See
Construction
Methods Chart orSpec Pkg.)
Back Tack
1/2" Tail
A2-0a Dart Seam w/ Lockstitch
Single Point
*Follow Dart Guideon pattern
Darts
Lockstitch
Press darttoward CenterFront / CenterBack
Run off DartPoint w/ tail.
No dimpling atDart Point
Follow Dartmarker
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STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED & UNLINED PANTS & SKIRTS:
Stay-Stitch (Pre-Stitch) Hip Curve Inseam for patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter than Front Inseam.
Seam Line
B9-2 Hip Curve Stay-Stitch
F ro nt
Staystitch1/16"fromSeamline
Seam Line
B ac k
Staystitch
1/16"fromSeamline
Seam Details
PANT: Outseam
SKIRT: SideSeam
Lockstitch
Stitch in seamallowance
(approx. 1/16from seam line) Stretch
Back Inseamevenly tomatchFront Inseam
I n s e a m
I n s e a m
(align edge@ seam)
(match notches)
KneeKnee
Back RiseFront Rise
B9-3 Inseam from Rise to Knee
* NOTE: For patterns w/ Back Inseam shorter thanFront Inseam from Rise to Knee
(match notches)
Seam Details
Seamallowance(unless notedotherwise inspec pkg.)
l l b l d d d l
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STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES:
Full Bendback & Topstitched Clean Finish (Partial Bendback) & Topstitched
A15-1 Hem w/Full Bendback; Topstitch
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Topstitch
Full Bendback
A15-2 Hem w/Clean Finish (Partial Bendback) &Topstitched
Outside Garment Inside Garment
Topstitch
Overedge Finish & Topstitched Overedge Finish & Blindstitch
A15-3 Hem w/Overedge; Bendback; Topstitched
Outside Garment Inside Garment
OveredgeTopstitch
A15-6 Hem w/ Overedge; Bendback; BlindstitchOutside Garment Inside Garment
OveredgeBlindstitch
(No deep stitch pick )
1:1 stitch ratio
Blindstitch requirements: Machine should be set to 1:1 stitch ratio Do not use skipstitch function ( 2:1 or 3:1) unless specified by Technical Design. Overlap blindstitch by 1 and lock tail either by tacking or by using a self locking blindstitch machine. (Treasure Co. produces such a machine) Recommended Needles: Groz-Beckert V-Needle size 65. Needle will be relevant to fabric. Recommended Thread Quality: Amann Serafil 200/2 ( www.amann-online.de ). Thread quality will be relevant to fabric.
A T l Gl b l S i S d d C i G id li
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STANDARD LEG OPENING FINISHES (continued)
Cuff w/ 2 Tacks (for Narrow Leg Opening)
A15-9a Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Hem Tape & Blindstitch (Inseam & Outseam)
Outside Garment
Seam
CUFF
Stitch-tackat Seams(under cuff)
Inside Garment
Seam
Hem Tape & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)
Hem Tape& Blindstitch
A15-9b Cuffed Hem w/ 2 Tacks - Overedge & Blindstitch (Inseam & Outseam)
Outside Garment
Seam
CUFF
Stitch-tackat Seams(under cuff)
Overedge& Blindstitch
Overedge Finish & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)
Inside Garment
Seam
Cuff w/ 4 Tacks (for Wide Leg Opening)
A15-10a Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Hem Tape &Blindstitch (Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)
Hem Tape & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)
CUFF
Stitch-tackat Seams,Frt & BkCreases(under Cuff)
Outside Garment
Hem Tape& Blindstitch
Seam
Inside Garment
Seam
Inside GarmentOutside Garment
Seam
Seam
CUFF
Stitch-tackat Seams,Frt & BkCreases(under Cuff)
A15-10b Wide Cuffed Hem w/ 4 Tacks - Overedge Finish (Inseam, Outseam & Leg center)
Overedge Finish & Blindstitch(No deep stitch pick; 1:1 stitch ratio)
Overedge Finish& Blindstitch
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STANDARD BUTTON SETTING:
Button Placement aligned at Buttonhole outer end. Leather and Suede - Stay button for all functional buttons.
B8-3 Outside Button Setting
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
Outside Button:* Set w/ Lockstitch machine* Thread Shank w/ wrap (except Button w/ self shank)
* Logo Buttons set w/ logo in same direction.
Button Setting:* 2-Hole Button: Align 2 holes w/ Buttonhole.
* 4-Hole Button: Set w/ "X" stitch (unless specified otherwise).
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
B8-4 Inside Button Setting
Inside Button: * 2-Hole Button;* Dyed to Match; Matte Finish
* Set w/ 2 holes aligned w/ buttonhole * Stitch through inner layer only.
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STANDARD INSIDE BUTTONHOLE TYPES & PLACEMENT:
Ann Taylor StoresFor Waistband Height up to 1 wide For Waistband Height wider than 1
B8-5 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"
* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:
B8-6 Keyhole Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider
Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband
Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for * Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
LOFT & Factory StoresFor Waistband Height up to 1 wide For Waistband Height wider than 1
* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for:
B8-7 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height up to 1 1/2"
Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband Center Buttonhole on Waistband
B8-8 Straight Inside Buttonhole - Waistband Height 1 3/4" or wider
Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband
Set Buttonhole 3/4" down fromtop edge of Waistband
* Waistband / Garment Opening (with or without Inside Extension)* Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
NOTE: See Spec Pkg for
STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 16 62)
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ZIPPER CLOSURES:
*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg
A4-1a Lapped Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
A4-2a Kissing Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg
A4-3a Exposed Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg
Invisible Zipper: Sealed at bottom Length: 1 1/2 longer than Opening Order to length do not cut to length.
*Waistband/ Waist Finish per Spec Pkg
A4-4a Invisible Zipper Setting - Closed Bottom
Seam Line
Bottom ofZipper
Interlining Width:1/4" beyondseam line
Interlining Length: 1" beyond
Zipper Opening
A4-a Invisible Zipper Interlining -Pant / Skirt:
A4-b Invisible Zipper setting w/ Waistband
Inside of Waistband
* Clip seam allowance at 1" from opening edge.* Open press Waistband seam allowance 1".
Press seam allowance toward Waistband
w/ Zipper to top edge
Zipper Sealed End
Shell -Inside of Garment
Lining
A4-4a Invisible Zipper -Inner Construction; LINED
* Stitch Zipper Tape tailto one seam allowance
*BIAS Skirts: Do notstitch Zipper Tail to
seam allowance.
Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2"longer than
Zipper Opening
A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Open Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED
Sealed End
* Stitch Zipper Tape tailto one seam allowance
*BIAS Skirts: Do notstitch Zipper Tail to
seam allowance.
Inside of Garment
Zipper Tail 1 to 1 1/2"longer than
Zipper Opening
* Stitch Zipper Tapetail to one seam allowance
*BIAS Skirts: Do notstitch Zipper Tail to
seam allowance.
A4-4a Invisible Zipper - Closed Seam Inner Construction; UNLINED
Sealed End
* Safety Stitch seam
from 2 1/2" belowZipper Tail* Press to Back or
Wearer's Left Back
Open Press forZipper Setting
Lockstitch
Zipper Tail 1" to 1 1/2" longerthan Zipper Opening
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FLY CLOSURES:Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, with Waistband:
NOTE: Sketch for Fly Constructiononly.
See Spec Package for:Inside Waist FinishOutside Closure
Zipper Placement:Top: maximum down
from seam.Bottom: maximum upfrom Fly stitch.
FlySeam
Backstitch orEdgestitch(per Spec Pkg)
1 1/4"
Inside top edge:1/8" belowoutside top edge
B4-10a Shape Fly Extension w/ Waistband -
2 1/2"
ImaginaryFly seam line 2 1/2"
Inside of Garment
Standard Measurements
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
B4-1 Shaped Fly Extension w/Waistband; Lined & Unlined
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Inside of Garment
Raw edge
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Wearer'sLeftClean Finish Backstitch
or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg
Fly Closure - Shaped Fly Extension, without Waistband
NOTE: Sketch for Fly Construction
only.
See Spec Package for:Inside Waist FinishOutside Closure
Zipper Placement:Top: maximum downfrom seam.Bottom: maximum upfrom Fly stitch.
Inside top edge:
B4-10b Shaped Fly Extension w/o Waistband
Facing
Inside of Garment
Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg
Wearer'sLeft
1 1/4"
2 1/2"
Fly Seam
Standard Measurments
1/8" belowoutside top edge
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
B4-2 Shaped Fly Extension w/Facing; Lined & Unlined
* NOTE: Waist Facing Finish per Spec Pkg
Clean FinishEdgestitch
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Wearer'sLeft
Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
Buttonhole Type per Standard
w/ Button Closure
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FLY CLOSURES: (continued)
Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Clean Finish at bottom(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):
NOTE: Sketch for Fly Construction only.
See Spec Package for:Finish at bottom of Fly ExtensionInside Waist FinishInside / Outside Waistband ExtensionOutside Closure
Zipper Placement:Top: maximum down from seam.Bottom: maximum up from Flystitch.
1 1/2"Wide,Topto
Bottom
B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Widthw/ Waist Band
FlySeam
B4-5a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom
Inside Waistband Extension w/ Straight End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
EdgestitchClean Finis h
Fold
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
1 1/2" InsideExtension
Clean Finish
B4-5b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish bottomInside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Clean Finish Edgestitch
Fold
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
1" Extension to corner
3/4" Point
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Clean Finish
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Fold
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
B4-5c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Clean finish at bottom No Inside Extension
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
* See Spec Pkg forWaistband Extension(spec, straight vs pointed end)
Clean Finish
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FLY CLOSURES: (continued)
Fly Closure: 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension; Overedge Stitch at bottom(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):
NOTE: Sketch for Fly Construction only.
See Spec Package for:Finish at bottom of Fly ExtensionInside Waist FinishInside / Outside Waistband ExtensionOutside Closure
Zipper Placement:Top: maximum down from seam.Bottom: maximum up from Flystitch.
1 1/2"Wide,Topto
Bottom
B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Widthw/ Waist Band
Fly
Seam
B4-15a 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom; Inside Waistband Extension w/Straight End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
EdgestitchClean Finis h
Fold
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
1 1/2" InsideExtension
Overedge Stitch
B4-15b 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge bottomInside Waistband Extension w/Pointed End
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Clean Finish Edgestitch
Fold
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
1" Extension to corner
3/4" Point
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Overedge Stitch
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Fold
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
B4-15c 1-Piece Straight Fly Extension w/Overedge at bottom No Inside Extension
* Reinforce Fly Openingw/Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
* See Spec Pkg forWaistband Extension(spec, straight vs pointed end)
Overedge Stitch
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FLY CLOSURES: (continued)
Straight 2-Piece Fly Extension(with Waistband & Waistband Extension options):
NOTE: Sketch for Fly Construction only.
See Spec Package for:Finish at bottom of Fly ExtensionInside Waist FinishInside / Outside Waistband ExtensionOutside Closure
Zipper Placement:Top: maximum down from seam.Bottom: maximum up from Flystitch.
1 1/2"Wide,Topto
Bottom
B4-11a Straight Fly Extension Widthw/ Waist Band
Fly
Seam
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
B4-6a 2-Piece Straight Fly Extensionw/Inside Waistband Extension - Straight End
Clean Finish
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Outside of Garment
Seam w/BackstitchOR Edgestitch
Edgestitch
* Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack * Upper tack to be maximum
1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
1 1/2" InsideExtension
Inside of Garment
Inside of Garment
Clean Finish
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
B4-6b 2-Piece Straight Fly Extensionw/Inside Waistband Extension - Point End
* Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Seam w/BackstitchorEdgestitch
3/4" Point
1" Extension to corner
* See Spec Pkg forWaistband Extension(spec, straight vs pointed end)
* Reinforce Fly Opening w/ Stitch-tack or Bartack
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Seam w/BackstitchorEdgestitch
B4-6c 2-Piece Straight Fly Extension
Outside of Garment
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per spec pkg
Inside of Garment
Edgestitch
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
w/Outside Waistband Extension
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FLY CLOSURES: (continued)
Fly Closure - Straight Fly Extension, without Waistband Ladies Button Fly Closure
NOTE: Sketch for Fly Construction only.
See Spec Package for:Finish at bottom of Fly ExtensionInside Waist FinishOutside Closure
Zipper Placement:Top: maximum down fromseam.Bottom: maximum up from Flystitch.
1 1/2"Wide,Topto
Bottom
B4-11b Straight Fly Extension Width
w/ Facing
NOTE:Facing Finish per Spec Pkg.
Fly
Seam
Edgestitch
Outside of Garment Inside of Garment
B4-9 Button Fly Ladies Closure
* Bartack to reinforceFly Opening
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Fold
Waist SeamWaist Seam
W a i s t S
e a m
Fashion Fly ClosuresB4-3 Shaped Fly Extension w/Binding Edge Finish
Outside of Garment
Wearer'sLeft
Inside of Garment
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg.
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Edgestitch
* Bartack to reinforceFly Opening
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head
(w/ zipper fully open)
Full CleanFinishBinding
Clean Finish Backstitch or Edgestitch* See Spec Pkg
Inside of Garment
B4-4 Shaped Fly Extension w/Binding Finish
Full CleanFinishBinding
* NOTE: Waistband Finish & Closure per Spec Pkg
Zipper Teeth set 3/8"from Front Edge
Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Clean Finish
* Bartack to reinforceFly Opening
* Upper tack to be maximum1/8" above Zipper Head(w/ zipper fully open)
Wearer'sLeft
Backstitch orEdgestitch.See Spec Pkg.
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Ladies Fly Closure & Mens Fly Closures:
B4-12a Ladies Fly Closure w/ Waistband
Outside of Garment - Closed
NOTE: Waistband w/ orw/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg.
Outside of Garment - Closed
B4-12b Ladies Fly Closure w/ Facing
NOTE: Facing w/ or w/o Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.
Outside of Garment - Closed
B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Waistband* Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure
NOTE: Waistband w/ or
w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg.
NOTE: Facing w/ or
w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg.
* Note: All Construction Reverse of Ladies Closure
B4-13a Men's Fly Closure w/ Facing
Outside of Garment - Closed
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WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH:
OpeningEdge
a. Waistband w/Straight Front Edge
Crackstitch
OpeningEdge
Crackstitch
b. Waistband w/Straight Outside Extension
B1 Waistband Closed w/ Crackstitch Finish
Outside Views
OpeningEdge
c. Waistband w/Pointed Outside Extension
Crackstitch
Clean Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg)
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Crackstitch
TurnBackEdge Seam allowance
Stay Tape
Inner ConstructionTurn Back
Inner Waistband
Outer WB
B1-1a Contour Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband
Topedgeseam
B1-1b Straight Waistband - Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
OpeningEdge (SeeSpecPkg)
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Inside View
Seam allowance
Outer WB
Clean Finish TurnBackEdge
Inner Construction
CrackstitchInner Waistband
Turn Back
Top edge
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WAISTBAND CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):
Overedge Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
Opening Edge(SeeSpecPkg)
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Crackstitch
OveredgeSeam allowance
Overedge
Inner Construction
Outer WB
B1-2a Contour Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Inner Waistband
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Top
edgeseam
Stay Tape
OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg)
B1-2b Straight Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/ Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Clean Finish
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Inside View
Overedge
Inner Waistband Crackstitch
Outer WB
OveredgeSeam allowance
Inner Construction
Top edge
Binding Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
O
peningEdge(SeeSpecPkg)
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Crackstitch
3/16" Binding Seam allowance
Binding
Outer WB
Inner Construction
B1-3a Contour Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Inner Waistband
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Topedgeseam
Stay Tape
O
peningEdge(See SpecPkg)
B1-3b Straight Waistband-Binding Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Crackstitch (w/ or w/o Lining)
Clean Finish
Inside View
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Binding
Inner Waistband Crackstitch
Outer WB
3/16" BindingSeam allowance
Inner Construction
Top edge
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WAISTBAND CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH (continued):
Curtain Finish at Inside Edge(Unless noted otherwise in Spec Pkg.)
Opening Edge(SeeSpecPkg)
Crackstitch Bias setin seam
Waistband
Inside View
Inner Construction
Outer WB Seam allowance
Stay Tape
B1-5 Straight Waistband w/Curtain Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/ Crackstitch
Curtain Binding
Inner Waistband
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Self
WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED: See Spec Package Design Details for Topstitching Details (Single or Double Needle).
OpeningEdge
a. Waistband w/
Straight Front Edge
Crackstitch
OpeningEdge
Crackstitch
b. Waistband w/
Straight Outside Extension
B1-6 Waistband closed w/ Crackstitch & Topstitched
Outside Views
OpeningEdge
c. Waistband w/Pointed Outside Extension
Crackstitch
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WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ CRACKSTITCH & TOPSTITCHED:
Clean Finish at Inside Edge
Inside View
OpeningEdg
e
Clean FinishCrackstitch
TurnBackEdge
Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)
B1-7a Contour Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched
See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband
Inner Construction
Seam allowance
Inner Waistband
OuterWB
Stay Tape
Raw Edge
TopEdge
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
Backstitch
OpeningEdge
B1-7b Straight Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ Crackstitch; Topstitched
Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)
TurnBackEdge
CrackstitchClean Finish
See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband
Inside View
Inner Waistband
Seam allowanceOuter WB
Inner Construction
Raw Edge
Top edge
Backstitch
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
Overedge at Inside Edge
OpeningEdge
CleanFinish
Crackstitch
Overedge
Inside ViewTopstitch (see Spec Pkg)
B1-8a Contour Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched
Overedge
Inner Waistband
Outer WB
Seam allowance
Inner Construction
Stay Tape
See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband
TopEdge
Backstitch
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
OpeningEdge
B1-8b Straight Waistband-Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/Crackstitch; Topstitched
See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband
Inside View
CleanFinish
Inner Waistband
Inner Construction
Overedge
Crackstitch
Outer WB
Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)
Seam allowance
Overedge
Top edge
Backstitch
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
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WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ EDGESTITCH:
OpeningEdge
OpeningEdge
OpeningEdge
B1-9 Waistband closed w/ Edgestitch
b. Waistband w/Straight Outside Extension
Outside Views
Crackstitch
a. Waistband w/Straight Front Edge
Crackstitch
c. Waistband w/Pointed Outside Extension
Crackstitch
Clean Finish at Inside Edge
OpeningEdge
Inside View
Clean Finish
TurnBackEdge
Edgestitch all around
B1-10a Contour Waistband - Clean Finish Inside Edge; Closed w/ Edgestitch
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Inner Construction
Seam allowance
Inner Waistband
Outer WB
Stay Tape
Raw Edge
TopEdge
B1-10b Straight Waistband - Clean Finish Inside Edge; Closed w/ Edgestitch
Edgestitch all around
Clean Finish
OpeningEdge
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Inside View
Inner Waistband
Seam allowance
TurnBackEdge
Outer WB
Inner Construction
Raw Edge
Top edge
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WAISTBAND OPTIONS CLOSED W/ EDGESTITCH (continued):
Overedge Finish at Inside Edge w / Edgestitch
OpeningEdge
B1-11a Contour Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;
closed w/Edgestitch
CleanFinish
Inside View
Overedge
Edgestitch all around
Overedge
Inner Waistband
Outer WB
Seam allowance
Inner Construction
Stay Tape
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Top
Edge
OpeningEdge
B1-11b Straight Waistband - Overedge Finish @ Inside Edge;closed w/Edgestitch
See Spec Pkg forWaistband end
Inside View
CleanFinish
Inner Waistband
Inner Construction
Seam allowanceOveredgeOuter WB
Edgestitch all around
Overedge
Top edge
Clean Finish at Inside Edge w / 1/8 Topstitch
Inside View
OpeningEdge
Clean Finish
TurnBackEdge
1/8" Topstitch
B1-12a Contour Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ 1/8" Topstitched
See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband
Inner Construction
Seam allowance
Inner Waistband
Outer WB
Stay Tape
Raw Edge
TopEdge
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
Backstitch
OpeningEdge
B1-12b Straight Waistband-Clean Finish @ Inside Edge; closed w/ 1/8" Topstitched
1/8" Topstitch
TurnBackEdgeClean Finish
See Spec Pkg for shape atend of Waistband
Inside View
Inner Waistband
Seam allowanceOuter WB
Inner Construction
Raw Edge
Top edge
Backstitch
* See Spec Pkg for Closure
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WAIST FACING OPTIONS:
OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg.)
Waist Facing
Inside View
Overedge,Bendback & Edgestitch
Backstitch
Inside of Waist Facing
Waist Join Seam
Inner Construction
Bottom Edgeof Facing
Stay Tape
Overedge,Turnback &Edgestitch
Backstitch
B2-1 Waist Facing w/Overedge, Bendback & Edgestitch Finish
OpeningEdge(See
SpecPkg.)
Waist Facing
Clean Finish
Backstitch
Inside View
Inside of Waist Facing
OveredgeFacing Edge
Overedge
Waist JoinSeam
Inner Construction
Stay Tape
B2-2 Waist Facing w/Overedge Finish
Backstitch
Inside View
OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg)
Waist Facing
Clean Finish
Backstitch
3/16" BindingStay Tape
Binding @Facing Edge
Inner Construction
Inside of Waist Facing
Facing Seam
Backstitch
B2-3 Waist Facing w/Binding Finish; (w/ or w/o Lining)
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OTHER WAIST EDGE FINISHING OPTIONS:
OpeningEdge (SeeSpecPkg.)
Fold EdgestitchBinding
Inside View
Inner Construction
Inside of WaistBinding
Waist Join SeamStay Tape
Edgestitch
B2-5a Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Edgestitched (w/ or w/o Lining)
Top Edge
TopEdge ofBinding
BindingEdgestitch
OpeningEdge(SeeSpecPkg.)
Fold
Outside View
Opening Edge(SeeSpecPkg.)
Fold CrackstitchBinding
Inside View
Inner Construction
Inside of WaistBinding
Waist Join SeamStay Tape
Crackstitch
B2-5b Waist Edge Finished w/ Binding; Crackstitched (w/ or w/o Lining)
Top Edge
TopEdge ofBinding
Fold Crackstitch
OpeningEdge (SeeSpecPkg.)
Outside View
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BELT LOOPS OPTIONS:
B3-1 Clean Finish @ Top;Single Bendback @ Bottom w/Bartack
(2) Reverse bendback
(4) Bartack (3) Single bendback
(1) Stitch-tack
B3-2 Clean Finish @ Bottom;Single Bendback @ Top w/Bartack
(4) Bartack (3) SingleBendback
(2) Reverse Bendback (1) Stitch-tack
(4) ReverseBendback
(5) OutsideStitch-tack
(3) InsideStitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback (1) Stitch-tack
B3-3b Clean Finish Top & BottomOutside Stitch-tack @ Top
(4) ReverseBendback
(5) InsideStitch-tack
(3) InsideStitch-tack
(2) Reverse Bendback (1) Stitch-tack
B3-3c Clean Finish Top & BottomInside Stitch-tack
B3-4 Set in @ Waistband Join SeamOutside Bartack - Top & Bottom
(4) OutsideBartack (3) Single
Bendback
(2) Outside Bartack (1) Set intoWaistband
B3-5 Set in @ Waistband Join SeamOutside Bartack - Top
(4) OutsideBartack (3) Single
Bendback
(2) Inside Stitch-tack or Bartack
(1) Set intoWaistband
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BELT LOOPS OPTIONS:
B3-6 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top - Inside Stitch-tack
(5) InsideStitch-tack
(4) ReverseBendback
(3) Stitch-tack
(1) Set intoWaistband
(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack
B3-7 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top w/Outside Bartack
(5) OutsideBartack (4) Reverse
Bendback
(3) Stitch tack
(2) Stitch tack or Bartack
(1) Set intoWaistband
B3-7b Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top - Outside Stitch-tack
(5) OutsideStitch-tack (4) Reverse
Bendback
(3) Stitch-tack
(2) Stitch-tack or Bartack
(1) Set intoWaistband
(3) Stitch-tack
(4) ReverseBendback
(1) Set into
Waistband
(5) Bartack
(2) Bartack
B3-8 Set in @ Waistband Join Seam;Clean Finish @ Top - Outside Bartack Top & Bottom
B3-9 Set in @ Top Edge;Clean Finish @ Bottom - Inside Stitch-tack
(4) Stitch-tack (3) ReverseBendback
(2) Stitch-tack
(1) Set intoWaistband
B3-10b Set in @ Top Edge;Clean Finish @ Bottom - Top Outside Stitch-tack
(4) Bartack
(3) ReverseBendback
(2) Stitch-tack
(1) Set intoWaistband
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BELT LOOPS OPTIONS (Continued):
B3-12 Set in Top Edge &Waistband Join Seam
Set intoWaistband
Set intoWaistband Inside Stitch-tack
Press w/ Seam centered
A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop
A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop
Seam at edge.
Top side Under side
A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop
A12-3a Folder Finish-Belt Loop
A12-3b Wide Folder Finish - Belt Loop
A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/Tear Drop (at seam)
Seam
A12-4b Crochet Belt Loop /Tear Drop (at edge)
A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/Tear Drop (set in Seam)
A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop(set in Seam)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
WELT POCKET OPTIONS
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WELT POCKET OPTIONS:
Welt Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts
w/ 1+1 Back Darts
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-1a Back Welt Pocket -No Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-1b Back Welt Pocket -w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
w/ 2+2 Back Darts
B5-1c Back Welt Pocket -no Edgestitch
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Note: w/ or w/o Waistband
Outside of Garment
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
B5-1d Back Welt Pocketw/ Edgestitch
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Besom Pockets - 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Dartsw/ 1+1 Back Darts
B5-2a Back Besom Pocket -No Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Note: w/ or w/o Waistband
B5-2b Back Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
w/ 2+2 Back Darts
B5-2c Back Besom Pocket - no Edgestitch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
B5-2d Back Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
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BESOM POCKET OPTIONS:
Welt & Besom Pockets - Front PocketsHorizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch).
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-1e Front - Welt
Outside of Garment
Pocket - No Edgestitch
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-1f Front Welt
Outside of Garment
Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
B5-2e Front Besom Pocket -no Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B5-2f Front Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET:
Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -
Length:4 1/2" from upperWelt seam
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
Facing Appliedonto Pocket Bag
Version 2:Self-Facing
1) Full Self OR
2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)
Top & Under Pocket Bag:
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Length:3 1/2" from upperWelt seam
B5-a Regular Length B5-b Short Length
Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish
Length:4 1/2" from upperWelt seam
Pkt Bag set in Waist /
Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
Facing Applied ontoPocket Bag
Version 2:Self-Facing
1) Full Self Pocket Bag
OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)
Top & Under Pocket Bag:
Fold
* Clean finish* Seam allowance
enclosed
Backtackcorner
Backtackcorner Fold
* Clean finish* Seam allowance
enclosed
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Length:3 1/2" from upperWelt seam
B5-d Regular Length B5-e Short Length
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BESOM & WELT POCKET OPTIONS:
Vertical or Angled Besom & Welt Pockets
Outside of Garment
B5-3a Vertical Besom Pocket - no Edgestitch
Seam
w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
Seam
Outside of Garment
B5-3b Vertical Besom Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B5-3c Vertical Welt Pocket - no Edgestitch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
Seam
Outside of Garment
w/ or w/o Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
B5-3d Vertical Welt Pocket - w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Garment
Seam
Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Vertical Welt & Besom Pocket - Inside of Garment
Seam
Inside of Garment
Waist Edge1) Full Self OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)
SetFacing
ontoBag
Top & Under Pocket Bag:
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ON SEAM POCKET OPTIONS:
Vertical On Seam PocketsPocket Bag Terms:
Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment.
Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Inside Stitch-tack
Seam
B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack
Outside of Garmentw/ inside Stitch-tack
Seam
Inside of Garment
See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
Waist Edge
Inside Stitch-tack
Seam
Outside of Garment w/ Bartacks
Bartack
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
Bartack
See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.
Seam
Inside of Garment
Waist Edge
B5-4a Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - No Topstitch @ Opening w/ Bartack
See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.
Inside Stitch-tack
Seam
Seam
Inside Stitch-tack
B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Inside Stitch-tack
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
Outside of Garmentw/ inside Stitch-tack
Waist Edge
Inside of Garment
* Topstitch Opening* See Design Detail
Sketch for spacing.
Seam
Outside of Garment w/ Bartacks
Bartack
Note: w/ or w/oWaistband
Bartack See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.
Seam
Inside of Garment
Waist Edge
B5-4b Vertical "On Seam" Pocket - Topstitch @ Opening w/ Bartack
* Topstitch Opening* See Design Detail
Sketch for spacing.
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ON SEAM POCKET OPTIONS:
Vertical On Seam Pocket Facings
Backstitch@OpeningEdge
SelfFacing
Seam
Seam
Inside of Garment
B5-5a Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Applied Facing;
Under Pocket bag
SelfFacing
Seam
Top Pocket bag
Facing applied onto Pocket BagStitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.
Waist Edge
Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch.
Seam
B5-5b Vertical Onseam Pocket w/ Self Extended Facing
Top & UnderFacingsextend fromFront & Back
Inside of Garment
Stitch-tack orBartack 1/2" down
from Waist seam
Waist Edge
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
ON SEAM POCKET OPTIONS:
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Horizontal / Angled On Seam PocketsPocket Bag Terms:
Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
B5-4c Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -No Topstitch @ Opening
See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.
Seam
Inside of GarmentStitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.
Pocket Opening
Backstitch along inside edge
Poc k eting
Top Pocket Bag: 1 Piece self or pocketing fabric. See Spec Pkg Trim pg.
Under Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment
B5-6a On-Seam Pocket Bag - Applied Facing -for Horizontal / Angled Pocket
Pocketing
Under Pocket Bag
On-Seam Pocket seam
Self-AppliedFacing
Clean Finish or Overedge
"Face" side ofUnder Pocket Bag
B5-4d Horizontal / Angled "On Seam" Pocket -Topstitch @ Opening
Pocket Opening
Stitch-tack or Bartack See Spec Pkg - Detail Sketch.
See Spec Pkg forPocket Facing type.
Seam
Inside of Garment
* EdgestitchOR * Backstitch inside edge & Topstitch** See Spec pkg
Pocket Bag: Self or pocketing fabric.See Spec Pkg Trim pg.
B5-6b On-Seam Pocket Bag - 1 Piece Top & Under for Horizontal / Angled Pocket
Pocket Bag
Inside of Garment
Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
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QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
Inside Stitch-tack1/2" up
Inside Stitch-tack1/2" down
B5-8a Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistbandw/ Inside Stitch-tack
Waistband
Outside of Garment
Pocket Opening -w/ or w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B5-8b Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband w/ Bartack
Bartack See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch
Outside of Garment
Pocket Opening -w/ or w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Waistband
Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
B5-8c Quarter Top Pocket w/ Waistband -Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam
SideSeam
Waistband
Under Pocket
LiningorPocketing fabric
LiningorPocketing fabric
Self-Quarter Top Piece;applied onto Pocket Bag
SideSeam
Pocket Bagset into Waist Seam
Self Under Pocket Bag
SideSeam
SideSeam
LiningorPocketing fabric
Waistband
Under Pocket
B5-8d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Side Seam
See Spec Pkg for TopPocket Bag fabrication
Pocket Bag
set into Waist seam
Under Pocket
B5-8e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ Waistband -Shaped Self Facing; w/ Open Pressed Side Seam
LiningorPocketing fabric
Waistband
Side Seam
Pocket Bagset into Waist seam
LiningorPocketing fabric
Self-Quarter Top Piece;applied onto Pocket Bag
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
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Quarter Top Pocket w/ NO Waistband* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
B5-9a Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband w/inside Stitch-tack
Waist Top Edge
SideSeam
Outside of Garment
Inside Stitch-tack1/2" up
Inside Stitch-tack1/2" down Pocket Opening -
w/ or w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B5-9b Quarter Top Pocket - No Waistband w/ Bartack
SideSeam
Outside of Garment
Waist T op Edge
Pocket Opening -w/ or w/o Topstitching.See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Bartack See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch
Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
B5-9c Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -Straight Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam
Self-Quarter Top Piece;applied onto Pocket Bag
SideSeam
LiningorPocketing fabric
SideSeam
LiningorPocketing fabric
Waist Facing
Under Pocket Pocket Bag to Top edge
B5-9d Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband -Self Under Pocket Bag; Open Pressed Seam
Self Under Pocket Bag
SideSeam
Under Pocket
See Spec Pkg for TopPocket Bag fabrication
Waistband
Pocket Bag toTop edge
SideSeam
LiningorPocketing fabric
LiningorPocketing fabric
SideSeam
Waist Facing
Self-Quarter Top Piece;
applied onto Pocket Bag
LiningorPocketing fabric
Under Pocket Pocket Bag to Top edge
B5-9e Quarter Top Pocket Bag w/ No Waistband - Shaped Self Facing; Open Pressed Side Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
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QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
L-Shape* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
Outside of Garment
B5-11a L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -No Topstitch
SideSeam
Inside Seam
Waist Seam
B5-11b L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -Single Needle Topstitch
Single
Topstitch;See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch
SideSeam
w/ or w/oBartack;See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch
Outside of Garment
Inside SeamWaist Seam
B5-11c L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing -Double Needle Topstitch
Dbl Needle TopstitchSee Spec Pkg -Detail sketch
SideSeam
w/ or w/oBartack;See Spec Pkg -Detail sketch
Outside of GarmentSeam or StitchedthroughWaist Seam
Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
SelfAppliedto PocketBag
SideSeam
SideSeam
Facing
PocketingTop Pocket Bag
SideSeam
PocketingUnder Pocket Bag
Pocket Bags - Inner View
Under Pocket Bag
Reinforcementstitch at PocketOpening
B5-11 L-Shape Pocket w/ Facing - Inside of Garment
Backstitch(except w/ Dbl Ndl Topstitch)
Inside Seam
Pocket Bag - Inside of Garment
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET OPTIONS:
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Q
Quarter Top Pocket w/ Self Pocket Bag
Topstitch through all Layers;See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B5-10 Quarter Top Pocket - Self Pkt Bag; Set to Shell
Outside of Garment
SideSeam
Inside of Garment
Topstitchthrough allLayers
Under
Pocket Bag
Full Bendbackw/ Topstitch
Waist Seam Waist Seam
Scoop Pocket Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitching. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing
w/ or w/oTopstitch
SideSeam
Outside of Garment
Waist Seam
SideSeam
Inside of Garment
Self Appliedto Pocket Bag
Applied toPocketing
Top Pocket Bag
SideSeam
Facing
Inner Pocket View of Pocket Bag (before Bag is seamed)
Backstitch
B5-13 Scoop Pocket w/ Facing - Inner Construction
Waist Seam
Under Pocket BagTop Pocket Bag
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
QUARTER TOP POCKET BAG OPTIONS:
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Pocket Bag Terms & Dimensions: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
SideSeam
Under Pocket
Waist Seam
4 3/4"
8 1/2"
Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam
6 1/2"
B5-14a Regular Quarter Top Pocket Bag - w/ Waistband
SideSeam
6 1/2"
B5-14b Quarter Top Pocket Bag - NO Waistband
Pocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam
4 3/4"
Under Pocket
8 1/2" fromWaistline position
B5-14c Short Pocket Bag
SideSeam
Under PocketPocket Bag Length x Width - Seam to Seam
4 1/2"
5 1/2"
6 1/2"
Waist Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
JEAN POCKET BAG OPTIONS:
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Pocket Bartack Details: Scoop Pocket and Coin Pocket -
with or without Bartack. Bartack - Vertical, Horizontal or Diagonal. See Spec Package.
Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of
garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and
Under Pocket Bag.
Note: See spec pkg forRivet/Bartack detail
Pocket BagSet to Edge
Outseam
Bartack
Outside of Garment
Waist Seam
B5-12a Jean/Scoop Pocket(no Facing) - w/Bartacks
B5-12c Jean Coin Pocket w/Bartacks
Outseam
Wearer's Right
Waist SeamOutside of Garment
Bartack
Bartack
Pocket BagSet to Edge
Y N L
A R O N
N O R L Y N
A T A
T
A
Outseam
N
Y O L
N
R
L
N
O
N
Y A T
A
R A
A T
Outside of Garment
Rivets
Note: See spec pkg for
Rivet/Bartack detail
B5-12b Jean/Scoop Pocket(no Facing) - w/Rivets
Waist Seam
Outseam
A R
L
N
A Y T
O
N
R A
O Y L
A
N N
T
Wearer's Right
Waist Seam
Outside of GarmentB5-12d Jean Coin Pocket w/Rivets
L
N
A Y O
N
Rivets O R A
Y L
A
N N A
T
R
N A R O
T
N O R A Y L
A
N T
L
N
A Y T
O N A R
A
T Y A Y
L T
N A
N O
L R N
Rivets
SideSeam Fold
Inside of Garment
Self Appliedto Pocket Bag
Inner View - Under Pocket Bag
Under Pocket Bag
Waist SeamWaist Seam
B5-12 Jean/Scoop Pocket (no Facing)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
PATCH POCKET OPTIONS:* N S S k f k Sh d i h d il
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* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detailB5-15a Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/o Topstitch -
Lined or Unlined
Raw edgew/ or w/oStaystitch
Seamedinside
B5-15b Patch Pocket-Bluff Setting; w/ Topstitch - Lined or Unlined
Raw edgew/ or w/oStaystitch
Seamedinside
SingleBendback
Rawedgew/ or w/oOveredge
Set Pocket w/ Topstitch
B5-16 Patch Pocket-Topstitched Setting
B5-17 Patch Pocket Lined to Top Edge
Lined to Top edge Set Pocket w/ Topstitch
Lining
PATCH POCKET BENDBACK FACING OPTIONS:
Outside View Inside View
1" Bendback Facing
Lining
B5-18a Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facing -Lined
Outside View
1" Bendback Facing
Inside View
Overedge &Topstitched
B5-18b Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facingw/ Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
1" Bendback Facing
Inside View
Clean Finish(bendback Facingseam allowance)& Topstitched
Outside View
B5-18c Patch Pocket w/Single Bendback Facingw/ Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
B5-18d Patch Pocket w/Full Bendback Facing- Unlined
Outside View
Clean Finish& Topstitched
Full Bendback Facing;See Spec pkgfor Topstitch detail.
Inside View
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
PATCH POCKET ATTACHED FACING OPTIONS:* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
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p g p p
Outside View Inside View
Lining
Backstitch (if not Topstitched)
5-19a Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing -Lined
See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight
Outside View Inside View
Overedge &Topstitched
5-19b Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;Overedge Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
Backstitch (if not Topstitched)See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight
Inside View
Clean Finish& Topstitched
Outside View
Backstitch (if not Topstitched)
B5-19c Patch Pocket w/Attached Facing;Clean Finish & Topstitched - Unlined
See Spec Pkgfor FacingHeight
PATCH POCKET REINFORCEMENT OPTIONS:
Triangle Stitch
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
B5-20a Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
Rectangle Stitch
B5-20b Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
Diagnal Stitch
B5-20c Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
Horizontal Stitch
B5-20d Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
HorizontalBartack
B5-20e Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
PATCH POCKET W/ CURVED OPENING:
Diagonal Bartack
B5-20f Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
Vertical Bartack
B5-20g Patch Pocket -Reinforced Corner
(See Spec Pkg forPocket Shape)
Waist Seam
B5-22a Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening; Self Facing - Lined
Outside of Garment
Self FacingBackstitchif needed
Inside of Pocket (before set)
SideSeam
SideSeam
Lining
SideSeam
SideSeam
B5-22b Patch Pocket w/ Curved Opening; Self Facing - Unlined
Inside of Pocket (before set)Waist Seam
Self Facing
Outside of Garment
BendbackFinish
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
POCKET FLAP OPTIONS:
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Welt Pocket w/ Flap 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts
* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
w/ 1+1 Back Darts
Flap set in upperWelt seam
B6-1a Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
Underflap:Bias
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Backstitch
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B6-1b Welt Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch
Flap set in upperWelt seam
Underflap:Bias
See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
Waist Seam
w/ 2+2 Back Darts
Underflap:Bias
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
Flap set in upperWelt seam
Backstitch
B6-1c Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
B6-1d Welt Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Flap set in upperWelt seam
See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
Waist Seam
Underflap:Bias
Besom Pocket w/ Flap 1+1 Back Darts and 2+2 Back Darts
* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.w/ 1+1 Back Darts
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
B6-2a Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
BackstitchUnder Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upperSeam * w / or w/o
Bartack
See spec pkg -Detail Sketch
B6-2b Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch
See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
* w / or w/oBartack
See spec pkg -Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Under Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upperSeam
Waist Seam
w/ 2+2 Back Darts
Waist Seam
Outside of Garment
B6-2c Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
BackstitchUnder Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upperSeam * w / or w/o
Bartack
See spec pkg -Detail Sketch
B6-2d Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch
See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
* w / or w/oBartack
See spec pkg -Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Under Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upperSeam
Waist Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
POCKET FLAP OPTIONS:
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Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Flap Front PocketsHorizontal or Angled (See Design Sketch)
Flap set in upperWelt seam
B6-1e Front Welt Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
Underflap:Bias
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Backstitch
Outside of Garment
* w / or w/o Bartack See spec pkg - Detail Sketch
B6-1f Front Welt Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch
Flap set in upperWelt seam
Underflap:Bias
See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
Outside of Garment
B6-2e Front Besom Pocket w/ Flap -No Topstitch
BackstitchUnder Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upperSeam * w / or w/o
Bartack
See spec pkg -Detail Sketch
B6-2f Front Besom Pocket w/ Flap -w/ Topstitch
See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
* w / or w/oBartack
See spec pkg -Detail Sketch
Outside of Garment
Under Flap:Bias
Flap set inBesom upperSeam
POCKET BAGS FOR WELT & BESOM POCKET W/ FLAP:
Pocket Bag Terms: Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag.
Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket -
Length:4 1/2" from upperWelt seam
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
Facing Appliedonto Pocket Bag
Version 2:Self-Facing
1) Full Self OR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)
Top & Under Pocket Bag:
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Length:3 1/2" from upperWelt seam
B5-a Regular Length B5-b Short Length
Pocket Bag for Back Welt & Besom Pocket - Clean Finish
Length:4 1/2" from upperWelt seam
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Upper Seam
Facing Applied ontoPocket Bag
Version 2:Self-Facing
1) Full Self Pocket BagOR 2) w/Applied Self Facing(see Spec Pkg Detail sketch)
Top & Under Pocket Bag:
Fold
* Clean finish* Seam allowance
enclosed
Backtackcorner
Backtackcorner Fold
* Clean finish* Seam allowance
enclosed
Pkt Bag set in Waist /Waistband stitch
Length:3 1/2" from upperWelt seam
B5-d Regular Length B5-e Short Length
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
POCKET FLAP OPTIONS:
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Patch Pocket w/ Flap* Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
B6-3 Bluff Patch Pocket w/Flap -No Topstitch at Edge
Raw edge
enclosed
Under Flap:Bias
1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Stitch-tack at ends
1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Stitch-tack at ends
* See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
B6-4a Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched Stitch-tack at Flap corners
Under Flap:Bias
Raw Edge
Enclosed
B6-4b Patch Pocket w/ Flap - Topstitched Bartack at Flap corners
Raw EdgeEnclosed
* See Spec Pkg forTopstitch detail
1/4" Topstitch w/ raw edge enclosed & Bartack at endsUnder Flap:
Bias
Under Flap Bias Cut
Bias
Underflap:*Cut smaller than outer flap.*Cut on bias.
B6-5 Under Flap -Pattern & Cutting Direction
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
POCKETS W/ BUTTON CLOSURE - OPTIONS:
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Welt & Besom Pocket w/ Button Closure Note: See Spec Pkg. for Pocket Shape and Topstitch detail.
B7-1a Welt Pocket w/ Button& Vertical Buttonhole
Outside of Garment
* Welt w/ or w/oEdgestitch / Bartack
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B7-1b Welt Pocket w/ Button& Horizontal Buttonhole
Outside of Garment
* Welt w/ or w/oEdgestitch / Bartack
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B7-2a Besom Pocket w/ Button& Horizontal Buttonhole
Outside of Garment
* Besom w/ or w/oTopstitch / Bartack
See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
B7-2b Besom Pocket w/Button & Loop Closure
Outside of Garment
* Besom w/ or w/oEdgestitch / Bartack
* See Spec Pkg - Detail sketch
Welt & Besom w/ Flap & Button ClosureB7-3a Besom Pocket w/ Vertical Wide Flap & Button Closure
Wide Flap w/VerticalButton Hole
* w/ or without Topstitching* See Spec Pkg Design Details
B7-3b Besom Pocket w/Narrow Flap & Button Closure
Narrow Flapw/ HorizontalButton Hole
* w/ or without Topstitching* See Spec Pkg Design Details
B7-3c Welt Pocket w/ Flap & Button Closure
Wide Flap w/VerticalButton Hole
* w/ or without Topstitching* See Spec Pkg Design Details
Narrow Flapw/ HorizontalButton Hole
B7-3d Welt Pocket w/Narrow Flap & Button Closure
* w/ or without Topstitching* See Spec Pkg Design Details
Patch Pocket w/ Button Closure B7-4a Patch Pocket w/Vertical
Buttonhole & Button Closure
See spec pkg for* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail* Bartack
B7-4b Patch Pocket w/Horiztonal Buttonhole & Button Closure
See spec pkg for* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail* Bartack
See spec pkg for* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail* Bartack
B7-5a Patch Pocket w/Flap Vertical Buttonhole &
Button Closure
B7-5b Patch Pocket w/Flap HoriztonalButtonhole &
Button Closure
See spec pkg for* Patch Pocket Type
* Topstitch Detail* Bartack
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
VENTS:
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A13-6 Vent-Unlined; Lapped; Topstitched
Inside GarmentOutside Garment
VentEdge
Seam
With or without Tack (see Spec Pkg.)
Topstitch
Full Dbl Bendback
Seam
*See spec pkg for Topstitching & Hem type
A13-7 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; Topstitched
Inside GarmentOutside Garment
SeamTopstitch
LiningDbl Bendback w/Topstitch
Seam
Backstitch
VentEdge
Open Bottom
Blocked Hem
A13-8 Vent-Lined-Open; Blocked Hem; No Topstitch
Inside GarmentOutside Garment
CtrBackSeam
LiningDbl Bendback w/Topstitch
CtrBackSeam
Backstitch
VentEdge
Open Bottom
Blocked Hem
Top of Vent
VENT & SLIT X TACK:
NOTE: Sketch is for X Tack only. See Spec pkg. for Vent style details.
A14 Slit-"X" Tack
* No tack if fabricwill be damaged
from tack.
Top of Slit
for Shipping
Outside Garment
Seam
A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack
for Shipping
VentEdge
"X" Tack for Shipping
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
BINDING & PIPING FINISHES:
A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler
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Folded
A6-1 Full Clean Finish
w/Edgestitch
A9 3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler
Outside of Garment Inside ofGarment
Backstitch
Edge finished w/Facing OR Lining
Piping w/ or w/o Filler
Note: No Backstitch ifedge is Topstitched
BUTTONHOLES:A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish
Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)
Underside
(Straight Buttonhole)Topside
A10-4b Bound Buttonhole -Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole
A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched
Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)
A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather
Topside Underside
A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole w/Bartack at end
Bartack
w/ or w/o Gimp Filler(* See Spec pkg Trim)
A10-2 Keyhole Buttonholew/ Fishtail End
w/ or w/o Gimp(* See Spec pkg Trim)
A10-3 Regular/StraightButtonhole
A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole - Horizontal
Seam
A10-5b On-Seam Buttonhole -Vertical
Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
ZIPPER TERMS:Note: See Specification Pkg. for Right or Left Zipper Pull. Zipper illustrations are generic.
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(A) Closed end -
Normal type
(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended
Closed
(B) 2 - Ended
Closed
(D) 2 Pulls -2 Open Ends
(D) 1 Pull
Open End
Common Zipper Types
(A) Closed end -Invisible type
SealedEnd
Sealedat Top
Tape Ends
Stringer
Cord
Bead
Bottom Stop
Slider
Chain
Pull
Teeth
Top Stops
Retainer
Separable Pin
Retainer Pin
Opened Tape Closed
Basic Zipper Construction Terms
TapeWidth
ChainWidth
Length ofFastener
Zipper Dimension Terms
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
HOOK & EYE TYPES:
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A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye
A11-1b Hook &
Straight Eye
A11-1c Hook & Loop
Hook & Loop Eye Setting at inside top of zipper Hook & Thread Loop Setting at inside top of zipper
A11-1a Setting Hook & Loop Eye
Set Zipperw/Zipper Slide edge1/4" down fromfinished top edge
at Inside Top of Zipper
A11-1c Setting Hook & Thread Loop
Set Zipperw/Zipper Slide edge1/4" down fromfinished top edge
at Inside Top of Zipper
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
LOOP & FROG CLOSURES:
A10 6 C h t B tt L
A10-7a Button Loop -
A10-7b Button Loop -
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A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -Kissing Setting
A10-6b Crochet Button Loop - Open Setting
A10 7a Button Loop Kissing Setting
pOpen Setting
A10-7c Button Loop -Closed Setting
Top Side
Under side of Loop
A10-8 Folder Button Loop
A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure
OTHER CLOSURES:
A11-2a Hook & Bara. Machine Set
* Note: Reinforce w/Self or Interlining
A11-2b Hook & Bar b. Hand Set
A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape
Hook Tape Loop Tape
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction Guidelines
DECORATIVE STITCHES:
DST-1 Pearl Stitch*Overedge stitch w/ 18 26 Stitches per Inch depending on finish needed
DST-2 Shell Stitch*Overedge stitch to form thread around edge in "Shell" shape
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Inside Garment
Pearl Stitch
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed.
Outside Garment
*Overedge stitch to form thread around edge in "Shell" shape.
Shell Stitch
Inside Garment
* Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to havewavy Lettuce leaf edge.
* See spec pkg for stitch width & density.
Outside Garment
DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch
Lettuce Edge
Surging Stitch
Inside Garment
DST-4 Picot Stitch
Outside Garment
* Two thread multi-step Chainstitchformed just off edge.
Picot Stitch
DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting*Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges.*See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width.
Two Needle Fagoting
DTS-6 Pick Stitch*See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing.
* Stitch Length and Spacingmay be even or uneven.
Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Standard Construction GuidelinesDECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):
DST-7 Saddle Stitch* Overedge stitch
DST-8 Blanket Stitch
8/11/2019 Construction Casual Bottoms (Unlined)
63/63
Casual Bottoms - Unlined 63 February 2004
* Stitch Length and Spacingare equal size.
* See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI).
Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers.
Overedge stitch.* See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width.
Outside Garment
Blanket Stitch
Inside Garment
Step 2 - Topside Step 2 - Underside
Seam at top of tuck
Double Needle w/ Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside * closes fold * creates tuck
* See Spec Pkgfor Tuck Height
Seam at top of tuck
Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside
DTS-9 Air Tucking
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