YodelBahn’s Modular Model Rail System Module Design... · 2016-09-28 · YodelBahn’s Modular...

YodelBahn’s Modular Model Rail System for Clubs, Groups, Organizations and Anarchies 11/21/2007 YodelBahn.com Andreas K. Hohl

YodelBahn’s Modular Model Rail System for Clubs, Groups, Organizations and Anarchies (YBMMRSfCGOA - I love acronyms)

Drawings not to scale – Photos & drawings retain all copyrights

CONTENTS

Introduction ............................................................................. 2

GENERAL INFORMATION ......................................................... 3

MODULE CONSTRUCTION REQUIREMENTS ............................. 4

GENERAL CONSTRUCTION NOTES ........................................... 5

MODULE BASE CONSTRUCTION ............................................... 6

LAYING THE TRACK TO MAKE ENDS MEET, so to speak. ........ 10

UNIVERSAL CONCEPT ............................................................. 10

Going into the Curve .............................................................. 12

OVERHEAD (CATENARY) AND UNDER TRACK ........................ 14

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS ............................................................. 16

The Bus Lines ..................................................................... 19

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS (Part Deux) .......................................... 20

Power Hookup ‐ Going all DC ............................................. 20

Power Hookup ‐ Going all Digital ....................................... 21

Power Hookup ‐ Universal ................................................. 22

Power Hookup – Universal Digital (Marklin Digital and DCC) ........................................................................................... 22

MODULE SUPPORT (A.K.A. THE LEGS) ................................... 23

Concept 1: .......................................................................... 24

Concept 2: .......................................................................... 25

INTRODUCTION

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MODULE CONSTRUCTION REQUIREMENTS

1. A module shall have the overall dimensions as follows:

Length: 24 to 96 inches in increments of 12 inches but no less than 24 inches

Width: 12 to 36 inches (exceptions may include up to 48 inches, hence a typical 4’ x 8’ module – see NOTE below.)

[NOTE: At 36", a module tends to be deep and cumbersome to transport and set up. It is best to leave it at 24" max. depth (width). But if your club has a good method of transporting large and bulky items, go for it

and make a couple of 4’ x 8’ modules for a really cool main station.]

2. A main double track shall be provided for "through" operation. These shall extend the length of the module, less 2" at each end to provide for an adjustable track section. Four (4) inches of tracks at each end shall be parallel to the front edge of the module. Along these four inches the distance between the tracks shall be 2" center to center. The distance from the front edge of the module to the center of the first track shall be four inches and six inches to the second track. Any curvature in the mainline track shall be a minimum of 24" radius. The last track nail should be located from two to four inches from the end of the track. This will allow the track to be shifted slightly sideways if necessary. Of course there are some instances where this may vary. (See: Universal Concept)

3. Main line track shall be gauged according to NMRA code 100 or NEM standards.

4. Electrical connections shall be provided at each end of the module to connect main line tracks. The main line shall be wired according to the Electrical wiring diagram. (note: Please see “Wiring Specifications” Section for details)

5. All fixed controls and panels to be on the rear of the module.

6. Main line tracks shall be insulated from each other as well as their catenary lines.



7. The use of Code 100 Flex track and Peco (Insulfrog, not Electrofrog type!) switches are recommended. (Since publication of these standards many high quality Code 83 systems came into use. If you decide to adopt Code 83, the module must be made compatible with Code 100 rail height at point of module assembly, but for this purpose is not recommended).

GENERAL CONSTRUCTION NOTES

1. Portable modules should be lightweight to facilitate moving, yet extra strong to prevent warping and cracking. Use good grade lumber, screws (not nails!) and glue for all joints.

2. At the end of each module (where tracks stop for joiner section) , do not ballast roadbed surface to end of module in order to allow placement of adjustable track

section like Fleischmann Profigleis #6010, or custom built track segment inserts. (Covered under Cool Ideas)

3. Modules are joined not only by clamps and legs, but are bolted together by 1/4" x 2 1/2” lag bolts (Don’t forget the washers and nuts.). These are located 2-1/2" from TOP OF RAILS and 5" (center) from outside border of module (viewing public side) and 14" (center) from first bolt hole. Making a jig for accuracy is highly recommended as this joint alignment is critical.

As opposed to using standard hex nuts, one could use “wing nuts” for faster and tool-less installation.



MODULE BASE CONSTRUCTION

Keeping in mind that weight and bulkiness are a big factor in module construction, it is not easy to consistently solve all such problems every time and under every circumstance.

In most cases the following concept will suffice and make module life more durable as well as easier to work with during layout setups and tear downs.

The module framing should be done using standard 1”x4” pine, available at just about any hardware store. Modules should be ribbed at about every 12” to a max of 16” depending on the final weight to be placed on such a module.

The outside dimensions of the frame should be exact, hence, 12”(1 foot), 24”(2 feet), 36”(3 Feet) or 48”(4 Feet) by 24”(2 feet), 48”(4 feet), 96”(8 feet).

Hence, if you decide to build a 48” x 96” also known as a 4 by 8, then you better make sure you have plenty of strong friends to help you move the thing, not to mention a vehicle that can carry such a beast.

There are some tricks to doing long modules such as 8’ longs. For example, one could build 2 modules with the dimensions of 1’ x 4’ and hinge them together so that they fold into the full length. It’s all been done and very successfully at that!

An example: This module takes it a step further. It has a 1”x6” backside height as the intention is to create a hill environment. The tracks will be laid towards the 1” x 3” side yet, still on the 1” x 4” ribs.

Once the rib framing is done, one can lay the base for the track portion. In this case, a 3/8” plywood base is used. One could use other materials as well such a Gator Board (expensive) or particle board. Try to stay away from the softer sheet material (MDF or blockboard for example) as it tends to warp or even fall apart if it gets even just a little wet. It’s also in some cases toxic to work with when cutting.

The next step is to lay the track. Remember to leave 2”



at both ends for those adapter connector pieces. In this case it is assumed to do both with Code 100, but simply substitute the inside track with the Marklin K Flex trak for the UNIVERAL CONCEPT. Underlay both with standard HO scale cork roadbed.

Installing the cork roadbed will accomplish three things:

1. It will make trains run a bit quieter. 2. It will give a nice realistic roadbed look and feel

which can easily be decorated later. 3. It gives a great material to push the track mounting

nails into.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Never glue the cork roadbed or the track down, always use nails. Nails for this purpose are available at any hobby shop. You may need to make adjustments later, hence, glue won’t be very forgiving in such an instance. Once everything is finalized, the ballast you will glue on will also help hold things in place. Never glue or ballast around any switches or turnouts. The odds are high that you will damage the full functionality of such devices by doing so.

So they say a picture paints a thousand words:

DON’T FORGET: The key is that if you participate in a modular group, you will need to transport these modules from time to time. Make them portable or as portable as possible.

An excerpt from this author’s website at www.yodelbahn.com (ok, so this is a shameless plug too.)

Needful tools - or tools you just can't do without:

• A saw to cut 1" x X" lumber. This could be a "chop saw" or it could be a hand saw. - Use the hand saw if you want to build up your muscles in one arm. This is also a good way to explain to the "other half" that you are working out.

• A power drill, or better yet a drill/screw gun with battery pack - This is a multipurpose tool. It will drill holes provided you put drill bits in it and it will screw in screws with a screw bit. This is a must have tool! It will be used for many things over and over again. Why a battery powered tool? This way you don't trip over the power cord. Power cords are known to be in the exact place where you least need them.

• Some C-clamps - These things help hold stuff together. Very handy to have around.



• "Trigger happy" clamps - ok, these are not really called that. They are adjustable clamps that are tightened simply by pulling a trigger. These are optional but highly recommended. There are several manufacturers that make these.

• 90 degree corner clamp - Really handy to have and explained on the next page. (Hey, there's even a couple of pictures!) - but again, these are optional and can be replaced by other possibilities.

• • A flat head and Philips head screwdriver set.

- There is just no way out of having these. • A sledge hammer - This is mandatory! Just by

having it sit there, it will help convince the wood to do what you want it to do. :)

• Wood glue - You do want to glue wood joints as often as possible. Screws will loosen over time if you keep moving things. The glue will help keep things together. DO NOT USE WHITE GLUE for this. White glue is not water resistant and will fail over time. A little humidity, some stress and it's over!

Disclaimer: The author of this, reserves the right to forget, omit and ah forget certain things from time to time. He also reserves the right to tell long and irrelevant stories as well. Not everything maybe required, but heck, it is from experience and it worked for this author. Oh and yes, once in a while, he may msipell some wrods too. :)

The last couple of pages make it seem like it is a snap to build such a wonderful thing. But let me give you a couple of tips that will probably help you avoid frustration, hours of re-do's and some things that you may wish to really know details about.

Assembling the structure was done as follows:

1. Cut the boards with a chop saw when possible - you really want right angles everywhere. It will make life a breeze!

2. When cutting the cross brace boards, try to cut two to three of them together as this will ensure their lengths to be exact with each other.

3. If you can, get some corner vices or clamps as these will help hold the corners together and make sure they are at 90 degrees. Or simply use a piece of 2x2 and c-clamp it into the corner. Do anything to make this square!

4. Work on a flat surface! If you have a workbench this big, get rid of it, you will need the space for your layout. :) I did my work on the garage (cold concrete) floor. Ask my knees, they know about that. Another option is one of those folding tables (6ft) that are available at some stores. But if using one of those, make sure it is fairly stable or sturdy so that if you decide to use that convincing tool known as a sledge hammer... ok, you really won't ever use such a tool. :)

5. Get some good wood glue, not white glue for the next step!

6. I screwed and glued the pieces together. Hence, clamp the pieces at 90 degrees with glue already

applied, then pre-drill holes (2 to 3) with a countersink, and use wood screws or course drywall screws (cheaper). (1 5/8" to 2" in length). If you do not pre-drill, the wood will

split! This is typically soft pine, and soft pine will split pretty easily if you just drive a screw into it. After screwing this together, wipe off any glue that protrudes out of the seams.

7. Let this dry, take your time and have a nice cool glass of ice tea or a good cold beer.



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Many have been led to believe (see ETE specs at www.ete.org) that Marklin K-track is perfect for DC operation. There are several problems with this philosophy, and since I don’t need to kiss up to anyone and really don’t care about modeling politics, here are the plain facts:

1. Marklin K track is not that easily converted to DC.

2. Marklin K track has different dimensions than standard DC when it comes to axle width. We are talking about 2 to 3/10ths of a millimeter.

Now it doesn’t seem like much, only 2 to 3/10ths of a mm. But the fact is, it is a lot when it comes to wheelbases of rolling stock. Here are some examples:

1. Ever tried to run some DC rolling stock over a Marklin switch at a decent speed lately? 50/50 chance of derailment.

2. Ever noticed that your run of the mill DC rolling stock sometimes even jumps off on straight runs, and let’s not even talk about curves.

The reason is that normal or NEM standards for DC (ROCO, Lilliput, Trix (a Marklin company) and so on is different in wheelbase width than Marklin. It is wider by 2 to 3/10ths of a mm!

NEM (DC)

Marklin (AC)

Hence, the only way to keep the

trains running smoothly, making everyone happy and quite simply enjoying this hobby would be to offer up the best of both worlds when it comes to building modules for use in a club, organization or anarchy. ☺

So why not follow a standard that provides for both AC and DC cleanly? Why not make it so that even Digital stuff will work on both? It’s all possible, but it takes a bit of time and having to jump into the other realm. So you Marklin guys and gals need to jump over to DC for half of your module, and you DC guys need to jump over to Marklin for half of your module.

Wiring is no different for either and this concept will keep it as simple as possible, I hope.

Really the biggest issue is not laying the track, but which track segments to order from Marklin to get the proper dimensions. The ETE specs went as far as dimensioning the modules in metric so that they would not have to deal with this issue. But since we are all rebels here and like to use standard sized lumber (4x8 sheets) and not want to cut everything to death, I believe we can cope. So does Marklin. This is why they offer so many different lengths of track. That could be one solution. The better solution is simply get some 2205 Flex K track (.9 meter longs or 900mm) and cut them to the desired size combinations. Of course you will need to get the proper clips to join them as well as the power clips to hook up wiring as these tracks or rails cannot be soldered (they are made of steel).

Should you decide to use C type track, then it’s another story. You will need to calculate the combinations out. First convert the length needed to mm and then look up the combination at this nifty site: http://www.marklin-users.net/downloads/CLengths.pdf while remembering that an inch equals 25.4 mm.

So for example: an 8 foot module, would most likely require 96” – 4” (remember the ends need a little open area) so 92” or 2336.8 mm – maybe even 2337 mm on a warm day. According to the chart this would require the following c-tracks combined:

4 x 24236 (236.1 mm each) = 944.40

3 x 24077 (77.5 mm each) = 232.50

1 x 24071 (70.8 mm each) = 70.80

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You have two parallel tracks with overhead catenary. Notice the catenary swings in and out in a “Z” type configuration along the length of the run. This is important to do as it will equalize the wear and tear on the pantographs running under it. This is more thoroughly explained in the Sommerfeldt guide. Important dimensions to remember are the first pole at either end of the module must be 94mm (3 11/16”) from the edge or end of the module. The “X” dimension or dimension of the track centerline to the pole centerline is determined by the type of pole you plan to use. Again this is found in the Sommerfeldt Guide and is also given as a mark on the Sommerfeldt pole jig. Sommerfeldt poles are all metal, hence they conduct electricity and hence they can be connected underneath the module using a wire with a loop connector on it. (Electrical crimp tool kits usually come with a variety of them.) Simply slip the loop hole connector with wire over the screw end of the pole (underneath the module), then slip on the washer (provided by Sommerfeldt) and screw on the nut (also provided by Sommerfeldt). You now have a lead connection that is nicely hidden for your catenary. I recommend doing this at least at both ends. If it is a long module, over 4’ for example, you can tie all the poles together for one track by simply wrapping a wire from pole to pole before screwing the poles in. The object is to maintain excellet connectivity on all poles so that all the catenary is nicely electrified. The same goes for each rail (See Wire Drops on Pic). On the standard code 100 type nickel silver track, you can solder the wire drops directly to each rail (Track 1 Green and Magenta lines). Unfortunately Marklin K track is made of stainless steel and cannot be soldered. Hence you will need to use the Marklin connectors for this purpose. (See Marklin catalog for options. Track 2 Cyan and Red lines.) So why use Marklin track? This will be explained as we get more into the UNIVERSAL CONCEPT later.



Modular fun – for real… albeit these modules are full DC implementation:

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

Based on the prior section, you now have a total of 6 wires to deal with. We will implement the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) method for connections.

The enclosed diagrams are for simple yet consistent wiring practices. The goals of using this method are several.

A) Economic

B) Universally (Marklin and/or DC) compliant

C) Easy to understand

D) Easy to install

E) Easy to maintain.

By just keeping a few rules in mind, this will make your module fit nicely with others, while actually working electrically.

Simple rule #1: All yard and sidings (side spurs) must be isolated or insulated (electrically) from the two main lines on any given module.

Simple rule #2: Catenary must be isolated not only from the sidings and spurs, but also between the two main lines. (If we were running strictly DC, then we would not need to worry about this as the Catenary can become a common in such a case. However, since this design is universal, we need to split the two catenary segments electrically, which you will see is a no-brainer.)

Simple rule #3: For DC only – the right hand rail of travel will always be the positive (+) pole.

Simple rule #4: Have fun!!!!! This is the most forgotten rule in this wonderful hobby. This is not optional! You will and must have fun.

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You now have two tracks running around this circle, Track 1 and Track 2, DC and AC, trains running Clockwise, and trains running counterclockwise or what I like to call “Modular Fate”.

Rules of Modular Fate TRACK 1 TRACK 2

a.k.a. the outside track, nearest to the public viewer.

a.k.a. the inside track, nearest to the engineer. The engineer in this case is the guy or gal manning the power supply or transformer.

DC – Direct Current – runs Roco, Fleischmann, Liliput etc..

AC – Alternating Current – runs Marklin. Has a center rail.

Trains run clockwise Trains run counterclockwise

Use MALE Connector on the LEFT end of module from the engineer’s point of view or inside the circle.

Use MALE Connector on the RIGHT end of module from the engineer’s point of view or inside the circle.

Use FEMALE Connector on the RIGHT end of module from the engineer’s point of view or inside the circle.

Use FEMALE Connector on the LEFT end of module from the engineer’s point of view or inside the circle.

If this rule set is followed by all module builders in your club, organization or anarchy, you will be able to setup in no time, and best of all, no one can plug things in the wrong way! Yupee!

Helpful Hint: One more thing. At the end of each module where you terminate the connections to the plugs, give at least 12” of extra length so that the plugs will reach each other from module to module without any issues. Otherwise you will be finding yourself making

extensions. Not that this ever happened to me or anything of that sort.

You can do this easily by putting a connector strip at each end of the module to tie things together. The connector strip should have at least 6, but I really recommend 8 connections. I will explain the last two or the additional two later.

It’s now later. So here is what the additional connector strips are good for: lighting circuits. You need two poles for such circuits; hence you will need two places on the connector strips to tie them in to the bus line on the module.

So in a nutshell, you will actually create on any given module at least 3 bus lines.

1. For track 1 – consists of 3 wires, 1 for negative, 1 for positive and 1 for catenary

2. For track 2 – 3 wires, 1 for common, 1 for hot, 1 for catenary

3. For lighting – 2 wires, whether AC or DC, 2 wires suffice.

Now, one would think, “Do I need to put another set of plugs on each end for those two wires for the lights?” Here is the answer to the options:

1. Yes. Using the same Molex 4 pin, but you only use 2 of the pins on each end like this:

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gauge for low voltage applications. I really do not recommend Marklin type wire for larger layouts of this nature. The gauge induces tremendous voltage drops over distance. Here are some examples of wires to use for this task:

Speaker wire: Minimum 16 gauge stranded – I have found spools of this stuff cheap at Big Lots. Do not buy this at Radio Shack or other such retailers; you will pay through the nose. Another cool place to get this is at Harbor Freight. They run specials every once in a while.

Low Voltage Malibu lighting wire: Yes, believe it or not this can be acquired fairly cheaply at Lowes or Home Depot. Again this is stranded wire and comes as large as 10 gauge. A bit thick but very little voltage drop.

Electronic Store Blowout shelves: Many times some of the true electronic component stores such as Orvac in Orange County, CA have a “blowout” shelf and one can find good deals there as well.

Fry’s Electronics: Phoenix, AZ – all over CA. Check their special frequently.

Wire is wire! So if you can get your hands on a spool with a decent gauge, do so. Even if you don’t need it at the moment, you will be glad you have it when your next module comes into construction. Copper is not getting any cheaper.

While you are checking out these stores, look for any other necessities as well such as other connectors, solder, soldering irons, and very importantly; continuity testers (volt/ohm meters).

Remember, what you do within your module is totally up to you. The only thing that matters for compliance to fit with others is the dimensions and the plugs on the end. So go wild and have fun!

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS (PART DEUX)

Ok now that we have the wiring all figured out, we do need to at some point connect power to all of this. There is a bit of magic to this, but it becomes fairly easy if the

plug standard was followed properly throughout the entire layout of modules.

POWER HOOKUP ‐ GOING ALL DC

This section is for an all DC modular setup, meaning both tracks are strictly DC. For universal setups (AC and DC see next section “Power Hookup – Going Universal”)

The following wiring schematic applies and will need to be done precisely so as to not start fires, cause shorts and/or blow up power supplies/transformers.

Please note that typical transformers and power supplies come with several outputs. Usually they are as follows:

2 connections for each track: a positive and a negative pole. Some power supply transformers come with dual everything, for example 2 speed control knobs, hence two track outputs, again with positive and negative poles for each track. READ INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE MANUFACTURER!!!!!

Typically an additional 2 connectors for accessories – this would be for lighting circuits and accessories. (Usually these are also AC)

Whether you are using a single throttle or dual throttle unit makes no difference. The important thing is the connection of the poles and how they connect to the modular layout.

It is important to understand that when using dual DC tracks, we will make the catenary a “COMMON” circuit. Hence, even though on the modules we have separate bus lines for each catenary, they will be one common source of power. But instead of doing the single buss line on the module, we will tie them together in the connection “harness” here.

There are instances where one might wish to keep the catenary lines separated and unique. But for simplicity sake, this makes life very easy when it comes to installing the actual catenary as one does not need to insulate or isolate the two lines on the modules in the case of a crossover switch etc.

To run two-track with catenary, you will need four(4) independent throttles. (or 4 transformers) One could get 2 double throttle transformers, or 4 individual ones. This

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YodelBahn’s Modular Model Rail System Module Design... · 2016-09-28 · YodelBahn’s Modular...

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Transcript of YodelBahn’s Modular Model Rail System Module Design... · 2016-09-28 · YodelBahn’s Modular...