Yellowstone & Grand Teton · Benedict Walker, Bradley Mayhew, Carolyn McCarthy, Christopher Pitts...

Benedict Walker, Bradley Mayhew, Carolyn McCarthy, Christopher Pitts

Yellowstone & Grand Teton

NATIONAL PARKS

YellowstoneNational Park

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Grand TetonNational Park

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Around Yellowstonep129

AroundGrand Teton

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Yellowstone & Grand Teton’s National Parks’ Top 20 . . . . . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . . 18If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Month by Month . . . . . . . 23Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Travel with Children . . . . 39Travel with Pets . . . . . . . 43

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK . . . 46Day Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Mammoth Country . . . . . . 51Roosevelt Country . . . . . . . 57Canyon Country . . . . . . . . . 60Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . . 63Norris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Geyser Country . . . . . . . . . 66Bechler Region . . . . . . . . . . 69Overnight Hikes . . . . . . . 70Canyon Country . . . . . . . . . 74Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . . 75Geyser Country . . . . . . . . . 77Bechler Region . . . . . . . . . . 79

Other Overnight Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Driving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Cycling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Mammoth Country . . . . . . 82Canyon Country . . . . . . . . . 83Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . . 83Geyser Country . . . . . . . . . 84Other Activities . . . . . . . 85Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Mammoth Country . . . . . . 90Roosevelt Country . . . . . . . 94Canyon Country . . . . . . . . . 97Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . 101Norris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105

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Contents

Geyser Country . . . . . . . . 108Bechler Region . . . . . . . . . .117Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Mammoth Country . . . . . 119Roosevelt Country . . . . . . .120Canyon Country . . . . . . . . 121Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . 121Norris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Geyser Country . . . . . . . . 123Bechler Region . . . . . . . . . 124Eating & Drinking . . . . . . 124Mammoth Country . . . . . 124Roosevelt Country . . . . . . 124Canyon Country . . . . . . . . 125Geyser Country . . . . . . . . 125Lake Country . . . . . . . . . . 126Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . 127

AROUND YELLOWSTONE . . . . 129Beartooth Route . . . . . . 132Billings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Red Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Beartooth Highway . . . . . 136Chief Joseph Scenic Byway . . . . . . . . . . 139Cooke City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Wapiti Route . . . . . . . . . .141Cody . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Wapiti Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 146Paradise Valley Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Livingston . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Paradise Valley . . . . . . . . . 149Gardiner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Gallatin Route . . . . . . . . 154Bozeman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Gallatin Valley . . . . . . . . . . 158Hebgen & Quake Lakes . . . . . . . . . . . 161West Yellowstone . . . . . . . 163

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK . . . 168Day Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . .172Colter Bay Region . . . . . . 172Central Tetons . . . . . . . . . . 175The Tetons via Idaho . . . . 178Moose–Wilson Road . . . . 180John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway . . . . . . 182Overnight Hikes . . . . . . 182Cycling . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Summer Activities . . . . 190Winter Activities . . . . . . 193Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway . . . . . . 196Grassy Lake Road . . . . . . . 196Colter Bay Region . . . . . . 197Eastern Slopes . . . . . . . . . 199Central Tetons . . . . . . . . . . 199Moose–Wilson Road . . . .203Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway . . . . . .204Colter Bay Region . . . . . .205Eastern Slopes . . . . . . . . .206Central Tetons . . . . . . . . . . 207Moose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Eating & Drinking . . . . . 207John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway . . . . . . 207Colter Bay Region . . . . . . 207Central Tetons . . . . . . . . . .208Moose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209

AROUND GRAND TETON . . . . .211Jackson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Jackson Hole . . . . . . . . . . . 221Upper Wind River Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 224Idaho’s Teton Valley . . . . . 224

The Parks Today . . . . . . 228

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230

Geology . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239

Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244

Conservation . . . . . . . . . . 253

Clothing & Equipment . . . . . . . . . 256

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 260

Transportation . . . . . . . 270

Health & Safety . . . . . . 274

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 287

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESTravel with Children . . 39

Geology . . . . . . . . . . . 239

Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . 244

Clothing & Equipment . . . . . . . . 256

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Itineraries

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Grand TetonNational Park

YellowstoneNational

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Lone StarGeyser

Fairy Falls

NorrisGeyserBasin

BunsenPeak

OldFaithful Inn

Mammoth

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MadisonRiver

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Jenny Lake Drive

Yellowstone & Grand Teton Overview

Start in Mammoth, taking the morning to climb Bunsen Peak for the fantastic views, before paying a brief visit to Mammoth Hot Springs and driving to Norris Geyser Basin. Continue to your reserved campsite at Madison for some early evening elk- and bison-spotting or fly-fishing on the Madison River.

Spend the next two days in Geyser Country, hiking to either Fairy Falls or Sentinel Meadows for backcountry geysers and bison. Stay the night at historic Old Faithful Inn to experience the Upper Geyser Basin and the next day cycle out to Lone Star Geyser to catch a backcountry eruption.

Drive south into Grand Teton and search for trumpeter swans at Oxbow Bend. Jenny Lake Dr is worth a linger for its awesome views of the Central Tetons. Enjoy a family trip to forested String and Leigh Lakes or join the crowds for Grand Teton’s most popular day hike up Cascade Canyon to Lake Solitude. Finally, cycle around Mormon Row for iconic views of barns and bison before heading south to Jackson for some R&R.

1 WEEK

25©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The southern loop takes in epic Yellow-stone Lake, the park’s greatest geysers and a dip in the Firehole River. Starting in West Yellowstone adds 28 miles.

Start the day with a scenic drive around Yellowstone Lake and then branch west from West Thumb over the Continen-tal Divide into Geyser Country. Check predicted eruption times at the visitor center to catch Old Faithful and others of the Upper Geyser Basin spouters. Head north to Midway Geyser Basin and admire Grand Prismatic Spring, then blow off steam with the kids in the thermally heated Firehole Swimming Area further north.

Continue north to the Porcelain Basin hot springs at Norris, grabbing a quick lunch at peaceful Norris Meadows picnic area, before turning east for views of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from Uncle Tom’s Trail and Artist Point. Swing south through Hayden Valley for some prime sunset wildlife-watching before enjoying the park’s best food at Lake Yellowstone Hotel Dining Room.

1 DAY Yellowstone Loop, South

This route through the north of the park takes in some premier wildlife-watching, views of the Grand Canyon of the Yellow-stone and a sampler of geysers and hot springs. You’ll need to start early and stay out late to fit it all in.

Head straight to the Lamar Valley around dawn to look for wolves, bears and bison. Grab a ‘hiker’s breakfast’ at Roosevelt Lodge, then drive up to Dun-raven Pass to make the three- to four-hour return hike up Mt Washburn for the park’s best views. Picnic amid the pines at shady Cascade Lake picnic area or grab lunch on the go at Canyon.

Gawp at the thundering falls and rusted colors of the Grand Canyon of the Yel-lowstone from Uncle Tom’s Trail and Artist Point on the southern rim, before driving to the geysers and hot springs of Norris Geyser Basin. Then swing north toward Mammoth, stopping en route to watch for moose at Willow Park. Stroll the boardwalks at dusk to admire surreal Palette Springs and Canary Springs at Mammoth Hot Springs, before collaps-ing in the bar back at Roosevelt Lodge for a well-deserved Old Faithful Ale.

1 DAY

YellowstoneNational

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Mt Washburn

Cascade LakePicnic Area

Willow Park

RooseveltLodge

LakeYellowstone

Hotel

OldFaithful

GrandPrismatic

Spring

Mammoth HotSprings

NorrisGeyserBasin

DunravenPass

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#•LamarValley

#•Porcelain

Basin

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SwimmingArea

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ContinentalDivide

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HaydenValley

ShoshoneLake

YellowstoneLake

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Yellowstone Loop, NorthYellowstone Loop,South

Yellowstone Loop, North

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Grand TetonNational

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Snake RiverCanyon

Moose Ponds

StagecoachBar;

Nora's FishCreek Inn

InspirationPoint

Plains &PanoramasRoute

Table Mountain

Hole inOne Loop

Jackson

Fuel up with a classic breakfast of pan-fried trout at Wilson’s Nora’s Fish Creek Inn, then saddle your road bike to ride the Hole in One loop – extra points for start-ing from Wilson. Post-ride, opt for a brew at the award-winning Snake River Brewing Co, in Jackson.

On day two, hike out to scenic views at Inspiration Point and take the ferry back for an easy return. Detour to Moose Ponds to snag a glimpse of its namesake ungulates. For sunset views, rumble your pickup along the dirt roads of the Plains & Panoramas route.

On day three, take a white-water raft-ing trip down the Snake River Canyon. Later, treat yourself to a pan-roasted elk chop at Snake River Grill and take in some culture at the modern Center for the Arts, both in Jackson.

On your final day, get an early start to power up Table Mountain for a challeng-ing hike with big backside views of the Tetons. Make your last night count at the Stagecoach Bar, the liveliest roadhouse around.

4 DAYS

Jackson Hole & the Tetons

Start with a hearty breakfast in Moose at Dornan’s Chuckwagon, a pioneer-style camp serving flapjacks alfresco with great Teton views. Then glimpse the area’s fascinating homesteading history at Menor’s Ferry; audio tours are available for cell phones. For excellent photographs, Schwabacher’s Landing offers the best panoramas of the Teton’s toothy Cathedral group.

Get off the road and into the wilderness with a short hike to the glacial moraines cupping Taggart and Bradley Lakes. Bring swimsuits and take a dip from Taggart’s eastern edge if it’s warm enough. After-wards, take the short drive to the Log Chapel of the Sacred Heart and spread your blanket for a picnic at the edge of the pines.

Nearby, there’s incredible Native Ameri-can beadwork at the Indian Arts Mu-seum. End your outing watching wildlife at Willow Flats; there’s usually a moose munching in the dusky light. Finally, cap your day at Jackson Lake Lodge and down a huckleberry margarita at the Blue Heron.

1 DAY

Grand TetonNational

Park

Log Chapelof theSacred Heart

Schwabacher'sLanding

Willow Flats

Dornan'sChuckwagon

Menor'sFerry

Indian ArtsMuseum

Jackson LakeLodge

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Above: Cascade Canyon (p202)

Left: Black Pool (p104), West Thumb Geyser Basin

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Add this three-day scenic drive onto the Yellowstone, Big Loop itinerary and you’ll get a fantastic week of scenic drives, park highlights and even a trip through Paradise.

From Red Lodge, allow half a day to drive the US’s most scenic 70 miles, the Beartooth Hwy, stopping to stretch your legs at Beartooth Lake. Overnight in Cooke City, then enter the park for some early wildlife-watching in Lamar Valley and a hunt for petrified trees on the Fossil Forest Trail, before joining the Yellow-stone, Big Loop itinerary at Canyon for two days’ excursions to Mammoth.

Heading north from Mammoth on day six, squeeze in a morning rafting trip or horseback ride from Gardiner before continuing north through the lovely Para-dise Valley to relax with a hot soak and gourmet dinner at Chico Hot Springs. Continue to Bozeman on your last day to spend a few hours at the Museum of the Rockies and do some last-minute shopping.

1 WEEK

Yellowstone to Paradise

From Mammoth head to some early morn-ing wildlife viewing in the Lamar Valley before enjoying the crowd-free views of the Narrows on the Yellowstone River Picnic Area hike. Continue south to Canyon to take the South Rim Trail & Ribbon Lake hike before overnighting in Canyon Village.

The next day try some more early morn-ing wildlife-watching in Hayden Valley before continuing south to hike Elephant Back Mountain for great views of Yellow-stone Lake. After a lakeshore picnic on the sand bars around Gull Point, continue south to the hot springs of West Thumb Geyser Basin before heading west across the Continental Divide to overnight at Old Faithful Inn.

Spend day three visiting the geyser basins, and the next day drive to Mammoth via Norris Geyser Basin, arriving at lunchtime to stroll the travertine terraces at Mammoth. Either take a guided walk through historical Fort Yellowstone or a dusk hike to spot wildlife on the Beaver Ponds trail.

4 DAYS

Chico HotSprings

Museum ofthe Rockies

RedLodge

GardinerMammoth

Willow Park

Old Faithful Inn

Paradise Valley

Norris Geyser Basin

West Thumb Geyser Basin

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#• Elephant Back Mountain

#•Hayden Valley

#• South Rim Trail &Ribbon Lake

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YellowstoneRiver PicnicArea

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Yellowstone Lake

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Fossil ForestTrail

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Yellowstone, Big Loop

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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WRITER THANKSBradley MayhewThanks to the almost-always professional Carolyn McCarthy for being a dream co- writer, and for joining me on that Shoshone Lake trek. Rick Hoeninghausen and Cameron Walker of Yellowstone National Park Lodges were gener-ous with their time. Cheers to Celeste, Wendy and Sandra for making the Ice Lake author meeting such fun. Goodbye Montana, you have been one of my favorite places and I will miss you.

Carolyn McCarthyI am very thankful for another opportunity to explore this amazing wilderness and call it

my home for a while. Thanks to the Climbers Ranch for providing an excellent base camp. I am also grateful to Andrew White, the San-telices family, Drew Hardesty and the friends who shared my campfire. Lastly, a shout out goes to co-writer Bradley Mayhew for his dedi-cation in the field.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Cover photograph: Brown bear, West Yellowstone, Maresa Pryor-Luzier/AWL ©

Behind the Scenes

THIS BOOKThis 5th edition of Lonely Planet’s Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks guide was curated by Benedict Walker, and researched and written by Bradley Mayhew, Carolyn McCarthy and Christo-pher Pitts. Bradley and Caro-lyn also wrote the previous two

editions. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Ben BucknerSenior Product Editors Victoria Smith, Kate MathewsProduct Editor Carolyn BoicosSenior Cartographer Alison LyallBook Designer Jessica RoseAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, James Bainbridge, Anne

Mulvaney, Lauren O’Connell, Maja VatrićCartographers Anita Banh, Corey HutchisonCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Anthony Barreiro, Evan Godt, Nancy Leon, Anne Mason, Clinton Milroy, Theresa Montag, Peter Mutton, Monique Perrin, Alison Ridgway, Ross Taylor


281

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 260accommodations 260-5, see

also individual locationsactivities 22, 23-4, 30-8, see

also individual activitiesair travel 270Alaska Basin 180, 187altimeters 257altitude sickness 275amoebic dysentery 275Amphitheater Lake 177animals 244-51, see also

individual speciesAntelope Bear Management

Area 74Antelope Flats 182Apollinaris Spring 94apps 249, 257, 258area codes 267art galleries, see galleriesArtist Paint Pots 106Artist Point 60, 99Astringent Creek 64astronomy 122ATMs 269

BBack Basin 106backcountry permits

Grand Teton National Park 189

Yellowstone National Park 71

backcountry trips 33, 20-1, 116

backpacking 30-2, see also hikes (overnight)

Beartooth Highway 137, 139

Gallatin Valley 159Grand Teton National Park

10, 11

Paradise Valley 149-50Yellowstone National Park

16, 16backpacks 257bald eagles 249Barronette Peak 95Basin Lakes 187bathrooms 267bear spray 259Bearpaw Lake 175bears 229, 244-5, 8-9

safety 275-6Beartooth Highway 16,

136-9 138, 16Beartooth Route 132-41Beaver Lake 94Bechler Meadows 70Bechler Region

accommodations 124hiking 69-70, 79-81, 70, 80sights 14, 117, 14

beer 133, 157Beula Lake 70bicycling, see cycling Big Sky Resort 13, 158bighorn sheep 248Billings 132-4birds 249-50, see also

individual speciesBiscuit Basin 66, 114Biscuit Basin Overlook 67bison 247-8, 276-7, 72, 184bites 277Black Canyon of the

Yellowstone 81Black Growler Steam Vent

106Black Sand Basin 114Blacktail Butte 199Blacktail Ponds 93, 182boating, see also canoeing,

kayaking, raftingGrand Teton National Park

190, 192-3, 202Yellowstone National

Park 85-7bobcats 249

Boiling River 91books 228

geology 241history 231, 233, 237plants 251wildlife 250

Bozeman 154-8Bradley Lake 178breweries 133, 157Bridger, Jim 86brucellosis 248budgeting 19Buffalo Bill 145Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway

146Buffalo Bill State Park 142Bunsen Peak 94bus travel 270-1, 272business hours 266

CCalcite Springs 57Calcite Springs Overlook 96campfire programs 40camping 117-18, 205-6,

260-3canoeing 35, 86, 87, 137,

175, 192, 202, 35 see also kayaking

Canyon Country 98-9accommodations 121cycling 83drinking 125food 125hiking 60-3, 74-5, 61, 74sights 97-101

Canyon Village 97, 100car travel 18, 271-3, see also

scenic drivesGrand Teton National

Park 210road distances 46, 129,

168, 211, 273Yellowstone National

Park 128Cascade Canyon 202, 28

Cathedral Rock 54cats 249Celestine Pool 115cell phones 18Central Tetons 200-1

accommodations 207food 208-9hiking 175-8, 176sights 199-203

Chico Hot Springs 149, 21Chief Joseph Scenic Byway

139-40children, travel with 15,

39-42Christian Pond 197churches

Chapel of the Transfiguration 194

Log Chapel of the Sacred Heart 194

Mammoth Chapel 93Clarks Fork Canyon 140Clear Lake 60climate 18, 23-4, 264climate change 254climbing 32-3

Bozeman 155Cody 142Grand Teton National Park

12, 190, 12Jackson Hole 222

clothing 256Cody 141-6, 143Cody Stampede 24Colter Bay Region 198

accommodations 205-6food 207-8hiking 172-5, 174sights 197, 199

Colter, John 231-2, 233conservation 253-4consulates 269Continental Divide 104Continental Divide Trail 32Cooke City 140-1costs 95, 262, 264, 265


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courses 22, 265coyotes 245Cunningham Cabin 194Custer, General George

24, 132Custer’s Last Stand

Reenactment 24cycling 33-4, 272, see also

mountain bikingBunsen Peak Road &

Osprey Falls 83Fountain Freight Road

84-5Grand Teton National

Park 188-90Hole in One 189-90Jackson 216Mormon Row 188-9Mt Washburn 83Natural Bridge 83Old Gardiner Road 82-3Paradise Valley 150safety 279Shadow Mountain

189West Yellowstone 164Yellowstone National

Park 82-5

Ddangers, see safetyDead Indian Pass 139Death Canyon trail 180,

187-8dehydration 278disabilities, travelers with

260Disappointment Peak 177documentaries 228dogsledding 38, 149, 215Driggs 225driving, see car travel driving tours, see scenic

drivesdude ranches 261

Eeagles 249earthquakes 162, 243electricity 265elk 106, 213, 246-7, 3, 185Elk Park 106embassies 269emergencies 275entrance fees 18

environmental issues 228-9, 237-8, 242, 253-4

equipment 256-9evacuations 279events 23-4Everts, Truman 93Excelsior Pool, 114-15exchange rates 19

Ffarmers markets 220festivals 23-4films 228fir trees 251Firehole Canyon Drive

115-16Firehole Lake Drive 115Firehole Swimming Area

116fires 237-8, 253-4, 279fish 250-1fishing 17, 36

Cody 142Bozeman 155Gallatin River 17, 159-60,

17Grand Teton National

Park 193Jenny Lake 203Livingston 148Paradise Valley 150Wapiti Valley 147West Yellowstone 165Yellowstone National

Park 87-9Fishing Bridge 103Flagg Canyon 182Floating Island Lake 93fly-fishing, see fishingfood 265, see also

individual locationsfootwear 256Fort Yellowstone 91-2Fountain Flat Drive 115Fountain Paint Pot 115foxes 245free attractions 95free park admission 264frostbite 278fumaroles 242, see also

individual fumeroles

GGallatin Petrified Forest

150Gallatin River 17, 159-60,

17Gallatin Route 154-67Gallatin Valley 158-61

galleries, see also museums

Carbon County Arts Guild Gallery 134

Yellowstone Art Museum 132

Gardiner 151-4, 152-3Garnet Canyon 177-8, 190gay travelers 266geology 229, 239-43geothermal features 20,

239, 240-2, 277, see also fumeroles, geysers, hot springs

Geyser Country 110, 112-13accommodations 123cycling 84-5drinking 125fishing 89food 125hiking 66-9, 77-9, 67,

78-9sights 108-17skiing 90

Geyser Hill 111geysers 20, 107, 241, see

also hot springsAnemone Geyser 108Beehive Geyser 108Biscuit Basin 114Black Sand Basin 114Castle Geyser 111Daisy Geyser 108Geyser Hill 111Great Fountain Geyser

115Heart Lake Geyser

Basin 75Imperial Geyser 69Lone Star Geyser 68, 72Lower Geyser Basin

115-17Midway Geyser Basin

114-15Monument Geyser 66Norris Geyser Basin 17,

105-6, 17Old Faithful 9, 109, 9Porcelain Basin 106Queen’s Laundry Geyser

67-8Rustic Geyser 76safety 277Shoshone Geyser

Basin 78Solitary Geyser 111Spray Geyser 69Steamboat Geyser 106Whirligig Geyser 106

giardia 278

glaciation & glaciers 239, 243

Glacier Lake 134golden eagles 249Golden Gate 94GPS 256-7Grand Canyon of the

Yellowstone 10, 57, 97-9, 242, 10

Grand Prismatic Spring 12, 69, 114-15, 12, 15

Grand Targhee Ski & Summer Resort 226

Grand Teton 12, 190, 12Grand Teton Music Festival

24Grand Teton National Park

10, 12, 168-210, 170-1, 11, 12, 184, 185

accommodations 168, 204-7

backcountry permits 189boating 190, 192-3, 202climbing 12, 190, 12cycling 188-90drinking 207-9entrances 169food 207-9fishing 193hiking 168, 172-88history 236horseback riding 190internet resources 169reservations 169road distances 168rules & permits 210safety 208scenic drives 191, 194,

191, 194sights 196-204skiing 195-6snowmobiling 195tourist offices 209travel within 210wildlife-watching 182

Grand View Point 174-5, 197Grandview Point 98Granite Hot Springs 223-4Grant Village 104Grasshopper Glacier 243Grassy Lake Reservoir 196Grassy Lake Road 196Grizzly & Wolf Discovery

Center 163grizzly bears 163, 229,

244-5, 8-9Gros Ventre River 191Gros Ventre Slide Area

199, 223Gull Point Drive 103


283IN

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- HHHayden Valley 100-1, 72health 274-9Heart Mountain Relocation

Center 144heat exhaustion 278heatstroke 278Hebgen Lake 161-3Hemingway, Ernest 141Hermitage Point 173Heron Pond 173hikes (day) 31, see also

hikes (overnight), hiking, hiking (by region)

Avalanche Peak 65, 64Basin Lakes National

Recreation Trail 134Beartooth High Lakes

Trail 137Beaver Ponds Trail

51-2, 51Bechler Meadows & Falls

70, 70Blacktail Deer Creek Trail

57, 51Blue Danube Lake 161Buffalo Horn Pass 150Bunsen Peak 52-5, 51Cache Lake Trail 57, 51Cascade Lake &

Observation Peak 62-3, 61

Cinnamon Creek Trail 159

Colter Bay Lakeshore Trail 172

Death Canyon 180, 181DeLacy Creek Trail 69Devil’s Staircase to Alaska

Basin 179-80, 179Dogshead Trail 65Elbow Lake 150Elephant Back Mountain

63, 64Fairy Falls & Twin Buttes

68-9, 67Forces of the Northern

Range Self-Guiding Trail 93

Fossil Forest Trail 59, 58Garnet Canyon 177-8, 176Garnet Hill Trail 59-60Glacier Lake 134Goodwin Lake & Jackson

Peak 213Harlequin Lake Trail 116Hermitage Point 173-4,

174Howard Eaton Trail 56, 51

Ice Lake Trail 107John D Rockefeller Jr

Memorial Parkway 182Lake Fork Trail 134Lake Solitude 175-6, 176Lava Lake 159Leigh & Bearpaw Lakes

175, 176Lone Star Geyser 68, 67Lost Lake 58-9, 58Monument Geyser Basin

65-6, 66Mt Washburn 61-2, 61Mystic Falls & Biscuit

Basin 66-7, 67North Rim Trail 99Osprey Falls 55, 51Pebble Creek Trail 60Pelican Valley 63-5, 64Phelps Lake Trail 181-2,

181Pine Creek Lake 149Riddle Lake Trail 65Rock Island Lake 139Sentinel Meadows &

Queen’s Laundry Geyser 67-8, 67

Sepulcher Mountain 56, 51

Shoshone Lake (Lewis River Channel) Trail 65

Slough Creek Trail 60South Rim Trail & Ribbon

Lake 60-1, 61Specimen Ridge Trail 60Storm Point Trail 105Surprise & Amphitheater

Lakes 177, 176Table Mountain 178-9, 179Taggart & Bradley Lakes

178, 176Terrace Mountain Loop

56, 51Timberline Lake Trail 134Two Ocean Lake & Grand

View Point 174-5, 174Union Falls 70Wild Bill Lake 134Yellowstone River Picnic

Area Trail 57-8, 58hikes (overnight) 31, see

also hikes (day), hiking, hiking (by region)

Beartooth National Recreation Trail 139

Beartooth Traverse 139

Bechler River Trail 79-81, 80

Bighorn Pass Trail 81

Black Canyon of the Yellowstone 81

Bliss Pass 81Coffin Lakes 161Continental Divide

Trail 32Fawn Pass Trail 81Gallatin Skyline 81Heart Lake & Mt

Sheridan 75-6, 76Marion Lake & Death

Canyon 187-8, 188Mt Holmes 81Mt Washburn &

Sevenmile Hole 74-5, 74

North Shoshone Lake & Shoshone Geyser Basin 77-9, 78-9

Paintbrush Divide 182-3, 183

Sky Rim Trail 81Sportsman Lake Trail 81Teton Crest Trail 186-7,

186hiking 15, 30-2, see also

hikes (day), hikes (overnight), hiking (by region)

closures & seasonal restrictions 30-1

permits 31ratings 31safety 31-2, 279with children 15, 39, 42

hiking (by region), see also hikes (day), hikes (overnight), hiking

Beartooth Highway 137, 139

Bechler 69-70, 79-81, 70, 80

Canyon Country 60-3, 74-5, 61, 74

Central Tetons 175-8, 176

Colter Bay Region 172-5, 174

Gallatin Valley 159Geyser Country 66-9,

77-9, 67, 78-9Jackson 213Jackson Hole 221-2Lake Country 63-5, 75-6,

64, 76Mammoth Country 51-7,

81, 51Moose-Wilson Road

180-2, 181Norris 65-6, 66Paradise Valley 149-50

Red Lodge 134-5Roosevelt Country 57-60,

81, 58Tetons via Idaho 178-80,

179historic sites

Fort Yellowstone 91-2Heart Mountain

Relocation Center 144Little Bighorn Battlefield

National Monument 132

Oregon Short Line Railway Car 163

Pompey’s Pillar National Monument 132

history 230-8hitchhiking 273Hole in One 189-90holidays 266-7Holly Lake 183hoodoos 94horseback riding 34

Gallatin Valley 160Grand Targhee Ski &

Summer Resort 226Grand Teton National

Park 190Jackson 213Livingston 149Wapiti Valley 146West Yellowstone 164Yellowstone National

Park 85hot spots 239-40hot springs 20, 241, see

also geysersAbyss Pool 104Black Dragon’s Cauldron

101Black Pool 104, 28Boiling River 91Boulder Spring 68Calcite Springs 57Chico Hot Springs

149, 21Churning Cauldron 101Devil’s Frying Pan 94Dragon’s Mouth Spring

101Ferris Fork Hot Springs

81Fishing Cone 104Grand Prismatic Spring

12, 69, 114-15, 12, 15Granite Creek 215Granite Hot Springs

223-4Grizzly Fumarole 101Huckleberry Hot Springs

182

284

IND

EX H-M

hot springs continuedMammoth Hot Springs

91Morning Glory Pool 109safety 277Sulfur Cauldron 101Terrace Spring 107Washburn Hot Springs

74West Thumb Geyser

Basin 104, 4, 28Hoyt Peak 65Huckleberry Point 182Hurricane Pass 187Hymen Terrace 51hypothermia 277-8

Iice climbing 142immigration 269Inspiration Point 97-8insurance 265-6, 271, 274internet access 266internet resources 19, 268

children, travel with 40environmental issues

254geology 240, 241Grand Teton National

Park 169park support

organizations 267sustainable travel 253wildlife 245, 254Yellowstone National

Park 47internment camps 144Isa Lake 117itineraries 25-9

JJackson 213-21, 214

accommodations 216-18activities 213, 215-16drinking & nightlife

219-20entertainment 220festivals & events 216food 218-19shopping 220sights 213travel to/from 220travel within 220-1

Jackson Hole 13, 221-4, 2, 13

Jackson Hole Aerial Tram 187-8

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort 222

Jackson Lake 10, 192, 193, 10, 35

Jackson Lake Dam 197Jackson Point Overlook

197, 199Jenny Lake 202-3Jenny Lake Scenic Drive

199, 202John D Rockefeller Jr

Memorial Parkway 196, 204-5, 207

Kkayaking 35, 85, 142, see

also canoeing

LLake Country 102-3

accommodations 121-2cycling 83-4drinking 126-7food 126-7hiking 63-5, 75-6, 64, 76sights 101-5

Lake Solitude 175-6lake trout 87, 250, 251Lake Yellowstone Hotel

103Lamar Valley 9, 94-6, 8-9Laurance S Rockefeller

Preserve Center 203-4Lava Lake 159leeches 277legal matters 266LeHardy’s Rapids 103Leigh Lake 175, 192lesbian travelers 266Lewis Lake 104LGBT+ travelers 266lightning 279Lily Pad Lake 60Little Bighorn Battlefield

National Monument 132Little Firehole River 66Livingston 147-9lodging 263-4Log Chapel of the Sacred

Heart 194Lone Mountain Ranch 159Lookout Point 98Lost Lake 58Lower Geyser Basin 115-17Lyme disease 275lynx 249

MMadison Junction 107Mammoth Chapel 93Mammoth Country 92

accommodations 119-20cycling 82-3drinking 124food 124hiking 51-7, 81, 51sights 90-4skiing 89-90

Mammoth Hot Springs 14, 56, 91, 14

Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel 92

Mammoth terraces 14, 56, 91, 14

maps 228Marion Lake 187-8markets 220McCullough Peaks Wild

Horse Range 142measures 269medical services 275Menor’s Ferry Historic

District 194, 203microbes 234, 239Midway Geyser Basin

114-15migration corridors 253mobile phones 18money 18, 19, 265, 269Monument Geyser 66moose 13, 248, 276-7, 13Moose 203, 207, 209Moose Bogs 94Moose Ponds 202Moose-Wilson Road 191

hiking 180-2, 181sights 203-4

Moran Bay 192Moran Junction 224Mormon Row 15, 188-9,

199, 15Morning Glory Pool 109mosquitoes 277Moss Mansion 132motorcycle travel 18,

271-3Grand Teton National

Park 210road distances 46, 129,

168, 211, 273 Yellowstone National

Park 128mountain biking 34, see

also cyclingBig Sky 158Cody 142


Jackson Hole 221-2mountain goats 249, 72mountain lions 249,

276-7mountaineering 32-3Mt Holmes 81Mt Meek Pass 180Mt Moran 197Mt Washburn 61mud pots 241

Artist Paint Pots 106Fountain Paint Pot 115Grizzly Fumarole 101Gumper 101Red Spouter 115

Mud Volcano 101museums, see also

galleriesAmerican Computer &

Robotics Museum 155Buffalo Bill Center of the

West 142Carbon County Museum

134Draper Museum of

Natural History 142Driggs Geotourism

Center 225Gallatin History Museum

155Indian Arts Museum

197Livingston Depot Center

147Museum of the

National Park Range 105

Museum of the Rockies 11, 155, 11

National Museum of Wildlife Art 213

Old Trail Town 142Plains Indian Museum

142Western Heritage Center

132Yellowstone Art &

Photography Cente 109

Yellowstone Forever Institute 96

Yellowstone Gateway Museum 147-8

Yellowstone Heritage & Research Center 151

Yellowstone Historic Center 163

Yellowstone Trading Post 141Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

285IN

DEX N

- TNNational Elk Refuge 213National Park Mountain 116national parks programs 40Native American culture 230natural resources 237-8Nez Percé people 232Norris

accommodations 122hiking 65-6, 66sights 105-7

Norris Geyser Basin 17, 105-6, 17

Nymph Lake 94

OObservation Hill 111Observation Peak 63Obsidian Cliff 94Old Faithful geyser 9,

109, 9Old Faithful Inn 109opening dates, parks 19opening hours 266Oregon Short Line Railway

Car 163Osprey Falls 55ospreys 250owls 250, 2Oxbow Bend 194

PPaintbrush Divide 182-3Paradise Valley 149-51Paradise Valley Route

147-54paragliding 222park passes 263park policies & regulations

19, 127park support organizations

267passports 268, 269pepper spray 259permits



Petrified Tree 93-4pets, travel with 43-4Phelps Lake 180Phelps Lake Overlook 180pig racing 135Pinyon Terrace 56Plains Indian Powwow 23planning

activities 30-8budgeting 19

calendar of events 23-4family travel 15, 39-42free attractions 95internet resources 19itineraries 25-9opening dates 19park policies &

regulations 19, 127travel seasons 18, 23-4

plants 251-2Point Sublime 99Polecat Creek 182, 195Pompey’s Pillar National

Monument 132population 229Porcelain Basin 106postal services 266pronghorn 248public holidays 266-7Pumice Point 104

QQuake Lake 161-3

Rrafting 34-5

Chico Hot Springs 149Cody 142-4Gallatin Valley 160Gardiner 151-3Jackson 216

railways 235-6Raven Creek 64Red Lodge 134-6rescue & evacuation 279resorts

Big Sky Resort 13, 158Grand Targhee Ski &

Summer Resort 226Jackson Hole Mountain

Resort 222Lone Mountain Ranch

159Snow King Resort 215-16

rhyolitic lava 242Ribbon Lake 60Rims, the 132road distances 46, 129,

168, 211, 273 Roaring Mountain 94rock climbing, see climbingRockchuck Peak 202Rockefeller Jr, John D 236rockfall 279Roosevelt Arch 151Roosevelt Country 96

accommodations 120-1drinking 124

fishing 89food 124hiking 57-60, 81, 58sights 94-7skiing 89-90

Running of the Sheep 135

Ssafety

backcountry 31-2children, travel with 41crossing streams 279cycling 279geothermal areas 277Grand Teton National

Park 208hiking 31-2, 279hitchhiking 273road 271-2, 273rockfall 279water 278wildlife 275-7winter travel 37Yellowstone National

Park 47Sand Point 104scenic drives 20

Beartooth Highway Drive 136-7

Blacktail Plateau Drive 93

Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway 146

Chief Joseph Scenic Byway 139-40

Firehole Canyon Drive 115-16

Firehole Lake Drive 115Geyser Trail 82Grand Teton National

Park 191, 194, 191, 194Jenny Lake Scenic Drive

199, 202Yellowstone National

Park 82Schwabacher’s Landing

199Sevenmile Hole 74Shadow Mountain 189Sheepeater Canyon 55Sheepeater Cliffs 94Sheepeaters 94, 230-1Shoshone Lake 87Signal Mountain 197Silver Cord Cascade 60skiing 36-7

Big Sky Resort 13, 158-9


Grand Teton National Park 195-6

Jackson Hole 13, 221, 222, 13

Red Lodge 135Snow King Resort

215-16Wapiti Valley 147West Yellowstone 165-6Yellowstone National

Park 89-90ski-joring 135sleeping bags 257Smoking Waters Mountain

Man Rendezvous 24Snake River 192Snake River Overlook 194snakes 277snow blindness 278Snow King Resort 215-16snowcoach tours 38, 273snowmobile access 238snowmobiling 38, 254


Yellowstone National Park 89, 16

snowshoeing 37, 195Soda Butte 95Sour Lake 101Spanish Peaks 159Specimen Ridge 59spiders 277springs, see hot springsstargazing 122Static Peak Divide 180stings 277stoves 257streams, crossing 279String Lake 175, 192, 202summer travel 30-6sunburn 278Sunlight Basin 140Surprise Lake 177sustainable travel 254Swan Lake 94Sylvan Lake 105

TTable Mountain 178-9Taggart Lake 178telephone services 18, 267tents 257Teton Fault 242Teton Glacier 203Teton Glacier Overlook 177Teton Valley 224-6Tetons 12, 178-80, 242-3,

12

286

IND

EX T-Y

thermal features 20, 239, 240-2, 277, see also fumeroles, geysers, hot springs

Three River Junction 80Three Rivers Meadow 80Thumb Paint Pots 104ticks 277Timbered Island 203time 269Togwotee Pass 224toilets 267Tom Miner Basin 150tourism 229, 235-7tourist information 267-8



tours 273cycling 33-4wildlife-watching 34Yellowstone National

Park 128Tower-Roosevelt Junction

96-7train travel 235-6, 272Trapper Lake 175travel to/from the national

parks 270-2travel within the national

parks 210, 218, 272-3travertine terraces 242trees 251-2trekking, see hikes (day),


trout 87, 250, 251Trout Lake 95trumpeter swans 250Tukudika people 230-1Twin Buttes 69Twin Lakes 94Two Ocean Lake 174

UUncle Tom’s Trail 99Upper Geyser Basin 9,

108-17, 112-13Upper Wind River Valley

224

Vvacations 266-7vegetarian travelers 265Victor 225viewpoints

Calcite Springs Overlook 96

Dead Indian Pass 139Grandview Point 98Inspiration Point 97-8Jenny Lake Overlook 202Lake Butte Overlook 105Lookout Point 98Point Sublime 99Uncle Tom’s Trail 99

visas 268volunteering 268

Wwalking, see hikes (day),


Wapiti Route 141-7Wapiti Valley 146-7water, drinking 257-8, 278waterfalls

Bechler Basin Waterfalls 14, 70, 14

Brink of the Lower Falls 98

Brink of the Upper Falls 98

Cave Falls 14, 70, 14Colonnade Falls 80Fairy Falls 69Gibbon Falls 106Gwinna Falls 81

Iris Falls 80Kepler Cascades 116-17Lewis Falls 104Mystic Falls 66Osprey Falls 55Sluiceway Falls 81Tendoy Falls 81Terraced Falls 70Tower Fall 96-7Undine Falls 93Union Falls 70Virginia Cascade 107Wahhi Falls 81Wraith Falls 93

waterfowl 250weather 18, 23-4, 264websites, see internet

resourcesweddings 267weights 269West Nile Disease 275West Thumb Geyser Basin

104, 4, 28West Yellowstone 163-7, 164Wild Bill Lake 134wildflowers 15, 252, 15, 185wildlife 244-52, see also

individual specieswildlife protection 253wildlife-watching 20


safety 275-7tours 34Yellowstone National

Park 9, 84, 100-1Willow Flats Turnout 182Willow Park 94Wilson 221winter travel 16, 21-2,

36-8, 88Witch Creek 75wolf reintroduction 245-6wolves 229, 245-6, 21work 268-9

YYellowstone Forever

Institute 96Yellowstone Heritage &

Research Center 238Yellowstone Lake 86-7, 89,

102-3, 242Yellowstone National Park

16, 46-128, 48-9, 16, 72, 73

accommodations 46, 117-24

backcountry permits 71boating 85-7cycling 82-5drinking 124-7entrances 47fishing 87-9food 46, 124-7hiking 46, 50-81horseback riding 85internet resources 47medical services 127opening dates 126policies & regulations 127reservations 47road distances 46safety 47scenic drives 82shopping 127sights 90-117skiing 89-90tourist offices 128travel within 128wildlife watching 9, 84,

100-1Yellowstone River 57, 2, 73Yellowstone River picnic

area 96Yellowstone Volcano

Observatory 240Yellowstone Wildlife

Sanctuary 134


287

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

Airport

Border crossingBART station

Boston T stationBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/Muni station

Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541535th edition – Mar 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 594 4© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSBenedict WalkerA beach baby from Newcastle, Australia, Ben turned 40 in 2017 and decided to start a new life in Leipzig, Germany. Writing for Lonely Planet was a childhood dream. It’s a privilege, a huge responsibility and loads of fun! He’s thrilled to have covered big chunks of Australia, Canada, Germany, Japan, Switzerland, Sweden and the USA. Come along for the ride on Instagram @wordsandjourneys.

Bradley MayhewYellowstone National Park Bradley has been writing guidebooks for 20 years now. He started traveling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and he is the co-author of Lonely Planet’s Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via Turkey, Iran, Afghan-istan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s 10 most scenic

long-distance trails. Bradley also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Survival Guide chapters.

Carolyn McCarthyGrand Teton National Park Carolyn specializes in travel, culture and adventure in the Americas. She has written for National Geographic, Outside, BBC Maga-zine, Sierra Magazine, Boston Globe and other publications. A former Fulbright fellow and Banff Mountain Grant recipient, she has documented life in the most remote corners of Latin America. Carolyn has contributed to 40 guidebooks and anthologies for Lonely Planet, including Colorado, USA, Argentina, Chile,

Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, Panama, Peru and USA National Parks guides. Carolyn also wrote the Understand chapters. For more information, visit www.carolynmccarthy.org or follow her Instagram travels @mccarthyoffmap.

Christopher Pitts Around Yellowstone National Park, Around Grand Teton National Park Born in the year of the Tiger, Chris’s first expedition in life ended in failure when he tried to dig from Pennsylvania to China at the age of six. Hardened by reality but still infinitely curious about the other side of the world, he went on to study Chinese in university, living for several years in Kunming, Taiwan and Shanghai. A chance encounter in an elevator led to a Paris relocation, where he lived with his wife

and two children for over a decade before the lure of Colorado’s sunny skies and outdoor adven-ture proved too great to resist. Visit him online at www.christopherpitts.net.



© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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