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Let’s Write aSuccess StoryLess than a year ago, I took my “career zip line” from health care toorganic farming. The transition was abrupt: one day I was wearing a suitand sitting in an executive suite; the next day I was wearing boots andwalking a farm field. Since May I have met with farmers and processorsfrom all of our regions and seen firsthand what it means to farm in anorganic and sustainable manner in New York State.

As I reflect on these encounters, the stories multiply. The deep, richheritage of organic agriculture in our state includes microfarms and CSAswith 20 members, large vegetable farms serving wholesale markets andthousands of members, dairy farms of all sizes and types, and foodprocessors who integrate with organic farmers here and abroad—all ofthese make up the fabric of NOFA-NY. There are beginning farmers,experienced farmers, family farms, and not-for-profit organizationalfarms. There are consumers and businesses who care deeply aboutorganic and sustainable agriculture and the mission of NOFA-NY.

I talked with farmers facing issues ranging from the weather tofinding organic sources of feed and seed and from labor issues to stateand federal farming and food policy. Some farmers are barely making aliving, while others are highly successful. Consumers are joining withfarmers on issues such as GMO labeling and climate change. Landmarkresearch has been published on the health potential of organically grownfood. There is both an abundance of healthy food and an inability toconsistently provide that food to everyone. So many stories to tell.

Here’s what I’ve learned from my summer immersion in NY organicfarming: The crises of climate change, food security, economic security,and personal health are starting to coalesce in new ways that sustainableorganic agriculture is uniquely poised to address. At the same time, thereare pressing issues impacting the success of sustainable, organic farmersand limiting their ability to contribute positive solutions to broaderproblems facing us today.

I’ve realized, too, that NOFA-NY is a foundation from which we cansuccessfully address these issues. New York State is among the top statesin terms of organic agriculture. It ranks third, behind only California andWisconsin. And NOFA-NY is the leading voice of organic and sustainablefarmers in New York, with a reputation for education and advocacy thatdates back to 1983. Together, we have the ability to launch a new era inorganic, sustainable agriculture by forging integrated solutions to theseinterconnected crises, with a specific emphasis on the viability ofsustainable, organic farms and access to healthy fresh food for all.

I hope to see you all at the Winter Conference in Saratoga Springs inJanuary and to hear your voices at our annual membership meeting. Let’screate a new story in 2015!

New York Organic NewsPublisherNortheast Organic Farming Association of New York (NOFA-NY)EditorFern Marshall BradleyProduction DesignerDavid LembeckContributors:Jenn Baumstein, Liz Brownlee, Marne Coit,Steve Gilman, Michael Glos, ElizabethHenderson, Pat Huizing, Matt Kelly, ChristinaLe Beau, Rachel Myers, Julie Rockcastle, SteveRockcastle, Anne Ruflin, Rachel Schell-Lambert,Jack Bradigan Spula, Connor Stedman

Advertising Inquiries:Contact Sondra at Sondra@nofany.org or 585-271-1979 ext. 510.

Subscriptions:A subscription to New York Organic Newsis a benefit of membership in NOFA-NY. For membership information, go towww.nofany.org/join or call the office at 585-271-1979.

Subscriptions:Send article queries, photos, letters to the editor,and suggestions to Fern Marshall Bradley atnewsmagazine@nofany.org.

New York Organic News is published four timesa year by NOFA-NY, 5970 County Road 41,Farmington, NY, 14425. The views and opinionsexpressed here are those of the authors and notnecessarily those of the NOFA-NY Board ofDirectors, staff, or membership. No part of thispublication may be used without writtenpermission of the publisher.

NOFA-NY is a statewide organization leading a growing movement of farmers, consumers,gardeners, and businesses committed topromoting sustainable, local, organic food andfarming.

This publication is printed on recyclednewsprint.

Director’s OutlookANNE RUFLIN

Executive Director, NOFA-NY

Sarah Isbell looks over the baby kale before amorning harvest at Obercreek Farm inHughsonville. Obercreek grows vegetables, herbs,baby greens, and hops on 10 acres to sell to localrestaurants and at farmers markets and to supplytheir 75-member CSA. Photo by Ethan Harrison

Correction: In our last issue (Fall 2014), thephotographer who took the cover photo was notcredited. That photo of famer Jody Somers ofDancing Ewe Farm was taken by Suzanne Carreker-Voigt. We regret the omission.

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FEATURES

Help for Farmers Going OrganicA program to help farmers implement conservationmeasures and attain certified organic status. by Rachel Myers .............................................. 19

Elderberries and BeyondRiparian buffer plantings can reap benefits fornature and farmers.by Liz Brownlee and Connor Stedman ............. 22

Nature CallsWhy New York State forest lands are a vital resource for protecting agriculture. by Jack Bradigan Spula .................................... 25

Food Justice CertificationAn update on this program offered by theAgricultural Justice Project.by Elizabeth Henderson .................................. 27

COLUMNS

DIRECTOR’S OUTLOOKLet’s Write a Success Story

Notes from NOFA-NY’s Executive Director Anne Rufflin ...................................................... 3

FOOD ADVOCACYGrowing Our Organic Policy Voice

Why it’s important to make advocacy a part of your “organicness,” and how to do it. by Steve Gilman ................................................ 5

THE FARMERS’ ROUNDTABLEThe Smart Pathway to a Farming Career

Advice on gaining the skills and experience neededto make farming dreams a reality. by Rachel Schell-Lambert .................................. 8

ON THE FARMHeat Lamp Hazards

Good advice on minimizing risks when using heatlamps in and around barns. by Michael Glos ............................................... 11

FOOD LITERACYSweet on Maple Sugaring

Why real maple syrup is so worth it. by Christina Le Beau ....................................... 13

IN THE GARDENA Soil Experiment Pays Off

Garden beds made with “repurposed” soil producedgreat tomatoes and more. by Matt Kelly ............. 15

IN THE KITCHENTeas for the Winter Blues

Try uplifting herbal teas to fight low spirits andincrease your energy this winter. by Jenn Baumstein ......................................... 17

WHY LOCAL ORGANICGrowing Food, Enriching Lives

by Steve and Julie Rockcastle, Green Heron Growers ..................................... 36

DEPARTMENTS

NOFA-NY NEWS .............................................. 32

NEWS FROM CERTIFICATION ...................... 34

Contents

On the cover

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Food Advocacy

Organic growers know there’s a considerable listof timely farm duties that must be performed well inorder to produce and market high-quality crops.Neglect weed control, for example, and there will becertain long-term ramifications. Likewise, in this eraof amplified hype and pushback muscle from thecorporate food industry, it’s clear that organicadvocates need to add yet another critical task totheir to-do lists: policy work.

It’s not always apparent how obtuse policyinitiatives put through in far-off seats of power canend up dictating how farmers farm and eaters eat—but paying attention to policy is as critical fororganic viability as controlling pests. Making time toregularly advocate for key local, regional, andnational policies that support sustainableagriculture is as crucial as any other thing we do tocarry out our “organicness.” This requires honingour policy skills to sway decision makers and winover the public.Use it or lose it. Consumer studies show that

organic farmers are perceived with a high degree oftrust. And as one of the oldest organic education andadvocacy groups in the United States, NOFA and itsstate chapters have a grasstops voice valued bycitizens and policy leadership. But against theclamor of competing interests and media spin,together with spurious popularized labels such as“natural,” we stand to lose our influence unless webecome more effective at using it.

That’s why building NOFA’s policy capacity is JobOne for the Interstate Policy Committee, made up ofrepresentatives of the seven state chapters. Workingwith policy and advocacy experts in our nationalcoalitions—principally the National OrganicCoalition (NOC), the National SustainableAgriculture Coalition (NSAC), and the Northeast

Growing OurOrganic Policy Voiceby Steve GilmanNOFA Interstate Policy Coordinator

Sustainable Agriculture Working Group(NESAWG)—NOFA’s role is to put forward ourgenuine grassroots voice to decision makers and tobring back targeted advocacy actions to the NOFAmembership. But NOFA needs to grow a moreresponsive and participatory policy process,including establishing systems to receive timelyinput from members—and creating more effectiveadvocacy networks to arm members with links,talking points, and inside information so they caneasily take appropriate action.

There’s no shortage of policy issues that canbenefit from increased member policy participation.While the NOFA chapters have their hands fullhandling hot policy issues (such as fracking) in theirstates, Interstate NOFA’s regional and nationalagenda includes: FDA’s upcoming food safety re-proposals; GMO labeling legislation and cropcontamination issues; Farm Bill items such asorganic cost share and beginning farmer support;maintaining the integrity of the organic label; andpromoting domestic fair trade.Your comments needed. Many governmental

food and farming initiatives must go through apublic comment process before they become law.The comment period is a key opportunity toparticipate in campaigns designed to orchestratelarge-scale, yet individualized, responses. Afterreceiving tens of thousands of officially filedcomments last fall, for example, the FDA made theunprecedented move of taking key proposed foodsafety regulations back to the drawing board for amajor rewrite.

Many NOFA members got their feet wet in thecommenting process during that campaign. Armedwith coalition-prepared talking points, theydiscovered how easy it was to officially submit their

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viewpoints. However, others responded to petitionscirculating on the Internet, not realizing that underthe commenting rules, only input submittedindividually by mail or though the Regulations.govwebsite is counted in the final tally. Fact is, petitiondrives that gather even thousands of signers countas only a single comment.

Now on the final leg to becoming law, the foodsafety regulations stand to have a major effect onfamily-scale agriculture and the emerging foodmovement. There’s another opportunity coming upto comment on FDA’s revamped re-proposal.Coalition materials are being prepared to providetalking points and help responders easily negotiatethe Regulations.gov website. A concerted grassrootsinput is needed to make our voice heard. Look for aninteractive policy workshop, Building Our OrganicPolicy Voice, at the January 2015 NOFA-NYConference to dig further into these key topics.

Conferencegoers are also encouraged to attend theNOFA-NY Annual Meeting on January 24, 2015 at 11a.m., during which members will vote on annual policyresolutions.

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The Smart Pathwayto a Farming CareerNOFA-NY’s team of technical experts always enjoy

answering answering questions from farmers atworkshops, field days, and conferences as well as throughe-mail or calls to the NOFA-NY Technical AssistanceHelpline (1-855-2-NOFA-NY).

In this edition of the Farmers’ Roundtable, BeginningFarmer Coordinator Rachel Schell-Lambert describes afour-phase career track that those new to farming canfollow to gain the skills and knowledge needed to farmindependently.

I look for patterns and best practices to improvemy ability to support beginning farmers. This coversall manner of topics from production to marketing,mentorship to finding loans. Something that I like tohighlight, and which is a great starting point for aconversation with a farmer, is the concept of beingon a career track toward farming independently. Irely on a four-phase continuum. The four phases areexploring, training, planning, and starting/staying.Each phase has some characteristics and most-appropriate training options. I’ll share those here,along with suggestions of alternative routes tofollow should you decide somewhere along the waythat you need to step off the career track for a whileand assess your overall goal.

ExploringGoals: Get a taste of the farming lifestyle and

experience a range of farm types.

Explorers are trying out farming. Typically, butnot always, they hope to maintain otheremployment or education while gaining experiencesthat suit their current lifestyle. If you’re eager tospend even a little time working on farms, there aregreat opportunities, as long as you set yourexpectations appropriately. It’s okay to dabble in arange of experiences. Later on, you’ll need more

serious training and immersive experience to learnskills to run a productive farm that is ecologicallyand financially sustainable. (Even if you’re fortunateto have land and funding available already!) At thispoint, aim to observe and experience a variety offarms, getting physically involved in farm work in avariety of settings. You will benefit from attendingfarmer-focused conferences and farm tours, withexploration as your driving force. Students may findwork at a school garden or school farm; any explorercould use breaks and vacations to do short-termfarming externships locally or far abroad.Participating in work parties, volunteeropportunities, crop mobs, and the like will alsoprovide valuable insight into farm work.

Next step: Find on-farm experiences andcoursework that allows you to focus on your skillsgaps.

The alternative: Become a particularlyknowledgeable consumer and advocate for farmers.

TrainingGoals: Experience a farming lifestyle and develop

practical production and farm-management skills.

Ready to commit—even for a limited period oftime—to living a farming lifestyle, spending a large

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RAChEL SChELL-LAmbERTNOFA-NY Beginning Farmer Program Coordinator

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Spart of your waking hours farming, or devotingformal education to learning to farm? Seek farmemployment! Expect to work on farms for severalyears, and expect to seek opportunities on differentfarms each season. At first, learning the day-to-daytasks and handling challenges of farm work areimportant and the only lessons you’ll need. This isfollowed by more advanced farm work (for example,running expensive equipment or being trusted tomanage aspects of the daily operation) and perhapsa chance to give input about the running of thefarm. Eventually, you should seek placement on afarm that will allow you to learn more than the day-to-day tasks: you should also learn how to makedecisions, keep records, manage employees, andmarket the farm’s products. This type of work-learnenvironment is known as an apprenticeship orinternship and deserves your careful research

regarding what’s appropriate and fair forcompensation.

Increasingly, there are degree programs anduniversity-based nondegree programs that teachpractical farming skills. State universities andindependent schools alike are beginning to offerdegrees in sustainable farming methods, but one cando well within even a traditional agricultureprogram. Classroom education should be paired withand/or followed by hands-on training of the typedescribed above.

Next (or concurrent) step: Find land andcapital to start your own farm business.

The alternative: Seek placement as a farmmanager or take over an existing farm operation(perhaps one in your own family).

continued on page 10

EXPLORING•WWOOF (wwoof.org) during school or work

vacations; volunteer days on farms nearby

•Online courses (start withnebeginningfarmers.org/online-courses)

• Short in-person courses in your local area(check with your county CooperativeExtension office)

•Reading farmer and food-system blogs andtalking to farmers

TRAINING•University programs (start at

sustainableaged.org)

•Apprenticeship and Internship; long-termWWOOF opportunities

•Online courses

• CRAFT (Collaborative Regional Alliance forFarmer Training)

•Work as a farm hand

• Farm-planning handbooks (see those authoredby Wiswall, Thistlethwaite, Blanchard)

Education Options for the Four StagesHere’s a list of organizations, websites, and

other opportunities for farmers-in-training. And no matter what stage you’re at along thecontinuum, you’ll find valuable networking

and learning opportunities at conferences offeredby NOFA-NY and related organizations and at on-farm field days.

PLANNING• Farm Incubator and Farm Practicum Programs

•Work as a farm manager

• Exploring the Small Farm Dream, FarmBeginnings Whole Farm Planning, and HolisticManagement International courses

• Leadership and communication training

•Mentorship programs

•American Farmland Trust and Land for Good’sland access resources

•Agrarian Trust/The Greenhorns publications

STARTING/STAYING• Incubators and Farm Practicum Programs

• SARE grants for On-Farm Research

•NY FarmNet (guidance on transferring farms)

•Microloans from Farm Services Agency andKivaZIP; crowdfunding platforms to raisemoney for investments to the farm (noteducational programs, but worth mentioning)

•NOFA-NY Journeyperson Program

•Advanced grower workshops and conventions

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Starting & StayingGoal: Follow your plan, remaining flexible and

seeking the right opportunities for education andguidance.

During the start-up years of your own operation,keep records of what is going on in the fields, atmarkets, and with your farm crew (of one or more).Regular comparison of your well-articulated goals toyour current situation will illuminate whether youneed encouragement and advice from other farmers,further training opportunities, or a reframing ofyour goals and timeline. You can find advanced-leveleducation, apply for grants to fund on-farmresearch, or simply let your plan play out until youfeel comfortable that the farm is the one you want.Stay involved with your networks of mentors, peers,and service providers. Find regional groups offarmers, or start your own, because these are thepeople with whom you share a climate and a market,and whom you can see on a regular basis. Approachyour new farming career as a long-term endeavorwhich depends on your strength, your vision, yourleadership, and the support of others.

Photo by Eric Gordon

PlanningGoals: Clarify your production ideas, gather your

support network, and a set up a plan of action.

At some point, you will begin to seek land, createa farm business model, and address how to financethe dream. This may have happened before or duringyour training phases, but I urge you to step back andensure that you’re incorporating all the knowledgeand resources available to you as you plan andprepare. Write and rewrite your plan for what toproduce and how to sell it. Test yourself by askingwhether you know how much time an enterprise willdemand of you, from initiation (field prep, orwelcoming your new livestock) to marketing. Talkopenly about production and marketing topics, aswell as your farm vision, with other beginningfarmers. Seek out farming mentors and professionalcontacts (lawyers, accountants, farming extensionagents), because feedback can only strengthen yourplan and keep your goals realistic. I also recommendtaking courses that force you to nail down yourvision, business plan, and farming production plans;there are plenty of great options on offer online andin person. The best of these courses combinehomework assignments, peer-to-peer interaction,and mentorship/teacher feedback. Planning is a timeto practice nonproduction skills; you’re gettingcloser to the time when you’ll have to manage tasklists, office work, employees (and yourself!), so seekout leadership training and opportunities to managedistinct projects during advanced apprenticeships.

Next (or concurrent) step: Sign documents,gather supplies, and carry out your action plan.

The alternative: Patience is your friend. Thetransition from planning to independently farminghas no time limit, and during the searching andsaving process, you can continue to train, find ashort-term job that allows you to save money, or domore exploration.

On the FarmC

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STwo years ago I opened up my e-mail in-box to findsome very unsettling news. The night before therehad been a fire at the Maine farm where I had firstinterned 20 years ago. The barn where I had learnedto milk, harness horses, and generally catch thefarming bug was a smoldering pile. And worst of all,it took the lives of all the animals in it, including oneof the horses I had worked with. My heart went outto the Thayers, who could only watch in tears as acenterpiece of their farm went up in flames. Luckilyno humans were injured or killed.

Through conversations with other farmers andfirefighters, I know the truth about rural fires andthe role of the fire department. If you live rurally,you should not depend on the fire department tosave your house or barn. My wife, Karma, and I haveseen too many fires destroy houses of friends andneighbors.

We have a fantastic network of volunteerfirefighters, but unfortunately, it will likely be aminimum of 30 minutes from the time I make a calluntil a fire engine will show up at my farm. All thewater has to be trucked in or pumps have to be setup to transport the water from our pond or the creekacross the street. During this time the fire will beburning and spreading. The best the firefighters cando is contain the fire and keep it from spreading toother structures.

The most important thing you can do is toprevent the potential for a fire to occur on your farmand, secondly, to have a plan of what to do if firebreaks out. Prevention primarily involves removingas many risks as possible and reasonable.

Heat lamps were the cause of the fire in Maine, aswell as several other fires I have heard about, andtwo fires on our own farm. Heat lamps, generallydefined, are portable hanging fixtures with bulbs inthem (usually 150 to 250 watts). Most are poorlymade with short, thin cords, poor connections to thefixture, unreliable attachment points for hanging,and cheap construction. In addition, farmersgenerally don’t have a good place to install them.Many of us use them “temporarily” and don’t have apermanent set up. Perhaps it has gotten cold, so alamp is quickly hung in the corner of a stall to warma newborn lamb or a hundred chicks that have justarrived. This heat lamp hangs in the corner, attachedwith baling twine: an accident waiting to happen.

One fire on our farm was in a greenhouse broodernot attached to, but very close to, the barn. Wediscovered the fire after it had burned itself out.Apparently, a brooder lamp had fallen into thebedding. Luckily, aside from the shavings (on wet

Heat LampHazardsby Michael Glos

ground), there was very little to burn. We felt verylucky that the fire had not spread to our main barn,located just feet away.

We moved our brooder facility away from thebarn and soon after started using “Ohio Brooders”that use heat bulbs but not the hanging fixtures. Notonly are they safer, but they can use less powerbecause lower-wattage bulbs are required and are amuch better way to warm the chickens.

We thought we had learned from our previousmistakes. We were using thicker bulbs and betterfixtures. But fire broke out again on our farm when aheat lamp appeared to have a frayed wire internallythat shorted out without tripping the breaker. Thewires melted and the bulb dropped into the very drystraw in one of our piglet brooder boxes. I believe itis pure luck that I looked out at the sow barn as Iheaded in for lunch. It appeared that loose snow wasblowing off the roof, but something didn’t lookright. I quickly realized I was seeing smoke, notsnow, coming out of the eaves. I called back to thehouse, grabbed the fire extinguisher, and put out thefire. A few buckets of water finished it off. I fullybelieve that if I hadn’t decided to check out that“blowing snow,” our sow barn—along with all oursows—would have burned to the ground.

To help prevent fires from heat lamps, I sharethese recommendations from our experiences:The best thing is not to use them. An exposed

hanging hot bulb that is drying the bedding (tinder)below is always going to be a fire risk. Devisesystems for your livestock that do not need thesupplemental heat. This may include majorparadigm shifts such as having lambs later in thespring, or using mother hens to raise chicks insteadof buying them. Do everything you can to minimizerisk. At a minimum, turn off heat lamps as soon asyou don’t need them.Don’t go cheap. Throw out all of those poorly

made hardware store heat lamps. We have tried a

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half-dozen types of heat lamps and have currentlysettled on one from Premier that costs about $40. Itis completely enclosed and is said to not cause a fireeven if it falls. It has a long, thick cord, and theelectrical connections are sealed. Use hard-glass bulbs We have switched over to

using hard 175-watt bulbs from Farmer Boy AgSupply. They are much less likely to shatter. Also, wehave developed different types of brooder boxes (forpigs and chickens) that stay warm without the needfor a 250-watt bulb.Secure them like they are permanent. Use

chains and not twine. Keep them out of the way oflivestock that can disturb them.Upgrade your breaker panel. At the

recommendation of an electrician we installed an“Arc Fault Interrupter” breaker for the circuits in ourbarns where we have heat lamps connected. Unlikeour previous GFI breaker, which failed to trip whenthe fixture sparked, this type of breaker is made totrip. The downside is that these breakers cost about$40 instead of $4. Choose location carefully. Use heat lamps in

buildings that are isolated from other buildings anddo not contain much of value. We have smalldetached brooder buildings for our chickens and a

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specific building for our sows/piglets. This is muchpreferred to brooding in our main barn where we storeour grain, hay, freezers, tools, and other livestock.Install smoke detectors. Put a smoke detector in

all buildings with the potential for fire. A really loudone with an external speaker is recommended, but astandard battery-operated one with an annuallychanged battery is a minimum.Get fire extinguishers. Have at least one fire

extinguisher at main entrances of all buildings. In ourmain barn we have one at each end. We usecommercial rechargeable extinguishers and checkthem annually for a full charge. Learn how to use oneand have them clearly marked.Review your insurance policy. Make sure you

know what coverage you do and don’t have. You maythink you have more coverage than you actually do. Wedon’t insure everything, but we do insure what wedon’t want to self-insure.

Michael Glos co-owns Kingbird Farm with his wife, Karma,in Berkshire. This column is an adapted version of an articlethat appeared in the Spring 2014 issue of Cornell’s SmallFarms Quarterly (see the SFQ website atsmallfarms.cornell.edu/quarterly/.

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Food LiteracyC

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SFake maple syrup bums me out.And not only because it rarelycontains real maple. (Most brandsare a mix of high-fructose cornsyrup, preservatives, and artificialflavors.) It’s because maple syrupis perfect just as it is. Naturallysweet, it also retains trace vitaminsand minerals, even antioxidants.It’s still sugar, so let’s not go crazy.But for pancakes or baking, ortopping oatmeal or yogurt, there’sno equal.

Great lore, too: Legend has itthat a Native American womanbrewed up the first batchaccidentally. Her husband, headingoff to hunt one morning, yankedhis tomahawk from the tree wherehe’d thrown it the night before.Sap ran from the cut and into acontainer at the base of the tree.The woman found the liquid,thought it was water, cooked withit, and got a sweet surprise.

Over time the inevitable

Sweet onMapleSugaringby Christina Le Beau

happened, and someone got thebright idea to make an imitation ofthe real thing. Real syrup’s highcost and limited availability nodoubt influenced the shift, andearly fake versions did contain a

decent amount of actual maple.But, really, messing with maplesyrup is just plain wrong.

I let my daughter taste theimposter in a restaurant once,because I wanted her to

Maple sugaring, nineteenth century style, at sugar camp at the Genesee Country Village & Museum in Mumford. Photoby Christina Le Beau

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understand the difference.Thankfully, she wrinkled her noseand went for the good stuff. (Foodnerd alert: Yes, I bring my ownmaple syrup when we go out forbreakfast. It’s just what I do.)

But even kids who haven’tgrown up with real maple syrupcan learn to appreciate it. And oneway I guarantee you’ll get theirinterest is at a maple sugaringevent.

New York is maple country,second in the United States only toVermont. Our soil and climate,including these freeze-and-thawwinters, create the perfectconditions to make the sap flow.Which means that in a few shortmonths, you’ll find maple eventsthroughout the state. (New York’s2015 Maple Weekends are March21–22 and 28–29.) My family likesits syrup with a side of history, so

our favorite maple spot is GeneseeCountry Village & Museum inMumford, a living history museumthat also has a nature center.

At past maple sugaring outings,my daughter and her best buddyhave sampled sap straight from thetree (it tastes like sweetish water),as well as syrup from maple, birch,and shagbark hickory trees (syrupfrom the last one is made byboiling down the bark, not thesap). They’ve tried their hand attapping and made tin maple-leafornaments. They’ve had maple-glazed walnuts and maple snowcones (syrup over shaved ice).We’ve always skipped the maplecotton candy, but we’ve heard suchrave reviews that we probablyshould taste it one of these years.And, hey, the cotton candymachine was invented in 1897.

But the best part is the sugaring

camp set up to show how earlysettlers collected, transported, andcooked down the sap—techniquesthat haven’t changed a whole lot inthe last few centuries. Theequipment is better, operations arebigger, but the end result is prettymuch the same. So the girls get asmall-scale, up-close view of sapboiled down to syrup, boiledfurther still to maple cream, andfurther still to maple sugar. Fortygallons of sap to make one gallonof syrup. No wonder real maplesyrup is expensive. But so worth it.

Christina Le Beau lives in Rochester.She blogs at Spoonfed: Raising kidsto think about the food they eat(www.spoonfedblog.net). A versionof this column originally appeared onSpoonfed.

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SThe garden this year has beenredemptive.

My previous growing has beenhindered, stymied, andmanhandled by weather, lateblight, and inexperience. But thisyear the space has been filled withan abundance of tomatoes,cucumbers, squash, and kale.Which is exactly what I hadplanned.

The garden this year has alsobeen an experiment.

All of my gardens have beenexperimental so far. It’sunavoidable when you’re justgetting started with greater foodindependence. But unlike thoseprevious gardens, this iteration hasbeen experimental with purpose,intention, and—in the end—success.

All I wanted this year wastomatoes. Big, beautiful, bountifultomatoes. Last year, late blightsnatched away victory when it waswithin my grasp. And I was tryingto do too much, growing lots ofthings for the sake of growingthem and not because I reallywanted to eat them. So this year Ikept the garden small, focused,and manageable. Just a few beds,just four types of vegetables, up

garden. The material in both pileswas about as fertile as a parkinglot.

I mixed the reclaimed dirt withwell-seasoned cow manure. (Freebarrels of manure are another perkthat come with working on a smallfarm.) I filled the beds with equalparts manure and dirt, alternatingbetween the two with each bucket-load and mixing with a spade as Iworked.

I had no idea if this experimentwould work. Nothing about thisgarden looked like the kind ofthing you see in coffee table booksor glossy magazines aboutgardening.

It was in that moment ofreflection that I had a full-blownepisode of Tomato Anxiety: a deep-rooted fear that I was going tocatastrophically screw up thetomatoes in my garden and end upwith nothing. Not a single fruit,

near the house. I got as manytransplants as possible from thefarm where I work instead ofstarting from seed.

I built a small collection ofraised beds from reclaimed palletsand filled them with“experimental” soil. Maybe soilisn’t even the best term for it—youdecide. I started with a giant pileof dirt that had been removedfrom my workshop when I put inthe floor. I also had a pile of “thematerial formerly known as soil”saved from last year’s container

A SoilExperimentPays Offby Matt Kelly

The writer’s homemade beds filledwith experimental soil: althoughnothing about this garden waspicture-perfect, these plantscontinued to yield tomatoes throughthe last week of October. Photo byMatt Kelly

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much less a bushel or two forcanning.

But working on the farm hasgiven me something even betterthan barrels of free manure: theunderstanding that things don’thave to be perfect to succeed. Youdon’t have to know everything;you never will. Instead, you justneed to know the right things atany given moment in time.Understand soil basics. Soil is

shelter for the roots of a plant. Soilmust hold both moisture and air injust the right amounts. It must bean appropriate medium forroots—big and small, deep andshallow—to expand in. Soil is thepantry for plants, a storehouse offood and nutrients. It’s also great ifyou can establish mycorrhizae as areliable roommate to help theroots do their nutrient-uptakething. These were the factors Icarefully considered throughoutmy soil experiment. Seeds and plants are

resilient. Around my property,kale and lettuce and other randomlonely plants grow in the lawnwhere seeds have been dropped.Cucumber transplants tossed intomy dump bucket continuedgrowing despite abandonment andneglect; I transferred a couple ofthe best-looking plants into a bed,and they’ve given me beautifulcukes all season. Plants have beengrowing and fruiting andreproducing for how manymillennia? Something was sure togrow in this experimental soil.Mitigate transplant shock.

Regardless of soil quality, stress isinevitable when moving plantsfrom pot to earth. The trick I usedthis year was soaking the roots ofthe transplants with dilute fishemulsion to minimize the shock.It’s a way of patting them on theback and saying, “It’s going to beokay, you can do it.”Feed regularly. No matter how

good your soil is, feeding yourplants is always a plus. With thequestionable nature of my soil,regular feeding was a no-brainer.Understanding what each elementin the N-P-K rating does for a plantwas key to smart feeding.Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium:grow up, grow down, grow all theway around. To get the tomatoplants established, I fed them withfish emulsion with a higher ratio ofphosphorus. Once they were ontheir way to fruiting, I used fishemulsion with a higher amount ofnitrogen and potassium.Good soil doesn’t happen

overnight. No amount of moneyand expertise can produce idealsoil in a single season. It takes aninvestment of care and attentionand chicken manure over severalyears. It takes keeping the soilcontinually covered and filled with

plant matter. It takes learningabout the rhythms and needs ofyour particular piece of earth overtime.

But that wasn’t going to stopme from growing this year. Itshould never stop anyone. Do whatyou can, with what you’ve got,right where you are.

The garden was redemptive thisyear. The soil wasn’t perfect, but itwas good enough. I got it right.The tomatoes told me so.

Matt Kelly is a writer living in theFinger Lakes, slowly turning his homeinto a self-sufficient, food-independent, backwoods place of hisown. He works with two local farms,Fruition Seeds in Naples andLakestone Family Farm in Farmington.Matt writes regularly atBoonieAdjacent.com.

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In the KitchenC

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SI f you are anything like myfamily, you are likely half-reading this while sitting at atable covered with seed catalogsand drinking a cup of tea.Winter’s coming on—a timewhen we are given a moment totake care of our needs. While werest up, much like our fields, wemust stay well covered to avoidbecoming frostbitten, depleted,and unprepared for the nextgrowing season. But many of usneed practice with self-care.

Early this fall, as the 80-degreedays turned into 40-degree nights,I spoke with Rebecca Hein—community herbalist, activist, andfarmer of Underground Alchemy inAlbany—about how we, ascaretakers of the earth, can turnattention to ourselves in thewinter. The heart of ourconversation concerned somethingbeautifully simple that all of us cando in our kitchens every dayduring the winter: brew somehealth-promoting herbal teas.

Herbs are important year-round, but they becomeincreasingly important as the daysget shorter and the nights lingeron. Many herbalists recommendSt. John’s wort as the mosteffective herb for fighting thedepression of winter, but Rebeccaoften encourages using herbs thathave fewer contraindications, suchas rose, tulsi (sometimes known asHoly Basil), lemon balm, andcalendula. The brain and the heartare inextricably connected, so a teafull of the aromatic and beautifulharvest—reds, yellows, oranges,and pinks—can provide thememory of the sun, hot days, andcool nights and lift your spirits.Herbs for winter support.

Herbs are not pharmaceuticals,and they cannot be taken with theassumption that they will workwithin hours. In fact, many herbsare best taken over the long term,

to find but quite effective. It wasalso recommended by BettyPillsbury, who presented a well-attended workshop titled How toBeat the Winter Blues at last year’sNOFA-NY Winter Conference. I’mgoing to make sure I seek out somemimosa this winter.How to brew your tea. Take

time to discover the herbs that youlike best to both sustain yourwinter nourishment and providethe energy you’ll need for orderingseeds, tending animals, andpreparing for the coming season.An easy practice is to buy a fewounces of nettles and some of theother herbs mentioned above (lessmimosa) and brew a daily infusion.An infusion is a large quantity oftea that you steep overnight(covered so the essential oils of theherbs remain with the water).These herbs can be potentmedicine! The rule of thumb is oneheaping tablespoon of herb (leaf orflower) per cup of boiled water.Rebecca uses one-quarter cup ofloose leaf per quart of water. Imake the infusion before I go tosleep and strain out and compostthe herbs before I go to work. Youcan, of course, use a tea ball andmake smaller batches, but Rebeccareminds me that this remedy hasto be strong enough and drunkfrequently enough foreffectiveness.

Look for brighter colors withyour dried herbs; your nettles

but they can also create tangible,immediate, calming, and upliftingexperiences in the moment. Someof the herbs that Rebecca, andmany other herbalists, suggest forwinter support are adaptogens:nontoxic substances that are heldto increase the body’s ability to

resist the damaging effects ofstress and promote or restorenormal physiological functioning.(This from Merriam Webster!)They are very uplifting—they taketime to do the deep work! Otheradaptogens include nettles,otherwise known as nature’ssuperfood, milky oats, andashwagandha.

Rebecca also recommends anherb that is not an adaptogen butrather is the herb that most closelyresembles an allopathic treatmentfor stress, anxiety, and depression:Albizia or mimosa tree. (The barkof this tree is traditionally used,but the flowers are a spectacularpink, much like the Truffula treefrom The Lorax.) Mimosa is hard

Teas for theWinter Bluesby Jenn Baumstein

More HerbalWisdom

Betty Pillsbury of Green SpiralHerbs will offer a workshop onGrowing and Using Herbs forColds and Flu on January 23at the NOFA-NY 2015 WinterConference.

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should be green, your roses pink,and above all, they should beorganic. Store unused herbs in awell-sealed glass jar in a locationthat does not get a lot of sunlight.

If you are unable to commit tocarrying around a large jar of teaall day, you can take a tincture withyou instead. Practitioners makethese herbal extracts at differentstrengths, but you can safely taketwo to three droppersful per day.Each dropperful is about 30 drops(remember to halve this quantityfor children). Some of the herbslisted above can be found easily asa tincture; Rebecca notes thatmimosa may be found more easilythat way than as a loose herb.Tinctures are a simple way to carefor yourself on the go.

Use this time to reflect on yourown needs and tend to them in thewinter. The herbs I mention in thiscolumn are all easily researchable.If you take any medications or are

pregnant or nursing, it’s alwaysgood to check with your physicianto make sure there will be nopotential adverse effects from aparticular herbal tea or tincture.Rebecca and I suggest you speak

Sources of Herbsu Underground Alchemy

undergroundalchemy.com

u Jeans Greensjeansgreens.com

u Rootwork Herbalsrootworkherbals.com

u Field Apothecary andHerb Farmfieldapothecary.com

u Rainbow’s End Herbsamishtrail.com/business/perrysburg/rainbows-end-herbs

u Mountain Rosemountainroseherbs.com

with a practitioner beforesubscribing to any herbal regimen.See whether they would like toexchange your plants or meat ordairy for a dose of herbal wisdom.Growing those relationships willtruly lead to increased happiness…or at least someone to share teawith this winter.

To find herbalists, check theNOFA-NY directory atnofany.org/directory. You can alsotry a simple search using yourfavorite web browser. Use searchterms such as herb, apothecary,and alchemy.

Jenn Baumstein gardens in Troyduring the week and farms in Argyleon the weekends. She aspires to liveby the phrase “plant seeds and singsongs.” You can drink tea with her ather family’s farm by visitinglanthill.com.

Protecting the natural environment is an integralpart of organic farming. Finding better ways toconserve and enhance natural resources on theirland is naturally of interest to organic farmers andthose who want to farm organically. One source ofhelp for farmers is the Conservation PlanSupporting Organic Transition—also known as CAP138—offered through the Natural ResourcesConservation Service (NRCS). This program helpsnon-organic and transitional farms implementconservation practices that will help them to becomecertified organic. Farmers who already hold organiccertification but wish to transition more acreageinto certified production, or implementconservation practices as part of their organicsystem plan, are also eligible.

The CAP provides funding for a qualifiedTechnical Service Provider (TSP) to conduct an on-site consultation to assess the farm’s individualcircumstances, resources, and goals. Using thisinformation, your TSP will make conservationpractice recommendations that have the potential tobe partially funded through the NRCS. The TSP isspecially trained to ensure that each conservationpractice recommended in the plan correlates torequirements for achieving full organic certificationthrough the USDA’s National Organic Program(NOP). Possible conservation recommendations caninclude buffers, cover crops, mulch, conservation

cover for wildlife habitat, grassed waterways,fencing, irrigation, and compost facilities.

How the CAP Program Works“Both established and beginning farmers can

potentially benefit from participation in the USDANatural Resources Conservation Services’Environmental Quality Incentives Program (EQIP)or other USDA conservation programs,” said JohnWhitney, District Conservationist in the East AuroraNRCS office. Producers can sign up at any timethrough their local NRCS offices, Whitney explained,and an in-person visit is the best way to start. It’spossible to work through the application processremotely, but it is much easier to make anappointment to have NRCS staff help with theapplication process, especially for new operationsthat may not already have records established withthe USDA, Whitney said.

A CAP is a special category of EQIP applications.CAPs help set the stage for future implementation ofconservation practices, according to Whitney. Aslong as a farmer files an application by the rankingcutoff date and meets eligibility requirements, andas long as there is a TSP available to create the plans,these CAPs are almost certain to be approved.

Once the farm receives approval for CAP funding,an approved TSP is contracted to complete the planwith the farm—that’s what I do. In my role as a TSP,

help forFarmers GoingOrganicby Rachel Myers

A program that helps farmers transition to certified organic status and improve andprotect their farms’ soil, water, and other natural resources.

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Information about USDA NRCS programs isavailable on the USDA-NRCS web page atnrcs.usda.gov. Click on the Youtube button on thehome page, and it will take you to several videos,including a Getting Started with NRCS video.Another great place to begin is the Get Started withNRCS link on the website: nrcs.usda.gov/GetStarted. This link also includes an office-locatoroption as well more-detailed descriptions ofprograms and assistance options.

I visit farms to determine current practices as well asobtain any samples and information regardingerosion potential required to complete the plan. Ialso interview the farmer, particularly to learn abouthis or her long-term goals. With this information inhand, I can create a plan that fits the individual farmin order to facilitate future endeavors. Once the planis submitted and approved by the NRCS, theapplicant becomes eligible to receive funding(through the EQIP) to implement the conservationplans recommended through the CAP.

Practices can be traditional conservationmeasures such as grassed waterways, diversions,strip-cropping, cover crops, or conservation tillage,or special measures such as seasonal high tunnels ormicroirrigation. “Seasonal high tunnels have been ofparticular interest to many smaller operations inrecent years,” said Whitney. “Whether for extendingthe growing season or to allow for economically

efficient production of high-value crops throughoutthe year, seasonal high tunnels can add to theproduction options on many farms.”

What Farmers Are SayingFalkimmer Farms Organic Growers in Eden are

recent recipients of CAP 138 funding for their farm.Here’s what farm owners Brian and Lisa Falkowskisay about their experience: “As beginning farmers, toobtain our goal of creating high-quality, nutrient-rich produce, we had to make many decisions. Withlimited previous farming experience, not having thebasis for some of these critical decisions made somechoices seem almost random at times. We knew wewanted to grow organically, but it wasn’t exactly

clear to us what mistakes might prolong thecertification process. Working with the NRCS, wewere able to work with an experienced guide to helpus with the Organic System Plan and making someof the early decisions that were critical to ouroperation.” The conservation plan introduced Brianand Lisa to concepts they hadn’t previouslyconsidered. For instance, based on the erosionstudies that I conducted, they were able to see actualsoil loss numbers related to their topography androw orientation. Using actual numbers to qualifythis practice, they are assured of the correct choiceThis, along with other recommended practices, willsignificantly reduce their topsoil loss. “We still havea steep learning curve to overcome, but the technicaldata accumulated from the conservation programhas enabled us to make informed decisions,” Brianand Lisa note. “We still have many more choices tomake, and mistakes to learn from, but we are betterprepared.”

Arden Farm in East Aurora also participated inthe CAP 138. Arden Farm is primarily a vegetableoperation that markets its produce through a CSAand at farmers markets. Daniel Roelof, owner andmanager, appreciated how the CAP process allowedhim to formulate long-term goals regarding thesustainability of his operation. I was able to help himfocus on the most effective ways to increase crophealth and soil fertility, such as a compostingfacility, cover crops, crop rotation, and mulching.Roelof especially valued the way the plan integratedlivestock into his vegetable production throughpractical implementation recommendations such asfencing, water lines, livestock walkways, andforage/pasture planting conservation practices.

Rachel Myers graduated from SUNY Buffalo with a self-designed major in Sustainable Community. She hasbeen supporting organic farming by milking cows,planting tomatoes, and inspecting organic farms eversince—and loving it!

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Implementing recommendations from a CAP 138conservation plan is reducing soil erosion at FalkimmerFarm in Eden, New York. Photo courtesy of Falkimmer Farm

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This article is an adapted version of a story that originally appeared in the Summer 2013 issue of Cornell’s Small FarmsQuarterly (see the SFQ website at smallfarms.cornell.edu/quarterly/.)

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Stan Ward grows elderberry, Echinacea, and otherperennial medicinals on his upland farm in centralVermont, but last year, he also planted them intoone of three riparian buffer plantings along the MadRiver, continuing a project that began in 2012. Theelderberry will absorb floodwaters, keep farm fieldrunoff out of the river, and reduce erosion. And,they will generate income as an agriculturalenterprise.

The river’s edge can be tense territory, whereconservation and agriculture seem permanently inconflict. Farmers, working with razor-thin profitmargins, want the rich soils in production.Conservationists want floodplains to grow nativeecosystems that absorb floodwaters, remediatepollution, and provide wildlife habitat. At the sametime, the river’s edge can also be a place of greatcollaboration. Stan’s plantings are innovative, inpart, because he’s establishing them in partnershipwith his local watershed group and the localconservation district.

Planting elderberry in the buffer creates whatStan calls a “win- win-win” for watershed health,wildlife conservation, and the local farm economy.Stan isn’t the only one interested. A small butgrowing number of farmers, conservationists, andland managers in Vermont are beginning to addproductive buffers to their toolboxes. Farmers are

planting on commercial and homestead scales acrossthe state. By directly integrating agriculture andconservation, these working buffers could helpfarms and watersheds alike adapt to increasedflooding and the new climate “normal” of the 21stcentury.

Rivers and FloodingRiver channels support an extraordinary

abundance of life. Water continually shifts andmeanders, carving banks and revealing new land. Onany summer evening turtles bask on gravel barswhile swallows and kingfishers nest in steep exposedbanks. These habitat features are found nowhereelse in the wider landscape and are constantlychanging as the river moves. When rivers flood fromsnowmelt or storms, they deposit rich silt and sandin their floodplains, supporting riparian forests andriverbank meadows. These in turn provide food andshelter for countless wildlife species.

For farmers, rivers are a blessing and curse. Theyprovide extremely fertile and easily plowedagricultural soils, but the threat of damaging floodsis ever-present and increasing with climate change.In late August 2011, Tropical Storm Irene dumped 4to 8 inches of rain throughout Vermont in less than24 hours.

Flooding eroded entire fields, carried away barns,livestock, and greenhouses, and buried crops in sandand gravel. Almost 15,000 acres of Vermontfarmland sustained damage; farmers in the state lostat least $20 million in one day.

Intact riparian landscapes can mitigate theimpacts of flooding. Flooding along the Otter Creek

Riparian buffer plantings can reap rewardsfor nature and farmers.

Elderberryand Beyond by Liz Brownlee and Connor Stedman

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from Irene impacted 92 farmers in the vicinity ofRutland, Vermont. Thirty miles downstream, inMiddlebury, only 41 farmers reported damage.While crop damage was similar in both places,farmland impacts were not: the flood damaged only60 acres of land in the Middlebury area, compared toover 4,000 acres surrounding Rutland. Thedifference lies, in part, in a large system of intactswamps, wetlands, and floodplain buffers along theOtter Creek between Rutland and Middlebury. Theseecosystems slowed and absorbed the floodwaters,shielding many Middlebury farms from the worst ofthe storm’s effects.

How Riparian Buffers WorkRiparian buffers retain strips of natural

vegetation along riverbanks, generally 20 to 50 feetwide. They mimic larger riparian ecosystems andallow natural river processes and communities of lifeadapted to floodplains to continue withinagricultural landscapes. Buffers improve waterquality, in particular, by acting as giant filters. Highlevels of nitrogen and phosphorus in agriculturalrunoff can disrupt river food webs and cause algaeblooms. The trees, shrubs, and perennial herbs andgrasses in riparian buffers slow overland watermovement, allowing sediments and nutrients todeposit into the soil and keeping pollutants out ofwaterways. The root systems of these riparianplants, adapted to frequent flooding, rapidly absorbexcess nutrients and make use of what wouldotherwise be waste. Buffers are essential for

swimming, migratory fish breeding, and other riverfunctions that depend on water quality.

A host of government and local programsencourage farmers to plant riparian buffers, butmany farmers choose not to participate. Somefarmers simply can’t afford to take any land out ofproduction. Others don’t want to see productiveland sit “idle.” Often, farmers simply don’t want tosign on the government’s dotted line. They want tomanage their land independently, and state andfederal buffer planting programs often requirecontracts and include usage restrictions. Localprograms may only require a handshake agreement,but even in those cases planting the river’s edge withtrees restricts farmers’ options. Some dislike theaesthetic of a brambly forest hiding the river fromview. For these reasons and many others, farmersoften avoid or flatly reject planting riparian bufferson their land.

But a new idea is showing up, a system thatbrings farmers back to the table. Growingagriculturally productive buffers is a strategy thatcan make sense for both farmers andconservationists.

An Emerging OptionAgriculturally productive buffers (APBs) are a

form of agroforestry, integrating forest managementwith agricultural production. They incorporate theessential elements of traditional riparian buffers,but also include perennial crop systems. Typically,the portion of the APB nearest to the riverbank,

The physical features of riverbeds continually change with cycles of flooding. Photo by Connor Stedman

Agriculturally productive buffers generate ecosystem services and produce perennial crops. Illustration by Kelly Finan.

Zone 2Flood tolerant treesor shrubs grown forfruit, nut, floral,timber, or othercrops.

Zone 3Perennial grassesgrown for hay,livestock bedding,or biomass.

Zone 1Native riparianbuffer. Floodtolerant species.Little or no harvest.

50 feet

Stream

Cropland

Grass Shrubs

Zone 1 (see diagram), is restored as natural riparianforest. Zone 2 is an alley of flood-tolerant shrub orsmall tree crops, such as elderberries, hazelnuts, orfencepost black locusts. Finally, the field-side Zone 3grows late-cut hay, keeping perennial grass coverduring the spring and late fall flooding season.

Productive buffers provide flood-resistantagricultural enterprises while incorporating naturalriver processes into farmland: flood tolerance,deeply taprooted trees, year-round plant cover, androom for river meanders.

Agriculturally productive buffers may overcomethe obstacles preventing farmers from participating

in the current buffer planting programs. Thesebuffers keep farmland in production and helpfarmers take care of both their land and theirbottom line. There are no government contracts andno paperwork, though some groups are working toestablish local funding sources and bestmanagement practices. It’s also clear that manydetails of productive buffer systems will need to belearned over time. In a changing climate andeconomy, this flexibility and adaptation may well becritical.

Collaborating is proving key to the success ofproductive buffer projects. In Vermont, localnonprofits are helping farmers with logistics, andsome are finding funding for planting strips ofnative floodplain trees within APBs.

These collaborations are allowing farmers to growmuch needed riparian buffers, increase floodresilience, improve water quality, create wildlifehabitat, and grow crops. Crops currently planted ascomponents of productive buffers in Vermontinclude nuts (hazelnuts, black walnuts) fruit (pears,currants, highbush cranberries), fence posts (blacklocust), forage (late cut hay), and, of course, StanWard’s elderberries.

Liz Brownlee is a farmer and conservationist in southernIndiana. She can be reached at liz.brownlee@yahoo.comand at www.nightfallfarm.com. Connor Stedman is anagroforestry specialist based in the mid-Hudson Valleyand an organizer of the 2015 Carbon Farming Course.He can be reached at connor.stedman@gmail.com.

Carbon Farming and Climate Change WorkshopIf you’d like to learn more about riparian

buffers and other strategies to help makingyour farm more climate resilient, considerattending the Carbon Farming and ClimateChange intensive workshop scheduled forFriday, January 23 during the NOFA-NYAnnual Conference in Saratoga. ConnorStedman will be the presenter, and theworkshop will cover strategies for slowingclimate change by storing atmosphericcarbon in farmland, as well as for adaptingfarms to a warmer world. For moreinformation about the workshop, visitnofany.org/events/winter-conference.

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No farmer or gardener who lives in the temperatezones will likely be deterred by mere weather fromenjoying the outdoors year-round. So it’s alwaystime to gear up for a trip to the mountains andbackwoods. Many organic minds are just nowcontemplating the joys of cross-country skiing, snowshoeing,birding, and general rambling in ourlatitude’s unmatched wilderness andcultivated woodlands.

And there sure are plenty ofgorgeous getaways where I live inWestern New York. For example,everybody loves Letchworth StatePark, and those in the know go toStony Brook State Park, just south ofDansville. If you live in Central NewYork, you may be in love with GreenLakes State Park; the Capital Districthas great attractions in and aroundLake George and Saratoga Springs;and downstaters have BearMountain State Park and many othermagnets for recreation.

There are also tens of thousandsof acres of public lands in our statethat are, in a sense, “off the map.” (Atleast they don’t show up on the usualroad maps; mapping apps and GPS do a much betterjob.) These are our New York State Forests andWildlife Management Areas, the legacy of more thana century of land-restoration projects. These are notjust recreational open lands, however: they’re thevital organs of the region’s food and water systems,natural and agricultural.

How so? Beyond being John Muirish temples ofthe people, our state forests, and state policiesimpacting private forest lands as well, have made it

Nature Callsby Jack Bradigan Spula

This story is based on an article that appeared in the July/August 2014 issue of the Rutabaga Rap: The Newsletter of theAbundance Cooperative Market.

The woods as lure and curepossible for farming to survive in parts of New Yorkwhere it was almost eradicated generations ago. Youcould even say the kind of organic agriculture andsilviculture we are committed to could not exist inour bioregion without our restored woodlands.

Forests Destroyed, Forests RenewedBy the 1880s, according to the New York State

Department of Environmental Conservation(NYSDEC), forest coverage had been reduced to just

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Forested hillsides are a beautiful and valuable backdrop as New York state’sfarmers tend their fields, such as this scene of chopping haylage at Perry-Dice Valley Farm, a NOFA-NY certified organic dairy farm in Allegany. Photo by Curtis Perry

25 percent of New York’s total land area. Today it’s63 percent—quite an improvement, though stillmuch less than circa 1600, when the forest cover waspunctuated by vast fields cultivated by NativeAmericans but still largely unbroken. Getting downto 25 percent required an ambitious ecocide, alongwith the genocide of native peoples. One study saysthat from 1870 to 1910, forests were beingdestroyed at the rate of 13.5 square miles per day. ByWorld War I, 190 million acres of woods had been

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leveled for crops, pasturage, construction material,and fuel.

This precipitated the collapse of agriculture inmany places. Lands deemed marginal—e.g. hilly,rocky, sandy—took an especially hard beating. Oldphotos show terrain completely stripped of soil. Thiswasn’t caused solely by bad farming practices onsoils that never should have been plowed or evenexposed. Classical economics was at work, too, asfarmers were condemned to go bust in various

“panics” that preceded the coup de grace, the GreatDepression, during which the exodus from the landaccelerated greatly.

But even before the Depression had begun, thestate had stepped in, buying vast tracts of vacantland. (The displaced farmers got shortchanged; theland went for bargain-basement prices.) Newforestry techniques came into vogue, and by thetime of the New Deal and especially the CivilianConservation Corps, thousands of young workerswere planting millions of tree seedlings on newpublic lands all across New York.

Now in the twenty-first century, we’re living onthe forest bounty created by a mix of virtuous labor,folly, and injustice. But we still can love our restoredwoodlands—and restore them further. Our publicforests in New York total more than 787,000 acres.(Note that does not include the acreage in the ForestPreserve of the Adirondacks and Catskills.) Theseforests are heavily concentrated in the Southern Tierand Tug Hill areas and other parts of the NorthCountry. An especially nice grouping lies in Alleganyand Steuben counties and the southern FingerLakes. Chances are that no matter where you live inthe state, there’s a forest within an easy drive, or arewarding bicycle ride, of your home. One of myfaves is the Keeney Swamp State Forest, a short hopfrom Nunda. But as with religion, there are manyparadises to choose from.

Treasures of BiodiversityThe state forests, WMAs, and other public

preserves—because of their size, contiguity,

strategic location in upland areas, and wealth ofmicrohabitats such as remote gullies and cliffs—arerepositories of biodiversity. They serve asirreplaceable laboratories for efforts to re-establishecosystems like those the Hudson River Schoolpainters knew (those paintings, by the way, used tobe dismissed as exaggerations and fantasies, butnow we know better). And our agriculturedownstream will benefit from purer ambient air andwater, gentler runoff, continuous aquifer recharge,and more.

Think of this the next time a big storm strikes, a type of occurrence that won’t be rare in our era of climate change. As organic producers andconsumers, we’ll see our local foodsheds protected in large part by public lands that take the blow. And they not only take it, they turn it into ecological gold.

Jack Bradigan Spula is a Rochester-based alternativejournalist, environmental and social-justice activist,musician, and poet. He’s as committed to the wildernessand open spaces as to the urban neighborhood he haslong called home.

Before You GoNYSDEC allows primitive camping for no

charge on State Forests (not WMAs) for up tothree consecutive days without a formalpermit. There are certain exceptions, plusregulations that must be followed:check the NYSDEC website atdec.ny.gov/lands/40672.html, for maps,descriptions, links, etc.

Food JusticeCertificationby Elizabeth Henderson

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When he heard that GreenStar Natural FoodsMarket had been awarded Food JusticeCertification, Joe Romano, marketing manager,declared: “GreenStar is thrilled to partner with theAgricultural Justice Project by receiving their FoodJustice Certification. We are pleased not only toreceive Food Justice Certification ourselves, but topromote the fair business practices it represents toour members, shoppers and to our community as awhole. Having a standard that ‘measures whatmatters’ ensures that workers and producers arefairly treated.”

NOFA is one of the four founding partners of theAgricultural Justice Project (AJP), a collaborativenonprofit initiative to create fairness and equity inour food system through the development andimplementation of social justice standards fororganic and sustainable agriculture. NOFA’s partnersin AJP are Rural Advancement FoundationInternational (RAFI-USA), Comité de Apoyo a losTrabajadores Agrícolas/Farmworker SupportCommittee (CATA), and Florida OrganicGrowers/Quality Certification Services (FOG/QCS).

Although fairness has been a basic principle inorganic agriculture throughout the years, organicstandards have focused on production practices forfarming and processing. Government programs suchas the USDA’s National Organic Program are silenton the subjects of social relations on farms or inprocessing plants and the pricing of organic farmproducts. To bring attention to the importance offair pricing and the need for respect and living wagesfor all jobs in the organic supply chain, AJP hasdeveloped a market-based food label for socialjustice and economic equity that will now be

appearing on products in New York State andthroughout the country.

Why the Label MattersI can hear farmers and their customers asking,

“Why add another label? Doesn’t the organicpremium keep farms profitable? Can’t we assumethat organic farmers are fair employers?”

Family-scale farmers are proud, and many arefiercely independent. Unless you know a farmer well,you will not learn from him or her that the realitytoday is that farmers, even local organic farmerswho sell direct, have a hard time making ends meet.While they may be building equity in their farmbusinesses, many farmers are in debt. The farmfamily that lives entirely on farm earnings is rare.Farmers who want to provide a middle-class incomefor their families depend on the off-farm earningsand health insurance from a family member’s job. Asa consequence, few farmers pay living wages to thepeople who work on their farms.

In 2013, the NOFA Domestic Fair Tradecommittee surveyed organic farmers in theNortheast. Six hundred farmers—most of them

An update on the Agricultural JusticeProject

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that are covered by the AJP standards:

u Fair pricing for farmers

u Workers’ and farmers’ rights to freedom ofassociation and collective bargaining

u Fair wages and benefits for workers

u Fair and equitable contracts for farmers/buyers

u Clear conflict resolution policies for farmers orfood business owners/managers and workers

u Workplace health and safety

u Clean and safe farmworker housing

u Learning contracts for interns and apprentices

u No full-time child labor, but carefully supervisedparticipation of children on farms

Why Verification MattersFrom the point of view of farm workers, the AJP

approach to verifying the standards is especiallyimportant. Because of the history of farm workerabuse in this country, the level of trust is low. Forworkers to trust a label that claims Food Justice, thecertification has to include solid verification. Foodworkers give AJP high marks because the programrequires inspection by a team of two—a certificationstaffer and a trained worker representative whointerviews workers separately from their managers.The AJP process has earned a positive evaluationfrom the Domestic Fair Trade Association (DFTA).

certified organic—filled out some part of the survey;350 completed it. Catherine Lea and Becca Berkeywrote about the survey results in the Winter 2013issue of New York Organic News, and you can findthat article online at nofany.org/about/newsletter.

In their survey comments, farmers said theyaspire to pay fair wages—but cannot earn enoughfrom sales to cover the living wages and package ofbenefits they would prefer and that would helpretain good workers, reduce training costs, and maketheir farms more resilient. Despite good intentionsto live up to the International Federation of OrganicAgriculture Movements (IFOAM) Principle ofFairness, most farmers who hire workers pay justover minimum wage, and the only benefit theyprovide is workers’ compensation, which is requiredby law.

A few outstanding farms, however, are payingliving wages and up to $20 per hour to theirworkers. On these farms, the farmers pay as muchattention to the quality of life of their workers asthey do to the quality of their soils. Food JusticeCertification is a way for customers to recognize,encourage, and reward these farms and the foodbusinesses that pay decent prices and negotiate fair contracts.

Food Justice Certification ensures that there is a strong connection between environmental and social values. Here is a summary of the issues

Participants in the Food Justice Certification training in Fall 2013 celebrate in front of the mural at GreenStar NaturalFoods Market in Ithaca. Photo courtesy of Elizabeth Henderson

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You can read it on the DFTA website at thedfta.org.In the fall of 2013, AJP conducted its first

Northeast training in Binghamton and Ithaca.Eleven people, including certification inspectors andfarm workers, completed the training, and AJP isready to roll in the Northeast. The first threeentities in New York—West Haven Farm, GreenStarNatural Foods Market and The Piggery—have beencertified to use the Food Justice Certified label.(Elsewhere in the country, the first farms havereceived AJP certification in Florida and California.)

For GreenStar, achieving this certification did notinvolve making a lot of changes in their labor orpurchasing practices. In buying from area farmers,GreenStar has taken the lead in paying fair pricesand negotiating contracts, and the store has longbeen recognized for paying living wages. West Havenand the Piggery both had excellent labor policies,but nothing on paper. The template for policies inthe toolkit for farmers on the AJP website helpedthem document their good practices for verification.Heather Sanford, co-owner and manager of ThePiggery, explains their decision to apply for AJPcertification: “The Piggery has long been interestedin supporting and recognizing the faces behindagricultural work. There have been many wonderfuldiscussions and actions centered around thetreatment of our lands and livestock, but we

strongly feel that more needs to be done to honorthe people behind agriculture. Food JusticeCertification has been integral in helping us worktoward that goal.” Farmer John Bokaer-Smith tookthe trouble to clarify and document his farm’s laborpolicies saying, “The success of West Haven Farmdepends on the hard work of the terrific, dedicatedpeople who help make it run.”

The essential message of Food JusticeCertification is that when we change relationshipson farms towards respect and fairness, we movetoward sustainability. Without fair prices, our farmswill continue to struggle and economic pressures willcontinue to wear out good people and undermineloving relationships. Farms and food businesses thatadopt the Food Justice Certified label of AJP will beable to attract customers who care about the peoplewho produce their food, and loyal customers willhelp these businesses achieve financial viability.Many NOFA member farms and businesses meet theAJP standards—the Food Justice Certified label is away to reward their good work in the marketplace.

Elizabeth Henderson farmed for Peacework OrganicCSA, which is now in its 26th season, and is coauthor ofSharing the Harvest and Whole Farm Planning. She is amember of the NOFA-NY Board of Directors.

The essential message of Food JusticeCertification is that when we changerelationships on farms towardsrespect and fairness, we move towardsustainability.

The Small-Scale Food Processors Association ofNew York will offer a series of workshops calledGet Ready, Get Set, Go! on Saturday at the WinterConference. The workshops will addressquestions and answers for food producersinterested in extending the marketing season bydeveloping value-added farm products andtaking them into the marketplace.

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NOFA-NY News

soybeans, small grains (wheat, spelt, barley, oats,triticale, and heritage grains), dark red kidney beans,and edamame soybeans. The Martens own andoperate Lakeview Organic Grain, an organic feed andseed business serving the needs of Northeastorganic farmers.

As always, attendees can expect expert andengaging presentations on topics of organic fruit,vegetable, grain, livestock, and dairy production;urban farming; agricultural policy; food justice;gardening; homesteading; business and marketing;and beginning farming. In a nod to the incrediblework that has been done in the realm of organicgrain production and value-added products, we’reexcited to present on Friday, January 23, additionalgrain-related activities and a roundtable discussionabout the Renaissance of Grain in the Northeast. Allthese activities, not to mention a trade show, booksignings, live music, movie screenings, discussiongroups, and the chance for members to vote onpolicy resolutions during the Annual Meeting areincluded in the regular conference registration price.We can’t wait to see you in January!

Join Us at the Conference

“Soil: The Root of the movement” is thetheme of the 2015 Winter Conference.

The 33rd Annual Northeast Organic FarmingAssociation of New York’s (NOFA-NY) OrganicFarming and Gardening Conference will be heldJanuary 23 to 25, 2015 at the Saratoga Hilton andCity Center in Saratoga Springs. It will include morethan 80 workshops focused on organic farming andgardening. This year’s theme, Soil: The Root of theMovement, honors the invaluable nature of healthysoil and highlights how it is the key to organicagriculture. Everything we do in organic agricultureties into the soil, and many of the intensive andregular-session workshops, as well as our keynoteaddresses, relates to that theme.

Wes Jackson of the Land Institute will be thekeynote speaker on Friday, January 23. The LandInstitute was founded by Mr. Jackson in 1976 toaddress the issues of soil loss and degradation,ecosystem destruction, and high energy useassociated with agriculture. On Saturday, January24, NOFA-NY will honor Klaas and Mary-HowellMartens of Lakeview Organic Grains as the 2015NOFA-NY Farmers of the Year. The Martens have acertified organic farm that incorporates soil-buildingtechniques on its 1,400 acres of organic corn,

Meet, Vote, Be Part of NOFA-NY’s Future!

The annual meeting is your chance to getthe latest report on our organization’s workand to weigh in on plans for the future. Helpdetermine what issues NOFA-NY works on inthe coming years, vote on 2015 policyresolutions, and elect NOFA-NY boardmembers. Only members may vote, so joinNOFA-NY as a member before the meeting!Go to www.nofany.org/join to join online.

The annual member meeting will takeplace on Saturday, January 24, 2015 at 11a.m. Admission is open to and FREE for allcurrent NOFA-NY members. To see thepolicy resolutions that will be voted on, go towww.nofany.org/policy-work/resolutions.We hope that you can join us at thisimportant meeting.

Please update your address books:

NOFA-NY, Inc.5970 County Road 41Farmington, NY 14425

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We’ve moved!In mid-October, NOFA-NY, Inc. relocated to a

new office space in beautiful Farmington (on theoutskirts of Rochester). Our phone numbers and e-mail addresses will remain the same, and NOFA-NYCertified Organic, LLC will remain at itsBinghamton office.

Our new home is in the historic Hathaway House.This home was one of the first homes in the area,built in 1793 by revolutionary war veteran IsaacHathaway. The description of this effort and theearly years of the house were recorded in 1878 bythe town historian, and later transcribed by DonnaWalker Judge:

“District No. 6 lies west of No. 13, and contains thehamlet of West Farmington. Hither came IsaacHATHAWAY, from Adams, Massachusetts, andlocated at what has since been known as Hathaway’sCorners. He was a companion to COMSTOCK onthe journey west in 1790, and conveyed his family,consisting of a wife and two children, through thewilderness upon an ox-sled. Think of this, you whoride in the palace-car luxuriously and swiftly over theNew York Central, and bestow a grateful thoughtupon the memories of those whose labors laid thefoundation for present conveniences. It is said thatthe framed barn built by Ananias MCMILLEN for Mr.HATHAWAY, in 1793, was the first structure of thekind in Farmington. Otis COMSTOCK and Huldah

FREEMAN were joined in the holy bands of wedlockin 1792, by Dr. ATWATER, of Canandaigua, at thedwelling of Isaac HATHAWAY. This wedding was thefirst in the town.”

The house was a reputed stop on theUnderground Railroad and most recently was usedas a music school. There is a bathroom upstairs thatis “papered” with sheets of music that were found inthe basement of the house by the previous tenants.The grounds still include several old barns and evena trolley stop that was active years ago. We’repleased to have the opportunity to work from ahistoric farmhouse in a rural setting.

NOFA-NY's new office location: Hathaway House inFarmington.

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News from Certification

reimbursement. For general information about theOCCSP in your state, please contact your state’sDepartment of Ag & Markets: in New York contactAnne St. Cyr at 518-485-9974 oranne.st.cyr@agriculture.ny.gov. In Pennsylvaniacontact Kyle B. Heffner at 717-836-9373 orkyheffner@pa.gov.National Organic Program updates: The

USDA National Organic Program (NOP) has recentlypublished guidance on the use of brand or companynames containing the word “organic.” This detailswhat the NOP considers acceptable and notacceptable uses of the word “organic” in names andis available on their website at tinyurl.com/ams-usda-gov-organicuse. If you currently use “organic”in your company or product name, be sure to checkthis out.

Additionally, the NOP has announced thatbiodegradable biobased mulch film will be allowed inorganic crop production effective October 30, 2014.Contact your certifier for specific products that willbe allowed.

“Organic” at farmers markets and CSAs: It isimportant for consumers to be savvy about whatthey are actually getting when they buy “organic”products at farmers markets and through a CSA.Farmers and vendors who use the word “organic” todescribe their products or practices in the

Fees, New Guidelines, and Residue Testing

Our crop of new applicants for certification—74 in all—has kept us on our toes in theCertification office. The new applicants comprised44 crop/livestock, 26 new dairies, and 4 newhandlers. The total number of operations certifiedby NOFA-NY Certified Organic, LLC now stands at694. This year overall, we experienced a 4 percentgrowth rate in the total number of operations wecertify.Help with certification fees: Good news for

farmers who are considering becoming certifiedorganic! Recent passage of the Farm Bill includedreauthorization of and increased funding for theOrganic Certification Cost Share Program (OCCSP).The program reimburses organic producers andhandlers for 75 percent of their organic certificationcosts up to a maximum of $750 per scope (operationtype, such as crops, livestock, handling, wild crops).Approximately $13 million has been allocatednationwide for each fiscal year through 2018. Eachstate is allocated funds based on the number ofcertified operations in the state as well as past fundusage. We work very closely with our producers toassist them in the process of applying for this

To meet the ever-increasing demand for support for producers of organic produce and products, we have hired a number of new staff. Please welcome (from left): Office Manager Valerie Rezmerski,Certification Specialists Rebecca Heller-Steinberg and Lauren Tonti, and Certification CoordinatorsPamela Coleman and Caitlan Reilly.

For inquiries regarding organic certification,please contact us at:

NOFA-NY Certified Organic, LLC840 Upper Front StreetBinghamton, NY 13905

Phone: 607-724-9851Fax: 607-724-9853

Email: certifiedorganic@nofany.orgWeb: www.nofany.org/organic-certification

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marketplace must comply with the USDA organicregulations.

The Organic Foods Production Act (OFPA) states:“No person may affix a label to, or provide othermarketing information concerning, an agriculturalproduct if that label or information implies, directlyor indirectly, that such product is produced andhandled using organic methods, except inaccordance with the OFPA. Most farms andbusinesses that grow, handle, or process organicproducts must be certified, with only a fewexceptions. Producers and handlers that sell lessthan $5,000 per year of organic products are exemptfrom certification.”

If you’re a consumer and you see the word“organic” on a farmers market stand, be sure to askthe farmers about their organic certification andgrowing practices. Residue testing: NOP regulations require all

organic certifying agencies to conduct residuetesting every year on a minimum of 5 percent of theoperations they certify. Jillian Zeigler has taken onthe role as our Inspector Coordinator and ResidueTesting Inspector. For 2014, we have collectedsamples from 41 farms. We would like to extend our

warm appreciation for the wonderful cooperation wereceived from all of these farmers. This residuetesting has been a vital tool in monitoringcompliance, preventing fraud, and boostingconsumer confidence in the organic label. Thesetests provide indicators of potential pollen drift,pesticide drift, and direct prohibited-substanceapplications. Several farmers who had been selectedthis year indicated they plan on using copies of theirtesting results to help educate their conventionalfarming relatives and friends as to the integrity anddiligence of this organic program.

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Why Local Organic

Growing Food,Enriching Livesby Steve Rockcastle, Green Heron Growers

The passion that my wife, Julie,and I hold for growing certifiedorganic food started with ourdesire to make a living off the landand our unwillingness to workaway from our home base and inthe corporate world. In 1992, westarted running a music festivalcalled The Great Blue Heron MusicFestival on our 200-plus acres ofland. (Now in its 23rd year!) Butwe also felt the need to make ourtotal living off our land.

In 2007, we started growingShiitake mushrooms in ourhemlock grove, following theadvice of the president of theCornell Mushroom Club. Sincethen we have grown toover two thousand logsin production yearly. In2008 we branched outto raising certified-organic broilerchickens using the JoelSalatin chicken-tractormethod. We raise thebirds on pasture that iscertified organic,moving the chickenstwice daily to freshgrass. They also receivecertified organic feed.(We are certified byNOFA-NY CertifiedOrganic, LLC.)

In 2009 wepurchased 10 RedDevon Cross steers andstarted a 100 percentgrass-fed beefoperation. We nowhave 33 animals,including a newlyacquired purebred Red Devon bullnamed Dude. We rotationally grazeour cows using managed intensivegrazing during the grazing season.With this method, the cows aremoved to new sections of fresh,lush paddock every day. Winterfeed consists of sweet rounds of

The market is our favorite partof being farmers because we arevery passionate about why we raisecertified organic food. The marketgives us the opportunity to talkwith people about quality food andwhy organic and 100 percentgrass-fed are not fads, but ratherthe way their food should be raised.So many people want to know howto eat well, and we find that theywill search out our organic foods.Our valued customers appreciatewhat we bring to them for theirtable, and that gives us greatsatisfaction. We enjoy raisingheritage breeds and heirloomvegetables and using organicpractices to bring our customersfood that is truly good for them toeat. When it is all said and done,that puts a smile on my face and awarm feeling in my belly.

Steve and Julie Rockcastle are theowners of Green Heron Growers inPanama, NY, where they raise 100percent grass-fed heritage beef,certified organic chicken, shiitakemushrooms, and vegetables forconscious eaters who value qualityproducts, animal welfare, andstewardship of the land. The farm’smission statement is: “Hosting events,growing food, enriching lives.”

Steve and Julie Rockcastle Photo courtesy of GreenHeron Growers

sell the excess of that bounty alongwith our meats and mushrooms atthe Williamsville Farmers Marketin Buffalo during the summer andat the Horsefeathers WinterMarket in Buffalo and theFredonia Winter Market duringthe winter.

baleage and dry hay. Our animalshave a wonderful life—with justone bad day.

Our vegetable production ismainly for our own pantry, but we

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NON-PROFIT ORG.U.S. POSTAGE

PAIDPERMIT NO. 1396

Rochester, NY

Northeast Organic Farming Association of New York, Inc.5970 County Road 41 • Farmington, New York 14425www.nofany.org