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Neal Martin 2011 reviews

NV A A Badenhorst Family Wines Funky White BlendA A Badenhorst Family Wines A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa

Source Reviewer Rating Maturity Cost

eRobertParker.comAug 2011 Neal Martin 91 Drink 2011 -

2015

Adi has provisionally named his Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier non-vintage blend “Funky White.” Blended with eight other varieties and aged under flor but not fortified and with a blend of four different vintages, it has a striking nose that you will either love or hate?Jura meets Swartland perhaps? The palate is very well balanced with a smooth texture and is not as oxidized as the nose implies. Apricot, lemon rind, honeycomb and walnut furnish the poised finish. This evinces individualistic winemaking, but the bottom line is that it tastes good and it tastes “cerebral.” Drink now-2015+.

Adi Badenhorst is a name to drop when it comes to the future of South African wine. Along with Eben Sadie, he has been at the forefront of putting Swartland on the map. On the surface he has a devil-may-care attitude but underneath is a gifted winemaker who now suffuses his wines with that all-important ingredient. Personality. His winery located in Paardeberg, might look a bit cobbled together, but the wines that he vinifies from his 28-hectares of bush vine are individual and uncompromising?and delicious.

Importer: Broadbent Selections Inc., San Francisco, Cali. Tel 415-292-8466.

2010 A A Badenhorst Family Wines Secateurs Red BlendA A Badenhorst Family Wines A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2013 $17

A blend of 74% Shiraz, 10% Cinsault plus Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre aged for 14 months in old French casks, the entry-level 2010 Secateurs Red Blend has ripe raspberry, blackberry and wild hedgerow on the nose that is well defined and very natural. The palate is medium-bodied, supple on the entry with juicy bright red berries, raspberry, red currant and has a touch of citrus peel lending freshness and vitality. Drink now-2013.



http://www.erobertparker.com/members/info/legend.asp


http://www.aabadenhorst.com/


2009 A A Badenhorst Family Wines WhiteA A Badenhorst Family Wines A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $42

Bottled in January, the 2009 Family White Blend is a blend of around ten white varieties that Adi tried his best to remember. We got as far as Chenin Blanc, Grenache Gris, Palomino, Clairette and Semillon, but we might have been there all day. The striking thing about the nose is the definition, for the 2009 shows greater precision than the 2008, whilst the Palomino does indeed impart a sherry-like tincture. The palate is supremely well balanced and demonstrates greater tension and vibrancy than the 2008, as if the grapes are working together, moving in the same direction. It is very focused on the finish and should age beautifully. Drink now-2016+.



2008 A A Badenhorst Family Wines Noble Late HarvestA A Badenhorst Family Wines A Semillon Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020

There are just 200 bottles of his 2008 Noble Late Harvest Semillon. It has an appealing, very pure bouquet with touches of clear honey, white flowers and a hint of quince with very fine delineation. The palate is viscous on the entry, caressing lemon curd, marmalade and lemon zest flavours with a pure, opulent finish that you cannot help but fall in love with. Drink now-2020+







2007 A A Badenhorst Family Wines RedA A Badenhorst Family Wines A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $42

A blend of 70% Shiraz (not 80% as stated on the label) with 10% Mourvedre, 7% Cinsault and 3% Grenache, the sublime 2007 Family Red Blend has a very natural, beautifully defined bouquet of dark berries, a dash of white pepper and garrigue that you would swear comes from some rocky outcrop in the Rhone. The palate has really coalesced since I tasted the 2007 in its youth: very fine tannins, wonderful balance and freshness with great tension. There are dark berries, tertiary notes, white pepper, fennel and a slight salty tang on the mid-palate that leads to a very focused finish. It will age over 8-10 years with ease. Drink now-2020.



2010 Anthonij Rupert Wines Cape Of Good Hope Serruria ChardonnayAnthonij Rupert Wines A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

The cerebral 2010 Cape of Good Hope Chardonnay is sourced from 700-metre vines up in the Stettyn Mountains. It has a light, primal, grapefruit and lemon scented bouquet that blossoms beautifully with teasing granite and crushed flower notes. The palate is fresh on the entry with a nice citrus twist at its core. There is superb tension and palpable minerality towards the finish that imparts a sense of Old World strictness. Drink now-2018.

This Franschhoek based winery is named after Anthonij Rupert, the son of South African billionaire Anton Rupert, who tragically died in 2001. Their flagship wines, the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, represent top-class internationally styled varietals that are hand-picked and lavished in 18 and 24-months in new French oak.

Importer: Terlato Wines International, NJ. 201-659-4712.




http://www.rupertwines.com/

2006 Anthonij Rupert Wines Cabernet Franc

Anthonij Rupert Wines A Cabernet Franc Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $80

The 2006 Cabernet Franc is cut from a similar cloth to the Cabernet Sauvignon with a polished, almost decadent nose that manages to retain the peppery aromatics of great Cabernet Franc with subtle hints of mocha and chestnut. The palate is full-bodied and very well balanced. It is certainly lavished in high quality new oak but without denuding elegance and definition, whilst the varietal character really comes through on the savoury finish. You could easily mistake this for a top Napa Cabernet Franc. Drink 2013-2020+.



2006 Anthonij Rupert Wines Cabernet SauvignonAnthonij Rupert Wines A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2025 $60

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is decadent and alcoholic on the nose, although decanting allows the super-ripe cassis, black cherry and blueberry fruit to blossom and mellow. The palate is full-bodied with ripe, assertive tannins and layers of ripe black fruits cloaked in glycerine, but this Cabernet maintains impressive delineation. Unashamedly ostentatious and showy. This wine needs to be decanted for a couple of hours or leave it another five years to see what the secondary phase of evolution with bring. This is a class act. Drink 2016-2025.







2008 Anwilka Anwilka A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $50

A blend 48% Syrah, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot and aged in oak for 15 months, the 2008 Anwilka has a glossy, well-defined bouquet that is rather taciturn at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a lactic entry: touches of dark chocolate and mocha at first, interwoven with blackberry and boysenberry fruit. The texture is a little “furry” but it is endowed with a satisfying, silky finish. Cellar this for 2-3 years and wait for those secondary flavours. Drink 2013-2020.

Anwilka is the joint venture between Bruno Prats, Hubert de Bouard from Bordeaux, and Lowell Jooste representing the home team. The grapes in their Stellenbosch vineyard are selected from 12 of the 40 hectares planted and yields are kept around 35 hectoliter per hectare, before fermentation in 7,000-liter “tronical” stainless-steel tanks and matured for nine-months in French oak. A majority of Anwilka is exported and sold through the Bordeaux “Place.”

Importer: Fidelis and though Bordeaux negociants.

2007 Ashbourne Hemel en Aarde ValleyA Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromHemel-En-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay, South Africa



2017 $50

Much better is the 2007 Pinotage that is blended with 10% Bordeaux varietals and is graced with a lifted dark plum and damson-scented bouquet. The palate has fine tannins and fresh dark berry and damson tinged fruit with good acidity and freshness on the finish. This is a very fine Pinotage built with propensity to age. Drink 2012-2017.

Anthony Hamilton founded Ashbourne in 1996: a 113-hectare estate east of his own Hamilton Russell vineyard. Readers should note that the labels do not divulge the grape varieties that I have indicated above.

Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, Alabama. Tel 205-949-6262

2010 Ataraxia Sauvignon BlancAtaraxia A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine from



http://www.anwilka.com/

http://www.ataraxiawines.co.za/

South Africa



2016 $20

The impressive 2010 Sauvignon Blanc has a refined, more introspective bouquet that the 2005 that avoids those pungent cat’s pee aromas. The palate has very good definition on the entry with crisp acidity: lively aromas of green apple, kiwi fruit and citrus lemon, demonstrating great purity and subtle mineralite towards the finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2016.

Having put Hamilton Russell on the map, winemaker Kevin Grant departed to establish “Ataraxia” in the idyllic Hemel-en-Aarde valley. Since debuting in 2005 with out-sourced fruit, he has already fashioned some of South Africa’s finest Chardonnays, but he is already enthusiastic about his own fledgling 47-hectares of vine that should debut with the 2011 releases. In the meantime, Kevin showed me debut and recent vintages of portfolio, expounding his philosophy of terroir and mineralite rather than fruit.

Importer: Worthwhile Wine Company, Atlanta, GA; tel. (678) 358-5241

2009 Ataraxia ChardonnayAtaraxia A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $40

Better is the outstanding 2009 Chardonnay that is sourced from Hemel-en-Aarde and Elgin and aged for 10 months in 225-liter French oak with 34% new (the rest 2nd fill). The nose is beautifully defined with scents of melon, honeysuckle and white peach with just a hint of creme patissiere. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry with subtle almond and hazelnut. It has wonderfully integrated vanilla-tinged oak and a tense, mineral-rich finish that is Corton-Charlemagne in all but name and price. This is one of South Africa’s benchmark Chardonnays. Drink now-2018+

Having put Hamilton Russell on the map, winemaker Kevin Grant departed to establish “Ataraxia” in the idyllic Hemel-en-Aarde valley. Since debuting in 2005 with out-sourced fruit, he has already fashioned some of South Africa’s finest Chardonnays, but he is already enthusiastic about his own fledgling 47-hectares of vine that should debut with the 2011 releases. In the meantime, Kevin showed me debut and recent vintages of portfolio, expounding his philosophy of terroir and mineralite rather than fruit.




http://www.ataraxiawines.co.za/

2009 Avondale Wine Estate Anima Chenin BlancAvondale Wine Estate A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $29

Much better is the 2009 Anima Chenin Blanc. Sourced from 8- to 30-year old vines, whole-bunch pressed and raised in 1st, 2nd and 3rd fill 500-liter French oak barrels, it has a lovely, understated bouquet with lime flower, nectarine and a touch of walnut that is very well defined and blossoms in the glass. The palate is taut and refined with crisp acidity, fresh citrus fruit, apricot, gooseberry and a hint of mango that leads to a nicely focused finish. Drink now-2016.

Avondale is a Paarl-based producer with the emphasis upon organically grown grapes sourced from their own estate, using natural yeasts in their gravity-flow winery and sulphur additions that are half the norm. I like the ethos here and the sense of dynamism, however, some of their portfolio did not quite live up to my expectations.

Importer: Metropolis Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (212) 581-2051

2009 Avondale Wine Estate CyclusAvondale Wine Estate A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $35

The 2009 Cyclus is a blend of 60% Viognier with the remainder consisting of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Semillon. Sixty percent of the crop was fermented in 500-liter French oak barrels. It harnesses the aromatic spice of Viognier on the nose: nectarine, dried apricots, wax resin and a hint of lemon curd. The palate is well balanced with a pleasing fatness on the entry. There is a honeyed quality to this Chenin, a little richer and more generous than the Anima, but a vibrant finish of honey, grilled almond, lemongrass and a twist of lemon. This is a stylish, multi-faceted Chenin Blanc. Drink now-2016+.





http://www.avondalewine.co.za/


2006 Avondale Wine Estate Samsara SyrahAvondale Wine Estate A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $40

The 2006 Samsara Syrah is a little “funky” at first, but calms down with aeration to reveal a mellow, blackberry and cassis-scented bouquet that is just a little warm and alcoholic. The palate is full-bodied and luscious, with succulent dark berries, cherry liqueur and a touch of Provencal herbs. The finish is rounded and seductive. Drink now-2017.



1985 Backsberg Estate ChardonnayBacksberg Estate A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa


eRobertParker.comAug 2011 Neal Martin 90 Drink -

This Backsberg Chardonnay has a wonderful, vibrant nose with beeswax, honeycomb and a touch of marmalade. It is not a million miles away from a vin jaune and it displays commendable vibrancy. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine balance and good acidity. It is harmonious with touches of beeswax, marzipan and almond, although it is its viscosity that really offers pleasure. With great length and weight, this is an unabashed mature Chardonnay. Tasted May 2011.




http://www.backsberg.co.za/

2010 Beau Constantia Cecily ViognierBeau Constantia A Viognier Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 2010 Cecily Viognier has an understated nose: pure, well defined with tangible mineralite that unfurls enticingly in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a pleasing fatness in the mouth with lovely apricot, nectarine and white peach flavours. It is blessed with a well-defined finish that embraces that one barrel of new oak with style. This Viognier is well worth seeking out.

This is a brand new venture in Constantia, the 2010 marking their debut vintage. Their vineyard is located at 350m on the Constantia Mountain Range. Winemaker Justin van Wyk produces is just 900 bottles from seven-year old vines, however their debut is very promising.

No US importer, but it will probably be available in the US through www.cybercellar.co.za

2008 Beyerskloof Cape Blend FaithBeyerskloof A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2019

A 250 case cellar selection of the best Cabernet, Merlot and Shiraz matured for 23 months in new French oak, the 2008 Cape Blend Faith is based on 35% Pinotage, 50% Cabernet and 15% Shiraz. It has an intriguing nose: blackberry, melted tar, licorice and iodine with impressive definition and lift. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grippy tannins, good acidity and very good balance, demonstrating fine purity and elegance on its Pinot-textured, silky finish. This graceful Pinotage blend should age over 8-10 years. Drink now-2019.

Beyerskloof is one of South Africa’s most familiar names, founded in 1988 when Beyers Truter, winemaker at Kanonkop, discovered an ideally located farm in Koelenhof, Stellenbosch.

Importers: Cape Wine Match, NY, Tel 917-855-7726



http://www.beauconstantia.com/

http://www.beyerskloof.co.za/

2008 Beyerskloof Diesel PinotageBeyerskloof A Pinotage Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $80

Named after the 95kg dog, the 2008 Diesel Pinotage is a ten-barrel selection from the Reserve, matured for 21 months in French oak. It has blackberry and licorice with a touch of green bell pepper in the background, whilst the palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins. It exhibits a touch of spice and wild mushroom towards the refined finish that has silky Burgundian texture. Lovely! Drink now-2017.


Importers: Cape Wine Match, NY, Tel 917-855-7726.

2008 Beyerskloof Reserve PinotageBeyerskloof A Pinotage Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2014

Matured in 60% new French oak for 20 months, the 2008 Reserve Pinotage is a double selection in the vineyard and the winery. The nose is well defined and fresh with blackberry, raspberry leaf and a touch of bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins on the entry. There are ample red-berried fruits with good acidity, and overall it is very harmonious and lithe towards the succulent finish. Drink now-2014.


Importers: Cape Wine Match, NY, Tel 917-855





2008 Black Pearl Vineyards OroBlack Pearl Vineyards A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromPaarl, Western Cape, South Africa



2018 $17

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Shiraz, the 2008 Oro has a fresh, vibrant nose not dissimilar to a McClaren Vale with ebullient, mint-scented glossy black fruits. The palate is full-bodied and very rich with an almost honeyed texture. Moderately tannic, very forward and opulent with a ravishing, polished finish, this is a very modern, svelte Cabernet/Shiraz that is well crafted by winemaker Mary-Lou Nash. Sure, it is a tad on the alcoholic side, but it is deftly crafted, keenly priced and should age well. Drink 2012-2018.

Black Pearl is a boutique winery based in Paarl. Their first vintage was in 2001, sourced from 4.5-hectares of Shiraz and 3-hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon that are all dry farmed.

Importer: Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (866) 57-STARZ, Fax: (714) 892-6930.

2009 Boekenhoutskloof Chocolate Block FranschhoekBoekenhoutskloof A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromFranschhoek, Western Cape, South Africa



2015 $35

A blend of 67% Syrah, 14% Grenache, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cinsault and 2% Viognier, the 2009 The Chocolate Block has a rustic, earthy bouquet with a touch of saddle-leather and Provencal herbs. The palate is smooth and rounded on the entry and is armed with crisp acidity to cut through that plush dark berried fruit interlaced with rosemary, white fennel and white pepper. Very svelte and harmonious towards the slightly oaky finish and demonstrating good length, The Chocolate Block is a well-crafted Rhone(ish) blend from Mark Kent and his team. Drink now-2015.

Franschhoek’s Boekenhoutskloof is rightly regarded as one of South Africa’s leading wineries, the only producer I awarded 5-stars in the 7th Wine Buyers Guide (though I would now add more.) The ever-enterprising Mark Kent has recently acquired a vineyard in Swartland that he intends to use for his Syrah. In the winery, he is currently experimenting with fermentation in Nomblot concrete eggs. See also his “Porcupine Ridge” and “Wolftrap” labels.

Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, Alabama. Tel 205-949-6262.



http://www.blackpearlwines.com/

http://www.boekenhoutskloof.co.za/

2008 Boekenhoutskloof SyrahBoekenhoutskloof A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromFranschhoek, Western Cape, South Africa



2018 $47

Harvested over one week and matured in second fill barrels for a total of 27 months, the 2008 Syrah has a well defined bouquet with more red fruits than black, touches of white pepper interlacing fresh prune (though not in an over-ripe sense), Provencal herbs, allspice and a touch of white fennel. The palate is very harmonious on the entry, soft and quite plush at first, belying the tannic backbone underneath. It is very elegant towards the finish allowing rustic peppery notes to render this one of South Africa’s most expressive Syrahs. Drink 2012-2018+.



2008 Boekenhoutskloof SemillonBoekenhoutskloof A Semillon Dry White Table wine fromFranschhoek, Western Cape, South Africa



2015 $28

The 2008 Semillon is sourced from old bush vines matured 100% in French oak. It has a very clean, pure quintessentially Semillon nose with touches of honeysuckle, melted candle wax and pink grapefruit. The palate is well balanced with good acidity and a slight waxy texture. There is ample freshness and vigour and impressive weight on the viscous finish with dried honey, honeycomb and a touch of dried ginger. Drink now-2015.







2007 Boekenhoutskloof The JourneymanBoekenhoutskloof A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020

Having replanted 80% of the Cabernet Franc, the 2007 The Journeyman is a blend of two barrels plus one barrel of Cabernet Sauvignon matured for 30 months entirely in new French oak. It has a peppery, earthy bouquet with touches of sandalwood and cedar. The palate is quite refined and understated on the entry, has good acidity and freshness with subtle peppery notes to the extent that I wish that the Cabernet Franc was more expressive. Very elegant and refined on the finish, this is a fine South African Bordeaux blend that just needs to find more personality. Drink 2012-2020.


2006 Boekenhoutskloof SyrahBoekenhoutskloof A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromFranschhoek, Western Cape, South Africa



2016 $50

Picked in four tries through the vineyard and aged for 27 months in used French barriques, the 2006 Syrah has a well defined bouquet with blackberry, mulberry, white pepper, roasted bell peppers and a touch of scorched earth. The palate is very well balanced with a beautifully defined entry: earthy, brambly black fruits, a touch of tar, sandalwood, white pepper and Provencal herbs that lead to an elegant, composed finish. This gorgeous Syrah is maturing beautifully. Drink now-2016+







2006 Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet SauvignonBoekenhoutskloof A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromWestern Cape, South Africa



2020 $50

With 14.29% alcohol, the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon has an oak-laden, plum and tobacco-scented bouquet that needs just a little more freshness. The palate is full-bodied with very supple tannins and a caressing mouth feel, good acidity and a clean, rounded, velvety finish that is impossible to dislike. Yet there is also a sense of conservatism coming through with age...a bit of dormant Old World coming to life on the finish. Drink now-2020.



2010 Bosman Family Vineyards Adama White BlendBosman Family Vineyards A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa


eRobertParker.comAug 2011 Neal Martin 90 Drink - $20

From Western Cape and Wellington, the 2010 Adama White Blend is comprised of 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Gris, 6% Viognier and 4% Semillon. It has an attractive, well-defined bouquet with light beeswax and citrus aromas that would benefit from a touch more vigour. However the palate has an attractive honeyed component on the entry, good acidity with a clean, waxy finish that offers a lot of pleasure, especially at the price.

Importer: MJM Imports, NY. Tel 516-933-7477.




http://www.bosmanwines.com/

2009 Botanica Wines Chenin BlancBotanica Wines A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 2009 Chenin Blanc is the maiden vintage and a mighty find job they have made of it too. Sourced from dry-farmed, 50-year old vines that yield just 2.5 tons/hectare located in the Devon Valley near Stellenbosch, the nose is very primal with scents of grapefruit and a touch of passionfruit. The nose cries out for another year to develop more complexity, The palate is very appealing. Subtle tropical notes have hints of orange peel, peach and passion fruit. This is well balanced with a plush but not over-powering finish. This is a name to look out for in the future.

No US importer.

2010 Bouchard Finlayson Chardonnay Sans BarriqueBouchard Finlayson A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $19

Sourced from dry-farmed 20-year old vines near Villiersdorp, the 2010 Chardonnay Sans Barrique has a light but well defined nose of fresh apricot, melon and grapefruit. It is effervescent in the mouth and has an attractive waxy texture towards the complex citrus and white peach finish. This is a very impressive Elgin Chardonnay that should age well. Drink now-2017.

The winery was formed by Peter Finlayson, who worked at Hamilton Russell for ten years, and Paul Bouchard from Burgundy, who together planted the first vines in 1991 at a density of 9,000 per hectare – comparatively high for South Africa. In 2000 it was purchased by the Talman family and having worked in Franschhoek, winemaker Chris Albrecht joined Bouchard Finlayson in December 2010.

Importer: Terry Seitz Inc., Boca Grande, FL; tel. (941) 473-8769; fax (941) 473-8952



http://www.botanicawines.com/

http://www.bouchardfinlayson.co.za/

2009 Bouchard Finlayson Limited Edition Kaaimansgat ChardonnayBouchard Finlayson A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $30

The 2009 Limited Edition Kaaimansgat Chardonnay is a blend of the wooded and un-wooded Chardonnays (60% the former). Unsurprisingly it has a lightly wooded nose with well-defined aromas of citrus lemon, lime flower, lychee and smoke. The palate is crisp and clean on the entry with light tropical tones, hints of apricot and orange-blossom with a very pretty, floral finish. Drink now-2016.


Importer: Terry Seitz Inc., Boca Grande, FL; tel. (941) 473-8769; fax (941) 473-8952.

2009 Bouchard Finlayson Tete de Cuvee Galpin Peak Pinot NoirBouchard Finlayson A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2014

The 2009 Tete de Cuvee Galpin Peak Pinot Noir is a winery selection of the best barrels and is aged almost entirely in new oak. It has a nose that is over-ripe with damson and fresh prune aromas. The palate is better with a sweet core of cassis, cherry liqueur and yellow plum with good acidity and a silky smooth finish. Hopefully, the sur-maturite on the nose will dissipate with bottle age since the palate is promising. Drink now-2014.







2008 Bouchard Finlayson Kaaimansgat ChardonnayBouchard Finlayson A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

Matured in 25% new oak over 8 months, the 2009 “Kaaimansgat” Chardonnay has a generous bouquet that is obviously more rounded and vanillary on the nose, but is missing some clarity. The palate is very well balanced with vanilla, almond, coconut and a touch of walnut that leads to an almost Napa-style finish that is long and caressing. Drink now-2016.



2003 Bouchard Finlayson Kaaimansgat ChardonnayBouchard Finlayson A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2011

The 2003 “Kaaimansgat” Chardonnay has a waxy, lanolin-tinged bouquet with good freshness and definition, touches of dried honey emerging with aeration. The palate has touches of vanilla and lemon curd on the entry, good acidity and a well-defined, Burgundian finish that lingers beautifully. Drink now.







2010 Buitenverwachting Husseys Vlei Sauvignon BlancBuitenverwachting A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa


eRobertParker.comAug 2011 Neal Martin 91+ Drink 2012 -

2018 $15

The 2010 Husseys Vlei Sauvignon Blanc has a very subtle bouquet with crushed stone, a touch of dried herbs, green asparagus and green bell pepper. The palate is well balanced with subtle herbaceous aromas, good acidity and crisp gooseberry and lime mixed with a touch of passion fruit on the finish. It is a distinctive expression of Sauvignon, not to everyone’s liking but true to itself. I am intrigued to see how this will develop in bottle. Drink 2012-2018.

Originally part of the historic Constantia estate, Buitenverwachting produces a wide portfolio of wines, but presently only their Sauvignon Blanc is currently imported into the USA.

Importer: Cape Classics, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-1300

2007 Buitenverwachting Husseys Vlei Sauvignon BlancBuitenverwachting A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $15

The 2007 Husseys Vlei Sauvignon Blanc is a single vineyard, 2,400-liter bottle production with gooseberry, green asparagus and a touch of Vervaine tea on the nose. The palate is well balanced with a strong asparagus element on the palate. Very distinct and well balanced, it segues towards a spicy, tertiary finish that lingers in the mouth. Not for everyone, but then why should all Sauvignons be the same? Drink now-2017.

Originally part of the historic Constantia estate, Buitenverwachting produces a wide portfolio of wines, but presently only their Sauvignon Blanc is currently imported into the USA.




http://buitenverwachting.co.za/

http://buitenverwachting.co.za/

2009 Cape Chamonix Pinot Noir ReserveCape Chamonix A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $30

Sourced from four high-altitude blocks, the 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir is whole bunch fermented and raised for 15-16 months in Allier oak with 60% new. It has an intense bouquet with red cherries, wild strawberry and a dash of black pepper that lends it an almost Barolo-like allure. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight chewiness to the tannins and notes of crisp red-berried fruit, red currant and red cherries that segue nicely towards a crisp, intense, edgy finish. This is a finely made South African Pinot. Drink now-2015.

Established in 1991, Cape Chamonix is one of Franschhoek’s most respected producers and in Gottfried Mocke, they have one of South Africa’s most thoughtful winemakers who fashions Burgundy-inspired Chardonnay and Pinot Noir without the price tag. Their strong portfolio comes highly recommended.

Importer: Knauth & Vissor, Branford, CT. Tel 203-488-6665.

2009 Cape Chamonix TroikaCape Chamonix A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $24

Finally, the 2009 Troika is a blend of 54% Cabernet Franc, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot that were matured for 19 months in oak (around 70% new.) It displays ripe plum, boysenberry and iodine on the bouquet with impressive definition, though the oak will need several months to fully integrate. The palate has an herbaceous, peppery entry with grippy tannins, good depth of flavour with a reserved tannic, tarry finish that should age well. Showing good length and intensity, this is a very fine Bordeaux blend. Drink 2012-2017.





http://www.chamonix.co.za/


2009 Cape Chamonix ChardonnayCape Chamonix A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $18

Sourced from two or three vineyard sites totalling 4.5-hectares and raised on its lees in barrel for around 11 months, the 2009 Chardonnay has a very Burgundian bouquet that is reminiscent of a fine Chassagne-Montrachet. The palate is well balanced with a very natural, refined entry and demonstrates very good acidity. Fresh with intense, rather than powerful, flavours, slightly chalky on the finish with good length, this supremely well-crafted Chardonnay represents outstanding value. Drink now-2018.



2009 Cape Chamonix Chardonnay ReserveCape Chamonix A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $30

The 2009 Chardonnay Reserve is sourced from a single vineyard of 27-years old vines cropped at around 4 tons per hectare (partly due to leaf roll.) It is barrel fermented and raised for 14 months barrel with 10% raised in concrete Nomblot eggs. It has a well-defined Burgundy-like bouquet with fine mineralite and succinctness. The palate is beautifully poised with well-integrated new oak and an attractive leesy finish with hints of bitter lemon and lime cordial. This is an outstanding example of South African Chardonnay. Drink now-2020.







2009 Cape Chamonix Sauvignon Blanc ReserveCape Chamonix A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $20

Barrel fermented from 22 years old vines blended with 12% Semillon and raised in 30% new oak, the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve has a light, grassy, apply nose with a touch of fresh asparagus. The palate is well balanced on the entry with a slight creaminess, good acidity with an attractive leesy finish. Understated and very poised, this is a succinct expression of Franschhoek Sauvignon. Drink now-2015.


Importer: Knauth & Vissor, Branford, CT. Tel 203-488-

2010 Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh Sauvignon BlancCape Point Vineyards A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $50

Even more impressive is the fabulous 2010 Isliedh Sauvignon Blanc. Named after the property owner’s grand-daughter (pronounced “i-la” like the whisky!) the vineyard is located 200-metres just up from the beach on Cape Point, barrel fermented for 10 months in barrel with 50% new oak and 25% Semillon. It has a more introverted nose at first with lanolin, honeysuckle and a touch of white peach that takes time to open, but is worth the wait. The palate is very well balanced with good acidity, a gorgeous waxy texture and the Semillon taking control on the white peach, pineapple and passion fruit tinged finish with superb delineation. If you are going to pay fifty dollars for a Sauvignon Blanc, then make it this one. Drink now-2016.

Winemaker Duncan Savage exploits the cool maritime climate of Constantia to fashion expressive Sauvignon’s that eschew those rasping, cat’s pee aromas and excessively herbaceous flavours.

Importer: Boutique Wine Collection. PO Box 7436, Philadelphia. PA 1901. Tel 1-914-954-6583.




http://www.noordhoekvineyards.co.za/

2010 Cape Point Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc ReserveCape Point Vineyards A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015

The stupendous 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve is blended with 9% Semillon and spent 14 months in 600-liter barrels. The nose is well defined with green apple, grapefruit and a touch of beeswax. The palate is well balanced with lovely tropical fruits in the background, good acidity with hints of passion fruit and dried apricot, leading to a well-defined finish. This is a great South African “Savvy.” Drink now-2015.

Winemaker Duncan Savage exploits the cool maritime climate of Constantia to fashion expressive Sauvignon’s that eschew those rasping, cat’s pee aromas and excessively herbaceous flavours.


2010 Cederberg Private Cellar David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner Sauvignon BlancCederberg A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $22

The 2010 David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner Sauvignon Blanc underwent 5 months aging on the lees. It has a very subtle, quite mineral-driven nose with good definition. The palate is crisp, vibrant with superb fruit concentration and acidity, plus a wonderful citrus-driven finish that cleanses the palate. This is a top-class Sauvignon Blanc from Elim. Drink now-2016.

Owned by Ernst and David Nieuwoudt, the first vines in one of the Capeland’s highest altitude vineyards were planted in 1973. There are presently 53-hectares under vine and though theirs is a large portfolio, I focused upon the three very commendable wines presently imported into the USA.


2009 Cederberg Private Cellar David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner SemillonCederberg A Semillon Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



http://www.noordhoekvineyards.co.za/

http://www.cederbergwine.com/




2017 $23

The 2009 David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner Semillon was fermented 30% in 300-liter French oak with 5-months lees aging. It has a love it/hate it uncompromising, oxidative bouquet of smoke, walnut and damp straw. Personally, I love it! The palate has a strong nutty accent from start to finish with good acidity and depth, a wine that I would suggest laying down next to your Hunter Valley Semillon’s. This is very well crafted and distinctive and, whilst not a Semillon for everyone, it is individual and intellectual. Drink now-2017+



2008 Cederberg Private Cellar ShirazCederberg A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 2008 Cederberg Shiraz has good fruit intensity on the nose with blackberry, raspberry and a touch of white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a lot of freshness. Notes of raspberry, mulberry and vanilla abound, leading to a vibrant, fleshy finish that is very satisfying.






1982 Chateau Libertas Proprietary RedChateau Libertas A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



This wine would have been around 60% Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch, blended with Cinsault and Syrah. It has an attractive, fully mature bouquet with secondary aromas: Italian meats, a touch of Provencal herbs and melted tar. The palate is medium-bodied and fully mature but still fresh and harmonious with meaty, slightly ferrous, degraded red berry fruits. There are notes of allspice and cloves towards the elegant, Pomerol-like finish. Tasted May 2011.

NV Colmant Brut ChardonnayColmant A Chardonnay Dry White Sparkling wine fromSouth Africa



Disgorged March 2011, the superb Non-Vintage Brut Chardonnay is based on the 2007 vintage, whole bunch pressed with 18% fermented in oak and 45 months on the lees. It has a very subtle, more “wine-like” bouquet with very fine delineation, dewy green apples, a touch of wet limestone and a touch of flint. The palate has good weight on the entry with fresh green apple once again mingling with a little peach and Clementine in the background leading to a racy finish.

There are many alternatives to Champagne, and South Africa is no exception with some fine “Method Cap Classique.” Jean-Philippe Colmant hired winemaker Nicolas Follet to create a small range of impressive sparkling wines; they eschew malolactic fermentation and practice extended lees aging.

No US importer.



http://www.chateaulibertas.co.za/

http://www.colmant.co.za/

NV Colmant Brut ReserveColmant A Proprietary Blend Dry White Sparkling wine fromSouth Africa



Disgorged February 2011, the Non-vintage Brut Reserve is a blend of 52% Pinot Noir and 48% Chardonnay based on the 2008 vintages blended with reserve wines from 2007 and 2006 (25% of the blend), aged for 30 months on the lees. It has a very fine pettillance in the glass. The nose is very well defined with crushed stone, oyster shell and the subtle perfume of fine lees coming through with aeration. The palate is very crisp and lively on the entry with vibrant acidity, a citrus thread from start to finish, and though it is not a powerful Cap Classique, it is wonderfully poised with great persistence on the fresh lime and Granny Smith-tinged finish.

There are many alternatives to Champagne, and South Africa is no exception with some fine “Method Cap Classique.” Jean-Philippe Colmant hired winemaker Nicolas Follet to create a small range of impressive sparkling wines; they eschew malolactic fermentation and practice extended lees aging.

2009 Creation SyrahCreation A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 2009 Syrah has a slightly subdued nose that demands coaxing from the glass, but there is good definition once those aromatics kick into life with dark blackberry and a touch of camphor. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, good acidity and a lush texture. Very clean fruit with a lovely, ripe silky finish of black cherries, black olive and a twist of sour lemon lend it an edge. This is a very succinct, high quality Shiraz from Hemel-en-Aarde.

Established in 2002 in Hemel-en-Aarde, winemakers JC Martin and Christophe Kaser create outstanding Syrahs from their 22-hectares vineyard that lies at 350-metres above sea-level. Their state-of-the-art winery was completed in 2007 and the wines are raised in French barriques. Both the following come highly recommended.

Importer: Creation’s wines are due to be imported by Cape Floral Imports (www.capefloralimporters.com) in the next two months.



http://www.colmant.co.za/

http://www.creationwines.com/

2009 Creation Syrah / GrenacheCreation A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $18

The 2009 Shiraz/Grenache (80% and 20% respectively) has a very refined, vivacious bouquet with lifted red cherries and wild strawberries with a hint of sous-bois. The palate is very well defined with luscious red cherries, sweet wild strawberries and a very fine, almost Pinot Noir-like tannic structure. It is beautifully controlled with superb freshness on the silky finish. In a word: delicious! Drink now-2017.

Established in 2002 in Hemel-en-Aarde, winemakers JC Martin and Christophe Kaser create outstanding Syrahs from their 22-hectares vineyard that lies at 350-metres above sea-level. Their state-of-the-art winery was completed in 2007 and the wines are raised in French barriques. Both the following come highly recommended.

Importer: Creation’s wines are due to be imported by Cape Floral Imports (www.capefloralimporters.com) in the next two months.

2009 Crystallum Cuvee Cinema Pinot NoirCrystallum A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 2009 Cuvee Cinema Pinot Noir has a precise, understated Burgundy-like nose with red cherries and a touch of crushed strawberry. The palate is imbued with silky smooth tannins with good definition and poise, leading to a wonderful finish with just a hint of oyster shell. It is a beautiful Pinot Noir that South Africa should make more of.

Peter-Allan Finlayson is a young winemaker-cum-surfer dude who is fashioning a few barrels of delectable Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Hemel-en-Aarde. The wines showed dramatic improvement in quality between debut and sophomore vintages, an upward trajectory that should continue as Peter hones his craft. There is a lot of talk about this boutique producer and I suspect it is only a matter of time before someone has the idea to bring them into the US.

No US importer.



http://www.creationwines.com/

http://www.crystallumwines.com/

2009 Crystallum Peter Max Pinot NoirCrystallum A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015

The 2009 Peter Max Pinot Noir shows a marked improvement with a light herbaceous red cherry and red currant fruit on the nose. The palate is soft and seductive on the entry with good acidity and much better fruit concentration than the 2008. Plush and generous on the finish it is understated, refined and beautifully poised. Drink now-2015.


No US importer.

2009 Crystallum Clay Shales ChardonnayCrystallum A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015

Far better is the 2009 Clay Shales Chardonnay that was raised in barrel for 14 months. Despite struggling through malo, it has better definition on the nose than the 2008 with light hazelnut and almond aromas. The palate is well balanced with touches of vanilla and spice on the entry, and there’s good depth with a well-defined, edgy finish that lingers beautifully in the mouth. Drink now-2015.


No US importer.





NV De Krans Cape Tawny PortDe Krans A Sweet Red Fortified wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $18

The Non-Vintage Cape Tawny Port is mainly Tinta Barocca and has a pleasant, oxidative nose of roasted walnuts and dried orange peel. The palate is smooth on the entry with fine tannins and lovely sweet, orange peel, smoke and walnut notes towards the harmonious finish. This is a superb South African tawny. Drink now-2020+

South Africa produces some world-class fortified wines that fly under the radar and are often under-rated. De Krans is well-known for its Ports, although they are developing a non-fortified range much like their “cousins” in the Douro Valley. I sampled three of their range that are presently imported into the US.

Importer: Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; Tel. (866) 57-STARZ, Fax: (714) 892-6930

2008 De Krans Cape Vintage ReserveDe Krans A Sweet Red Fortified wine fromSouth Africa



2025 $50

The 2008 Cape Vintage Reserve has a deep, broody bouquet with figs, marmalade, melted tar and a touch of chocolate all with good definition. The palate is well balanced with a firm structure and notes of chewy dark berried fruit interlaced with dried orange peel, cloves and baked cherries. Sweet and succulent on the finish, this deserves several years in bottle. Drink 2015-2025 .

South Africa produces some world-class fortified wines that fly under the radar and are often under-rated. De Krans is well-known for its Ports, although they are developing a non-fortified range much like their “cousins” in the Douro Valley. I sampled three of their range that are presently imported into the US.

Importer: Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; Tel. (866) 57-STARZ, Fax: (714) 892

2010 De Morgenzon Reserve Chenin BlancDe Morgenzon A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa




http://www.southernstarz.com/vineyard.cfm?preview=59

http://www.southernstarz.com/vineyard.cfm?preview=59

http://www.demorgenzon.com/

eRobertParker.comAug 2011 Neal Martin (92-94) Drink 2012 -

2017 $30

Due to be bottled the next week, the 2010 Reserve Chenin Blanc has a very pure bouquet that likes to unfurl in the glass: peach, dried apricot and a touch of jasmine breaking through all with fine definition. The palate is well balanced with good acidity. It has a lovely slightly viscous texture with a complex finish of apricot, citrus peel, lime and just a touch of spice. Very harmonious and beautifully poised: this is what a sublime Chenin Blanc this will be! Drink 2012-2017+.

Classical music drifts over the vineyard to entertain the vines at De Morgenzon and encourage them to bear quality fruit. Perhaps that is no surprise since proprietors Wendy and Hylton Appelbaum own Classic FM radio. In 2010, Carl van der Merwe joined as head winemaker from Quoin Rock, though previous winemaker Teddy Hall remains in an advisory role. They offer an entry-level range from younger vines under the -DMZ- label, but De Morgenzon is best known for their outstanding Chenin Blanc sourced from their 40-year old vines. Carl uses an oxidative technique, fermenting the wine in barrel and not topping it up for six months, giving angels 3% share. The wine is raised in around one-third new oak and usually has 4-5 gms/L residual sugar. Carl took me through a vertical of their Chenin Blanc, but we began with the DMZ range.


2009 De Morgenzon Reserve Chenin BlancDe Morgenzon A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $30

The 2009 Reserve Chenin Blanc (the renamed Chenin Blanc) has a light golden hue. The nose is muted at first but opens up to offer honeysuckle and candied orange peel aromas. The palate is very pure and well balanced with good acidity, apricot, Clementine and a touch of lime zest that leads to a very poised finish. This is a consummate Chenin Blanc, although I suspect that the 2010 will be even better. Drink now-2017.





2008 De Morgenzon Chenin BlancDe Morgenzon A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $30

The 2008 Chenin Blanc has impressive aromatic intensity with beeswax, jasmine and honeysuckle aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and showing a little more tautness and tension than the 2009 with a ripe, waxy-textured finish that lingers beautifully. It is more forward compared to the other vintages, but it is drinking well now. Drink now-2015.






2018 $30

The outstanding 2007 Chenin Blanc has a slightly lighter bouquet than the 2008, with grapefruit, orange-blossom and jasmine aromas, with very fine definition, if not quite the intensity of the ensuing vintage. The palate is very fresh and very pretty: a floral, honeysuckle-entry infused with heady orange essence, apricot and white peach flavours. There is a wonderful sense of symmetry towards the finish, making this a superb Chenin Blanc. Drink now-2018+










2016 $30

The debut 2005 Chenin Blanc has an intense nose with secondary aromas beginning to drive the aromatics with scents of wet wool, pink grapefruit, shaved almond and a little dried honey. The palate is medium-bodied with fine delineation on the very harmonious entry with touches of lemon curd, orange peel, apricot and spice whilst the finish is long and persistent. This is an outstanding maiden vintage that seems to be aging beautifully. Drink now-2016+



2010 De Toren Book Xvii



De Toren A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2022 $175

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, only 600 bottles of the 2010 Book XVII will be produced from a micro-vinification in 200-liter batches. It has a super-ripe creme de cassis, fruitcake and fig scented bouquet with a palate that is ostentatious to the point of vulgarity. However, this full-bodied turbo-charged wine is so damn silky smooth and seductive in a super-Tuscan kind of way, that its charms will be nigh impossible to resist. Drink 2015-2022.

De Toren is owned by Emil and Sonette Den Dulk, whose 21.9-hectare vineyard overlooks False Bay in the Polkadraai Hills. They are best known for their Fusion V, five representing the classic Bordeaux grape varieties. Winemaker Albie Koch applies a meticulous approach to winemaking, for example, using gravity instead of pumps in the winery. Judging by their website, the inspiration is Bordeaux, though stylistically these wines are New World to their core. I found these to be big, powerful, quite alcoholic wines that are more reminiscent of some cult Napa Valley wines and they would certainly appeal to those who appreciate that style.


2009 De Toren Director's Reserve Fusion VDe Toren A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2022 $55

A blend of Bordeaux varieties, the 2009 Director’s Reserve Fusion V has a very ripe nose of small black cherries, fruitcake and creme de cassis with good definition. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, very ripe black fruit with notes of dark plum and fig. This leads to a dense, compact finish of succulent small dark berries. Give this bounder several years to open up. Drink 2015-2022.

De Toren is owned by Emil and Sonette Den Dulk, whose 21.9-hectare vineyard overlooks False Bay in the Polkadraai Hills. They are best known for their Fusion V, five representing the classic Bordeaux grape varieties. Winemaker Albie Koch applies a meticulous approach to winemaking, for example, using gravity instead of pumps in the winery. Judging by their website, the inspiration is Bordeaux, though stylistically these wines are New World to their core. I found these to be big, powerful, quite alcoholic wines that are more reminiscent of some cult Napa Valley wines and they would certainly appeal to those who appreciate that style.


2010 De Trafford Chenin Blanc



http://www.de-toren.com/

http://www.de-toren.com/

De Trafford A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $28

Raised in 20% French oak like the 2009, the 2010 Chenin Blanc is likewise taciturn on the nose, but much more expressive on the palate with intense notes of hazelnut, smoke and honeycomb and great precision on the finish. A bit of bottle age should awaken the aromatics. The palate is well balanced with crisp citrus fruit and a tang of marmalade, building nicely in the mouth to a well-defined finish with touches of ginger and orange rind. Drink 2012-2016.

Set on the Mont Fleur Farm in Stellenbosch, De Trafford is one of the region’s most familiar names. Founded in 1976 by the De Trafford family for the purpose of livestock grazing, they soon realized that the high altitude slopes would be ideal for wine and so the first vines were planted in 1983, with the first wine released eight years later. David Trafford is the present winemaker and he keeps the 3,500 case production a family affair. They have a consistent portfolio that can occasionally feel a little overdone in the winery. (See also their Sijnn range of wines.)


2008 De Trafford ShirazDe Trafford A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $80

The aromatics on the 2008 Shiraz do not quite have the focus of the 2007, but the palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with mouth-coating dark berries, white pepper and allspice flavours that refuse to let go. I would afford the 2008 another 12 months in bottle to show its mettle. Drink 2013-2018.





http://www.detrafford.co.za/


2008 De Trafford Blueprint ShirazDe Trafford A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $37

The 2008 Blueprint Shiraz displays better definition than the 2007 on the nose and though not as powerful, it expresses terroir with greater clarity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine powdery tannins and good fruit intensity: blackberry and wild strawberry. It is very focused towards the white pepper-dashed finish and the persistence is impressive. Drink now-2017.



2007 De Trafford ShirazDe Trafford A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $80

Raised in 50% French oak for 20 months with just two rackings, the impressive 2007 Shiraz has a generous peppery nose with touches of broom, white fennel and rosemary. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannins, very good depth with fine structure on the structured, Gigondas-like finish. I would bunker a few bottles down in the cellar. Drink 2013-2020.







2006 De Trafford Elevation 393De Trafford A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $98

A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 13% Shiraz, the 2006 Elevation 393 is raised in French oak for 22 months. It has a very ripe, slightly muffled bouquet with secondary aromas of wild mushroom, game, mint and a touch of cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, tensile tannins and lovely peppery black fruit. It shows a little more conviction than the 2005 and should age well for another 8-10 years. Drink now-2020.



2005 De Trafford Elevation 393De Trafford A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2014 $98

A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 14% Shiraz with malolactic in barrel, the 2005 Elevation 393 has a gamey, mushroom-tinged bouquet that needs more freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, almost foursquare tannins interlaced with spicy, vanillary red-berried fruit. Very refined and composed towards the finish, it is a pity that the aromatics are not evolving as well as the palate. Drink now-2014.



2009 De Wetshof Estate Bateleur Chardonnay





De Wetshof Estate A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $49

The 2009 Bateleur Chardonnay has tropical fruit: pineapple, guava and passion fruit on the lifted bouquet. The palate is well-balanced with a touch of walnut on the entry, fanning out nicely across the mouth with subtle, spice-tinged citrus fruits towards a crisp, smoke-tinged finish. Drink now-2016.

Based in Robertson, De Wetshof was founded by Danie de Wet who pioneered many of South Africa’s dry white wines in the 1970’s after taking over from his father in 1972.


2009 De Wetshof Estate The Site ChardonnayDe Wetshof Estate A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

The 2009 The Site Chardonnay has a very refined bouquet with touches of lemon curd and almond, the best defined of all De Wetshof’s Chardonnays. The palate is neutral on the entry but builds on the mouth, a wine defined more by its pleasing texture than flavour compared to The Site ‘10, but its demonstrates precision on the Chassagne-like finish. Drink now-2018.



2006 De Wetshof Estate Chardonnay d'Honneur



http://www.dewetshof.co.za/


De Wetshof Estate A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

The 2006 Chardonnay d’Honneur has a fresh, lifted vanilla and beeswax-scented bouquet with impressive definition. The palate is poised and tense on the entry underpinned by racy acidity and impressive focus with citrus lemon, dried apricot, honeycomb and hazelnut towards the finish that needs more persistence. But otherwise, this is an impressive Chardonnay. Drink now-2016.



2004 De Wetshof Estate Chardonnay d'HonneurDe Wetshof Estate A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2014

The barrel fermented 2004 Chardonnay d’Honneur has a very attractive bouquet with dried apricot, walnut and dried flowers whilst the palate has a very leesy entry, good acidity with great weight in the mouth. Much more Napa in style than Burgundy: long with touches of dried honey on the finish, this is an assured mature Chardonnay. Drink now-2014.







2009 Eagles' Nest ViognierEagles' Nest A Viognier Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017

None typify the quality-driven stance more than the outstanding 2009 Viognier. Sourced from easterly facing vineyards, home to 7-year old vines and raised in 2nd and 3rd year fill barrels, it has a tightly coiled nose with hints of pressed white flowers, nectarine and jasmine. The palate is very well balanced with good acidity. It stays true and almost amplifies its varietal character whilst maintaining great tension with subtle notes of nectarine, spice, orange peel and dried lemon peel. It blossoms in the mouth and has a wonderfully vibrant finish. This demonstrates adroit handling of a tricky varietal, so bravo! Drink now-2017+

Keep a look out for Eagles’ Nest, which is due to land on US shores very soon. Scioned from the Groot Constantia Estate, the 12-hectares vineyard is one of the most vertiginous in South Africa, rising from 150m to 400m in the blink of an eye. Winemaker Stuart Botha worked in Saint Emilion and in conversation came over as someone genuinely obsessive about quality. These were expressive, beautifully crafted wines.

Importer: Cyber Celler (website www.cybercellar.co.za being set up at time of writing.)

2008 Eagles' Nest ShirazEagles' Nest A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017

Finally, the 2008 Shiraz is completely de-stemmed and sorted, then raised for 16 months using equal percentages of 1st, 2nd and 3rd fill barrels. The nose is very Old World with fine delineation: delicate touches of white pepper and extremely pure fruit that is completely seductive. The palate is very elegant and well defined with fine tannins and a gorgeous ripe, delicately pepper finish. It just needs a little more grip on the finish, perhaps more dryness to eke out more character? Nevertheless it is a beautifully crafted Shiraz. Drink 2012-2017.





http://eaglesnestwinery.com/


2008 Eagles' Nest VerreauxEagles' Nest A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

The 2008 Verreaux is their Bordeaux blend based mainly on Merlot (93%) matured for 16 months in barrel. It has a ripe dark plum, cassis and damson-scented bouquet that is opulent and generous. The palate is well-defined with fine, juicy tannins and a flamboyant ripe but not over-bearing finish with fig, blackberry and damson. This must be one of South Africa’s finest Merlots: very well crafted and drinking beautifully now. Drink now-2016.



2009 Ernie Els The Big EasyErnie Els A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $20

A blend of 52% Shiraz, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Mourvedre, 9% Grenache and 3% Viognier, the 2009 “Big Easy” has a well defined, oak-laden nose with blackberry, blueberry and small dark cherries. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy entry, full-bodied with succulent dark berried fruits interlaced with chocolate and a dash of white pepper. The finish retains good delineation and harmony and makes this an impressive Rhone-inspired blend. Drink 2012-2018.

A familiar name to anyone swinging a golf club, Ernie Els has also made a name for himself on the wine scene with his eponymous Stellenbosch winery established in 1999. It was initially started as a joint-venture with Jean Engelbrecht of Rust en Vrede but is now Ernie’s single venture. From the beginning, the winemaking has been overseen by Louis Strydom and he fashions an international-style of classic French grape varieties that might not be subtle, but are obviously well crafted and will appeal to those who appreciate “big” wines with a bit of swing.





http://www.ernieels.com/

2008 Ernie Els Ernie Els A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $35

A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Shiraz and the rest Bordeaux varieties, the 2008 Proprietor’s Blend has a lifted nose of blackberry, cedar wood, raspberry coulis and tobacco. The palate is sweet and generous on the entry with good acidity, vibrant red-berried fruit with succulent cherry and wild strawberry towards the finish. Drink now-2018.



2006 Ernie Els SignatureErnie Els A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $95

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% each of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc and matured for 20 months in French oak, the 2006 Ernie Els Signature almost scores a hole in one. It has a very sensual, harmonious bouquet with dark red fruits, mocha, cedar and a touch of tobacco, whilst the palate is beautifully balanced with silky smooth tannins. The 14.7% alcohol is barely noticeable on the finish with touches of orange rind enlivening the long finish. Allow this at least a couple of hours decanting to show its true potential. Superb. Drink now-2017.



2010 Ernst Gouws & Co Chenin Blanc





Ernst Gouws & Co A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $11

The 2010 Chenin Blanc has a very well defined nose with scents of cooking apple, kiwi fruit and freshly cut grapefruit with fine delineation and focus. The palate is very citrus driven to the extent that it resembles a Sauvignon Blanc. It is very well balanced, enlivening the mouth with subtle spice and candied orange peel towards the finish. This is top-class Chenin Blanc. Drink now-2015.

Founded by Ernst and Gwenda Gouws in 2004, this Stellenbosch producer offers a commendable portfolio including some excellent whites. Unaware of the price at time of tasting, I was expecting them to come in around the $25 mark. So at almost half the price these represent great value.

Importer: Bronco Wine Company VI III, Napa 877.411.

2010 Ernst Gouws & Co Sauvignon BlancErnst Gouws & Co A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2011 $11

The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc is top notch, with vibrant grassy notes mingling with cut lime and a well-balanced palate that is underpinned by crisp lime and green apple, precise and poised on the finish. Watch out Marlborough! Drink now.

Founded by Ernst and Gwenda Gouws in 2004, this Stellenbosch producer offers a commendable portfolio including some excellent whites. Unaware of the price at time of tasting, I was expecting them to come in around the $25 mark. So at almost half the price these represent great value.

Importer: Bronco Wine Company VI III, Napa 877.411.



http://www.ernstgouws.co.za/

http://www.ernstgouws.co.za/

2009 Fairview Eenzaamheid ShirazFairview A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $37

A vineyard selection fermented in 600-liter open barrels aged for 22 months in French oak of which 40% is new, the impressive 2009 Eenzaamheid Shiraz (Afrikaan for “solitude”) has a juicy, ebullient bouquet of red currant, raspberry, violet and a dash of white pepper. The palate is full-bodied and though not a complex Shiraz, it is well balanced and pure with crisp, vibrant peppery Shiraz fruit on the long finish. Drink 2012-2017.

Based in Paarl and part of Hess Family Estates, Fairview is one of South Africa’s historic names, synonymous with the Back family who bought the estate in 1937. They produce a range of well-priced, mainly Rhone inspired wines under the watchful eye of winemaker Arco Laarman. They also produce the ever-popular entry level La Capra and Goats do Roam range that were tasted for this report, but not all made the grade.


2008 Fairview CalderaFairview A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

The 2008 Caldera is a blend of 50% Grenache (68-70 year old bush vines), 25% Shiraz and 25% Mourvedre aged in old wooden 225-liter barrels. It displays fresh blackberry, raspberry and white pepper on the nose that displays fine delineation, and the palate is generous on the entry, with peppery dark berries and a touch of game that leads to a dry, grainy, meaty finish that is very satisfying. Drink now-2016.


Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, Alabama. Tel 205-949-6262



http://www.fairview.co.za/%20


2007 Fairview The Beacon ShirazFairview A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $37

The 2007 The Beacon Shiraz is sourced from 17-18 year old small bush vines and has a mushroom-scented, mulberry, animally bouquet that is very subtle. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, good acidity: a real Northern Rhone-like texture with a dash of pepper and hung game towards the succinct finish. Feminine and elegant, this is another great Shiraz from Fairview. Drink now-2018.



2009 Glen Carlou Natural Sweet Chenin BlancGlen Carlou A Chenin Blanc Sweet White Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 2009 The Welder Natural Sweet Chenin Blanc had very few botrytized bunches, nonetheless it sports a well-defined nose with passion fruit, dried honey, vanilla pod and coconut with fine definition. The palate is medium-bodied with a ripe, passion fruit and honey-tinged entry. It displays very good acidity towards the elegant finish.

Established in 1985, Glen Carlou is one of Paarl’s most familiar names and has been part of Hess Family Estates since 2003.Winemaker Arco Laarman oversees a portfolio that ranges from the entry-level “Tortoise Hill” range to Prestige single-vineyard releases. There is certainly consistency here and even their top-level wines are reasonably priced.

Importer: Hess Selection, California; tel. (707) 255-1144




http://www.glencarlou.co.za/

2009 Glen Carlou Quartz Stone ChardonnayGlen Carlou A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $26

The superb 2009 Quartz Stone Chardonnay is a single vineyard bottling, fermented naturally and raised entirely in new oak for 11 months, though that is barely discernible on the fragrant, floral nose. The palate has a creamy texture on the entry with notes of apple-blossom, lime-flower, apricot and a touch of quince, demonstrating superb precision and length on the finish. Drink now-2020.



2008 Glen Carlou Grand ClassiqueGlen Carlou A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromPaarl, Western Cape, South Africa



2017 $16-$16

The most recent release is the 2008 Grand Classique, a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec, 14% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, and it is the first vintage that has seen 18 rather than 24 months of oak (40% new). The nose is refined and elegant with blackberry, cedar and a touch of cigar box whilst the palate is medium-bodied with harmonious blackberry, wild strawberry and tart red cherries. Understated and very well balanced, this is a succinct expression of South African Cabernet. Drink now-2017.







2007 Glen Carlou Gravel Quarry Cabernet SauvignonGlen Carlou A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2019 $40

The flagship 2007 Gravel Quarry Cabernet Sauvignon has a lifted, herbaceous, tertiary bouquet with tobacco, cedar and graphite that lends it an Old World personality. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy dark berries, bilberry, blueberry and a touch of salt towards the finish that has good length and definition. It handles the 24 months in new oak with aplomb, retaining freshness and vitality. Drink now-2019.



2001 Glen Carlou ChardonnayGlen Carlou A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2011

To prove its aging potential I was poured a 2001 Chardonnay. It has a fresh, intriguing bouquet with green lemon, bruised apple, almond and nectarine with fine delineation. The palate is very well balanced with a soft creamy texture leading to a harmonious nectarine, pineapple and quince tinged finish with good length. Drink now.







2010 Glenelly Grand Vin ChardonnayGlenelly A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $25

The superb 2010 Glenelly Grand Vin Chardonnay is matured for 11 months in French new oak and sports a refined, leesy bouquet with impressive definition and lift with creamy, nutty fruit in the background. The palate is well-defined on the entry with a gorgeous vanillary texture and sufficient acidity to keep it crisp and fresh. Harmonious and poised towards the finish, this would give many a self-aggrandizing Napa Chardonnay a run for its money...at under $25. Drink now-2017.

When the indefatigable May-Elaine de Lencquesaing purchased the 128-hectare Glenelly Estate in 2003, a new chapter opened up for her upon the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain. The following year, 60-hectares or red and 5-hectares of white grape varieties were planted, although it was not until 2009 that the state-of-the-art winery became operational. The first release was a Cape Blend from imported grapes and, to be honest, I remember the quality not being up to standard. However, the appointment of Luke O’Cuinneagain, who had worked at Chateau Angelus, Screaming Eagle and Rustenberg, plus the consultancy of Adi Badenhorst has had an immediate impact, and I was very impressed by these wines. She will be giving her old Deuxieme Cru a run for its money soon (and let’s not even think about comparing prices!)



http://www.glenellyestate.com/

2009 Glenelly Lady MayGlenelly A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $50

The 2009 Lady May is due later this year. It has an introverted nose at the moment with blackberry, leather, cedar and a touch of mint, all with very fine definition and unfurling with each swirl of the glass. The palate displays very fine tannins, very well integrated oak and a beautiful, pure, caressing finish that really satisfies both in terms of the senses and intellect. This is a succinctly crafted Bordeaux blend that will age with grace. Drink 2014-2020+.



2009 Glenelly The Glass Collection Cabernet SauvignonGlenelly A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $18

The 2009 The Glass Collection Cabernet Sauvignon is matured for 12 months in oak with racking every four. It has a lifted, slightly “briny” bouquet with good definition. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, a grainy texture with a dry, quite austere tobacco-laced finish. Showing impressive grip and persistence, I suggest leaving this for another 12 months in bottle. Drink 2013-2020.







2009 Glenelly The Glass Collection ShirazGlenelly A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $18

The 2009 The Glass Collection Shiraz is fresh and lively on the nose with minty black fruit and good delineation. The palate is well balanced with ripe blackberry, boysenberry, black olive and a touch of fennel that dovetails into a focused, well-defined finish that shows great persistence. Drink 2012-2018.



2008 Glenelly Grand Vin de GlenellyGlenelly A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $25

Cropped at 40 hectoliter per hectare, the 2008 Grand Vin de Glenelly is a blend of 40% Shiraz, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 14% Petit Verdot raised for 18 months in one-third new oak. The higher proportion of Cabernet lends the aromatics a more austere, Old World personality that is more reserved than its predecessor. The palate is very well balanced with good acidity and very well integrated oak. In terms of finesse, this is a step up from the 2007 without compromising on fruit intensity. For under $25 per bottle, one has to ask why you would bother with Bordeaux? Drink now-2018.

When the indefatigable May-Elaine de Lencquesaing purchased the 128-hectare Glenelly Estate in 2003, a new chapter opened up for her upon the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain. The following year, 60-hectares or red and 5-hectares of white grape varieties were planted, although it was not until 2009 that the state-of-the-art winery became operational. The first release was a Cape Blend from imported grapes





and, to be honest, I remember the quality not being up to standard. However, the appointment of Luke O’Cuinneagain, who had worked at Chateau Angelus, Screaming Eagle and Rustenberg, plus the consultancy of Adi Badenhorst has had an immediate impact, and I was very impressed by these wines. She will be giving her old Deuxieme Cru a run for its money soon (and let’s not even think about comparing prices!)


2008 Glenelly Lady MayGlenelly A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $50

The flagship 2008 Lady May is a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Petit Verdot that is raised for 24 months in new French oak. It has a very controlled, refined bouquet with intense blackberry, raspberry and cedar aromas with just a slight pepper/herbaceous edge. The palate is full-bodied with firm, grippy, austere tannins and superb balance that makes this so fresh and vibrant. There is a sense of symmetry and control that May-Elaine has imported from Pauillac. With great tension and persistence on the finish, this is a Bordeaux blend that merits cellaring. Drink 2014-2020+



2007 Glenelly Grand Vin de GlenellyGlenelly A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine from




South Africa



2017 $25

Cropped at 44 hectoliter per hectare, the 2007 Grand Vin de Glenelly is a blend of 44% Shiraz, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot raised for 18 months in one-third new oak. It has a very ripe, broody bouquet with blackberry, iodine, cassis and a touch of brine that handles the oak very well. The palate is medium-bodied with good acidity and very impressive harmony, the oak is seamlessly integrated and leads to a very seductive, tobacco and spice-tinged finish. This should age well. Drink now-2017.



2009 Graceland Cabernet SauvignonGraceland A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2018

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon has a very attractive, sensual bouquet of lush red currant, crushed strawberry and violets with very fine definition and purity, the oak seamlessly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth tannins, wonderful harmony and a deftly woven citric thread lending tautness on the finish. This is a great example of Stellenbosch Cabernet without overdoing it! Drink now-2018.

Samples arrived from this Stellenbosch winery just before my deadline, but the quality is so good I had to sneak them in! The 18-hectare estate on the Helderberg slopes were purchased by Paul and winemaker Susan McNaughton in 1990 and their wine debuted with the 1998 vintage, with the flagship “The Three Graces” four years later. (N.B. At time of writing, I was told that they cannot use the Graceland name in the USA. So at present only the Cabernet/Shiraz is imported under the “Strawberry Fields” moniker.)

Importer: Indigo Wine Group, 213 Nassau St, Venice, Florida. Tel 941-483-1816.

2009 Graceland Three Graces



http://www.gracelandvineyards.com/

Graceland A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 2009 Three Graces has a luscious, opulent nose with voluptuous red-berried fruit with hints of sloe and allspice and a touch of warm alcohol. The palate is full-bodied with sumptuous dark toasty fruit but there is good backbone here and the sweet, oaky finish has fine control and focus. This is a very well crafted, decadent South African Cape Blend.

Samples arrived from this Stellenbosch winery just before my deadline, but the quality is so good I had to sneak them in! The 18-hectare estate on the Helderberg slopes were purchased by Paul and winemaker Susan McNaughton in 1990 and their wine debuted with the 1998 vintage, with the flagship “The Three Graces” four years later. (N.B. At time of writing, I was told that they cannot use the Graceland name in the USA. So at present only the Cabernet/Shiraz is imported under the “Strawberry Fields” moniker.)

Importer: Indigo Wine Group, 213 Nassau St, Venice, Florida. Tel 941-483-1816.

2008 Graham Beck The Ridge Shiraz Franschhoek / RobertsonGraham Beck A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $21

Raised 19 months in 80% French and 20% American oak, the 2008 Ridge Syrah has a rounded ripe black currant, black plum and raspberry bouquet with attractive purity. The palate is very rounded in the mouth with velvety smooth tannins. It displays ripe, mocha-tinged, red-berried fruit and a seductive white pepper and espresso-tinged finish. This is a very fine Syrah. Drink now-2017.

Graham Beck passed away in July 2010 leaving one almighty legacy behind him: a state-of-the-art winery that welcomes thousands of visitors each year, their sparkling Brut chosen by Michele Obama for her husband’s inauguration ceremony as well as Nelson Mandela’s in 1994. But what matters most is that the Graham Beck Winery has a portfolio of wines that offers outstanding value, particular with respect to their sparkling wines and whites. Their cellar master Pieter Ferriera, is responsible for their sparkling wines and he took me through their entire range.

Importer: Maritime Wine Trading Collective, San Francisco, CA. Tel 415 606 5480.

2007 Graham Beck Blanc de BlancsGraham Beck



http://www.gracelandvineyards.com/

http://www.grahambeckwines.com/


A Dry White Sparkling wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $21

Disgorged November 2010, whole bunch pressed and matured in 7% new barrels, the 2007 Blanc de Blancs has a well defined nose that is initially reticent but opens nicely to offer limestone and fresh green apple aromas. The palate is well balanced with a subtle creamy entry, lovely texture and harmony that dovetails into a very refined finish. This is a very well crafted Blanc de Blancs. Drink now-2016.



2005 Graham Beck Cuvee CliveGraham Beck A Proprietary Blend Dry White Sparkling wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $50

The flagship Methode Cap Classique, the 2005 Cuvee Clive, is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir matured for 5 years on the lees. It has a very well defined bouquet with citrus lemon, almond, limestone and a touch of yeastiness coming through with aeration. The palate is very taut on the entry with good acidity, touches of crushed stone and a slight nutty character to the creamy, brioche-tinged finish. Drink now-2015.



2010 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay




Hamilton Russell A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromWalker Bay, South Africa



2020 $21-$33

Cropped at 16.86 hectoliter per hectare and raised in 35% new oak barrels, the 2010 Chardonnay is more reserved than the 2009 but retains very fine delineation with hints of grapefruit and nectarine. The palate has a very attractive hazelnut and lanolin-tinged entry. It has wonderful definition and a taut, citrus finish that is long in the mouth. Try to resist temptation and cellar this for several years. Drink 2012-2020.

Hamilton Russell put Hemel-en-Aarde and South African Pinot Noir on the map. Their first plantings were back in 1976 and they debuted with the 1981 vintage that deftly combined Old World and New. Their Chardonnay debuted in the early 1990s and when land came up for sale adjacent to the original estate, they used this vineyard to expand their range that includes the Ashbourne and Southern Right labels. Tasting verticals of their most recent vintages, my own impression is that their Chardonnay continues to rank amongst South Africa’s finest and in great vintages, their Pinot Noir can be utterly sublime and age as well as any great Burgundy. However, there is no escaping the fact that their Pinot Noir suffers under-ripeness in less benevolent, cooler vintages due to leaf-roll virus that was evident in the vineyards on my visit. Vinification is done through partial native yeasts and around 30-45% new oak is used with respect to both wines.


2009 Hamilton Russell Pinot NoirHamilton Russell A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $45

Cropped at 3.2tons/ha and raised entirely in French oak (45% new) the delectable 2009 Pinot Noir has a lifted bouquet of bright red cherries, red currant and a hint of dried blood. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a lovely caressing texture in the mouth, fine tension and poise with crisp red-berried fruits on the shimmering finish. Drink 2012-2017+




http://www.hamiltonrussellvineyards.com/



2009 Hamilton Russell ChardonnayHamilton Russell A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromWalker Bay, South Africa



2017 $20-$30

Cropped at a paltry 16.8 hectoliter per hectare, the 2009 Chardonnay displays great precision on the nose that soars from the glass and remains extremely taut and focused. It seems to be aging far more slowly than the 2008 and the aromatics unfurl with hints of nutmeg and quince with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very well integrated new oak (33%), again with a sense of fatness in the mouth, without compromising tension and focus, leading to a compelling leesy finish. Drink now-2017+






2016 $26-$35

The equally impressive 2008 Chardonnay has a very attractive, lightly honeyed bouquet with touches of greengage, lemon curd and honeycomb that is almost Meursault-like in style. The palate has a tangible “fatness” on the entry with very fine acidity. It displays elegant walnut-tinged citrus fruits with touches of crushed stone, dried apricot and quince. There is such precision on the finish that it would make a Burgundy Grand Cru blush. Drink now-2016+

Hamilton Russell put Hemel-en-Aarde and South African Pinot Noir on the map. Their first plantings were back in 1976 and they debuted with the 1981 vintage that deftly combined Old World and New. Their





Chardonnay debuted in the early 1990s and when land came up for sale adjacent to the original estate, they used this vineyard to expand their range that includes the Ashbourne and Southern Right labels. Tasting verticals of their most recent vintages, my own impression is that their Chardonnay continues to rank amongst South Africa’s finest and in great vintages, their Pinot Noir can be utterly sublime and age as well as any great Burgundy. However, there is no escaping the fact that their Pinot Noir suffers under-ripeness in less benevolent, cooler vintages due to leaf-roll virus that was evident in the vineyards on my visit. Vinification is done through partial native yeasts and around 30-45% new oak is used with respect to both wines.

2007 Hamilton Russell Pinot NoirHamilton Russell A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $43

The sublime 2007 Pinot Noir demonstrates greater mineralite on the nose compared to the previous vintage. There is wonderful tension and scents of red currant, tomato leaf and sage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannins. There is good acidity and harmony with the oak dancing in tune with a natural, crisp red berried fruit and a grainy, refined, tertiary finish that is very Old World. Drink now-2016+



2006 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir



Hamilton Russell A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $44

Better is the 2006 Pinot Noir with touches of undergrowth and autumn leaves on the nose with good definition, though I would like more primary freshness at this stage. However, the palate has more structure and vibrancy than the 2005 with raspberry leaf, maraschino cherries, a touch of black pepper and a saline tang towards the finish. Drink now-2015+.






2016 $32

The 2005 Chardonnay has a gorgeous, honeyed bouquet with touches of Seville orange marmalade and quince. The palate is rich and decadent with viscous honeyed fruits, superb acidity and hints of marmalade, lanolin and beeswax. It has great length and precision and is at its peak now. Drink now-2016.







2008 Hartenberg Estate MerlotHartenberg Estate A Merlot Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $38

Matured for 17 months in 50% new French oak, the 2008 Merlot has a bold upfront, opulent bouquet of ripe plummy fruit that has great purity. The palate is full-bodied with cedar and mocha on the entry, ample ripe black fruits with superb weight in the mouth. This is a huge mouthful of delicious Merlot to drink over the next four to five years.

Viticulture at Hartenberg can be traced all the way back to the turn of the 17th century, but it was really under the Finlayson family, who acquired the estate in 1948, that emphasis was placed upon producing quality Stellenbosch wine. Carl Schultz is the resident winemaker who overseas a consistent and at times, impressive portfolio. The basic varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and especially the Shiraz are worth seeking out, though I would counter that their ultra-premium cuvees just a little overworked in terms of oak and level of alcohol and not quite achieving the heights that a price point demands.


2007 Hartenberg Estate ShirazHartenberg Estate A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2017 $50

The superb 2007 Shiraz was raised for 22 months in 50% new oak and has a very intense bouquet of macerated black cherries, black olive, undergrowth and a touch of braised meat. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe tannins that belie the backbone underneath. It gains volume in the mouth with layers of ripe plum, blackberry and black olive with a very harmonious finish. This is a gorgeous, ravishing Shiraz to savour now and over the next 5-6 years.

Viticulture at Hartenberg can be traced all the way back to the turn of the 17th century, but it was really under the Finlayson family, who acquired the estate in 1948, that emphasis was placed upon producing quality Stellenbosch wine. Carl Schultz is the resident winemaker who overseas a consistent and at times, impressive portfolio. The basic varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and especially the Shiraz are worth seeking out, though I would counter that their ultra-premium cuvees just a little overworked in terms of oak and level of alcohol and not quite achieving the heights that a price point



http://www.hartenbergestate.com/


demands.


2007 Hartenberg Estate The Mackenzie Bordeaux BlendHartenberg Estate A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $105

The 2007 The MacKenzie is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 7% Malbec raised entirely in French oak for 22 months. It has a very toasty, oaky bouquet where the wood obfuscates the fruit profile. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins on the entry, good acidity with sultry dark berried fruit and a grainy finish. I feel that a prudent oak regime would have allowed more fruit expression. Drink 2012-2016.



2007 Hartenberg Estate The Stork Shiraz



Hartenberg Estate A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $105

Sourced from terra rossa soils on southeast slopes, 2007 The Stork was raised for 27 months entirely in French oak. It has a decadent, almost ostentatious bouquet of macerated dark cherries, creme de cassis, plum and glycerine. The palate is full-bodied with silky smooth, seamless tannins and layers of luscious red fruits. The alcohol at 15.54% is well controlled although it lends the finish warmth rather than precision. For hedonists, this is the perfect Shiraz! Drink 2012-2018.



2007 Hartenberg Estate Cabernet SauvignonHartenberg Estate A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2018 $36

Better is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Using 10% whole berries with 60% raised in new oak for 18 months, it has a ripe, well-defined bouquet with blackberry, black olive, cedar and sandalwood. The palate is well-defined with plump black toasty fruit on the entry, good acidity and impressive structure towards the cedar-infused, fig-tinged finish. Drink 2012-2018.


Importer: Terry Seitz Inc., Boca Grande, FL; tel. (941) 473-8769; fax (941) 473-89

2007 Hartenberg Estate The Eleanor Chardonnay





Hartenberg Estate A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $50

Matured for 11 months entirely in new French oak, the flagship white 2007 The Eleanor Chardonnay has a very refined bouquet with deftly integrated oak and aromas of lime leaf, passion fruit, dried lemon peel and a touch of hazelnut. The palate is well-defined on the rounded entry and shows good acidity, ample nutty, almost Meursault-like fruit and a tensile finish. This is an excellent Stellenbosch Chardonnay. Drink now-2017+



2006 Hartenberg Estate Gravel Hill Shiraz (Cape Winemakers Guild)Hartenberg Estate A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2018 $230

The 2006 Gravel Hill Shiraz is sourced from a specific site identified by winemaker Carl Schultz and is raised in new Allier oak for 22 months. It has a very perfumed, floral bouquet with macerated dark cherries, sloe, crushed violets and cloves with some signs of over-ripeness. The palate is very ripe and fleshy and is lavished in new oak, but consequently it lacks a little tension and mineralite towards the rounded finish. Though undeniably attractive, it is not the intellectual wine it aspires to be. Drink 2012-2018.



2009 Intellego Wines Chenin Blanc

A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine from





South Africa



Handcrafted in Swartland by winemaker Jurgen Gouws, the 2009 Chenin Blanc is sourced from three different parcels of 35-40 year old bush vines and raised 11 months in French oak. It has fine purity on the nose with touches of fresh pear, dried apricot, cinnamon and a little hazelnut. The palate is very well balanced with good acidity, very natural and refined with a pleasing spicy, walnut tinged finish that shows great composure if not quite the precision of top Chenin. But for a debut vintage this is very promising, especially since Jurgen will blend in 60-year old bush vines next year. Just 60 cases produced but will increase in the future.

No US importer.

2010 Iona Sauvignon BlancIona A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $17

The superb 2010 Sauvignon Blanc has a very Loire-like, flinty bouquet with impressive delineation; imbued with a tangible “coolness” you might say. The palate is very well defined with subtle apricot and white peach notes behind the ripe gooseberry fruit. With attractive harmony towards the finish, this represents a very fine Elgin Sauvignon. Drink now-2015.

Owned by Andrew Gunn who named his estate after a Scottish island, Iona is hidden down a long dirt track in Elgin and its long incline gives a good idea of their high altitude (450m) vineyards, affording a spectacular view across the valley. Here they exploit the long growing season to create relatively low alcohol wines brimming with poise and tension.

Importer: Protea Wine Imports (Baltimore), Cape Ardor (West Coast), Martin Scott Wines (NY) & Terry Seitz (Florida).

2009 Iona ChardonnayIona



http://www.iona.co.za/


A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $22

Another highly recommended Iona white is the 2009 Chardonnay, fermented 70% in French oak, a judicious 20% new with some lees aging thereafter. It has a well-defined bouquet with light peach and hazelnut notes and the oak is very well integrated, allowing the fruit to express itself to the fullest. The palate is very well balanced with a touch of fatness on the entry leading to a taut middle with good acidity and lovely nutty, honeyed flavours towards the finish. This is a very fine Elgin Chardonnay, plus great value to boot. Drink now-2015.



2007 Iona ShirazIona A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



The excellent 2007 Shiraz was matured in 500-liter barrels with 30% new oak. It has a clean, well defined, pure nose of dark plum, blackberry and damson fruit with just a faint hint of white pepper, although it is still youthful for its age. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that belie a real solid structure. Very good complexity, very Northern Rhone-like in style, it has great precision and impressive complexity towards the edgy, chalky finish. Excellent.






2006 Iona The GunnarIona A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $20

Named after a Viking son, 2006 The Gunnar is a Bordeaux blend consisting of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot that undergoes 12 to 18 months in barrel with around 30% new oak. The nose displays impressive definition with lively, crisp red currant, raspberry and dark plum fruit with just a faint hint of tar and cedar wood. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good acidity, well integrated new oak and an expressive, Bordeaux-like finish with touches of graphite and tobacco. Drink now-2015.



1800 Jaubert Muscat d'AlexandrieA Muscat Sweet White Dessert wine fromSouth Africa



2100

Just twelve 250-litre bottles of this incredibly rare and ancient Muscat d’Alexandrie are released from a 100-litre French oak barrel in Klein Karoo that is topped up each year. It has an iridescent clear amber hue with green tints on the rim. The nose is simply stellar: candied orange peel, toffee, apricot and almond soar from the glass and fix you to the spot. The palate is perfectly balanced and fresher than some South African wines two centuries younger! It has a Sauternes-like viscosity but is not cloying like a Tokaji Essenzia. There is a touch of sherbet at the tip of the tongue and then it fans out towards a kaleidoscope of spice, clove, candied fruits and a touch of honey. One can discern an oxidative tang towards the finish that has a touch of volatility. Very long and intense and yet somehow refined and elegant, this is an ethereal experience. Drink now-2100+. Tasted June 2011.




2009 Jordan Nine Yards ChardonnayJordan A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $40

I tasted the 2009 Nine Yards Chardonnay twice (both blind). Almost entirely fermented in new French oak with 12 months on the lees, it has a generous , leesy bouquet with touches of vanilla, almond flakes and white peach. The palate has a ripe, tropical tinged entry but there is also admirable acidity and purity, rendering this a very well made Chardonnay with great depth and power. Nevertheless, I was expecting just a little more tension and mineralite on the finish. Drink now-2017.

Established in 1982 by Ted and Sheelagh Jordan, their son, erstwhile geologist Gary Jordan, and his wife have done much to put Stellenbosch on the map. Their vines lies between 160 meters and 410 meters above sea level and their winery uses gravity flow to vinify the wine in stainless steel tanks. Their winery also sports one of South Africa’s finest restaurants.

Importer World Premiere Wines and Vinnovative Imports, Mooresville, NC.

2009 Jordan ChardonnayJordan A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $18

The 2009 Chardonnay is one of Gary Jordan’s best whites. With half the crop fermented in French oak (50% new) with 9 months lees aging, it has a taut, reserved, but very focused bouquet that displays judicious use of new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp entry and good acidity and shows subtle green apple, lime flower and hazelnut notes towards the composed finish. This is not a showy Chardonnay, but one that is very well crafted and succinct. Drink now-2016.





http://www.jordanwinery.com/


2009 Jordan Bradgate SyrahJordan A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $12

The entry-level 2009 Bradgate Syrah offers outstanding value for the price. It has a surprisingly complex nose that takes time to unfurl in the glass but eventually offers maraschino cherries, a touch of mint, leather and underbrush, but all very subtle and contained. The palate is medium-bodied with very silky, refined tannins that lend it symmetry and grace. It is very pure on the finish, slipping down the throat with ease. Drink now-2015.



2008 Jordan The Prospector SyrahJordan A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $18

The 2008 The Prospector Syrah was aged in American and French oak for 16 months. It has a very backward nose at the moment that is austere at first with cedar, tobacco and sandalwood dominating more than the fruit that is more tangible on the palate. This Syrah has a fleshy texture, good weight and focus with ripe black fruits in synch with the new oak. It bides its time, opening gradually, responding to aeration and therefore, I recommend affording this Syrah another twelve months in bottle and enjoy the Bradgate 2009 for now. Drink 2013-2018.


Importer World Premiere Wines and Vinnovative Imports, Mooresville, NC





2008 Kanonkop Paul Sauer StellenboschKanonkop A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2020 $42

The finish is quite dry, just missing the delineation and freshness that might have been there a few years ago. I would much rather the 2008 Paul Sauer, a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot, matured for 24 months in new oak. It has blackberry, cedar, sandalwood, and a touch of undergrowth on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, moderate definition with a seductive succulent finish. Very classic and perhaps old fashioned in style but well made, drink it 2012-2020.

Kanonkop is named after the hillock from which a cannon was fired in the 17th century. This Stellenbosch estate is one of the region’s grandees, specializing in red varieties including a highly respected Pinotage, crowned by their flagship “Paul Sauer” and “Black Label” labels. Winemaker Abrie Beeslaar has been at the helm since 2002.


2007 Kanonkop Cabernet SauvignonKanonkop A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $30

Much better was the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a very well-defined nose with ripe red-berried fruit, and a touch of mint and cedar with very good lift. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and very fresh. Whilst not a complex Cabernet, it is very restrained and has a pleasing, slightly muted cedar and black currant finish. This well crafted Cabernet should age nicely over 8-10 years. Drink now-2018.





http://www.kanonkop.co.za/


2006 Kanonkop Black Label PinotageKanonkop A Pinotage Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020

The 2006 “Black Label” Pinotage is a limited edition of 1,250 bottles from a small plot of 53-year old Pinotage matured for 16 months in French Nevers barrels. It has a very backward bouquet at first that takes time to unfurl: blackberry, black olive, seaweed and a touch of licorice. The palate has a very fine entry with great harmony and poise, touches of black olive coming through again, tightly wound with a seamless finish. Serious stuff! Drink now-2020.



1999 Kanonkop Pinotage StellenboschKanonkop A Pinotage Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2011

To attest to the longevity of the varietal I was poured a 1999 Pinotage that was matured in 80% new oak. It has a well-defined, fresh bouquet with blackberry, and a touch of mocha and undergrowth. The palate is well balanced with fine, slightly furry tannins. It is graced with a very sensual mouthfeel and good acidity with a harmonious, tarry, Medocian finish. Case proven! Drink now.







2010 Keermont Vineyards FleurfonteinKeermont Vineyards A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $39

A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Chenin Blanc made from grapes dried on the vine, this 2010 Fleurfontein has superb definition on the nose with Sauternes-like honeyed fruits with great purity and definition. The palate has very good acidity and tension to cut through the 126g/l sugar, leading to a mouth-caressing, understated finish with honey, pear, quince and vanilla. Drink now-2016+.

Keermont Vineyards is a bright star on the horizon. Owned by Mark and Monica Wraith, the first of their 27-hectares was planted only in 2005, located at 250-400m altitude in the Blaauwklippen Valley in the shadow of Guardian Peak. There is a very artisanal approach here, winemaker Alex Starey overseeing elegant wines that belie their intensity. I tasted the wines both blind and with Alex himself, before he rushed off with his surfboard. Importer: Kysela Pere & Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228.

2010 Keermont Vineyards White Blend TerrasseKeermont Vineyards A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $27

A blend of 88% Chenin Blanc, 7% Chardonnay and 5% Viognier, the 2010 Terrasse was raised in 2nd and 3rd year French oak. It has fine delineation on the nose with lime flower, coconut, patisserie and a touch of brioche. The palate is vibrant and fresh on the entry with good acidity, a nice citrus seam that cuts through the vanilla and almond-tinged fruit with impressive precision on the saline finish. Bon vin! Drink now-2016.




http://www.keermont.co.za/


2009 Keermont Vineyards SyrahKeermont Vineyards A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $40

Just 1,500 bottles of the 2009 Syrah were sourced from deep red loam/granite soils at 350m altitude. It has a superb bouquet with blackberry, white pepper, white fennel and a touch of game that you could mistake for a Cote-Rotie. The palate is very elegant and well defined on the entry with palpable mineralite and finesse on the finish. Understated and very refined, South Africa needs more Rhone blends of this calibre. Drink now-2018.


2008 Keermont Vineyards KeermontKeermont Vineyards A Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $40

The 2008 Keermont has dark berries, allspice and a touch of cedar on the crisp nose that offers elusive scents of brine and seaweed with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruits on the supple entry, ripe sappy tannins and a structured, well-focused finish. It does not quite have the panache of the 2007 and lacks the same length, but it is patently handcrafted and blossoms with aeration. Drink now-2016.






2007 Keermont Vineyards KeermontKeermont Vineyards A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 20% Shiraz, the 2007 Keermont has a lifted bouquet of mulberry, blackberry, white pepper and a touch of iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grainy tannins and a dash of white pepper. It is very elegant and displays wonderful tension towards the fresh, shimmering finish. This is drinking beautifully now but should age well over 4-5 years.


2010 Ken Forrester Petit Cabernet / MerlotKen Forrester A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2014 $10

A blend of 65% Cabernet and 35% Merlot, the marvelous 2010 Petit Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot has a herbaceous, Cru Bourgeois-like nose but is fresh, well defined and full of energy. The palate is vibrant on the entry and embraces Old World freshness and vitality better than most Bordeaux! It has a delicious, crisp peppery fruit with a touch of cedar and graphite on the well-defined finish. The only thing “Petit” about this superb wine is the price. Drink now-2014.

Whilst I have enjoyed more than my fair share of legendary Bordeaux wines, Ken Forrester provides a pertinent reminder that great Cabernet can be made for under ten-dollars. You could count the number of Bordeaux chateaux offering equivalent QPR on one finger. This, and the rest of his portfolio represent everything that can be achieved in South Africa: cleanly made, expressive wines at unbeatable prices interspersed with one of two flagship wines that mean business. If you have never tried South African wine before, then I cannot think of a better place to start than here.





http://www.kenforresterwines.com/

2010 Ken Forrester Reserve Chenin BlancKen Forrester A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017

Aged for 12 months in the same oak regime as the regular Chenin Blanc with the fruit picked a little riper, the 2010 Reserve Chenin Blanc has a well-defined bouquet with very well integrated oak and hints of hazelnut and spice. It has a very well balanced palate with powerful citrus fruits laced with lemon curd, orange essence, apricot and brioche that dovetail into a precise finish. This Chenin comes highly recommended, especially for the price. Drink now-2017+



2009 Ken Forrester The FMCKen Forrester A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $60

Sourced from Chenin Blanc vines planted in 1967, with natural wild yeast fermentation, and raised in about 85% new oak, the flagship 2009 The FMC has a beautifully defined, intoxicating bouquet with lemon curd, frangipane, almond and just a touch of nutmeg. The palate has a rounded, waxy texture with wonderful harmony and precision. There are subtle flavours of dried apricot, brioche, vanilla, a touch of honey (perhaps a little botrytis) and a hint of spice. Seductive, harmonious and very focussed, The FMC is a sublime expression of South African Chenin Blanc. Drink now-2020.







2007 Ken Forrester The Gypsy

Ken Forrester A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $60

From 50-year old Grenache and 30-year old Syrah vines matured for 24 months in barrel, the marvellous 2007 The Gypsy has a rustic, natural, earthy bouquet with touches of mulberry and white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It is still a little tight considering its age, but very focused and utterly fresh and elegant. Drink now-2020.



2006 Ken Forrester RenegadeKen Forrester A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

A blend of 50/50 Syrah and Grenache (the latter from 52-year old vines) the 2006 Renegade has a crisp nose of mulberry, white pepper and tertiary notes that unfold from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a sappy, fresh entry: bright red-berried fruit, vibrant acidity. However I would like just a little more complexity towards the finish. Drink 2012-2016.

Whilst I have enjoyed more than my fair share of legendary Bordeaux wines, Ken Forrester provides a pertinent reminder that great Cabernet can be made for under ten-dollars. You could count the number of Bordeaux chateaux offering equivalent QPR on one finger. This, and the rest of his portfolio represent everything that can be achieved in South Africa: cleanly made, expressive wines at unbeatable prices





interspersed with one of two flagship wines that mean business. If you have never tried South African wine before, then I cannot think of a better place to start than here.


2005 Ken Forrester Three HalvesKen Forrester A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015

The 2005 Three Halves is Ken Forrester’s expression of Mourvedre that comprises 50% of the blend raised in 400-liter old barrels. It has a rustic, Bandol-like earthy bouquet with lovely broody dark red-berried fruit laced with cinnamon and a touch of garrigue. The palate is soft and generous on the entry, beautifully balanced with a seamless finish that takes you straight to the south of France (via Stellenbosch). Excellent! Drink now-2015+



2003 Ken Forrester Reserve Chenin BlancKen Forrester A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

The 2003 Reserve Chenin Blanc has a beautiful, honeyed bouquet with touches of melted butter, almond and lychee. The palate is soft, gentle and honeyed with fine acidity, leading to a caressing, harmonious finish. Drink now-2016+

Whilst I have enjoyed more than my fair share of legendary Bordeaux wines, Ken Forrester provides a pertinent reminder that great Cabernet can be made for under ten-dollars. You could count the number of





Bordeaux chateaux offering equivalent QPR on one finger. This, and the rest of his portfolio represent everything that can be achieved in South Africa: cleanly made, expressive wines at unbeatable prices interspersed with one of two flagship wines that mean business. If you have never tried South African wine before, then I cannot think of a better place to start than here.


2010 Klein Constantia Sauvignon BlancKlein Constantia A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2013

Blended with 3-4% Semillon and kept on its lees for 2 or 3 months, the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc has a vibrant Granny Smith, gooseberry and white asparagus-tinged nose with grassy aromas coming through with aeration. The palate is crisp on the entry with good balance. It maintains great tension from start to finish with crisp green apples and a hint of bell pepper. Drink now-2013.

One of South Africa’s most iconic wineries, in the 18th century the sweet wines of Constantia were esteemed in the same way as China covets Lafite-Rothschild. For decades the wines were forgotten, but are now once again, highly coveted. The good news is that a recent bottling does not cost the thousands of dollars of an 18th century bottle. Just days after I visited, the Jooste family sold their shares to Zdenek Bakala and Charles Harman, from the US and UK respectively and I tasted the wines with Adam Mason, who will continue his role as winemaker.


2006 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance Natural Sweet WineKlein Constantia A Muscat Sweet White Table wine fromConstantia, South Africa



2050 $50

Klein Constantia’s most famous wine, the 2006 Vin de Constance underwent several tries during picking in order to eliminate green fruit, and the 2006 includes 10% raisined berries, some as Aszu and 80% whole bunches. It has a heavenly bouquet with apricot blossom, honeysuckle, elderflower and pear drop that is mesmerizing. The palate is vibrant and animated with notes of raisin, fresh fig and Seville orange marmalade. It has a life-enhancing silver thread of acidity and a long waxy, honeyed finish that lacquers



http://www.kleinconstantia.com/%20


the mouth but is imbued with great freshness and vitality. It is easy to see why this elixir was so coveted 200 years ago. Drink now-2050+.

One of South Africa’s most iconic wineries, in the 18th century the sweet wines of Constantia were esteemed in the same way as China covets Lafite-Rothschild. For decades the wines were forgotten, but are now once again, highly coveted. The good news is that a recent bottling does not cost the thousands of dollars of an 18th century bottle. Just days after I visited, the Jooste family sold their shares to Zdenek Bakala and Charles Harman, from the US and UK respectively and I tasted the wines with Adam Mason, who will continue his role as winemaker.


1987 Klein Constantia Rhine RieslingKlein Constantia A Riesling Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 1987 Rhine Riesling has a muted but well defined nose of melted wax resin, tree sap, undergrowth, fish oil and a dash of nutmeg. The palate is very well balanced with a succinct, apricot, orange-essence and citrus-tinged entry that fans out beautifully across the mouth with a hint of pear drop on the finish. This is very pretty and alluring. Tasted May 2011.

1987 Klein Constantia Sauvignon BlancKlein Constantia A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



Opened at Klein Constantia, the 1987 was the second offering from the estate, one not initially released due to the rain and subsequent botrytis. It has a better, more vibrant, slightly honeyed bouquet compared to the 1986, with notes of dried honey, lanolin, lime and orange-blossom with very good definition. The palate is well balanced with good acidity. It is not a complex, mature Sauvignon Blanc, but it is still fresh with hints of botrytis lending it a lightly honeyed, nutmeg and spice-tinged finish. Superb! Tasted May 2011.

2009 KWV The Mentors OrchestraKWV





http://www.kwv.co.za/

A Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2019

The 2009 The Mentors Orchestra was tasted blind during the Trophy Show and demonstrated how this giant of the South Africa wine industry has really turned a corner in terms of quality. It has a crisp, delineated bouquet with hints of dark chocolate and mocha interlacing the dark berried fruits. The palate is elegant with very fine tension, well-integrated oak and a long, caressing finish. This is a very well crafted wine from KWV. Drink now-2019.

The huge KWV winery dominates the highway into Paarl and was established in 1918 to support the wine industry. They are synonymous with entry-level wines that flock upon supermarket shelves, but do not overlook the quality of their Mentors range that performed admirably under tough blind conditions against more exalted peers. I have focused on “Mentors” but will endeavour to taste their entire portfolio in the future.

1933 KWV MuscadelleKWV A Muscadelle Sweet Red Dessert wine fromSouth Africa



Bottled in the 1970s, this is almost opaque in the glass with thick tears on the rim. The nose is very difficult to convey: fresh prune mixed with a few drop of white spirit. Remember that cough syrup your mum used to give you when you were young? This Muscadelle is almost overwhelming in taste, but it is a hedonistic vinous experience with menthol, syrup, raisin and star anis all vying for attention before a mouth lacquering cough candy crescendo on the finish. Tasted May 2011.

2010 La Motte Pierneef Sauvignon BlancLa Motte A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

Sourced from an organic vineyard in the Walker Bay area planted in 2001, the organically grown 2010 Pierneef Sauvignon Blanc represents a step up in quality over the regular Sauvignon. Initially closed on




http://www.kwv.co.za/

http://www.la-motte.com/

the nose, it unfolds with flint and limestone scents that render it very Loire-like and this trait comes through on the well-balanced palate that displays impressive mineralite and precision. This is an excellent Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now-2016.

When first visiting a state-of-the-art winery where money has been conspicuously lavished on a chichi restaurant, ornate gardens, art gallery and a tourist shop, I get a little cynical and fear that it is cosmetics for sub-standard wine. That is not the case here at La Motte. This Franschhoek winery owned by the Rupert family, offers a very strong portfolio with some exceptional high quality Rhone blends at outstanding prices. Much of the success is due to viticulturalist Pietie Le Roux, who has introduced organic farming at their Nabot farm in Walker Bay and winemaker Edmund Terblanche, who fashions an elegant, refined style of wine with generally lower alcohol levels that their peers. Consequently, freshness and vitality shone through. I was astonished these wines are not distributed in the USA.

No US importer.

2009 La Motte Chardonnay

La Motte A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

Sourced from a 4.9-hectare block of vines planted in 1997, the 2009 Chardonnay has a very crisp, well-defined bouquet with subtle leesy aromas entwined with judicious new oak (30%). The palate is very well balanced with a tightly wound, yeasty entry and very fine acidity. It remains tight-lipped towards the finish, suggesting that another 12 months in bottle will allow this to mellow and evolve. Drink 2012-2018.


No US importer.

2008 La Motte Cabernet SauvignonLa Motte A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

Sourced mainly from Stellenbosch, Paarl, Elgin and Durbanville, blended with 14% Cabernet Franc and





matured half in French oak barrels, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon has fresh blackberry, mulberry and a touch of green bell pepper on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with good weight on the entry, the Cabernet Franc lending this an Old World, classic personality. The tannins are firm and a little “chunky” at the moment, but they lend it ample freshness and vitality on the tarry, cranberry and blackberry finish. Drink 2012-2018.


No US importer.

2008 La Motte Millenium

La Motte A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



Sourced from the Bot River, the 2008 Millennium is a blend of 44% Cabernet Franc, 24% Merlot, 15% Malbec, 11% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 50% new oak for 15 months. It has a subtle, crisp nose of blackberry, black olive and a touch of crushed stone. The palate is softened by the Merlot on the entry and has a gentle, but insistent grip. The tannins are fine and it is graced with sappy blackberry, dark plum and tobacco notes towards the finish. Overall, this is a very well crafted Bordeaux blend that should age for at least five years.


No US importer.

2008 La Motte Pierneef Shiraz / ViognierLa Motte A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa


eRobertParker.com Neal Martin 93 Drink 2012 -





Aug 2011 2017

Blended with 11% Viognier and sourced mainly from the Bot River in Walker Bay, the 2008 Shiraz/Viognier has a very refined bouquet that will need a couple of years to absorb the new oak (63%). The Viognier certainly lends it an alcoholic left. The palate is ripe and rounded on the entry with good acidity, plush in texture with smooth supple tannins that leads to a very well defined, sensual finish that is laced with a dash of white pepper. This is simply superb. Drink 2012-2017.


No US importer.

2008 La Motte ShirazLa Motte A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

Raised for 14 months in 25% French barriques, the 2008 Shiraz has wonderful mineralite on the nose with scents of cassis, mulberry and black pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and expressive flavours of mulberry, clove and white pepper that leads to an elegant, understated but persistent finish. This is impressive Shiraz that should age over the next decade. Drink now-2018.


No US importer.

2007 La Motte Pierneef Shiraz / GrenacheLa Motte A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa






2022

The superb 2007 Shiraz/Grenache is a blend of 53% Shiraz, 30% Grenache and 17% Mourvedre sourced mainly from Wellington. Raised in 60% new oak for 15 months, it has a vibrant bouquet with bright, spicy red-berried fruit, white pepper and scorched earth. The palate is succulent and fleshy on the entry with good acidity. It has impressive purity and exudes great mineralite towards the finish. Overall, this is a very well crafted Rhone blend to cellar over the next decade. Drink now-2022.


No US importer.

2005 La Motte Hanneli RLa Motte A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

La Motte’s flagship brand, the 2005 Hanneli R is a blend of 55% Shiraz, 29% Grenache, 8% Cinsault and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon with 14.71% alcohol. Matured in 500-liter French oak barrels for 36-months it has a ripe bouquet of dark plum, licorice and crushed flowers that would benefit from more delineation and precision. The palate is full-bodied with ripe Dorset plum, fresh prune and a touch of mint. This is a powerful flagship wine, however, it just lacks the delineation and finesse of La Motte’s Rhone blends. Drink 2014-2018.


No US importer.




2010 Lammershoek MourvedreLammershoek A Mourvedre Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

The 2010 Mourvedre that marks the first separate bottling of their 2-hectare block, having previously been blended into the Roulette. It has a potent nose of vibrant dark berried fruit, white pepper and a touch of Provencal herbs. The palate is medium-bodied with good acidity, and is very Bandol-like in style, with just the right amount of charming rusticity. It displays ample weight on the grippy, stemmy finish with tobacco and a tinge of Earl Grey lingering on the aftertaste. This should be well worth seeking out after bottling. Drink 2013-2018.

Look out for Swartland’s Lammershoek: a good producer that is moving up the gears judging by the tank samples of 2010 I tasted. Much of that I think is due to winemaker Craig Hawkins who is moving away from higher alcohol wines i.e. around 13% and towards less extraction through less pigeage. The emphasis here is upon sustainability and minimal intervention and to exploit their parcels of 50-year old Chenin Blanc and Syrah. (See also Craig’s own label: Testalonga.)

Importer: Worthwhile Wine Company, Atlanta, GA; tel. (678) 358-5241.

2010 Lammershoek SyrahLammershoek A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa


eRobertParker.comAug 2011 Neal Martin (88-90) Drink -



http://www.lammershoekwinery.co.za/


The 2010 Syrah marks a level up in quality. Taken directly from wooden vat, it has a lifted red currant, mulberry and raspberry-scented nose with freshness and vitality. The palate is bursting full of fresh, sappy red currant and “zippy” Morello cherry laced with a touch of citrus lemon. Look out for this wine after it is bottled in September 2011.



2010 Lammershoek Chenin Blanc / ViognierLammershoek A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2014

A blend of 60% Chenin Blanc and 40% Viognier, the un-wooded 2010 Chenin Blanc/Viognier has a simple, fresh, wax resin bouquet. The palate is fresh and lively on the entry with almond, lemon curd and beeswax, the finish is understated but harmonious and persistent. It unfurls nicely in the glass, so do not be afraid to aerate this for an hour before serving. Drink now-2014.



2010 Lammershoek Roulette BlancLammershoek A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

Based upon 50% Chenin Blanc and 30% Viognier, the concrete tank sample of the 2010 Roulette Blanc already displays promising delineation and focus on the nose with those traits of lemon curd and spice beginning to emerge. The palate appears well balanced with good acidity and harmony with hints of





nectarine and lemongrass. This is very promising. Drink 2012-2016.



1961 Lanzerac PinotageLanzerac A Pinotage Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 1961 was the second release after the 1959 and was raised in 5,000-litre vessels. Deep in colour, this 50-year old Stellenbosch Pinotage has a surprisingly ripe nose with touches of star anis inflecting the well-defined, dark berried fruit. There is a pastille tincture to the bouquet with hints of wild mint and orange essence. The palate is well balanced with a sweet, ripe entry and a lovely caressing mouthfeel. The acidity is perfectly judged with a surprising degree of succulence on the finish, and dare I suggest that it is equal to some of its alumni from Bordeaux! It is one of those bottles that completely alters preconceptions. Tasted May 2011.

2008 Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon ReserveLe Riche A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2016

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is very similar to the regular bottling but with a little more intensity. The palate is very well balanced with succulent black fruits and has a vivacious, very delineated finish that is top-class. Drink now-2016.



http://www.lanzerac.co.za/

http://www.leriche.co.za/

Le Riche is located in the Jonkershoek Valley in Stellenbosch, where Etienne Le Riche oversees a respected portfolio, crowned by their highly regarded Reserve Cabernet.

No US importer.

2004 Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon ReserveLe Riche A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa


Wine JournalDec 2007 Neal Martin 92 Drink 2007 -

2014

A very attractive nose of mocha, blackberry, cedar and smoke: complex and engaging. The palate is well-defined with blackberry, pain grille, leather and cooked meats. Medium-bodied, well balanced with well-judged acidity, this is a complex, cerebral wine with a pert cherry-tinged finish. Drink now-2014. Tasted September 2007.

2008 Lynx The LynxLynx A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $50

The 2008 The Lynx is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It has a ripe, almost honeyed, rich bouquet with touches of cedar and melted chocolate, whilst the palate is well-balanced with succulent tannins and touches of candied orange peel on the silky smooth finish. It is very seductive and caressing, although it lacks a little intellect. Drink 2012-2017.

Lynx Estate in Franschhoek released its maiden vintage in 2003. Winemaker Dieter Sellmeyer sources all his fruit from his own vineyard and therefore quantities tend to be very small.

Importer: Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; Tel. (866) 57-STARZ, Fax: (714) 892-6930.

2009 Meerlust Cabernet SauvignonMeerlust A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



http://www.leriche.co.za/

http://www.lynxwines.co.za/

http://www.meerlust.co.za/



2018 $30

I prefer the excellent 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. Matured for 18 months in 80% new Nevers 300-liter barrels, the it represents the first release since 2005. It has a broody nose of dark berried fruit, a touch of mint and cedar with a scent of hot bricks emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with ripe, fleshy tannins and vibrant acidity. There seems to be greater focus and precision here than displayed by the flagship Rubicon. Drink now-2018.

Meerlust is one of Stellenbosch’s, perhaps South Africa’s most famous names, owned by the Myburgh family since 1757. Their 110-hectares of vine are focused upon classic French grape varieties and their flagship Rubicon, which debuted in 1980, has become one of the country’s international icons. All said, the current range of wines did not quite set the pulse racing. Whilst the Rubicon is certainly a good wine at a reasonable price, I feel that it might have been overtaken by some of its peers in recent years, perhaps including cellar master Chris Williams own “The Foundry” wines.

Importer: MMD, Oakland, California. Tel 510-587-2000.

2009 Meerlust ChardonnayMeerlust A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $23

Raised in 60% new oak with 11 months raised on its lees, the 2009 Chardonnay has a very tight bouquet, but there is fine definition here. The palate is well-defined with subtle lime, green apple and apricot flavours. The oak is well-integrated lending the taut finish an attractive creamy veneer. Drink now-2015.

Meerlust is one of Stellenbosch’s, perhaps South Africa’s most famous names, owned by the Myburgh family since 1757. Their 110-hectares of vine are focused upon classic French grape varieties and their flagship Rubicon, which debuted in 1980, has become one of the country’s international icons. All said, the current range of wines did not quite set the pulse racing. Whilst the Rubicon is certainly a good wine at a reasonable price, I feel that it might have been overtaken by some of its peers in recent years, perhaps including cellar master Chris Williams own “The Foundry” wines.

Importer: MMD, Oakland, California. Tel 510-587-2000.

2009 Miles Mossop KikaMiles Mossop A Chenin Blanc Sweet White Dessert wine from



http://www.meerlust.co.za/

http://www.milesmossopwines.com/

South Africa



Named after his third child, the 2009 Kika is Miles’s botrytized Chenin Blanc from 32-year old un-irrigated bush vines. It has wonderful intensity on the nose with scents of marmalade, orange zest, quince and yellow flowers all with impressive definition. The palate is very well balanced with good acidity (8.6g/l) that balances the 169g/l residual sugar. Lively and energetic in the glass with a beautiful crisp honeyed finish, I found Kika to be one of South Africa’s best sweet wines. There are just 2,000 bottles produced.

Stellenbosch winemaker Miles Mossop names his wines after his children, so his wife must be pleased that his range is not as wide as say, Graham Beck’s. My sample of the “Max” was not representative at the blind tasting, so no disrespect to his son, but I will endeavour to reassess it later. Meanwhile, there are two superb whites to recommended.


2009 Miles Mossop SaskiaMiles Mossop A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $36

The 2009 Saskia is a blend of 71% Chenin Blanc and 29% Viognier from 30-year old bush vines is Stellenbosch and Swartland. There is prominent creamy, vanilla-scented Viognier defining the nose that would benefit from more definition, yet there is impressive purity and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a waxy entry with notes of passion fruit and guava that segues into a well defined, plump, waxy-textured finish. This is a lovely, sensual wine. Drink now-2018.

Stellenbosch winemaker Miles Mossop names his wines after his children, so his wife must be pleased that his range is not as wide as say, Graham Beck’s. My sample of the “Max” was not representative at the blind tasting, so no disrespect to his son, but I will endeavour to reassess it later. Meanwhile, there are two superb whites to recommended.


2008 Morgenster MorgensterMorgenster A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa




http://www.milesmossopwines.com/

http://www.morgenster.co.za/


2017 $69

A blend of 36% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Franc, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 21% Petit Verdot aged in 300-liter French barrels for 18 months, the 2008 Proprietary Red has lifted blackberry, mulberry and mint on the nose with just a touch of sage and dried herbs. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins on the entry, a fleshy core of red cherry and wild strawberry with a supple, feminine finish that is very appealing. But I wager that it is not a wine for the long-haul like the 2006. Drink now-2017.

Although I am not totally convinced that Bordeaux blends are a strong hand for South Africa, Morgenster proved that they can produce a sublime combination of Old World meets New World Cabernet/Merlot based wines. The 300-year old estate in Somerset West used to be part of Vergelegen. In 1992 Giulio Bertrand purchased the estate, and the first vines were planted the following year. Since 1999, the busiest man in Bordeaux, Pierre Lurton, has consulted for Morgenster and together with winemaker Henry Kotze they impart a tangible Bordeaux sensibility to the wine. Their classically styled Proprietary Red is one of South Africa’s most eligible wines for aging and so I completed two small verticals that proved their wines can repay cellaring over a decade or more, commencing with their entry-level Lourens River Valley.





2022 $69

It gets better though. A blend of 32% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Franc and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon raised for 15 months in 300-liter French oak, the 2006 Proprietary Red has a vivacious, lifted nose of blackberry, raspberry, bay leaf, white pepper and a touch of Provencal herbs. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with fine, edgy tannins, ample freshness and great precision on the focused, cedar-tinged finish that is backward considering its age. The mineralite is very impressive from start to finish and this exquisite 2006 should age well over a decade. Drink 2012-2022.



2006 Morgenster Lourens River ValleyMorgenster





A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa


eRobertParker.comAug 2011 Neal Martin 90+ Drink 2014 -

2020 $33

The 2006 Lourens River Valley is a blend of 47% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot that is entirely matured in 300-liter French oak for 14 months. It has a very intense, earthy bouquet with dark berries, red currant and a touch of scorched earth, although it needs a little more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied and very tight with fine chalky tannins but needs just a little more weight towards the finish. This should improve with another 3-4 years in bottle. Drink 2014-2020.



2005 Morgenster Lourens River ValleyMorgenster A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2018 $33

The superb 2005 Lourens River Valley has a touch of Petit Verdot in the blend. My immediate impression upon nosing this wine was: Pauillac comes to Saint Emilion. The palate is very well knit with good acidity and firm tannins. It is dry and masculine on the entry, but the Cabernet Franc is very expressive towards the finish with touches of green bell pepper and dried herbs. Very refined and demonstrating good persistence, this is an excellent wine. Drink 2012-2018.

Although I am not totally convinced that Bordeaux blends are a strong hand for South Africa, Morgenster proved that they can produce a sublime combination of Old World meets New World Cabernet/Merlot based wines. The 300-year old estate in Somerset West used to be part of Vergelegen. In 1992 Giulio Bertrand purchased the estate, and the first vines were planted the following year. Since 1999, the busiest man in Bordeaux, Pierre Lurton, has consulted for Morgenster and together with winemaker Henry Kotze they impart a tangible Bordeaux sensibility to the wine. Their classically styled Proprietary Red is one of South Africa’s most eligible wines for aging and so I completed two small verticals that




proved their wines can repay cellaring over a decade or more, commencing with their entry-level Lourens River Valley.





2018 $69

The vivacious 2005 Proprietary Red is a blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, raised for 12 months in 75% new oak. It has a more introverted nose at present, but it is well defined with subtle mint and cedar aromas. The palate is crisp and fleshy with deft touches of red cherry and wild strawberry fruit, lingering beautifully in the mouth and there is a gentle but persistent grip on the finish. Drink 2012-2018.








2017 $33

The 2004 Lourens River Valley is matured in 300-liter French oak for 13 months and has a more opulent, fruit-driven bouquet with raspberry, crushed strawberry and a touch of leather intermingling with toffee aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good acidity and fresh ripe earthy fruit. It has a lively, spice-tinged, salty finish that is well defined and long in the mouth. Drinking perfectly now, this should continue to age well. Drink now-2017.






2016 $33

A blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc matured entirely in 300-liter French oak for 13 months, the 2003 Lourens River Valley offers more than the 2000. It has ripe raspberry, leather, animal fat, sage and rosemary on the lifted nose. The palate is well-defined on the entry with good substance on the fleshy dry finish with hints of cedar and cigar box. This is a lovely Right Bank-style wine. Drink now-2016.










2016 $69

A blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Cabernet Franc and 30% merlot raised for 13 months in 90% new French oak, the impressive 2003 Proprietary Red has a surprisingly youthful bouquet with vibrant red currant, raspberry, leather, cigar box and a touch of nutmeg. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, vibrant dark cherry and raspberry interlaced with white pepper and a touch of citrus peel. This leads to a fresh, grippy finish that shows good length with hints of bacon fat on the aftertaste. The 2003 testifies that a South African Bordeaux blend can age with class. Drink now-2016.



2010 Mullineux Family Wines Straw WineMullineux Family Wines A Chenin Blanc Sweet White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2025 $37

The 2010 Straw Wine is a pure Chenin Blanc dried under trees for three weeks and fermented in older barrels with 345gms residual sugar and 8.5% alcohol. It has a gorgeous nose of honeysuckle, orange blossom, apricot and a touch of quince with superb definition. The palate is thick and viscous on the entry, very pure and seductive with marmalade, quince, honey and citrus peel. It is a ravishing straw wine and completely irresistible. Drink now-2025+

For the sake of disclosure, readers should be aware that I have known Chris and Andre Mullineux-s




http://mullineuxwines.com/

financial backer long before they established Mullineux Family Wines. However, this Swartland producer is too important and their wines too good to pass over. Along with Eben Sadie, Chris has been at the forefront of the so-called -Swartland Revolution.- He adopts a minimalist approach to his wine with particular focus upon expression of terroir and this has resulted in the debut of two single vineyard releases in 2010, with the goal of translating the granite and schist soils of Swartland. This is Old World mantra applied to the New World to great effect. But let us begin with their entry-level range entitled -Kloof Street,- which is sourced from vineyards under long-term contracts.

2010 Mullineux Family Wines Granite SyrahMullineux Family Wines A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020

The 2010 Granite Syrah is the debut release from a new vineyard so it is not extracted from the regular Syrah cuvee. It is 100% whole bunch fruit from Paardeberg fermented in open top barrels. The nose is closed at the moment since it was bottled just the previous week, but coquettishly reveals bright red cherries and hints of crushed violets with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet entry, fleshy red-berried fruit mixed with white pepper and a touch of Provencal herbs, finishing on an Old World note that expresses great freshness, mineralite and precision. It has immense potential so leave this brooding Syrah for 3-4 years. Drink 2014-2020.

For the sake of disclosure, readers should be aware that I have known Chris and Andre Mullineux-s financial backer long before they established Mullineux Family Wines. However, this Swartland producer is too important and their wines too good to pass over. Along with Eben Sadie, Chris has been at the forefront of the so-called -Swartland Revolution.- He adopts a minimalist approach to his wine with particular focus upon expression of terroir and this has resulted in the debut of two single vineyard releases in 2010, with the goal of translating the granite and schist soils of Swartland. This is Old World mantra applied to the New World to great effect. But let us begin with their entry-level range entitled -Kloof Street,- which is sourced from vineyards under long-term contracts.

Importer: Kysela Pere & Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228



2010 Mullineux Family Wines Schist SyrahMullineux Family Wines A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020

Matured identically to the Granite Syrah, the 2010 Schist Syrah is sourced from Riebeek Kasteel from the Kloovenberg estate. It has a wonderful, exuberant bouquet with ripe black cherries, blueberry and crushed white flowers with great definition and flamboyance. The palate is full-bodied with succulent dark berries, black olive, cassis, minerals and a touch of white pepper. Plush and vivacious on the finish, this should repay several years cellaring but will drink earlier than the Granite Syrah. Only 1,000 bottles have been released. Drink 2014-2020.



2010 Mullineux Family Wines WhiteMullineux Family Wines A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $28

The 2010 White Blend consists of 80% Chenin Blanc, 10% Viognier and 10% Clairette fermented and aged in old French barrels for 12 months during which it goes through complete malo. It has an exquisite bouquet with notes of grapefruit, honeysuckle, melted candle wax and a hint of jasmine. The palate is well-balanced with a lovely, creamy textured entry. Racy from start to finish with just a dash of spice, dried honey, mango and orange zest and impressive persistence, this is a superb Chenin Blanc blend. Drink now-2018.







2009 Mullineux Family Wines SyrahMullineux Family Wines A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $33

Sourced from six vineyards to represent the different terroirs of Swartland, the 2009 Syrah was 20% whole cluster fruit and it was raised in 10% new oak for 12 months. The nose is taciturn at first but a few swirls of the glass soon wakes it up with enticing scents of dark berried fruit, a dash of white pepper and kalamata olive that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with plump blackberry, boysenberry and a touch of black plum with very fine acidity. This leads to a caressing, fleshy finish that belies the structure underneath. Classic in style, reserved but ambitious, the 2009 Syrah should repay several years aging. Drink 2013-2018.



2009 Mullineux Family Wines WhiteMullineux Family Wines A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $28

The 2009 White Blend consists of 61% Chenin Blanc, 21% Clairette Blanche and 16% Viognier and was matured in 225-liter barriques. The nose is reminiscent of a Roussillon Grenache Gris and is very well defined with hints of lanolin, dried peach, vanilla and a hint of fresh pear. The palate is very well defined with crisp acidity on the entry than waltzes in step with notes of fresh Conference pear, spice, dried lychee and hints of shaved ginger on the punchy finish. This is very focused and has great penetration, a wine that you will not forget. Just 675 cases produced. Drink 2011-2015.







2008 Mvemve Raats De CompostellaA Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2025 $60

A blend of 37.5% Cabernet Franc, 37.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec, 7.5% Petit Verdot and 7.5% Merlot aged for 24 months in 1/3 new oak barrels, the sensational 2008 De Compostella has a very pure, seductive nose that carries that oak discretely, displaying the intensity of precision of a top quality Claret. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, very fresh and seductive with a beautifully polished, seamless finish that is simply world-class. This sensual, consummate Bordeaux blend should age gracefully over a decade. Bravo! Drink 2014-2025.

Mvemve Raats is a joint venture inaugurated in 2004 between Bruwer Raats and Mzokhona Mvemve. I must confess that adrenalin began rushing as I tasted two vintages of their stunning Bordeaux blend: De Compostella. I began to wonder why I spent two weeks down in Bordeaux assessing self-aggrandizing Cabernets?


2007 Mvemve Raats De CompostellaA Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa




2022 $60

The 2007 De Compostella is a blend of 32% Cabernet Franc, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Malbec, 16% Petit Verdot and 8% Merlot aged for 24 months in 1/3 new oak barrels. It has a very sensual, almost understated bouquet that unfurls with cassis, raspberry, vanilla and dark plums. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and is much more refined than I anticipated with ebullient sweet cherry fruits on the beautifully focused finish. This is a very elegant yet intense wine that fully justifies its price tag. Drink 2014-2022+

Mvemve Raats is a joint venture inaugurated in 2004 between Bruwer Raats and Mzokhona Mvemve. I must confess that adrenalin began rushing as I tasted two vintages of their stunning Bordeaux blend: De Compostella. I began to wonder why I spent two weeks down in Bordeaux assessing self-aggrandizing Cabernets?


2010 Nabygelegen Lady AnnaNabygelegen A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



I would seek out their standout 2010 Lady Anna: a top-notch blend of Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. They combine beautifully on the precise nose with chalk dust, and touches of oyster shell mingling with pink grapefruit. The palate is fresh, vibrant, subtle and surfeit with freshness. Hints of pink grapefruit and apricot furnish the finish with that touch of shellfish coming through once again. Superb!

Around half of Nabygelegen-s 35-hectares in the Bovlei Valley in Wellington are under vine, with the oldest blocks belonging to plots of 50-year old Chenin Blanc.

No US importer.

2010 Nederburg Bin D215 Sauvignon BlancNederburg A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa




http://www.nabygelegen.co.za/

http://www.nederburg.co.za/


The 2010 Private Bin D215 Sauvignon Blanc has a complex bouquet of nectarine, grass clippings, a touch of gooseberry and a slight oxidative tincture. The palate is crisp on the entry with attractive pithy fruits, nectarine, dried apricot and a touch of hazelnut. This segues into a crisp finish reminiscent of a Chenin Blanc as much as a Sauvignon. I am intrigued how this will show in one year’s time.

Located just outside the historic village of Paarl with a breathtaking mountainous vista behind me, I was looking forward to tasting the portfolio of Nederburg, the Platter guide’s “Winery of the Year” for 2011. However, whilst the estate is perfectly kitted out for the tourists that flock to the tasting room, I departed with the impression that there were too many “standard” wines that felt manufactured in the winery, wines content to please the undemanding masses. There is nothing wrong with that, except other South African wineries are doing it with more style. That is a shame because winemaker Wilhelm Pienaar spoke a lot of sense, and I speculate is a man with a great deal of underused talent.

Importer: Dreyfuss Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

2007 Neils Verburg (Aka Luddite) ShirazNeils Verburg (Aka Luddite) A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $65

The aromatics on the 2007 Shiraz remain a little muted despite rigorous coaxing, though eventually one can eke out blackberry and boysenberry notes. However, the palate is well balanced with velvety, fleshy tannins and succulent red currant and cranberry fruit. One expects the finish to be powerful and overbearing. On the contrary, it is composed and refined, attesting to some competent winemaking. I suggest cellaring this away for a couple of years. Drink 2013-2018+

Having made wine in places as diverse as Barsac, Western Australia and Chile, then having worked at Beaumont Wines, winemaker Niels Verberg established Luddite Wines in 1999 just outside the Bot River in Walker Bay. Those in Europe will recognize the wines as “Luddite” though in the USA they are branded under the “Neils Verberg” name. He focuses solely upon Shiraz sourced from his 5.5-hectares of vine, and they are well worth seeking out.


2006 Neils Verburg (Aka Luddite) ShirazNeils Verburg (Aka Luddite) A Syrah Dry Red Table wine from



http://www.luddite.co.za/

http://www.luddite.co.za/

South Africa



2018 $65

There is a tincture of brett on the nose of the bullish 2006 Shiraz, though it is nothing to get worried about. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, vibrant red-berried fruit and a pure, pleasing, fleshy finish that caresses the mouth. It is not quite as structured as the 2007 but represents a well-made Shiraz nonetheless. Drink now-2018

Having made wine in places as diverse as Barsac, Western Australia and Chile, then having worked at Beaumont Wines, winemaker Niels Verberg established Luddite Wines in 1999 just outside the Bot River in Walker Bay. Those in Europe will recognize the wines as “Luddite” though in the USA they are branded under the “Neils Verberg” name. He focuses solely upon Shiraz sourced from his 5.5-hectares of vine, and they are well worth seeking out.


2009 Newton Johnson Pinot Noir Hemel en Aarde ValleyNewton Johnson A Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine fromHemel-En-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay, South Africa



2018 $28

The 2009 Pinot Noir was raised entirely in barriques from Burgundy cooperages and raised in 28% new oak. It has superb intensity on the nose with wild strawberry, Morello, crushed flowers and a touch of citrus lemon, a real doppelganger for Burgundy. The palate is well balanced with crisp, fleshy red berry fruit with crisp, taut acidity and a feminine silky smooth finish. This is how Pinot Noir should be: vibrant and life affirming! Superb. Drink now-2018.

I have long been a fan of Gordon Newton Johnson’s wines from the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. His is one of South Africa’s finest Pinot Noirs plus his Chardonnay is packed full of flavour for the price.

Importer: The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA. Tel 804-752-3670.

2009 Newton Johnson ChardonnayNewton Johnson A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



http://www.newtonjohnson.com/

http://www.newtonjohnson.com/



2015 $15

The 2009 Chardonnay was raised in 25% new oak, and it has a beautifully defined bouquet of lime flower, lemon peel, almonds and custard creme. The palate is pure and crisp, perhaps a little reliant on some buttery oak, but there is certainly some lovely fruit underneath with a long, coconut and almond-tinged finish. This impressive Hemel-en-Aarde Chardonnay that represents outstanding value. Drink now-2015.

I have long been a fan of Gordon Newton Johnson’s wines from the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. His is one of South Africa’s finest Pinot Noirs plus his Chardonnay is packed full of flavour for the price.

Importer: The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA. Tel 804-752-3670.

2008 Oak Valley Wines Semillon / Sauvignon BlancOak Valley Wines A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

The 2008 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon is a standout wine. This blend of 40% Semillon and 60% Sauvignon Blanc, which was naturally fermented in barrel, offers beeswax and dried honey on the nose, the Semillon more dominant than the Sauvignon Blanc. The palate is well balanced with touches of nutmeg, spice and apricot on the entry, good acidity and an attractive lanolin-tinged finish. Drink now-2016.

Oak Valley Wines is sourced from 48 hectares of vineyard located in the huge 1,786-hectare Oak Valley Estate in Elgin. Their first vintage was in 2003, eight years after the first vines were planted and they are presently vinified in the cellars of Paul Cluver. Their real strength lies in their whites, their Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon expressing the cool Elgin climate with style.

No US importer.

2010 Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling Noble Late HarvestPaul Cluver



http://www.oakvalley.co.za/

http://www.cluver.com/

A Riesling Sweet White Dessert wine fromElgin, South Africa



Carrying 156 gms/l residual, the 2010 Noble Late Harvest Riesling has an attractive honeyed bouquet with touches of marmalade, orange essence and a hint of petrol. The palate is well balanced with a viscous entry, very good weight in the mouth with clean pure, vibrant German Beerenauslese finish that handles that sweetness with style.

Neurosurgeon Dr. Paul Cluver owns the eponymous 2,500-hectare estate in Elgin, of which 90-hectares are under vine. It is a family affair. Winemaker Andreas Burger (recently elected to the prestigious Cape Winemakers Guild) is married to daughter and financial director, Inge Cluver. Their portfolio focuses on classic varieties, in particular a splendid Chardonnay and commendable Pinot Noir from Burgundy clones.

Importer: World Premier Wines, Mooresville, NC. Tel 704-360-0962

2009 Paul Cluver ChardonnayPaul Cluver A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromElgin, South Africa



2017 $22

In a different league is Cluver’s superb 2009 Chardonnay that is wild fermented in French oak (35% new) and raised on its gross lees for nine months. The nose is well defined with some fine leesy aromas, whilst the palate is taut and vibrant with a lovely creamy finish that maintains freshness and poise. Drink now-2017.

Neurosurgeon Dr. Paul Cluver owns the eponymous 2,500-hectare estate in Elgin, of which 90-hectares are under vine. It is a family affair. Winemaker Andreas Burger (recently elected to the prestigious Cape Winemakers Guild) is married to daughter and financial director, Inge Cluver. Their portfolio focuses on classic varieties, in particular a splendid Chardonnay and commendable Pinot Noir from Burgundy clones.

Importer: World Premier Wines, Mooresville, NC. Tel 704-360-0962.

2010 Quando Sauvignon Blanc



http://www.cluver.com/

Quando A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2011

The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc has a delightful nose of subtle grassy notes complemented by greengage and lime leaf. The palate is very well balanced with fine acidity, good depth and a very crisp but long green apple finish. Drink now.

Quando is located between Robertson and Bonnievale. Owned by the Fanus and Martin Bruwer family, I thought their Sauvignon Blanc was splendid.

2009 Quoin Rock Cape Agulhas Sauvignon BlancQuoin Rock A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015

The 2009 Cape Agulhas Sauvignon Blanc has great freshness and precision on the mineral-rich bouquet with subtle notes of apple-blossom and lime. The palate is supremely well balanced with crisp citrus fruit and a subtle white peach note towards its long finish. Drink now-2015.

Quoin Rock built a formidable reputation under winemaker Carl van der Merwe before he left to join De Morgenzon. His legacy is two superb whites and commendable reds. Apparently his assistant winemaker will be taking the reins, although there is a black cloud on the horizon apropos a continuing battle between its Glaswegian owner and the tax revenue. The latest I have heard is that Quoin Rock is under liquidation although their wines are still being sold.

Importer: until recently Protea Wine Imports (Baltimore) – older vintages still available.



http://www.quando.co.za/

http://www.quoinrock.co.za/

2007 Quoin Rock OculusQuoin Rock A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2014

The outstanding 2007 Oculus is a blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Viognier, lees aged in oak over 12 months. It sports a very engaging, aromatic nose of white peach, pear skin with a hint of passion fruit, and perhaps more Viognier than Sauvignon. The palate is full in the mouth with a vibrant spicy entry of melon, apricot and orange peel, very good acidity and superb concentration on the honeyed finish. Drink now-2014.

Quoin Rock built a formidable reputation under winemaker Carl van der Merwe before he left to join De Morgenzon. His legacy is two superb whites and commendable reds. Apparently his assistant winemaker will be taking the reins, although there is a black cloud on the horizon apropos a continuing battle between its Glaswegian owner and the tax revenue. The latest I have heard is that Quoin Rock is under liquidation although their wines are still being sold.

Importer: until recently Protea Wine Imports (Baltimore) – older vintages still available.

2009 Raats Cabernet FrancRaats A Cabernet Franc Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $30

The impressive 2009 Cabernet Franc was aged in 25% new oak for 18 months and shows very fine delineation on the nose, capturing its herbaceous, peppery character without any sense of under-ripeness. The palate is full-bodied with a firm grip with notes of green bell pepper, a touch of spice and small dark berries. This leads to a well-defined fresh finish that epitomizes “New World Loire.” It deserves a small round of applause the astute handling of this tricky variety! Drink 2013-2018.

”New World specialists of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc” is the banner headline for Stellenbosch producer Raats that was established by brothers Bruwer and Jasper Raats. Bruwer bought out his sibling and has bought vineyards from Stellenbosch, Paarl, Durbanville Hills and the Paardeberg, seeking older vines above 250m sea-level. Theirs is a small portfolio that bears out Bruwer’s dedication to winnow better terroirs. See also his collaboration with Mzokhona Mvemve: “Mvemve Raats.”



http://www.quoinrock.co.za/

http://www.raats.co.za/

2009 Raats Chenin BlancRaats A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $23

One-quarter of the 2009 Chenin Blanc is fermented in 300-liter French oak and that shows within a lovely, ripe, melon and grapefruit bouquet with touches of pressed white flower and jasmine. The palate is well balanced on the entry with a hint of bell pepper and citrus (lemon). Nicely balanced with a touch of dried apricot, nectarine and spice towards the crisp finish, this fine Chenin Blanc brims with character and charm. Drink now-2016.

”New World specialists of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc” is the banner headline for Stellenbosch producer Raats that was established by brothers Bruwer and Jasper Raats. Bruwer bought out his sibling and has bought vineyards from Stellenbosch, Paarl, Durbanville Hills and the Paardeberg, seeking older vines above 250m sea-level. Theirs is a small portfolio that bears out Bruwer’s dedication to winnow better terroirs. See also his collaboration with Mzokhona Mvemve: “Mvemve Raats.”


2007 Remhoogte Estate Bonne NouvelleRemhoogte Estate A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

The 2007 Bonne Nouvelle has an opulent bouquet with macerated black cherries, blueberry and creme de cassis with just a slight reductive note that blows off with aeration. The palate is soft and sensual on the entry with velvety tannins. There is an attractive purity here, whilst the freshness and harmony on the lively finish makes this an alluring wine. The 2007 is the most impressive release thus far. Drink 2012-2018.

Bonne Nouvelle is the result of the partnership between Murray Boustred and Michel Rolland. The vineyard stands at the foot of the stony, steep incline on the Simonsberg Mountain located on the Remhoogte Wine Estate. There are 30-hectares under vine and “Bonne Nouvelle” represents a winery selection that is raised for 12 to 15-months in 50% new French oak. It is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage, though the latter has been reduced in recent vintages from 20% to between 5 and 10%. I tasted all vintages to date with Thierry Harberer, Michel’s right-hand man. I had heard that the collaboration had come to an end. Thierry informed me that the 2005 vintage is being imported to the US



http://www.raats.co.za/

http://www.remhoogte.co.za/

at the moment and that this will be followed by the 2006 and 2007. Depending upon the success of those wines they will review and see whether Bonne Nouvelle will continue.




2018

The 2006 Bonne Nouvelle was the first to be fermented in 500-liter open-top barrels. It has a ripe, well-defined bouquet with macerated dark cherries, licorice, a touch of soy and a hint of mint. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, a little spicier than previous vintages with touches of soy and bacon fat towards the finish. This is worth seeking out after the stocks of 2005 expire. Drink 2012-2018.

Bonne Nouvelle is the result of the partnership between Murray Boustred and Michel Rolland. The vineyard stands at the foot of the stony, steep incline on the Simonsberg Mountain located on the Remhoogte Wine Estate. There are 30-hectares under vine and “Bonne Nouvelle” represents a winery selection that is raised for 12 to 15-months in 50% new French oak. It is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage, though the latter has been reduced in recent vintages from 20% to between 5 and 10%. I tasted all vintages to date with Thierry Harberer, Michel’s right-hand man. I had heard that the collaboration had come to an end. Thierry informed me that the 2005 vintage is being imported to the US at the moment and that this will be followed by the 2006 and 2007. Depending upon the success of those wines they will review and see whether Bonne Nouvelle will continue.

Importer: Domain Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799.




2015 $37

The 2005 Bonne Nouvelle was the first overseen by Michel’s wingman, Thierry Harberer. It has impressive precision on the nose with dark cherries, dark chocolate and a touch of scorched earth. The palate is soft and rounded on the entry, very well balanced, caressing in the mouth with a plush, cocoa-tinged finish that slips down the throat beautifully. Drink now-2015.

Bonne Nouvelle is the result of the partnership between Murray Boustred and Michel Rolland. The vineyard stands at the foot of the stony, steep incline on the Simonsberg Mountain located on the Remhoogte Wine Estate. There are 30-hectares under vine and “Bonne Nouvelle” represents a winery





selection that is raised for 12 to 15-months in 50% new French oak. It is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage, though the latter has been reduced in recent vintages from 20% to between 5 and 10%. I tasted all vintages to date with Thierry Harberer, Michel’s right-hand man. I had heard that the collaboration had come to an end. Thierry informed me that the 2005 vintage is being imported to the US at the moment and that this will be followed by the 2006 and 2007. Depending upon the success of those wines they will review and see whether Bonne Nouvelle will continue.

Importer: Domain Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799.

2010 Reyneke PinotageReyneke A Pinotage Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $35

The 2010 Pinotage is 50% whole bunch pressed with a carbonic maceration from the top part of the vat, with no pump-overs and matured in Nomblot concrete fermenters. It has a fragrant bouquet of dark plum, violet and cherry liqueur. The palate is well balanced with good tension and is fresh and natural towards the wild berry, plum and licorice finish. It has superb tension and vivacity. If only Pinotages were like this! Drink now-2018.

I was struck by Rudiger Gretschel, winemaker for Reyneke, located in the Polkadraai Hills of Stellenbosch. He expressed a very European outlook to winemaking and at times, contrary views to his fellow South African winemakers. As the country’s only certified biodynamic producer he seemed to have a unique take on viticulture and as it transpired, Reyneke’s wines are cerebral and intellectual, surfeit in character and individuality.

Importer: Indigo Wine Group, Florida, USA. Tel 941-483-1816.

2010 Reyneke Chenin Blanc

Reyneke A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $35

Raised in old oak casks from 70-year old vines, the outstanding 2010 Chenin Blanc has impressive fruit intensity beneath the sulphur (it was bottled one week before.) The palate is well balanced with a slightly honeyed texture with hints of honeycomb, dried orange peel, lanolin and spice. This a very complex, Old World Chenin Blanc that offers an intellectual challenge. Drink 2012-2020.

I was struck by Rudiger Gretschel, winemaker for Reyneke, located in the Polkadraai Hills of Stellenbosch. He expressed a very European outlook to winemaking and at times, contrary views to his fellow South African winemakers. As the country’s only certified biodynamic producer he seemed to have a unique take on viticulture and as it transpired, Reyneke’s wines are cerebral and intellectual, surfeit in



http://www.reynekewines.co.za/


character and individuality.


2010 Reyneke Sauvignon BlancReyneke A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $28

Whole-bunch and fermented in old casks, the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc is a little muted on the nose at first: subtle grassy aromas, a touch of crushed stone with hints of beeswax and wax resin. The palate is very natural with succinct mineral and waxy notes with touches of pear skin and honeysuckle on the phenolic finish. This is a complex, engaging Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now-2015.



2009 Reyneke CapstoneReyneke A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $28

A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Shiraz and 10% Merlot, the outstanding 2009 Capstone (N.B. labelled “Cornerstone” in South Africa) has a fresh, well-defined bouquet with wild berries, dark cherry, mint and a touch of wild heather. The palate is very well balanced with a slight garrigue character emanating from the Shiraz on the entry. The Capstone has fine but sturdy tannins and is very focused and intense. However the finish is more composed and natural with a rustic edge. This is an engaging red blend that is full of character. Drink 2012-2020+







2009 Reyneke Reserve WhiteReyneke A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $50

Sourced from the best parcels within the three plots of Sauvignon Blanc and raised in Allier new oak, the 2009 Reserve White has a very refined bouquet with well-integrated new oak with hints of bruised apple, limestone, a touch of citrus peel. The palate is very well balanced with very pure fruit: subtle notes of almond, walnut and a hint of spice leading to a very composed finish. This is a wonderful Sauvignon with superb persistence. Drink 2012-2018.



2008 Reyneke Reserve RedReyneke A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2019 $75

A blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% whole bunch ferments crushed by foot, aged in 225-casks with 80% new oak for 22 months, the 2008 Reserve Red has an engaging bouquet that is so fresh and vibrant. Red berries soar from the glass with beautifully integrated, barely noticeable





oak. The palate is full-bodied with very fine, edgy seamless tannins with a gentle grip on the dark berry, slightly gamey finish. Drinking beautifully now, this should age well for several years. Drink 2012-2019.



2009 Rietvallei Classic Cabernet SauvignonRietvallei A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $18

The 2009 Classic Cabernet Sauvignon from Robertson was matured for 12 months using 20% French oak. Although there is a touch of herbaceousness on the nose, do not let that put you off because the palate is very well balanced with clean ripe red berries and cedar. It is very harmonious and caressing in the mouth, rendering this a polished Cabernet with commercial appeal. Drink now-2016.

Importer: Vineyard Varieties, Bluefield, VA

2007 Rijk's The MasterRijk's A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $82

The 2007 The Master is a blend of 50% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 13% Pinotage and 8% Carignan plus a touch of Viognier and Tinta Amarela, all grown on the estate. The wine was then matured for 20 months



http://www.rietvallei.co.za/

http://www.rijks.co.za/

in 300-liter oak barrels of which 40% is new. It has ripe mulberry, cranberry, black olive, hickory and fresh prune aromas on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, well-balanced with plush, plumy black fruit, crushed raspberry and a touch of white pepper. That leads to a refined finish that could do with a little more persistence, but it retains a degree of elegance. Drink now-2018.

Located in Tulbagh, the 136-hectares Rijk’s Farm Estate was founded by Neville Dorrington. The first 14-hectares of vine were planted in 1997 plus another 12-hectares the following year, yielding their first vintage in 2000. They have a consistent range of wines although at times I felt that there was too much emphasis upon oak aging.

Importer: The Artisan Collection, Brooklyn, NY, Tel 718-596-0722.

2007 Rijk's Estate SyrahRijk's A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2019 $82

Sourced from the Rijk’s Estate, matured for 20 months in 300-liter oak barrels (40% new) the 2007 Estate Syrah has a slightly over-ripe plum, prune and fig-tinged bouquet with good definition. Left in the glass there are scents of black olives beginning to emerge. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy tannins, vibrant red-berried fruits and a subtle touch of white pepper towards the Northern Rhone-like finish. This is a very fine Syrah that should give pleasure over the next 6-8 years.



2007 Rijk's Private Cellar Reserve PinotageRijk's A Pinotage Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $75





The 2007 Private Cellar Reserve Pinotage is a special winery selection of ten barrels in the winery that are matured for 20 months in 60% new oak. It has a ripe rounded plum, banana skin and violet-tinged bouquet with good definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, great purity and femininity with a caressing finish of black cherries and dark plum. This is a very good example of South African Pinotage. Drink now-2015.



2008 Rust en Vrede StellenboschRust en Vrede A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



The 2008 Estate is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Shiraz and 10% Merlot and raised in 300-liter French and American oak for 23 months. It has a tightly wound mulberry, blackberry and dark plum-scented bouquet with a touch of Provencal herbs. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, robust tannins and very good balance. It is a powerful, extrovert red with firm grip, but maintains freshness and delineation all the way through to the finish.

Ruste En Vrede is one of South Africa’s iconic estates. Although it has been a resident in Stellenbosch for 315 years, it is only in the last 32-years that winemaking has been pursued. Jean Engelbrecht made the wine in the late 1970’s and then appointed Kevin Arnold and Louis Strydom as cellar masters.


2008 Rustenberg SyrahRustenberg A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018



http://www.rustenvrede.com/

http://www.rustenberg.co.za/%20

The 2008 Syrah has a lifted plum and boysenberry scented bouquet with touches of blueberry and cassis fruit developing with aeration. The palate is full-bodied with succulent ripe black fruit, bilberry, black olive and cassis with a dash of white pepper towards the finish. Nicely balanced with ample freshness and vitality on the finish, this is an impressive, sinewy Syrah that should age nicely over 4-5 years. Drink now-2018.

Rustenberg is one of South Africa’s oldest estates with a history dating back to 1682, and by 1781 it was producing 3,000 cases of wine. The estate was divided and fell into decline towards the late 19th century but it was brought back to life by John X. Merriman. In 1941 it was acquired by Peter and Pamela Barlow and their son Simon has run Rustenberg since 1987. They offer a strong, consistent portfolio of red and white wines based on classic varieties. Their flagship wines have gained international recognition and are built to last, so do not be afraid to cellar them for several years or more.


2008 Rustenberg John X MerrimanRustenberg A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2020 $18-$20

The iconic 2008 John X. Merriman is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot plus a little Cabernet Franc and Malbec that was raised in 35% new oak French barrels for 21 months. It has a very ripe bouquet of blackberry, plum and a touch of tobacco that is perhaps a little disjointed and will need time to integrate. The palate is full-bodied with firm, dry, grippy tannins and a lot of tobacco-tinged black fruit. It expresses commendable definition and freshness with a nice touch of austerity that should see it age over 7-10 years with ease. Drink 2013-2020.



2008 Rustenberg Chardonnay Five SoldiersRustenberg A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2018 $38





The excellent 2008 Five Soldiers Chardonnay is whole bunch pressed and undergoes complete malolactic. It has a well-defined bouquet with very well-integrated new oak (70% new) that dovetails into a very well balanced, vanilla-tinged palate with good acidity and a focused, apricot and shaved ginger-tinged finish. This is a Chardonnay with panache. Drink now-2018.



2007 Rustenberg Peter BarlowRustenberg A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2022 $32-$41

The flagship 2007 Peter Barlow is a pure Cabernet Sauvignon from vines planted in 1990. The wine was raised in 64% new oak, the remainder 2nd and 3rd fill. It has an intriguing bouquet of roasted herbs, tobacco and a touch of dark chocolate and good definition. The palate is very well balanced with ripe plum and black currant on the entry. The black fruit is interlaced with dried herbs and fresh tobacco with firm and grippy tannins. It displays impressive weight towards the bold, structured finish and this 2007 is only just beginning to show what it can do. Drink 2014-2022.


2009 Sadie Family ColumellaSadie Family A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa


eRobertParker.com Neal Martin 94 Drink 2014 - $85




http://www.europeancellars.com/Southafrica/Columella%20Property%20Sheet.pdf

Aug 2011 2025

The2009 Columella is a blend of 75% Syrah, 23% Mourvedre and 2% Grenache, aged in two 45-hectolire oval casks during the second year instead of French barriques. Bottled six weeks prior to tasting it has a slightly lower alcohol level than the 2008. It is extremely tight on the nose due to a touch of bottle shock. Yet there is patently very fine purity and mineral expression here as it develops a slight brine/seaweed accent that dissipates with aeration. The palate is very harmonious on the entry with mineral-rich dark berried fruits mixed with hints of cassis and dark plum. Very harmonious and almost understated towards the finish, the 2009 should blossom over the next 12 months into a cerebral wine that any Rhone fanatic should see out. Drink 2014-2025.

Only the wineries of great winemakers are worth vandalizing. This is exactly what happened to Eben Sadie in Priorat recently. Jealous neighbours? Probably. Rather, they should have sat down with him and learnt how to make world-class wine. Eben is the outspoken, peripatetic, terroir-obsessed winemaker who has been instrumental in putting Swartland on the map. He produces a small portfolio of comparatively expensive, but highly coveted wines based on Rhone varieties sourced from his seemingly never-ending search for pockets of old bush vine and unique terroirs. These are cerebral wines built to age. My only criticism is that older vintages have been rather brawny and alcoholic, so I was pleased to hear courtesy of part-time vineyard manager, Brian MacRobert, that Eben is seeking to reduce alcohol in the future. Eben was actually in London when I visited and it was Brian who took me through the wines as well as barrel selections for the 2010 vintage. He also produces his own label “Tobias,” which was impressive, so keep an eye out for his name in the future.

Importer: A&B Imports, 660 South Lucile Street, Seattle, WA 98108-2640, United States. Tel 206-332-0320.

2009 Sadie Family Sequillo SwartlandSadie Family A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSwartland, South Africa



2020 $25

The 2009 Red Blend used to contain more Shiraz but I was told that Eben is moving towards Grenache and Mourvedre and maturing in older, larger vessels. The nose is very intense with dark berries, white pepper, crushed violet and a touch of cassis all with very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with sturdy tannins matched with a lot of freshness and vitality. Quite linear at the moment but sure to broaden out with age, the Sequillo has such purity and mineralite that it is impossible to resist. This is an outstanding Rhone-inspired wine that should age beautifully. Drink 2013-2020.

Eben Sadie of Sadie Family Wines owns Sequillo Cellars but readers should be aware that it is a separate winery and the grapes are from a different source. The main difference is that there is not quite the same meticulous level of bunch sorting as practiced at Sadie Family, but that is reflected in their price and the wines represent exceptional value.


2009 Sadie Family Palladius



Sadie Family A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $70

Fermented in a combination of 500-liter barrels, foudres and cement, the 2009 Palladius is a blend of (deep breath) old Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Verdelho, Clairette and Palomino aged for two years in barrel. It has a crystalline bouquet with scents of dried honey, beeswax, hazelnut, broom and a faint touch of pinecone. The palate is very well balanced with good acidity and precision; notes of walnut, honeysuckle, orange zest and a little spice. It displays impressive persistence in the mouth and you find yourself contemplating this wine long after you have swallowed it, each sip slightly different to the last. Sublime. Drink now-2020.



2008 Sadie Family ColumellaSadie Family A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa






2020 $85

The 2008 Columella is a Shiraz based blend with a little Mourvedre grown on mainly granite soils and aged for two years in barrels. It has a very distinct bouquet with vibrant, well defined, wild dark berried fruit intermingling with subtle aromas of dark plum, blackberry leaf and a touch of cassis all with great precision. The palate is medium-bodied with fine but sturdy tannins, supremely well balanced with superb acidity and expression, finishing with great mineralite on the finish that has slight blur of alcohol. Drink 2013-2020.



2007 Saronsberg Cellar SeismicSaronsberg Cellar A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $59

The 2007 Seismic is a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon 12% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec and was raised for 20 months entirely in new 300-liter Allier oak barrels. It has a wonderful, almost dusky bouquet with brambly black fruit and fine definition. The oak is conspicuous yet it is well integrated. The palate has sweet ripe plum on the entry mingling with blackberry and damson fruit. Very fine tannins with a crisp and edgy finish, this can only be described as?seismic! Drink now-2020.

The wines from Saronsberg Cellar showed extremely well during the blind tasting at the Old Mutual Show. Located in Tulbagh, Saronsberg was established when Nick van Huyssten purchased a fruit farm in 2002. Despite much of the estate and part of the vineyard being destroyed by fire two months later, the vineyard was replanted and the first vintage debuted in January 2004 with Dewaldt Heyns installed as head winemaker.

Importer: New England Wine & Spirits, Inc. 420 Frontage Road, Unit #3, West Haven, CT 06516. Tel 203-932-6397

2010 Sequillo Cellars White BlendSequillo Cellars



http://www.saronsberg.com/

http://www.sequillo.com/

A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $25

The 2010 White Blend is a Chenin Blanc-based blend complemented by Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne raised for one year in old 225-liter Burgundy barrels with minimal use of sulphur. The nose is well defined and very natural with scents of honeycomb, wax resin and dried fruits. The palate is well balanced with good acidity, and vibrant flavours of walnut and bitter lemon leading to a very focused, fresh finish. Drink now-2017.

Eben Sadie of Sadie Family Wines owns Sequillo Cellars but readers should be aware that it is a separate winery and the grapes are from a different source. The main difference is that there is not quite the same meticulous level of bunch sorting as practiced at Sadie Family, but that is reflected in their price and the wines represent exceptional value.


2010 Sijnn White BlendA Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $36

A step up is the excellent 2010 White Blend that consists of 57% Chenin Blanc and the rest Viognier. It has a more expressive nose than the previous vintage with honeysuckle and jasmine aromas, the palate well balanced with a pure honeyed entry, and very good weight on the apricot and nectarine infused, waxy finish. This is a lovely Rhone-style white that should age well. Drink 2013-2020.

Sijnn is a new project from an old ostrich and grain farm located at the mouth of the Breede River. The plantings tend towards Mediterranean (Syrah, Mourvedre, Touriga Nacional, Chenin Blanc and Viognier amongst others.) The fruit is presently vinified at De Trafford in Stellenbosch, though there are plans to construct a local winery.


2009 Simonsig ChardonnaySimonsig A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



http://www.simonsig.co.za/



2020 $20

With 70% of the blend raised in 2nd fill French oak barrels, the 2009 Chardonnay has a beautifully defined, Burgundian bouquet with very subtle new oak. There is great aromatic precision with scents of bruised apple, yellow plum and crushed stone. The palate is supremely well balanced and packed full of flavour, yet maintains tension from start to finish, with hints of hazelnut and smoke. One of South Africa’s finest Chardonnay wines should drink well over the next decade. Drink now-2020.

Taking its name from the mountain, this Stellenbosch stalwart can trace its roots back to 1688 when Jacques Malan founded the 210-hectare estate. The decomposed granite and shale soils are occupied by classic French varieties and of course, Pinotage, and the microclimate is moderated both by the Atlantic breezes and by altitude, since the highest vineyards are 260m above sea level. Frans Malan was an innovative wine producer, introducing South Africa’s first Methode Cap Classique in the 1970’s. Generally, I was impressed far more by the whites (including a thrilling Chardonnay and a brilliant Chenin Blanc) than the reds, which seemed to lack the same breeding and class.

Importer: Quintessential LLC, New York, NY. Tel 646-484-6411

2009 Simonsig Chenin Avec CheneSimonsig A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $35

As its title suggests, the 2009 Chenin Avec Chene is aged in 400-liter French oak barrels for 11 months of which one-third are new. The nose shows great varietal character with wet wool, dried honey and a touch of lanolin with fine delineation. The palate is very well balanced, polished by that new oak (although personally I might have used a little less.) Nevertheless it has an irresistible finish of honeycomb, pear and white peach that is entrancing. Drink now-2017.






2007 Simonsig Merindol SyrahSimonsig A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $37

The single vineyard 2007 Merindol Syrah was aged entirely in new oak for 18 months. It has a ripe, gamey bouquet that is smudged at first but gains clarity with aeration, offering ripe red currant, dark plum, fig and a touch of saddle-leather. The palate is very smooth and sexy on the entry with seamless tannins. However the prominent new oak obscures a sense of personality on the finish that is technically correct but does not have much to say. As a consequence it is enjoyable rather than memorable. Drink now-2017.



2009 Southern Right Pinotage Hemel en Aarde ValleySouthern Right A Pinotage Dry Red Table wine fromHemel-En-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay, South Africa



The excellent 2009 Pinotage has a well-defined, attractive nose of blackberry, dark plum and some




http://www.southernwines.com/vineyard.cfm?preview=523

reductive tertiary aromas that dissipate with aeration. The palate has a sweet core of red berry fruit on the entry with the ebullience of an Italian Barbera. It has very good definition and a lovely fresh citrus finish. Excellent.

Southern Right was introduced by Anthony Hamilton of Hamilton Russell in Hemel-en-Aarde in 1994 with the goal of creating top quality cool-climate Pinotage. When the neighbouring 448-hectare estate on the western flank of Hamilton Russell came up for sale in 2005, Hamilton bought the property with business partners and gave Southern Right a permanent home.


2009 Spice Route ChakalakaSpice Route A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



A blend of 37% Syrah, 22% Mourvedre, 18% Carignan, 10% Petite Sirah, 10% Grenache and 4% Tannat raised in 25% new oak, the 2009 Chakalaka has a fresh bouquet with vibrant dark berried fruits, wild hedgerow and a touch of blueberry. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very good acidity and a vivacious finish of vibrant red fruits that beg another sip. For $20.00 this is great value.

Having established Fairview in Paarl, Charles Back founded the Spice Route Wine Company back in 1997 after acquiring a farm in Malmesbury. His aim was to source fruit that had been traditionally sold to co-ops and exploit the untapped potential of the region. The company expanded into Darling in 2005 to source Sauvignon Blanc from its cool surrounding hills, which has since been complemented by Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Semillon. This was a good range of wines, especially the Chakalaka considering the price point, although I felt that the flagship Malabar was trying too hard to make an impression.

Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL.

2008 Spier Creative Block 5Spier A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $20



http://www.fairview.co.za/index.php?page_id=44

http://www.winecorp.co.za/winecorp/home/index.jsp

A Bordeaux blend based on 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and raised for 18 months in French oak barrels, the 2008 Creative Block 5 has vivacious aromas of black currant, cassis and dark plum on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, vibrant red-berries, cedar and mint that leads to a crisp, well-crafted and downright refreshing finish. Drink 2012-2017.

Overlooking the Helderberg Mountains, this Stellenbosch producer was the first to receive certification from the Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association and they are also members of the Biodiversity & Wine Initiative. Winemakers Frans Smit, Jacques Erasmus (whites) and Johan Jordan (reds) oversee a wide portfolio of wines that range from commendable ten-dollar entry-level varietals up to their flagship Frans K Smit blend. I found a little inconsistency at the lower end with occasional weak flavour profiles, whilst the reds tend to be “safe” and depend a little too much on the oak regime. Their Frans K Smit is an impressive wine for sure, although once again, a great wine should not need the crutch of extended oak aging.

Importer: Total Wine & More, Potomac. MD.

2006 Spier Frans K SmitSpier A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



The flagship 2006 Frans K Smit is a blend of 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Shiraz and an equal percentage of Bordeaux varieties fermented in new French oak for 27 months. It handles that oak well on the nose with broody blackberry, vanilla and graphite mixed with a touch of sage. The palate is full-bodied with dense, toasty tannins. It is well balanced, not as over-the-top as the heavy bottle suggested, but is endowed with a dense, introverted finish that deserves some bottle age to open up. It is a very polished wine no doubt, however at $99 you have to ask whether there is better QPR out there?

Overlooking the Helderberg Mountains, this Stellenbosch producer was the first to receive certification from the Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association and they are also members of the Biodiversity & Wine Initiative. Winemakers Frans Smit, Jacques Erasmus (whites) and Johan Jordan (reds) oversee a wide portfolio of wines that range from commendable ten-dollar entry-level varietals up to their flagship Frans K Smit blend. I found a little inconsistency at the lower end with occasional weak flavour profiles, whilst the reds tend to be “safe” and depend a little too much on the oak regime. Their Frans K Smit is an impressive wine for sure, although once again, a great wine should not need the crutch of extended oak aging.

Importer: Total Wine & More, Potomac. MD.

2009 Sterhuis ChardonnaySterhuis A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine from


http://www.winecorp.co.za/winecorp/home/index.jsp

http://www.sterhuis.co.za/

South Africa



2017

Unfortunately, the 2009 Chardonnay is no longer being imported into the US, which is a shame because it is an excellent Stellenbosch white. It has a superb, beautifully defined, precise, minerally nose that could come from Corton-Charlemagne! The palate is very well balanced with a crisp, citrus tinged entry, subtle notes of orange zest and almond, leading to a smoke-tinged finish that lingers beautifully. What a wonderful Chardonnay! Drink now-2017.

Importer: Knauth & Vissor, Branford, CT; tel. (203) 488-6665 (line apparently discontinued for the time being.)

2010 Strandveld Wines First Sighting Sauvignon BlancStrandveld Wines A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015 $15

With four months aging sur-lie, the 2010 First Sighting Sauvignon Blanc from Elim offers crisp gooseberry, Granny Smith apple and nettle bouquet that all vie for attention. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity with notes of nettle, greengage and gooseberry on the defined, tensile finish. This is Sauvignon that keeps you wishing for another sip. Drink now-2015.

Importer: Knauth & Vissor, Branford, CT; tel. (203) 488-6665.

2008 Sutherland SyrahSutherland A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa




http://www.strandveld.co.za/

http://www.sutherland.com/


2016

Aged for 18 months in barrel (30% new) the 2008 Syrah has ripe blackberry and black plum on the nose with good definition and freshness. The palate has a light grip on the entry with juicy black, earthy fruit with a subtle note of black pepper on the plush, caressing finish. This is one of the best in the Sutherland line-up. Drink now-2016.

Thelema’s Elgin-based vineyards are released under the “Sutherland” range. This new direction for the Stellenbosch stalwart came about when they purchased a cool-climate apple orchard in 2000 in the Eglin Valley and to date they have planted 45-hectares of vine overseen by vineyard manager Chris Watermeyer whilst the vinification is at Thelema.


2009 Testalonga El Bandito Chenin BlancA Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



The 2009 El Bandito Chenin Blanc underwent a four-week carbonic maceration. It has a lifted intense pear, smoke and wax resin nose with fine definition. The palate is well balanced, very natural with an attractive waxy, grapefruit and beeswax finish.

Testalonga is 29-year old Lammershoek winemaker Craig Hawkins’s own label in Swartland. Production is miniscule but well worth keeping an eye upon because the wines have a uniqueness about them.

No US importer.

2009 Testalonga El Bandito CortezA Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa





Foot pressed and aged on the gross lees for 23 months with no sulphur the 2009 Cortez Chenin Blanc is sourced from “The Observatory,” where Tom Lubbe used to make wine before moving to Roussillon to work at Domaine Gauby and his own Matassa project. The nose is lacking a little definition but be patient, for it develops attractive wax resin and honeysuckle aromas with time. The palate is well balanced and shows good tension on the entry. There are notes of dried honey, honeycomb, grapefruit and a touch of quince. With good weight on the finish, it is just the aromatics that hold this wine back. This is a very textural wine that I would love to taste with a couple of years in bottle.

Testalonga is 29-year old Lammershoek winemaker Craig Hawkins’s own label in Swartland. Production is miniscule but well worth keeping an eye upon because the wines have a uniqueness about them.

No US importer.

2010 The Foundry Grenache BlancThe Foundry A Grenache Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $22

The outstanding 2010 Grenache Blanc was blended with 15% Viognier, fermented in 2nd fill Allier casks with 10% malolactic and aged on its lees for 6 months. It has a well-defined bouquet with lime flower, lychee and a touch of linseed. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, good balance, well-integrated oak and a vibrant, apricot and white peach tinged finish. This is an excellent white Rhone varietal. Drink now-2018.

Meerlust winemaker Chris William’s produces his own label entitled “The Foundry” with fruit sourced from his own Syrah vineyard and around the Cape. His small range is well worth seeking out.


2007 The Foundry SyrahThe Foundry A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



http://www.thefoundry.co.za/

http://www.thefoundry.co.za/



2016 $36

The 2007 Syrah is aged in 20% new oak for 17 months and displays a youthful, crisp bouquet of raspberry, wild hedgerow, white pepper and a touch of game. The palate is medium-bodied with an ebullient entry and great structure, its core packed with ripe blackberry, white pepper and garrigue. All it is missing is a little persistence on the finish, but otherwise this is a great effort surfeit with personality. Drink now-2016.

Meerlust winemaker Chris William’s produces his own label entitled “The Foundry” with fruit sourced from his own Syrah vineyard and around the Cape. His small range is well worth seeking out.


2010 The Winery Of Good Hope Vinum Chenin BlancThe Winery Of Good Hope A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $14

Cropped at 30 hectoliter per hectare and sorted by hand, the 2010 Vinum Chenin Blanc is a superb wine at a superb price. It has a bright nose of pear, bruised apple and apricot with a prudent use of oak allowing the nose to achieve fine delineation and clarity. The palate is well-defined with a crisp, honeycomb tinged entry, a little spice and orange rind, leading to a finish with great weight and personality. This is a winery that lives up to its name! Drink now-2017.

Importer: World Premiere Wines, Mooresville, NC 28117.

2009 Thelema ChardonnayThelema A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



http://www.thewineryofgoodhope.com/

http://www.thelema.co.za/



2015 $25

Aged for 10 months in French oak (30% new) the 2009 Chardonnay has a luscious, creamy bouquet with touches of vanilla and almond. The palate is well balanced with a precise entry, good acidity and a linear, strict, leesy finish. Drink now-2015.

Thelema Mountain Vineyards was founded in 1983 when the McClean Family Trust purchased a fruit farm in the Helschoogte Pass, just outside Stellenbosch on the slopes of Simonsberg. Ex-chartered accountant Gyles Webb acts as both managing director and cellar master and in 2000, he was joined by winemaker Rudi Schultz. Thelema is renowned for their Cabernet Sauvignons and they did not disappoint, epitomizing Old World classicism with New World fruit intensity, wine with a propensity to age.


2008 Thelema The Mint Cabernet StellenboschThelema A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2018 $45

The 2008 The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon was raised in 50% new French oak for 18 months and it does what it says on the tin with precocious scents of mint and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple, pure entry with plush ripe red-berried fruit, very well integrated oak and a silky smooth, caressing finish. This is a classy Stellenbosch Cabernet that should age well. Drink now-2018.



2008 Thelema Cabernet SauvignonThelema





A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2016 $40

In complete contrast, I feel that Thelema is far more adept with that other noble Bordeaux variety. The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 18 months in 45% new oak and has a very succinct nose of ripe red berries, wild hedgerow and a touch of cedar all with very fine definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannins. It has good acidity and a lovely caressing, ironically Saint Emilion-like finish. This is a superb Cabernet Sauvignon drinking beautifully now. Drink now-2016.



2007 Thelema RabelaisThelema A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

Finally, the flagship 2007 Rabelais is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot and Merlot sourced from higher altitude vineyards of Simonsberg. It has a very deep colour and an introspective bouquet of dark berries, cedar, licorice and dried herbs. The palate is medium-bodied with supple toasty tannins on the entry. It is very harmonious with juicy red-berried fruits on the caressing, nubile finish. If seduction is its purpose, then job well done. Drink now-2018.



2009 Tierhoek Chenin BlancTierhoek




http://www.tierhoek.com/

A Chenin Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

Sourced from 32-year old vines and aged with a little oak, the 2009 Chenin Blanc demonstrates exactly what South Africa can do with the grape variety. Understated, very precise with subtle mineralite, the palate follows through with succinct cooking apple, lime flower and dandelion leading to a crisp, life-affirming finish that takes care of the residual sugar. Bon vin! Drink now-2016.

Located in Citrusdal within the WO of Piekenierskloof, winemaker Roger Burton is crafted South African wines that are well worth seeking out. These are already gaining accolades, so it is a shame that Tierhoek is currently not imported into the US.

No US importer (but available in the UK through Richards Walford.)

2006 Tierhoek Straw WineTierhoek A Sweet White Dessert wine fromSouth Africa



2020

The 2006 Straw Wine has a delectable, pure bouquet of candied orange peel and marmalade. The palate is viscous but not heavy in the mouth with a delightful peach and apricot finish that maintains wonderful delineation from start to finish. Drink now-2020+.

Located in Citrusdal within the WO of Piekenierskloof, winemaker Roger Burton is crafted South African wines that are well worth seeking out. These are already gaining accolades, so it is a shame that Tierhoek is currently not imported into the US.

No US importer (but available in the UK through Richards Walford.)

2010 Tobias Red Blend



http://www.tierhoek.com/

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



A co-fermented blend of 33% Syrah, 33% Mourvedre and 33% Cinsault the 2010 Red Blend has a generous, very pure, fleshy nose where the Cinsault really takes centre stage and opens beautifully in the glass with bright red fruits, pressed flowers and a touch of crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and great balance. Harmonious and silky smooth towards the stony finish, this is a very promising debut.

Tobias is a small label produced by young Brian MacRoberts who works with Eben Sadie in Swartland. His fruit is sourced from Eben’s vineyard and blended with both his father’s and father’s neighbour’s parcel in Malmesbury.

No US importer.

2010 Tokara Reserve Collection Elgin Sauvignon BlancTokara A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromElgin, South Africa



2017

Tokara’s finest Sauvignon by some distance is the superb 2010 Reserve Collection Elgin Sauvignon Blanc that was cropped at 5 tons/hectare. It has an arresting nose of asparagus, nettle and damp earth with crystal-clear definition, a bouquet surfeit with character and mineralite. The palate shimmers on the entry with notes of cut grass, lime zest, spice and Granny Smith apples and then fans out nicely to a crisp, herbaceous finish packed full of freshness. This is an excellent, complex Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now-2017+

Perched in the Helshoogt Pass in Stellenbosch, Tokara is blessed with a stunning vista. All of Tokara’s wines are sourced from their own vineyards in Stellenbosch, Walker Bay and Elgin. Winemaker Miles Mossop took me through their portfolio of wines that includes some of the finest Cabernet-based blends that I have tasted and a stunning Sauvignon Blanc. I was shocked that Tokara is not currently imported in the USA!

No US importer.



http://www.tokara.co.za/

2010 Tokara ChardonnayTokara A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017

Sourced from Walker Bay, Stellenbosch and Elgin and aged on the lees for nine months, the 2010 Chardonnay has an attractive, well-defined bouquet with touches of nectarine, lemon zest and a touch of stone. The palate is very well balanced with hints of apricot, white peach and lemon. It is underpinned by racy acidity and a crisp, leesy finish. Drink now-2017.


No US importer.

2009 Tokara Director's Reserve White

Tokara A Proprietary Blend Dry White Table wine from

South Africa


eRobertParker.comAug 2011

Neal Martin 92Drink 2011 -

2016

The 2009 Director’s Reserve White is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon with nine months aging on the gross lees, carrying the 26% new oak with style. The aromatics are well-defined and vivacious with scents of grass clippings, nectarine, jasmine and a touch of dried honey. The palate is well balanced with bitter lemon and grapefruit on the entry, strafed with superb acidity and a wonderful, vibrant tropical fruit-tinged finish that lingers beautifully. The White Blend cries out for summer’s day and comes highly recommended. Drink now-2016.






No US importer.

WA Notes

2009 Tokara Reserve Collection Stellenbosch ChardonnayTokara A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



2018

On a higher level, head for the 2009 Reserve Collection Stellenbosch Chardonnay. Sourced from the Simonsberg Mountain and matured for 10 months on the gross lees with 35% new French barrels, it is blessed with a nose you want to take home to meet your mother: beautifully defined with succinct new oak and life-affirming Corton-Charlemagne-like purity. The palate is very well balanced with orange zest and a touch of white peach on the entry. It has superb weight and tension here that builds to a very composed, complex finish. Outstanding. Drink 2012-2018+


No US importer.


http://www.erobertparker.com/newsearch/th.aspx?th=186458&___z=uz5ryIEcuiz0xy7%2B%2FJR42QT61vs%3D


2009 Tokara Reserve Collection Walker Bay ChardonnayTokara A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromWalker Bay, South Africa



2018

The 2009 Reserve Collection Walker Bay Chardonnay is sourced from Hemel-En-Aarde and aged 25% in new French oak. It has a lifted, intense bouquet of dried fruits, dried flowers with a smear of well-integrated vanilla-tinged oak. The palate is well defined on the creamy textured entry cut through with a nice citric thread although the oak is too prominent on the finish. I would afford this a little bottle age to allow that oak to fully integrate. Drink 2013-2018.


No US importer.

2009 Tokara ShirazTokara A Syrah Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

Blended with 12% Mourvedre with a small amount matured in French barriques, the 2009 Shiraz has a fresh nose of blackberry, raspberry and black pepper with well integrated oak. The palate is well-balanced with a juicy, ripe, fleshy entry and sweet red cherries, raspberry and spice vying for attention on the rounded, lush finish. It carries the 15.23% alcohol extremely well and constitutes a very well made, opulent South African Shiraz. Drink 2013-2018.


No US importer.





2007 Tokara Director's Reserve RedTokara A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020

A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 5% Malbec raised over 20 months in 80% new French oak, the brilliant 2007 Director’s Reserve Red has a broody nose of cocoa, dark chocolate and dark berries all cloaked in vanillary new oak that is very well enmeshed. The palate is medium-bodied with a very silky smooth entry: seamless tannins that are almost Burgundian in nature. It is still closed at the moment, but here, the new oak is very well integrated and absorbed into the precocious, sappy dark cherry, blueberry and cassis fruit. This is a gorgeous Stellenbosch red. Drink 2014-2020+


No US importer.

2001 Tokara Cabernet SauvignonTokara A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2015

A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot, at a decade old, the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon has a lovely, ripe, well-defined bouquet with attractive tarry notes suffusing the dense black fruit. The palate is very well balanced with a supple entry, good acidity, rounded blackberry, red currant and licorice that leads to a very youthful, almost opulent plush finish. This has aged extremely well. Drink now-2015.

Perched in the Helshoogt Pass in Stellenbosch, Tokara is blessed with a stunning vista. All of Tokara’s wines are sourced from their own vineyards in Stellenbosch, Walker Bay and Elgin. Winemaker Miles Mossop took me through their portfolio of wines that includes some of the finest Cabernet-based blends





that I have tasted and a stunning Sauvignon Blanc. I was shocked that Tokara is not currently imported in the USA!

No US importer.

2009 Uva Mira Vineyard Single Vineyard ChardonnayUva Mira Vineyard A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $30

Matured for 11 months in small oak barrels, the 2009 Single Vineyard Chardonnay has a gorgeous, refined bouquet with crushed stone, lime flower, a touch of white peach all succinctly entwined with new oak. The palate is very well balanced with a delicate entry that expands beautifully across the palate with notes of orange peel and subtle apricot. It is both long and vibrant in the mouth with a palpable sense of tension. This Chardonnay exudes thoughtful winemaking and is highly recommended. Drink now-2020.

Sourced from 14-year old vines, winemaker Matthew Van Heerden has produced one of South Africa’s outstanding Chardonnays that stood out like a sore thumb in a blind tasting.

Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, New York, 11791. Tel 516-677-9300.

2008 Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon / MerlotVergelegen A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016 $18

Moving on to the reds, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot (formerly labelled as “Mill Race”) is a blend of 45% Cabernet, 37% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc and raised in 20% new French barriques. It has a well-defined, exuberant bouquet with wild strawberry, raspberry, tobacco and cooked meats. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a crisp herbaceous finish that hits the spot. Drink now-2016.

Vergelegen has one of the most dramatic backdrops of any winery that I have visited. Located in Somerset West, this vast estate has a long history dating back to the 17th century, but the winery itself is thoroughly modern, not dissimilar to Pichon-Baron with its octagonal design. The estate was acquired by “Anglo American” in 1987 and two years later, they planted the first vines. They received enormous publicity when Vergelegen hosted the first unbanned meetings of the ANC. Andre van Rensberg is responsible for both the vineyards, which range between 140m and 310m in altitude, and the winemaking, and he is one of the few winemakers to have combatted leaf-roll virus head-on so that their replanting program of virus-free vines look set to bear virus-free fruit. Their portfolio focuses upon classic



http://www.uvamira.co.za/

http://www.vergelegen.co.za/

French grape varieties, divided into their entry-level white label range and their premium, black label range wherein the fruit is sourced exclusively from their own vines.

Importer: 57 Main Street Imports, Garden City, NY; tel. (516) 357-2070

2006 Vergelegen Reserve Cabernet SauvignonVergelegen A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018 $28

The 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with 5% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc and raised in 70% new French oak. The nose has ripe red-berried fruit laced with dark chocolate and a touch of mocha with commendable freshness and definition. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, good acidity with a crisp, focused ripe blackberry, tobacco and cedar finish that lingers nicely in the mouth. This represents a fine “New World Bordeaux” that should age nicely. Drink now-2018.

Vergelegen has one of the most dramatic backdrops of any winery that I have visited. Located in Somerset West, this vast estate has a long history dating back to the 17th century, but the winery itself is thoroughly modern, not dissimilar to Pichon-Baron with its octagonal design. The estate was acquired by “Anglo American” in 1987 and two years later, they planted the first vines. They received enormous publicity when Vergelegen hosted the first unbanned meetings of the ANC. Andre van Rensberg is responsible for both the vineyards, which range between 140m and 310m in altitude, and the winemaking, and he is one of the few winemakers to have combatted leaf-roll virus head-on so that their replanting program of virus-free vines look set to bear virus-free fruit. Their portfolio focuses upon classic French grape varieties, divided into their entry-level white label range and their premium, black label range wherein the fruit is sourced exclusively from their own vines.


2005 Vergelegen VVergelegen A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2019 $175

The flagship 2005 “V” is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc from the 23-year old Stone Pine IV vineyard, raised entirely in French oak for 24 months. It has a very ripe, lively bouquet with red currant, raspberry and cedar with very good definition with hints of smoked meat. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins and continues to evolve at a glacial pace. Quite austere in style with touches of brine and sea salt on the finish, I would actually cellar this for a couple





more years. Drink 2013-2019.



2004 Vergelegen Flagship RedVergelegen A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2020 $55

The 2004 Red Blend consists of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc and is aged entirely in new Sylvain oak barrels. The nose sports dark red-berried fruit with hints of licorice and sandalwood with fine delineation even if it would be enhanced by more vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, grippy tannins, well-integrated new oak and a long sweet finish of black cherries, tobacco and cedar. Still compact, this might benefit another couple of years in bottle. Drink 2013-2020.





2008 Vilafonte Series CVilafonte A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



Raised for 22 months in 80% new French oak, the 2008 Series C is a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 6% Malbec. It is already showing great lift and freshness on the nose with more red fruit character than the 2007, doubtless due to the higher percentage of Merlot. There is also a floral component that is not evident in earlier vintages. The palate is very well balanced with lush ripe red-berried fruit that is beautifully integrated with the oak, with caressing tannins on the velvety dark plum and creme de cassis infused finish. This is a simply delicious wine that will put a smile on your face.

Vilafonte is a joint venture between renowned California winemaker Zelma Long, viticulturalist Phil Freese and Warwick Estate proprietor Mike Ratcliffe. They only produce two wines, and that are both based on Bordeaux varieties from their 18-hectares of vines in Paarl (though the winery itself is in Stellenbosch.) Considering their price point they both represent excellent value and err towards a lush, sensual, caressing style without becoming cloying or saccharine. Couldn’t afford that Right Bank Saint Emilion or cult Napa Cabernet? Check out Vilafonte.

Importer: Broadbent Selections Inc., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 292-8466




2020 $45

Matured for 22 months entirely in new French oak, the 2007 Series C is a blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 6% Malbec. Is carries the new oak very competently, allowing those seductive dark berry and mocha notes to develop unimpeded in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with plush tannins, even softer and more velvety than the Series M with a seamless finish of red-berried fruits, mocha, leather and spice. With a gentle but persistent grip, this will benefit from a couple years of bottle age. Drink 2013-2020.

Vilafonte is a joint venture between renowned California winemaker Zelma Long, viticulturalist Phil



http://www.vilafonte.com/


Freese and Warwick Estate proprietor Mike Ratcliffe. They only produce two wines, and that are both based on Bordeaux varieties from their 18-hectares of vines in Paarl (though the winery itself is in Stellenbosch.) Considering their price point they both represent excellent value and err towards a lush, sensual, caressing style without becoming cloying or saccharine. Couldn’t afford that Right Bank Saint Emilion or cult Napa Cabernet? Check out Vilafonte.


2007 Vilafonte Series MVilafonte A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2017 $35

The 2007 Series M is a blend of 32.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32.5% Merlot, 30% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Franc and was raised for 16 months in new French oak. It has a pure, seductive bouquet of small dark cherries, cassis and dark plum, all with very fine delineation. The palate is very harmonious with velvety tannins and texture: lush dark berries, cassis and plum intermingling towards a svelte finish that is as soft as a feather-down pillow. This is a seductive, sensual Vilafonte! Drink now-2017.






2018 $45

The 2006 Series C is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc. It has a very well defined, Pomerol-like bouquet with a savoury, smoky/chestnut accent. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine balance. Savoury-tinged red-berried fruit entwined with cocoa, black pepper and dried orange peel define the mid-palate and the Cabernet Franc asserts itself on the finish and governs the personality of this wine. Drink now-2018+







2010 Vonderling Wines Sauvignon BlancVonderling Wines A Sauvignon Blanc Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



2018

The present winemaker is Matthew Copeland. Sourced almost entirely from their own estate, the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc has a well-defined nose of green apple, gooseberry and a touch of tropical fruit in the background. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with good acidity, and crisp green fruit, focused and vibrant towards the lively finish. This is a top-class Sauvignon Blanc for immediate drinking but will age nicely. Drink now-2018.

Vonderling is a Paarl-based production established in 2001, although the oldest vines are actually 27-years old. Their 45-hectares of vines hone in on classic French grape varieties, and these were augmented three years ago upon the acquisition of a neighbour’s plot that included Petit Verdot and Pinotage.

No US importer.

2008 Warwick Estate TrilogyWarwick Estate A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa


eRobertParker.comAug 2011 Neal Martin 90 Drink - $22-$23

The 2008 Estate Reserve is a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc and 15% Merlot and was aged for 24 months in French oak, of which 60% is new. It has an introspective, earthy bouquet with blackberry, cedar wood, smoke and a touch of green bell pepper from the Cabernet Franc that



http://www.vondelingwines.co.za/

http://warwickwine.co.za/%20

opens up nicely with aeration, allowing more red fruits to emerge. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy, ripe tannins; hints of black pepper sprinkled over the ripe black fruits leading to a composed cedar-tinged, oaky finish.

Warwick Wine Estate is one of the best-known South African estates based in Stellenbosch. Stan Ratcliffe purchased the estate in 1964 and immediately focused upon Cabernet Sauvignon, debuting the “Trilogy” with the 1986 vintage (see my report on ancient South Africa wines.) Cabernet still occupies just over 20-hectares of which one-quarter is under drip irrigation. The Cabernet is complemented by classic French grape varieties and 8-hectares of Pinotage. I tasted the wines both at the winery and in the UK.


2007 Warwick Estate TrilogyWarwick Estate A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine fromStellenbosch, South Africa



The flagship 2007 Estate Reserve (known as the “Trilogy” in the UK) has a fragrant, perfumed, quite floral bouquet with hints of blueberry, violet, mulberry and dark cherry. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced with fresh vibrant dark-berried fruit, and a smooth texture and focused finish. Whilst not a complex or profound wine, it is a well-crafted and pleasurable.

Warwick Wine Estate is one of the best-known South African estates based in Stellenbosch. Stan Ratcliffe purchased the estate in 1964 and immediately focused upon Cabernet Sauvignon, debuting the “Trilogy” with the 1986 vintage (see my report on ancient South Africa wines.) Cabernet still occupies just over 20-hectares of which one-quarter is under drip irrigation. The Cabernet is complemented by classic French grape varieties and 8-hectares of Pinotage. I tasted the wines both at the winery and in the UK.


2006 Webersburg Cabernet SauvignonWebersburg A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



2016

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon has a well defined, austere but focused bouquet with scents of cedar wood and warm gravel. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, ripe red berries and cranberry fruit with good structure on the finish. This is a well-crafted Stellenbosch Cabernet that is maturing with style. Drink now-2016.



http://warwickwine.co.za/%20

http://www.webersburg.co.za/

No US importer.

1984 Zonnebloem ChardonnayZonnebloem A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine fromSouth Africa



Very clear in colour, the 1984 Chardonnay has a wonderful, surprisingly fresh, vibrant bouquet offering delightful beeswax and honeysuckle aromas. The wine exhibits great lift, unfurling and intensifying with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a slightly viscous entry, touches of orange zest, citrus lemon and cooking apple, and a fresh, vibrant finish. Excellent. Tasted May 2011.

1959 Zonnebloem Cabernet SauvignonZonnebloem A Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Table wine fromSouth Africa



Poured from a half-bottle, this has a surprisingly deep garnet core with a thin tawny rim. The nose still has very good intensity with ripe tarry red fruits, syrup of figs, dried honey, molasses and a touch of mint. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight viscosity on the entry, very good weight and intensity matched with good acidity. This half-bottle is packed full of flavour with crushed raspberry, allspice, honey,



http://www.zonnebloem.co.za/

http://www.zonnebloem.co.za/

marmalade and tangy orange peel. Quite powerful and viscous on the finish, this is an absolute joy to behold. Remarkable. Tasted May 2011.

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