W A R N I N GPlease do not attempt to row this shell before obtaining proper instruction by reading the owner’s manual or viewing the teaching video. You should also wear appropriate safety gear, use only manufacturer-approved outfitting materials and heed weather and water conditions when rowing. The user of this product acknowledges both an understanding and an assumption of the risk involved in rowing.

We here at Little River Marine ask that you always take proper health and safety precautions when operating sports equipment. Even though Federal Law excludes rowing shells from carrying PFD’s (see the statue on the back of this page) we highly recommend that you carry a lifesaving device in clear view and reach of all participants. Some States’ Laws override these Federal Laws. Please check the Laws in your area. This should provide many years of safe and enjoyable rowing.

Thank you, Little River Marine

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PFDClarification

In our July/August issue (p.13), we said that under federal law, rowers are exempt from carrying personal flotation devices and that the federal law supercedes local and state regulations regarding

PFD’s. However, George Spiess of the Susquehanna Rowing Association has pointed out that the Federal law (and its pre-emption of state and local laws) applies only to waters that the US Coast Guard deems “navigable.” All other waters are Ieft to state and local jurisdiction. So, if the Coast Guard doesn’t classify the water you row on as navigable, you are subject to state or local law which could mean carrying a PFD. To find out whether the water you row on is considered “navigable,” contact the Coast Guard district in charge of the area nearest you.

Association News & Announcements

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ADDENDUM: As of 1-1-98, we are under the assumption that the Federal Law changed to include all watercraft as required to carry a lifesaving device. Please check with your local district to confirm.

LITTLE RIVER MARINE COMPANYWARRANTY CARD

(PLEASE RETURN THIS TO LITTLE RIVER MARINE COMPANY)P0 BOX 986, GAINESVILLE FL 32602

NAME: ……………………………………………………………. TELEPHONE: ………………………………………………………………

ADDRESS: …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

CITY: ……………………………………………………………….. STATE: ……………………. ZIP: ……………………………….…….

DATE PURCHASED: ………………………………………… PURCHASED FROM: ………………………………………………….

HULL LD. # LRC (LOCATED ON SIDE OF HULL) ………………………………………………………………………………………………

Source USCG

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1st District 617-223-85002nd District 314-589-37275th District 804-398-62917th District 305-536-56538th District 504-589-61889th District 216-522-390211th District 310-980-4300 x-120 13th District 206-220-711014th District 808-541-210517th District 907-463-2025

1. I HEARD ABOUT LITTLE RIVER MARINE PRODUCT FROM:MAGAZINEBOAT SHOWREFERRAL/FRIENDOTHER (SPECIFY)

2. MY MAIN REASON FOR ENTERING THE SPORT IS: EXERCISE/FITNESS RACING/TRAINING RECREATION OTHER

3. HOW OFTEN DO YOU ROW? . ONCEAWEEK 2-4 T1MES A WEEK 5 OR MORE TIMES A WEEK

4. MY ROWING LEVEL IS: BEGINNER INTERMEDIATE ADVANCED

5. THIS IS MY (CIRCLE ONE) FIRST I SECOND / THIRD SHELL PURCHASE. I PREVIOUSLY OWNED A…………………………………………………. (MODEL/TYPE SHELL)

6. (CIRCLE ONE) I HOPE TO / PLAN TO / HAVE ALREADY TAKEN ROWING LESSONS

7. MY OVERALL IMFRESSON OF LITTLE RIVER MARINE PRODUCT IS: AVERAGE ABOVE AVERAGE OUTSTANDING OTHER (SPECIFY)

8. DID YOUR LOCAL DEALER SERVICE YOU IN A PROMPT AND COURTEOUS MANNER? YES .........…............. NO………………………………….. COMMENTS:

9. DID YOU UNDERSTAND AND COMPREHEND THE OWNER’S MANUAL? YES…………………………. NO ………………………… COMMENTS ………………………………

10. IN WHAT WAY CAN WE BE OF BETTER SERVICE TO YOU? (BE HONEST AND SPECIFIC)

Thank you for your spirit and support in purchasing a Little River Shell.

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P.O. Box 986, Gainesville FL 326C2 - 352-378-5025 / 800-247-4591

Dear Rowing Enthusiast:

Congratulations on your purchase of a LITTLE RIVER rowing shell, the world’s finest and most sought after recreational craft. We have been promoting the sport since 1977 with an endorsement list that includes NASA, the Armed. Forces,’ the Boy’ Scouts of America, and Boating Industry’s “Top 100 Products’.

Recreational rowing is now recognized as the most complete aerobic and cardiovascular exercise available today —

none better. We have provided this manual to ensure proper use and care of your shell along with techniques and skills required to receive the maximum benefit of rowing. PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL CAREFULLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO ROW YOUR SHELL. IT INCLUDES PERTINENT INFORMATION ON YOUR WARRANTY, AND IT WAS WRITTEN FOR YOUR BENEFIT.

We have a toll free number always available to service your needs (1—800—247—4591) should any problems arise or any particulars do not make sense. Please feel free to call us with any comments and suggestions you may have,

or ask for a free copy of our Accessories Catalogue.

We would like to thank you again for your interest and Support in our products, and we hope that your shell and the sport of rowing adds more years to your life and more life to your years.

LITTLE RIVER MARINE COMPANY

“dedicated to the growth and spirit of rowing”

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Product Information and Warnings 1

Warranty 3

Beginner’s Guide to Setting Up Rowing Shell 4

Lesson One 9

Maintenance and Problem Solving 13

Other Tips 15

Launching Shell from a Dock 16

“A Rowing Primer” by John Peinert 17

Advanced Rigging 21

Oarlock Diagrams 25

“Fine Tuning Your Craft” by Graeme King 28

Rowing Vocabulary ‘ 32

Diagram of the SEASHELL 35

SPRINT & GUIDEBOAT Instructions 37

Stretching Exercises for Rowers 38

Repair and Maintenance 42

Rowing Shell Insurance 44

How to Lock Up Your Rowing Shell 45

Car Rack Instructions 46

Fin Installation and Replacement 49

HERITAGE Skiff Instructions 50

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The T-9 Story 57

Getting Into a Capsized Shell 58

PRODUCT INFORMATION & WARNINGS

The following is a list of special cares and concerns that each new owner should abide by, respective to each particular model. Neglect or abuse in these areas can and will disqualify your warranty protection. Following the guidelines will ensure many satisfying years of performance and pleasure. PLEASE TAKE THESE WARNINGS SERIOUSLY.

ALL SHELLS and SKIFFS

The outer color surface, gelcoat, has been put on extremely thin in order to reduce weight. Gelcoat is a very heavy material: and, as you know, weight is a no-no in rowing shells. Thus, this coating adds potential to stress-related cracks. Fortunately, these cracks are only in the surface (not in the fiber cloth) and should not take on water. CARE IN LAUNCHING AND HANDLING THE CRAFT SHOULD BE TAKEN AT ALL TIMES to help eliminate this potential. For instance, dragging the bottom of the shell on the edge of the dock is not recommended. Should your cracks become excessive, we offer a gelcoat home repair kit. See price list for current prices and ordering information. Stress-related cracks of this type are not covered by the factory warranty. Upon delivery of your shell, inspect the unit carefully and notify the factory within 48 HOURS to confirm factory or shipping related stress cracks to ensure warranty coverage.

The enclosed hulls of these models need to breathe when they aren’t in use or stored for the winter. IT IS IMPORTANT TO OPEN THE DRAIN PLUG AND/OR PORT HOLE TO ALLOW THE HULL TO VENIILATE AT ALL TIMES (when not being rowed.)

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SHELLS Storing and racking your shells should be handled in the following manner:

FOR OUTDOORS, store your shell upside down to prevent rain water from accumulating in the cockpit.

IF UPSIDE DOWN, it should rest on the cockpit splash board or coaming of the shell, preferably with the rack being padded, and up off the ground at least 8 inches. Do not rest the shell across it’s decks unless in a LANDRACK. NEVER REST THE SHELL DIRECTLY ON THE GROUND WITH THE WEIGHT OF YOUR BOAT RESTING ON THE RIGGER OARLOCKS.

IF RIGHT SIDE UP, your shell should hang in slings or wide straps that conform to the hull shape without resistance. NEVER LEAVE YOUR SHELL ON A HARD, FLAT SURFACE FOR EXCESSIVE PERIODS OF TIME; this could alter or dent the shape of your hull. Also, NEVER HANG THE SHELL FROM EACH ‘TIP’ END…POSITION THE SLINGS AT LEAST 4 TO 5 FEET IN FROM THE ENDS. This will ensure that a shell does not “droop” over extended periods of time.

SPRINT STORAGE - The SPRINT should be stored in the same manner as the others (upside down). However, FOR EXTENDED PERIODS OF STORAGE, the DROP IN UNIT should be REMOVED and set aside.

3. NEVER TIE DOWN THE SHELL WITH ROPE FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME. This can cause a “rope burn” in the hull. A strap or padded rope is recommended. It is also recommended to loop’ the strap around the hull when tying down or supporting its weight. DO NOT USE THE TOW EYE IN THE BOW DECK. That feature is used for tying off, not tying down.

4. If left outside, ALL SHELLS SHOULD BE STORED UPSIDE DOWN. Water seepage can be prevented using this method. Overtime, the wooden feet and the gelcoat will fade if not properly protected, (covered from direct sunlight)

PRO AM AND OLYMPUS

These shells are more high tech and more delicate than others and they need to be treated as such. Extra care should be taken when handling, storing and launching your PRO AM 25, PRO AM ELITE, or OLYMPUS.

The OLYMPUS should be transported like any other elite racing single. IT SHOULD BE SUPPORTED BY FREE FORM SLINGS OR 4” THICK PADS ABOUT 8 FT APART. AS WITH ANY OTHER RACING SHELL, MOUNTING THE OLYMPUS UPSIDE DOWN ON IT’S COAMING (LIKE A RECREATIONAL SHELL) WILL RESULT IN THE LOSS OF STIFFNESS OVER THE LENGTH OF THE SHELL. DO

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NOT SECURE IT ON THE ENDS. Tying down each end to the bumper can cause fatigue in the hull’s stiffness over a period of time because of road shock and the like.

SPECIAL NOTE

Any attempt to re-enter your shell after capsizing could cause major and/or minor structural damage, Re-enter your shell in emergency situations only (i.e. out to sea, cold waters perpetuating hypothermia, etc.); otherwise, return or swim the shell back to shore or next to another craft where you can enter the shell properly as described in this manual. (see page 55... Getting back into a Capsized Boat.)

HERITAGE ROWING SKIFFS STORAGE – The Heritage may be stored outside, right-side up on soft ground, padded dock or on a Heritage Dolly. Be sure to pull BOTH the drain plugs so rain water won’t collect. RAIN WATER IS VERY WEAVY AND IF ALLOWED TO COLLECT IN A BOAT COULD CAUSE DAMAGE

DAVITS: WHEN USING A DAVIT IT IS CRITICAL TO BE SURE NO WATER HAS COLLECT INSIDE THE FALSE BOTTOM. WATER IS VERY WEAVY AND IF ALLOWED TO COLLECT IN A BOAT COULD CAUSE DAMAGE. The Heritage should never be left for extended periods (even overnight) HANGING FROM DAVIT’S OR OTHER “SLING” DEVICES. If you must, use a sling under the hull (NOT HOOKED TO THE BOW & STERN TOWEYE) and make it mandatory to pull both the cockpit and the liner drain plugs.

MAINTENANCE: REPACKING THE COCKPIT DRAIN PLUG. Compared to a powerboat weighing several hundred pounds, these lightweight skiffs are able to shift and flex. Because of this, it may develop a leak in between the inner and outer layers around the cockpit drain plug housing. This is similar to repacking a prop shaft on a big boat. This procedure is explained under Maintenance and Problem Solving, section 13.

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ONE YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY10

Little River Marine CompanyP. 0. Box 986

Gainesville, FL 32602

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All LITTLE RIVER MARINE rowing shells are manufactured with high quality selected resins, fibercloth and stainless steel materials, which have been tested under rigorous conditions to meet every possible concern prior to leaving the factory. This warranty only applies to the original owner and is, therefore, non-transferable. Every LITTLE RIVER MARINE rowing shell shall be free of failures resulting from materials or workmanship for a period of ONE YEAR from the date of purchase if used under normal circumstances and are subject to the following conditions:

1) This warranty applies only if the shell is used in accordance with rowing related activities. This warranty is void if the equipment is misused, altered, or improperly sunk. It also becomes void if the equipment is used for promotions, (rental, clubs, training, etc.) and demonstrative purposes.

2) This warranty does not cover bending, breakage, or any damage caused by improper usage, accidents, or acts of God.

3) All warranty claims are subject to factory approval, and the judgement of LITTLE RIVER MARINE is final.

4) All repairs covered under this warranty will be performed at the factory, and all transportation charges are incurred at the expense of the customer. Defective parts must be returned before replacement or repairs will be made.

COVERED

1) Replacement parts and workmanship.

NOT COVERED

1) Normal wear and discoloration of all fiberglass parts,2) Transportation to and from repair center.3) Damage caused by abuse or unseaman-like use of the boat.4) Discoloration, blistering, or cracking of gelcoat caused by injudicious storage.5) Transportation of replacement parts.6) Surface scratches and finish on all wooden parts.7) Failure to comply with the “WARNING” section of the Owner’s Handbook.

We urge that you take a few moments to complete your LITTLE RIVER MARINE warranty card. It is important for you to return this warranty form to the manufacturer in order to validate your warranty. Failure to do so will void your warranty.

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A BEGINNERS GUIDE TO SETTING UP YOUR SHELL

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As a beginner, the terminology and fine-tuning adjustments required to rig your shell can be quite confusing, especially if you have never had to set up a shell before. Throughout this manual you will notice that a lot of print is dedicated towards properly rigging your shell. A properly rigged craft ensures that you learn proper rowing techniques and also enjoy and accomplish a good “row” on those first few times out. The following is a common sense guide to setting up your shell. Read this before you get into the advanced sections on rigging.

To keep things simple, there are three basic adjustments you need to make on your shell before attempting to row it.

A. The height of the riggers.B. The “button” adjustments on the oars.C. The foot assembly adjustment.

YOUR FIRST TIME

RIGGER HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

The height of your oarlock off of the water is important in order to pull the oar comfortably towards your solar plexus muscle — not high towards your chest — and not too low towards your navel. Rigger height is also adjusted left hand over right so as to keep your hands from colliding. Further height changes are sometimes made to accommodate rougher water conditions.

Your shell has been pre-adjusted for the average height/weight oarsman and average water conditions at the factory. We suggest that you try this first several times before adjusting the riggers’ height. If your shell was delivered unrigged, follow these simple instructions:

Heritage: Simply loosen the bracket handle enough to see a few threads, and drop the rigger in. Press down to get it all the way in.

All Wing Shells: Your attachment knobs are in your storage bag. Start all three before tightening any. Use the upper holes on the wing (the ones making the wing lower to the water)

Sea shell double:A. Leave all plastic shims on the rigger bolts, and remove only the stainless steel

nuts and washers. The plastic shim sets the height and protects the sides of the shell.

B. Slide your rigger onto the upper set of holes.

C. Snug the nuts and washers... just “spark plug tight”. There is no need to tighten the systems too much

Need illustration Need illustration

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FINE TUNING YOUR RIGGER HEIGHT ADJUSTMENTS

After you are comfortable with your shell and have a feel for rowing in the factory settings, you may want to adjust the rigger height off the water to better match your body size and water conditions. You can adjust the height up to three different ways depending on which shell model you purchased.

1. ALL MODELS: You can move the small white washers that are under the oarlock to above the oarlock.

2. WING MODEL SHELLS In RARE cases, a rower might want the rigger much higher, such as ocean

rowing. This is done by attaching the Wing to the shell using the other set of holes in the rigger base plate for a little more up/down adjustment. Note that when you do this, a small gap is created between the Wing and the shell. There is a black rubber washer on the mounting knobs that can be slipped into this space.

3. SEASHELL ( FOR ADVANCED ROWERS ONLY) For a large change in height, you can add or flip plastic wedges on the side of the shell under the rigger plate. NOTE: This is advanced rigging. Be sure to note the factory position of all wedges before changing any in case you need to go back to square one. Also, there should always be at least one wedge in place to protect the boat.

In other words, placing the washer fat side up lowers the rigger.

Placing the washer fat side down angles the rigger upward.

Placing two washer opposite each other leaves the rigger in neutral…but still protects the shell.

IMPORTANT TIPS

1. When raising/lowering riggers you need to maintain a 1/4” to 3/4” left over right (See rigger stick chart on page 8).

OAR BUTTON ADJUSTMENT

The next thing to set up is the button on each oars which needs to be located somewhere along the sleeve on each oar shaft. This adjustment is made so the oar grips, or more specifically, the hands, come directly one on top of the other during the overlap. The best position for beginners is wrist directly over wrist which measures to a 3 — 5” overlap of the oar grips. Advanced rowers use slightly more of an overlap — about 5 — 7” grip over grip.

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Needs illustration

THE FOOT ASSEMBLY ADJUSTMENTThis adjustment is made for the length of your legs and how it affects your posture during the rowing sequence. Each individual who rows your shell should make this adjustment:

1. Set the shell in the water.

2. Sit down in the shell and slide the body back until your legs are fully extended straight.

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3 At this point, look or feel behind you to see if your seat is touching or hitting the end of the track. If it is, YOU ARE TOO FAR FORWARD IN THE SHELL. Move the foot. assembly as from you or towards the stern of the shell.

4. RULE OF THUMB: Keeping the legs straight, bring the oars in towards the body. With a proper rowing grip, thumbs over the end of the grip, the thumb should just graze your stomach or your shirt. If the hands are hitting the stomach, YOU ARE TOO FAR BACKWARDS IN THE SHELL. Move the foot assembly towards you or towards the bow of the shell.

NOTE: Advanced rowers adjust for a 2 to 3 inch gap between their thumbs and shirt. We teach this grazing method as a reminder for your hands to row past your body. For beginners, the area past your body is also known as “No Man’s Land”; a place where novices lose their stability and end up swimming. We highly suggest you start with the grazing method and grow into the 2 to 3” gap with time.

These three adjustments are very simple to set up, and if they are done correctly, they will encourage proper rowing techniques that first day out. It is smart to memorize the RULES OF THUMB so you can check them each time you row. Once again, they are:

RULE #1: The left rigger should be 1/4” to 3/4”above the right or vice versa

RULE #2: Both hands should land about 1-2” above the navel at the end of the stroke.

RULE #3: The middle knuckle should be directly over the center of the shell with each proper grip which will give you a wrist over wrist overlap.

RULE #4: With your legs extended, your seat should not hit the end of the track, and your thumbs should just graze your shirt to remind you...”End of Stroke, stay out of ”No Man’s Land”.

NOTE: Your shell has been pre-heightened and fitted at the before being shipped to you. It was set for left over right rowing, and the height was set for a normal size rower (5’8” to 5’lO”) under normal water conditions (3 -6” chop). You will find the shell with the wedges and washers attached. We ask that you simply apply the rigging to whatever sequence of wedges found on the shell, and row it there. This will give you a starting paint to work from, then add or delete wedges as needed. (See rigger stick chart on page 8)With your a adjustments made and correctly checked, you are now ready for Lesson One…

HAPPY ROWING !!!

LESSON ONETHE FUNDAMENTALS OF ROWING

I. SAFETY

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1. Can you swim? (Life vest)

2. If you capsize, STAY WITH THE SHELL!! It is equipped withpositive floatation. You are more easily seen as a larger object.

3. Check all nuts and bolts — be sure everything is tight and secure.

4. Carry a life preserver with you at all times — Coast Guardregulations require one per person.

II. ADJUSTMENTS – (See “Beginners’ Guide to Setting up”)

FOR NEW EQUIPMENT

1. Left over right rigging height. Due to left hand overlapping the right, the left rigger should be higher off the water than the right. Check with a rigger stick. Left should be ¼” - ¾” higher than the right.

2. Setting the buttons on the oars - to be sure the hands overlap, one directly on top of the other - check with the oar in the rigger; grip over bottom keel.

FOR EACH INDIVIDUAL

1. Rigger height off the water - hands should feather just above your navel - set by the wedges between rigger and shell and the space washers on the oarlock pin.

2. Foot assembly adjustment — for length of each rower’s legs —set so each rower does not hit the end of the seat track when fully extended and thumb grazes stomach when feathering.

I I I. FUNDAMENTALS

FOUR BASIC TECHNIQUES

1. GETTING IN AND OUT OF THE SHELL:

a) Be sure oarlocks point towards shell when placing oar in lock.

b) Be sure oar spins freely.

c) Have oars in ready position before entering (grip over grip)

d) Get down in shell quickly, don’t stand up.

e) Before strapping in the feet, check foot assembly adjustment.

2. BALANCING THE SHELL:

a) Put a hand around each grip; thumb over end of grip.

b) Split oars one up, one down (with blades floating on water) to feel the “tippiness” of the shell.

c) Lock oar grips — as if wrists were tied behind your back - with blades on water - then try to rock the shell. This will demonstrate the speed of controlling the stability of the shell and how effectively it works. (Important step in gaining confidence and the attention of your student!)

d) This is the safety or panic button — Use the phrase “tie your wrists”.

3. THE ROWING STROKE:

a) We must first instill two new habits:

1. A straight, level stroke vs. roly-poly leave the blades on the water’s surface, and let them float.

2. Pushing with legs instead of pulling with arms; leave the elbows locked, and drive with the legs.

b) Go through the sequence of events.

1. Square or Catch - Knees together, arms straight, blades perpendicular, wrists flat, thumbs over end, blades 3/4 under surface of the water. RELAX!

2. Drive - Begin with the legs, keep elbows locked, drop shoulders, finish with arms - straight level stroke. HINT: Use a 4 count - first three - legs, last one — arms.

3. Feather - At the end of the drive (hands in front of stomach, not beyond in “No Man’s Land”, you turn your wrists down or “knuckles up”. Blades should exit water and immediately float on the surface. HINT: Relax the grip and upper body. Simply turn the wrists — use the phrase “flick and float”.

4. Return/Recover - Glide the blades. “ski on the water”, back away from the body, hands lead the way, lock elbows with arms straight before sliding the body, return to square position. HINT: Keep the return slow and relaxed giving the shell more time to glide without checking, body moving In opposite direction of the shell.

c) OTHER HINTS:

1. Feel the water, sensing the blades as if they were your hands floating and driving.

2. Relax the grip and drop the shoulders during the drive. Let the legs do the work especially during the start of the drive.

3. Look over your shoulders when the grips overlap during the drive — safest time to navigate.

4. In case of trouble, “tie your wrists”, stop for a moment, take a deep breath, then start over from the square position.

5. Never drive hard when the shell is in a stationary position. This could damage the shell or the rower’s lower back; ease into the momentum..

6. Give yourself time to understand and acclimate to rowing. You are learning something new for the first time. When rushed, the “mind vs. body” can frustrate or instill poor habits in any beginner. You will learn better by the sense of feeling rather than theory.

Example: Many beginners think that the shell is moved by pulling the oars rather than pushing the body. To break this mental habit, one should concentrate on dragging the oars at the beginning of each drive... locking only the elbow joint not the shoulder. The sensation one should feel is as if the arms are being pulled out of the shoulder sockets. Practice this habit slowly to give the body time to make this sensation a habit.

7. RELAX! RELAX! RELAX!

4. TURNING THE SHELL:

a) Easy Method:

1. Sit stationary with knees slightly bent.

2. Lay or lock one oar grip against one knee to stabilize the shell.

3. Use a tiny stroke with the other oar to turn the shell. Do not slide on the seat. You are to use an arm pull only. HINT: Use tiny strokes with a relaxed grip. Don’t worry about sliding - this method turns the shell in an arc and it requires more time and space to maneuver.

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b) Effective Method

1. Sit stationary with knees slightly bent.

2. Go to square position as in a normal stroke.

3. Turn one blade flat on the water and re-grip that blade so both wrists are

flat.

4. Begin a normal stroke sequence pulling both oars towards the body. Notice one blade is pulling water while the other is floating.

5. Feather both blades wrist down and knuckles up. Notice the pulling blade is now flat, and the flat blade is now cupped in reverse.

6. Return the blades to a stiff arm position. Notice the blade cupped in

reverse will now push water while the other blade will float or stabilize the shell. HINT: Use tiny strokes, arms only, do not worry about sliding on seat.

** RELAX the grips, allow them to float on surface,

** This method will turn the shell “on a dime”, and it is very effective in cramped quarters or windy conditions.

I.V. OTHER TECHNIQUES

1. The lead drag turn is used when turning the shell while continuing to keep up the stroke, to follow the allotted course, or to work out in a confined area.

a) Decide which way to turn as the opposite side oar will control the turn.

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b) In the drive position, rather than both wrists overlapping, one hand will lead ahead of the other. That hand is prematurely breaking the elbow lock and pulling the shell to one side while the other hand is continuing to drag.

c) Depending on the degree of turn required, the leading hand will break early or late along with pulling hard or soft. HINT: Slow down the pace. Keep the hands on the level plane because the shell has a tendency to lean towards the dragging oar. Do not let the oars split apart.

2. Rowing in Reverse is used when backing out of trouble or coming to shore or dock.

a) Turn the shell so that the stern is facing in the direction of where you need to go.

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b) Reverse both blades so they are cupped towards the bow

c) Reverse the action of a normal stroke so you will push, water on the return. Turn the wrists up and knuckles down at the catch and float the blades on the drive. HINT: Keep the strokes small, relax the grip, and allow the blades to float.

V. DRILLS USED TO CORRECT PROBLEMS

1. PROBLEM: Rower wants to pull rather than push the shell.

DRILL: “Stiff Arm” Drill

a) Go to the catch position.

b) Lock the elbows and prepare to keep them locked’

c) Drive the shell with the legs

d) When the legs are fully extended, stop the drive, feather the oars, and return

e) Do not allow the elbows to unlock.

f) Concentrate on driving with the legs.

2. PROBLEM: Rower can’t keep the oars level through the drive.

DRILL: “stiff Leg” Drill

a) Keep the ‘body in a stationary position with legs slightly bent.

b) Send the arms to the catch position.

c) Row a normal stroke with the arms only, and do not slide the seat.

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d) Work on relaxing the grips and keeping the hands level with the water.

e) Although this is using an incorrect habit of a pull vs. push drive, it does help to correct the problem.

VI. OTHER TIPS

If you are a novice at rowing a shell, here are a few tips to keep you dry and to help you develop a professional style.

A. Remember to hang on to your oars at all times, and you will greatly reduce the probability of getting wet!

B You can achieve improved performance as you learn with shorter slower strokes Remember to RELAX’

C. Check all ‘adjustments, and ‘tighten all bolts before leaving the shore. You will be glad you did.

D If by some freak of nature you happen to flip the boat, here are some tips:

1. Don’t fight it! Roll out of the shell quickly. This will keep your craft afloat whilst taking in only a small amount of water.

2. If possible, paddle the craft to the shoreline before attempting to climb back in. If you are too far out, bring the oars to the ready position (grip to grip); and tie the grips together with a foot strap. By doing this, you will stabilize the shell.

Carefully enter the shell from the side (SEASHELL, RIVERSHELL) or over side (PRO AM, SPRINT, OLYMPUS) by lying perpendicular to the craft belly over the center of the cockpit.

Staying low, begin to slide your legs into the craft towards the foot assembly.

Be sure to keep your weight distributed evenly and only on the sections of the shell that can handle your weight.

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Once you are in the shell, grab the oars and return to your proper rowing position.

REMEMBER TO READ THE WARNING SECTION ON PAGE 2 REGARDING RE-ENTRY INTO YOUR SHELL.

HINT: Keep an elastic tennis wristband on one of the oar shafts at all times. It works as a great “wrap around” for the grips should you flip the shell because you’ll need both hands free to stabilize the shell.

E. LAUNCHING FROM A DOCK

1. Slide the shell off the well-padded end of the dock, stern first. To save time, attach the oars in the oarlocks and lay the blades on the bow decking, one over the other.IMPORTANT: Carpet or pad the edge of’ the dock 3” to 4’ wide to prevent damage to the hull.

2. Bring the shell along side until the corner of the dock comes up to the corner of where the rigger is attached to the shell. (See diagram)

3. Reach out and kick both oar blades back into the water, gliding them around until both oar grips overlap.

4. With one hand grabbing the grips together and the other holding the dock, slowly climb down into the shell. Notice the blades are providing stability while entering the shell because they are both locked on the surface.

5. Once you are in the shell, gently push the craft away fun,,, the dock until you float far enough away to work the oars.

F. Be sure you allow your shell to breathe when it is not in use. The sealed craft emits fumes

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when going through temperature changes and the like.

IMPORTANT: Loosen the drain plugs and porthole after each use and when storing the craft. For your protection, the PRO AM and the OLYMPUS have a breather hole located in each top foot track should you forget to loosen the drain plug.

G. Your shell is a precision craft and it should be handled with personal care at all times. It can fine tuned to your exact height, weight, and rowing ability. Please use care in handling, storing, and transporting your shell. It should be washed down after each use and properly stored. The sculling oars should also be handled as delicate instruments and cleaned after each use. Start a routine clean up and maintenance check after each row. This will ensure a lifetime of pleasure and performance from your LITTLE RIVER shell.

CATCH, DRIVE, FEATHER, RECOVER:

A Rowing Primer

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By John Peinert35

Welcome to the sport of rowing, or sculling. It is one of the most rewarding and enjoyable of all water sports, as well as being a complete exercise and an efficient means of transportation. As with any new activity, however, you need a little pa-tience at the start. Instruction from an experienced sculler is the best way to learn the sport, but in the absence of such advice, this guide, and others like it, will help you get started.

Some words of advice to take on the water with you: Because rowing boats are built for speed, they are narrow and until you become used to handling them, can easily tip over. You should start learning to row only when the water is warm, and it’s always wise to have another person present to watch out for you and to help with the instructions. If you are not a good swimmer, wear an approved life vest. It you capsize, do not leave the boat. Stay with it and use the boat, the oars, or both as flotation devices to help you swim ashore. You will probably need a couple of outings before you feel comfortable with rowing a shell; so avoid rowing too fast in the beginning. Take your time with the techniques, relax, and enjoy your new sport.

Carrying the Equipment

Recreational shells are light and easily carried by two people, one at each end, or by one person from the side, canoe-fashion. The oar blades are thin and somewhat fragile. Always carry the oars with the blades in front of you to reduce the chances of hitting anything with them. Use care when putting them down or into the boat, and when leaving the dock or shore. The seat will stay in the boat when you carry it short distances, but when you transport the shell atop your car or truck, you should remove the seat.

Getting In and Out of the Boat

After you have placed the boat in the water, put the oars in the oarlocks. Place the thin part of the

oar shaft (near the blade) into the lock, then slide the oar out until the button contacts the lock. Now to get into the boat, hold both oar grips with one hand. Make sure that the buttons are out against the locks, the oar

blades are flat (spoon-side up), and the oars are perpendicular to the boat. Place your other hand on a convenient edge of the boat (usually the gunwale), place one foot on the non-slip surface between the tracks, and step in.

As you step in, the oars should be in front of you (to the stem) and the seat behind you (to the bow). If the seat is out of position, sit on the platform and adjust yourself onto it. After sitting down, place your feet under the loops of the foot-board and adjust the straps to be just snug. In order to adjust the straps without rocking the boat or tipping it over, bring both oar handles into your arm-pits. With the blades resting flat on the water, extend your arms over the handles and roll forward on the seat so that the oar handles are positioned between your thighs and arms.

You have to maintain control over both oar handles at all times to prevent capsizing. The oar blades act as outriggers, and they will keep the boat upright as long as you keep your hold on the

grips. Only when you let go of one of the oars or turn it completely parallel to the boat can you capsize.

Rowing

You will find pushing off easier if the boat is parallel to the dock or the shore. Remember to keep the oars relatively perpendicular to the boat and to avoid shipping the oars as you would in a beam ier fixed-seat rowboat.

If you embark from the shore, you can probably just row away, but be sure to keep the oar blades from hitting the bottom. If you leave from a dock, hold onto the oar handles with one hand and push off with the other. Your push may not get you far enough away from the dock to begin rowing; so lean away from the dock a little, onto the outside oar blade and carefully pull the inside towards you until you can place the blade on the edge of the dock and push

Top to bottom: correct grip for drive, wrist flat. Incorrect grip. Note arched wrist. The twist. Rotate the oar handle toward you, opening your grip. Correct position of hand. The oar blade is feathered flat.

away.

rowing techniques, a word about returning to the dock. Approach slowly and at an angle. Just as the blade is close to hitting the dock, lean away onto the outside blade. This will cause the boat to turn parallel to the dock as it comes in, and it will enable you to raise the inside oar onto the dock. Practice this maneuver a couple of times away from the dock.

Begin rowing from the basic rest position; the most comfortable position in which to sit when not moving. Sit squarely on the seat, feet under the straps, knees down so that the backs of your calves touch the boat, one hand on each oar, the oar handles just in front

of you over your thighs, oar blades flat on the water concave side up.

Still sitting in the rest position, change your grip on the oar handles for the drive. Your fingers should be loosely wrapped around the handles with your thumbs across the ends of them. Use your thumbs to press lightly outwards at all times to keep the buttons in contact with the oarlocks. Your wrists should be relatively flat. If they are arched up or down, you will have trouble with the feathering, and your forearms will quickly tire. The oar blades should be perpendicular to the water and floating, just covered. The concave side of the blades should point toward the stern.

Before you get into the actual

AugusIJSepI~’~”~ ‘‘~82

-You will find it easier to start

rowing without using the sliding seat. Simply sit with your legs down flat and row with your arms and upper body swing until you become accustomed to feathering. Now pull on the oar handles. At the end of this drive stroke, you want to feather the oar blades flat as you take the blades out of the water. If you turn the blades flat too soon (while still pulling on the oars), they will knife deeply into the water; if turned too late, they will be harder to release from the water.

To feather the oar blades flat, give a relaxed twist to the handles. Drop your wrists slightly while you roll the handles toward your chest. At the same time, let the oar shafts drop flat into the oarlocks and let the handles roll out more from under your fingers. The blades will not go completely flat; the front edge is slightly higher than the back edge to help keep them from digging into the water during recovery.

Return the blades to the catch position. To move the blades back to vertical for the catch, merely squeeze your fingers toward your palms, rolling the oar blades forward. Return your wrists to the flat position.

Feather the blades at the following points in the stroke: during recovery when they are held flat and a couple of inches off the water; just before the catch when they are returned to vertical for the drive.

The oar handles overlap in the middle of the recovery and drive. The starboard (your left as you sit in the boat) oarlock is set slightly higher than the port, and you will want to row with your left hand slightly higher than your right. In the middle of the stroke, the starboard handle will be directly over the port handle.

To row using the sliding seat, start at the rest position. Extend your arms straight toward the stem, swing your upper body toward the stern, then roll the seat as far toward the stem as is comfortable. Feather the blades to the vertical position and place them into the water as you reach your full extension. Your knees should stay close together so that they come up either under your armpits or in front of your chest.

You accomplish the first half of the drive by a push of your legs and a simultaneous swing toward the bow with your torso. Keep your arms straight. Only when your legs are fully extended do you begin to pull in on the oars with your arms. At the same time, finish the swing of

your upper body to a position about ten degrees past vertical. Your elbows should hang down in a relaxed position so that they will pass closely by your torso as you finish the stroke.

Problems You Might Have and How to Correct Them

1.It is hard to release the blades from the water at the end of the drive.

• You may have the blades too deep in the water (they should be just covered), or you may be feathering them too soon or too late. Turn the blades flat just as you release them from the water.2.The oar handles hit your knees on recovery.

• You should keep your legs extended and your knees down until your arms are fully extended and your upper body has swung toward the stern. At that point the oar handles are over your shins, clear of your knees, and you can begin to roll the seat toward the stern.

• You may be trying to keep the blades to far off the water,, which will place the handles too low. Keep the blades only a couple of inches off the water.

• Raise the oarlocks a little.3.Your forearms get tired.

• Try a more relaxed grip on the oar handles.

• Be sure your wrists are flat as you pull through the drive.

• Be sure you have lubricated the oar sleeves and buttons withCrisco or Vaseline. The oars will turn more easily in the locks.4.The seat binds and doesn’t roll easily.

• Be sure you are sitting in the middle of the seat and not twisting as you roll back and forth.

• The seat wheels might need oiling.5.It is hard to keep the blades from diving too deep on the drive.

• You are probably not turning the blades all the way to vertical before putting them into the water at the catch. Be sure grip on the oar handles is relaxed. Be sure the blades are vertical before catching the water; relax your grip as you pull so that the flat of the oar shafts align themselves with the flat of the oarlocks.6.It is hard to keep the boat level while rowing.

• Be sure to keep your body balanced over the center of the boat.

• Work on a smooth release so that you start your recovery on an even

keel.• Be sure to keep the oar handles

moving on4~onstant level; moving the handles up and down affects the balance of the boat.

Although this guide will help you get started, experience is the best teacher. After a couple of hours on the water, a lot of what I’ve discussed will be second nature, and you’ll find a whole new sack-full of excuses for going rowing.

As the oars swing through and the grips point at your sides, lightly press down on the handles and simultaneously feather the blades flat. When the blades are out of the water at the end of the drive, recover by straightening your arms (remember to keep your left hand over your right) and moving the grips toward the stem on a level path.

As your arms straighten, let your upper body swing toward the stem. When the oar handles are past your knees, begin rolling the seat toward the stern, keeping your arms straight and your upper body reaching for the next catch. Just before getting to your full reach, turn the blades to vertical and prepare to let them lightly drop into the water. Lower the blades into the water as you stop rolling on the seat. Begin pushing off for the next drive.

You might find balancing the boat easier if you let the oar blades act as outriggers; by letting them skim the water’s surface on recovery. You will soon discover, however, that you can row more smoothly, especially in choppy water, if you keep them a couple of inches off the surface.

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ADVANCED RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS

For over a decade, LITTLE RIVER MARINE has been the leader in innovative design with the customer in mind. Our rigging has changed and progressed to a point where adjustments are rarely necessary and little maintenance is required. Attachment and adjustments are simple tasks completed in a few minutes. The following instructions will provide you with all the information necessary to fine tune your shell to your abilities and various rowing conditions.

RECOMMENDED TOOLS

One 7/16” combination wrenchOne 6” crescent wrenchOne 3/8” NUT DRIVER

One small regular screwdriver

IDENTIFICATION CODES

Stamped on the underside of each oarlock mounting block are letters which designate the appropriate rowing stations.

SS — heritage stern, starboard (rowers left hand)SP- Heritage stern, port (rowers right hand)

BCS- Heritage bow or Center, starboardBCP- Heritage bow or center, port

SO - Seashell Double (Bow & Center Positions)SOS - Seashell Double (Stern Position)

Reg – Regatta WingP - Pro Am 25 and Pro AM Elite Wing

CA – Cambridge Wing O – Olympus Wing

The following diagrams illustrate the different wedge combinations FOR THE SEA SHELL DOUBLE ONLY and their effect in changing the height.

A 1. One Down - This is the standard position on all models for the average size oarsman in fairly calm waters.

A 2. Off Set - (One up and one down) - Using the extra wedge washer, place it upside down and opposite to the standard “one down” washer. This raises the height of the oarlock ¾” from the standard position.

A 3. One Up - By reversing the single wedge washer, you can raise the height of the oar ½” from the standard position.

A 4. Double Up - Both wedge washers are upside down. This position is used only in severe choppy water. Using the wedges as illustrated will raise the height off the oar lock 2 ¼”.

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A 1

A 2

A 3

A 4

A 5. Double Down – By using the wedges as shown, the height of oarlock will be lowered 1 ½” from the standard position.

NOTE: You may still accommodate a proper stroke by switching your riggers from the standard position (Diagram Al to A2, A3, A4, or A5 as your rowing conditions become choppier or as conditions warrant a change. This adjustment allows for higher clearance of the oar blades over the chop on the return stroke.

As you can see, there are several wedge combinations you can use to adjust the height of the oarlock. Choose the proper combination that allows you to complete the stroke pulling at the waist (slightly above the navel). -

If you wish to adjust the height less than 3/4” (the change in one wedge position), use the white shim washer located directly under the oarlock. Each washer allows you to change the height 3/16” at a time.

SEA SHELL DOOUBLERIGGER ATTACHMENT

Remove the 1/4” nuts and both stainless steel washers, and place the rigger on the rigger bolts with desired wedge configuration. Replace stainless steel washers and nuts, and tighten until its snug.

NOTE: Be sure to check the nuts for tightness each time you row. This ensures proper rowing techniques and eliminates the potential for damage to the shell.

ALL BOATSPITCH ATTACHMENT

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A 5

Your rigging is adjusted so that the pitch of the oar blade enters the water at 7°. As you pull through the stroke, it changes gradually until the blade exits the water at 3°. This allows the blade to dive easily into the water, and it assists the oarsman in getting the oar blade out of the water.

The oar lock pin is preset at 2° laterally. The oarlock has a built in 5° vertical pitch. The result is a 7° pitch at the catch, 5° midway through the stroke, and 3° upon completion of the stroke.

NOTE: Each height adjustment of 3/4” results in a 1° lateral pitch change. One degree will not be very noticeable. If you must raise the height more than 3/4” and want to maintain the 2° lateral pitch:

UNIVERSAL PITCH (PATENT Pending)

Universal pitch is standard on CAMBRIDGE, PRO AM 25, PRO AM ELI-TE, and OLYMPUS. This is the simplest and most accurate pitch adjustment on the market.

Once your rigger height has been established, you can set your pitch exactly the way you like with this system. You will need a pitchmeter, available from LRMC, to adjust this.

Step 1: Establish rigger height to the height you prefer.

Step 2: Level the shell fore/aft and side to side using a standard builder’s level.

Step 3: Loosen the four adjustment bolts around the pin.

Step 4: With your pitchmeter firmly clamped in the center of the oarlock, adjust the screws to set pitch at 7 /5 /3 (or how you prefer it) at the catch, drive, and recovery. Snug slightly and double check, then snug firmly.

For further information on the oar lock pitch, consult the pitch meter’s operating instructions.

SPREAD ADJUSTMENT

Spread refers to the distance from one oarlock pin to the other. By moving the oar locks in, you shorten your stroke providing more strokes per minute and decreasing your stability to some degree. The innermost mounting positions are for increased pace and speed and for more accomplished oarsmen. THIS IS A VERY UNCOMMON ADJUSTMENT FOR RECREATIONAL ROWERS.

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25

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SEQUENCE OF OARLOCK & HARDWARE

tube of sleeve aluminum

thin wall tall plastic washer

lock nut

the lock nut will fit tight against the sleeve

Note: all the plastic washers and oarlock slide over the sleeve and spin freely

Note: to adjust the height remove the thick wall washers from below and place above the oarlock.

The sleeve will be tight against the black

plate

4-6 thick wall plastic washers

(used to adjust the height

Universal Pitch -Tighten / loosen 4

bolts to changerigger

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CONCEPT II OARLOCKS

Bushing Color

Bushing Color Sweep ScullBlack 9/16” ½” (& adapter)Blue 13mm 13mmWhite ½” 7/16”

• The shape is designed for easy oar handling with positive

stable positioning on both drive and recovery.

• Replaceable bushings for pitch adjustment and pin fit.

• Unbreakable “Supertough” nylon.

• Stainless steel gate.

• Meets FISA standards for oarlock turning diameter.

Pin diameter must be specified at time of

order. Different colored bushings fit different

pin diameters as shown in the table below.

*Adapter for “crescent” type scull backstand fits into black ½” scull bushing.

5” – 3”Bushings

Qty. 4

6” – 2”Bushings

Qty. 4

7” – 1”Bushings

Qty. 4

4” – 4”Bushings

Qty. 4

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THEBUSHINGS TO ADJUST PITCH

Adjust oarlock pitch from 1 to 7 degrees by selecting two bushings with the desired pitch imprinted and inserting them in opposite directions as shown in the drawing. (If replacing existing oarlocks, keep in mind that most non-adjustable oarlocks have a built-in pitch of 4 degrees.)

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Toweye

Bow

VinylRubrail

Integral Coaming

PointSplashboard or Coaming

Rigger Mainstay

Rigger Support Stay

Cockpit Area

Removable Seatbox

Collar or Sleeve

Reinforced Fiberglass Hull

Adjustable Foot Tracks (3 per station)

Porthole Cover w/ Flapbag

Oarblade

Oarlock & Pin

Seat Tracks

Starboard

Stern

Port

Foot Assembly(heelcups, footplate, footbars)

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SPRINT AND GUIDEBOAT INSTRUCTION SUPPLEMENT

Your SPRINT ROW WING can be mounted in two positions

- For rowing as a single, the ROW WING is mounted in the extreme rear stern of the shell.

- For rowing as a single with a passenger, the ROW WJNG is mounted in the extreme front-bow of the shell.

Use only the lower holes (2&4), not 1 and 3 when installing the foot pads. See diagram in instructions. This prevents the wooden foot plate from touching the bottom of the boat.

Make sure the ROW WING is securely fastened in the cockpit by using the alien bolts. Loss of the ROW WING will result if it is not fastened securely!

WARNING! DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS!

Follow all instructions while assembling the ROW WING.

Make sure the rubber collars on the wing match up with the gunnel on the shell.

WARNING!!! When storing the shell outside, store the shell upside down only! This is to prevent water from filling up the inside cockpit, which could cause weight damage.

AI~~ ~~ ~ ~,

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Sample Stretching Exercises

Fig. 1 TRICEPS Fig. 2 POSTERIOR (BACK) OF THE SHOULDER

Reach over your head Pull one arm across the frontand gently pull your elbow of your body gently and hold. with your opposite hand.

Stand facing the wall, approximately 2 to 3 feet away from it. Place the leg to be stretched behind the other, with the back foot rotated inward. With hands against the wall, lean forward, keeping back straight and back heel flat on the ground. Perform with back knee straight, then slightly bent. -

Fig. 3 LOWER BACK

Lying on your back with your knees bent up, bring both knees to your chest and gently stretch by grasping the legs BEHIND the knees with your arms, and hold.

Fig. 4 QUADRICEPS

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I

Fig. 5 HAMSTRINGS Prop one foot on a step and bend

forward toward your toes. The supporting leg (the one on the floor) should be rotated inward.

Fig. 6 CALFStand facing the wall, approximately 2 to 3 feet away from it. Place the leg to be stretched behind the other, with the back foot rotated inward. With the hands against the wall, lean forward, keeping back straight and back heel flat on the ground. Perform with back knee straight, then slightly bent.

Fig. 7 BUTTOCKS AND UPPER BACKFrom a standing position, squat down with feet flat and toes pointed out at a 15-degree angle. Heels should be four to 12 inches apart. Arms should be fully extended while the hands grasp a pole or rail for support.

Fig. 8 UPPER BACKStarting position as in Fig. 7, however, do not bend knees past 45 degrees. This activity will stretch the upper back without stressing the knee joints.

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MAINTENANCE SUGGESTIONS

We’ve designed all of our Shells and Dory’s to be very simple to maintain; following a few “common sense” rules and a little T. L.C. will ensure many happy days of rowing. This is the golden rule you should remember on a daily basis:

“KEEP IT CLEAN; KEEP IT DRY, KEEP IT COVERED...”

KEEP IT CLEAN:

Cleaning your craft can be a 5-10 minute job, as long as you do it often. All the parts and hardware are either stainless steel or anodized aluminum, so you can use it in both salt or fresh water. After rowing in salt or “brackish, simply HOSE OFF ALL METAL PARTS.

• Although it’s not mandatory, after rowing and the boat is still wet, WIPE DOWN THE BOAT WITH A DRY TOWEL, both hull and deck. This helps reduce a buildup of dirt, film or water lines.

• Every so often (once a month..) you should give your boat a more thorough cleaning. WASH THE ENTIRE BOAT WITH SOAP AND WATER, using most any liquid cleaning product. “Softscrub” will work on tough dirt; acetone or mineral spirits will work on stains... NOTE: Don’t get acetone on any plastic part, striping, or sticker — it will “melt” them.

• Over time grit and grease can build up in the seat tracks. Clean them by RUBBING A DRY TOWEL DOWN EACH TRACK, or wetting the towel with a degreaser. Also, we do not recommend using a lubricant or silicone in the tracks (or oarlocks); this would only attract more sand and grit...

• We also recommend you WAX THE FIBERGLASS HULL AND DECK once or twice a year. Use a good quality “fiberglass” wax (not car wax, which is for metal...) some now even have “ultraviolet resistors” for better protection from the sun. A polymer-based product is also beneficial, where it adds a thin “dear coat” to the hull making it a lot easier to keep clean.

KEEP IT DRY:

• A very important part of maintaining your shell is TO VENTILATE THE HULL when it’s not in the water. AFTER each row, you should UNSCREW BOTH DRAIN PLUGS on the deck and allow the craft to “breathe” (the liner plug on the transom of the Dory should be opened at least once a week...). This eliminates any buildup of condensation or undue water, and will keep the integrity (of the superstructure) intact. Porthole covers can also be opened during longer periods of non-use.

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• DO NOT STORE YOUR CRAFT IN THE WATER for any length of time. Since there are no bottom protectants, this would damage the gelcoat over time. It’s OK to leave it in for an hour or two, but no longer...

When storing the Shell OUTSIDE, always TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN so it can shed any potential rainfall. The Dory can be stored either way; if RIGHT SIDE UP, be sure to PULL THE COCKPIT DRAINPLUG, even with the boat covered, due to “Murphy’s Law”...

Heritage water in the bilgeBetween the inner and outer liner is a bilge. Like a powerboat, this bilge may collect water from minute passageways. Check it regularly:You can get the water out by pulling out the screw and rubber stopper in the wineglass transom. Simply loosen the screw 1/2 inch and then use the exposed screw as a hand hold to wiggle the rubber gasket out, then tip the boat.

There are several possible places for a leak into the liner your boat, the inside cockpit liner drain plug, and the outside wineglass transom drain plug, around screws. It is also possible to get water inside the liner around the big porthole storage port. This usually only occurs if standing water in the cockpit is allowed to touch the porthole, such as after a rainstorm, and the bow is lower than the stern. It is possible to cause a leak by pulling the boat over an edge of a dock. This puts a load on the glue holding the inside liner to the outside liner, at the cockpit liner. If the water didn't come in through the storage port, this is the most likely place for a leak. A test can be done to see if the water is getting in at the cockpit drain hole, the most common place. First, empty any water from the hull as earlier described. Then, from the outside, simply cover the cockpit drain hole with 2-inch clear packing tape or duct tape. This will serve as a temporary "plug" over this area. Then row far a while and then recheck the transom plug for new water. If none, this is the source of the leak (if it didn't come in the porthole). To repack a cockpit drain plug leak:1. Remove the plastic drain plug housing2. Scrape away the old silicone sealant.

3. Reseal with quality marine sealant and reinstall the plug. Be generous and don't wipe off much of the excess. Let dry completely before using the boat.

KEEP IT COVERED

• The two elements that deteriorate the life expectancy of fiberglass boats are “Water” and “Sunshine”.

If you plan to leave your Heritage in the water, it should be ordered with an optional “blister Resistant layer. If you did not get this your boat is not designed to stay more than an occasional overnight in the water. Shells should never be left in the water over night.

If you plan to store the craft outside in direct sunlight, COVER THE BOAT at all times. (We make custom-fit canvas covers for each model, which can be looked at as an economical “insurance” plan). Even a tarp or blanket draped over the hull will protect it from harmful UV rays, which, overtime, can discolor, fatigue, or breakdown the function of the gelcoat surface.

Other Maintenance “Rules”:

1) Whenever possible, store and transport your Shell UPSIDE DOWN and support it from the coaming or splashguard around the cockpit, not on the decks. If RIGHT SIDE UP, use a “sling” device that will conform to the shape of the hull, and space the slings no more than 8-10 feet apart (in other words, don’t hang the shell from the very tip ends; move in at least 4-5 ft)

2) Proper storage on a dock, in the garage, up along the outside wall of you condo, etc. is always important.

3) Minor repairs can be done right at home with the help of our home repair kits. If you have small scratches, cracks or chips in the gelcoat, simply call the factory and give them the proper colors to match. We also offer a fiberglass patch kit - both come complete with most of the tools and materials needed to do the job and a detailed step-by-step manual.

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4) When you’re finished with the row, be sure to store your CARBON parts & oars) inside, or keep them covered from the elements. It’s also good to wipe them down from time to time.

• To repair scratches or gouges, use a good- ‘exterior’ grade POLYEURATHANE or SPAR varnish. If they show signs of weathering, you can lightly sand them down (with 220 grit or steel wool...) and add another coat, but use it “sparingly”.

5) It’s also a good idea to thoroughly clean your “moving parts” (seat wheels and oarlock pins) especially if you row in dirty or salt water conditions. You should take the oarlocks apart, and clean each piece removing any grit buildup. NOTE: To prevent any “salt” corrosion build-up between stainless and aluminum parts simply unscrew them from time to time, clean and spray with “WD 40” or similar product …(i.e., the allen bolts that screw through the monorails on Sprints and Dorys; the handles on Dory “swing out” riggers, the 4 screws that level the bracket under each oarlock, etc.)

6) Should ANYTHING arise that you’re not sure of or you may need some advice on, don’t hesitate to call our toll free number — we’ll be glad to help in any way we can. (If not, we’ll go to committee on it, we’ll do lunch, then we’ll have our secretary call yours.. ,HA!...)

Remember the golden rule:

KEEP IT CLEAN, KEEP IT DRY, KEEP IT COVERED

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SHELL INSURANCEby

LEONARD, CANTRILL & CLARKINSURANCE BROKERS & CONSULTANTS

450 N. Narberth Avenue

Narberlh, PA 190721-800-SCULLER

Leonard, Cantrill & Clark is the largest insurer of rowing equipment in the world. This program is available to individuals, schools, and clubs and is recommended by many boat manufacturers. You can insure your valuable rowing equipment with people who know and understand rowing.

POLICY DESCRIPTION

Equipment — Coverage is offered for rowing shells of all types, kayaks, canoes, training equipment such as ergometers, and coaching equipment such as launches and motors.

Service — The most compelling reason to insure your boat with us is our knowledge of rowing and equipment. We have over 75 years of rowing experience in our agency. “We Speak Rowing”

Location — Your equipment is insured anywhere in the continental United Stales and Canada. Special arrangements are available for overseas situations.

Coverages Provided — The equipment is covered for physical damage in a race, during practice, when being transported, and while in storage. The policy contains few exclusions.

Rate and Premium — The premium for this program is 4% of the value of the shell(s). There is a flat $250.00 deductible which will apply on all claims.No minimum annual premium.

Claims — Most claims can be handled directly by our office. This means that you are dealing with someone who knows and understands rowing and realizes that a Vespoli is not a type of pasta or that a bow ball is not a dance.

HOW TO LOCK UP YOUR ROWING SHELL

Local Phone (610) 667-3927 Fax (610) 667-7626 Toll Free 1-800-728-5537

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LITTLE RIVER MARINE offers a SURELOCK system, which locks a rowing shell to your car without a padlock or key; or it can be used to padlock a shell to trees or posts. SURELOCK is made of stainless steel cable construction and is fully padded to guard against scratches. Refer to price list for ordering information.

DO-IT--YOURSELF INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Take two 12-ft. strands of plastic coated wire or chain as found in bike shops.

2. Make a large loop at one end large enough to go around the end of the shell but not all the way through. It should snug up about 3 ft. from each end.

3. Make a small loop (6”) at the other end. It should be just large enough to put a Master Lock through it.

4. Be sure the small loop at both ends meet or overlap near the center of the shell.

5. Lock both loops to some permanent structure (i.e. ring, tree trunk, post) near the center of the shell. -

6. II you are storing the shell outside, be sure the shell is upside down and resting on the splash guards near the cockpit.

NOTE: A single loop system through the rib would be sufficient for the RIVERSHELL.

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR CAR RACKS AND STRAPS

This chapter is designed to instruct you on the proper use of car racks and straps. Please take the time to read this chapter before attempting to use them.

1. Place the two foam tubes on the coaming of the shell. Separate them according to the size of your vehicle’s rooftop. NOTE: If your car has roof racks, use the tubes to pad the car racks.

2. Make sure that there are no loose objects inside the shell. Flip it upside down, and gently lay it in place lengthwise near the center of the car with the -bow facing the front of the car. This assures proper balance for your shell. N OT E: The SSD can remain rigged for most cars, trucks, and vans if it is placed in the very center of the vehicle. If you are transporting two shells, remove the inner rigger of each, and lay the shells side by side. If your shell is a wing rigger, it is easier to remove the wing before loading

3. It is best to have at least two people when loading and unloading a shell. If you are loading alone, the best way is to s lid e the shell on from the side of the vehicle. Loading it sideways is also possible. Just be sure to raise the shell high enough so the rigger does not catch or scratch the roof of the vehicle.

4. Slide the loop end of the straps around the shell until they are directly above the front and rear bumpers. Do not attempt to tie the strap at an angle. Attach each “S” hook to the CORNERS OF THE BUMPER, NOT THE CENTER. Be sure they are in a hole, around a bar, or in some mechanism to keep them from sliding towards the center.

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5. Tighten down each strap firmly and equally. A good safety check is to try to slide the shell sideways on the roof. If it won’t slide or it feels like it’s sticking to the roof, then the straps are tight enough. Be sure the latch is LOCKED (aiming up the strap) on each strap. Take the excess strapping and tie half- hitches around each latch for added security.

HINTS* When tightening down the straps, pull down on one end until the loam block-s on the other end raise off the roof about 1/2” - 1”. Then, go to the other end and pull down on the straps until the blocks are back down firmly on the car.

* With many new vehicles, the bumpers are -smooth and unexposed. You may wants to screw in eyebolts underneath to make the job much easier, or you can drill a hole into each corner of the bumper.

* Make sure there is always a knot tied in the ends of each strap. DO NOT UNTIE THE KNOT! This will help secure the straps should the latch come undone while driving.

* Be sure there are equal lengths of excess strap beyond each latch, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRIVE OFF IF YOU CAN’T TIE AT LEAST ONE HALF-HITCH AROUND THE LATCH AFTER TIGHTENING THE STRAPS!!

* Spin the strap clockwise in your hand 5 or 6 times before hooking it into the bumper. This will help eliminate the strap from FLAPPING in the wind while driving (especially the front straps) Also tying the excess strap in half-hitches around the latch eliminates the strap from sIapping on the hood of your vehicle.

* Make sure to check the straps for tightness from time to time during long distance drives, overnight stays or in rainy weather.

* If the shell extends MORE THAN FOUR FEET beyond the bumpers, be sure to hang a red flag on the end of the shell. This i-s the law in many states.

* If your vehicle already has a permanent luggage rack installed, or you wish to use another manufacturers bar rack, you can adapt our rack to theirs by simply attaching the foam tubes to the crossbar rather than the shell. Turn the locks upside down around the bar or sideways with the open cut towards the rear of the vehicle, and slide them apart to match the width of the shell. Then place the shell down on the blocks making sure the splashguards touch the blocks.

* The type of car rack is not recommended for the OLYMPUS.

* Please remember that the extra time and care are always worth the effort, and this will help to ensure a safe and uneventful transportation of your shell.

TILE USER OF THE LITTLE RIVER CAR RACKS AND STRAPS ACKNOWLEDGES BOTH AN UNDERSTANDING AND AN ASSUMPTION OF THE RISK I NVOLVEI) IN PROPER USEVERSUS IMPROPER USE OF THIS PRODUCT. THE USER ALSO ACKNOWLEDGES THATHE/SHE HAS READ THIS MANUAL AND ACCEPTS FULL AND SOLE RESPONSIBILITYFOR ANY MISHAPS THAT MAY OCCUR AS A RESULT OF USING THIS PRODUCT.

The merchandise has been designed to give you lasting Performance with proper use. Should you have any questions concerning this product or any other related products, please call us at our toll free number 800-247-4591.

FIN INSTALLATION

Make sure that the slot in the hull is free from old adhesive fin and/or fragments of the old fin. Insert the new fin with the tapered end towards the bow.

Use a good quality silicone adhesive (3M or Polyseam sealant) to set the fin. Run a finger bead around the fin to ensure a good water tight seal. Align the fin with a piece of masking tape. Allow to dry before removing the tape.

NOTE: Be sure that the fin is standing -straight up without leaning.

NOTE: Be sure the section of fin that “fits” into the slot is well scuffed up or rough sanded.

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HERITAGE DORY

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RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS -

Your Dory can be rowed in three various options: as a single; a single with apassenger, or a double (if Ordered)...

TO ROW AS A SINGLE...

I) Screw the bench into the “center” position screwplates (along the sides of thecockpit liner), using the (2) 2 Y2” black handle bench knobs. Be sure the holdin the center of the bench is towards the bow (behind you as you row. .

2) Place the drop-in rowing station onto the bench with the “feet” end of themonorail matching up with the screwplate on the floor (towards the stern...)and the other end matching the hole in the monorail with the hole in thebench. Attach using the small 1” black knob to the floor screwplate, and the4” black knob and fender washer to the hole in the bench,

NOTE: If your rowing station comes to you unassembled (Fixed rigger type only)...

1) Flip the monorail section upside down, placing the “feet” end up on a chairand the other end down on the floor.

2) Unscrew the two large screws from the underside of the monorail (using anallen wrench)

3) Take the bent rigger bar section. . . hold it out in front of you as if laying iton a table (level). . . unfold the smaller tube rigger arms so they point awayfrom you. . . now lower the bar down onto the monorail until the holes matchup. . . screw tightly into place using the large allen bolts provided.

4) Take the entire unit and flip it back around right side up.5) Bend the small rigger arms back until they come flush up against the tower

(between the feet.. .). Be sure they’re on the inside of the tower, not theoutside; screw each one into the tower using the alien screws provided.

TO ROW AS A SINGLE WITH A PASSENGER...

You have a few options on how to position the bench while carrying extra gear or passengers.

1) Plan “A” — should always be to keep the bench in the center position. The Dory will row and maneuver more efficiently in this position. Smaller passengers and children can ride (sit) on both the bow or stern molded seat with you rowing in the center, the first option is to carry them in the stern seat facing you...

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2) Plan “B” — when carrying a larger passenger, have them sit in the stern molded seat (back of Dory). If you still notice the back end ‘dragging” or front end “plowing”, have your passenger move forward until they’re now sitting on the floor of the cockpit (bring along a PFD seat cushion for them to sit on). . . they will find it quite comfortable (as if sitting in a hottub), which will add more efficiency to your rowing.

NOTE: Remember Federal Laws require that all persons aboard a vessel must carry or wear a life preserver (PFD). It is also recommended that all children and/or persons unable to swim should wear their PFD’s at all times while aboard our rowing crafts.

TO ROW AS A DOUBLE...

Some of you have ordered your Dory with the Double option (the ability to be rowed by two people). You will then notice 3 sets of screw plates located in the cockpit.

I) Unscrew the bench from the center position screwplates, and reposition it back into the bow screwplates.

2) Take the 2~ bench and screw it into the stern set of screwplates, which willgive you a bench at both ends of the Dory (not in the center).

NOTE: If the bench seems too short to line up with the holes, simply “lean” your body against one side of the boat, reach across and grab the other side, and pull or squeeze it towards you — this will bring

the sides closer to each other.

3) Now screw the original rowing station into place using the bow bench and Floor screwplate.

4) The second rowing station can then be screwed into the stern bench and floor screwplate.

NOTE: We recommend that when rowing the HERITAGE as a double, you should place the more experienced rower in the bow station. This will allow he or she to keep an eye out for the less experienced partner (match their rowing stroke, counter their mishaps, stop when they stop, etc...) However, if this causes a weight imbalance (plowing vs. dragging) feel free to switch places and try it again.

BOW STERN

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2) If you purchased a DOUBLE, there is a short and a long pair of rigger arms -The SHORT pair are to be used in the BOW and CENTER rowing position; the LONGER pair is for the stern position.

3) IMPORTANT! Be sure you TIGHTEN the handle lever when the arms are locked in the rowing position; any looseness can cause damage to the “catch” which would change the angle of the arms for proper rowing. . . Also, the DOUBLE has 4 handles and 2 thumbscrews; be sure to ALWAYS use the handles with the rigger arms; the thumbscrews are used to simply fill the bracket holes that are NOT in use at that time. . . in other words, “swap” the thumbscrews with the handles when switching from single to double rowing.

4: NOTE: Anytime when removing the riggers, be sure to “plug the bracket hole with the RUBBER CAPS supplied with the DORY. You will find a pair of caps (for each pair of swing outs. . .) in the porthole storage bag.

SAFETY AND MAINTENANCE PRECAUTIONS

SAFETY

1) Some states require the HERITAGE to be licensed and/or registered. If so, you may need a Manufacturers Statement of Origin (MSO) to prove both ownership and value. This is due to the fact that the HERITAGE does have the option to be motorized (up to 2 HP), or your state simply requires all boating vessels to be registered. Check with your local Coast Guard, Fish & Game Department, or License and Tag Agency. If you need one, contact the factory and one will be provided.

2) Remember. . to carry a Coast Guard approved personal floatation devise (PFD) for each person on board at all times. Small children and those unable to swim should be encouraged to wear their PFD’s while on board.

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MISSING ILLUSTRATION

NOTE: Be sure to read and become familiar with both the WARNING LABEL and CAPACITY LABEL, located on the stern inner liner of the cockpit (inside the boat…) If for some reason your Dory does not have either of these, contact the factory IMMEDIATELY and we will send you new ones to attach.

3) If you plan to row for an extended time period, or beyond the site of land, we would suggest you carry along the following items:

a) plenty of fresh water (and food...)b) sun protection, including both lotion (UV protection—30) and the

appropriate clothing (hats, long sleeve shirts, sunglasses, etc...)c) waterproof flashlight and/or strobe light (allows you to signal for help

or notify other boaters of your position, especially at night...)d) bright colored hats and upper body clothing (which makes you more

visible to other boaters, especially fast moving motorized vessels...)

e) a bailing devise (sponge, bucket, etc.) in case of a sudden downpour or waver entering the HERITAGE

f) a long rope that can be attached to the bow tow-eye (allows you to “tie off” when needed ...)g) a small canoe paddle, which can be used to manually row to safety in

case the sculling stations fail to function...h) a whistle, and/or a flare gun, and/or an air horn. . . if your motto is “it’s better to be safe than

sorry”.

NOTE: REMEMBER, to always heed weather and water conditions before heading out to row. It’s smart to pre-check the weather channel and take visual sightings when planning your rowing routine, and then take the necessary precautions BEFORE you head out to sea — you’ll be glad you did.

4) In the event of a capsize, your HERITAGE has two large captured air pockets (the molded seats at each end of the cockpit) which should create enough floatation to keep both you and your vessel afloat. If possible, then the HERITAGE back to the upright position and bail out the remaining water. Your boat is still rowable with water in the cockpit.

MAINTENANCE

The following items should be implemented whenever possible to insure a properly maintained vessel, and to encourage a longer life, both functional and cosmetic,

1) NEVER LEAVE THE HERITAGE IN THE WATER for long periods of Time. A standard polyester gelcoat surface is on the hull, which can be porous if left in direct contact with water (there again, overtime. . .). You would need to apply a special fiberglass bottom coating paint, similar to what you’d find on larger vessels which are intended to rest in the water.

2) IF POSSIBLE, KEEP THE HERITAGE UNDERCOVER AND OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT. Over time, the UV rays can discolor, fatigue, and breakdown the function of the gelcoat surface. We make custom canvas covers for each model, which also keeps your cockpit clean and free of debris. (An excellent “insurance” program for your new boat!)

3) When the DORY is not being used (up and out of the water on the beach, the Dock, etc.) you should make it a habit to UNSCREW THE DRAINPLUG out of the cockpit. Even with a cover on, the elements can find a way in. . . this insures the Dory will not catch unwanted water while being stored.

NOTE: Remember to put the drainplug BACK IN before launching for the next row... It would also be wise to keep a SPARE drainplug in your “Murphy’s Law” tool kit...

4) When using the Dory IN SALTWATER, be sure to CLEAN THE ROWING STATION with fresh water. All your parts are either stainless steel or anodized aluminum; it is always smart to keep them clean — don’t allow the saltwater to “dry” or “cake” on the parts.

5) KEEP ALL OF THE MOVING PARTS CLEAN AND DRY. The rowing Station is made of aluminum and self-lubricated plastic parts; they will perform their best if just kept clean and free from sand or grit. Adding lubricants (oils, sprays, grease) are not needed and only hinders its ability to stay “grit-free”.

6) There is a screw-type drainplug on the back transom of the Dory. . . it is intended to remove unwanted water (even condensation) from between the cockpit liner and the hull.

It is recommended TO REMOVE THIS DRAINPLUG ONCE A MONTH to allowthe sealed cavity to ventilate and remove any unwanted moisture. THIS IS IMPORTANT . . .

PLEASE BE SURE TO TAKE THE TIME TO DO THIS!

7) Your fiberglass hull and liner should be THOROUGHLY CLEANED AND WAXED I TO 2 TIMES A YEAR. Most standard cleaning products (409, Windex, Ivory Dishwashing soap and a scrub brush) can be used to do the appropriate job. For tougher stains and marks you can soak a clean rag with “acetone” (fingernail polish remover) and rub the area; just be sure NOT to touch the rubrails, stickers or plastic parts, as acetone can damage them.

To prepare the HERITAGE for waxing:- thoroughly clean the area as described above- (Optional.. .) if the fiberglass is faded, take a fine grit rubbing compound and buff the area

with a high speed buffing pad. This will bring back the “sheen” of the glass.

- Use a quality handrubbed wax made especially for fiberglass (not carwax). You can also use a polymer based product (such as Poly Glow or Liquid Glass) which protects from oxidation and makes it much easier to clean the Dory.

8) The bottom of the Skiff has been “beefed up” for its ability to be dragged, slid, and rested on its surface; however, we always recommend to USE A SMOOTH OR APPROPRIATE SURFACE TO SLIDE OR REST THE KEEL. For example, if sliding over the edge of a dock, place a rug or piece of carpet over the edge, or attach a small trailer-type “roller” . . this is not only safer, but the Dory will slide much easier (especially at a deep angle) due to the “smooth” surface.

9) Moving the Dory around (from the beach back up to the house, from the car down to the lake, etc. . .) can be made a ONE-PERSON operation with the use of a HAND DOLLY or PULL CART. It easily rests under the middle of the Dory, balancing its weight, allowing the handler to grab the bow cap and simply push or pull it to their destination. We offer a balloon tire dolly (see Accessories Catalogue) that can travel through softer terrain (grass, sand, etc.).

10) Dory storage — The Dory should never be left for extended periods (even overnight) HANGING FROM DAVIT’S OR OTHER “SLING” DEVICES. If you must, use a sling under the hull (NOT HOOKED TO THE BOW AND STERN TOWEYE.. . ) and make it mandatory to pull both the cockpit and the liner drain plugs.

11) If your HERITAGE came with a porthole cover/storage bag in the bow liner, just remember IT IS NOT 100% WATERTIGHT. If the cockpit filled with water,, it would slowly “seep” through the cover and into the liner of your hull. To prevent this, once again, be sure to pull the cockpit drainplug when storing on land upright.

12) If you purchased a cover for your skiff, notice that when the swing riggers areFolded IN towards each other, they are angled up at about 45 degrees- this creates a “tent” affect for the cover which will help shed undue water and rain.

NOTE: Be sure to ‘pad” the top of each oarlock with a sock or soft material to prevent the canvas from chaffing or rubbing a hole through the cover.

HAPPY ROWING!!

Continued from p. 13’

Continued from p. 13’