Water Stewardship - Textile Exchange
Transcript of Water Stewardship - Textile Exchange
Water Stewardship
Naomi RosenthalSouth Pole
Principal, deputy director sustainable supply
chains
Alexis MorganWWF
www.sli.do · Event code: H20
Alice Hartley GAP Inc.
Senior Manager, Sustainable Innovation
Interdisciplinary team of scientists, project developers, financing experts and communication gurus.
We help brands bring their vision to life through credible, authentic, and impactful climate action.
South Pole makes climate action happen
South Pole’s work with the fashion industry
1.Understand water risks
and impacts 2. Develop
strategies to address these
3. Implement customized programs
and projects
Example: water footprint assessment for a fashion collection Example: water stewardship
strategy at a textile facility north of Delhi, India
Example: landscape based action in cotton landscapes in China and India
Our clients in the fashion industry include:
Our mission is to stop the degradation of our planet's natural environment, and build a future in which people live in harmony with nature.
WWF, the Global Conservation Organization
WWF’s work on textiles
CottonTargets & strategies for
sustainable sourcing
Water StewardshipFrom water risk to response: internal, collective action &
influencing governance
ClimateScience-based targets, on-ground projects & policy engagement
Other materialsTools to assess holistic
impacts & circularity
Business models
Exploring alternative models for sustainable
consumption & circularity
L to R: © Asim Hafeez / WWF-UK, Audra Melton / WWF-US, Global Warming Images / WWF, WFN,
Policy engagement, alignment, and strategic positioning
Communication: outreach & education
Understand your impacts
Water impacts across the textile industry
Raw Material Production Fiber Processing
Office, Retail, Distribution Centers
Textile Manufacturing
Raw materialsFarming natural fibersExtracting polyester based fibers
Garment Manufacturing
Water use in factoriesCleaning, Chemical treatment, Dyeing
Implementing energy efficiency measuresCollaborate with suppliers to become more energy efficient
Human useCleaning, toilets, drinking water
Logistics service providersDevelop strategies to ensure
water resourcse are safeguarded during logistics
Our global water crisis What does fashion have to do with it?
Our global water crisis
Where do our clothes come from?
8%
21%
65%
5%
Wool (1%)
Raw materials:
Others
Raw materials:
Synthetics
Raw materials:
Cotton
Raw materials:
Cellulosics
Raw materials:
Our global water crisis
Water quantity
Water Quantity
Global average in m3
Production(1 ton) Lint Yarn Fabric
8506
8864
18583 35953
SubtotalFinishedfabric
Carding and
knitting
Example: Cotton Fabric
1 pair of jeans: 10.85 m3
1 single bed sheet:
9.75 m31 T-shirt:
2.72 m3
Example water footprints:
Harvest and ginning
Dyeing
Use phase
Important to always consider the context of where and when that water is used
• Is the area impacted by water scarcity?• Does the water use impact water quality? • How does the water quantity and quality impact other water
users?
• Farm practices differ strongly by region – this has a major impact on blue and green water footprint
• Efficient dying processes can result in reductions
Our global water crisis
Water QualityExample: Polyester
Oil exploration Refining and Petrochemical
Polymerization and fabric
Wastewater from oil fields (or produced water) may contain:
• Benzene• Lead• Arsenic• Salt• Chemical
additives
Water quality issues
Wastewater from processing may contain
• Phenol• Benzene• Lead• Arsenic
Fabric processing and finishing produces high quantities of wastewater, as seen below (m3/ton).
Water access, sanitation and hygiene (WASH) are essential for health and well-being. Guaranteeing access in local communities and at the workplace is one of the Sustainable Development Goals.
Our global water crisisWater Access, Sanitation and Hygiene (WASH)
WorkplaceDirect OperationsFactories, thread mills, retail locations
Indirect OperationsFarms, raw materials processing facilities, distribution and logistics
Local CommunityBeyond the fenceWorkers’ homes and communities around direct operations’ facilities
Water, as a fundamental human right, is the quintessential common pool resource. Water is publicly controlled, makinggovernance the basis of all water challenges and a critical Sustainable Development Goal target.
Our global water crisisWater Governance
WorkplaceInternal water governanceHow water is governed across operations and corporate levels
BasinGovernance of the local supplies & demandsHow water is governed within the basin informswater balance & quality
Nationally & TransboundaryWater is not simply a matter of basingovernance; it is moved and forms both conflictand drives cooperation across borders
Source: Faronosi et al.(2018)
Freshwater species are in worse condition than any other group: they’ve seen an 83% decline since 1970.
Our global water crisisFreshwater Ecosystems
83% ↓
Source: WWF (2018)
Understand your risks (& response options)
Water risk: from impacts to dependencies
Basin impacts & dependencies
Physical risk
Regulatory risk
Reputational risk
Operational impacts & dependencies
Physical risk
Regulatory risk
Reputational risk
WATER RISK EXPOSURE
(i.e., the nature of your business & your operational
practices)
(i.e., the nature of your basin –
contextual water status)
Water risk: from risk to financial impact
Plachimada, KeralaA major F&B company was shut down due to community protests for water abstraction & pollution (2004) = Reputational risk
Tirupur, Karnataka700 textile SMEs were shut down due to concerns of water pollution (2011) = Regulatory risk
Farakka, West BengalA coal-fired power plant shut down five of six turbines due to water scarcity (2018) = Physical risk
Tuticorin, Tamil NaduState government shut down a copper plant on groundwater contamination concerns (2018) = Regulatory risk
Operational expendituresCapital expendituresAdministrative & staffing expendituresCompliance & legal expendituresLost production/revenueBrand & sales
=
Specifics of water risks assessments
Water risks can include:• Physical• Regulatory• Reputational
Use multiple, peer-reviewed data sources whenever possible
Consider business operations andpriorities
Use local and company-specific dataResults in clear, contextual responses
From risk to response: context & scale
Water stewardship
Water Stewardship is the use of water that is socially and culturally equitable, environmentally sustainable and economically beneficial, achieved through a stakeholder-inclusive process that involves site-and catchment-based actions.
- Alliance for Water Stewardship (2019)
© A. Morgan
The Alliance for Water Stewardship
© A. Morgan
Tropical Mix Land Restoration, Panama
Take action!
WOMEN + WATER STRATEGYAlice Hartley, Gap Inc.
WOMEN + WATER
WOMEN
80% OFGARMENTWORKERS
20% OFFRESHWATER POLLUTION
WATER
G L O B A L A P P A R E L I N D U S T R Y
Source: IFC report: Global Apparel Supply ChainSource: NRDC's Clean by Design Initiative
1000 GALLONS TO PRODUCE1 PAIR OF JEANS
200 MILLION HOURS SPENTCOLLECTING WATER
Source: Gap Inc. LCA
Source: UNICEF
GAP INC. COMMITMENTS2020 GOALS
WATER & CHEMICALS
Reduce water use during product manufacturing processes
Improve safe access to clean water
Eliminate hazardous chemicals (ZDHC)
WORKER WELL-BEING
Eliminate red rated vendors
Reach 1 million women through P.A.C.E.
10,000 teens and young adults to participate in This Way Ahead
ENERGY & WASTE
50% carbon emissions reduction for global operations
80% waste diversion from U.S. facilities
WATER STEWARDSHIP STRATEGY
Education & knowledge about water, sanitation & hygiene (WASH) and improved access to WASH services and products
PRODUCT DESIGN MANUFACTURING WOMEN
Our strategy is focused on improving water stewardship in the areas where we have control and influence, and supporting access to water for women and communities touched by our business
Smarter product design prioritizing water reduction through manufacturing techniques & process efficiency
Improve practices at fabric mills & laundries to reduce use of water and chemicals
Education & knowledge about water, sanitation & hygiene (WASH) and improved access to WASH services and products
WATER
2
10
2
80
588
65
1
12
22
85
ENERGY CHEMICALS
Yarn Spinning Fabric Production Dyeing & Finishing Garment Manufacture
RESOURCE USE IN DYEING & FINISHINGDISTRIBUTION OF WATER, ENERGY & CHEMICAL USE IN TEXTILE PROCESSING (% OF TOTAL USE)
Product Design
RAW MATERIALS
FABRIC CREATIONGARMENT CONSTRUCTION
USE & CARE
END OF USE
• WATER QUALITY PROGRAM
• WASHWELL PROGRAM• INDIGO DYEING
ManufacturingOUR MILL SUSTAINABILITY PROGRAM TAKES A HOLISTIC, PHASED, AND IMPACT-DRIVEN APPROACH.
Gap’s Minimum Expectations
Sustainable Apparel Coalition – Higg Facility Environment Modules (FEM) 3.0
Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) – MRSL and Wastewater Guidelines Testing Program
Social & Labor Convergence Project (SLCP)
Mill Efficiency Programs
Water Goal Progress and Apparel Impact Institute
• Identify• Fund• Scale• Measure
https://apparelimpact.org/
Women
GAP INC. P.A.C.E. (Personal Advancement &
Career Enhancement)
WATER, SANITATION & HYGIENE (WASH)
WATERSTEWARDSHIPwith industry
W+W ALLIANCE LOCATIONSINDIA
U S A I D + G A P I N C . | W O M E N + W A T E R A L L I A N C E
Significance to apparel industry: Primarily cotton growing districts
State population: 112 millionRural share: 55%Poverty rate (rural): 24%
MAHARASHTRAYavatmal and Wardha
Significance to apparel industry: Districts along Narmada river basin and presence of textile mills
State population: 73 millionRural share: 72%Poverty rate (rural): 36%
MADHYA PRADESHSehore, Indore, Dewas, Dhar and Khandwa
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A L L I A N C E D I S T R I C T S
Women’s Agency and Self-Efficacy
FinancingGovernance
Water Stewardship
USAID GAP INC. WOMEN + WATER ALLIANCE: IMPACT (2018)
5,000 WASH loans$1.2 M
Water stewardship pilots:• Cotton• Mill (Vardhman)
20,000 reached
Video – Stories of Change
https://www.globalwaters.org/resources/videos/women-water/gap-usaid-women-water-alliance-stories-change-2019
Tropical Mix Land Restoration, Panama
Deep dives
Deep dive 1
Inside operations Beyond the fence
vs.
Inside operations
Inside operations
Develop strategies for increasing water efficiency (or eliminating use).
○ Use dope dyeing for synthetic fibers to reduce intensity of dyeing process
○ Digital printing to minimize water use during washing and fixing
Minimize the use of chemicals and implement a wastewater strategy.
○ Remove harmful chemicals from the manufacturing process
○ Consider implementing a solution for microplastics (filters, treatments, pre-washing)
Ensure the implementation of WASH policies.
○ Clean water and enough toilets and handwashing facilities in manufacturing locations
○ Provide sanitation and hygiene workshops where necessary
Inte
rnal
ac
tions
Water Quantity Water Quality WASH
Stan
dard
s an
d La
bels
Beyond the fenceUnderstanding water use from a watershed perspective
Towns Cities
Farms
Industries
Nature
Energy
Business impacts on the watershed:
● quality: potential harms to water quality, exacerbation of water availability, effects over local ecosystems
● quantity: water shortages and low water quality may affect consumers impacting product sales
Watershed risks on business ops.:
● direct operations: interruptions in production due to water shortages, low water quality, etc.
● value chain: disruption in supply of raw materials, difficulties in logistics and distribution, etc.
Deep dive 2
Scaling through Industrial Park Stewardship (China) Scaling through Bankable Nature Solutions (Turkey)
vs.
Taihu & Suzhou area:
• 37% of the national textile production
• 50 National Industrial Parks
• 10,000 dyeing & printing units in Jiangsu
• Wetland loss & water quality challenges
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Scaling through a multi-level Industrial Park stewardship
Photos: Hohai University, Nanjing, China
A multi-level stewardship pathway for the fashion industry in China
National Level Basin Level Industrial Park Level Site Level
Green technologies &
standard promotion
Basin transparency and stakeholders
roundtable
• Awareness raising• Capacity Building• Best practice sharing• Guidelines development
Reduce shared water risks for business, ecosystem and communities
Water Stewardship in China: Industrial Parks & AWS
Scaling through Bankable Nature Solutions for Textiles
Fun
ds
Year 1
Year 0
Year 3
Year 2
Year 5
Year 4
SEED FUNDING• WWF• Grants• Donors• Corporates• Development Banks
INVESTMENT• Banks• Development Banks• Investors• HNWIs
REPLICATE AND SCALE• Retail Investors• Institutional Banks• HNWIs
Bankable Nature Solutions:Leveraging Capital for Water
1x
~20x
~50-100x
Farming
Deep dive 3Cotton value chain: Farming vs. dying
Dyeing
Deep dive 3Cotton farming
Top 5 2014 Cotton Lint producers
2014 production in thousands of tonnes (FAO Stat)
WRI Water Stress Map - India USDA Map - Cotton Production in India
Cotton by the numbers
2.4 percent of the world’s arable land 24 percent of the world’s insecticide market11 percent of the sale of global pesticide73 percent of cotton is irrigated land.
Deep dive 3Cotton dyeing
Photo Credit: Lu Guang/Greenpeace
• Dyeing cotton is often a more water and heat intensive process than dyeing polyester
• Cotton often only takes up only 75% of dyes used, even when salts and alkali are added to the solution
• It is possible to avoid dyeing all together (undyed cotton – also in colors), use low impact dyes, or natural dyes
• Important to evaluate wastewater management strategy at production facility
• OEKO-TEX, Bluesign and GOTS can be beneficial to ensuring minimum requirements are met
… here is what you can do next
Mount Sandy Biodiversity, EcoAustralia: Mount Sandy brings together indigenous and non-indigenous communities of Australia by promoting traditional land management for biodiversity conservation
Textiles production and processing regions
WWF On Ground programmesPotential WWF work
WWF textiles partnership
Turkey
Pakistan
India
Vietnam
China
HSBC, H&M, Tommy Hilfiger,
Target and Tchibo
HSBC, Tommy Hilfiger and SDC
HSBC, PVH and IKEA
H&M, IKEA and Tchibo
WWF on-ground work on WATER and textiles
Levi Strauss &
Co.
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