VIA Nho Vietnam Alumni Newsletter (Winter 2007)

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    Nho VietnamAn Update for Alumni and Friends of the Vietnam Program

    Volume III, Issue I Winter 2007

    Alumni Create Academic Ties to VietnamAlumni Peter Zinoman

    (90) and Davig Biggs (93)

    build U.S - Vietnam ties as

    faculty of UC Berkeley and

    Riverside.

    Left: Peter Zinoman shares his VIA experience at VIAs 15th Anniversary in Vietnam reception.

    Right: David Biggs and students from last years UC Riverside summer travel study program in

    Hue (Photo by David Biggs).

    Vietnam Alumni Focus Academic Paths on VietnamMitch Aso, 99-00University of Wisconsin-Madison,History of Science Department

    Research interest: Health andenvironmental changes in Southern

    Vietnam during the colonial period, in

    particular, on rubber plantations.

    Va Cun, 04University of California-Berkeley,Group in Asian StudiesResearch interest: Gender and human

    rights in contemporary Vietnam, in

    particular, on young female migrant

    workers in Ho Chi Minh City

    sweatshops.

    Kristy Kelly, 92-96University of Wisconsin-Madison,Department of Educational Policy

    StudiesResearch Interest: Dissertation is pre-

    liminarily titled Learning to Mainstream

    Gender in Vietnam - Where Equity

    Meets Locality in UN Development

    Policy - a sociology of gender study that

    asks questions about citizenship and na-

    tionhood in relation to gender equality.

    Jack Merchant, 02-03University of Michigan, Center forSoutheast Asian StudiesResearch Interest: Vietnamese history,

    predominately late 18th and early 19th

    century, specifically through the lenses

    of poetry and literature. Thesis

    concerns Truyen Kieu, the 18thcentury Vietnamese literature move-

    ment, the feminine role in literature

    and what this says about women in

    Vietnamese society during this period.

    Diane Fox, 00University of Washington,Department of Anthropology; Hamil-ton College, Scholar in ResidenceResearch Interest: The long-term

    environmental and health consequenc-

    es of war; oral histories.

    In 1990, Peter Zinoman was one of the

    first three volunteers sent to VIAsnewest country program, Vietnam.

    Today, Peter is a southeast Asian history

    professor at UC Berkeley and director of

    the Center for Southeast Asian Studies.

    Last year, Peter helped launch the

    Journal of Vietnamese Studies (JVS).

    JVS is a new journal that promotes and

    publishes original social science and

    humanities research about Vietnamese

    history, politics, culture and society,

    as well as Vietnam-related topics that

    have traditionally been set apart from

    mainstream area studies scholarship

    such as the Vietnamese diaspora and theVietnam War.

    According to Peter, the idea to found

    JVS grew out of an observation that

    although Vietnamese Studies has been

    growing rapidly since the late 1980s the

    field did not possess its own academic

    journal. I had been troubled by the

    absence of a scholarly journal devoted to

    Vietnam Studies since Yale Universitys

    journal The Vietnam Forum shut down in

    the mid-1990s, said Peter.

    With a colleague at UC Riverside,

    Mariam Lam, Peter raised grant money

    for the project, approached University

    California Press about publishing the

    journal and set up an administrative of-

    fice at UC Berkeley.According to Peter, the presence of

    a journal is important to a field since it

    provides scholars with a forum to publish

    their research. In addition, the avail-

    ablity of an academic forum is especially

    crucial for young scholars who need to

    publish in order to get jobs and secure

    tenure in a very competitive academic

    market.

    David Biggs, a fellow alumni who

    volunteered for one year in 1993, has

    also created ties between Vietnam and

    his university, UC Riverside (UCR). David

    studied southeast Asian history at the

    University of Washington (1996-2000)

    and undertook field research in Vietnam

    through a Fulbright scholarship (2000-2002). Since 2004, David has taught

    courses such as Vietnam and its Wars:

    Modern Vietnamese History as assistant

    professor in the history department at

    UCR.

    Last year, David launched UCR

    Cont. on Page 3

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    By Diane Fox, 00

    In 1997, while I was talking with a

    student in Hue, I was surprised by a

    sharp whack to my shoulder. Why hasnt

    your country done anything to help the

    people it hurt during the war? my as-

    sailant wanted to know. She was thinking

    in particular of the people hurt by Agent

    Orange. So much for easy stereotypes

    of the refined and demure Hue woman,and the easy response visiting Americans

    report when they try to bring up war:

    Oh, that was a long time ago.

    Like landmines and unexploded ordi-

    nance (UXO), Agent Orange is a vestige

    from that long ago that continues to

    cause harm in the present, both to the

    land and health of Vietnam and to rela-

    tions between the US and Vietnam. In

    2002 Ambassador Burkhart called it the

    one significant ghost from the war still

    troubling the improvement of relations;

    his Vietnamese counterpart called it

    chemical warfare. The figures are hard

    to calculate for a number of reasons,

    but a minimum of 10% of the land of the

    south was denuded by the chemicals,

    including roughly 30% of the upland for-

    ests, 30-50% of the coastal mangroves,

    and 50% of some provinces. Between two

    to seven million people were exposed

    to the spray, and unknowable numbers

    affected by the dioxin it contained as an

    impurity. Though controversies remain,

    dioxin has been linked by international

    and US government agencies to several

    forms of cancer as well as troubles of

    the endocrine, nervous, circulatory and

    reproductive systems.

    My first response to my interlocutors

    question was to write an article for Viet

    Nam News based on interviews with Dr.

    Nguyen Viet Nhan (see box on the next

    page about the Chris Jenkins Fund), who

    at that time was writing a dissertation

    on the link between birth defects and

    genetic change. My second response was

    to help translate a book by the late Dr.

    Le Cao Dai, then head of the Vietnamese

    Red Cross Agent Orange Victims Fund.

    With the help of Dr. Dai and the Inter-

    national Federation of Red Cross, I then

    conducted interviews with families the

    Red Cross called the disabled poor, in-

    cluding those thought to be affected by

    Agent Orange. In the meantime, I had

    gone back to school in anthropology, and

    those interviews became the basis of a

    dissertation and three published articles.

    This year both the Ford Founda-

    tion and Ambassador Michael Marine

    have declared their intention to make

    progress on Agent Orange, and military

    to military cooperation is underway to

    clean up the dioxin remaining around

    the airbase in Da Nang. (While most of

    the dioxin has long since washed down

    the slopes of the Truong Son and into

    the world ecosystem, it remains con-

    centrated in certain hot spots, such as

    around bases, where Agent Orange was

    intensively and repeatedly sprayed.)

    Charles Bailey, Representative of Viet-

    nam and Thailand at the Ford Founda-tion, says greater US public awareness

    and engagement with the issue would

    help move things along. The Agent

    Orange Education Project and Resource

    Center is trying to foster just thatand

    thats where we would love to invite any

    former VIA volunteers who have an inter-

    est in this issue to participate in whatev-

    er way you can, be it large or small. On

    the next page you will find some ideas.

    We welcome others!

    Vietnam, Agent Orange and anInvitation to VIA Alumni

    Diane Fox, 00, is coordi-

    nating the Agent Orange

    Education Project and

    Resource Center. What

    follows is an introduction

    to that work, and an invi-tation to those who would

    like to be involved.

    Left: Families in

    Thai Binh affected

    by Agent Orange.

    Below: Diane Fox

    presenting on the

    impact of Agent

    Orange (Photos by

    Diane Fox).

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    Raise the issue at meetings you attendthat touch on related issues, for ex-

    ample: Environmental (environmental

    impact of war on site and linked to do-mestic); Issues at the points of manufac-

    ture and testing; Health (the long term

    health consequences of war; opportuni-

    ties to address them); Religious (ethics,

    responsibility, compassion); Civic groups

    (eg: Rotary works on UXO issues; suggest

    Agent Orange as well).

    Host or make contact for an informa-tional or fundraising event in yourhome, workplace, community group,

    school, art museum, religious or other

    organization, using some of the materi-

    als above.Speak with or write a letterto yourcongressman, pointing out the im-

    portance of this issue for US-Vietnam

    relations (Let us know if you want to be

    contacted for more targeted efforts in

    the future).

    Help us improve our website or suggestplaces we can apply to fund our work.

    Contribute to the Chris Jenkins Fund(see below) or other groups on our web-

    site and in our fact sheet.

    Suggest (and help organize, if you can!)other approaches and projects.

    The Chris Jenkins Memorial Fund

    The Chris Jenkins memorial fund honors the memory of Chris Jenkins, 66,

    former Vietnam volunteer and long time mentor to several generations of

    Vietnam volunteers, beloved by many for his gentle spirit, warm twinkle, and

    life-long work in Vietnam and the US for justice, peace, and public health.

    The fund is dedicated to improving the health and living conditions of poor

    people in and near Hue, a city of special significance to Chris and his wife,

    former VIA board member Tran Khanh Tuyet.

    Donors can designate their funds for one of the following projects:

    1. Support for the work of Dr. Nguyen Viet Nhan in Hue who, as Deanof Physiology at Hue Medical School and Director of the Office for Genetic

    Counseling and Disabled Children, arranges for surgeries and rehabilitation for

    families who cannot afford them, runs a school for blind children, a workshop

    for the deaf, a school for special education and project to integrate the dis-

    abled into public schools, as well as his genetic counseling office, for which he

    needs equipment. More info about these projects can be found online at

    www.ogcdc.org.

    2. Support to a village near Hue for small income-generating loans, house

    repair, education, rehabilitation or medicine.

    For more information, please contact Diane Fox at [email protected],

    or at 917 232 5109.

    Summer Travel Study program at

    Hue Universitys College of Foreign

    Languages and will be running the

    program again this year. The program

    includes a course on Modern Vietnam-

    ese History, Vietnamese culture and

    language, and short trips to historical

    sites.Davis is proud of helping to provide

    positive educational experiences for

    his students, especially coming from

    UCR where classes are large and stu-

    dents receive less personal attention.

    This study program is limited to 20

    students and language tutorials have a

    teacher-student ratio of 1 to 3 or less.

    In addition, David sees the program as

    offering heritage students an exciting

    way to visit Vietnam. UCR has the

    greatest number of students of south-

    east Asian heritage for any research

    university in the country. David hopesto develop an endowment and private

    contributions to create travel contri-

    butions for students on financial aid:

    I hope that the program will appeal

    to Vietnamese American communities,

    and perhaps they may be interested

    in supporting the program to benefit

    Vietnamese heritage students.

    Issues 1 and 2 of JVS are available

    at: http://ucpressjournals.com. More

    information about UCR Vietnam Sum-

    mer Travel Program is available at:

    Alumni Connections toVietnam (cont.)

    Speakers: From the perspectives ofscience, anthropology, the environment,

    and public health.

    Videos: Six different videos fromVietnam, the US and Canada, ranging

    from 28 minutes to an hour. Some of the

    videos focus more on families in Viet-

    nam, some on the remediation efforts

    of Americans and others, some on the

    lawsuit currently in US courts. Some

    are meant to shock, others to promote

    reflection. All call for action.

    4 exhibits: 1. Suffering and Smiles,black and white photos by Doan Duc

    Minh, Saigon. 2. Silent Spring: Agent

    Orange, 40 years of black and whitephotos by Japanese journalist Goro

    Nakamura; Vietnam, US, and elsewhere.

    3. 30 posters from a contest run by the

    Vietnamese artists association, along

    with a menu of works from other art-

    ists in Vietnam and the US. 4. Agent

    Orange: Collateral Damage in Vietnam,

    black and white photos by Phillip Jones

    Griffiths. (Each of these exhibits can

    stand alone or be supported by continu-

    ous loop videos, small photo albums,

    stories, and ways for viewers to contrib-

    ute their thoughts).

    Other: Website at www.warlegacies.org,fact sheet and resource list.

    What the ResourceCenter Can Offer:

    Some Things You Can Do:

    An Invitation to Alumni (cont.)

    Reflection and smiles in Quang Tho (Photo by

    Diane Fox).

    A mother and son living in Dong Nai. (Photo

    by Diane Fox).

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    Thank yous:

    We couldntdo it without

    you!

    HCMC Holiday DinnerSpecial thanks to Fred Burke and hiswife, Loan, for hosting a Christmas

    dinner for staff and current volun-

    teers at their home in HCMC.

    National Recruitment FairsOur incredible network of alumni

    are helping us outreach to campuses

    nationwide! This year, VIA attended

    3 campus fairs for the first time:

    Patty Esposito (New York Universty),

    Virginia Player (Seattle University),

    and Mitch Aso and My Linh Do (Univer-

    sity of Madison, Wisconsin)

    National InterviewsJohn Trien, Van Tran, Kristyn Ha,

    Adam Briones, Diane Nguyen, Mai

    Tran, Jack Bailey, Rachel Chaney,David Biggs, Adrian Khactu, Rommel

    Calderwood, Patty Esposito, Sharla

    Dodd, and James Vest

    Hanoi Reunion and Justins FarewellAnn Le, Patrick Carpenter, Vinh

    Nguyen, Amy Cherry, and Julie Vo

    Tet Festival in San FranciscoPatricia Fieldsted, Jennie Mollica,

    Paul Langner, Tom Burrow, Danielle

    Bird-Robinson, and Daniel Mandell

    Nho Vietnam ContributorsDiane Fox, Peter Zinoman, Jeff Bet-

    tencourt, David Biggs, Kristi Smith,

    Lillian Forsyth, and Amy Cherry

    Special thanks to Patty Esposito andLorene Strand. Patty is helping VIAwith our Ford Foundation-funded

    alumni survey. Loreneis creating atemplate for a post-specific teaching

    and resource manual.

    Measuring the Impact

    VIA Conducts Alumni SurveyDid your VIA experience lead you to

    an Asia-related career? Are you still

    committed to public service? Do you

    look back and think that youre a much

    better person because of your VIA expe-

    rience?These, or similiar questions, will be

    posed to all VIA Vietnam alumni this year

    through a project generously funded by

    the Ford Foundation.

    Beginning in the spring, VIA will con-

    duct an online survey of approximately

    200 former volunteers of the Vietnam

    program. We recognize that in our 15

    years of service, many acaemic paths,

    career choices, and life directions have

    been directly impacted by a VIA experi-

    ence.

    The purpose of this survey will be

    to inform VIA of this impact, to gatheruseful information to apply for future

    funding, and to create a stronger com-

    munity for alumni to reconnect and

    share resources.

    Currently, VIA is in the process of col-

    lecting and verifying email addresses. In

    a couple months, a short online survey

    will be emailed to you. For those who

    are interested in more in-depth discus-

    sions, we will also be asking for volun-

    teers to participate in phone interviewsand regional focus groups.

    We look forward to your participa-

    tion. Thank you!

    How You Can Help:

    1. Tell friends from your VIA cohortthat were conducting a survey. Wemay not have their most up-to-dateemail addresses.

    2. Complete the brief online survey tobe released in the spring.

    3. Volunteer to participate in a phoneinterview or regional focus group.Focus groups will be conducted in NewYork and San Francisco. The New Yorkfocus group will be held Sunday, May20, 2007 from 10:30 am - 1 pm.

    San Francisco Reunions:Asian American Films and Tet Festival

    Coming Up3/17:

    Once again, VIA isproud to be a co-present-

    er for the San Francisco International

    Asian American Film Festival, running

    March 15-27, 2007.

    This year, join VIA staff and alumni

    for these two films on Saturday, March

    17:

    Saturday, March 17 at 2:45 pmNerakhoun: The Betrayal

    Comprised of interviews, archival

    footage, and verite sequences span-

    ning two decades, this documentarya

    collaboration between famed cinema-tographer Ellen Kuras and its primary

    subject, Thavisouk Phrasavathuses

    one familys emotional story to expose

    the disastrous effects of U.S. involve-

    ment in Laos. (AMC 1000 Van Ness)

    Saturday, March 17 at 7:30 pmOh, Saigon

    Accompanied by gripping images

    from the war, OH, SAIGON is a compel-

    ling documentary of how one refugee

    family attempts to survive the physical

    and emotional wounds of the conflict

    in Vietnam by healing political differ-

    ences, and by having faith in family.

    (AMC 1000 Van Ness)

    Last Month:On Sunday, February 11, Vietnam

    alumni spanning 10 years (from 94 to

    04) came out for Northern Vietnam-

    ese eats and the annual San Francisco

    Tet Festival in San Franciscos LittleSaigon neighborhood in the Tenderloin

    district.

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    Introducing... Three New Posts in Vietnam!

    Vietnam Plus

    Post Description: This post is by far our most rural placement - Long My is toosmall to even be classified as a city! Vietnam Plus is a Belgian-French NGO

    which operates community development and poverty reduction programs in

    Vietnam.

    VIAs Role: Jeff Bettencourt and Kristi Smith are our two brave volunteers atnew post Vietnam Plus in Long My district. Jeff and Kristi are responsible for

    teaching English to local officials, high school teachers, and staff of Vietnam

    Plus.

    Long My District, Hau Giang Province

    Post Description: Formerly the Nha Trang University of Fisheries, Nha TrangUniversity (NTU) only this past year dropped Fisheries in its move to

    become a multidisciplinary institution. A majority of NTU students are from

    families of fishermen and receive scholarships to attend NTU.

    VIAs Role: Tom McAuliff and Janella Pennington, a husband and wife teamfrom Vermont, signed up to be the first VIA volunteers at the beautiful, sea-

    side Nha Trang University. NTU began offering an English major only three

    years ago. Tom and Janella teach English to 1st and 2nd year English majors

    and co-teach continuing education courses with fellow VIetnamese teachers.

    Nha Trang, Ninh Thuan Province

    Can Tho University

    Post Description: Can Tho University is the premier 4-year university of theMekong Delta, attracting the brightest and most talented students from its

    17 provinces.

    VIAs Role: Chioke Borgelt-Mose and Tambi Cork, both recent Stanford Uni-versity graduates, teach in the English department and Center for ForeignLanguages (CFL). At the CFL, Chioke and Tambi also work with the Mekong

    1000 group, a government-sponsored program to prepare 1000 profession-

    als from the Mekong Delta region for advanced study abroad. Chioke and

    Tambi have facilitated discussions ranging from Proper Citation of Sources in

    Academic Papers to Social Mixers.

    Can Tho, Can Tho Province

    In 2006, VIA opened three new posts in Southern Vietnam. This move

    heralds an exciting direction for the Vietnam program - towards areas

    with more need for native English speakers. Read about our newest

    Vietnam posts and meet the volunteers who are posted there.

    Nha Trang University

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    By Kristi Smith, 06

    Jeff and I have been living in a small

    town called Long My since late August.

    It is in Hau Giang Province, about 90

    minutes by bus from Can Tho City, thebig city of the Mekong Delta. It is a new

    and very poor province and we are the

    only westerners living in it.

    As VIA volunteers, we teach English to

    province officials, public school English

    teachers, and the local staff of Vietnam

    Plus. Vietnam Plus is a small French-

    Belgium NGO, with entirely local staff

    at a few posts in southern Vietnam and

    Cambodia. They work primarily with the

    poorest people in the province, providing

    training in health, hygiene, agricultural

    technology, alternative energy and envi-

    ronmental resource management. Theyalso provide partial funding and materi-

    als toward homes, outhouses, road and

    bridge construction, livestock, bio-gas

    systems, trees and produce.

    At the moment, they are conducting

    a scholarship program for the poorest

    children in the community. In addition,

    they create jobs and income for people

    at sewing and handicraft collectives,

    and in educational theatre. Theyre

    very involved in the community at the

    grass roots level. There are eight staff

    members in the Long My office, and we

    are also in close contact with BernardKervyn, Vietnam Plus director in Ho Chi

    Minh City.

    I love Long My. Its beautiful, despite

    or perhaps because of the poverty in

    the outlying areas. Most of the province

    is rural and has not been built up into

    concrete dominated cities, many of the

    local homes and bridges are constructed

    of natural materials. Homes and farms

    proliferate along the thoroughfares

    because there isnt much dry land. The

    area is a maze of small rivers, canals,

    and wetlands with tropical vegetation.

    Long My is the only real town in the dis-

    trict, with about 10 streets, and a large

    bustling market. This is an agricultureand fishing based community, life begins

    and ends early.

    Life is simple for us here. Theres lots

    of good cheap food in the street stalls.

    Ive been trying to make at least one

    meal a day at home now that we have a

    kitchen. The coffee grown in Vietnam

    is some the best Ive ever had, and they

    prepare it strong and dense, almost like

    a drip espresso. Mmmmm. Ive finally

    learned how to make a decent cup.

    Its been an odd mix of difficult and

    easy here. You stand next to the toilet

    and pour cold buckets over yourselfinstead of showering, and hand wash

    clothing in big plastic bowls. We do

    have a flush toilet and a refrigerator,

    luxuries compared to what most folks

    have here. Though we might be the only

    people in town without a TV.

    Often we are the very first westerners

    that people have seen, and are minor

    celebrities. There is a disparity here

    in the way that men and women are

    traditionally treated that is not so preva-

    lent in cities where people have more

    exposure to the outside world. Family

    is important, and its wonderful to bearound the old people and children. Its

    a small town with a real sense of com-

    munity. People sit around for hours over

    iced coffee and drinks. There seem to

    be more coffee shops in Long My than

    Berkeley, CA!

    What stands out most for me is how

    incredibly friendly, kind and generous

    the people are here. I have never in my

    life seen so many smiling faces, heard

    so much laughter, and been treated like

    family by so many near strangers. Even

    the poorest will go out of their way to

    serve you food and drink, no matter howmuch you may protest or wish to pay

    for them. I invite means My treat.

    After 50 years on the planet, I am finally

    learning the true meaning of generosity,

    in a place where I thought I was the one

    coming to give.

    For more information about Viet-

    nam Plus, please go to www.vnplus.org.

    Jeff and Kristi were mentioned in their

    bulletin, www.vietnamplus.org/en/

    doc/2006-07-09_quarterly_bulletin.pdf.

    Vietnam Plus staff on tour of village projects.

    Here, a mushroom patch.

    Smiles and Laughter:

    Kristi Smith and Jeff

    Bettencourt are our first

    volunteers at the Vietnam

    Plus post in Long My in

    the Mekong Delta. Here,

    Kristi reflects on the sim-

    ple life.

    100 Invitations in Long My

    Jeff becomes fast friends with this Long Myfamily.

    Kristi and Mr. Thanh of VN Plus visit the new

    house being built for this father of three.

    Truc and Chi. Truc is a student of Kristis and

    Chi makes the best rice plate in town!

    Kristi and friend, Truc.

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    Dance rehearsals,

    By Lillian Forsyth, 06

    Teachers Day is a very important

    holiday in Vietnam. This is a sentence

    I had heard many times from fellow

    teachers and from my students. How-

    ever, any amount of warning could not

    have prepared me for the scale to which

    An Giang University (AGU) celebrates

    this holiday.

    Teachers Day in Vietnam falls on

    November 20th every year. This day has

    traditionally been a day for students to

    thank their teachers with gifts, cards,

    and visits to their homes. Teachers are

    considered some of the most important

    people in Vietnamese society, second

    only to the parents. Knowledge is highly

    respected, and as the purveyors of this

    knowledge, teachers are on somewhat ofa pedestal.

    Although Teachers Day is officially

    celebrated on November 20th, we began

    preparing over a month in advance. At

    AGU there is an extravagant ceremony

    on the morning of Teachers Day, with

    dance and song performances by teach-

    ers and students, as well as speeches by

    the rector of the university and other

    key personalities.

    But how do they choose which lucky

    students and teachers will earn the privi-

    lege of dancing and singing in front of

    the entire school and the local peoplescommittee, you may ask. This process

    begins about a week before Teachers

    Day, with almost nightly dance and song

    performances by students in a sort of

    competition: beginning with the depart-

    ments, then up to the level of each

    faculty, and then finally to the last round

    where the best performances of the

    university will be selected by a group of

    strict judges.

    The performances, in addition to

    taking much of the students time and

    energy to prepare, also include elabo-

    rate costumes and choreography. For a

    small example, my third year students

    had a traditional dance performance

    with 15 students, props such as lanterns,

    books, traditional instruments, and five

    giant boat-like structures that stood

    around the tiny stage at various points.

    The singing is either accompanied by a

    live band or by CD. In either case, the

    music is so deafeningly loud that you can

    not hear yourself sing, and would never

    know if you are singing off key or not

    (this was clear from some of the painful

    performances.)

    As for me, because the dance that I

    was a part of had two foreign teachers,

    it was of course chosen to showcase forthe entire university (although I dont

    think it was actually the best dance.)

    This meant that at 6:30 am on November

    20th I was standing behind the outdoor

    stage dressed in a hot pink ao ba ba

    wearing a traditional conical hat, and

    trying to control the violent shaking of

    my nervous arms and legs. We pulled

    off the performance with only minor

    mishaps (dropping the hats, etc.) and

    of course the crowd cheered for the

    foreigners who were able to dance in the

    traditional Vietnamese style.

    The rest of the day seemed to be a

    big party for all of the teachers. Many

    students wanted photographs with us,

    gave us cards, flowers, and their wishes

    of good luck for the future. I, unfortu-

    nately, had to teach in the afternoon

    when most teachers had the day off. In

    fact it ended up being one of the most

    interesting classes Ive had, with the

    students explaining the significance of

    Teachers Day, and how it has changed

    recently to become more focused on

    performance and commercialism. De-

    spite this fact, they asserted that the

    importance of teachers in Vietnamese

    society had not diminished in the slight-

    est, but that the form of appreciationhad merely changed.

    We spent the rest of the afternoon

    singing traditional Vietnamese songs

    about teachers. The students asked me

    to sing an English song about teachers,

    and I realized that I didnt know any!

    How embarrassing. It was interesting

    to see even these adult students get

    excited about their elementary school

    teachers, and made me realize that the

    work I am doing here may mean a lot

    more to my students than I know.

    Lillian Forsyth, 1st-year

    volunteer at An Giang

    University, reflects on

    Teachers Day in Vietnam,

    an annual celebration and

    rite of passage for most

    VIA Vietnam volunteers.

    Costumes, and Karaoke,

    Oh my!

    VIA volunteers at An Giang University, Lillian Forsyth and Tyler Watts (far left), getting their

    15 minutes of fame in the annual Teachers Day celebration. Next step: Broadway!

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    Accidental Friends on the Sapa Trail

    By Amy Cherry, 05-06

    Its funny how the most frightening

    events of your life, those you try des-

    perately to avoid, can turn out to be the

    most rewarding experiences youve ever

    had. Last May, my two friends, Patty and

    Amanda (also VIA vols) and I decided to

    drive our motorbikes from Hanoi to Sapa.

    It was on this trip that I was faced with a

    situation I NEVER wanted to find myself

    in. But there I was, all alone, in terrible

    pain, and feeling more vulnerable than

    Id ever felt in my life.

    Heres how it happened...

    On the second day of our trip, it

    started to rain lightly. Patty was first,

    Amanda was in the middle, and I was

    bringing up the rear. A few minutes later

    the rain started to come down more

    steadily, making the roads slippery. As I

    rounded the second half of an s-curve, I

    suddenly felt my bike slipping out from

    under me. My body turned sideways, and

    I watched the mountains and trees twist

    into a blur. My bike hit the ground, and

    together we slid about 2 meters across

    the pavement. My bike continued on

    without me for another 4 meters or so

    and came to a halt in the grass.

    There I was...sitting in the middle of

    the road watching my two friends drive

    around the corner. I stood up and fever-

    ishly tried to wave them down, but they

    were too focused on their own safety to

    look back. So, on they went without me.

    In spite of the thrashing pain in my left

    knee, my first thought was, Im alive. I

    can walk. This is good!

    As I hobbled over to pick up my bike,

    two young men rushed over to help me.

    One of them picked up my bike while the

    other one ran up the hill, grabbed some

    leaves, crushed them, and applied them

    to my bleeding hand. We had no means

    by which to communicate because I

    hadnt learned Vietnamese like I was

    supposed to. A smile and a nod would

    have to do.

    Concerned about being left behind by

    my friends, I assured the boys that I was

    okay and started to get on my bike. The

    boys smiled, waved, and started to walk

    away as an older gentleman approached

    me. I assured him that I was okay, too.

    Then, I noticed that the front wheel of

    my bike was pointing to the right, and

    the handlebars were pointing to the left.

    So, I called the man back and pointed to

    my handlebars. He tried to bend them

    back with brute force, but that didnt

    work, so he pointed for me to take the

    bike back to his house. However, when

    I tried to put the bike into neutral, I

    realized that the gear lever was smashed

    up into the engine and wouldnt budge.

    Things were getting worse by the min-

    ute, and my friends STILL hadnt come

    back for me.

    Now a small crowd was gathering.

    Another man arrived with some tools.

    Well, one tool. He also had a metal rod

    and a rock. The two men started pulling

    apart my bike, bit by bit. As soon as they

    would take off one part, theyd notice

    another broken part. At first, I thought I

    was doomed. But, Id heard many times

    that everyone in the countryside knows

    how to repair a Minsk because they areoften used by the farmers. So, I decided

    to have complete faith that they would

    restore my bike. I watched in awe as a

    bigger crowd gathered to oversee the

    repairs and to gawk at me: the western

    female who towered over them all. Some

    of them touched my skin. All of them

    smiled, and sometimes they would talk

    to each other, look at me, and laugh. I

    could do nothing but smile and have

    faith in them. And I did. They smashed

    parts of my bike against the road, they

    beat it with the rock, they argued over

    what was the best way to do it.When all of the smashing and bang-

    ing finally stopped, the two men stood

    up and proudly smiled at me. The one

    who had done most of the work showed

    me his grease-laden hands, then wan-

    dered off to clean them. The one who

    did most of the pointing and bossing

    around hopped on my bike to test drive

    it. Everyone smiled and cheered as he

    drove around in a circle. They watched

    my face to see if I was pleased. Indeed,

    I was.

    I inquired about how much money I

    should give them. They teased, 100,000dong, no 200,000 dong! and laughed.

    As the man with the now-clean hands re-

    turned, they joked with him about how

    much he would charge me. He shook his

    head at them, walked up to me, smiled,

    and extended his hand... Khong tien.

    Cac ban. - No money... Friends. As

    I shook his hand, I smiled and fought

    back tears. I will forever remember that

    mans humble nature and unassuming

    kindness. For him, it was just another

    day. For me, it was a defining moment in

    my life.

    As I threw my leg over my bike and

    waved my goodbyes, I noticed one of the

    men pointing up the hill. There were my

    two friends. Theyd finally come back

    for me. I was happy to see them, but sad

    that they didnt get to experience the

    wonderful moments I shared with these

    men.

    I often think about this experience,

    and I share it with as many people as

    I can. I dont think anyone will ever

    understand how that one moment pro-

    foundly affected the way I view

    humanity.

    Amy Cherry, a current two-year volunteer at Hanoi University and interim in-country represen-

    tative, on her beloved Minsk on the ride from Hanoi to Sapa.

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    Vietnam Program Post Round-UpNew Posts 2006-07:Nha Trang University, Department of English

    Can Tho University, Department of English

    Vietnam Plus, Long My District, Hau Giang Province

    New Posts 2007-08:Hanoi School of Public Health

    Friends of Hue Foundation Xuan Phu Childrens Shelter, Hue

    An Giang Dong Thap Alliance for the Prevention of Trafficking, a Project of

    the Pacific Links Foundation, Long Xuyen, An Giang Province

    Continuing Posts:Center for Agricultural and Ecological Studies, Hanoi

    Danang University, Center for Continuing Education

    Hue University, College of Foreign Languages

    Dalat University, Dept. of Community Development and Social Work

    An Giang University, Long Xuyen, An Giang Province

    Total Number of Volunteers in 2006-07: 14Total Number of Volunteers in 2007-08: 17

    VIA and Institute of Anthropology:A Friendship through the Years!

    In 1998, Kate Dunham, a former

    China volunteer and Program Director,

    returned to Vietnam to help VIA open

    new post, the Institute of Ethnology.

    Nearly a decade later, VIA and the

    Institute (now the Institute of Anthro-

    pology or IA) have come to a sad but

    mutual agreement to end our 9-year

    partnership.

    Dr. Hoan, current IA director, and

    his team of staff and researchers have

    been dear friends to VIA and our volun-

    teers through these many years. Many

    of IAs researchers have completed

    their advanced degrees abroad; thus,

    the need for a dedicated VIA volunteer

    to teach English at IA is no longer as

    great.

    VIA sends our best wishes to Dr.

    Hoan and IA as they move forward with

    their initiatives to advance understand-

    ing of socio-anthropological issues

    in Vietnam among Vietnamese and

    abroad.

    I think that everyone is sincerely

    very appreciative of and grateful for

    VIAs presence. Everyone is well-aware

    of what they stand to gain by learning

    English and for this reason they makea great effort to attend class and are

    diligent workers. Kitty Steel, 00

    (Quoted in 2000)

    Everyone, Dr Hoan and all the re-

    searchers at the Institute were always

    as welcoming to me as possible during

    my two years there. I learned so much

    about Vietnam from them and made so

    many good friends. Ill never forget

    my time at IA. (Kate Dunham, 98)

    The Institute of Anthropology recently relo-

    cated to its new office in Ba Dinh district.

    Farewell tothe Captain!

    In early December 2006, VIA bid asad farewell to Justin Hart, the Viet-

    nam programs in-country represen-

    tative for nearly the last four years.

    Justin, a trained social worker and

    former international volunteer with

    Australian Volunteers International

    (AVI), came to VIA with over 5 years

    of experience living and working in

    Vietnam.

    Justin moves on to an exciting

    opportunity in Phnom Penh, teaching

    English and providing counseling to

    AVI volunteers.

    We wish you the best of luck,

    Justin!

    VIAs gather in Hanoi to bid farewell to In-

    Country Representative Justin Hart.