Uvod u fiziku moraUvod u fiziku mora(fizi(fiziččku oceanografiju)ku oceanografiju)

Ivica VilibićInstitut za oceanografiju i ribarstvo, Split

vilibic@izor.hr

Literatura:

- Mala Internet škola oceanografije, http://skola.gfz.hr

- Matthias Tomczak, An Introduction to Physical Oceanography,http://www.es.flinders.edu.au/~mattom/IntroOc

- Robert Stewart, Introduction to Physical Oceanography, http://oceanworld.tamu.edu/resources/ocng_textbook/contents.html

- Robert Stewart, Our Ocean Planet - Oceanography in the 21st Century,http://oceanworld.tamu.edu/resources/oceanography-book/contents.htm

- Scripps Institute of Oceanography, Introduction to Physical Oceanography,http://www-pord.ucsd.edu/~ltalley/sio210

Prezentacije sa predavanja su dostupne na

http://jadran.izor.hr/~vilibic/FMO

Earth’s Crust

Concentric Layersdefined by physical

properties

Compositional layers of the Earth are the Crust,

the Mantle, and the Core.

Physical state of layer depends on

composition and depth (heat & pressure).

Increasing temperature results in melting.

Defined by physical state

THE EARTH SYSTEM

GeologyBiologyOceanographyAtmospheric ScienceHydrology

Spheres thatsurround theearth

Morfologija morskog dna

Oceanography• Oceanografija (Ocean + pisati, grčki), također zvana oceanologija,

znanost o zemljinim oceanima i njihovih međusobno povezanih ekosustava te kemijskih i fizičkih procesa. http://hr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oceanografija

• Oceanography (compound of the Greek words ωκεανός meaning "ocean" and γράφω meaning "to write"), also called oceanology or marine science, is the branch of Earth science that studies the ocean. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oceanography

• The study of the ocean, embracing and integrating all knowledge pertaining to the ocean's physical boundaries, the chemistry andphysics of sea water, and marine biology. www.weather.com/glossary/o.html

• The scientific study and exploration of the oceans and seas in all their aspects, including all processes in the oceans and interactions and relations with Earth. www.reefed.edu.au/glossary/o.html

• Oceanography is the study of the deep sea and shallow coastal oceans: their biology, chemistry, geology and physics together make oceanography a richly interdisciplinary science.

Oceanography

• Biological oceanography, or marine biology, is the study of theplants, animals and microbes of the oceans and their ecologicalinteraction with the ocean;

• Chemical oceanography, or marine chemistry, is the study of thechemistry of the ocean and its chemical interaction with theatmosphere;

• Geological oceanography, or marine geology, is the study of thegeology of the ocean floor including plate tectonics;

• Physical oceanography, or marine physics, studies theocean's physical attributes including temperature-salinitystructure, mixing, waves, internal waves, surface tides, internal tides, and currents. Of particular interest is thebehavior of sound (acoustical oceanography), light (opticaloceanography) and radio waves in the ocean

Oceanographers and Oceans

• Oceanographers aim their work at both practical problems and basic scientific discovery

• Oceans :

– provide threats;– a bountiful diversity of food– are the reservoir of our water supply– most of the heat and carbon of the climate system– are the source of roughly ½ the respired oxygen of

the biosphere,– contain most of the remaining undiscovered natural

pharmaceuticals

A Young Science

• Although oceanography is a relatively young science

• It is the natural setting to ask fundamental questions about the development of life, and the behavior (or misbehavior) of global climate

Some Facts

• The oceans cover 7/10 of the Earth's surface.• Together with the atmosphere and the 'fresh-

water' sphere they make up 'fluid' Earth. • Much of the biomass...the mass of living plants

and animals...lives in the oceans, far more than on land!

• Very roughly ½ of the primary production of oxygen from photosynthesis, by all life on Earth, occurs in the sea. Roughly ½ of that occurs in the productive, shallow ocean near land.

Povijest oceanografije

Early Ocean Explorers• The ancient Greeks

began to explore outside the Mediterranean about 900-700 B.C.

• The Greek name for river, okeanos evolved into the word ocean, used today to describe the world seas

• James Cook created the early extensive maps during his voyages of the Pacific Ocean. He included: ocean depth, prevailing winds, surface currents, and water temperature

• Ben Franklin charted the Gulf Stream in 1769• Matthew Maury, “Father of Modern Oceanography”

published a book entitled “The Physical Geography of the Sea”. His knowledge reduced travel times by as much as a month

Hydrography

Gulf Stream

• Charles Darwin sailed on the HMS Beagle from 1831-1836

• He collected a variety of marine organisms• Edward Forbes, one of the leading marine

biologist of that time, believed the oceans could be divided vertically into zones. He suggested no life existed below 1800 feet

Challenger Expedition

• Voyage lasted from 1872-1876, 3 ½ years• Ocean depth measurements were taken at 361 locations• Maximum depth of 12,300 feet deep in the Mariana trench

was recorded• Water samples analyzed for temperature and chemistry• It was shown that relative abundance of major component

ions of seawater remains constant• 4,417 new species of marine of new organisms were

discovered• Deep currents were investigated• It took 20 years to catalogue the collected data

Fridijog Nansen: Led the Arctic voyage of the Norwegian ship Fram, 1893-96, which proved the non-existence of an Arctic continent; drifted in ice pack for 4 years

The Meteor Expedition (1925-1927)

• German scientists performed the real test of the dynamic method on the Meteor expedition in the Atlantic. This expedition was conceived of by a German naval officer, Captain Fritz Spiess to create an opportunity for a German navy vessel to visit foreign ports (prohibited by the treaty at the end of World War I) in the capacity of an ocean research vessel. Captain Spiess had served both prior to and during the war as a hydrographer in the German navy. He realized that to be successful he must find a recognized German scientist to be the “father” of the expedition.

Što proučavafizička oceanografija

Područje istraživanja fizičke oceanografije

Istraživanje svojstava morske vodea) Salinitet b) Temperatura c) Tlakd) Gustoća e) Razdijeljenost na vodene masef) Morske strujeg) Razina mora h) Optička svojstva mora

Istraživanje gibanja u moruFizikalne zakonitosti i jednadžbe

Praktična primjena znanja iz područja fizičke oceanografije

Ovladavanje i ublažavanje djelovanja prirodnih pojava (uspori, tsunamiji, klimatske promjene, ...)Iskorištavanje resursa mora - voda, sol, ribolov, marikultura - iskorištavanje energije morskih doba - plovidba - odlaganje otpada (za odabir najpovoljnije lokacije treba poznavati cirkulaciju i razdiobu fizikalnih svojstava)

Poplavljivanje obalnih područja-“acqua alta”, “plimni val”, tsunamiji, uragani, porast razine mora, …

- gdje će štete biti najveće- da li je moguće ublažiti štete- cost/benefit analize

COASTAL STORM SURGE FLOODING OF 18 TO 22 FEET ABOVE NORMAL TIDE LEVELS...LOCALLY AS HIGH AS 28 FEET...ALONG WITH LARGE AND DANGEROUS BATTERING WAVES...CAN BE EXPECTED NEAR AND TO THE EAST OF WHERE THE CENTER MAKES LANDFALL. SOME LEVEES IN THE GREATER NEW ORLEANS AREA COULD BE OVERTOPPED. SIGNIFICANT STORM SURGE FLOODING WILL OCCUR ELSEWHERE ALONG THE CENTRAL AND NORTHEASTERN GULF OF MEXICO COAST.Hurricane Katrina advisory,18 h prije udara

ŠŠibenikibenik

TrogirTrogirVodiceVodice

ZadarZadar Stari Grad (Hvar)Stari Grad (Hvar)

ŠŠibenikibenik Božić, Nova godina 2010.

Promjena svojstava mora i utjecaj na živi svijet- migracije organizama, invazivne i tropske vrste, cvjetanje mora, anoksija-hipoksija, dostupnost i unos hranjivih soli, …

Havarije i akcidentne situacije na moru- predviđanje trajektorija, spašavanje na moru, širenje naftnih mrlja, sigurnost plovidbe, prognoza opasnih uvjeta na moru, …