US Med Guide

7/25/2019 US Med Guide

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M4A3E8Shermans Blunicum Guide to the M48 Patton Line - Murica

Once a solid but relatively unremarkable branch of vehicles in the game, this family of tanks has

benefited greatly from multiple buffs since 2014. Every member is at least above average andseveral are contenders for best in tier, making the traditional US medium line one of the

strongest in the same. In addition, most of these tanks are also dynamic, pleasant to drive, and

very rewarding to play. Lets start with some of the defining traitsthat most or all of them share

in common.

Good gun handling for their tier

Amazing gun depression

High view range

Fast traverse

Pretty good module placement, generally tough in that regard

Decent acceleration

Average camo

Middling top speed

Relatively insubstantial hull armor

Long radio range (lol)

And that about covers it. Though its often described as a jack of all trades line, in truth, the

characteristics of each tank can differ significantly-and while the change isnt usually drastic

enough to warrant much of a change in playstyle, Id only really label the M4, Pershing, and

M48 as JOATs. The T20 and M46, on the other hand, come off as rather min-maxed within their

class and tier. Fortunately, all of them are relatively versatile regardless, which ensures you

wont get funneled into a single niche all the time.

Lets move on to crew skills and perks. As noted, while each vehicle is different, you wont be

switching up the way you play a whole lot, so whats good for one is good for all.

Color code:

Purple: Excellent/must-have, top choice

Blue: Very helpful, good option


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Green: Useful, not vital, generally 3rd/4th

pick

Yellow: Meh, save it for when you have nothing better to train

Red: ew

Commander

Sixth sense: Vital, not just for knowing when youve overextended and need to retreat, but also

for figuring out if theres an enemy in the area. Drop your commanders skills for this as soon as

you can.

Brothers in Arms: The crew bonus from this is actually worth more than 100% recon is. It also

adds +5% to skills. Should be your pick for second/third perk. Remember, every crew member

must have this trained to 100% for this to work, so drop everyone for this at once.

Repairs: Great for when your track is blown and you need to get going. Several of the US tech

tree meds have good turret armor, but none have reliable hull armor, and if youve been tracked,

your hull is precisely whats been exposed. A sitting med without hull armor is a dead med.

Camouflage: Being spotted less means living longer means doing more damage and winning

more games. Not quite as useful nowadays thanks to shorter engagement distances and less

foliage, but still handy, especially for relocation or the endgame.

Jack of all trades: JOAT is basically a free bonus (or bandage) if a crew member gets knocked

out and youve either already used your medkit, or youre not willing to. If you like to livedangerously, you can even forgo carrying a medkit altogether in favor of food, gas, or a 2

nd

repair kit. This, of course, depends on your commander staying alive.

Firefighting: Once this is fully or mostly trained across the entire crew, you can drop the fire

extinguisher for another consumable. Nice if you like running food or you want the security

blanket of a second medical/repair kit.

Mentor: Bonus crew XP, basically, but doesnt directly augment the tank. While youre training

it, youre essentially sacrificing your commanders XP, so its a long term investment.

Eagle Eye:Lets you see the damaged and destroyed modules of an enemy vehicle, provided yourcrosshair is pointing at them and you are currently spotting them (doesnt apply if theyre being

spotted by allies only). Very situational, but it could come in handy during a faceoff. A damaged

engine on a heavy or TD means circling is a free to go, and knowing your opponent has a

damaged ammo rack is obviously useful.


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Recon:2% more view range is not a gigantic deal-in practical terms, its onlymaybe 7, 8, 9

meters, which in game is a veryshort distance. Somewhat more useful in situations where you

cant advance and you need to spot a concealed vehicle. If your viewports are destroyed, it does

aid significantly until theyre repaired, not like that actually happens often.

Gunner

Brothers in Arms: Overall, the main proficiency bonus from BIA is equivalent to about half of

what youd get from a GLD, just concerning aiming alone. An improvement in base accuracy

also aids in landing more shots, both when fully aimed and while moving.

Repairs: Already mentioned, you want to get your tracks back up as soon as you can.

Snapshot:Shooting on the move is a US med specialty, and you want to get as good at it as you

can. The difference this skill makes isnt gigantic, but its not at all bad.

Camouflage: Covered previously.

Deadeye: Increases your chance to damage modules by a flat 3%. Considering most modules

have a base chance of 27% to 45%, this is actually pretty good. Doesnt work with HE shells.

Firefighting: Covered previously.

Armorer:Kind of like JOAT, just for the gun instead. Free bonus if youve spent your repair kit.

Designated target: Targeted vehicles are visible for 2 more seconds when they would have

normally gone unspotted.Not my first pick, especially considering its a perk, but I can

definitely think of some instances where it helps. Your teammates will also see the tanks thatyouve targeted.

Driver

Brothers in Arms: Improves both terrain resistance (acceleration) and traverse speed, plus all

your other skills.

Repairs:Covered previously.

Clutch braking: By itself, it gives about the same bonus to traverse as BIA, though the effect

improves with conjunction with it as well as vents and food. Faster traverse means fasterrelocation, better dogfighting performance, and a more comfortable tank to drive.

Camouflage: Covered previously.

Off-road driving: Terrain resistance seems to have a bit less of an effect since 9.14. Nevertheless,

bettering the stats is still useful, and due to the way traverse speed is calculated, it also helps a

little bit with turning on medium and soft ground.


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Preventative Maintenance:Reduces the chance of engine fires by 25%. This single perk is

effectively equivalent to training every crew member to 50%, not including fuel tank fires. Helps

when youre not running a fire extinguisher.

Smooth Ride: Unfortunately, this only reduces the penalty from moving forward. Nevertheless,

you want to get your dispersion down as much as you can.

Firefighting:Covered previously.

Controlled Impact:Rams are pretty rare and the US meds arent particularly well suited for it; on

top of that, I believe this skill only helps if both tanks are moving. Definitely the skill to save for

last.

Radio Operator

Brothers in Arms: The benefit to the radio operator is relatively worthless, you train this so it

works for everyone else.

Repairs: Covered previously, ranked higher due to the lack of good radio operator skills.

Camouflage:See repairs.

Situational Awareness:3% is still not that much, but its larger than what the commander would

get from BIA or vents alone (not both, just one). Its ranked highly because most of the other

skills suck.

Firefighting:See camouflage.

Call for Vengeance: Its a worse designated target. In most instances where the enemies youre

spotting wouldve otherwise gone off the radar, your allies wont be in position to engage them

anyway, but it helps if you had a sniper backing you up.

Relaying:More useful in lower tiers if one ally with really crap radio range is trying to

communicate with another ally with really crap radio range. Still not good by any stretch.

Signal boosting:Wholly unnecessary, every tank covered has more radio range than the its

country has debt.

Loader

Brother in Arms:Universally faster reload and a boost to other skills=Good

Repairs:Covered previously.

Safe stowage:Boost isnt gigantic, but having a damaged ammo rack is terrible and having a

destroyed ammo rack is even more terrible, so why not?


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Camouflage:Covered previously.

Firefighting:Covered previously.

Adrenaline Rush:Similar to an extra rammer when youre on low health. Inpractice, either

youll never get to the 10% benchmark or you wont live long enough for this to be useful, butwhen you do, its okay. Unfortunately most of these times the game has already been won and a

faster reload is only useful for farming cleanup damage.

Intuition:Saves you a couple of seconds every once in a while when you want to pre-load a gold

round. If youre pre-loading a shell, however, you probably have enough time anyway, so its

really more of a convenience thing.

Equipment

Lets move onto equipment next. Once again, these are all meds that dont usually vary too

drastically in playstyle, and the usefulness of equipment tends to be universal anyway, so I dont

feel the need to go over the loadout for each tank. Well use the same color code as we did for

the crew skills in order to describe the usefulness of each piece of equipment.

Vertical Stabilizer: If the tank can mount it, then do so. The increase in fire-on-the-move

accuracy and the decrease in aiming time are both far too large to ignore. Most useful piece of

equipment in the game. The high tier tanks in the branch can regularly snapshot enemies from

several hundred meters away while moving at full speed, and I am not kidding when I say that.

Rammer: Second piece of equipment that you always want to have. Augments your DPM, whichhelps you win trading games and burn down opponents faster in a sustained engagement.

Vents: An extra BIA. Little boost to everything, and also helps with crew skills. I personally

prefer vents over opticsbecause Id rather be better at engaging the enemies I can see either way,

and most of the time, you can see them either way. Either the engagement range will be short

enough that the enemy vehicles are spotted regardless, your ally is spotting for you, or theyre so

far away/well concealed that you wouldnt have seen then anyway. In that case, Ill take better

accuracy, DPM, and mobility. But preferences vary; to some, that +10% view range is too

significant to pass up in favor of a myriad of smaller benefits.

Optics: Some people prefer this over vents, and thanks to the already high base view range of the

US meds, you get more out of this than you would from many other tanks. The downside is that

you get no benefit in engaging tanks that are already spotted. You also cant spot anything past

445m, so if a tank was already going to be seen at that range, optics wont help. Ultimately its

up to you.


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Gun-laying drive: A worse alternative to the vertical stabilizer. Id only consider mounting this

on the M4, on which the gyrostabilizer isnt available. Note that you canaim while moving as

long as you stop whatevers causing the dispersion (for example, if you turn your turret while

moving your hull and then stop turning your turret, you will start to aim down the dispersion

from traversing the turret only), so it can still potentially aid in firing on the movebut generally

speaking its still a direct downgrade. Vents have about half the effect of a GLDon aiming along

with a bunch of other plusses so I wouldnt take this over air conditioning either.

Wet Ammo Rack: This gets a green not because its good but because everything sucks. Having

a damaged ammo rack really sucks, and seeing as most of the US meds have ammo racks that

have a good amount of HP and dont really get damaged all that often, a WAR theoretically

should all but eliminate such instances. On the downside, the rarity of getting ammo racked is

precisely why you dont need this equipment. Its better to take something that would help all the

time rather than only when your ammo gets hit.

Toolbox: Getting your tracks back up faster is great, but not if you have to sacrifice DPM ordispersion for it. Better to just train repairs and use a kit if you really need them done this instant.

Only use this if you dont plan on keeping the tank or youre too poor to afford permanent

equipment.

Enhanced suspension:Can be very useful if you havent researched the top suspension yet,

otherwise not ideal as a long term investment. HP boost to suspension is situational and probably

wont prevent a sprocket hit from tracking you anyway.

Binocular Telescope:I have a hard enough time abusing this on TDs. The American med line is

very well suited for mobile warfare. You should be moving.

Camouflage Net:See above.

Spall liner:Too situational, does nothing for penetrating arty hits, and HE damage from tanks is

laughable. Only helps for splashes and rams. Granted, splashes from arty do as much (or more)

damage as hits from tanks, so its nice to gave when it does happen, but ultimately other

equipment will be more useful.

Fill Tanks with CO2: American meds dont have a problem with fuel tank fires and either

firefighting or a fire extinguisher would lessen the risk greatly. Dont.

Now thats done, lets go over some consumable loadouts.

Potential Consumable Loadouts


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Repair kit/auto fire extinguisher/medkit: Standard loadout, cheap to run and guarantees all-

around protection against being screwed by RNG.

Repair kit/food/medkit: Standard food configuration. Expensive, but handy if you want the crew

bonus, or you have a lot of money to burn. I wouldnt run this in clan wars and tournaments

unless you have preventative maintenance and firefighting trained; the slight risk that youll getset on fire is just too large when each match is so important.

Repair kit/food/105 octane gas: For when you want to get the absolute best performance out of

your tank. Id only ditch the medkit with JOAT trained, and even then, its a risky move. Fun,

though.

Repair kit/100 octane/medkit: 100 octane doesnt have too significant of an impact, but if you

already have preventative maintenance and firefighting fully trained, then this provides an

alternative to a fire extinguisher without eating up too much money.

Small repair kit/Large repair kit/Medkit: If you commonly find yourself getting tracked or ammo

racked in unfortunate situations, or want a cheap alternative to the fire extinguisher with

firefighting and preventative maintenance trained.

Repair kit/Large medkit/small medkit: If your crew keeps getting screwed over, or you want an

alternative to the fire extinguisher and you have more of a problem with crew deaths than

modules breaking.

Small repair kit/Large repair kit/Food: Id only run this with JOAT. Extra securityblanket

against getting tracked and/or ammo racked if you still want to run food.

Finally, lets move on to the actual tanks!

M4 Sherman

Pros


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-Turns quickly

-High view range (for tier 5)

-Very good gun depression

-76mm has excellent penetration for a t ier 5 med

-105mm deals reliable damage against most targets, HEAT packs a punch against soft tanks

-Long radio range, lol

Neutral

-Acceleration is okay for a med, medium HP/ton and terrain resistance

-Alpha is pretty standard for tier

-Top speed at 48 kph, is decent at this tier, but not spectacular

-Pretty average camo

Cons

-Low DPM

-Poor gun handling

-No abusable armor anywhere

-HP is low compared to heavies and tier 5 premium meds

Im starting off with the M4 as the first tank to cover; the lower tierswill be grinded through

relatively quickly (except for maybe the Lee) and gameplay at that level is derpy, random, and

doesnt matter all that much to most people.

The M4 used to be the golden standard of tier 5, until it got hit with the nerfbat hard. Upon

receiving the nerfbat, it lost both its tough mantlet+turret face combination and a significant

amount of DPM on both guns, not to mention the bloom got worse. In spite of this, its still areasonably solid tier 5 medium and should be relatively painless to grind through once all the top

modules have been mounted.

Research path:

1. 105mm gun. You need this. Playing with the 75mm was a painful experience.

2. Tracks for better mobility and increased weight limit.


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3. Turret for increased HP.

4. 76mm M1A1. You need to research this gun for the M4A3E8.

5. M4A3E8

76mm vs 105mm: Choices, choices

Notice that youre now left with 2 gun options, neither of which is a straight upgrade over the

other. Which one do you choose?

The 76mm has excellent penetration for a tier 5 medium, and you can damage pretty much

anything you see, especially with APCR. Unfortunately, the accuracy is crap, though its not as

bad as it is on the 105mm. The DPM is also quite low.

The 105mm tends to hit harder on average per shot, and HEAT rounds (or even HE against

particularly soft targets) are devastating if they pen. On the downside, the accuracy is evenworse, the aim time is longer, and the RoF is lower.

Overall, Id go for the 105. There are a lot of targets at both this and the next tier that are poorly

armored, and the derp still does okay against harder stuff-youll do just as much damage against

a T29s upper plate with HE as you would shooting APCR at him with the 76mm, and thats one

of the toughest heavy tanks youll meet.

Mobility:

HP/ton comes in at 15.42, while traverse on hard ground with maxed out modules is 48.6

degrees. Top speed is 48 kph. Terrain resistance comes in at 1/1.1/1.7. Overall, not an absolutespeed demon, but fairly mobile and comfy to drive; its enough to allow you to compete for key

early game positions such as Mines hills with other tier 5 meds. Youll definitely outpace

heavies, and you can keep pace with some of the combat lights youll see at this tier. Scouts, on

the other hand, are way ahead of you.

Armor:

The upper glacis is about 80mm effective, while protection on the lower plate is variable, but

generally worse due to the poorer sloping. The mantlet is 89mm with very little turret backing

behind it. Side armor is pathetic and not really worth mentioning. Overall, itll bounce somelower tier AP rounds from the front, but thats about it.


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Strongpoints shown highlighted in bright green.

General playstyle:

The M4 is pretty adaptable in tier 5, so you dont absolutely haveto do this one thing, but there

are still some ways of driving it that will yield more success than others.

First, unless youre sure you can penetrate them with 105mm HEAT or theyre low on HP and

need to be taken out quick, dont trade with heavies. In fact, dont trade with enemy tanks in

general, if you can. Your HP is too low for that, and your alpha is not terribly high. Instead,

engage them when theyre reloading or distracted, alternatively, you can go hulldown to make

yourself a smaller target-this will swing the engagement in your favor. Going hulldown

whenever you can, as long as you can still contribute effectively to the battle, is always

recommend, so look for depression and hills where you can abuse your gun depression. Note that

the M4s turret doesnt have any significant armor, so dont count on bouncing shots if the

enemy manages to land them.

At this tier, your soft stats are pretty terrible and you still have to aim. I wouldnt fire on the

move unless youre relocating anyway and theres nothing to lose from it, or youre at point

blank range (


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When firing HE out of the howitzer, it still helps to aim for weakspots, as HE damage is

determined by armor thickness. Try not to shoot tracks, as your damage will be greatly reduced.

Its often a good idea to aim for poorly armored tankson high HP such as lights or the the

German Pz. Sfl. IVc, as your HE shells will likely pen and you can get a one-shot at of it. Of

course this only applicable if you can actually hit them, and should not be done in every situation

if a higher priority target is available.

With the 76mm, dont waste your time firing HE at anything but said German boxtenk and

Hellcats. AP will likely be your standard round. Most targets can be punched through pretty

easily, but there are still some spots and some tanks where aiming is required or advised. All of

this is also true for the M4A3E8.

-KV series: Shoot the upper or lower glacis from the front. Middle glacis is a viable target on the

KV-85 and KV-1, as long as its not angled. Avoid shooting the turret if you can. The exception

if the KV-2, where you can hit the untangled bottom portion, which isnt covered by a mantlet.

If shooting at the sides, try aiming for the middle. Tracks can generate random troll bounces.

-Churchill 1 & III: Dont shoot the right (left from their perspective) box around the MG.

Turret and lower plate are better options. You can also shoot the tracks from the front; theres

hull armor behind there.

-Churchill 7/1: Shoot the tracks from the front, unless you want to shoot APCR.

-BP: Track weakspot no longer exists, fire APCR. Dont aim at the turret, the mantlet is too

strong.

-BDG G1B: Avoid aiming for the middle glacis, its autobounce.

-T1 Heavy: Dont shoot the lower glacis.

-Sherman Jumbo: Does the tank have a max HP of 760, or 730? If its the former, the player is

using the top turret and you can shoot them right through the mantlet. If its the latter, switch to

APCR and shoot the upper glacis unless you can hit the sides.

-T29: Lower glacis can be penetrated with AP. Dont even try hitting the turret front. Turret sides

need APCR for reliable pens.

-ARL 44: Hit the turret or the tracks from the front. Upper plate is sketchy even with gold.

-AT-8: You can shoot the cupola, but the left sponson with the machine gun (right from their

view) is an even bigger weakspot.


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-AT-2: Its possible to shoot through the center of the mantlet, where theres a hole in the face.

Cupola is also a target. I dont recommend engaging frontally past a very close range where you

can hit these targets.

-Panther: Upper plate and turret will occasionally bounce, load APCR or shoot the lower plate.

Same for JPanther. Panther/M10 (if you ever happen to see it) can be shot through the mantlet.

-SU-122-44: If engaging frontally, load APCR.

-Tiger (P): Shoot the lower glacis. Hull cheeks are also pennable, especially if angled towards

you. Turret is pennable with gold.

-VK4503: Turret is weak, hull is autopen with APCR.

-Jackson, E8, T14: Dont shoot lower glacis, dont shoot the mantlet on the E8 and T14.

-TDs in general, Tigers, VK3001 & 2, 3001P: Avoid the mantlet.

-O-I: If side shots arent a possibility, shoot gold. Dont bother with the O-Ni from the front.

Rear also requires APCR.

-AMX M4: Lower glacis or APCR.

-AMX AC 1946: Shoot the cupolas. Left cupola (right from their respective) needs gold.

Of course all of this would be easier if you could get side shots in the first place. How do you go

about doing that?

Flanking an enemy you meet to go around its frontal armor, as its called, is actually not really

a practical option, especially in the early or midgame where it would be the most helpful. If you

try going another route, itll probably be covered by other tanks. You can pull it off if you and

the teammates in your vicinity or keeping a single enemy distracted and you greatly outnumber

them, but in most cases, if you meet an enemy in a corridor, youll be forced to engage them

from the front.

However, what you can do is set up in a position where the enemy has to expose their sides to

you in order to move to an optimal position. An example of that is the middle of Prokhorovka,where you can hit tanks moving up either lane, as well as scouts briefly popping up over the

ridge.

In most cases, flanking occurs when youve defeated one side head on, and can now flex

behind a part of the enemy team currently dealing with friendly forces. The enemies are now

stuck between a rock and a hard place, and are forced to take damage either way.


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Heavies and TDs with slow traverse can be circled around to keep their guns off of you. If you

surprise a TD or get into circling position, sidehug them so they cant turn around to bring their

firepower to bear. Overall, very standard medium play.

Next, the M4A3E8.

M4A3E8 Sherman

Pros:

-Turns quickly

-Decent bloom values for tier 6, can mount vertical stabilizer

-High DPM

-Very good gun depression

-Tough mantlet and lower plate

-Decent acceleration

-View range is still good

-Radio range, lol

Neutral:

-Top speed is pretty average at the same 48 KPH

-HP comes in fairly standard, 750

-Average camo


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Cons:

-Bad pen

-Bad alpha

-Did I mention bad pen and alpha?

-Meh accuracy

-Good for tier 6 doesnt mean good overall, still not great at hitting targets on the move-

vertical stabilizer is mostly good for reducing aim time really

Research Path (as I remember it):

1. Tracks for increased weigh limit and mobility

2. Turret for better HP & mantlet armor, as well as the ability to mount the M1A2.

3. 76mm M1A2 for increased firepower.

4. Engine for faster acceleration and traverse

5. T20

Firepower:

The E8s firepower is above average against other tier 6 and below tanks, pretty average against

tier 7 (above if you shoot gold rounds), and woefully below average against tier 8. At tier 6, you

can pen most everything, and your DPM is better than standard, meaning youll wittle targets

down faster. Equipped with a vertical stabilizer, you also have the best gun handling of any tier 6

med, though theyre all fairly horrible in this aspect so its kind of like being the shiniest turd or

the most popular kid on the shortbus. Low alpha means you have to hunker down and shoot

enemies repeatedly to deal any real damage, which, fortunately, the E8 can do thanks to its gun

depression+tough turret combo. If youre forced to trade, use your superior reload to shoot

another med with a slower rate of fire twice, then pull back until youre reloaded and repeat the

process. Essentially what youre doing is trading two of your 115 alpha hits for one of their 135alpha hits-not a bad deal.

However, against tier 8 tanks, youll struggle immensely to deal damage with AP. You basically

cant damage IS-6s, KV-5s, or KV-4s at all unless you come across their rear, and its possible to

score bounces even then. Moderately, even slightly angled sides will produce a surprising

number of non-penetrations. Your prospects dont improve thatmuch with APCR, since your


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177 pen HVAP round is basically about the same pen wise as the Super Pershings AP, and we

all know how inadequate that it. You do, however, get reliable side shots on everything but the

IS-3 (which trolls everyone regardless), KV-4, and KV-5. The KV-5s front tumor can be penned

reliably also. In fact, multiple tier 8 tanks have frontal weakspots that can be penetrated with

APCR, its just that the IS-3 and IS-6 dont happen to be those tier 8 tanks, and youre probably

going to be seeing the most of those. As for the Super Pershing itself, probably best not to bother

frontally unless you have clear shots on the cupola and a hull down position, and even then you

can bounce.

Shooting on the move is a vast improvement over the M4, but remains relatively poor. Dont be

afraid to toss out shots, but dont rely on it in a clutch situation either. Id say you miss maybe

half the time firing at full speed on the move at 100m, whereas something like the M46 would be

scoring guaranteed hits on the move at that range.

Also, while nominally you have the best DPM of any tier 6 med, in practice the Cromwell has

you beat once you consider the first shot is fired instantly with no delay.

Mobility:

Terrain resistance remains the same as on the M4, but you get 60 more HP and 3 more base

traverse, for an overall HP/ton of 17.35 and a traverse speed of 52 deg/sec when maxed. Once

again, very comfortable to drive, and overall fairly mobile. Top speed remains 48 kph. What you

can do with the M4, you can do with the E8, but a bit faster.

Armor:

The E8 actually has some of the best armor for a tier 6 med; this is, in fact, its main selling point

over the Cromwell. Unlike the M4, there is a curved 76mm turret face behind the 89mm thick

mantlet, and protection ranges from ~170mm to 200+mm at the edges, making it rather trollish

even for high pen guns. The cheeks are weak, but shooting around the mantlet can be difficult,

especially with the derpy handling of tier 6 tanks. Overall, the E8 is about the only tier 6 tank

that sports a combination of good hulldown toughness, good mobility, and good gun depression.

The upper glacis sees a slight improvement over the M4, with about 85-90mm of effectiveprotection. It at least offers greater protection against the Luchs autocannon and the

shortbarreled Soviet 76mm and US 75mm M3, and with angling, can deflect 75mm Kwk 40

rounds, but remains unreliable. The lower glacis is something else: Its double the thickness of

the M4s, and generally better sloped. While difficult to abuse, it will frequently deflect poorly

aimed shots from other tier 6 meds.


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Sides and rear are as weak as ever.

Strongpoints colored over in MS Paint green. Not the hull roof, thats tanks.gg armor grouping.

General playstyle:

Utilizing hulldown positions is an even more important tactic in the E8 than the M4, because

your tank gains more from it. Whereas the M4 only becomes a smaller target, the E8 also

becomes substantially more difficult to penetrate. This is important, because you needto remain

exposed if you want to get the most out of your gun, and it doesnt help if you cant give as good

as you get. The mobility primarily aids in finding new hulldown spots to shoot from, and while

the E8 can function adequately without them, abusing the terrain is definitely the way to go if the

option is available. A good description of the E8s role would be hulldown flexer.

A second improvement is that your HP is much closer to that of heavies in your tier. However,

tier 6 meds still generally remain less powerful than tier 6 HTs, largely trading combateffectiveness for better flexibility. As such, dueling heavies 1v1 on flat ground is often still a

rather unfavorable engagement. On the other hand, if youre hulldown, feel free to face off all

you want-even if your opponent scores a penetrating hit, youll likely still win the damage trade

by a significant portion.

Due to your low damage per shot, you never want to trade shot for shot. If you have to take

damage, always look to inflict more than you take. This usually means either avoiding brawls


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altogether, or at least managing to limit your engagement to a single enemy, which you can then

proceed to out-trade using the 2 for 1 (or 3 or 4, depending on how long their reload is) trick that

I described above.

If youre very poor and cannot afford to shoot APCR, you can penetrate the lower glacis of most

tier 8 mediums with AP. It would be better if you could shoot them in the sides or rear while theyare distracted, but in practice you cant always choose your engagements.

Firing on the move when the opportunity presents itself is recommended-you reload quickly

anyway and its good practice for the later tanks in the line. Just dontexpect your shots to hit

past close range.

T20

Pros:

-High alpha

-High penetration, especially with APCR

-High top speed

-Accelerates quickly

-Good camo

-Least derpy high alpha gun on a tier 7 medium

-High view range

-Great gun depression, though its 2 degrees less than the Shermans. The difference is barely

noticeable, really.

Neutral:

-HP


18/36

-Accuracy

Cons:

-Low DPM, long reload

-No armor

-Poor turning speed

-Fire on the move capability does not improve compared to the E8

Research Path:

1. Tracks for greatly improved terrain resistance and load capability

2.

Turret for more HP, view range, and the better gun3. 90mm gun so you can actually pen something

4. Engine, only gives you a 40 HP boost so not a big deal

5. Pershing

Firepower:

When youre the one dictating the terms of the engagement, its great. 240 alpha is a significant

step up from the 115 of the 76mms that youre used to, and requires much less exposure to deal

effective damage-a good thing, too, because you once again have no abusable armor. Unlike theM1A2 on the E8, the 90mm M3 works reasonably well when trading shots. It deals just as much

damage as the 88mm on the Tiger and the 90mm on the AMX M4, though this comes at the cost

of penetration and a lower rate of fire.

Where the gun falls short is when you need to kill an opponent quickly, and theyre not a one or

two-shot. The reload is actually slower than it is on the Pattons 105mms, meaning that most

other meds will beat you in a 1v1 rushdown fight. It also makes firing on the move more of a

gamble, since youre going to be down for 8 seconds if you miss. Bounces are likewise punished

more heavily.

However, you shouldnt be getting too many of those. The AP shell is already pretty decent at

160mm, while APCR brings your penetration up to a whopping 243mm-enough to penetrate

anything youll see. Its also cheaper than 76mm APCR for the damage it deals, so dont be

afraid to load it for tough targets.


19/36

Gun handling overall ends up being pretty average for a tier 7 medium, but average for a tier 7

medium beats the A-44, T-34/100, and T-34-1, which are the other tier 7 meds with high alpha

guns. Gun depression is great as always, as you would expect.

Mobility:

The T20 gets the highest top speed of all the tanks in this line, at 56 kph, with a respectable

18.34 HP/ton and the same terrain resistance as the E8. Sadly, it also gets the poorest traverse

speed, at 39.8 deg/s fully upgraded. This makes the T20 the least comfortable to drive out of the

family, as well as the poorest in a dogfight. On the plus side, its the quickest at relocating, which

is helpful for contesting key positions during the early game. Overall, the tank trades combat

maneuverability for straight up speed.

Armor:

It doesnt have any.


20/36

Strongpoints marked in green, lol.

General Playstyle:

Hulldown tactics apply just as strongly to the T20 as to any other tank in the line, and with your

small turret, youre a difficult target to hit. However, you want to drop the exposure time andhide yourself during the downtime between shots. Unlike the E8, which sits itself into a comfy

spot and machine guns opponents to death, the T20 functions much more like a boom and

zoomer-use your mobility to quickly get it, hit the enemy with a single powerful shot, then get

out.

You cantrade shot for shot against same tier meds, and if you have to eat hits at all, this is

exactly what youll want to be doing, considering you have nearly twice the damage of most of

your peers. You wont out-trade the aforementioned 3 high alpha meds, but you do have better

gun depression and gun handling, so use cover to minimize exposure and fire a shot off while

theyre still aiming.

Unlike the E8, circling in the T20 doesnt work quite so well thanks to the poor traverse speed.

In most instances, youll probably be better conducting a drive by shooting, where you quickly

speed by and snap a shot off without slowing down to turn. Extremely slow vehicles (especially

TDs) can still be circled, though keep in mind that it will take quite a while to kill them, so make

sure there arent any enemies which could come to their aid.

If forced to engage enemies frontally, switch to your APCR round and burn right through their

armor. You can pen an E75s lower plate, as well as an IS-3s upper. 240 alpha matters even at

tier 9, so the T20 scales fairly well into higher tiers. In fact, if you load into a higher tier match, it

might be a good idea to pre-load an APCR shell at the start of the match, since your reload is

long and you wont know exactly who youll bump into first.

With above average camo and view range, the T20 also makes for a decent passive scout.

Next, the Pershing. Brace yourself, youre rolling with the big boys now.

M26 Pershing


21/36

Pros:

-Good gun handling

-Good view range

-Tough mantlet

-Excellent gun depression

-APCR penetration

-Radio range, lol

-Good HP, almost the same as the IS-3

Neutral:

-Alpha, for a med

-Camo

-Mobility in general, though the turning speed is improved over the T20 so its reasonably

comfortable to drive again

Cons:

-Relatively low DPM


22/36

-AP pen is a little low, though barely worse than the M4A1 Revalorises standard APCR shell in

light of the difference in normalization, so its still workable

Research Path:

1. 90mm T15E2M2 for increased penetration

2. Tracks for better mobility and increased load capability.

3. Turret for better HP & view range and a much better mantlet.

4. Radio, lol.

5. M46 Patton

Firepower:

Alpha is the standard 240 for tier 8 mediums. Punishing for lower tiers, but unrespected

by heavies and higher tiers. Once again, not a great idea to trade shot for shot.

Fire rate is improved greatly over the T20, at 7.32 base RPM instead of 6.38, meaning

missed and bounced shots arent nearly as painful. On the downside, this isnt high

enough to give the Pershing good DPM, which remains below average for its tier. Then

again, few tier 8 tanks have very good DPM anyway and the differences are generally

small.

For a tier 8 medium, the gun handling is above average. The aim time remains at the 2.3 s

youre used to, but dispersion from turning and moving the hull is greatly reduced.

Compared to its predecessors, the M26 is pretty reliable at firing on the move, and you

wont need to stop to aim for closer shots. Its still not at the level of the Pattons, which

can pull off ridiculous snapshots from ludicrous ranges, but its the first tank in the line

with bloom values that I would call good.

Penetration with AP is not great, but 190mm pen is workable enough in most situations,

though its not terribly effective against the IS-3 frontally thanks to its HD model armor

(would have worked fine against the old SD model). APCR is fantastic at 268mm, the

same as the standard pen on tier 10 mediums. As with the T20, youll be able to damage

pretty much anything.


23/36

Gun depression remains a fantastic -10 degrees, and you would expect nothing less.

Mobility:

With the Pershing, you go back down to the 48 kph top speed that youve seen on the

Shermans. Fortunately, you also get some turning speed back, with a hull traverse speed

of about 45.4 deg/s. Acceleration becomes slower, as you have slightly lower HP/ton than

the M4A3E8 with slightly higher terrain resistance. This makes the Pershing one of the

less mobile tanks in the line, though many other tier 8 meds are also a bit sluggish so it

comes out pretty average in the end.

Armor:

The armor on the Pershing isnt terrible for a tier 8 medium. The hull is similar to whatyoud get on a tier 7 heavy, which allows you to bully lower tier opponents with poor

pen. It doesnt get a whole lot of bounces against equal or higher tier opponents, though

this is true for the vast majority of medium tanks.

Your side armor improves to 76mm, which allows you to sidescrape in city

environments. Note that due to the thinner armor around the engine block (only 51mm)

and the frontal turret placement, you are much better off reverse sidescraping, with your

back against the wall rather than you front.

The bulk of the Pershings armor, however, is concentrated in the mantlet. Its a healthy203mm and curved to boot, which allows you to deflect poorly aimed snapshots from

most vehicles you encounter. You still wont want to sit in place against same tier heavies

or higher tier meds, as most of the mantlet lacks turret face reinforcement, and shots that

hit dead center can go through. On the other hand, the edges are basically impenetrable.

The turret cheeks are relatively weak and can be penetrated by same tier tanks, though

theyre not all that easy to hit, especially if you keep moving.


24/36

Strongpoints marked in green. Again, ignore the hull roof.

General Playstyle:

In most respects, the Pershing plays more like an E8 than the T20. It has a relatively

quick turning speed, with a more moderate top speed and acceleration value. The tough

turret is back, which allows for a greater degree of hulldown exposure than the T20. One

thing it doesnt get is high DPM, so you wont perform particularly well if you get rushed

down, especially by higher tier tanks.

Although the HP is near that of a tier 8 heavy, the Pershing still has significantly lower

alpha with similar DPM, which generally results in inferior firepower. Remember though

that 2 of your shots are worth more than one of theirs, so remember the 2 for 1 rule if

youre forced to enter a trade. Better yet, use your soft stats, gun depression, and mantlet

to avoid taking any damage in the first place.

At this point, you should have learned to use autoaim and fire on the move regularly. Ifyou havent, its vital that you learn it now; otherwise you wont be able to use the

Pattons to their full potential.

Speaking of Patton:

M46 Patton


25/36

Pros:-Blistering DPM, highest of all tier 9 mediums & heavies. (It actually beats the Foch and

T30 in this regard, even when accounting for the instant first shot.)

-High alpha, 390 damage per shot is a significant upgrade for little loss in RPM.

-Great view range

-Turns very quickly

-Amazing bloom values with very quick aim time

-Excellent gun depression

-Accelerates nicely

Neutral:-Same old 48 kph top speed

-Camo

-Pen is near the median, bit on the low side but adequate

-HP

Cons:

-0.39 accuracy is mediocre, still okay though

-No armor

Research Path:

1. Tracks first thing, unless you want to mount enhanced suspension

2. 105mm T5E1M2 for some solid punch

3. Top turret for increased HP, view range, better gun handling, and a higher RoF. Dont

worry about losing the mantlet on the stock turret, it sucks anyway.


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4. Engine for better acceleration and traverse. You can take this before the turret if you

want, comes down to your choice.

Firepower:

Its awesome. The gun handling is better than most tier 10 mediums, the alpha is the

same, and the RoF is similar-in essence, it istier 10 firepower. You can win against every

tier 9 vehicle in a straight up slugfest, save for TDs-and you can win against the Conway

even then (Waffle IV as well if you pen every shot with HE).

Because you have superior DPM against almost everything, you could theoretically win

1v1 duels simply by charging forward and holding down LMB, but there are better uses

for your HP. You have either better alpha or a better RoF than most opponents, so you

can trade shot for shot against the latter or go 2 for 1 against the former. However, thanks

to the gun depression and handling, you often wont have to take any shots at all.

Base penetration is one area where the M46 isnt tier 10. 218mm is okay, but you need a

perfect angle to go through the LFP of E75s and E100s, and you can get troll bounces off

IS-3s and T-54s. For tougher targets, I recommend loading APCR. You may not always

need it to pen, but firing gold means you can quickly snapshot your opponent without

exposing yourself to return fire, which is one of the Pattons main strengths. The higher

shell velocity also aids in firing on the move. In fact, Id recommend pre-loading an

APCR shell at the start of the match for that purpose alone, and then switching back to

AP if the situation allows it once youve gotten a good grip on how the matchup is doing

down. With full APCR, the M46 basically becomes a tier 10 medium with less HP.

Gun depression remains the fantastic 10 degrees that youre probably quite used to be

now.

Mobility:

The terrain resistance is the same as the Pershing, but the upgraded engine increases your

hp/ton to 19.16, and your traverse speed to 52.9 deg/s. This means you accelerate like a

T20 and turn like an E8. Unfortunately, you dont get the T20s top speed; it remains

capped at 48 kph on flat ground. Speed wise youre pretty middle of the pack, though the

M46 has one of the fastest traverse rates out of its peers.

Armor:

It doesnt have any.


27/36

Well, it does, to be fair, but just a teensy bit. The tiny mantlet around your gun will

frequently bounce high pen rounds, but its so small that people will rarely hit it.

Fortunately, the frontal profile of the turret in general is also rather small and youll

probably be moving a lot, making the tank difficult to hit.

Strongpoints marked in green, ignore the hull floor.

General Playstyle:

This tank is the epitome of mobile warfare at tier 9. Fire on the move, a lot. In fact,

probably the majority of the shots I actually take in this tank are fired on the move. If you

need to aim, the process is very quick, but this is usually isnt necessary because the

bloom values are so good. As noted prior, its possible to pull off snapshots from severalhundred meters away. I recommend using autoaim extensively, though you will need to

use arcade aim against moving targets at longer ranges.

Thanks to your DPM-alpha-bloom-depression combo, you have better firepower than

almost everything else within the tier. Given that the gun has the alpha of an IS-3 but

fires substantially faster, itll chew up lower tiers very quickly. Tier 9 in general


28/36

represents a massive step up in firepower for meds, and is thought to represent the point

at which mediums become approximately as powerful on a per unit basis as heavies. (In

fact, thanks to only slightly lower alpha and significantly higher RoF with good standard

and/or gold pen, tier 9 meds tend to punish exposed targets harder than heavies do.)

Unfortunately, you have no armor. This represents yet another curious blend between the

E8 and T20: Your DPM is very high, and you lack any real protection. The good thing is

that your damage output is more or less equally derived from damage per shot and rate of

fire, so you have time to hide in between reloads rather than being forced to expose

yourself as with the E8. When firing, autoaim or pre-aim the target, poke just far enough

out of cover to shoot, click, and then rapidly pull back. The process takes only a fraction

of a second, and many opponents wont be able to aim or react in time. This is

particularly true for moving tanks; most enemies wont haveyour soft stats, so they

wont be able to hit what little part of the tank youve exposed.

Shooting a healthy amount of APCR is a good idea in order to maximize the number of

penetrating hits and reduce exposure time. However, if youre poor, the tank also usually

performs well with AP. Gold is nice but not a necessity in most situations. It would be

advised for dealing with all tier 10 heavies frontally, except for the FV215B, AMX50B,

and 113, as those tanks can be penned almost equally well with AP.

With the improved acceleration and traverse, its once again viable to circle slower

enemy tanks. Note that heaviums are much more prevalent at these tiers, and one of the

more popular true heavies, at tier 9, turns quite quickly, so what you thought would be a

sluggish pondering beast can turn out to be surprisingly nimble. Track them first for bestresults.

In tier 9 matches, your mobility is good enough to contest key early game locations. Do

be aware of tier 10 mediums, as they tend to see a large increase in speed over their

predecessors, and can often beat you to the position.

Overall, this is an incredibly fun and highly rewarding tank to play, which makes it the

choice of many top players. It helps that tier 9 in general is very strong, with a meta thats

typically more dynamic than the gameplay present at tier 8 and 10.

Last but not least, the M48.

M48 Patton


29/36

Pros:

-Best medium tank gun in the game, and arguably the best gun in the game. Excellent

DPM, penetration, and gun handling.

-High view range.

-Great gun depression.

-Patchwork armor yields troll bounces.

-Slightly above average HP

Neutral:

-Still turns relatively quickly, but its more or less average at this tier.

-Accuracy

Cons:

-Huge, bigger than an E5

-Relatively slow for its tier-Poor camo

-Annoying tumor on top

-Armor is not guaranteed pen for anything but also not a guaranteed bounce ; you dont

know whats going to go through ahead of time

Research Path:

1. Gun, this is the only thing to research.

2. Congrats! Youve finished the M48 line. Enjoy playing your elited tanks and/or start

up another branch.

Firepower:

Amazing. The gun is similar to the one on the FV215B, but trades accuracy and APCR premium

for gun depression and DPM. Bloom values are extremely low, aim time is fast, penetration and


30/36

alpha is good. Its probably the most well balanced gun in the game. Nominal DPM is a little

lower than it is on the RU meds, but when considering the first shot alpha advantage, its

practically identical.

The gold round is HEAT, which can be sort of annoying due to its lower velocity, inability to

shoot through obstacles, and tendency to randomly no pen spaced armor, though it does get areduced autobounce angle. The preferred ammo choice will be your standard APDS round in

most situations.

Gun depression is a bit worse than the preceding tanks at -9 degrees instead of -10, but although

the M48 is quite a tall tank, the gun itself is situated rather low, so the difference will probably

go unnoticed.

Mobility:

Unfortunately, this is on the poorer side when it comes to tier 10 mediums. Most of the M48s

peers gain a step up in top speed, but the M48 actually gets a downgrade in this respect, to 45

kph. Not much of a difference compared to the M46, but more significant compared to the other

tier 10 meds.

Turning speed is also a little slower, at 47.5 deg/s. This is still fast enough to be comfortable and

wont usually prove an issue. Acceleration is similar to the tier 9 Patton, with better terrain

resistance but lower HP/ton.

Armor:

The M48s armor is largely dependent on RNG. There are both weak and strong points, and they

tend to be rather small, plus they sit next to each other. As a general rule, I wouldnt rely on it to

bounce same tier guns, but there are some days when SerB blesses you and nobody can pen. Due

to the unreliability of the armor layout, its difficult to actually abuse. Its more of a thing that

just happens to come in handy every once in a while.

One thing that willget reliably penned is your gigantic cupola, so take care not to expose it too

much.


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Approximate location of strongpoints marked in MS Paint green, changes depending on angle.

General Playstyle:

This tank actually plays a lot like a more passive M46. Its equipped with a high DPM, high

alpha gun with lots of gun depression and very little bloom, so much of the gameplay consists of

running around snapping shots off at people who cant return fire effectively.

One of the downsides is that youre not as suited to racing equal tier meds for early game

positions-which is not to say its by any means impossible, just that the M48 isnt as well suited

for it. On the plus side, random bounces can extend your lifespan.

Although the M48 has the highest viewrange of any tank in the game, it also have heavium-

esque camo, meaning you actually get outspotted by other tier 10 mediums while moving or

staying still. Where you do outspot them is when hey fire, at which point camo drops to nearly

0% for almost every tank anyway. As a result, the Fatton tends to serve as more of a reactionary

rather than active spotter.

Against heavies, the higher view range is an advantage because you can spot them further away-

sure, the camos lower, but its not a huge deal when you outspot such tanks by a significant

margin anyway.

The M48 is arguably not as good for dueling same tier heavies as the M46, seeing as many tier

10 heavies have strongpoints that are resistant to gold shells, as well as a good bit more HP

(whereas health pools for tier 9 heavies are almost the same as those of mediums). At the same


32/36

time, even better gun stats allow it to punish distracted enemies even more heavily, and the

improved accuracy aids in sniping.

This concludes our review of the traditional US tech tree meds. But wait, theres more! Lets go

over their crew trainer, the Super Pershing.

Bonus Review-T26E4 Super Pershing

Pros:

-Turns fast (for a heavy)

-Good APCR round, especially for a prem MM tank

-High camo (for a heavy)

-High view range (for a heavy)

-Lots and lots of frontal armor

-Preferential MM

-Did I mention pref MM?

-Relatively non-derpy gun (for a heavy)

-Fast downhills (for a heavy)

Neutrals:

-HP

Cons:


33/36

-Accelerates slowly, worse than most other tier 8 HTs

-Terrible AP pen

-No good AP pen

-Very bad AP pen

-Poor side armor

-Low alpha (for a heavy)

-Relatively low DPM

-Frontal armor profile has numerous weakspots, although theyre relatively difficult to hit

Research Path:

1. Buy the damn tank

2. Stick your crew in it

Firepower:

Its like a Pershing. The soft stats are worse, but the tank moves slower, so it evens out.

One big thing: The AP pen is a lot lower. This can be a problem when youre trying to makemoney (since it is a premium tank, after all). 170 simply isnt enough to deal with IS-3s, IS-6s,

KV-4s, and T32s, not to mention a variety of TDs and almost every tier 9 heavy. The APCR, on

the other hand, is almost the same.

Mobility:

Straight line, it sucks. Terrain resistances are pretty average as far as heavies are concerned, and

with an HP/ton of 9.95, you wont be moving anywhere in a hurry. On flat ground, youll top out

at about 30 to 33 kph-the 40 kph speed limit is only achievable downhills.

On the plus side, it does turn pretty quickly for a heavy. 30.4 degrees beats most of the SPs

competition, making it more difficult to flank.

Armor:


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Now we get to the good part. The Super Pershing boasts tier 9 heavy levels of frontal armor on a

tier 8 preferential matchmaking tank, meaning that youll be resistant to almost everything you

face.

The exact game mechanics for spaced armor are unknown, so I cant give you the exact

thickness levels, but the upper plate comes in at about 270mm effective against AP. The onlyguns which stand a decent chance of getting through it with AP are high caliber TD weapons like

the Jagdtigers 128mm or the ISU-152s derp gun. There are a couple of heavy guns which boast

enough penetration on their gold rounds to reliably penetrate-at tier 8, these are the T34, Lowe,

Tiger II, and KV-4-although they can still chance bounce, especially when angled. At tier 9, the

E75, VK4502B, AMX 50 120, and Conqueror sport adequate pen with their APCR to get

through. The others are limited to HEAT, which tends to be quite finicky against spaced armor

plates.

The center of the lower plate is about 230mm effective, with the corners being something closer

to 210mm. Gameplay wise, the frontal hull armor works very well against the AP rounds ofopposing heavies. Against APCR, you want to avoid exposing the LFP if possible.

The Super Pershings mantlet is extremely tough. Its 88mm of spaced armor over a curved

114mm mantlet protecting a 101mm thick turret face. Practically nothing you see can penetrate

this reliably. However, the turret cheeks are much weaker, offering about 120 to 180mm of

protection from the front. The areas covered by the ear flapsextending from the mantlet are

more resistant, with a protection value ranging from approximately 160 to 250mm. The main

target is the cupola, which is only 76mm thick, though its rounded profile increases this to

autobounce at the edges.

The machine port in the hull is an obvious weakspot, but too small to hit reliably in combat.

Overall, the Super Pershing sports the best frontal armor profile in its tier, boasting over 250mm

of upper glacis armor whereas most tier 8 heavies are looking in the realm of 200. Do note that

the turret, while good, isnt invulnerable like the IS-3 or T32s would be in a hulldown position,

so dont let them aim in on your weakspots.

The side armor, unfortunately, sucks. The front half of it is 76mm and the rear half is 51mm.

Theres also a small strip along the bottom of the side hull thats only 25mm thick, making it

autopen for any tank the SP is likely to encounter.


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Because most of the front is a strongpoint, Ive decided to show you the weakspots instead.

Green shows thin areas, while orange shows places that are weaker, but not particularly soft

overall.

Gameplay style:

The most important bit of advice to remember goes for both the Claymore mine and the T26E4:

Front towards enemy. Follow that mantra and the other team will die horribly, disobey it and you

will get blown up. All your armor is concentrated in the front, and most enemies will either

bounce repeatedly or refuse to engage you from this angle altogether until theyre forced to. On

the other hand, even tier 6 tanks will penetrate your sides with relative ease if they gain access to

them. If your tank is angled, make sure you either present the sides at an autobounce angle, or

hide them behind a corner altogether.

At point blank, enemies will be able to target your weakspots much more easily. To throw them

off, keep moving and dont let them sight in. When youre forced to stay relatively stationary,

wiggle the turret, raise your gun, and position it over your cupola to block shots.

However, at standard engagement ranges, the vast majority of your opponents will struggle to

deal damage, while you can shoot them with impunity using your 258mm pen APCR shells. This

makes the Super Pershing well suited for the role of a breakthrough tank that can effectively

force through chokepoints, opening up the flank for your allies to plow through.


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Because the tank is so slow, it will not be able to flex back to base quickly, so if you suspect

another area of the map needs your reinforcement, start heading back ahead of time. Dont wait

until you see the cap counter on the top of the screen to start relocating, unless you already have

teammates dealing with the situation on the site. Likewise, if youre caught out of position,

youll most likely die, although you can go down with quite a swinging if you play it smart.

Its said that to score wins in this tank, all you need to do is press R and 2 twice. Most people are

looking to get at least some money out of their tier 8 prem, and if this is the case for you, youll

have to know when to use APCR and when you can get by with AP. Learning weakspots is

highly recommended, though 170mm often isnt even enough for weakspots. Tier 7s and most

(other) mediums can be shot through with relative ease. Played properly, the SP is a very strong

tank for winning games and training crews, though its not the best credit generator compared to

other tier 8 prems due to its ammunition costs. I still advise purchasing it if you dont mind the

heavy playstyle.

On that note, it sells for 7200 gold whereas tier 8 prem heavies cost over 10k, making it acomparative bargain. The current plans are to remove preferential MM tanks from the ingame

store, so the SP may not have a whole lot of time left. (This doesnt mean you lose the tank if

you already have it, just that people cant buy it using gold ingame.)

US Med Guide

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