Underhood Service, October 2012

®A MAGAZINE

� Nuts and Bolts of Restoration � Solving Head Gasket Failures � Customer One-Liners

Circle #1 for Reader Service

CONTENTS

EditorEdward Sunkin, ext. 258email: [email protected]

Managing Editor Jennifer Clements, ext. 265email: [email protected]

Technical Editor Larry Carley

Contributing Writers Gary Goms, Scott “Gonzo” Weaver, Larry Bailly, Bob Dowie and Randy Rundle

Graphic Designer Dan Brennan, ext. 283email: [email protected]

PublisherJim Merle, ext. 280 email: [email protected]

Advertising Director Cindy Ott, ext. 209email: [email protected]

Circulation Manager Pat Robinson, ext. 276email: [email protected]

Circulation AssistantKim Hedgepeth, ext. 260email: [email protected]

2 October 2012 | UnderhoodService.com

Volume XVII, No. 10

20Memory LaneThe Nuts and Bolts of RestorationIn his second part of a two-partfeature, Gary Goms highlights themechanical challenges of restoringhis father’s Chevrolet truck. Thetruck had been in Gary’s familysince his father purchased it newback in 1955.

®®

A Publication

30

5420

30Tech FeatureRemember the TritonsOver the years, there have beennumerous variants, changes andimprovements in the Ford 4.6LV8.engine. Tech editor Larry Carleydiscusses service issues that arecommon on this engine and highlights its maintenance needs.

54Imported ServiceSolving Subaru Sealing ProblemsShop owner John Volz shares hisexperiences and tips on Subaruhead gasket service. While thereare various theories why Subaruengines had sealing issues, Johnprovides a step-by-step head gasket service procedure that hasbecome common at his shop.

DEPARTMENTS

06 Directions

08 Gonzo’s Toolbox

14 Aftermarket Update

42 Component Connection

44 Tech Talk

62 Tech Tips

74 Products

75 Classifieds

80 Publisher’s Perspective

A Publication

Brent Crago, ownerTop Tech AutomotiveCleveland, Tennessee

Albert Duebber, owner Duebber’s Auto ServiceCincinnati, Ohio

Marvin Greenlee, owner Meade & Greenlee Inc.Salem, Oregon

Anthony Hurst, ownerAuto DiagnosticsEphrata, Pennsylvania

Roger Kwapich, owner Smitty’s AutomotiveToledo, Ohio

Rick O’Brien, technicianCoachworksPortland, Maine

Tom Palermo, general managerPreferred Automotive SpecialistsJenkintown, Pennsylvania

Van Pedigo, ownerRichfield Automotive CenterRichfield, Ohio

Paul Stock, owner Stock’s Underhood SpecialistsBelleville, Illinois

Michael Warner, owner Suburban WrenchPennington, New Jersey

EDIToRIAl ADVISoRy BoARD

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Columns

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74


The auto industry won’t be

producing vehicles in the

near future that encompass

the options of the flying “Spin-

ner” cars portrayed in 1982’s

Blade Runner, however, the reality

is that we will soon be seeing

something more like the “Johnny

Cabs” that hailed from the 1990’s

film Total Recall.

In March of this year, the

Nevada Department of Motor

Vehicles issued a license for a

self-driven car, and in late

September, California’s Gov.

Jerry Brown, at a ceremony at

Google’s headquarters in

Mountain View, signed into law

a bill that his state’s Department

of Motor Vehicles is to write

regulations covering robot cars

by January 2015. The law also

allows autonomous vehicles to

operate on California roads.

“I expect that self-driving cars

are going to be far safer than

human-driven cars,” said Google

co-founder Sergey Brin. “Self-

driving cars do not run red

lights.”

There is a lot of speculation on

how these driverless vehicles

will impact the service industry.

For one thing, it’s going to take

technicians even more skilled in

computers and electronics to

service these vehicle systems.

Bob Lutz, former GM vice chair-

man and idea man behind the

Chevy Volt, said recently that he

expects mass-produced driver-

less vehicles on the roads within

20 years and that the technology

to operate such vehicles is

already available. Lutz cited

“smart systems” like

start-stop technology,

lane departure warning

systems, adaptive cruise

control and GPS guidance

— designs currently used in

some of today’s high-end vehicles

— will be combined by engineers

to produce the hands-free cars.

Together, these advancements

are designed to keep the vehicle

in its lane and at a safe distance

from the car in front of it. The

car will also apply the brakes to

avoid a collision, even when a

car driving 30 miles slower

suddenly pulls in front of it.

Lutz thinks this is a great idea,

since “cars don’t smoke pot or

drink,” and thereby the nation

will see a reduction in driver-

impaired accidents.

The vehicles could be bad news

for collision shops, as fewer acci-

dents transforms into less work

for collision shops. Insurance

costs also could decline.

While the expected safety

improvements are beneficial, the

aftermarket may see more miles

per vehicle increase, as the tech-

nology will allow more people

such as the elderly and those

who do not like to drive in

traffic the opportunity for more

travel.

Vehicles also could be pro-

grammed to arrive at your shop

for service or maintenance even

without a passenger. Let’s just

hope the “smart car” doesn’t

forget the credit card to pay for

the work. �

Autonomous Autos

“Self-driving cars do

not run red lights.”{

»Directions By Ed Sunkin | EDITOR

Google reported that its experimental autonomous Prius hasdriven more than 300,000 miles without an accident. Photo credit: Steve Jurvetson

{


Did you ever notice some people have anexcuse for just about anything? Did youalso notice how some people have a

quirky explanation for the problems with theircars? I sometimes wonder what some of thesefolks would think if they actually heard them-selves from my side of the counter.

I’ve heard it all (or, at least I think Ihave.)…nothing surprises me any more. So, Ithought I would jot down some of the wackyproblem descriptions and customer requestsI’ve heard over the years. For those who workon my side of the repair counter, see how manyof these you’ve heard before.

HERE ARE A FEW OF MY ALL-TIME FAVORITES:

“It’s not intermittent; I know it does it

sometimes.”

“I drive my car a lot, and it does this every day;

last time it was a month ago.”

“My car is going to blow up…I heard it ticking.”

“Every time I shut my car off, it won’t start.”

“My valve stems won’t stay aligned.”

“My brother used to be a mechanic, so he

knows everything.”

“I lost my voltage in the car.” (Well, go find it!)

“I’ve got a shortage in my car.”

(What are you short of?)

“I can’t afford the repair,

so just fix what’s broken.”

“I don’t want this car to last forever. I just

want it to last long enough until I can afford

one that will.”

“The tail lights went out on my car.”

– “When did you notice they were out?”

“At night.”

Two weeks after a customer has called, he

arrives at the shop and tells you, “I’m the guy

who called yesterday.”

“I’m not in a hurry for it.” (A sign they’ll be

calling in less than a half hour to check on it.)

“I need to pick it up today.” (Closing time

comes along, and they are nowhere to be found.)

“I don’t care what it costs, just fix it.”

(Sure you do!)

By Scott “Gonzo” Weaver»Gonzo’s Toolbox

Dealing With Wacky One-Liners From Your Customers

“My car is having issues.”

“I’ll have to wait on it, even if it takes you all

night to fix it.”

“All you mechanics are alike!” (I have a twin?)

“I should have learned to fix cars, so I could tell

you what’s wrong with it.”

“You’ll have to work around my dog, he stays in

the car.”

“I already know what’s wrong with it; I don’t

need you to tell me what’s wrong.”

– “So what’s wrong with it?”

“I don’t know; I sued the last mechanic who

worked on my car.”

“I want to speak to the mechanic who worked on

the car. (Oh you do?) Then I want to speak to

your boss. Oh, you’re the boss, well then I want

to speak to the owner. Oh, you’re the owner, then

I want to speak to someone in charge.”

“I saw smoke coming out of my vents, so I poured

water down them. Now when I turn on the blow-

er motor it gurgles in the car. Did I do that?”

“Here are the keys. It’s the blue one sitting out

front.” (There is only one car out front…

and it’s blue.)

Never a dull moment at the repair shop, that’s forsure. Oh, there are more wacky comments that Icould add, but I think I’d run out of room to writethem down. I’d like to think each and every one ofus at some point in time said something stupid to aservice person. I know I have, and I’m sure with mywacky sense of humor they’d be talking about it fora long, long time.

You just have to laugh at the comments after awhile. You can’t take it too seriously, or you’ll justdrive yourself crazy. Next time you get somebody atthe counter and he or she wants you to take a guessat a repair rather than actually diagnose it…tell himor her what I say. “Sure, I’ll take a SWAG at it.” Andwhen they ask, “What’s a SWAG?” you can tellthem: “Scientific Wild $%# Guess.” �

» Gonzo’s Toolbox


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While crystal ballgazing is gen-erally out ofmy field of ex-pertise, mostof us shouldnevertheless betaking a look into thefuture to understand how newtechnologies will affect the repairand parts distribution sectors ofour industry. Sad to say, most vet-eran shop owners respond to thechallenges of new technologieswith, “We’ll master new technolo-gies the same way we mastered al-ternators, disc brakes andelectronic ignition.”

Statements like this are morewishful thinking than well-rea-soned outcome because earliertechnologies were usually incre-mental improvements on olddesigns rather than the ground-up designs we’re seeing today.

Incremental DesignsAs for incremental improvements onan existing design, General Motorshas introduced its new version ofstop-start technology, which basical-ly consists of a conventional engineand powertrain in which the engineis designed to shut off when the ve-hicle is at rest. This feature is com-

mon to hybrid vehicles because theidea is to avoid wasting gasoline andincreasing exhaust emissions by al-lowing the engine to idle at stop-lights. The GM system is basically agenerator/starter assembly that’sconnected to the engine crankshaftby a heavy drive belt. A large bat-tery resides in the trunk area of thevehicle, which allows the engine to

be silently started when the accelera-tor is applied.Similarly, we’re looking at clean

diesel technology being introducedinto modern passenger vehicles.Diesel-powered vehicles are oldhat in Europe because fuel efficien-cy is an absolute requirement fortaxicabs and other commercial pas-senger vehicles. Clean diesel tech-nology applies the full range ofmodern engine control electronicsto create diesel engines that notonly perform as well as gasolineengines, but that also deliver muchbetter fuel economy. Because con-ventional mechanical fuel systems

For free e-mail updates with the latest aftermarketnews, tech tips and supplier promotions, log onto AutoCareProNews.com.

By Gary Goms

Babcox Memorial and AVIEducation ScholarshipRecipients Announced

The Automotive ManagementInstitute (AMI), inconjunction withBabcox Media,recently an-nounced PeterRudloff, owner,Pete’s Garage,Inc., Newark, DE,as the recipient of the Tom B.Babcox Memorial Scholarship.The scholarship recognizes amanagement-oriented memberof the Automotive Service Association (ASA) MechanicalDivision. The recipient receives$1,000 to be applied towardexpenses to attend educationalsessions and view the latest repair technologies and equip-ment during the Congress ofAutomotive Repair and Service(CARS), Oct. 10-13 in New Orleans. AMI, in con-junction withAutomotiveVideo, Inc.(AVI), alsoannouncedCharleneParlett andEdward Roth asthe recipientsof AVIEducationScholarships.The scholar-ships recognize automotiveservice professionals who havea strong desire to improvetheir management and techni-cal skills through education. Parlett receives $1,000 toattend CARS, while Rothreceives $1,000 to be appliedtoward expenses to attendseminars offered during theAVI Training Conference in LasVegas, Oct. 29–30.For more information, visithttp://bit.ly/RQFPmF.

Peter Rudloff

Charlene Parlett

Edward Roth

How Automotive Technology ChangesHow We’re Training

“We’ll master new technologies thesame way we mastered alternators,disc brakes and electronic ignition.”{ }

»Aftermarket UpdateBrought to you by:

Ford Focus Electric

have been replaced by a comput-er chip, service-ready training isrequired.

Ground-Up DesignsI think it’s obvious that federal en-ergy and environmental policy isthe driving force behind moreground-up research by auto man-ufacturers. Our most recent do-mestic ground-up design is theChevrolet Volt, which is essential-ly an electric car with its own on-board gasoline-powered generator.The Volt is slowly gaining accept-ance, much like the early Toyotaand Honda hybrid cars did yearsago. Despite the many criticismsof this new technology, Chevrolethad to build the Volt and get itinto the marketplace to gain themanufacturing experience andconsumer feedback needed to de-velop future generations of“green” vehicles.

General Motors gained volumesof real-world experience duringthe early 1990s when it leased itsthen-new EV-1 electric cars to aselect group of consumers in

California and Arizona. Whenthe EV-1 was eventually pulledoff the market, this enthusiasticgroup of customers actually triedto buy these cars back. Since itcost GM about $80,000 to manu-facture an EV-1 at that time,price was an issue. The lack ofservice infrastructure and theprojected lack of market shareneeded to support the EV-1 alsoprompted General Motors toscrap the EV-1 project. The data gained from the EV-1

experiment nevertheless sup-plied the foundation for the cur-rent Chevrolet Volt. Mostdomestic and import auto manu-facturers are now offering theirown versions of electric andhybrid vehicles. Given the uni-versal appeal of “green” trans-portation, many manufacturershave extended hybrid powerinto their high-end vehicle lines.

The Modern Service BayAll of this technology is basedupon computers and electronicmodules controlling vehicle func-tions. Advancing battery technolo-gy and power control strategies arealso improving performance andlongevity of battery-powered vehi-cles. In most cases, a factory scantool and database is required forany major diagnosis or repair. Be-cause keeping up with modern ve-hicle technology can, in the mostliteral sense, become a full-timejob, I think more modern techni-cians will find themselves special-izing in specific services ormanufacturers.

When we speak of tooling in themodern independent repair shop,we’re speaking of more than justbuying the latest “special”wrench. For example, today’sextended service interval vehiclesoften require a scan tool to check

» Aftermarket Update


Identifix Direct-HitSubscriber BaseJumps by 40% inLast Two YearsIdentifix, Inc. recently an-nounced three significantmilestones for the compa-ny’s award-winning onlinetool, Direct-Hit. Direct-Hithas exceeded 35,000 sub-scribers, with the numberof vehicle look-ups reach-ing 15 million per year.These numbers are up from25,000 subscribers with 12million look-ups in 2010. Inaddition, Identifix reportsthat the number of HotlineArchives has reached525,000, which representsa 25,000 increase over thepast six months alone. http://bit.ly/UlrhY5

various fluid levels in the vehi-cle. And, while the technician ischecking fluid levels, he alsomight be checking the generalhealth of the vehicle itself. Ifhe’s using an original equip-ment manufacturer (OEM) scantool or an aftermarket J-2534reprogrammer, he might alsoinstall the latest calibrations inthe powertrain control module(PCM) to correct issues coveredin the latest technical servicebulletins (TSBs). When he

repairs the vehicle, he has theoption of using the OEM database to access OEM repairprocedures.

I think it’s also fair to say thatthe modern independent shopwill develop more specializedservice bays and have a wire-less computer terminal in eachbay. The wireless computerterminal allows instant accessto various databases andallows technicians to repro-gram vehicle control modules

without moving the vehicle toanother service bay.

Another tooling issue we’refacing in the modern independ-ent shop is that many of theOEM diagnostic procedures aredesigned for use with the OEMscan tool. I recently experiencedthis when diagnosing a seatwarmer on a modern self-adjusting seat. The seat wasalso equipped with a sensorthat adjusted the cushioningeffect of the air bag by estimat-ing the occupant’s weight. Inshort, the aftermarket scan toolsimply didn’t have the abilityto “read” the seat control module, which rendered theOEM diagnostic data useless.

In view of the above, I thinkit’s apparent that small shopssimply can’t afford the toolingrequired for the dozen or moreauto manufacturers participat-ing in our domestic market.Most shop owners shouldtherefore move away from theold-school general repair shopmodel into a more modernvehicle or service-specificmodel. As for the future of the


UnderhoodService.com 17

GM’s start-stop technology, called eAssist, turns the engineoff when the vehicle is at rest and helps reduce the gasengine’s work during acceleration or on inclines.

Federated Winners Have‘Dream Weekend’Thunder, lightning and some heavy rain couldn’tkeep the winners of the Federated “DreamWeekend” from having a great time. The five Federated service provider cus-tomers who attended the Federated “DreamWeekend” in August in St. Louise were: DaveChristopher — Christopher’s Car Care,Tallmadge, OH; Howard Fulton — Cassel’sGarage, Melbourne, FL; Brad Heimbach —Brad’s Motor Market Place, Lafayette, IN;Rodney Gisler — Performance Plus, ThreeRivers, TX; and Troy Stariha — Kalama AutoSupply & Repair, Kalama, WA.http://bit.ly/OJunCN


“general” repair shop model, anyindependent can become a generalrepair facility, provided it hasenough service bays, techniciansand market support to do so.

Service-Ready TrainingOne of the major changes in the inde-pendent service market will be theneed for “service-ready” trainingwhen dealing with the new ground-up vehicle designs containing a high-voltage battery. In the past, the independent serv-

ice market trained after the technol-ogy had passed out of warranty intothe independent market. Much ofthat learning curve was based ontrial-and-error experimentation andupon bits and pieces of training andinformation.

Today, it’s nearly impossible todiagnose and repair modern vehi-cles until the technician has a formalunderstanding of how the varioussystems work.

How does the independent after-market approach service-ready

training? First, we generally can’tservice new technology until it’spassed out of its warranty period,so we do have the luxury of pro-viding most of our training slightlyafter, instead of before, the newtechnology has appeared. But, inanother sense of the word, techni-cians need vehicle-specific trainingbefore they attempt to service themany new platforms coming intothe general market.We do have a network of private

trainers specializing in specific sys-tems like hybrid vehicles or moderndiesel injection systems and whooffer classes that can vary frombetween three hours to three days inlength. It’s a tough market because the

time required to research, developand “de-bug” the material can bemonths and sometimes years.

One thing is for certain, the needfor service-ready training willbecome readily apparent as vehicleoperating systems become morecomplex. �


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In the August issue of Underhood Service, I

detailed the work that went into rebuilding the

body for my dad’s 1955 Chevy 3100 pickup

truck. This month, I’ll talk about the mechanical

challenges of restoring a truck that I began main-

taining when I went to work in a gas station in

1957. Because my Dad bought the truck new, I

recall in detail how the truck looked and drove

during the late 1950s.

This first-series 1955 Chevrolet 3100 truck

represents the end of an era in which a pickup

truck was built strictly as a utility vehicle. A few

months after this truck was built, Chevrolet

entered a new marketing era by introducing the

second-series 3100 with a standard 12-volt

electrical system and an optional V8 engine,

automatic transmission and stylized Cameo

appearance package.

Stages of RestorationBefore we get too deeply involved with repair-

ing the technology of that era, let’s discuss the

three basic stages of restoration: refurbishing,

frame-up and concours. Most “restorations” are

simply a variation of the refurbishing process

since most mechanical and cosmetic repairs are

done with the body installed on the frame.

The second stage is a body-off, frame-up

restoration. Because we converted Dad’s truck to

a V8 in 1968, it wasn’t completely original. So,

even with converting back to a six-cylinder

engine, my plan was to keep the truck as origi-

nal as possible while updating its performance

with modern accessories.

Any frame-up restoration includes removing

layers of hardened grease, dirt and rust by

patiently hand-scraping, steam-cleaning and

sand-blasting the various parts. Similarly, most

Nuts, Boltsand Screws By Gary Goms

»Memory Lane 1955 CHEVY RESTORATION


of the major parts, such as theengine and drivetrain are rebuiltto the original specifications andreinstalled. In most restorations ofaverage vehicles like a pickuptruck, it’s not too important to behistorically correct in all aspectsof the restoration.

The third stage would be avehicle that’s restored to show-room condition, which is general-ly called a “concours” restoration.Concours restorations areextremely expensive and are gen-erally performed by shops spe-cializing in that work. In thesecases, the technicians must beexperts in the original configura-tion of the vehicle and knowwhere to find the original partsneeded to achieve that goal. Mostpost-World War II vehiclesrestored to concours condition arerelatively low-production modelsworth a six-figure price.

In my book, it’s always best torestore the vehicle as closely to itsoriginal condition as closely pos-sible simply because vehicles inoriginal condition are relativelyrare and because they have high-er market value. To keep mytruck as original as possible, Ibought a copy of the vehicle’sshop manual on DVD and theassembly line manuals for thebody and chassis on paper. Papermanuals are also available for thewiring and electrical and for thebed. These are inexpensive andare essential for accurately restoring the vehicle.

Chassis RestorationAs mentioned above, the frameand running gear was painstak-ingly cleaned and painted with asemi-gloss black that is easilytouched up and less likely to

show surface defects. Years earli-er, I had rebuilt the front and rearaxle and replaced all of the springshackle bushings. The rivets hold-ing the front spring shackles andrunning board braces to the framehad loosened and, in an earlierrepair, had been tack-welded tothe frame. This isn’t a procedure Iwould normally use, but one withwhich I had to live.

When rebuilding the chassis,it’s best to replace all brake andfuel lines with reproduction linesand brackets available fromrestoration suppliers. If you’reconcerned about the safety andreliability of the single-pistonmaster cylinder, dual-piston con-versions are available. For safe-ty’s sake, I recommend replacingall brake lines, hoses, cylinders,shoes, hardware, drums andpark brake cables with new. Beaware that some repro parkbrake cables won’t mountsecurely in the stock framebrackets. I had to fabricate somesmall “L” brackets to prevent thenew cables from pulling out ofthe frame brackets.

While you’re at it, make surethat the frame-mounted shaft

supporting the brake and clutchpedals is horizontal to the frame.If this shaft isn’t aligned properly,the pedals won’t align with theholes in the cab floor. For whatev-er reason, the bracket holding mypedal mounting shaft neededstraightening and, since thebracket is made from 1/4” steel,this job is very time-consuming.

Before disassembling the frontaxle, check the camber angle oneach side. Back in the 1950s, amechanic had inadvertentlyswitched the spindles from side-to-side during a collision repair,which caused my truck to wan-der. Years later when I had myown alignment machine, Iswitched the right and left spin-dles to provide the most positivecamber on the driver’s side.

Kingpin reaming has probablybecome a lost art. When checkingkingpin wear, temporarily adjustall endplay out of the wheel bear-ings and make sure that thetapered kingpin retaining bolt issnugged into place. All kingpinshave some play, but shouldn’thave enough to substantiallyaffect toe angle. Once installed,the kingpin bushings must be


Before checking kingpin bushingwear, snug the tapered retainerbolt and tighten the wheel bearings to zero endplay.

For safety’s sake, the ’55Chevy got all new brakes,drums, cylinders, lines, hosesand hardware.


carefully reamed to a hand-pressfit. If the spindle is too tight toturn by hand when mounted onthe axle, the steering won’t returnproperly. If the kingpin is fittedtoo loosely, it will develop exces-sive play at an early stage. Makesure that the kingpin supportbearing is lubed and installedright-side up so it will shed water.Next, shim the endplay out of thespindle and make sure the protec-tive end caps are properly stakedinto place. One shot of qualitywater-resistant chassis grease at1,500-mile intervals is generallyenough to keep the kingpins, tierods, drag link and spring shack-les properly lubricated.

Last, repack the original ball-type wheel bearings with viscouswheel bearing grease and adjustto allow a few thousandths of aninch of endplay. If you’re con-cerned about bearing durability,tapered roller bearings are avail-able as a drop-in replacement.

Although remanufactured steer-ing gears are available, I rebuiltmy own. The major problem I hadwas removing the steering wormbearing cup from the adjustableend plug. I ended up having anew plug custom-built. If therecirculating ball portion is severe-ly worn, the steering gear over-center adjustment can’t be made.When properly adjusted, thesteering wheel should turn freely,but exhibit zero play at the steer-ing gear center point and somelooseness when turned to fulllock.

DrivetrainI won’t spend much time on dri-vetrain because the basic technol-ogy hasn’t changed much in 50years. Chevrolet trucks used atorque-tube drive through 1954.

The first- and second-series 1955trucks were equipped with anopen-driveshaft Hotchkiss drive.The basic four-speed transmissiondesign was used until the early’60s. Because I’m building a higher-revving engine for later installa-tion, I found that McLeodClutches in California still had thepatterns available to fabricate anew steel-billet flywheel to fit thedowel pins on the crankshafts ofthe early Chevy sixes. McLeodalso supplied the clutch assembly.Later six-cylinder engines use thesame flywheel as the small-blockV8 engines.

EnginesThe post-war 216 cubic-inchengines were equipped withpoured connecting rod and mainbearings. The main bearings werelubricated with about 15 psi oilpressure and the connecting rodsused dipper lubrication. Becauseengine life was generally less than70,000 miles in those days, mostdipper-lubricated engines wereeventually replaced with one ofthe many full-pressure enginesthat flooded the salvage yardsduring the late 1950s.

Full-pressure, insert-bearingengines first appeared in the 1953

Chevy sedans equipped withPowerglide transmissions. Thechangeover continued through1954 and, by 1955, all six-cylinderengines were equipped withinsert bearings and full-pressurelubrication. The engine ID numberis on the engine block, just behindthe distributor. Engine identifica-tion information is available onrestoration suppliers’ websitesand from antique engine restora-tion specialists like Egge Machinein Santa Fe Springs, CA.

My current engine is a 1954 261cubic-inch, heavy-duty truckengine that I purchased from theestate of a veteran mechanicfriend. I understand that heincreased the power on this freshlyrebuilt engine by installing the oldsix-cylinder Corvette camshaftand milling 0.030” off the cylinderhead. Getting the correct waterpump length is important whenswapping the Chevy 216, 235 and261 six-cylinder engines into theearly chassis. In this case, Iinstalled a new, short-shaft waterpump available from any restora-tion supplier.

The engine is also equippedwith a Mallory electronic distribu-tor, Clifford Research water-heat-ed intake manifold, Clifford tubu-lar header and exhaust system,and a 350 cfm Keith Dorton series,two-barrel Holley carburetor. Toaid part-throttle fuel distribution, Imounted the carburetor sidewayson the manifold. The carburetorhas replaceable air bleeds and wasoriginally designed for 2.3L, four-cylinder Ford racing engines.

When adding carburetion, it’simportant to either use a chart orcalculate the cubic feet per minute(cfm) air flow of the engine. Sincean excessive cfm rating will makethe carburetor difficult to jet and


The electric fan required hand-fabricated shrouding tohelp force air through the OEradiator.

will reduce low-speed throttleresponse and performance,always give the smaller carbure-tor the benefit of the doubt. Inthis case, 80% volumetric effi-ciency is just about all a vintageChevy six will produce.Therefore, a 261 cid engine run-ning at 80% volumetric efficien-cy will pump about 350 cfm ofair at 5,000 rpm. In any case, thisengine has plenty of torque and,with a 3.90:1 axle ratio and 27”diameter tires, it easily climbsmost hills in high gear.

Electrical SystemsBecause crumbling insulation is

an invitation to disaster, it’s nec-essary to replace the wiring har-ness, especially if your truckwill be used as a “daily driver.”

Since I installed a 12-volt systemwith manually controlled electricfan, electric fuel pump, late-model starter and single-wirealternator, I designed my ownwiring harness.

The first step is to determinefuse capacity by connecting abattery charger to the batteryand bringing the terminal volt-age up to 7.1 for six-volt systemsor up to 14.2 for 12-volt systems.Keep in mind that the amperagedraw on six-volt accessory willalso be about twice that of a 12-volt accessory. With the chargerin place, the amperage draw ofeach accessory can be accurately

To eliminate the bulky and messy OE cartridge oil filter, I mounteda remote spin-on oil filter inside the frame and a small oil coolerunder the radiator mount to help cool the return oil.

I used a 1/8” gas welding rodto mock up the carburetor bellcrank linkage. The hand-madethrottle pedal bell crank boltedto the inner firewall is mountedon ball bearings for smoothoperation.


The fuel filter and electric fuelpump are mounted together ona fabricated aluminum mountthat bolts onto stock bolt holeslocated inside the frame.



measured by connecting it to thebattery and checking the amper-age draw with an inductive ampprobe. In general, most acces-sories should be fused at twicethe amperage draw. Motorsmight require three times operat-ing amperage due to high start-up amperages. The fuse capacityshould also be consistent with thegauge of wire being used.

Because the original six-voltsystem provided fuses only forthe brake and tail lights, Iattached an auxiliary aftermarkettubular-fuse box to the bottom ofthe cardboard glove box to pro-tect the fuel pump and acces-sories. The cardboard is protectedfrom heat by aluminum backingplates attached to the fuse box.Not perfect, but the glove boxwas the only location under thedash that was convenient andfunctional.

The next step in fabricatingyour own harness is to use yoursearch engine to locate “ampaci-ty,” which will lead you to anumber of websites that will pro-vide the amperage capacity ofvarious lengths and gauges ofwire. If in doubt, go with theheavier wire gauge just to pre-serve mechanical strength. Ifyou’re staying with a six-volt sys-tem, an original-style replace-ment wiring harness has themuch larger wire gauge sizeneeded to handle the extraamperage required for six volts.If you’re going with 12 volts, thesix-volt wiring harness can bemodified as required.

Because I changed over to a1960s bell housing with the sole-noid-controlled starter, I had tofabricate the engine wiring har-ness. I basically stayed with theoriginal color codes and duplicat-ed the original lighting harnesses,

routing them through the origi-nal retaining clips and junctionblocks to provide an originallook. I routed the starter, fuelpump and ignition system har-ness through an existing hole inthe firewall and dropped thewiring directly over the top ofthe starter. I also kept the originalfirewall-mounted horn relay andbrake/tail light fuse box to give itthat “original” look.

The key to making a neat,show-worthy wiring harness is tokeep the wires running straight inthe loom. It’s best to buy a largebag of 4” cable ties to hold thewiring harness together until allwires are installed and cut to thecorrect length. It’s easier to neatlytape the harness by clamping theend in a soft-jaw vise and stretch-ing the wires tight. The tapeshould generally be lapped abouthalf-width. The wires should alsoneatly exit the loom to the acces-sory and be “y” taped at everyjunction. Practice makes perfecthere, so be prepared to wastesome tape and wiring to learn theprocess.

I recommend buying profes-sional wire crimping pliers (avail-able from any online speed shop)that can accommodate different

types of factory terminals. It takessome practice using extra termi-nals and scraps of wire, but mak-ing a factory-style crimp makesthe job look show-worthy.

But, following my own prefer-ence, I soldered all connectorswith a mini butane torch. It’simportant to use small-gaugerosin-core solder and to onlyplace a small drop of solder at thetip of the wire where it exits thecrimp. If solder is allowed tocreep into the length of the wire,it will cause a stress point thatwill cause the copper wire towork-harden and break. To givethe connection a factory look, Iplaced a half-inch length of thecorrect diameter heat shrink tubeover the connector crimp.

In any case, it’s much easier tofabricate the wiring harnessbefore the steering column,clutch and brake pedals, seat anddoors are installed. It takespatience to loom the wire into thefactory mounts, but a modifiedwiring harness can be fabricatedthat looks very close to the factoryversion. Before plunging into anyrestoration project, rememberthat it takes a lot of planning andre-do work before you achieveprofessional results. �

Here, the wiring has beenattached to the engine accessories,zip-tied together, and is ready toroute under the dash. In this case,I left the wiring zip-tied so I couldmodify it at a later date.


By Larry Carley, technical editor


Ford’s overhead cam 4.6L

V8 engine has been in pro-

duction since 1991 and has

been used in a wide variety of

Ford, Lincoln and Mercury mod-

els from Crown Victorias and

Mustangs to F-150s and Expedi-

tions. There are millions of these

engines on the road and there are

a lot of different versions of the en-

gine including two-valve and three-

valve single overhead cam (SOHC)

engines, and four-valve dual overhead cam

(DOHC) engines. The two-valve (2V) 4.6L was

the first production version, built in two dif-

ferent Ford plants (Romeo and Windsor). For

some reason known only to Ford’s engineers,

the Romeo and Windsor engines were not

|identical, which means you have to know

which engine you have if you are rebuilding it

or replacing internal parts. The engine blocks are

slightly different, the cams and cam gears are

different, the crankshafts are different, and the

heads and valve covers are different. For example,

Ford began producing the Triton overhead

camshaft (OHC) engine in 1997 in V8 and V10

configurations, which was installed exclusively

in its trucks and SUVs (not cars).

Over the years, there have been numerous

variants, changes and improvements in the 4.6L

V8. In 1999, 2V engines destined for Mustangs

got a Performance Improved (PI) package that

included revised square port Windsor heads

and deeper dished pistons. The Romeo plant

added the PI square port heads in 2001. The

“Not Power Improved” (NPI) oval port heads

also remained in production through 2000 in

the Romeo plant. There were also variations in

camshafts, front timing covers, cam drives and

timing chain guides used in the 2V engines.

In 1993, a four-valves-per-cylinder (4V) high

output version of the 4.6L V8 with dual over-

head cams and an aluminum block was pro-

duced for the Lincoln Mark VIII. In 1999, the

Ford 4.6LSOHC & DOHC Engine Service

2005 4.6L 3-VALVE V8

» TechFeature REMEMBER THE TRITONS

head ports on the 4V engine were revised for bet-

ter airflow, and in 2003-’04 a special four-bolt

main cast iron block was produced exclusively

for the Mustang SVT Cobra. The 4V engine con-

tinued in production through 2004 in the

Mustang.

In 2005, Ford introduced a three-valve (3V)

SOHC version of the 4.6L for the newly restyled

retro-look Mustang. Major changes included the

use of two intake valves and one exhaust valve

per cylinder to increase air velocity, torque and

power, variable cam timing and a weight-saving

aluminum cylinder block. The improvements

bumped the power output up to 300 hp (com-

pared to 190 to 250 hp for the older 2V 4.6L V8s).

All of these 4.6L engines are often referred to as

Ford “modular” V8s. The implication is that the

engines share a lot in common and that parts are

interchangeable. Nothing could be further from

the truth. The word “modular” only means that

the tooling Ford uses on its production lines is

modularized (standardized) so that it can be used

to produce engines with similar configurations

and geometry. It does not mean Ford designed

the engines so there would be a lot of parts com-

monality between all the 4.6L engine variants.

SERVICE ISSUESLike any engine family, there have been a num-

ber of service issues with the 4.6L engines over

the years:

One of the major issues has been that of chang-

ing the spark plugs on 2005 to early 2008

Mustangs, 2006 to early 2008 Explorer

and Mountaineer, and 2007 to early

2008 Explorer Sport Trac with the

4.6L V8. On engines built prior to

Nov. 30, 2007, Ford used a two-piece

spark plug that has a long steel tubu-

lar ground electrode around the center

electrode. This is necessary because the

plug extends deep into the cylinder head so

it can be positioned near the center of the

combustion chamber.

When you attempt to remove the spark plug,

corrosion on the outer portion of the ground

electrode and carbon buildup between the plug

and head can bind the plug. If you are not

extremely careful while loosening the plug, you

can easily break off the outer ground electrode

where it joins the upper part of the spark plug.

The busted metal tip of the spark plug and center

electrode remain in the head when the top of the

plug comes out. This same problem also afflicts

5.4L V8 truck engines from 2004 to early 2008

because they use the same type of spark plug.

Ford TSB 08-7-6 covers the recommended

removal procedure to reduce the risk of breaking

the plugs, and covers their repair procedure using

Rotunda tool 303-1203 for extracting the broken

tip of the spark plug from the head.

Many Ford dealerships are scared to death to

change the spark plugs on these vehicles because

they know the risk of breakage is so high — and

they are charging their customers a small fortune

(up to $1,000 or more!) when they break the plugs

because of the time and effort it often takes to

make the repairs. That means there’s a significant

service opportunity for the independent repair

shop that knows how to reduce the risk of plug

breakage on these engines.

First, don’t wait until the odometer hits 100,000

miles to change the plugs. When the plugs have

been in that long, the chance of corrosion and

carbon buildup binding the plugs in place is

extremely high. Many experts recommend chang-

ing the original factory spark plugs at no more

than 30,000 to 40,000 miles. The longer you wait,

the greater the risk of breaking one or more plugs.

Second, run some combustion chamber cleaner

though the engine before you attempt to change


REMEMBER THE TRITONS » TechFeature


the spark plugs. This willhelp loosen up and removecarbon that has built uparound the tips of the sparkplugs. Also, spray penetrat-ing oil into the spark plugwells from above and give itsome time to work into thethreads. And when you firstloosen the plugs, only turnthem about half a turn beforeapplying more penetratingoil and allowing more timefor it to work. If a plug startsto bind, rotate it the otherway slowly (retightenit) before trying toback it out again.It maysqueak inprotestas youslowlywork itloose,butpatienceis essential toprevent break-age. The last thingyou want to do ismuscle it out withexcessive force as thiswill almost always snap offthe tip of the plug.

Third, when you replace thespark plugs do not install thesame type of two-piece sparkplugs as the original equip-ment spark plugs. One-pieceaftermarket spark plugs areavailable for these applica-tions that virtually eliminatethe risk of repeat breakage.Apply a light coating of nickelanti-seize lubricant to theouter surface of the metalground electrode shell tohelp prevent it from binding

the next time the plugs arechanged. Do not apply lubri-cant to the very tip of thespark plug (near the elec-trode gap) as this couldcause a misfire.

You should also use atorque wrench to final tight-en each spark plug. Note thatthe early style spark plugs on2005 to early 2008 engineshave a lighter torque specifi-cation (9 lb.-ft. or 12 Nm)than those on later engines(which is 25 lb.-ft. or 34 Nm).

On the 32-valve 4VDOHC 4.6L engines,

sparkplugaccess isdifficultand

requiresa deep

wellspark

plug toolthat can hold the

plug securely as itcomes out. Drop

the plug and youmay waste quite a bit of

time trying to fish it out.These engines as well as theearlier 2V SOHC engineshave spark plugs with“short” threads (only four orfive threads on the plug) so itis relatively easy to damagethe threads in the cylinderhead if a plug sticks on itsway out, or if it iscrossthreaded or over-tight-ened when it is installed. Aswith the troublesome two-piece spark plugs on the 2004to early 2008 3V 4.6L engines,use penetrating oil and agradual back-and-forth

COMPLAINTS OF TICKINGAND/OR KNOCKING NOISESFROM FORD 4.6L/5.4L 3VENGINES

There have been complaints that someFord vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 3-valve or 5.4L 3-valve engine may exhibita ticking and/or knocking noise afterreaching normal operating temperature.The noise may be described as “ticks,”“taps,” “knocks” or “thumps.” In somecases the noise may be a normal charac-teristic of these engines. In other casesthe noise may require further investiga-tion. Sorting out and defining the noiseas reported by the customer is importantto successfully diagnose and/or repairthe condition.Before starting diagnosis, it is critical todetermine the specific engine noise thecustomer is concerned with. The cus-tomer should be interviewed to get adetailed description of the noise, and todetermine if the noise occurs at idle orabove idle speed, and if it occurs whenthe engine is cold, hot or both. Attempt to duplicate the noise, anddetermine the source of the symptom.Refer to the following ServiceProcedure to help determine the sourceof the noise and if a repair is needed.The 4.6L 3V and 5.4L 3V engines areinstalled in several vehicle platforms,which may influence the intensity ofnoise due to vehicle differences in soundtransmission paths, hood and body insu-lation packages, and root cause of thecomponent(s) causing the noise.


loosening technique toremove the plugs. The engineshould also be cool to thetouch, never hot.

If the plug threads in thecylinder head are damaged,there are various thread repairkits available for restoring thethreads, which is far lessexpensive than removing andreplacing a cylinder head!Ford TSB 07-21-2 coversthread repair procedures onthese engines.

Ignition misfires can be aproblem with any engine, andmay be due to multiple causessuch as a dirty or dead fuelinjector, an air leak in theintake manifold, a leaky EGRvalve, a weak or broken valvespring, a blown head gasket,fouled spark plug, bad igni-tion coil or spark arcing downthe boot around the sparkplug.If a misfire problem is igni-

tion related, remove the coil-on-plug and inspect the bootthat extends down around thespark plug. Carbon tracks orcorrosion on the boot can pro-vide a path to ground for thespark as can water in thespark plug well. Clean orreplace as needed. If there iscorrosion on the outside of theboot, it could be from anengine coolant leak at theintake manifold.Another common problem

on these engines is a brokencoil-on-plug electrical connec-tor. The plastic locking tabthat holds the wiring connec-tor in place may be broken,allowing the connector towork loose or make intermit-tent contact. Some bozo wholast worked on the engineprobably broke the connector


Pre-Checks1. Make sure you have a

detailed description of the noisethe customer is concerned with,including whether the noise isoccurring at idle or above idlespeed (Does it disappear above1,200 rpm?), and if the engine iscold, hot or both when the noiseis occurring. These engines gen-erate a lot of “normal” noises, soit is critical to confirm the noisethe customer is concerned with.2. Determine what environment

the customer is in when the noiseis most noticeable to them (insidepassenger compartment, next tobuilding with/without the driverand/or passenger window open,or beside the wheel well).Validate by using your own per-ception.3. Compare the noise generat-

ed with a new vehicle, if avail-able, with an engine build date ofMarch 30, 2005 or later onMustangs and April 18, 2005 orlater on F-150 to F-350,Expedition and Navigator vehi-cles. If the noise is the same, thenoise is normal and would be acharacteristic of the vehicle. Donot continue with this bulletin.4. Diagnose the noise when the

engine is at normal operatingtemperature (oil at 160° F, 71° Cor above). Verify oil temperatureby using a scan tool and monitor-ing the engine oil temperature(EOT) PID.5. Check the type of oil filter

installed on the vehicle. A dirty orclogged filter may cause a pres-sure drop. Look for aftermarketbrands not recognized in themarket or a production filter thathas gone beyond the standardFord-recommended changeinterval.6. Check for signs of which oil

brand was used and its viscosity(interview customer if needed),Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium


and never repaired it.Replacement pigtails for theconnector are relatively inex-pensive and simple to install.

The plastic intake manifoldcan be another source of troubleon some of 4.6L engines. On1996 to 2001 Crown Vic, LincolnTown Car and Mercury GrandMarquis models, the plasticmanifold can split across thefront (right behind the alterna-tor), creating a coolant leak. Ifnot detected, the loss of coolantwill eventually cause the engineto overheat. The front tempera-ture sensor fitting and rearheater hose connections mayalso loosen on these plasticmanifolds, creating additionalcoolant leaks. In 2002, the intakemanifold was redesigned withan aluminum crossover piece inthe front to reduce the risk ofcracking and coolant loss, and astronger upper alternatormount. If you are replacing abad intake manifold on one ofthese older applications, there-fore, install the newer upgradedintake manifold.

INTERNAL ISSUESThe 4.6L engine has a good rep-utation for reliability, but likeany engine it has had a fewproblems. The relatively longtiming chain that drives theoverhead cams is tensioned byplastic guides on many of theseengines. As long as the oil ischanged regularly and a good-quality oil is used (along withthe correct oil filter that con-tains an anti-drainback valve),the timing chain holds up well.But if oil changes are neglected,cheap-quality oil is used or a fil-ter that lacks an anti-drainbackvalve is installed, guide wearand/or breakage can become a


Synthetic Blend Motor Oil orequivalent is recommended. Oncethe above pre-checks are com-plete, check for sound level fromthe following components, in theorder listed. Compare the soundfrom these components to thenoise the customer is concernedwith, to determine the source ofthe noise.

Injection/Fuel SystemInjector noise (ticking) is consid-ered normal. Noise increases withrpm, hot or cold, and is recog-nized at the top of the engine.

Valvetrain Lash adjusters can make a ticking/tapping noise noticeable at anyengine rpm/temperature and isaudible through the wheel well oran open hood. However, with thehood down, lash adjuster noisecan be heard as a light tappingnoise through the wheel well andis considered normal.Tracing this noise must be isolat-ed to a cylinder bank. If one bankis louder than the other bank, focusthe diagnosis to the loud bank. Ifboth banks seem loud with thehood down, compare the wheelwell sound levels to one anotherand work on the loudest bank.Use a stethoscope on the top ofthe cam cover bolt heads to con-firm which bank is affected. Movethe probe from front to rear if nec-essary. If isolated to a specificbank, replace all the lifters, intakeand exhaust only on the affectedcylinder bank. If the noise cannotbe isolated to a specific bank, thenin the majority of situations thiswould not be a lifter-related noise.

Variable Cam TimingThe 4.6L 3V and 5.4L 3V variablecam timing (VCT) feature may emita light knock in normal operationand is audible only at idle speed,with a hot engine (gear selector inpark/neutral). However, it may bemasked by or mistaken for other


problem, and the timing chainmay fail.

A symptom of chain guidewear would be chain rattle fol-lowing a cold start. If a chainguide has broken, the chain ten-sioner can overextend androtate, changing the timing ofthe affected camshaft. This, inturn, may cause a rough idle andpossibly set a P0300 randommisfire code and/or lean orrich codes.

The camphasers onthe 3V 4.6Lengines canalso tend tobe noisy,producing alight knockingsound at idle.This is normal,Ford says. But if thenoise is excessive(under 1,200 rpm) or thereare cam-related fault codes, theproblem may be a bad variablecam timing phaser that needs tobe replaced.If you encounter a 2007-’08

Mustang, Expedition, Exploreror F-150 that makes a strangewhistling or hooting noise for afew minutes following a coldstart, the problem may be a badserpentine belt idler pulley. FordTSB 09-9-7 says replacing thegrooved nylon FEAD (front endaccessory drive) idle pulley withP/N 6L3Z-6C348-A should elim-

inate the noise.The oil pumpon the 4.6Lengine is a

front-mountedcrank-shaft-drivenpump.

The 2V, 3Vand 4V

engines alluse different oil

pumps, so makesure you get the correctone if you have to

replace a pump. The 4Voil pump flows more oil than the2V pump, and the 3V pumpflows more than the 2V and 4Vpumps.

noises generated from eitherinjector firing or a malfunctioningvalvetrain as described above.The noise does not affect per-formance or durability of the part.VCT phasers may knock at hotidle. It may be heard inside thepassenger compartment, or thewheel well area. Some light noiseis normal.

The engine may require a coldsoak overnight for a full diagnosisto effectively be made at hot idle,particularly when a VCT phaser issuspected. The knock is notprevalent at cold temperatures.

To Test for VCT Noise:1. Place the transmission in

park or neutral.2. Bring the engine oil tem-

perature to 160° F (71° C) orabove as indicated by the scantool EOT PID.3. Allow the engine to idle, and

determine if noise is noticeable.4. Set engine speed to over

1,200 rpm (if noise is a VCTknock, the noise should disappear).5. Return engine speed to idle

(verify knock returns). If the noiseintensity is more than a lightlyaudible knock at hot idle under1,200 rpm at engine operatingtemperature, replace the camphaser using the camshaft “In-Vehicle Repair” procedure foundin the workshop manual.


VARIABLE CAM TIMING



If you are replacing an oil pump, the pump gears must beperfectly centered on the crank so that the gears won’t bindagainst the side of the pump housing. This is best done withthe block out of the car sitting up on end so the crankshaft isvertical and centered in the main bores.

If you are replacing the oil pump, it’s a good idea to alsoreplace the pickup tube inside the oil pan if the engine isbeing totally rebuilt or has suffered a catastrophic piston orbearing failure that may have spewed debris into thecrankcase. Debris lurking inside the pickup tube may bedrawn into the new oil pump. Also replace the pickup tubeO-ring and make sure it is properly seated so air won’t bedrawn into the pump.

Also, you need to prime the engine’s lubrication systemwith a pressure primer. Add oil to the primer and pressurizethe tank with a shop air hose, then connect the supply hoseto the oil sending unit fitting on the side of the engine. Openthe tank valve to allow oil to flow into the engine’s lubricat-ing system and pump. It’s also a good idea to turn the crank-shaft one full revolution by hand before starting the engine.This will help spread the oil on the crank bearings. �

If the noise is only a lightly audible knockat hot idle under 1,200 rpm, do notattempt to repair this normal engine noise.

Startup RattleSome 2004 F-150 and 2005 F-150,Expedition, Navigator, Super Duty andMustang vehicles may have a rattle onstartup that lasts one to three seconds. Ifinitial pre-checks have been completedand the noise sounds like it is comingfrom the front of the engine, replace theVCT phaser (3R2Z-6A257-DA kit). If theengine continues to make the rattle noiseafter the initial startup, check for otherpossible areas.This information was provided by theAutomotive Parts RemanufacturersAssociation (APRA). For more informationon technical bulletins available throughAPRA, call 703-968-2772 or visitAutoBulletins.com.



The fuel pump not onlydelivers fuel but also develops the pressure

necessary to force fuel throughthe injectors when the engine isrunning. Most pumps generatefrom 35 to 80 psi depending onthe application.

If the pump stops running forany reason, or fails to deliver therequired pressure and volumeto keep the engine running, theengine may stall, run poorly orrefuse to start. It’s one repairthat cannot be postponedbecause the vehicle isn’t goinganywhere until the fuel delivery

problem has been diagnosedand corrected.

A fuel delivery or pressureproblem doesn’t always meanthe fuel pump needs to bereplaced. The problem may besomething else such as a badfuel pump relay; blown fuse; aloose, shorted or corrodedwiring connection in the fuelpump circuit; a plugged fuel filter; a pinched or restrictedfuel line; a leaky or defectivefuel pressure regulator; or nogas in the tank.

Accurate diagnosis is essentialto prevent unnecessary fuelpump replacements, returnsand warranty claims. To brieflysummarize, it’s important todiagnose the cause of a fueldelivery problem before replac-ing any parts. If a pump fails torun when the ignition key isturned on, it might be a badpump or it might be an electri-cal fault. If the pump runs butfails to develop normal pressure(which requires testing with agauge at the fuel rail on theengine), it might indicate a weakpump, a fuel line restriction or aleaky fuel pressure regulator.

Fuel volume also is impor-tant. A weak pump may gener-ate normal pressure at idle, butfail to keep up as engine loadand speed increase. A goodpump should usually deliver a

quart of fuel in 30 seconds.Other items that should also

be replaced include the rubbersealing ring that goes under thepump cover on the fuel tank,the fuel filter and the pump inletfilter sock inside the tank.Contamination is the numberone cause of fuel pump failuresas well as repeat pump failures.

On older, high-mileage vehicles, rubber fuel linesshould be replaced if the hoseshave become brittle or cracked.The fuel pump wiring harnessalso may have to be replaced ifit is corroded or burned. A newfuel pump relay is also recom-mended to prevent problemsdown the road.

A good source of informationon this subject is the Fuel PumpManufacturer’s Council(FPMC). They have a number oftraining videos that can beviewed on the AutomotiveAftermarket SuppliersAssociation (AASA) website. Goto fuelpumpinfo.org. �

»Component Connection FUEL PUMP

Fuel Pump Quick Tips


The July issue of Underhood

Service described two engine build-ups as a part

of Ohio’s Sinclair Community College High-Performancecourse. This article will discusstwo more build-ups, which in-clude 440 Mopar and 400 Chevystarting points with the resultsbeing huge performance gains.

440/496cid Mopar Build-upFor 65-year-old Jim Rose, hisengine build project started atthe lowest of starting pointswith a rusty 1967 440 blockthat had been sitting in a fieldfor a long time. He also had anultimate location for the engineon completion — the enginecompartment of a ’69 Dodge A-12 replica drag car and provid-ing about 600 hp, which wasaccomplished.Jim’s motivation for the build-

up came from his longtime fas-cination of big block Mopars.During the process, he foundthat there was a lot more to dothan he had expected. But hefound help through SinclairCommunity College.“The Sinclair instructors were

always right there keeping megoing in the right direction,” hesaid. In all, there was about$6,000 invested and “a wholebunch of hours of work.”

» TechTalk CAREER BUILDING / PART II

Engine Skills TAUGHT IN TODAY’S TECH SCHOOLSSinclair Engine Building, Part IIby Bill HolderPhotos by Phil Kunz

Automotive student Jim Rose is looking to transform a rusty 440Mopar block into into a performance powerplant.

“The Sinclairinstructors werealways rightthere keeping megoing in the rightdirection.”

— Jim Rose


The first goal was to increasethe displacement to 496, whichwas done with an overbore.And there was also a lot of pre-cision work required includingline honing and decking.

Jim decided that Edelbrockaluminum heads would berequired to achieve the 600-horse figure he desired.

“I wanted them to be the best,

so I carefully smoothed theintake and exhaust passages,”he explained. “I also used larg-er 2.20” valves.”Other upgrades included

increasing the oil pan volume tocontain eight quarts of 20-weight oil. The fuel is 115octane Turbo Blue with the finalcompression ratio about 15-1.

» TechTalk CAREER BUILDING / PART II SHOWING SOME MUSCLEAccording to Tony Begley,president of the Muscle CarClub (musclecarclub.com), thefollowing are the greatestmuscle car engines of alltime:

Ford/Mercury 427 Cammer1965The most powerful engine evermade was the Ford 427 Cammer,which was developed with theintention of taking on Chrysler’sHemis. Ford gave the 427 blocknew heads with hemispherical com-bustion chambers. To cap that, theyfitted overhead camshafts — oneper cylinder bank — which gavethe engine its name and allowed itto rev to an unheard of 7,500 rpm.With the regular single four-barrelcarb, the “Cammer” put out 616hp, but with dual four-barrels, itproduced a massive 657 hp. Withthis kind of power, the 427Cammer was totally unsuitable forstreet use. These engines were notsold to the general public, butabout 50 examples were built,mostly for professional drag racers.

Ford 428/429 Cobra Jet 1968-’71Ford unveiled perhaps its mostfamous line of engines — the 428Cobra Jet — in 1968. The enginewas based on the regular 428, but

400/421cid GM Engine Build-upFifty-three-year-old Al Christian, retired from the Air Force, hadthe strong desire to build up a 421 Stoker engine to serve as astreet car engine with about 500 hp and 550 lb.-ft. of torque. It was a long journey as he started with a bare Bowtie racing

block. The increased displacement was accomplished by a signifi-cant boring to 4.155”. The block was honed and the deck wassquared. All the galleries were camferred and the valleys smoothed. To produce the power he required, he installed a potent rotating 429 COBRA JET

Retiree Al Christian opted to build a 421 Stroker engine to serve in astreet vehicle. Here he seen installing a Milodon oil pan.

included larger valve heads, therace 427’s intake manifold andan oil-pan windage tray. It hadram-air induction and breathedthrough a functional hoodscoop. Output was listed at 335hp, but was rumored to bearound 410 hp.The 428 Cobra Jet engines werereplaced in 1970 by new 429Cobra Jet engines. The 429 CJwas rated at 370 hp, while theSuper Cobra Jet had 11.3:1 com-pression and was rated at 375 hp.

Buick 400/455 Stage 11968-’73In a nod to the performance mar-ket that was driving muscle carsales, Buick quietly introduced arare dealer-installed option in1968, which treated the 400 cidengine with a hotter cam, 11.0:1compression, stronger valvesprings and a reworked transmis-sion. Officially pegged at a mere345 hp, or just a 5 hp increaseover the base 400 cid engine,experts believe that it was morelike 390 hp and it dropped 1/4-mile times by one second ormore. It was called the “Stage 1Special Package” and was anindicator of great things to come.1970 saw the greatest Buickengine of all time. GM finally lift-ed its corporate ban of engineslarger than 400 cubic inches in anintermediate body and Buickresponded by stuffing a brand-new 455 cubic inch engine into itsrestyled GS. The 455 boastedmore displacement, bigger valvesand a hotter cam than the 400,and was also mated to standardcold air induction through func-tional hood scoops. The 455 wasrated at 350 hp and a stumppulling 510 lb.-ft. of torque. Thiswas the highest torque rating ofany production engine besidesCadillac’s 472 and 500 cid V8s,and no engine achieved it at alower rpm (2,800 rpm).

Chevrolet 409 1961-’63In 1961, Chevrolet introduced its409 cubic inch V8, the engine thatwould launch the Big Three automanufacturers into the horsepow-er race that would last well intothe 1970s. The 409 was actually aresponse to Ford’s new 390 cidengine, which was outperformingChevys on the dragstrip. Althoughit put out “only” 360 hp com-pared to Ford’s top 375 hp, thoseextra 19 cid gave it respect on thestreet and immortalized it in song(“She’s real fine, my 409”).

Unfortunately, the 409 alreadycame with 11.25 compressionand a four-barrel carburetor, anddue to its wedge-shaped com-bustion chambers was not veryeasy to improve performance further. In 1962, The 409 wasimproved by adding new cylinderheads and a revised camshaft.With the standard 4 bbl carb, the409 produced 380 hp.

Chevrolet 427 ZL1 1969The ZL1 engine was based on theregular Chevrolet 427 engine.However, instead of the regulariron-block and head L72 found inthe regular 427 engine, the ZL1sported aluminum heads and thefirst aluminum block ever madeby Chevrolet. It shared the L88aluminum head/iron block’sengine rating of 430 hp but madecloser to 500 hp — making itprobably the most powerfulengine Chevrolet ever offered tothe public. And the engineweighed just 500 lbs., the sameas Chevy’s 327 small block. TheZL1 was made available only for1969 under COPO 9560 andChevrolet needed to install 50copies to qualify the ZL1 Camarofor racing.


mass consisting of SRP aluminumpistons and Eagle rods.

Next, AFP aluminum heads wereselected. Due to the fact that thevalve springs were gauged forracing, it was necessary substitutesofter units for street driving. “Ihad received good commentsfrom builders who had used theseheads and they sure worked forme,” Al said.Other engine parts that were

selected were a Comp Cams rollercam and an aluminum Edelbrockintake. The carb selected was an850 cfm Demon. Finally, theexhaust was expelled by 1-7/8”full-length Hooker HeadersAl was looking for a 10.5-1 com-

pression ratio, which was what hehad been hoping for. What he alsogot that he desired was excellentdyno readings of 503 horses and565 lb.-ft. of torque. Definitely agreat build! �


“She’s realfine, my 409”

Chevrolet 302 1967-’69In 1967, Chevrolet quietly createda Z28 option for its new Camaro.Specifically designed to competein the Sports Car Club of AmericaTrans Am racing series, whichplaced a 305 cid limit on its entries,the Z28 was available to the publicsolely to qualify for racing. Whatyou got was a unique 302 cid smallblock that was created by takingthe 327 block and installing theshort-stroke 283 crank. Advertisedhorsepower was listed at just 290hp, which was not very impressiveuntil one hooked it up to a dynoand got actual readings of 360-400

hp. The Z28 Camaro proved to bedifficult to launch on the streetbecause its high-revving enginewas lethargic under 4,000 rpm andworked best when it was shifted at7,500 rpm.

Chevrolet 454 LS6 1970When General Motors lifted its banon engines larger than 400 cid inintermediate cars in 1970,Chevrolet responded by creatingtwo new 454 cid V8s, the LS5 andLS6, and stuffed them into theirChevelle and El Camino. The LS6used the same block as the LS5but added on a 800-cfm Holleyfour barrel on an aluminum mani-fold, 11.25:1 compression, solidlifters, four-bolt mains, forged steelcrank and connecting rods, forged

aluminum pistons and deep-grooveaccessory pulleys. The LS6 wouldbe a one-year-only engine as theGM-mandated switch to unleadedfuel in 1971 sealed its fate.

Pontiac 421 Super Duty1962-’63In the early 1960s, auto racing washot and Pontiac offered a tremen-dous selection of performanceparts and options under the name“Super Duty.” At the top of theSuper Duty option list was a specialline of Super Duty engines, basedon its 421 V8, which Pontiacoffered to the public in order tomeet new NHRA rules changesthat required engines and bodyparts for the stock classes to beproduction options on retail vehi-cles. The 1962 Super Duty 421 wasofficially rated at 405 hp, but trueoutput was rumored to be around460 hp. Although street legal,these engines were truly race readywith four-bolt mains, forged rodsand crank, solid lifters andNASCAR heads.

Pontiac 455 Super Duty1973-’74The Super Duty 455 V8 (SD-455)was introduced in the PontiacFirebird in 1973. “Super Duty” wasthe name Pontiac used on its highperformance (i.e. race ready)engines in the early 1960s, and theSuper Duty 455 was a street-legalrace-prepped engine. All SD-455swere hand assembled, and had areinforced block, special camshaft,aluminum pistons, oversize valvesand header-like exhaust manifolds.Pontiac rated the SD-455 enginesat a stout 310 hp and 390 lb.-ft.,but experts agreed that it was closer to 370 hp.

Mopar 413 Wedge 1963-’65With the introduction of the 426Max Wedge in 1963, the 413 Max



1969 CHEVROLET 302 Z28

1970 CHEVROLET 454 LS6

Wedge was dropped from theDodge and Plymouth lines, butthe 413 in milder states-of-tuneremained available in Chryslercars. For 1963, you could order asingle four-barrel 413 developing340 hp at 4,600 rpm and 470 lb.-ft. of torque at 2,800 rpm.Compression ratio was 10.0:1.There was also a dual four-barrelsetup that developed 390 hp at4,800 rpm and 485 lb.-ft. oftorque at 3,600 rpm.

Mopar 426 Max Wedge1962-’65In 1964, Chrysler introduced the426 Max Wedge Stage III.Improvements included larger-capacity Carter carburetors andlarger air cleaners to accommo-date them; a new camshaft with320° of overlap; modified com-bustion chambers with deeperclearance notches around thevalves; 13.0:1 pistons replacedby 12.5:1 pistons in the highercompression engine; and newexhaust manifolds designed forNASCAR racing.

426 Hemi 1964-’71As most Mopar enthusiastsknow, the 426 Hemi was not the

first Chrysler Hemi, but it wasthe best. Whereas the Hemis ofthe ‘50s were passenger-carengines, the 426 Hemi of 1964was conceived strictly as a raceengine, from the oil pan up. Itspurpose was to win big on theNASCAR circuit and dominateorganized drag racing.The street Hemi was intro-duced in 1966 in the PlymouthBelvedere and the DodgeCoronet and Charger. Bothengines were very similar. Thestreet and race Hemi had thesame cast iron, stress-relievedblock with a bore and stroke of4.250 x 3.750 inches. Theforged, shot-peened andnitride-hardened crankshaft wasthe same for both street andrace Hemis, as well as theimpact-extruded pistons, cross-bolt main bearing caps, forgedconnecting rods, iron cylinderheads and mechanical lifters.Despite all the modifications,the street Hemi’s advertisedhorsepower and torque ratingsstayed at 425 hp at 5,000 rpmand 490 ft.-lbs. of torque at4,000 rpm. Many people claimthe output was closer to 500hp. �


1964-’71 426 Hemi



» Imported Service SUBARU HEAD GASKET SERVICE

Subaru

Sealing Problems

After 39 years in the auto repairbusiness and 31 years as an owner,I’ve had the opportunity to read

many articles pertaining to the technicalside of repairing automobiles. I’ve also hadthe opportunity to write many articles re-lating to shop management. But, this is myfirst opportunity to write a technical article.

As a shop owner who specializes in therepair of Japanese vehicles, I thought I’dshare some tips on Subarus. I started mySubaru experience in 1979 working at aSubaru/Mazda dealership in SouthernCalifornia. I can assure you that in 1979Subaru was not the most sought aftercar by consumers. For example, we soldabout 125 new Mazdas each month but approxi-mately only 10-15 Subarus per month. Fast-for-ward 33 years and it’s quite a different land-scape for Subaru, which posted sales of almost30,000 vehicles in May 2012, up 48% over theprevious year’s number. Subarus, like many other nameplates, have com-

mon problems, one of which I’ll discuss in thisarticle. Head gasket failure has been somethingSubaru has struggled with to some extent sincethe 1980s. There are many thoughts as to whyhead gasket failure on Subaru has continued. Mytheory is that there is a horizontally opposedengine with an aluminum block and aluminumcylinder heads, two metals that tend to movearound more than the traditional cast-iron blockand aluminum heads found on most Japanesecars. A poorly designed head gasket material alsofuels the problem.There are some other issues that relate to

premature head gasket failure. Excessive corro-

sion has led Subaru to add more ground straps tothe car on the later models. The discovery of volt-age in the cooling system is believed to contributeto gaskets getting corroded and failing. AlthoughSubaru did have a service campaign that helpedpay for the repairs for some Subaru owners, theprogram has pretty much gone by the wayside atthis point.

The head gasket failures are found in a couple ofdifferent configurations, the most common ofwhich is the external oil leaks at the back of thecylinder head, generally most prevalent on the lefthead or driver’s side.

The second type is the external coolant leak, thecoolant leak most common on the driver’s side, aswell. Generally, it starts with the oil leaks, thenprogresses to the coolant leaking, too. I considerthe oil leaks to be of concern, but when we seecoolant leaking, the need for repair is more urgent.We generally inspect the heads for the leaks, andthen discuss with our customer the severity of the

Solving

By John Volz, owner Volv Bros. AutomotiveRepair, Grass Valley, CA


leaks. In many cases, you canmonitor the leaks for a period oftime before the repairs are classi-fied necessary or urgent.

The final type of failure is theinternal gasket failure that willproduce the classic coolant lossand overheating. We see manyshops try a variety of repairs,including thermostat, radiatorand water pump replacement,only to leave the customer withmoney spent on repair bills thatdidn’t solve the problem.

The best way to check for aninternal head gasket failure on aSubaru is to check for hydrocar-bons in the cooling system. Youcan carefully insert the probe

from your smog machine in theradiator (don’t let the coolanttouch the probe). The reading willbe more accurate with the enginefully warmed up. If the HC levelsare above 10 ppm, the head gas-kets are leaking internally into thecooling system.

Subaru changed the design of itshead gaskets around 2003, anddesigned its own coolant and spe-cial additive to help with theproblem.

The final topic I would like todiscuss before we get into therepair is cost and how toapproach the job. We’ve per-formed this repair more than 400times, and although each job isunique, the cost for this job varies,depending on how the job isapproached and the area of thecountry where the job is beingdone. I’ve heard quotes of$1,200–$3,200. I also hear peopletrying to do the repair withouttaking the engine out of the car,which, in my opinion, is not thecorrect way. (We will discuss thereasons as we proceed with therepair.)I would guess that 20% of the

head gasket jobs we perform

were done at another shop notthat long ago — long enough toget out of warranty, but not longenough to warrant the cost of the“discounted repair.” We also seemany shops, including the dealer,try to just repair one side, only tohave the other side fail within afew months.The other issues we see are

when the customer gets the headgasket replaced, only to haveother seals leak soon afterward,that should have been replaced inthe first place. This repair shouldnot be approached with themindset of “how cheap can it bedone?” but rather, “what’s thebest way to efficiently repair thevehicle so the job will last?” and“let’s deal with all possible issuesthat are somewhat related at thesame time.” That said, most jobsrequire head gaskets, a waterpump, a timing belt, drive belts,thermostat, idler pulleys, a timingbelt tensioner, tune-related partsand machine shop cost. In ourarea, $2,220–$2,500 is the normalprice range.

DIGGING INThe Subaru is a 2002 Outback

Photo 1

SUBARU EXCESSIVE A/C SYSTEM PRESSURESIf you experience a vehiclewith excessive A/C systempressures, rule out these quickand easy checks before makingany component replacements.Verify that there are no

obstructions to air flowthrough the condenser and/orradiator, and look in betweenthem for debris, which may beeasily overlooked.In addition, make sure to con-

firm that both the main andsub-fans are rotating in theproper direction and pulling airthrough the condenser andradiator toward the engine. Ifthere were previous repairsthat required removal of thefans, the wiring in the connec-tors may have becomeswapped during re-assembly,especially if the fan motor har-ness connectors didn’t comeapart easily. There have beencases where this simple checkwas overlooked, resulting inunnecessary repairs.Courtesy of Mitchell 1.



XX

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with 109,982 miles. It has excessive oil leaks from the dri-ver’s side head gasket and somefrom the passenger’s side. The vehicle had been repaired underwarranty by the dealer at about65,000 miles, and most likely therepairs were done without takingthe engine out with probably onlyone head gasket being replaced.To complete the repair, followthese steps:1. Disconnect and remove the

battery (this allows for a propercleaning of the battery box), drainall fluids and remove four exhaustflange bolts. I generally take thewhole front pipe off the car. Thisallows for better clearance andreduces the chance of damagingthe oxygen sensor wires.2. Remove the lower bell-hous-

ing bolts and motor mount bolts.Lower the car back down andremove the radiator, leaving thefans connected. Remove the air filter box and all intake boots. 3. Remove the upper bell-hous-

ing bolts, torque the convertorbolts (auto trans.) and disconnectthe two-wire harness plugs on thepassenger’s side. On the driver’sside, remove the heater hoses, disconnect the two fuel hoses andremove the evap hose. 4. From the front of the engine,

disconnect the A/C compressorfrom the mount and carefullyhang it near the battery box.Remove the alternator completelyfrom the car, remove the P/Spump from the mount, leave thehoses connected and hang themon the passenger’s side. See Photo

1 on page 56 and Photo 2. Theengine can generally be out of thecar in about 30-40 minutes. SeePhoto 3.

5. Remove the intake manifold,timing covers, timing belt and

valve cover gaskets. Clean all thedebris from the exterior of theblock before removing the cylin-der heads. See Photo 4.

6. Remove the cylinder heads,and spend time to properly cleanthem and check them for warpingor pitting. I can’t stress enough theimportance of this phase — thesurface needs to be thoroughlycleaned. Many shops or dealer-ships use a “wheel” to clean thesurface. This may be acceptable onsome vehicles, but with the headgasket issue being so common-place on Subarus, my opinion isthat the leftover swirl marks canaffect the integrity of the headgasket’s ability to seal once it’s re-assembled.

We’ve noticed on the vehicles onwhich we’re replacing gaskets that

were previously done at anothershop that they tend to have theswirl marks on both the block andthe cylinder heads. I don’t suspectthat the swirls will cause animmediate failure, but, over time,they can contribute to prematurefailure.

7. Use a razor blade to take thelarger pieces of the old gasket off,then use a sanding block toremove the remaining debris toget a clean surface. We start with220-grit, then we progress to 400and 600 for the final cleanup. Weuse 0.002” as the criteria for re-machining. I also consider if theheads have been off before and ifthere are swirl marks from usingthe wheel, I generally re-machinethe heads even though there maynot be any significant warpage.This step will add some time sinceyou’ll need to send it to themachine shop. Our local NAPA


Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 4


Auto Parts store’s machine shopprovides a turnaround time ofabout an hour on a pair of Subaruheads for re-machining.8. While the heads are at the

machine shop, we focus on theblock surface, using the blocksander starting with 220-grit asstated earlier, and finishing withthe 600-grit. Begin the task ofworking the surface to remove alldirt and leftover gasket material,taking your time to get the sur-face as clean as possible. This isalso a good time to clean theengine cross-member, wheremuch of the oil accumulates.Also, don’t forget the plastic grav-el shield — another area for oil toaccumulate. 9. Next, we focus on the front of

the engine. Remove the oil pumpand re-seal it, and replace thefront crank seal. 10. Once the cylinder heads are

back from the machine shop (seePhoto 5), install them with thenew head gaskets, and installnew cam seals. Follow the headtorque sequence. (Note: 2005 andlater models may require newhead bolts.)11. Check the front idler pulleys

for roughness. There is onecogged pulley and two smoothpulleys. If the bearings feel rough,I would replace them. We seequite a few cars come in that hadthe head gaskets replaced devel-op a bearing noise in the frontengine area. It’s a lot more afford-able to replace them while theengine is apart.

12. Inspect the tensioner. You’llgenerally see some wetness nearthe hydraulic area; replace itwhile it’s all apart.

13. Install the new water pump,thermostat and timing belt. Thetiming belt interval on this gener-

ation Subaru is 105,000 miles, so ifit’s anywhere close to its cycle,change it. Then re-install the tim-ing covers and closely inspect therubber seals. If any oil has leakedfrom the oil pump area, chancesare the seals will be swollen andwon’t fit properly. Note: We alsocheck the PCV system to makesure all hoses are sealing and areclear. Also be sure to install newspark plugs (many will requirenew plug wires if they’ve beencontaminated with oil).

14. It’s now time to re-install theengine. See Photo 6.

Once it’s installed, add fluids,and then unplug the coil wire andcrank the engine until you haveoil pressure. After you have oilpressure, connect the coil wireand start the car. With the batterybeing disconnected, the computerwill need to go through re-learn.We’ve found that if you let the

car idle it will accomplish thismuch faster, generally in 5-10minutes. Avoid touching thethrottle to help the process.

15. While the car is goingthrough re-learn, wait for the fansto cycle. There are two areas toclosely inspect. One is the powersteering pump O-ring where thereservoir hose connects to thepump. Movement from removingthe engine can cause the fitting tostart leaking soon after the repair.I generally replace the O-ringwhile the engine is being re-installed.

The other area to inspect iswhere the A/C lines connect tothe compressor, which is alsosubject to leaking after the repair.We generally evacuate, replace O-rings and recharge with dye aspart of our job. 16. Once the car is warmed up

and all fluids have been toppedup, I take the car on a road test ofabout 25 miles. This generallyensures that the monitors have allrun and that any issues can beidentified before the car isreturned to the customer.

Part of the road test includes atrip to the car wash. The car isthen brought back to the shop,where the inside of the front win-dow is washed and the car is vac-uumed. The car is then allowed tocool down for one last fluidcheck, and we then check for anysoftware updates from Subaruand re-flash with our factory tool.

Living in a rural area thatreceives snow in the wintermonths, Subaru is the choice ofmany car owners in our area.With Subaru owners being loyalto the brand, having the skills torepair their cars right the firsttime will also build a loyal cus-tomer following for your shop. �

Photo 5

Photo 6



» TechTips JEEP / CHEVY / FORD / MERCURY / LINCOLN / NISSAN / HONDAThis month is sponsored by:

Chevy TruckExperiences RepeatP0446 Code

Vehicle Applications:

2005 Yukon Denali XL 6.0L2006 Sierra 1500 5.3L2006 Sierra 3500 6.0L2006 Silverado 1500 4.3L, 4.8L &

5.3L2006 Silverado 2500 HD 6.0L2006 Silverado 3500 6.0L2007 Silverado 1500 4.8L

Customer Concern: RepeatP0446 - Evaporative EmissionControl System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction.

Tests/Procedures:1. Install the scan tool and

monitor the fuel tank pressuresensor value to be approximate-ly 1.5 volts and/or 0” of watervacuum (+/-0.5” H2O).

2. Run the engine at a hot curbidle and view the purge sole-noid command. Increase enginespeed and the purge solenoidpercent will increase. Controlthe purge solenoid with the scantool if available.

3. Verify the tank pressure sensor value does not go up (aslight increase of approximately0.5 volts/1” H2O is normal).4. If the value increases signifi-

cantly, disconnect the large hoseon the canister (this is the venthose). If the value drops, checkfor the filter to be plugged onthe vent solenoid.

5. If the value continues to rise,replace the canister.

Refer to bulletin #02-06-04-037Efor updated vent kit information.

Courtesy of Identifix.

This vehicle has a very specific wayof refilling its cooling system, and ifyou don’t follow the proper steps,you will run into overheating prob-lems and premature failures. Whenfilling the system with coolant, thecommon procedure is to fill the radiator and the surge tank and letit run until the thermostat opens, soyou can then top it off.

In this vehicle, however, thismust be done three times in orderto avoid air pockets in the system.When these air pockets occur, theywill cause the engine to overheatand create excessive pressure inthe system, causing the radiatortank to blow out, potentially caus-ing bodily harm. Figure 1 showsthe cracked seam in the outletradiator tank. Because this particu-lar step is usually needed to bedone once on most vehicles, weare noticing that many Cherokee’sof this year’s range are running onlow coolant levels.

Standard Procedure: RefillingCooling System, 4.0L Engine

1. Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drainplug(s) (if removed).

2. Fill the system using a 50/50mixture of ethylene glycolantifreeze and low mineral contentwater. Fill the radiator to the topand install the radiator cap. Addsufficient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise the level tothe FULL mark.

3. With the heater control unit inthe HEAT position, operate the

engine with the radiator cap inplace.

4. After the engine has reachednormal operating temperature,shut it off and allow it to cool.When the engine is cooling down,coolant will be drawn into theradiator from the reserve/over-flow tank. 5. Add coolant to the reserve/

overflow tank as necessary. Note: Only add coolant to this

tank when the engine is cold. Thecoolant level in a warm engine willbe higher due to thermal expan-sion. To purge the cooling systemof all air, this heat-up/cool-downcycle (adding coolant to a coldengine) must be performed threetimes. Add necessary coolant toraise the tank level to the FULLmark after each cool-down period.Courtesy of Spectra Premium.

Re-filling the Cooling System on 1999-2004Jeep Grand Cherokee with 4.0L Engine Can Bea Little Tricky

Figure 1 The arrows are illustratingthe 7” seam on the radiator outlet tankthat cracked open during operation.

» TechTips FORD

Ford:1998 Mustang1998-2000 Crown Victoria1998-’99 F-250 LD1998-2000 Expedition, F-1501999-2000 E Series

Lincoln:1998-2000 Town Car

Mercury:

1998-2000 Grand Marquis

Some vehicles equipped withthe Romeo-built 4.6L 2V enginemay exhibit an engine oil leakor oil weepage from the cylin-der head gasket at the right-hand rear or the left-hand frontof the engine. Oil weepage isnot considered detrimental toengine performance or durabili-ty. An oil leak may be caused bymetal chip debris lodged

between the head gasket andthe block, chip debris betweenthe cylinder head and the headgasket, or by damage to thecylinder head sealing surfacethat occurred during the manufacturing process.

If an oil leak is verified at thehead gasket area, replacementof head gasket and cylinderhead can be performed. Refer tothe following Service Tips.Particular attention must bepaid to inspecting the cylinderblock for metal chip debris damage on the cylinder head toblock mating surface, whichmay require block replacement.

Service Information

A service remanufactured cylin-der head assembly is available –P/N XL3Z-6049-AARM (left-hand),


Oil Leaking From Head Gasketon Romeo-Built Engines

Figure 1 Ford / Lincoln / Mercury

» TechTips FORD

XL3Z-6049-BARM (right-hand)containing: cylinder head assem-bly, cylinder head gasket, cylinderhead bolts, rocker arm cover gasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, exhaustmanifold studs and exhaust manifold nuts.

Always verify the origin of anoil leak by using fluorescent dye.At times, a cam cover gasket orengine oil galley plug (particularlyat the rear of the right-handhead) may be the source of theengine oil leak. See Figure 1 onpage 64.

1998-2000 Head Gasket/Cylinder HeadReplacement Service Tips

Note: Take extra care not to dam-age the head gasket sealing surfacewhen performing cylinder head re-placement. The success of the re-pair is dependent upon followingthe inspection procedure payingparticular attention to the areas de-picted in the accompanying figures.

� When cleaning the block deckof residual gasket coating, useCitrus Metal Surface Cleaner (P/NF4AZ-19A536-RA) and a plastic

scraper. Wipe with a lint-free shoprag. A shop vac can be used topick up loose debris/dirt prior tothe citrus cleaner application.Note: Do not use a metal tool of

any kind on the gasket sealingsurface. Resulting scratches willprovide a leak path.

� During normal inspection,pay particular attention to theright bank block deck area behindcylinder #4 or the left bank blockdeck area in front of cylinder #5around the oil hole breakout fordimples and impressions left bymetal chips. See Figure 2 andFigure 3 on page 68.

� The block surface around thecylinder head alignment dowels(two per bank) is another com-mon location for scratches ordimples.

� A known-quality straightedge should be used to ensurethe block surface is flat. If a dim-ple or impression measures over0.001” (0.025 mm) deep, it is rec-ommended to replace the block.This type of damage is rare.

� If the block does not passchecks, a new or remanufacturedlong block engine assembly must



be ordered. For truck applica-tions, which require use of theModular Engine Lift Bracket 303-F047 (014-00073) for engineremoval, use nine links of 5/16”

chain in place of the rear bracket.See Figure 4.

� As part of the inspection ofthe block for damage, removeany machining chips that may be

in the bottom of the cylinderblock bolt bosses. This can bedone using a pencil-style magnet.

� After removal of the chipfrom the block bolt bosses, and ifno permanent damage to theblock is found, verify that boththe block and head sealing sur-faces are clean prior to installingthe new gasket.

� During installation of thenew head gasket(s) and the newcylinder head(s) to the block,lubricate the new head bolts withan oil-soaked rag and allow oil todrip from the bolts, prior toassembly.Note: Inspect the new cylinder

head for damage prior to installation.Note: The gasket should be

placed directly into position andnot dragged or moved along thesealing surface to avoid damage.The gasket coating is essential tothe function of the gasket. Chips,scrapes or cuts in the surface ofthe gasket coating may cause thegasket to leak.Note: Do not apply RTV, copper

coat, aviation cement, etc. to thegasket or block/head surfaces.The gasket is to be installed dry.Any foreign material in betweenthe gasket and the head/blockmay cause the gasket to leak.

Courtesy of Ford Motor Company

» TechTips FORD




Ford/Mercury/Lincoln vehicles:2004 F-250 5.4L EFI2004-’05 F-350 5.4L LPG, Mountaineer 4.0L SOHC FFV2004-’06 F-150 4.6L EFI 2004-’07 Explorer 4.0L, Mountaineer 4.0L EFI SOHC2005-’06 E-150 and E-250 4.6L EFI; E-150–E-450 5.4L EFI; E-350 and E-450 6.8L EFI; F-350 5.4L EFI; F-450and F-550 6.8L EFI; Mustang 4.0L EFI SOHC 2005-’07 F-250 5.4L 3V SOHC; F-350 5.4L 3V SOHC2005-’08 Crown Victoria 4.6L, Grand Marquis 4.6L and Town Car 4.6L2006 F-150 5.4L, F-53 Motorhome Chassis 6.8L 3V SOHC, Mark LT 5.4L 3V SOHC, Mustang 4.6L 3V SOHC2006-’07 Explorer 4.6L 3V SOHC, Mountaineer 4.6L 3V SOHC2007 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L EFI SOHC and 4.6L 3V SOHC2007-’09 Mustang 5.4L DOHC 4V EFI SC

Some of the above vehicles may exhibit DTCs P0505, P0506 and/or engine idle rpm fluctuation and hardstarts. These vehicles may also exhibit DTCs P2111 and P2112 after keep alive memory (KAM) has beencleared, the battery has been disconnected or if the vehicle had a dead battery. On vehicles with more

» TechTips FORD


MIL On with DTC P0506, P0505 and/or Engine IdleRPM Fluctuation and Hard Starts

than 10,000 miles, the issue maybe caused by sludge buildup inthe electronic throttle body(ETB) leading to airflow beingless than desired.

Service Procedure

1. Verify the vehicle is listedabove.2. Using IDS datalogger or

equivalent, check the PIDvalue of ETC_TRIM. a. If ETC_TRIM PID is not

available, proceed to step 3.b. If ETC_TRIM PID is

available, proceed to step 4. 3. Reprogram the PCM to the

latest calibration using inte-grated diagnostic system (IDS)release 75.03A and higher.Calibration files may also beobtained atwww.motorcraft.com.4. With the vehicle in park or

neutral and the A/C off, startthe vehicle and allow theengine to reach normal operat-ing temperature (greater than170° F [77° C] coolant temperature).

5. While the engine is run-ning, using IDS datalogger orequivalent, check the PIDvalue of ETC_TRIM.a. If ETC_TRIM value is 3.0

degrees or greater, proceed tostep 6.b. If ETC_TRIM value is less

than 3.0 degrees, but driveabilityconcerns persist, the ETB is notthe likely cause of the concernand replacement is not neces-sary. Continue with normalpowertrain control/emissionsdiagnostics (PC/ED).6. Remove the ETB following

Workshop Manual Section303-04.

7. Using Motorcraft Chokeand Linkage Cleaner or equiva-lent, spray the throttle bodyplate and bore. Using a small,soft, solvent-resistant brush,clean the edges of the throttleplate and the mating surface ofthe throttle bore to remove allengine deposit buildup.Reapply the cleaner. 8. Install the throttle body. Courtesy of Mitchell 1.

» TechTips FORD / NISSAN


Nissan Makes NoiseWhen Turning

Applied Vehicles:2007-’11 Versa (C11); 2007-’10:All VINs; and 2011 vehicles builtbefore 3N1(*)C1(*)P(*)BL 465717

Confirm that a noise (clunking,popping or bumping) is comingfrom the front strut assemblywhen the steering wheel is turned.

Service Procedure

1. Remove one of the front suspension coil springs.

2. Use brake cleaner to clean thetop and bottom ends of the spring.

3. Install the Tube-Spr Bottom(gray) (P/N 55018-ZN90B) ontothe bottom end of the spring.Starting at the end of the spring,push the rounded/trimmed endof the tube onto the spring. Note: The end of the tube must

extend 0-6 mm past the end ofthe spring. Squeeze the tube toensure a good bond (there isglue inside the tube).

4. Install the Tube-Spr Top(green) onto the top end of thespring. Starting at the end of thespring, push the rounded/trimmed end of the tube onto thespring. The end of the tube mustextend 4-10 mm past the end ofthe spring. Squeeze the tube toensure a good bond.

5. All 2010 and applicable 2011Versa: Proceed to step 6. 2007-’09Versa only: Replace the strutmounting bearing with P/N54325-JE20C.6. Reinstall all removed parts.

When re-installing the strutmount insulator, apply BitmenWax to the center nut after tight-ening it to the specified torque.

7. Perform this procedure on theother front suspension coil spring.Courtesy of ALLDATA.

Applies To:

2009-’10 Fit – All2011 Fit - From VINJHMGE8...B5000001 throughJHMGE8...B50000122011 Fit - From VINJHMGE8...BC000001 throughJHMGE8...BC012605

Symptom

The HVAC blower motor worksonly on high speed.

Probable Cause

Excessive current draw from theHVAC blower motor causes theblower resistor to fail.

Corrective Action

Replace the HVAC blower motorand the blower resistor.

Parts Information

HVAC Blower Motor: P/N 79310-TF0-G01 Blower Resistor: P/N 79335-TF0-G01


HONDA » TechTips

Figure 1 HONDA

Honda Fit’s HVAC Blower Motor WorksOnly On High Speed

» TechTips HONDA


Repair Procedure

1. Remove the pas-senger-side dashboardundercover (see Figure

1 on page 71): – Gently pull down

the front edge todetach the clips.

– Pull the covertoward you to releasethe pins.2. Replace the HVAC

blower motor (seeFigure 2):– Disconnect the

connector.– Remove the three

screws and the blowermotor.– Install the new blow-

er motor with the threescrews, then connectthe connector.

3. Replace the blowerresistor (see Figure 3):– Disconnect the

connector.– Remove the two screws and the blower resistor. Install the new

blower resistor with the two screws, then connect the connector.4. Reinstall the passenger’s dashboard undercover by pushing the pins

and the clips securely into place. Replace any damaged clips. Courtesy of ALLDATA �

Figure 2 HONDA

Figure 3 HONDA

»Shop


Schaeffler Group USA and Litenshave announced a joint advertising program aimed at educating the automotive aftermarket on the importance of replacing OE overrun-ning alternator pulleys and overrun-ning alternator decouplers with likeproducts. The four-page insert in-cluded in this issue of UnderhoodService features technical informa-tion regarding the differences between OAPs and OADs and common applications for each typeof technology. The campaign pro-motes the availability of OAPs andOADs at selected distributors in theUnited States. For more information,visit Schaeffler-Aftermarket.us or decouplerpulley.com.Circle #95 for information

TechSmart’s mission is to create an advanced line of engine control products to helptoday’s technicians find newand better ways to solve theircustomers’ issues. The Fall2012 New Parts Guide contains14 new categories such asheadlight level sensors, waste-gate frequency control valves,variable intake manifold actua-tors and HID headlight ballasts. Circle #99 for information

TRICO Ice, an all-new, winter weather blade, provides maximum performance in extreme winter driving environments. This blade style fea-tures a wedge-shaped spoiler that clears away snow and ice buildup. Thenew design conforms to glass shapes to distribute even pressure for a clearwipe, while the low-profile contour complements new vehicle models andmaximizes line of sight. Teflon-infused rubber resists tearing and ripping insub-zero temperatures to eliminate chatter for a smoother, quieter wipe.Currently offered in lengths of 16-28”. Visit tricoproducts.com/ice. Circle #98 for information

Get 5 quarts of Castrol GTX Conventional Motor Oil plus a NAPASilver Oil Filter — on sale for $20.56at your local NAPA AUTO PARTSStore this October. And don’t forgetto watch Martin Truex Jr. and the#56 NAPA Car in their hunt for theSprint Cup Series Championship!See participating stores for details.Circle #96 for information

95

96

98 99

97

Spectra Premium has introduced a line extension to itsFuel Delivery category. Electrical and mechanical fuelpumps and fuel strainer solutions are now available alongwith the current offering of fuel pump assemblies. Offering200 new part numbers, this extension provides coverageon more than 185 million registered vehicles (U.S. andCanada) for both earlier and late models, import and domestic applications. Installation instructions are includedin every box. Circle #97 for information

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AD INDEX

Advertiser . . . . . . . . . .Page Number

ACDelco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 27, 57

Advance Auto Parts Professional . .47

Airtex Corporation . . . . . . . . . . .43, 66

Atlas Copco Compressors LLC. . . . .41

Auto Value/Bumper to Bumper . . . .Cover 4

AutoZone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 13

Bartec USA, LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69

Bosch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

CARDONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

DEA Products/Pioneer Inc . . . . . . . .21

Delphi Products & Service Solutions . . . . .15

Federated Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Fel-Pro . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34, 35, 52, 53

Ford Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33,45

Hughes Engines, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .70

iATN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69

Jasper Engines & Transmissions . . . .63, 72

King Electronics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

MACS Worldwide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

MAHLE Clevite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Motorcraftservice.com . . . . . . . . . . .40

Mr Gasket Performance Group . . . .50

NAPA . . .Cover Card, Cover 2, 49, 67

NGK Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

O'Reilly Auto Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Parts Master . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Parts Plus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Performance Friction . . . . . . . . . . . .73

Red Kap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Rislone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68

Schaeffler Group USA . . . . . .9, Insert

Sea Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71

TechSmart/SMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Trico Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64, 65

TYC/Genera Corp. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Walker Products, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .61

WIX Filters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36, 37



ECM’s & MAF’s

Call Toll Free1-UPS-OUR-ECMS(1-877-687-326(1-877-687-32677 ))

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Bobbie [email protected], ext. 238

Dean Martin [email protected] 330-670-1234, ext. 225

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List Sales Manager Don [email protected], ext. 286

Classified Sales Tom [email protected], ext. 224


“Something has changed,” was acomment made by a colleaguewho stopped by my office recent-ly. It took her a few minutes torealize I had rearranged my office furniture. You may havesaid the same thing when youread this issue of Underhood

Service, beginning with our new,more vibrant logo, plus largertype size and bigger photos.

We know you’re busy andunderstand we need to get tothe point. That means fewerwords and more photos toenhance the in-depth, technicalunder-the-hood subject matterthat you count on with everyissue of Underhood Service. We

work each month to fulfill ourpromise to you by deliveringcompelling content, industrynews, product information andmessaging from our valuedadvertisers. Our plan to make the change,

which began earlier this year,wrapped up in mid-September.We addressed every detail ofour magazine by involving a

number of our team membersacross our organization. This re-design exercise reminded me ofwhat an incredible, passionateand opinionated bunch we haveunder one roof. Our talentedgroup of professionals, picturedbelow, includes our inspiring

graphic designers, smart andindustry-engaged editors andsupportive management team.Collectively, our aftermarketand publishing experienceexceeds 175+ years, but thatdoesn’t mean much unless youare pleased with the results.

But our project isn’t completed.We have exciting plans to bringinteractive technology withinour pages to connect youdirectly to video and ultra-coolgraphics from your smartphone or tablet.

All great stuff! Stay tuned!Please share your comments

with me. It’s always nice to hearfrom you.

— [email protected] ext. 280

»Publisher’s Perspective By Jim Merle | PUBLISHER

We Know You’re Busy...

“Something has changed”

} }

Underhood Service, October 2012

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