Two African trips with notes and suggestions on big game preservation

8/14/2019 Two African trips with notes and suggestions on big game preservation

1/402Publ

icDomainintheUnitedStates,Google-digitized

/http://www.hathitrust.org/access_us

e#pd-us-google

Two African trips, with notes and suggestions on big game preservation

in Africa; by Edward North Buxton ...

Buxton, Edward North, 1840-1924.

London, E. Stanford, 1902.

http://hdl.handle.net/2027/nyp.33433066593553

Public Domain in the United States,

Google-digitized

h t t p : / / w w w . h a t h i t r u s t . o r g / a c c e s s _ u s e # p d - u s - g o o g l e

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orthBuxton

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TR PS



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O N S O N

A T O N I N A R C A

T O N

R T S TA L S , ET C .

Map

S T AN O R D

R E , W . C .



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a



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this volumedealwiththe

aytripsin Africa,onein

r intheSoudan.I neach

a monthinagoodgame-district,

andtravellinggentlyfromcamp

ttle morethanatranscription

haveputintoapermanentform

o areinterestedinthesame

iththese I havecombinedreproduc-

tographswhichseemedbestto

sof suchj ourneysandthe

eandwild animalswhichI

ould bebetterdescribedasa

umeoftravels.

brie f journeys, underta en

enotitle tospea with

ectsaffectingthosegreatterri-

cla imspeggedout byB ritish

erandSirHarry J ohnstonhave

onsof theSoudanandEast



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N TR P S

emaintheclassicsof the

reannually supplementedbyBlue

cream ofofficialinformation,and

rybonesofstatistics.Tothese

utevensounprof itableapersonas

r mayhaveapurpose, andmy

uralistsandsportsmeninthese

secondingtheeffortsof those

e endeavouringtopreservethe

ythecreationof asoundpublic

gmyselfhuntedmanybeastsin

s,I haveusedmyopportunities

derwhich theyprosperorthe

mtohavedefiniteideason thesub-

sow sthatthequestionisurgent.

dedachapterdea lingw iththissub ect.

o f tenregrettedthatI had

ulcameraandthus secured

wonderfulherdswhichinhabit

s,opportunitiesforwhichmay

ecomesrarer andwilder.This

mytriptotheWhiteNilebyone

stcameras. I havedescribedthe

useby theamateur,especially

,hadnopreviouspracticewith it.

veherereproducedshowatleast

ainedbymorecompetenthands.

uponI donotdoubt,butI



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emptinafieldof investigation

estingresults.I canatany

t thisformofamusementis

demandsmorepatienceand

ertorments,morek nowledgeof

aword,bettersportmanshipthan

trigger andw henasuccessful

neditis ahigherachievement,

sport,thanatrophy,however

donotpretendtothe rdleofa

hopethatmypictureswill notbe

birdsandbeastshereportrayed

, sti l l l iv ingthe irl if e inthesame

esthisvolumeshowsthe

allthe GameReservesin

rritoriesandtheSoudan,and

ter.

enera lSirF rancisWingate ,

heSoudan,aswellasother

,fortheirassistancein defining

undariesofthedistrictsinto

divided.

Mr. S. H. W hitbread, andMr.

wedmetoreproducepicturesof

Dance, " A K hartoumNuggar,

Ec ar p me n t, s u b e c ts o f wh i ch m y

fect.



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ANTR PS

pshotsmustbeso described

eredtolerable,it isdueto

Mr.H .T.Malby,andtoMr.

producedthem.



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:n in).



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R C A 1

E45

A T O N . . 1 1 5



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1 I i . )i

i ,



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. F rontispiece

. Tofacepagei

.

ix

xi

1

7

9

. 1 1

15

17

. 1 9

. , 23

25

3

ngHippos. . 37

nt... 39



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TR PS

by



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.Tofacepagelib

, 117

119

, 121

moise lleC ranes. 123

... ,,125

, 127

. . . , , 131

. , , 133

, , 137

, 139

B ound.. . 141

, . 153

, , 171

5



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TR PS

R C A

oftravellersandsportsmen,

indnessofaprominentofficial

mettoconsidertheq uestionof the

ameofAfrica. Theq uestion

plehopedforsomeresults from

ferenceofthegreatPowershaving

assembledunderLordSalis-

feruponthemeasurestobeta en.

irst-namedgathering,I paida

hterin thesummerof1899

tedforafew w ee sinsome

andpaidspecial attentionto

hichhadbeenalreadyta en.

withouttheirvalue asbearing

eciallyasshowingtheextra-

hmayyet bepreserved,

adeandenforced thecondi-

elives andmultiplies the



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NT R P S

mespecieswithextinction,as

tingthem.Someofmyfriends

tmyownmodestbag,as ifit

seviews butitisscarcely

nooneproposesto interfere

ndeed,itistheconservative

yfoundmostanxioustopre-

sinwhichhe delights.

romC apeGuardafuiintheworst

onsoonwastheprice whichwe

elow-lyingAfricancoast,with

ofpalms,andhugebaobab-

ysteriousdelightswhichlay

ppositethewarehousesof

ashedPortuguesefortandits

withinthe land,being

ryformedby somesmall

mV ascodaGamadownwards

harbour,but itwasleftfor

daK ailwaytodiscoverthat

hannelwasthebetterroad-

rderandtheneware visible

erswhichmonthbymonth

newrailwayarej ostledby

oesandA rabdhow s.

ndia,forthetownis

bay.Therehasalwaysbeen

rnandwesterncoasts ofthe

shasrece ivedanimmensestimulus

ndaRailwayisbeingconstructed



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R C A 3

dbya numberoftradersoftheir

slongconnects thetown

ayterminus,whichwasthen

teside oftheisland,andfor

titis verypleasantlocomotion

trollybya coupleofnimble

na-shambas,thepalm-groves,

es,andthroughstretchesof

" bishop birds, l i e litt leballs

wweaver-birds,playandflutter

enests.

oforwardthatwewere ableto

ra inthesamenight, and, some

ossedthebridgetothe main-

wweweretraversingtheTaru,

ub,whichhashithertoproved

verycaravanboundup-country.

eofthorncarriesscarcely anyfoliage

mostbareoflife. " Africa

iderapartthantheoldhymn

,andthe firstpermanent

o,crossedat the115thmile.

esnowsof K iliman aro,is

omegoodengineeringreason

notbeenalreadyutilisedfor

wnto thecoast,andeven

tseemstome, nowthatthe

ntheNile valleyisrelieved

suppressed,thatwor softhis

ediatevaluethanthe advance



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NT R P S

peed.Althoughour train

dwasthusindependent,wepassed

want ofwater.Theydepended

omawater-holefourmilesoff.

enginesinformedmethathe

undthecoolies,who shouldhave

ridle .

tthe 100thmile,weleftthe

new directtrac hasbeencut

boutsixtymilesto Taveta,close

manterritoryandnearthelowest

aro . I tw asaroundthebaseof

atI proposedtowanderfortwo

van,whichhad beensent

,assembled.Theyconsistedof

ofStanley sfaithfulfollowers,

porters,shepherdedbyseven

ithold-fashionedrifles.The

mainlythe resultofinnumer-

adersalongthe coastandinto

eatmentandfatfeeding,com-

heyhavedevelopedamuscular

shesthemfromthetribesmenof

maybeidenticalin bloodand

ight-heartedrace,andsing

long withtheregulationload

r ownbelongings.Theyare

childishimpulsestowhich they

aimlessdesertion.Thistendency

stomofprepaymentofwages,



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R C A 6

,andwhatcana casual

esertingporterneverstealshis

thej ungleanddecamps.

aravans,asthemobilityor

ydependon thatloadas

medicinesorcartridges.H ence

all therollfromthe register

gvueurtocarry.Thebwana,or

hismen,and thismeasureis

ashis.Threehaddisappeared

omefurtherdepletionofnumbers.

ongiftofblan etsandwater-

nof " posho" thericerationto

twasapiteoussight towatch

ingupthegrainsof ricedropped

hefirstsignamongmany

starvationyear dueto long-

wed,accompaniedbymuch

htest andnowweencountered

rsassembledhadto be

dingin thesamedirection.A

adebysomebody.O urcarriers

tforthenumberofloadswhich

gear, tradegoods, " chopboxes, as

nsarecalled,andrice foramonth.

boutthecampseemedtoo

yload,and weweredrivento

hind,hopingtorecruitsturdier

sandsendthembac forthe

did,butthey werelongin



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R C A

dfor acoupleofhours,our

rgedalonganativetrac . I can

enceof theoldpathbythe

Africannature.I tinvolved

anydifficulties infact,thatday

rrythemalmostasfar asthey

vehimin considerationofthe

h heledus.This wasona

er itsbedw asdry , butourfo llowers

pingholesin thesandybottom.

eban s,andlianasfestooned

hof greenery.Towal along

chsometimeswasameretunnel

inemergedintobrilliantsunshine,

ctiontothemost attractiveside

terfliescoursedupanddown

erw asq uic lyatw or w ithher

dofa smallantelopeinterested

thehour beforesunset,I

alongabranchchanneland

nimal,and,byafortunateshot

asmalldui ero fadar bay

horns.Strangetosay,noneof

ntry , tow homI subse uently

ne,and asamatteroffact

eHarvey sdui erhadonly

Thisis perhapsowingtoits

ntoits intrinsicrarity,butit

y collection.

x tday smarchastypica lo fmany

ght,wetoo ourcoffeewhile



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NT R P S

etents. A tasigna ltheporters

onceallo tted, eachmank now shis

aheadoftheline.W efollowed

chwas occupiedbyshambas,

wingI ndiancornorbananas.

stvaluablefood-plantinEast

inavarietyofways au

ed, reducedtof lour, andba ed,

into caps,bas ets,oracradle

ingrisingground,wegot into

hatwecould onlypushour

ingastrideofthehind-wheel,

nddoubletocleartheover-

rtheirvile hoo swithsoft-

mtobe endowedwithamischievous

hadnextto betraversed.

ght, closedbehindeachpasser-

outingk eptusfromwandering.

a in, w ew eresoa edtothes in.

periencessomemoreshambas

heredandroastedsomeheadsof

reshment,forthe boycarrying

ared.Atlengthwere-entered

ydeterminednottobe diverted

tmorning,weenteredon

terlesstractwhich extendsfor

vemilesto Taveta.Thetrac

suitedto wheeling,sothat

adofthe safari,andwesoon

rgergame.H erdsofthe



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R C A

ofthemorebeautifulGrant s

ntedeightofpeople onwheels,

urfront,thrownout oftheir

tedspeed.Aherd ofimpala,

ayco lour, w entof fw ithhuge

rownheightor more,intotheair,

usproceeding.Giraffe,ostrich,

y usatvarioustimeseither

ewardj ourneyacrossthedesert.

tthisisahunter sparadise ,

anobstacle.Nodoubtthatis

stillabounds,as nohunter

bourhoodunlessprovidedfor

.W e.k eptfarahead,and

g-placeneararoc yhill,in the

asmallnaturalcatch-water

ip-bath,holdingafewgallons.

nw iththef ivedon eysw ho

uipment butthebul o f theporters

rivedthatnight,whichwas a

ngveryhard.Thetruants

g,but wereunfittostart

ghterandI weresoonagain

fari.Low ridgescovered

ithwidegrassy valleys,

low,thefavouritefeeding-

w ere j ustenteringonthe

neof thesehollow s, w henI saw

alapproachingtheroad

which wereherefairly

thoughtitw asadon eybelong-



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N TR P S

mwehadpassed.Thenext

toodrightacross theroad,thirty

ingoutoverthe veldt,andwholly

ch.I shoutedtomydaughter,

nt,and ofcoursebetweenme

pedof fandgazedw iththeaw e

nota littletrepidation.But

Hisma esty turnedhishead

ndsprangintothe bushes.

gotintothepapers,with

nstance,thatwefrightenedthe

bells.O nepoetburstinto

meandmybell withO rpheus

pletwassomethingli ethis

darehisdulcet strains,

oneremains.

gerousinthedaytime,unless

nsuchacase, asw esubse uently

o facehisenemy.Thereal

approachbynight.Thehistory

wo man-eatinglionsatTsavo,

construction- campasto

nceoftherailway,wasof

referredtoby LordSalisbury

mustconfesstosomefee ling

he spotwherethelionhad

atthe sideofthepath,and

eedforthenexthalf-mile.The

whomI hadsentforwardalong

ofsevenlions" F ourmanandw ife



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i 1 H - NB .



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R C A 11

stheyexpressedit. I neverfound

issort, andthetrac satleast

oushereabouts.

einsight ofK iliman aro,

s rarelyvisibleexceptat

n.Themoistureprecipitated,

canicsoil,ma eitsslopeshighly

zoneisone ofthemostpopulous

rennialstreams,fedbythe

O neofthem,thelittle river

forestofTaveta.Theblac

hbegantoshowinfront,and at

ingexpanseofLa eJ ipe , w hich

aptainTempleMaxted,the

seregions,metuson theverge

dustohishouseontheban s

dayswehadbeen practically

astarvationallowance,andthe

me.O ntheoppositesidea

edtheopenplainandthegreat

nt-collectorinan outlying

ariedandpeculiar.Apart

nistrationofhis district,

ofcommander-in-chiefand

hiscasethe armyislimited

nd- f i le butif thesew erenot

ewouldsoonbe trouble,as

ot.O urrelationswiththe

unswithinamileor two,are

nalexchangeofvisitsis fre uent.



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N TR P S

Germandoctork indlyundertoo a

Moschitoprescribefor amission-

methroughourterritory,and

administratorispostmaster-

cal instructorinagriculture of

w snothingtothenativepopulation.

usticeof thepeace, onSundays

stofthelittlemission church.

,andgeneralmedicalpractitioner

il lsuphissparemoments. I am

elast-namedfunctionisthemost

asantto seetheout-patients

erritoryrangedupevery

. Thoughheprobablystarted

thmedicalk nowledge,hispractice

charenotq uiteaccidental,

foundimpressionon" his

hanceforayoungempire-ma er

3or 4aw ee Thereare

a inta iningtheK ing sf lag, and,

syoungmeninEast Africahave

inregainingtheconfidenceof

enturiesoftreacherouswrongon

s.I tisonly fairtosaythat

heGermansmayhavebeenin

timeofourvisitgovernedunder

hesamehumaneconsiderations.

esttheW atavetaowetheir

mtheraidsofthe Masai.Those

ata combinedrushintheopen,

adofthe poisonedarrowand



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R C A

thelittleclearances,banana

sinthemidst ofthej ungle

eir ownersmeetastrangerwith

thesesunnyopenings,tall

igandothergianttrees support

ndfrom theirbranchesrope-

undredfeettoearthandstri e

saresilentanddevoidof life.

grovesofex uisiteR af iapalms,

etin length,whosescarlet

htheluminousgreenof the

f bright-colouredbirdsand

Deepdow ninblac shadethe

edhere andtherebybigstems

thrownacrossforthepurpose.

n-stationatTaveta,which

churches.This isnotan

natives,butratheraconces-

attend church,butwillnot

readily fa ll inw iththeprecept

nSunday infact, theyw ouldgladly

rdays inthewee .Thewhole

n , embraceC hrist ianityonthe

buttheirspiritualpastorsare

ertain paganpracticeswhich

havesucceededininculcating

ons,as,forinstance,thevalue

gation-canalfourmileslong,

ed,isa monumenttotheir

hehospitableResidencywe



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N TR P S

s anddepartednorthwards,for

emountain.W ewereguided

req uiteunburdenedwith

xceptwater-gourds.I twasa

d gracewithwhichtheseslim

nd.Theyneverspo e,and,when

uttheroute, po intedoutthedirection

etheslopesofthe mountain

pointafewmiles fromTaveta,

ustratedbyanancientcrater,

seatedla e, ca lledLa eC hala,

mference.Thesurfaceofthe

tbelowthe rim,whichisvery

e andbeingthusprotected

dsurfacemirrors thetrees

arginand thegreatex-volcano,of

twasatone timethevent.A

ros-pathroundtheupperedge

animalsvainlysoughta way

ters.

whichgotoformthe Lumi,

mbo,flowingnorth,descendthe

plain.H avingtheiroriginin

yareperennial hencetheir

edbybeltsof superbtreesand

.Thedeeperpoolsarecrowded

encampwaspitched,mydaughter

, andourmenpresently

roughertac le,roarsoflaughter

ycompetition.Thecatchwas

mewor ofgreentwigs.A



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N TR P S

sisadeepguttural cough,

he roarofanangryor

wardshadreasonto k now.

reme,I willendeavourto

alswhichweencountered,

posedthatallwouldbeseen

,eachspecieshas itsfavourite

otmuchtrespasseduponby

bareofgameofanyk ind, andit

willtraverse,aswedid,much

mp inagoodgame-country.

pletehiscollectionofspecimens

oftenfruitlesssearch.

wal .Asweproceedparallel

ureswilldepartwithheavy

they roosted,andacompany

grandfathers,willbe seenmov-

watering-place.Asounderof

theirsnoutsthattheyallow

dthenscuttlenoisily,withtails

pig, I thin , f romthewart-

sturbed,as mySomalis

vesbytouchingtheunclean

shootathyenas,twoor three

erallyroundthecamp at

llof meat.H ereissomething

bodymovingrapidlyaway,

urhundredyards.Ali calls

meansostrich. Thisisthecoc

matemayperhapsbemadeout

endance.Theyk nowthevalue



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R C A 17

rethe mostwatchfulofall

sgivethemagreat advantage,

oo -outoverthebushesw hich

whenseentheyare generally

ut ofshot.Theyaregood

beginto strollandfeeduncon-

putaboutfivehundredyards

thehunter.Aftermanyfutile

ucceedinreachingonewith a

ay,deliveringconvulsive

avedemolishedanyman. B esides

eaw ay theshan -bonesandfeetas

usfollowerspurloinedthemin

mupforthemarrow .

rtwelveanimalsstanding

lyarev isible , andtheblac - t ipped

of in uiry,havetheappear-

ieswithextendedwings.These

singulargrace informand

c withthem,andtheyseemto

shoot. Whendisturbed, they ta e

ewith flyingleapsofastonishing

theyappeartodothesame insheer

rstsuccesswith theseanimals

adseenseveralherds,buteither

ththem, ortheyw eresoa lertthat

ebegantosee foragoodspot

ourselvesunderaspreadingthorn-

tw emademuchofour" tif f in-

o fma ingourse lvesascomfort-

mitted,andavoidingthemid-



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R C A 19

zeoverthe topsofthemimosa

.Mylicence permittedmeto

day I didthiswithtw osucces-

fromthespotwhere I stood.

les,so thatI hopedthebreed

ished butI mustconfessthat

onlyaftertheevent,anddoes

science.

wasover,M.would

undertheescortof oneof

ors insomebirdw hichI

dtosomeof thesic men, o f

everal,willingnay,anxious to

atment.I nspiteofour ignor-

hatw edidnothingtosha ethis

chcasesisto choosearemedy

ista able.Thusweapplied

allcases,becausetheirtrail is

he suffererisproudofhis

des,heisinno hurryforanother.

fromtheeffects ofover-eating,

he j igger,orboringflea.This

A tlanticf romtheWestI ndies,

erica,wor editswayacross

amto ld, begunto invadeI ndia.

ng-notes wehavehitherto

chhas itsownpeculiarfauna.

theopenpla inw eshouldf ind

chdonotsooften see covertthe

variety )w ithitshighw ithersand

sgazelle,thehandsomestofall



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A NTR P S

hin , outsideB rit ishandGerman

outhernAbyssinia.Themale

,andcarrieslyratehorns over

othergameinthisregion,

ild,beingmuchhuntedfrom

stricton themountain.

ngthemwasincreasedowing

hgrasshadgrownonthe

inthatI triedto f la ttenmyself

riA licoulddo, hebeingavery

etheexhortationsheaddressed

ypositionduringthisandmany

srenderedstil lmore ir somebya

ornyspi es,whichcoversthe

otherinstrumentoftorture is

oundsineverygame-district.These

sonat everyentry,andinflict

achaherdof " Grants. A t

eytantalisedusbymovinga

asthesunonmybac , and

hadexhaustedthelastves-

ggestbuc sbeganfighting,

seacloudof reddust.The

d beheard,buttheywere

eingmychance,I ranin.

off,andthereremainedonly

edgeofwhichthecontending

ared.I firedatoneofthese

y,astherangewasstilltoo great,

nonoticeof theshot. I ran



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R C A 21

et atshorterrangetold

sic nessofdeathupon

tly pursuedbyhisantagon-

athis easyvictory.Both

use,andthe pursuitwascon-

ateasyrangethewounded

shot,andthevictor,

naltyof hisownlifealso.

mpsoonbroughtoutascoreof

ourlatereverypot wassimmer-

meat,to themanunwonted

ctionswhichma eserv ice inan

opopular.

rnedk ind,areatpresent

aredwillnotlong remainso.

tain thic bush,lyinginthe

ismallpig- l i eears butthey feed

rsethenveryconspicuous.

blindnessandstupidity,theyare

eed,evenwhentheintruderis

her reluctanttogetoutof the

harge.Myfirstrhino,though

astern-chaseoffourhours

ncewecameupwith him

when hedashedoutun-

tsI sprangbehindatree,and

putting anendtothe hunt.

w as s e ve r el y t a e n t o ta s b y A li .

gain,itledus acrossariverand

sexceedinglydensecovert,

hlyexciting,as itwascertainthat



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TR PS

w eshouldcometoveryclose

olong,however,thatwe were

gitforthenight,and Alihad

hegroundtomar thepo intw e

undedanimalj umpedupwithin

w astooquic forhim, andsoon

s. I nthisa loe-scrubI found

hefreshtrac ofelephants.

roundforKir ' sgaze lle , the

s.Anotherrhinoceroswhich I

eAthiplains laysoundasleepin

d, w ithoutanyattemptatconcea l-

eyards.When I fired,he

htfor me,sothathismassive

svital parts,andI couldnotfire

tandingup,I waitedreadyto

verhisoriginalintentionsmayhave

andpassedthreeor fouryards

ysecondbulletinto himalmost

Eithershotwouldhavebeen

ngtwohundredyardshe

wn,anddiedwithoutfurthermove-

reaccidentshavehappenedin

sthanfrom lions.Thisis

eraretooblind andstupidto

manuntilheis veryclose,when

ntheopenitshouldnotbe

inbushitisotherwise.

a rhinocerosdoesnotdaunt

esthetas w ithacheerfulcon-

,and evenwhilecuttingupthe



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R C A 23

ringlumpsofrawmeatinto his

tisersforthefeastto come.The

amp,hesits downinabusiness-

ughit. Thehun sofmeatare

w hichisplantedamongtheembers

hile thismealisbeingcon-

g,andthisgoes on,withbrief

houttheday,andeventhenight.

yforstowingfoodisbalanced

aordinary,ofprolongedfasting.

w hen" posho" forsixdayshasbeen

stof themenhavefinished

e.Buttheycheerfully

andcarry theirloadswithout

ucometothin o f it , it isnot

weshouldbeable tolastfrom

rfoodsupply isconstant, theirs

ndant.Thustheyarebuilt

witha" largecoalcapacity.

dthecampfullo fmeat, I cut

mer byone-half.Butthiswas

sdrewupin alonglinein

gnalthat theyhavea

edthattheyweretoowea from

s, andthattheydidnotli e

rstand,fortheyhadhadsuch a

ty-fourhoursaswould suffice

seriousdifficulties.O wing

upplies,aretreattoourbase on

able.Moreover,anoutbrea of



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N TR P S

ourporters.TheSwahilisare

dbe, andeasilymightbe,

natthecoast.Thisis aserious

sultofit, combinedwiththe

estrictedimportationof small-

s thedangerofits spreading

nwasaseriousone. I nsucha

unableeither tomoveorsuccour

iousdilemmahow toreconcileour

enmenwiththesafetyof the

,thetwomenfirstattac edwere

sentthemunderescortto

solatedandprovidedfor,and

therrecovered.Subse uent

ey arose,withthebestmeans

thetrialsof acaravan-leader

rheadmanconcealedoneofthese

heman carryasmalltent.I

burn it,anincidentthemore

econtainedthefeathersofoneof

dshot.Thesehadalsoto be

iliman arodistrictwasa

en withinadayanda halfof

aggardcommissariatcolumn.

urrelief, theyhaddevotedtheir

ngasmuchas possibleofthe

henalmostwithintouchof

y bicycle,whichhadbeen

metime,gavewaywithabang

alitiesof theroad. B ut, asit



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1 . ' . .1 li C S .



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R C A

eenscarcely possibletouseit

nsfromtheironway.

nginstinctofmy menasserted

ectlywellthedaybefore

mpla ints. I lac edthes il lto

doffarounddozenof slee

Thefaithfulfiftywhoremained

rselves,intwodaysthe

ght tothe308thmile,

River.AtTavetawe had

ntheterritoriesof theW ateita

helinetraverses,evidencesof

ded.Thenativesseenfrom

terthanw al ings e letons,

nsweregroupsoffound-

tswhohad perished.The

fficershaddonetheirutmost

hosewithin reach butnoone

starvation,orthefelldisease

s,claimedmostvictims.

dmilestherailwayrunsthrough

ngalmostleafless,issingularly

llyopensouttopar - l i ecountry ,

e,theAthi plainsarereached

elevationoffivethousand

ethin patcheswhichmar

thiRiverandits affluent,

essofthe grassattracts

indeed,itis doubtfulif,for

blegame,it canbematched

ayonthat continent,or



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N TR P S

mthewindowsofthetrain

rtebeest,gazellesofthetwo

lyaftertheexplorersThomson

impala,steinbuc ,andwilde-

havedreamedof,butnever

eniaby thecrossingof the

amesuggestsaplaceof con-

of facttherew asnothingbutthe

emanyothers,ofalittle green

aw ater-tan . H ardbyC apta in

amped,andwethoughtourselves

a sportsmanandnaturalist.

ofa menagerie,andcontained,

erallions,a youngzebra,a

mson sgaze lle , tw ofalcons, aparrot,

s.H indewasappointedC om-

e,small campsofwhomwere

ma. H ehadsucceededinestablish-

withthis people,ashorttime

bein EastAfrica.Theywere

sandherds, w hichtheyw ere in

raiding theirneighbours.

edsomanycattlethat there

nasformerly,andtheMasai

but" w hentheDev ilw assic ,

be, andI thin thepropensity is

hewar-paththeytrustin hand-

enmassewithheavythrusting

etheWa ambaandWandorobbo,

odsandthepoisonedarrow,a



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fc J k



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R C A 87

on.O wingtothisdifferenceof

mba, andothertribeshabitually

h,whoarethe mostsuccessful

Masai,beingcattle-owners,do

eat.

nsufferedfromthe coldin

the Europeantheclimateof

gorating,andthereisa glorious

st expanseofsun-driedgrass

lifeisgivenbythe herdsof

etime ofourvisitat anyrate,

ar co lour, themostconspicuous

plainisthewildebeestor

blac un emptmanegivesita

nce, l i esomepatriarcha lB oerof

malsmasstogetherinvery

ingtowateror iffrightened,

bitsandappearancesomewhat

nof theAmericanprairies.I t

heywillnotsufferthe same

adlythinned.TheMasai are

isspeciestonurturetheir tame

harrying thewildebeesthad

ildnearLu enia butriding

a inH indetothesouthward, I f ound

omparativelyeasytoapproach.

bullsw itharightandlef tshot, onefor

fit,andone formyownmen.

, w hichcarriedavery f inehead, I to ld

a lldlit, asitshow edsignsof life .



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TR PS

w nandw al edontoexaminethe

dsfartheron.I nthemeanwhile

ecamesoviolentthatAlicould

tlastitstaggeredto itsfeetand

sitationchargedf irstoneshi ari

llyitgallopedoffafterthe rest

din thedistance.H indesent

trail.Theyreturnedsome

theanimalbut failedtocome

threew ee slater, whenI

hood,thatthehornswere

sthavingbeenpulleddownand

ofmyportersI hadtow ait

tuptoMacha ostoengagesome

eaveryhandy loto f recruits

reW anyamwezi,whosetribal

f theGreatLa e. I w asto ld

ves" foreating inthe irown

llers tale,orrathera taletold

emthemostcontentedand

ncountered.

uppliedwithhumantransport,

tsmobility,andwe marched

heA thi, theothersidebeing

eshallow poo lso f theriverw ere

andotherwaders,whileon

erandlesser bustardsand

-bird,whosegaitresemblesthat

ts. Theyhadallbeentoo

roachwithagun,butspecimens



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R C A 29

ampleoccupationwhilewe

erew ereplentyofThomson s

ofallthelesser Africangazelles,

mmy . I t isdecoratedw ithabroad

ngetosay, thisconspicuousmar

adistance.Thezebra,another

sprotectivecolouring,almost

atfivehundredyardswitha

emalesandyoungmalesofGrant s

rpeasthe" Tommies, butit

s,perhapsbecausewhenthey

phornsthey nolongerre uire

Tommies ma ethepla inlive ly

e anotherforlongdistances

eed.

ydescribed,thewater-buc

thinamileofthe river.O wing

d largesize,itis easilyfound.

r,theareafre uentedbythem

n thatthisanimalisingreat

estspecimenI broughthome

ormebya lion.I tmusthave

oew epitchedcamp, andw ithina

menfetchingwatermust

beforehecould beginhismeal.

eryeasilyshotout. They

ich,thoughsometimestwoor

tenarrow.Theymustcomeupto

pefromtheunscrupuloussports-

niaandforsomewaydownhave

em,andit wasnottillwe got



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N TR P S

i, thirtymilesfarthernorth,

ls.Thereis apoolthereof

eremainson theban sshowed

by theWa amba. The irmethod

n thepool,constructedofthe

nthistheycrouch, waiting

geapoisonedarrow,whichdoes

f thes inispenetrated. Where

hipposinthecourseofageshave

es,q uitetenfeetbelowthegeneral

rpassagetoandfromthe land.

malishada narrowescape

hadsenthimacross theriver

accompaniedbyanas ari, to loo

Accordingto theiraccount,they

a- i uyu, andonearrow

sbreeches,fortunatelywithout

eWa- i uyuhavegenerallyproved

totravellers.Thereasonofthis

vators,theyhaveconstantly

sing caravans.

ttracts largenumbersof

tmoreof theseanimalshavebeen

rossingthanatanyothersinglespot

eceivedaletterfroma friendwho

tsteps,andwhodescribesseeing

her,closetotheplacewherethe

uc w ask il led, sotospea , atour

-overs, it isamattero f luc to

time,andmanymenwhohave

avefailedtodoso.



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R C A

sstandingontheban

ttention.We k newthat

ntocarrion,and thatsome-

fromit.Searchinginthe bushes

oundthebody ofazebra

Thehandiw or o fa lionis

esamemovementthatheseizes

ec . Thechestisthentornopen

terw hichhebeginstoeatthe

scasetherew eresignsthatthe lion

ewas probablyonthecarcase

withdrewintothereedswhich

dtostone himout,buthe

eusand ourSomalihunters

manylionsabout,butit wasin

wuptrac s,thegroundalways

w iththehelpofGod, asA lisa id,

ercomethem.

hadlef tLu eniaonourw ay

hingatthe headofourcolumn,

ystroll inga longinI ndianf ile , on

usandyardsoft .Nowand

nedtheirheads toloo atmy

ginsightfor aq uarterofan

ithoutq uic eningtheirpace,over

ftheAthi,wherewefelt sure

eatofthe day.C ampwasat

edto loo forthem.M.begged

andasthe lionshadseenus, I

ldletuscometocloseq uarters.

isebutit isva intoreca llw hatI



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N TR P S

acase.I stipulated,however,that

way intherearw ithoneof the

rticularlyreliableman,by herside.

arisw ithme. Wegotdow nto

al ingalongit.Therewere

orderedwithrushes,and the

abouttw ofeethigh, w hilehere

small thorn-bushes.Thusthe

goodenoughtohideahare. We

throwinglumpsofdrymud

s.Mydaughterwassupposed

behind,butthis limitshein-

wnfavour,and wasnotmore

henthe crisiscame buttotell

ghto f l ionsgettingbac through

hesheltero f thehighban s

wethought agoodthing,as

e ly to lieclose . A rustling

ractedmyattention,andthen

nofalionrushing forward

nstant laterapatchof yellow

bushesinfrontofme,at which

dfortunatelymissed.Thiswas

ngwitha lionitis wellto

m,andtobeq uitesurewhat

enextminutea lionanda

covertandwereseentoppingthe

ndwereinstantlylost toview.

, andsaw themtrottingof facross

yyardsoff.Now,a heavyten-

eweapononewouldchooseto



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R C A 33

with,ata runninganimalatthat

yshothad noothereffectthanto

utw hile I w asgazingdisconso late ly

shappeningbehindme.Alion

ding-timemanner,andmy

methingwhichI couldnothear.

edw asthis. While I w asoutof

ban , athirdlionhadsnea ed

dhimselffacetoface withmy

hherimmediatelyshotathim.

a llyhitany thing, buttheshothad

ac towardsme.Doubtlesshe

atightplace,withguns in

ron oneside,forhebegan

posingmanner.Mydaughter

e iscomingforyou, and

totheedgeof theban he

camestraightfor meinto

n, fairly faced, se ldomcharges

ntent.Atanyratethis

rdsoff,anda ten-borebullet

er.H eretreatednoisily

ngsighto fhimagain, I gave

deadlyeffect,forI saw

ycapin triumph,andmy

sasasigna l, cameuptome,

I tw asnot, how ever. While

oaringbeganagain.I forgot

ntobeaccountedfor,and

hadseenfallwasonlypartially

nghimself.Nowwestoodin a



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TR PS

momentmydaughtersaid,

Alia lsosa id, " Y ounosee. Oh

dcaseofslow -sightedness, adefect

goodchance.I couldonly

ha successionofearth-sha ing

ecovertwasso thinthatitdid

nmalcouldconcea lhimselfA t

psdow ntheban toga inabetter

boundedoutfromthe

ndstoppedafewyards

oes.Stillconvinceditwas

beingsoclose,I aimedathis

himhalfaninchbelow

tintohischest. I t j ustmissed

dhimoverbac w ards. Though

twoorthreemoreshots

he ceasedalldemonstra-

nthatI rea lisedthatthis

nwoundedlion,andthat my

behindit.

uethe pointwhetherlion-

foryoungladiestoengage

btthat, butforM. spresence in

onswouldhaveescapedun-

ehadcome.Theywerefully

andin primecondition.

eaturewhichisgenerallynot

tAfrican lion.We stayed

dry thes ins, asmySomalis

out creditably andthen

northwards.



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R C A

nturethewholeoutline

ev isible forthef irstt ime thus

bitionwasrealised.This was

henthisq ueenofAfrican

arms,andI wonderedwhether

thenapproachingit,would

tcoldblan etwhichgenerally

rries.Swahiliportersbredon

weatherat highelevations,

edthenumbingeffectuponthem

vel.

eniaandformanymiles

poolswithoutanyapparent

nmilesbelowthatitbegan toflow,

etillitbecamea considerable

tthat noaffluentreachesit

ughI cannotbee ua lly certa in

aminclinedtothin thefacts

oundreservoirswhichmay

benefitof futuresettlers.

theAthi thepoolsassumethe

esandaremarginedwithbeautiful

eroswerenumerousinthese

yof fourononeoccasion. I

musedmyselfbystal ingthem

rticularwasvery suspicious,

ar enough,butatlengthhe

llmoundscommonhereabouts.

edsuddenlyontothetoptoma e

whichhedidto admiration.

edli echarging, butwhenhe



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R C A

mlesswandering,I whistled.

y I ra isedmyvoicetoashout.

a lly , w ithgreatre luctance, I f ired

preferabletohavinga

onthetrac .Therewas

w aitno longer. Ta ingupthe

ac ingbroughtusw ithinsight

fseven,withoneverygood

j udgedf romtheblue-grey

Theywerefeedingq uietly

ndredyardsoff.This istoogreat

aheavyborerif le , andI began

thirtyorforty yards,andwas

shouldta etheshot, whenI

ingup behind,andwhistling

,standingboltuprightwith

thasw if tmotionI w aved

d, hopingagainsthope,

rise . J ustasI reachedit

entup,andtheydisappeared

ound, I f oundmyangelicboy

eelsw hile I laboriouslycraw led.

otata ll. Thisisa fa irsample

Swahili.This boymusthave

adozentimes andprofitedbyit.

vetheelands,hewasunableto

traintoproceedto rail-head

hewindowsofa wonderfultre

ssedeverythingwehadpre-

vincedthattheherdmusthave



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N TR P S

ousandofthese animals.They

a longlinewithsomeset

beentoomuchpersecutedelse-

terwaterorpasture.They

by thetrain,buthelda

uswepassedthewholecolumnin

moment.I tstretchedasfar

rections,thecountrybeing

vebeenq uite fourmileslong.

ecoursetheywouldpresently

wnofcorrugatedironand

ustsprungupinthemidsto f

ound.ThisisNairobi,destined

dw or shopof thera ilw ay .

onthsoldat thetimeofour

yaconsiderablepopulation.

mea dozenmilesbeyondNairobi,

evatedregionofgreenmeadow

esemeadowswereimmense

rnflower,fromwhichpro ected

ntscarlettritomas, the" red-hot

nsaf inecontrastw iththegrass.

swereengagedinspoiling Nature

urfarthestpo intw astheKi uyu

descendingtotheRift V alley.

thenintendedto beloweredtothe

eincline,butthe permanent

valleyhasnowbeencompleted.

nwegazedoverUgandaterritory,

rit bytheq uarantineagainst

ndus.Thusweturned coast-



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.

L Nt ,



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R C A

urseembar edatMombasa j ust

here.

lyas edwhetherourAfrican

tified, orw ill j ustify , the ircost.

tafinalanswer,butthere are

ichcannotbeignored,and from

lvisitor candrawlogicalin-

ectshisownobservationsbya

nformation.

EastAfricahas beenin

previouslytheC harteredC om-

ralyears.Nowthattherail-

heyshould beconsideredasone.

tedaProtectoratefora longer

artial civilisationhavethere-

tendedtoacountryaswideas

mbined,anditis nottoosoon

ainfromaneconomical,humani-

tofview.To whatextent,

efitedasthephilanthropists

ealthbeendiscoveredas the

mpirebeenstrengthenedas

answerthelastq uestionfirst:

fview,no onecandoubtthat

urholdon theNilevalleyand

sitioninthe territoriesad oin-

stpeoplewillthin thatthefive

hascost wasaninsurance

ordto pay,anditis well

selveswiththis,for inthat

ppointed.



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N TR P S

ttoestimatethega inorloss

theindigenouspopulation.

ctstandsoutthatthe railwayhas

othe ini uit iesof theslave- trade

sabig itemtothecreditside.

nhasnot beenanunmixed

nourE uatoria lprovinces

the j iggerwerenotun now n

ndthereforecannotbesaid

e buteverynew facil ity

theris ofthesevisitations.

herona balanceofadvantages

r forthepresenceintheir

lectorsand s uadsof

gcentralisedcontrol,than

villagegovernment.O fcourse

s,butanenforcedpeace isa

variedbyoccasionalpunitive

areopposedto arrowsandthe

onfoundedwiththeguilty.W e

thatthepure-bredMasai,the

ntofEastAfrican races,are

sbecomingenervatedbyin-

dorfor evilinterferedwith

bycenturiesofintertribalwar.

an eringforsomecornerof thew orld

xistencemaygoonwithoutlet

government.W eareestab-

lk indsofwildbeastsare to

nw enotex tendsucha

manspecies,to thisextent



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R C A

mselves,andthestrongest

moreinterestingthanthefour-

htheirideasoflife areinscrut-

all,insomerespects,beable

seremar shaveofcourse

sionaries,whowereestablished

thepresentregime,andare

stem.

mparedtherailw ay toabac -

pertinently , " W hatisabac bone

tusexaminehow farsinew sand

ow uproundthebac bone. In ap-

ospectsoftherailwayone must

oductsthatare worthconsider-

ldpaytoconveytothe coast.

dtothoseproductswhichhave

totheir bul .Grain,forin-

reeorfourhundredmiles of

uldprobablybeundersoldby

vory,coffee,andrubberarethe

nerallyreferredtoasfulfilling

y islitt leenough, andthequantity

hasthe oldnativehoardsof

d.Theexportof itin1900-

amountedtotwo-thirdsof the

Thereare practicallyno

erepeatedtheexperimentof

dsandattemptedtogrow cof feeasa

butscientificexperiments,appar-

nmadebythehead ofthe

heneighbourhoodofK ampala,



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TR PS

ningofanimportantindustry.

yintheforests,butare liableto

lessdestructionof theplants. I ts

nativelabour,andthe nativeis

C ongoStatetheBelgianshaveno

ymethodswhichwouldnotbe

y.H ereagaintheq uantityex-

rious decrease.ButI havesaid

ture isobscurenot necessarily

dw ithenergymayma ethe

ftherailwaylastyear were,

000,andthiswasrathermorethan

earnings butofthe10,000tons

asfortheupwardtraffic.Now,

afficthatourhopesforthe

mafraidthatthediscrepancycan

tle armyof20,000coolies

on,towhoseneedsthis large

nditisobviousthatthis demand

yis finished.

ase,andtheupwardtraffic

ybalancesthedownwardor

tonemust expectasnotunli ely

anadiminutionto lessthan

nalearnings,unlesstheoutput

meextraordinarystimulus,or

isesamongthenativeraces.At

nstopurchaseanything,and

labour,andthattheyareun-

money.Norarethereat



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R C A 43

sw hocanbeloo edtoasthe

cepta fewdistributingagencies

sionaries.

edtheV ictoriaLa e,and

apsanenormousterritorywhich

es.Butevenhereitwouldbe

phecies.Thesecountriesare

ntelligenttravellersofseveral

edtheminmanydirections,but

doradohasso farbeenlocated.

oroughscientific exploration

aturalfields,butuntilthathas

tocounton" cargoesofspice

maybealteredinafew months,

ntto this thatwemust

nthef ivemill ionssun inthe

ntingentmilitaryadvantages

nperiodthewor ingexpenses

earnings,butmustremaina

yer.



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E

eq uartettew hichformedmy

ascompleted.Ernestand

mV ienna. " TheB oy , w how as

ver beforecrossedtheC hannel,

e itsshareofbadluc , andit is

itoverearly.ThusmyAustrian

periencetofind thelinebloc ed

fNaples,andwerecompelledto

e, wherethey lostaparto f the ir

formedpilgrim spenance,for

betweenDoverandC alais.

rswereloweredinaboat, wemen,

beddownoverthe side,clinging

e-ladder,andwal edtwomiles

alais.The400mail-bags(it

subse uently thrownoverinto

eevidenceof thesametreatment

ftertheseabnormalexperiences

fromallfurtherdisaster,and



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TR PS

ndnessofthefateswasnot

mewindandtide favouredus,

hichwehad calculatedfitted

whichhadmarchedfromthe

le , metusatatry stun-

60milessouthofKhartoum. But

stsoverallwhohave

held meforfortyyears and

crethan eringoflongstanding,

thepublicationofB a er sboo sin

soughttocarrymyk nowledge

hartoumandbeyond,asfaras

a,andtheSirdarin hiswisdom,

eI hadbeeninAssouanwas

eingamongotherNubian

lion,tiedbyarope toa

dinghimself. Sincethatdate

w herehecamef rom. Now I w as

of hisrelations.Thespot

adbeen dischargedisnow

,butthis C apuadidnotdetain

ailsofthe dam,destinedsoonto

ceryofPhilae noragainthe

el,whohavegreeted the

cecounted,andeven now

ur effortstoharnessthe

feet northefriendlyamenities

weagainenteredthedust-laden

utof thebigNilebend, norlef t

tH alfeyeh,ontherightban



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E47

ppositesidetheUnionJ ac

vef loatingoverthes uaref ront

feredafriendlygreeting,which

nearitGordonC ollege, thenrising

ftheoldregimeand thenew.

gbehindazarebaof boxes,we

antsandtwoSomalishi arisA li

heformerofwhomhadaccom-

Theyshouldhavebeenherea

erof preparationsbeforeourarrival,

dunderthechargeofoneHassan,

ameof dragoman,butwas

Now,thiswasserious,becausethe

ypostponeduntilthefollowing

ardsofthemonthlygunboat

thesouthernposts,couldnotbe

r.The searchforwater-s ins

wellasthe formalitiesconnected

reofanuggar,the purchaseof

eluccaor rowing-boat,andthe

oOmdurman, w or w hichmight

s,hadtobe compressedinto

sulhasrecentlytoldhis

sofstrangers,whetherforsport

ayswelcometotheofficers who

y.I fthesewerethesentiments

mdurman,theyartfullyconcealed

dialco-operationweshould

visionoflabouramong

herest.



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N TR P S

toftheGovernmentofficeswere

visitandall themerchanta

swithitsmud-walls,sand-swept

othatthe variouspointstobe

esedistancesI endeavoured

butbe ingtop-heavyatthebesto f

on anungirthednativesaddle

strongpoint.Thusmyobserva-

ofthesights ofO mdurmanby

the peoplethemselves,andthe

misthemar etthegossiping-

sassemblyoftribesmen.The

danwasin fullswing andto

andsoft laughterwhichaccom-

thatthesegood-naturedblac s

ndrapine. Herew ereDin as

,broad-shoulderedShillu s,and

mbeyondtheSwamps,whilethe

awhohasenslavedthemallin

mwithcontemptuousmien.

wastogatherall the

udanunderhis owneye

ener soccupationthecity

uarterofamillioninhabitants,

ionshadbeendepopulated,and

fabulouspricethatthesystem

dow nby itsow nw eight. F rom

heyhadbeencollectedatthe

eyexhibitanextraordinary

infulA rabof thecon ueringrace

dwiththeseothersthehappy-



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E

danese.H owevermuchthey

,theArab typek eepsitselfdis-

erfulprogenitors,andshows

uras bylineaments.BothArabs

f ighters, andmanyof theKhalif a s

viceunderourf lag. Whetherany

atred itisimpossibleto say

orgetshisprideofrace, thefull-

faithfullywhatevermasterspay

tosay,hewilldo soaslong

everycombustiblematerialof

Buttheexplosiveis theretoo

andit isdifficulttounderstand

endedby ustobeused.

ngtotheDin atribewere

and gun-bearers,andwehoped

fulasinterpreterswhenwe got

men.Thesemen,li emostof

ysi uebutphenomenallylazy

seems mostcharacteristicof

heDin as, ownandherdcattle ,

ygreatextent.

eSirdarexercisesabenevo-

uthisleavewecould notta e

ess sgunboatZ af ir, orindeedtrave l

. Hispermittousextendedto

hiteNileasfarasF ashoda

extendingourexplorations

of courseweregardedasa

adsomegoodreasonforlaying

nthesud-country,but itisto



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leroutewhichhasnowbeen

esaboveK hartoumwill

vellers,whethertheywearthe

y in uiriesastotheanimals

ur sportinginstinctswerestirred

slationofan officialreportj ust

ntfromanativeEgyptianofficer

eWest: " 1amobligedtow rite

aredev ilsandw ouldnotk eepmy

pardonformybadpenmanship.

ycometomycountry it is

t s f ac e i s li e a t i ge r , an d i t is a s b ig

consistso fe ightrow s. I thas

cattle,andeatsmen also.The

withouteffect.I thereforebeg

,byyourwisdom,sendussome

nimal. Thoughweneverdis-

ourselves, it isclearlyworththewhile

smantosecuresuch atrophy.

hiteNilesouthofGoz

fcamels, butC o lonelJ ac sonhad

arrangew ithanA rabshei hto

als,withtheir necessarycamel

ntheBlueNile, wherelarge

Arab tribes,toK awaonthe

rabouttwo hundredmilesalong

tnearJ ebe lA chmetA gha, w here

. O urchie fanx ietynow w as

menwouldhavesufficientfaith

manwhomtheyhadneverseen



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chof threehundredmiles,two-

hroughacountrytotallyun-

eepatrystthedateofw hichcould

nedbeforehand.

theday fo llowingourarriva l

parationsandgottogetherthe

re uipment therestw ehad

cloc w ew entaboard. The

inadespairingsearchformy

ctofaimlesswanderingma es

oshepherd.I lostmyselfin

rderedby highmud-walls,

encounteredthemasthey

-shop,wheretheyhadbeen

seof time.Theyloo ed

ngwhiterobes whichSomalis

metersomewhereupinthree

melting mood,butnottowards

raliw il lrememberthechildli e

thatlittle manassumesonsuch

r, w astriple -dec ed, thebattery,

andtwoNordenfelts,being

utdec , w hiletheupperdec w as

ssengers,andon thelowesttier,

rewlayamongthe luggagewhich

ot all.W ecarriedwithus

das afloatingvillage.Lashed

erous" sandal orironbarge

ertierswerec rowdedwithan

milies,togetherwith as uad



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riedashewersofwoodwherewith

erdec wasoccupiedbya

els,horses,anddon eys,aswell

Asif thiswasnotloadenough

ne,three" nuggars ornative

gandbroad inproportion,

e.Theonehiredby uscarried,

nts,luggage,andten sheep,and

w ho" didfor the lot. This

denoughindustrytocompensate

ofher malerelationswhosailed

rshek neltontheprow engaged

abourofgrindingdourabetweentw o

sallthe time,whileherlighter

coo inginalittle dog-holeofa

erthe plan s,whencemysterious

uedtobeemittedli ethosemade

box . A sourcoo hadcomeon

greatmindtosecurethew ill ingo ld

enmorecrowded.I

one ofthem.Thewonder

r. Oneinfactdidso , and

ope.These peoplewerebeing

ofchargebytheGovernment,

ofdecentralisation.Thisis

racts maybecultivatedand

ethedemand,butbecausean

iblyturbulentpopulation,

the seatofgovernment.

erofbabies,the residenceofthese



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E63

asnotbarrenofresults,and it

tits soinswhichgreathul ing

tof theirblac mites.These

hehomelyvirtues.I tisstrange

s shouldhaveemergedfrom

lifa scity .

beforew edrew aw ay f romtheban ,

artherupfor belatedpassengers

asafterfourbeforewe passed

sand ourstern-wheelerbeganto

d,which averagesaboutfour

urrent. Andnowatonce

hevoyagetheteemingbird-

dngbac o f thew aterof the

dousfloodsofthe BlueNile,

nof low-water,widestretches

oreandlow-lyingban s.These

g-groundsof vastfloc sof

s. TheriveroppositeOmdurman

fgullsand terns,unexpected

dmiles fromthesea,butwhether

bredinthemarshesI donotk now .

thenight wehadonlymade

tspacew ehadseenhugef loc s

demoisellecranes, coal-blac ibisand

lls,blac -headedgulls,pelicans,

wingedgeese,teal,andruddy

of thelast-namedsittingatthe

brilliantpieceofcolourin the

stor sandibishavethehabit

thesun andw henarow of



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ttitude,theyhavethe appear-

theirs irtsw ithbothhands.

thesebirdsshiftedtheirground

gwithagreatclatter.The

thel istofbirdsobserved

awhitebodywithblac head

doubtthestri ingappearanceof

e ancientEgyptians,who

ummiedthematdeath.I

rararevisitorinLow erEgypt.

restedcrane,waspresent,but

outmylong-rangecamera,from

gs,buta steadyfoundationis

t,andI soonfoundthatthe

dea well-definedpictureim-

givenwerereallyta enata

gpicturesofbird-life,the

spanoramaoflivelyscenes.The

ezireh,orisland,as thatportion

edbetweenthetwoNiles,seems

rhoodofthe riverinthedry-

dsofcattleor goatsaccompany

gisthat thesefloc sshould

edepredationsof theK halifa,

ehiddenfromthegreedyeyesof

eranges,or itmaybethathe

pthisrichdistrict asafavoured

mdurman. A llday theban s

edamovingscene ofmen,

hiscontinuesforabouta hundred



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artoum.Beyondthatthepopula-

ddenbytallriverinevegetation.

ngagedin sowingtheislands

pearingabovetheretreatingwaters.

xw ee slaterthemudhaddis-

crop.Somevillagesofstraw

theban .Theremusthave

bac , to j udgef romthenumber

ed,besidesourselves,oftwo

woAmericanmissionarieson

shstationamongtheShil lu s, and

oceedingto theremoteststation

dwho,beingthe onlycom-

,wastechnicallyincommandof

himhissolitarybanishment,

intstoma eofhisprospects.

mandsinremotedistricts,away

nionship,mustbeasevere

doubtfuleconomy.

hesegunboatsbythe

nt,buttheyareexpectedto

selves.We messedtogether,the

inturnsto feedasmanyasthe

ereweretwoor threesmall

theyweretooa irlesstosleepin,

edwedividedup thenarrow

iveangereeps.Thesenativebed-

tedstripsofs inonaw ooden

dcomfortablelyingwhenwell

oadonacamel. Thenex tday



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E67

circumventthemistopost

ndthem,andsendbeatersround,

adshots.Theirnumbersare

partsofthej unglehavethe

poultry-yard.Theymustcome

waterandfeedonthemarsh.

osay thattheyareneverout

erun. O noneoccasionI saw

somew hichtheyhadcutof f ina

edafutileproceeding.A more

edbythemisalongc ordlaid

withanooseateveryrun used

eyaredriven. I t iscerta in

constantlysawthemintheir

nthesecondday , loo ingli e

dsmallfamiliesofhippopotamus

assedthe fordatAbuZ eid.

readofthesteamers,andonly

ment sbreathing-space. I f ancy

at fromthepassingboats,

minallyforbidden.I tisdan-

besidesbeing cruelandwasteful,

unlessit shouldenterthebrain,

a lsin sanddoesnotriseaga in

edon itsway.I wouldplead

etheactualcourseof theriver

wingnoshot tobefiredfrom

dalsosave thebird-lifewhich

rmtothisvoyage. I remember

1862,whichthenabounded



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hatandsuccessiveyearsagreat

withall theparaphernaliaof

isbagsofgeeseand otherfowl

ccessionwerenumberedin

dcoveredwithglory.H ehad

amforeverand adayfrom

pity ssa e letusavertthisvulgar

gionswhilethere istime.There

ntondestructionshouldtread

vernment.

dredmilesaboveK hartoum,

dottedoverwithlargemassesof

esor papyrus,whichhad

ndstrandedwiththe falling

win theirnewpositions.Pre-

ebeencarrieddownfromthe

sweadvancedtheybecame

t,untilatlengththey weremerged

getation,whichthenceforthlined

dthroughwhichitwasdifficult to

esusedbythenatives.I tformed

hgreweverwideraswe proceeded.

eregionof thegreata uatic

ngswimmersli ethepelicansor

theherons,night-herons,andfish-

f thebigf loc sofw aders, w hich,

orcethe shallowlagoonsand

rsh.Nativesthemselveswere

m,anditwasonlyonceor twice

gnarrowcanoesbeing poled

eedsbyana edf isherman.



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ing-boatsandalmosttotalabsence

ttheW hiteNileismostob-

tothe factthattheK halifa

casionallywesawcanoesformed

dwiththe endsbrought

w,somethingli ethoseone

ptiantombs.Theambatchis

chgrowsin marshyplacesnear

oof ra iltocarry loads. In

rywebeganto seelargergame.

numerous,andfromthegun-

eviewedtheshadowyoutlinesof

hadeofmimosa-thorns.

wn-comingbabur,asevery

dbyEuropeansandnatives

ntotheban sothattheouter

andalscameinto contact.Then

s thedenizensofthelowerdec

dattheirf riends, w hilethe" q ua lity

news,andthetwo" reises,

ersw hichcoveredtheupperdec ,

ditionofthe shallowsandother

nwasmostnecessarytous,as

navigationhenceforthbecame

zigzagprogresswasaccom-

dingsoundsunderthek eel.

ng-partyfoundtheirnuggar,

rd,andleft us.Thedisem-

oc , andespecia lly thecompulsory

ordedtothe wholecompanyhalf

. Threew ee slaterw eheard, toour



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panionsofa wee hadhad

gto oneofthembeing

mentionthe incidentasaw arn-

enemygenerallyapproaches

r mil servedintaintedvessels.

oSelimArabs,fatherandson,

medTalib,becamemyconstant

d.H ehadthelocal k nowledge

islac ed. F romthemw eheard,

r.camelshadpassedontheir

previously,andwerewaiting

whichtheycalledTereba,fifteen

metAgha.Thelatterwasthe

retoldthat therewasnoprac-

e.I mayhereobservethata

ywhereinthe dryseason,

versethemarsh,andwhich

verformanymiles,hinder

mals anditis thereforeonly

seasy

Two African trips with notes and suggestions on big game preservation

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Transcript of Two African trips with notes and suggestions on big game preservation