Touches that Tell in the American GirVsSmart Dressing.
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Some Touches that Tell in the American GirVs Smart Dressing. This Season's Gowns Alore Distinctive Than Ever. ARE STRIKINGLY ORIGINAL The Way the Trimming is Manip ulated the Color Combinations and Little Smart Touches Give the Cachet to the Entire Costume. Always, always something new Is the cry of the American girl. To Introduce In her dress some little, new. different ioilc.b is l-.ci particular delight, and It would seem tliial this year, more than ever before, she wns succeeding; for never lin.re her gown.» for every time of ti.iy been so strikingly -disllncti'i-e and original. To be sure. hey nil show more jr less the sumo outline.t he skirt with Its clinging effect Over the hips nnd Its gên¬ erons fulness toward tli<* hem. the broad shoulder with Invariably ils cape effect, nnd the sleeves wit 11 their flowing fullness below he elbow. But It Is the way the trimming is manipulated, the color combinations that are Introduced, and the little smart touches which really give the cachet to the entire costume. WHITE MOHAIR SICtlilESNNK, This Is conspicuously shown In one of the new mohair gowns, which has Just been made to order for n New York girl off for a summer at tho sea. The dress Is of white mohair sicilienne, with n hip yoke and the material then falling In mnny plaits to tho feet, where It Is bound with white veJareteen. The waist Is a prettily shaped blouse not full enough to disguise the new French curvo figuro. But It Is the collar and the trimming down the front of the waist that grives the smart touch which makes the gown distinctive, The collar Is flat and out so that tho throat shows a trifle In front. It Is made of brilliant scarlet velvet and trimmed with rows of gold braid and It fastens to the wnlst with two Mr pearl buttons. Beneath this collar Is nn unusually broad shoulder capé of the mohair, which falls well oi'r.tl the sleeves and Is trimmed with diamond- shaped Insets of the vivid scarlet velvet, framed In gold hrnld. The blouse Is tuck¬ ed at the sides, and down the front there are many dangling cords In white silk and red silk. They are arranged to g1ve a shower effect, Which is sbmethlng ex¬ tremely new and original. The white sleeve has a dash of bright color glu-en It by a deep cuff of the scarlet velvet crossed with many rows of gold.**rnld. It Is Jiut this Introduction of bright velvet with the glint of gold that takes away and conventional look from this white mohair gown. TAFFETA SILK COATSJ It is the same way with a taffeta silk coat. There are so many silk coats this year that to fVnd anything original is a difficult matter. But here Is a coat Just discovered by the clever woman who Is always on the nlcrt for something out of the ordinary. It Is a quaint coat, In a senFO of the picture, variety, and yet It is the smartest style possible. It Is made of blue taffeta and Is three-ounrter length. The upper part of the coat falls In a plaited blouse, the silk belnR shirred "o form a Viand trimming, which outlines .:be deep yoke with Its long, long sluuuldor ind continues down the front to the .»ointed girdle belt. . The lower part of the coat displays a .arefully fitted skirt cut away In front i trifle and laid In three flatly stltclwTl (.laits. The sleeve Is full and finished with wide buttoned-over strap cuff. A be- a'oming touch of white Is Introduced at the neck by having the yoke which shows DESCRIPTIONS OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS. I. A welcome relief from the low, flat shapes so long in vogue Is nffoided by the new Louis Quinze hnt, with Its high crown, brond loaf and nrtlstlc buckle holding the group of three ostrich plumes. Tho model In tho picture Is Imported this week by Francis. Fifth Avenue, who says that the under- brltn trimming may bo arranged In almost ««ny way to suit the wearer, or may even be omitted altogether. II. Every womnn wants to have her frocks set with the fascinating French curve nt the waist. Many costume"« ore mnde to wear with tlio Rosalind adjuster to attain this effect. In this illustration the gown of white Sicilienne shows a corsnge with bolero nnd blouse effect, »ind the deep pointed belt outlines the French cur.vc sharply, while showing the enameled shield of the Rosalind. The. long skirt hns a tucked flounce and a velvet binding at the foot. III. This suit of white mohair and Mexican banding, while of the shirt¬ waist order, offers "tho something different" that every woman seeks. The Mexlcnn bnndlng form«? a tablier down the front, outlines the deep flounce and makes sleeve decoration, collar and cuff for tho shirt-waist. The skirt being cut en trainc, has a velveteen binding and protects the hem. the decided sloping shoulder of real Irish laca. With this smart-looking coat Is worn a skirt of heavy blue French canvaá, oxactly matching It In color. The lower part of the skirt Is trimmed with bias fold» of dark blue taffeta. At first glauco there Is nothing strikingly origi¬ nal about this, blue canvas skirt and taffeta coat, and yet tho entire costume hns nn exceptionally smart look. duo entirely to the way the shirring Is In¬ troduced on the coat, and the outline of the odd lace yoke. CLEVER GIRL'S HIGH HAT. It Is the clever girl, the girl always seeking after things novel, who Is wear¬ ing right now the hat with tho high, high crown. It gives Just the needed finishing touch to her toilet. In this day of hats, which bear such a marked resemblance to a fried egg In shape, tho now Louis Quinze hat Is a happy change. It Is a picture shape,, with a brim that dips at the back and flares becomingly at the left side, and It has an astonishingly high crown. In .all black this hat Is most effective, trimmed with a group of three black ostrich tips and one big artistic looking buckle. This hat offers many possibilities for becoming under-brlm effects. The brim may be partially faced with black velvet or It may be covered with black escurlal lace, the design picked out In pale blue and faint pink silk threads. With a hat of this sort, the very big hat pin Is Introduced. This Is another touch of originality that the clever girl Is Introducing. The new hat pins are at least three times larger than any¬ thing ever seen before. They are big balls In shnpe, and the most effective are of gun metal, studded with either rhlne- stones. turquoises, bits of Jade or ame¬ thysts. DRAWN-WORK TRIMMINGS. Mexican drawn-work in a band form gives a very now touch to an all-white gown of molviir. The costume Is really a shirt-waist suit and the skirt, which is tucked and finished with velveteen binding to protect its hem. Is trimmed with tho Mexican drawn-work. The drawn-work forms a tablier down the front of the skirt and also outlines the flounce. It is introduced, too, on the shirt-waist to carry a. straight line ef¬ fect In tho front and strap the sleevo in a band. This gown Is exceptionally cool looking and Just the correct thing for midsummer wear. The white linen shirt-waist suits are having a distinct vogue of their own this year. Many of them owe their smart look to merely the arrangement of tho tucks which are Introduced. In¬ stead of being trimmed with embroid¬ ery or pipings of a contrasting shade of linen or silk, tucks are used to form the flounce and to emphasize the special lines of the skirt, such as the stole front, tho hip yoke, otc. Many of tho newest midsummer gowns are made with the fascinating little bolero, which Is shown In a variety of shape«. It Is extremely short this year, and la made to stand away from the figure with the filmy blouse hanging below .it. A white mohair Sicilienne gown, made with ono of tho little Bhort boleros, la trimmed effectively with cream-tinted antique lace. About the waist Is a. ciircfully fitted girdle of soft white silk, which show« to a«lvantago the beauty of ihe new French curve figure, which owes Its graceful lines to th.it clever little appliance, tho Rosalind, which so securely holds the skirt ban«! and the waist In their, proper places. How Bre'r WaJker S By NOVELLA ROUTT REYNOLDS. * "Jcb' look at dat long y'earded son ob .Satin! Come out er dar Rre'r Walker en let John Jack in. Dar nebber wu_ dat mule born dis nigger couldn't han¬ dle." * BreV Alf and Rre'r Walker had been trying for several hours to master a small mouse-colored mule of the stub¬ born type. Kallm evidently considered It his prerogative to make up In rebellion for what nature had denied him In weight and proportion. "Kf I kin git out er here befo' dis mule kicks do aide de head oft me, Bro'r John, I'll sho gib you de fio' " answers Bre'r wauter from the stable. "Who'a dar Salum! watch dem heels tryln' ter recn cler ter de top er de manger! Now, Myrtle hoss, doan you git ter slash- in' 'roun, too, fur you's er 'spectablo hoss, wnufs done broke ter white folks' way, 'tay wuth while fur you ter Kit hack te yo' ole prancln' en pawln'j «lis mule's ornuff fer me. 'riout you.Who'a. rlar Salum! I Wight I had er named 'Im Haalum, en had olo Baal hisself rldln' Im. Fur aho ef de angel wld do flamin' swode had er hnd er mina ter pop 'Im er lick, he mom er doue It, fur all ole walker keers." "Come out er dar en lern me hab er chance," still persisted Rre'r John. "What you take fur dat mule enny how? Kf he 'longed tor me, I 'ud pick 'lm un en drap 'Im ober dut hresh fence vender, en lef 'Im dar. dat I would. He aln' fit fur mithin' nohow hut «er kick dem heels, en make um Innk lek «ley longs Up'arda, 'stld er dein long y'ears ob bls'n." Bre'r Walker and Bre'r Alf had ex- haunted every means «if chastisement In TlITi: flallm had set his ears well back, and from under one of them directed a dan¬ gerous ball of white towards his owner, while on the other aid» Rre'r Alf was kept busy avoiding a succession Of klclis In deadly fear of getting his "shins hark¬ ed." Bre'r Walker had caullouslv edged his wav Into the stable trying to halter the little fury, but on hearing John's wel¬ come offer, hacked out. only too glad to turn the refractory progenitor of mule flesh over to his more daring neighbor. Stroking with a rouch Index finger the moisture from his corrugated forehead, he climbed the "draw-bar" nnd seated himself to "git meh wind hack, en res' er leetle. artef wrastlln' will dat mule." John .lack was a giant ot decide*! Afri¬ can type, who prided himself on being "d( anliest nigger 'roun' whut d'ares 1er túsala wid er long v'eared fool mule when he gits shoensyfled." "Whar's yer saddle. Bre'r Walker?" "pn dar on er nail ef you kin git by dal mule fur ter git it. Rre'r John. John extended a long arm around tho door for a rake, and with It hooked out the saddle ¡which hung on a rusty nail in the wall. Climbing Into the loft above, with a midden spring ha was down by the side of the astonished mule, und had the halter on him In a twinkling. By holding the animal by the nose with one hsJid ha had th« mastery, and being alnewy, he retained his grin. Ujice out- hide with the assistance of his f rien is he soon liad Kallm brldcd and saddled. and was readv for "who ¡us' de logues"" «iiioted Bre'r Alf. "W«ll, I declar'! you's er man sho'," exolaluied Fro'r WaJker. "Halum'll soon l>« er lame critter." Bre'r John loosened his hold on the ouiverlng nomriis of the now thorough¬ ly aroused mule, and uprlngtn. on lu» back, was off down the lane like a shot. "Huro-m.«Joan tell me mules aln' »perrlted, dey la " ejaculated Rre'r Alf. Bre'r John being tall, and Ballm short, he had much difficulty Jn keeping hi» feet from touching the ground, and was also in dangerous proximity to several bee *iv*a «lumbering la the meadow lot uw- der an old apple tree. When Sallm's head was down, he had to see his wool was safe from roots and ¡»tumps. The onlookers, which had gathered from other parts of the field, stood nudging each other. "Laook at 'im. dar!" as Sallm nearly unseated his rider. "Dnr's mo' nigger den mule." exclaimed Bre'r Walker, "en Bro'r John's boun' ter git Urn .Vit." The rest of the story Is told as Undo see, ez dey kep' up, tell I see Sahun wtiz iveakenln', fur Is y'oars wuz glttln' tlahbv like. "I lowed ter Pre'r Alf." I h'lleve Sn- luin's givln' in." Den I tolls Bre'r John; "You kay'rn say you's rid In do saddle, fur de mule's got do stirrups; but you's got de upper han', Salum's losin' grit." Preseny dat. mule got tired tryln' ter ride bisset', en seein' he couldn't git bo's fnots I out or be stirrups, I lowed ter Bre'r Alf dat we moot ez well hep 'Im er leetle. Wo THE TRADK Walker saw it from the laqa rail of the "draw-bars." "l-'aaro Gawd, dat mulp, »z leetle ez he wUf, «uz alo games' qntter ebber si" lie ken pr bat-kin' en kickln' am turnlu' r-usldn «»hi, mule ways, till .ia- saddle g't tie» under he's belly; eia when, he got abf malilla- ahu way, lire-'i Jaii'.r. ,la»:U bad lor btat 01. Hakim's li'ill' back. l'tti-ncy al iiaiili- g.at be * Cools In da- stirrups, 'Mid er bro'i' John's, lien war'n laliaa widen wnz ti- »in " iK-' rid In', Bre'r John it do rautt. blub .¦¦ ail..,:.::, eji wollui'iu' vou nubbgr WAS M A DIS. ia,u- Bre'r John íftoh 1er Kit r'it"n Im, dat incabbe lit- wiiz duna' broke, ,z lie's y vari» Wue llappin' clot ober lac'.- law baana-s; alai |)OW we lut ou 111 tea,! lac's sperrt) W'UZ leuvlii' 'im. Bre'r John gol "ff n Im in III a,ta de glaallll'; ill II Kl' L'ail liaaWll fil l(«aU BalUin'S '..a.la. .,l|l or 'le «tin UIH. Wlafllll yaalt la'lll;VI- Il '.' [j¿ sa,.,., ,-z a'Ial iiaiiia- knaawi-'i lia-''- fouit 'wuz i-la-r. I..a riz lam Up eil Ill'UlU- "in llia»a...l ill l'll-'f John's ..Ht«'» John druppei" on de groiin' rollln' a.Il I;¦, 1 !. 11l' al.al BulUIll ll.nl .aa' kilt 'lin. Al« eu liiur All' caul down den vu ti.ai, vu glv' dat mule up: fur ef Bre'r John had ter discommode he's stummuck all dat les ter commodate Salum's heels, we had ter glv' 'Im up ter hlssef. Je.s don Bre'r John rls up holdln' he's stummuck, en dis ole nlgcer mos' fell off'n de fence when he 'lowed: "Bre'r Walker, what you take fur dat mule now? I wants 'Im: he's wuth sumnln' ef he kin git do bes' ob John Jack.'' "I tole 'Im he mout hav' Salum fur he's mule Sally, en two hawgs; hit bein' near killin' time en de fnttenln' ob um mos' ober. Dat closed de bargain, en ter dis day Bre'r John's w'orryin' wld dat mule; sometimes lie's doln' de rldin', en some¬ times Salum. he's cot de stirrups." »oo©©_G5..oa»ooe(_t_oö09_o*5eo > O ! Matrimonial ? Insunqpce. { By DOROTHY DIX. g > ©o »o©aüC30i.©oe«oc©o» <_ ccoca NKWSPAPBR. dispatch says Huit a number of capitalists, who desire to combine protll and philanthropy, are organiz¬ ing a kind of matrimonial ac¬ cident company, which Is to Insure women against becoming old maids, so that In the event of not hav¬ ing a husband to support her, a spinster may at least hnvo the conolatlon of drawing an annuity. This Is a worthy and feasible plan, and It should be easy enough to figure out a reliable (able of risks, since' a woman's Ideals and fancies move In cy¬ cles, and It Is, generally speaking, pos¬ sible to not only toll what her danger of marrying Is n't any age, but the kind of «nan she Is liable to marry, There are two limes In a woman's life when Hho will marry anybody who is («round handy. This Is when she Is seven¬ teen and twenty-seven, but between these agi « she picks and chooses, and If she commits matrimony It Is a case of mooting her Ideal or of outside Influ¬ ence. Il -i debutante doesn't marry the first man who asks hor li Is because her guardian nnge| Is ».tending strictly to business ,m,| Hhoos off the danger. It isn't the girl's fault. To a girl ihn IhOUghl «hit idle has Inspired affection in a man's liearl Is so unutterably flat¬ tering, und she feels so grateful to him fin singling her out from the bnlnnce of her sex, thai she easily persuades her¬ self she |s In love, She Is full of the romance and poetry she Iris been reading all of her life, and this Is her first opportunity to expend It on a live object. She lb playing Juliet off her own liai, and the game Intoxl-, cates her with Its excitement. Resides, she has not vet learned thai love Is sel- 1I..111 a fatal complaint with «non. and It makes her sluuldcr to think of breaking a heart and wreckln«-' a life, ''ons«- «luenlly sin- Is apt to say "yes"" only too often to fii-d out. If she marries, that tuve's youiiB dream I» «« nightmare. By tin- time she Is nineteen It Is no h nger Ane man. It Ih .Some man. She has begun to have an Ideal- He mnsl be tall, anil dirk, and passionate looking. «¡ih ;, mysterious past. Preferably his l'a H h -lu.11I.I have been shaken In .ills Kind and he should take desperate and sslinlMtli views of life. »'»lUI hi' »»'1 her his heart was Ashes, hut her purity Innocence restore ''Is tottering !n>- lief In humanity, and turns existence once more I. an l-Men. It Is at this thai .-. girl I» attacked with aculo mlsvlonary fervor, and I« Ihihlo to marry la I'tiiiik.aril In reform him- At twenty her Ideal has changea, it I« I THE GRAVE OF PATRICK HENRY j 8 A Sketch By EMMA HENRY FERQUSON. Î Tho attention of tho public has been called several times recently through tho columns of The Tlmos-Dlspatch to the resting pince of Patrick Henry.one writer designating It as being In Camp- hell county, and another exhorting the people of Virginia to remove his ashes from a"far and inter them In his native tleath of Patrick Henry In 177ÎI. It was left to h'o youngest son, John, and ad- loins a two thousand acre estate left to his next youngest son. Edward Win¬ ston. It Is easv to realize that four thousand acres of land owned by the two Henrys and their doscenflur.».» for mote than one hundred years, would create an oxclmdvcness of possf'sslon that given to that end of tho county u distinct re- ' RED HILL, HOUR OF PATRICK HENRY. State, ns he would so desire. In con- Klderntlon of these wldo departures from the truth of the matter, tho undersigned descendant of the orator feels It her duty, as well as privilege, to make a succinct statement relative, to It. The grave of Patrick Henry lies at Red i Uli. In Charlotte county, Virginia, near tlie banks of the Staunton River. That the locality is remote arises from the fad l hut it has been a large inherited estate of two thousand acres since tho moteness. though the charge of obscuri¬ ty is not substantiated bv fuels. Por these two wealthy laud-owners, Kdwurd Win¬ ston and John, upon attaining their ma¬ turity, erected i'J the memory of their father and mother, nt Red Hill, marble slabs, chaste and handsome, forming a rollare monument (upon Patrick Hen¬ ry's Is the Inscription: "Ills fame his b.es,t epitaph"), anal durinc the life of Mr. and Mrs. John Henry »he grave was kept In »¦xuuislto order, and Red Hill was a mecea to which hundreds of dlstlngulsn Cd people turned reverent footsteps. At the death,of John Henry, bis oldesl son. the Into Mon. William Win Henry cama» Into possession of the estate. Af¬ ter the war the exigencies of the tlmei and bis prominence In his profession re- nulred him to remove from Charlotte tc Richmond, and the homestead of Bed 111(1 wax for a time closed by the family which caused It to fall Into comparât v« obscuritv. In a few years, however, th« sway of "tho Henry" was resumed In Itf walls: the mansion in which the oraïbi died was repaired and painted, and again the reoose of old reglmo refinement ¡inri culture was revived. Red Hill 1h beautiful! situated on an elevated ridge, within a quarter of a mil« of the Junction of Palling River with the Htnnnton. From It tho valley of the Ktniinton stretches southward about tlttce miles, varying from a Quarter to nearly a mile in width, and of an oval-like form. Through splendid meadows and broad loivlnnilH slowly whirls the river, over¬ hung by mossy foliage, while on all sides Rt-ntly sloping hills, rich In .verdure, en¬ close the whole. Imparting to the scene nt air of seclusion and sweet repose, l.i viewing It rano can well Imagine Ihn charm It held for the wear.V statesman- the laurel-crowned orator.as a final home In which to lay down the bunions oil public life. Of all his large landed enlaten It was Patrick Henry's in vorlte, and Ho chosb it for ills tnin'splcum, I'nlike many of Virginia's great men he amassed und left to his children a tine fortune; heneo the necessity for tho State to mark his grave lias never appealed to tho publie mind, Huf tho one hundred years inrt which It has lacen In the Henry family luivo wrought iiianv changes In Us con¬ ditions.especially since tho war.and muiré years will, doubtless; br.ng as many more calculated m render family laurying-groiinds but waste places, failli»** out of history-im times pusses. Therefore, should the Slate of Virginia make an appropriation to remove thJ dust of the tjreat orator m St, John's Church and da-posit it under the spot whore ho mad« his liberty speech, there con Id lie ño finer net of appropriate rev¬ erence and patriotism, ft ninv also be suggosted mal Un- ashes of his wife. Dorothea I'aiuliidge, should accompany his; for she was a woman with n na¬ tional record and of rare gifts. She was the granddaughter of the redoubtable Knight of th« Golden Horseshoe, and, during the llrst lime of her husband's governorship of Virginia, she presided over the Executive Mansion al Williams- burg, wherV lier distinguished ancestor bad held Colonial Court. more practical and less romantic. She cuts out the looks and the hard luck story, und adores strength and earnest¬ ness and a lofty way of looking at things. She becomes a hern worshipper, and burn» incense before matinee Idols and social Htttlemeiit worker», and discovers unap¬ preciated geniuses In newspaper scrlb- lil.i-H and long-haired poets. This Is the time when tho curate and tffe Angora .fraternity generally have their innings, and when, iui.losa she has soinehody to save her life, a girl is apt to marry a poet or elope with her music teacher. Twenty-two Is a timo of comparative sgfet,}'. She has begun to enjoy herself and achieve a certain philosophy. She Hill looks forward to nii'trlmony as she does to heavpn a» the reward of the blest, toil she Is In no hurry to enter Into It. Hin- is having too good a time as it Is, «mil she hesitates to exchange. the v|o- letr and candy of many admirers for the breuU mid butter t,f a husband. This is tho time when a girl uses her h«>nd as well as her .heart'when she selects a life partner, and when she Is most apt to make a wl«¡e choice. At twenty-seven all tho danger signals ought to be set. At that nge a woman ge.ts into n panic. She sees that nil of the girls who were her contemporaries ..re married and perceives suddenly that she has been pushed .«side by the younger set She Is asked ot chaperone parties; Instead of dance at them. A few gray hoirs have made their appeal anco. Cid maidenhood Is stnring her In the face, and' her nerve deserts her. She plunges wildly and takes the llrst thing thai of¬ fers. This Is the tipie when a v.'omas Is almost sure to make a foolish match. She marries the old beau who has been lu.nglng on for years, or the widower with seven small children, and spends I ho m lance of her life wondering what made her do It. At thirty-live, if. she has passed safely over the panic period, she begins to'per¬ ceive Huit snlnsterhood has much to rec« omniejid It. She has grown a 1)1 tie cyn¬ ical about love from having seen so much o:' It. that gave out under the lirst stress of matrimony, -anil If she murrles sha Is pretty sure to have a weather eye upon an establishment. At forty tin» old maid Is hopelessly ad» dIfle«t to her latch key ami her own pocket-book, and lier muirlmonlul chunres are nil. Some few widows who have ac- <1 Hired the habit of having a master, and arc lost without one. nmrry after that, but Hie spinster rarely does. When she does, liowe\ er, she throws judgment and reason to the winds and marries to pleas« hei fancy. t if course, no rules can he laid down absolutely lor the game of hearts, and while a woman's Inclliintion toward matri- inony varies al different ages, when th» right man come« along she will marry al ttuv ago Croiu the cradlu to U19 ^rav«,
Transcript of Touches that Tell in the American GirVsSmart Dressing.
Some Touches that Tell in the American GirVs Smart Dressing.This Season's Gowns Alore
Distinctive Than Ever.
ARE STRIKINGLY ORIGINAL
The Way the Trimming is Manip ulated
the Color Combinations and Little
Smart Touches Give the Cachet
to the Entire Costume.
Always, always something new Is the
cry of the American girl. To IntroduceIn her dress some little, new. different
ioilc.b is l-.ci particular delight, and Itwould seem tliial this year, more thanever before, she wns succeeding; fornever lin.re her gown.» for every time ofti.iy been so strikingly -disllncti'i-e andoriginal. To be sure. hey nil show more
jr less the sumo outline.t he skirt with Itsclinging effect Over the hips nnd Its gên¬erons fulness toward tli<* hem. the broadshoulder with Invariably ils cape effect,nnd the sleeves wit 11 their flowing fullnessbelow he elbow.But It Is the way the trimming is
manipulated, the color combinations thatare Introduced, and the little smarttouches which really give the cachet tothe entire costume.
WHITE MOHAIR SICtlilESNNK,This Is conspicuously shown In one
of the new mohair gowns, which has Justbeen made to order for n New York girloff for a summer at tho sea. The dress Isof white mohair sicilienne, with n hipyoke and the material then falling Inmnny plaits to tho feet, where It Is boundwith white veJareteen.The waist Is a prettily shaped blouse
not full enough to disguise the newFrench curvo figuro. But It Is the collarand the trimming down the front of thewaist that grives the smart touch whichmakes the gown distinctive, The collarIs flat and out so that tho throat showsa trifle In front. It Is made of brilliantscarlet velvet and trimmed with rows ofgold braid and It fastens to the wnlstwith two Mr pearl buttons. Beneath thiscollar Is nn unusually broad shouldercapé of the mohair, which falls well oi'r.tlthe sleeves and Is trimmed with diamond-shaped Insets of the vivid scarlet velvet,framed In gold hrnld. The blouse Is tuck¬ed at the sides, and down the front thereare many dangling cords In white silk andred silk. They are arranged to g1ve a
shower effect, Which is sbmethlng ex¬
tremely new and original. The whitesleeve has a dash of bright color glu-enIt by a deep cuff of the scarlet velvetcrossed with many rows of gold.**rnld.It Is Jiut this Introduction of brightvelvet with the glint of gold that takesaway and conventional look from thiswhite mohair gown.
TAFFETA SILK COATSJIt is the same way with a taffeta silk
coat. There are so many silk coats thisyear that to fVnd anything original is a
difficult matter. But here Is a coat Justdiscovered by the clever woman who Isalways on the nlcrt for something outof the ordinary. It Is a quaint coat, In a
senFO of the picture, variety, and yet Itis the smartest style possible. It Is madeof blue taffeta and Is three-ounrterlength. The upper part of the coat falls Ina plaited blouse, the silk belnR shirred"o form a Viand trimming, which outlines.:be deep yoke with Its long, long sluuuldorind continues down the front to the.»ointed girdle belt.
. The lower part of the coat displays a
.arefully fitted skirt cut away In fronti trifle and laid In three flatly stltclwTl(.laits. The sleeve Is full and finished with
wide buttoned-over strap cuff. A be-a'oming touch of white Is Introduced atthe neck by having the yoke which shows
DESCRIPTIONS OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS.I. A welcome relief from the low, flat shapes so long in vogue Is nffoided
by the new Louis Quinze hnt, with Its high crown, brond loaf and nrtlstlc
buckle holding the group of three ostrich plumes. Tho model In tho pictureIs Imported this week by Francis. Fifth Avenue, who says that the under-
brltn trimming may bo arranged In almost ««ny way to suit the wearer, or
may even be omitted altogether.II. Every womnn wants to have her frocks set with the fascinating
French curve nt the waist. Many costume"« ore mnde to wear with tlio
Rosalind adjuster to attain this effect. In this illustration the gown of
white Sicilienne shows a corsnge with bolero nnd blouse effect, »ind the deep
pointed belt outlines the French cur.vc sharply, while showing the enameled
shield of the Rosalind. The. long skirt hns a tucked flounce and a velvet
binding at the foot.
III. This suit of white mohair and Mexican banding, while of the shirt¬
waist order, offers "tho something different" that every woman seeks. The
Mexlcnn bnndlng form«? a tablier down the front, outlines the deep flounce
and makes sleeve decoration, collar and cuff for tho shirt-waist. The skirt
being cut en trainc, has a velveteen binding and protects the hem.
the decided sloping shoulder of real Irishlaca.With this smart-looking coat Is worn
a skirt of heavy blue French canvaá,oxactly matching It In color. Thelower part of the skirt Is trimmed withbias fold» of dark blue taffeta. At firstglauco there Is nothing strikingly origi¬nal about this, blue canvas skirt andtaffeta coat, and yet tho entire costumehns nn exceptionally smart look. duoentirely to the way the shirring Is In¬troduced on the coat, and the outline ofthe odd lace yoke.
CLEVER GIRL'S HIGH HAT.It Is the clever girl, the girl always
seeking after things novel, who Is wear¬
ing right now the hat with tho high,high crown. It gives Just the neededfinishing touch to her toilet. In thisday of hats, which bear such a markedresemblance to a fried egg In shape, thonow Louis Quinze hat Is a happychange. It Is a picture shape,, with abrim that dips at the back and flaresbecomingly at the left side, and It hasan astonishingly high crown. In .allblack this hat Is most effective, trimmedwith a group of three black ostrich tipsand one big artistic looking buckle.This hat offers many possibilities forbecoming under-brlm effects. The brim
may be partially faced with blackvelvet or It may be covered with blackescurlal lace, the design picked out In
pale blue and faint pink silk threads.With a hat of this sort, the very bighat pin Is Introduced. This Is anothertouch of originality that the clever girlIs Introducing. The new hat pins are
at least three times larger than any¬thing ever seen before. They are bigballs In shnpe, and the most effective are
of gun metal, studded with either rhlne-stones. turquoises, bits of Jade or ame¬
thysts.DRAWN-WORK TRIMMINGS.
Mexican drawn-work in a band formgives a very now touch to an all-whitegown of molviir. The costume Is reallya shirt-waist suit and the skirt, which istucked and finished with velveteen
binding to protect its hem. Is trimmedwith tho Mexican drawn-work. Thedrawn-work forms a tablier down thefront of the skirt and also outlines theflounce. It is introduced, too, on theshirt-waist to carry a. straight line ef¬fect In tho front and strap the sleevoin a band. This gown Is exceptionallycool looking and Just the correct thingfor midsummer wear.
The white linen shirt-waist suits are
having a distinct vogue of their ownthis year. Many of them owe theirsmart look to merely the arrangementof tho tucks which are Introduced. In¬stead of being trimmed with embroid¬ery or pipings of a contrasting shade oflinen or silk, tucks are used to form theflounce and to emphasize the special
lines of the skirt, such as the stole front,tho hip yoke, otc.Many of tho newest midsummer
gowns are made with the fascinatinglittle bolero, which Is shown In a
variety of shape«. It Is extremely shortthis year, and la made to stand awayfrom the figure with the filmy blousehanging below .it.A white mohair Sicilienne gown, made
with ono of tho little Bhort boleros, latrimmed effectively with cream-tintedantique lace. About the waist Is a.
ciircfully fitted girdle of soft white silk,which show« to a«lvantago the beautyof ihe new French curve figure, whichowes Its graceful lines to th.it cleverlittle appliance, tho Rosalind, which so
securely holds the skirt ban«! and thewaist In their, proper places.
How Bre'r WaJker SBy NOVELLA ROUTT REYNOLDS. *
"Jcb' look at dat long y'earded son ob.Satin! Come out er dar Rre'r Walkeren let John Jack in. Dar nebber wu_
dat mule born dis nigger couldn't han¬dle." *BreV Alf and Rre'r Walker had been
trying for several hours to master asmall mouse-colored mule of the stub¬born type. Kallm evidently considered Ithis prerogative to make up In rebellionfor what nature had denied him In weightand proportion."Kf I kin git out er here befo' dis mule
kicks do aide de head oft me, Bro'r John,I'll sho gib you de fio' " answers Bre'rwauter from the stable. "Who'a darSalum! watch dem heels tryln' ter recncler ter de top er de manger!Now, Myrtle hoss, doan you git ter slash-
in' 'roun, too, fur you's er 'spectablohoss, wnufs done broke ter white folks'way, 'tay wuth while fur you ter Kithack te yo' ole prancln' en pawln'j «lismule's ornuff fer me. 'riout you.Who'a.rlar Salum! I Wight I had er named 'ImHaalum, en had olo Baal hisself rldln'Im.Fur aho ef de angel wld do flamin'
swode had er hnd er mina ter pop 'Imer lick, he mom er doue It, fur all olewalker keers.""Come out er dar en lern me hab er
chance," still persisted Rre'r John."What you take fur dat mule ennyhow? Kf he 'longed tor me, I 'ud pick
'lm un en drap 'Im ober dut hresh fencevender, en lef 'Im dar. dat I would. Healn' fit fur mithin' nohow hut «er kickdem heels, en make um Innk lek «leylongs Up'arda, 'stld er dein long y'earsob bls'n."Bre'r Walker and Bre'r Alf had ex-
haunted every means «if chastisement InTlITi: flallm had set his ears well back, andfrom under one of them directed a dan¬gerous ball of white towards his owner,while on the other aid» Rre'r Alf waskept busy avoiding a succession Of klclisIn deadly fear of getting his "shins hark¬ed."Bre'r Walker had caullouslv edged his
wav Into the stable trying to halter thelittle fury, but on hearing John's wel¬come offer, hacked out. only too glad toturn the refractory progenitor of muleflesh over to his more daring neighbor.Stroking with a rouch Index finger themoisture from his corrugated forehead,he climbed the "draw-bar" nnd seatedhimself to "git meh wind hack, en res'er leetle. artef wrastlln' will dat mule."John .lack was a giant ot decide*! Afri¬
can type, who prided himself on being"d( anliest nigger 'roun' whut d'ares1er túsala wid er long v'eared fool mulewhen he gits shoensyfled.""Whar's yer saddle. Bre'r Walker?""pn dar on er nail ef you kin git by
dal mule fur ter git it. Rre'r John.John extended a long arm around tho
door for a rake, and with It hooked outthe saddle ¡which hung on a rusty nailin the wall. Climbing Into the loft above,with a midden spring ha was down bythe side of the astonished mule, und hadthe halter on him In a twinkling. Byholding the animal by the nose with onehsJid ha had th« mastery, and beingalnewy, he retained his grin. Ujice out-hide with the assistance of his f rien ishe soon liad Kallm brldcd and saddled.and was readv for "who ¡us' de logues""«iiioted Bre'r Alf."W«ll, I declar'! you's er man sho',"
exolaluied Fro'r WaJker. "Halum'll soonl>« er lame critter."Bre'r John loosened his hold on the
ouiverlng nomriis of the now thorough¬ly aroused mule, and uprlngtn. on lu»back, was off down the lane like a shot."Huro-m.«Joan tell me mules aln'
»perrlted, dey la " ejaculated Rre'r Alf.Bre'r John being tall, and Ballm short,
he had much difficulty Jn keeping hi» feetfrom touching the ground, and was alsoin dangerous proximity to several bee*iv*a «lumbering la the meadow lot uw-
der an old apple tree. When Sallm'shead was down, he had to see his woolwas safe from roots and ¡»tumps. Theonlookers, which had gathered from otherparts of the field, stood nudging eachother. "Laook at 'im. dar!" as Sallmnearly unseated his rider."Dnr's mo' nigger den mule." exclaimed
Bre'r Walker, "en Bro'r John's boun' tergit Urn .Vit."The rest of the story Is told as Undo
see, ez dey kep' up, tell I see Sahunwtiz iveakenln', fur Is y'oars wuz glttln'tlahbv like.
"I lowed ter Pre'r Alf." I h'lleve Sn-luin's givln' in." Den I tolls Bre'r John;"You kay'rn say you's rid In do saddle,fur de mule's got do stirrups; but you'sgot de upper han', Salum's losin' grit."Preseny dat. mule got tired tryln' ter ridebisset', en seein' he couldn't git bo's fnots
I out or be stirrups, I lowed ter Bre'r Alfdat we moot ez well hep 'Im er leetle. Wo
THE TRADK
Walker saw it from the laqa rail of the"draw-bars."
"l-'aaro Gawd, dat mulp, »z leetle ez hewUf, «uz alo games' qntter ebber si"lie ken pr bat-kin' en kickln' am turnlu'r-usldn «»hi, mule ways, till .ia- saddle g'ttie» under he's belly; eia when, he got abfmalilla- ahu way, lire-'i Jaii'.r. ,la»:U bad lorbtat 01. Hakim's li'ill' back. l'tti-ncy aliiaiili- g.at be * Cools In da- stirrups, 'Mider bro'i' John's, lien war'n laliaa widenwnz ti- »in " iK-' rid In', Bre'r John it dorautt.blub .¦¦ ail..,:.::, eji wollui'iu' vou nubbgr
WAS M A DIS.
ia,u- Bre'r John íftoh 1er Kit r'it"n Im, datincabbe lit- wiiz duna' broke, ,z lie's y vari»Wue llappin' clot ober lac'.- law baana-s;alai |)OW we lut ou 111 tea,! lac's sperrt) W'UZleuvlii' 'im. Bre'r John gol "ff n Im inIII a,ta de glaallll'; ill II Kl' L'ail liaaWll fill(«aU BalUin'S '..a.la. .,l|l or 'le «tin UIH.Wlafllll yaalt la'lll;VI- Il '.' [j¿ sa,.,., ,-z a'Ialiiaiiia- knaawi-'i lia-''- fouit 'wuz i-la-r. I..a rizlam Up eil Ill'UlU- "in llia»a...l ill l'll-'f John's
..Ht«'» John druppei" on de groiin' rollln'a.Il I;¦, 1 !. 11l' al.al BulUIll ll.nl .aa' kilt 'lin.Al« eu liiur All' caul down den vu ti.ai, vu
glv' dat mule up: fur ef Bre'r John hadter discommode he's stummuck all datles ter commodate Salum's heels, we hadter glv' 'Im up ter hlssef. Je.s don Bre'rJohn rls up holdln' he's stummuck, endis ole nlgcer mos' fell off'n de fencewhen he 'lowed:"Bre'r Walker, what you take fur dat
mule now? I wants 'Im: he's wuthsumnln' ef he kin git do bes' ob JohnJack.''
"I tole 'Im he mout hav' Salum fur he'smule Sally, en two hawgs; hit bein' nearkillin' time en de fnttenln' ob um mos'ober. Dat closed de bargain, en ter disday Bre'r John's w'orryin' wld dat mule;sometimes lie's doln' de rldin', en some¬times Salum. he's cot de stirrups."
»oo©©_G5..oa»ooe(_t_oö09_o*5eo> O
! Matrimonial ?Insunqpce.
{ By DOROTHY DIX. g>©o»o©aüC30i.©oe«oc©o» <_ ccoca
NKWSPAPBR. dispatch saysHuit a number of capitalists,who desire to combine protlland philanthropy, are organiz¬ing a kind of matrimonial ac¬cident company, which Is to
Insure women against becoming oldmaids, so that In the event of not hav¬ing a husband to support her, a spinstermay at least hnvo the conolatlon ofdrawing an annuity.This Is a worthy and feasible plan,
and It should be easy enough to figureout a reliable (able of risks, since' awoman's Ideals and fancies move In cy¬cles, and It Is, generally speaking, pos¬sible to not only toll what her dangerof marrying Is n't any age, but the kindof «nan she Is liable to marry,There are two limes In a woman's life
when Hho will marry anybody who is(«round handy. This Is when she Is seven¬teen and twenty-seven, but betweenthese agi « she picks and chooses, and Ifshe commits matrimony It Is a case ofmooting her Ideal or of outside Influ¬ence.
Il -i debutante doesn't marry the firstman who asks hor li Is because herguardian nnge| Is ».tending strictly tobusiness ,m,| Hhoos off the danger. Itisn't the girl's fault. To a girl ihnIhOUghl «hit idle has Inspired affectionin a man's liearl Is so unutterably flat¬tering, und she feels so grateful to himfin singling her out from the bnlnnce ofher sex, thai she easily persuades her¬self she |s In love,She Is full of the romance and poetry
she Iris been reading all of her life, andthis Is her first opportunity to expendIt on a live object. She lb playing Julietoff her own liai, and the game Intoxl-,cates her with Its excitement. Resides,she has not vet learned thai love Is sel-1I..111 a fatal complaint with «non. and Itmakes her sluuldcr to think of breakinga heart and wreckln«-' a life, ''ons«-«luenlly sin- Is apt to say "yes"" only toooften to fii-d out. If she marries, thattuve's youiiB dream I» «« nightmare.By tin- time she Is nineteen It Is no
h nger Ane man. It Ih .Some man. Shehas begun to have an Ideal- He mnsl betall, anil dirk, and passionate looking.«¡ih ;, mysterious past. Preferably hisl'a H h -lu.11I.I have been shaken In .illsKind and he should take desperate and
sslinlMtli views of life. »'»lUI hi' »»'1her his heart was Ashes, hut her purity
Innocence restore ''Is tottering !n>-lief In humanity, and turns existenceonce more I. an l-Men. It Is at this
thai .-. girl I» attacked with aculo
mlsvlonary fervor, and I« Ihihlo to marryla I'tiiiik.aril In reform him-
At twenty her Ideal has changea, it I«
I THE GRAVE OF PATRICK HENRY j8 A Sketch By EMMA HENRY FERQUSON. Î
Tho attention of tho public has beencalled several times recently through thocolumns of The Tlmos-Dlspatch to theresting pince of Patrick Henry.onewriter designating It as being In Camp-hell county, and another exhorting thepeople of Virginia to remove his ashesfrom a"far and inter them In his native
tleath of Patrick Henry In 177ÎI. It was
left to h'o youngest son, John, and ad-loins a two thousand acre estate leftto his next youngest son. Edward Win¬ston. It Is easv to realize that fourthousand acres of land owned by the twoHenrys and their doscenflur.».» for motethan one hundred years, would createan oxclmdvcness of possf'sslon that givento that end of tho county u distinct re-
' RED HILL, HOUR OF PATRICK HENRY.
State, ns he would so desire. In con-Klderntlon of these wldo departures fromthe truth of the matter, tho undersigneddescendant of the orator feels It her duty,as well as privilege, to make a succinctstatement relative, to It.The grave of Patrick Henry lies at Red
i Uli. In Charlotte county, Virginia, neartlie banks of the Staunton River. Thatthe locality is remote arises from thefad l hut it has been a large inheritedestate of two thousand acres since tho
moteness. though the charge of obscuri¬ty is not substantiated bv fuels. Por thesetwo wealthy laud-owners, Kdwurd Win¬ston and John, upon attaining their ma¬
turity, erected i'J the memory of theirfather and mother, nt Red Hill, marbleslabs, chaste and handsome, forming a
rollare monument (upon Patrick Hen¬ry's Is the Inscription: "Ills fame his b.es,tepitaph"), anal durinc the life of Mr. andMrs. John Henry »he grave was kept In»¦xuuislto order, and Red Hill was a
mecea to which hundreds of dlstlngulsnCd people turned reverent footsteps.At the death,of John Henry, bis oldesl
son. the Into Mon. William Win Henrycama» Into possession of the estate. Af¬ter the war the exigencies of the tlmeiand bis prominence In his profession re-
nulred him to remove from Charlotte tcRichmond, and the homestead of Bed111(1 wax for a time closed by the familywhich caused It to fall Into comparât v«
obscuritv. In a few years, however, th«sway of "tho Henry" was resumed In Itfwalls: the mansion in which the oraïbidied was repaired and painted, and againthe reoose of old reglmo refinement ¡inriculture was revived.Red Hill 1h beautiful! situated on an
elevated ridge, within a quarter of a mil«of the Junction of Palling River with theHtnnnton. From It tho valley of theKtniinton stretches southward about tlttcemiles, varying from a Quarter to nearlya mile in width, and of an oval-like form.Through splendid meadows and broad
loivlnnilH slowly whirls the river, over¬hung by mossy foliage, while on all sidesRt-ntly sloping hills, rich In .verdure, en¬
close the whole. Imparting to the scenent air of seclusion and sweet repose, l.iviewing It rano can well Imagine Ihncharm It held for the wear.V statesman-the laurel-crowned orator.as a final homeIn which to lay down the bunions oilpublic life. Of all his large landed enlatenIt was Patrick Henry's in vorlte, and Hochosb it for ills tnin'splcum, I'nlike manyof Virginia's great men he amassed undleft to his children a tine fortune; heneothe necessity for tho State to mark hisgrave lias never appealed to tho publiemind, Huf tho one hundred years inrtwhich It has lacen In the Henry familyluivo wrought iiianv changes In Us con¬
ditions.especially since tho war.andmuiré years will, doubtless; br.ng as
many more calculated m render familylaurying-groiinds but waste places, failli»**out of history-im times pusses.Therefore, should the Slate of Virginia
make an appropriation to remove thJdust of the tjreat orator m St, John'sChurch and da-posit it under the spotwhore ho mad« his liberty speech, therecon Id lie ño finer net of appropriate rev¬erence and patriotism, ft ninv also besuggosted mal Un- ashes of his wife.Dorothea I'aiuliidge, should accompanyhis; for she was a woman with n na¬tional record and of rare gifts. She wasthe granddaughter of the redoubtableKnight of th« Golden Horseshoe, and,during the llrst lime of her husband'sgovernorship of Virginia, she presidedover the Executive Mansion al Williams-burg, wherV lier distinguished ancestorbad held Colonial Court.
more practical and less romantic. She
cuts out the looks and the hard luckstory, und adores strength and earnest¬ness and a lofty way of looking at things.She becomes a hern worshipper, and burn»incense before matinee Idols and socialHtttlemeiit worker», and discovers unap¬preciated geniuses In newspaper scrlb-lil.i-H and long-haired poets. This Is thetime when tho curate and tffe Angora.fraternity generally have their innings,and when, iui.losa she has soinehody tosave her life, a girl is apt to marry a
poet or elope with her music teacher.Twenty-two Is a timo of comparative
sgfet,}'. She has begun to enjoy herselfand achieve a certain philosophy. SheHill looks forward to nii'trlmony as shedoes to heavpn a» the reward of the blest,toil she Is In no hurry to enter Into It.Hin- is having too good a time as it Is,«mil she hesitates to exchange. the v|o-letr and candy of many admirers for thebreuU mid butter t,f a husband. This is
tho time when a girl uses her h«>nd as
well as her .heart'when she selects a life
partner, and when she Is most apt tomake a wl«¡e choice.At twenty-seven all tho danger signals
ought to be set. At that nge a woman
ge.ts into n panic. She sees that nil ofthe girls who were her contemporaries..re married and perceives suddenly thatshe has been pushed .«side by the youngerset She Is asked ot chaperone parties;Instead of dance at them. A few grayhoirs have made their appeal anco. Cidmaidenhood Is stnring her In the face,and' her nerve deserts her. She plungeswildly and takes the llrst thing thai of¬fers. This Is the tipie when a v.'omasIs almost sure to make a foolish match.She marries the old beau who has beenlu.nglng on for years, or the widowerwith seven small children, and spendsI ho m lance of her life wondering whatmade her do It.At thirty-live, if. she has passed safely
over the panic period, she begins to'per¬ceive Huit snlnsterhood has much to rec«omniejid It. She has grown a 1)1 tie cyn¬ical about love from having seen so mucho:' It. that gave out under the lirst stressof matrimony, -anil If she murrles shaIs pretty sure to have a weather eye uponan establishment.At forty tin» old maid Is hopelessly ad»
dIfle«t to her latch key ami her ownpocket-book, and lier muirlmonlul chunresare nil. Some few widows who have ac-<1 Hired the habit of having a master, andarc lost without one. nmrry after that,but Hie spinster rarely does. When shedoes, liowe\ er, she throws judgment andreason to the winds and marries to pleas«hei fancy.
t if course, no rules can he laid downabsolutely lor the game of hearts, andwhile a woman's Inclliintion toward matri-inony varies al different ages, when th»right man come« along she will marry alttuv ago Croiu the cradlu to U19 ^rav«,
