The Pilgrims' Way to Santiago in Navarre
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THE PILGRIMS’ WAY TO SANTIAGO IN NAVARRE
Navarre borders on France along 163 kilometres. To the south it adjoins La Rioja and Zaragoza; to the east,Huesca and Zaragoza, and to the west, Guipuzcoa and Alava. Navarre covers 10,421 km2 and it is divided intofour areas: the Pyrenees, the Pamplona Basin, the Middle Zone and the Ribera Region. It has a population of over600,000, of which practically one half live in the capital, Pamplona, and in surrounding municipalities. Othercities are Tudela, second largest city in Navarre and capital of the Ribera Region, and Estella-Lizarra, Sangüesaand Tafalla, in the Middle Zone.
SPAIN
Location
• Introduction .................................................................... 3• French Route ................................................................. 6• French Route (passing through Aragon)..... 22• Pilgrim’s Way through Baztan ..................... 28
• Pilgrim’s Way along the Ebro ....................... 30• The pilgrim .................................................................. 32• Routes in Spain ......................................................... 34• Routes in Navarre ................................................... 35
Table of contents
ASIA
NAVARRA
Tafalla
Tudela
Viana
Los Arcos
Puente la Reina
Sangüesa
Monreal
Tiebas
Pamplona Zubiri
Orreaga/Roncesvalles
Luzaide/Valcarlos
French RouteFrench Route (passing through Aragon)
EUROPE Estella-Lizarra
Ayegui
Introduction to the Pilgrim’s way3
Introduction
A thousand-year-old routeSANTIAGO WAS ONE OF JESUS CHRIST’S TWELVE APOSTLES WHO, ACCORDING TO CHRISTIAN TRADITION,PREACHED IN HISPANIA BEFORE BEING DECAPITATED IN JERUSALEM IN 44 AD. LEGEND HAS IT THAT HIS BODY
WAS TAKEN IN A BOAT TO THE END OF THE WESTERN WORLD, WHERE HE WAS BURIED.
Eight centuries later, around 812, a hermit saw miracu-lous shining lights and drawing near, found a cemeterywith the tomb of the Apostle in what today isCompostela. The Asturian King Alfonso II the Chastewent to Compostela from Oviedo to visit the tomb andthis was the beginning of the Christian pilgrimages toSantiago de Compostela which were to leave a profoundmark on the economic, religious, political and socialdevelopment of Spanish kingdoms.In a few decades the roads were filled with pilgrims andCompostela became a site of pilgrimage as important asRome and Jerusalem. Its expansion was supported by allauthorities as reinforcement of the recently-begun re-conquest of Spain against the Muslim emirate, later the
Caliphate of Cordoba. King Sancho III the Elder ofPamplona strongly promoted the Way at the beginningof the second millennium to consolidate a route for thepilgrims who travelled south from Pamplona toLogroño and Nájera. He granted special charters totowns and hamlets and had bridges and hospitals builtalong the route. The numbers of pilgrims increased andthe Way reached its peak in the 12th century. Onslaughts of the plague and religious divisions, amongother causes, resulted in a gradual decline of pilgrimagesup to the late 20th century. In the 1980s the Way to St.James experienced a resurgence, recovering its medievalvigour, thanks to the work of Jacobean associations,local authorities and Pope John Paul II.
Pilgrims in Arre
Introduction
The roadsTHERE IS A SAYING THAT THE PILGRIMS’ WAY TO
SANTIAGO BEGINS AT THEIR OWN DOORSTEP.THIS WAS CERTAINLY TRUE IN THE MIDDLE AGES,WHEN PILGRIMS TRAVELLED ON FOOT FROM THEIR
HOME TOWNS TO COMPOSTELA AND BACK, ALTHOUGH
MANY STAYED ON THE WAY, SOME IN SEARCH OF A
NEW LIFE OR, LESS OFTEN, BECAUSE THEY DIED.
Today, pilgrimages are different. Tens of thousands ofwalkers seek official, well-defined routes where theyfind a network of accommodation facilities dedicatedto pilgrims. Their goal is to reach Santiago following atrail of yellow arrows on foot, bicycle or horseback andthen return to their starting point using other means.The most important route is known as the "FrenchRoute", which enters Spain through Luzaide/Valcarlos,in Navarre, and Somport, in Aragon, both variants joi-ning in Puente la Reina to continue on to Santiago. Itis called thus because it had its origin in France andwas used extensively by pilgrims from that country.However, there are many other ways of reachingSantiago de Compostela. Although not as significant asthe French Route, over the past few years many pil-grims are opting for less crowded alternatives. TheSilver Way takes pilgrims to Santiago from southernSpain. The Northern Way is used by pilgrims along theCantabrian seaboard and enters Galicia from the coast.In the rest of Europe there are numerous Jacobean rou-tes that join in France into four main ones which even-tually enter Spain through Luzaide/Valcarlos orSomport.
Pilgrims walking in front of the portal of the Cathedral of Tudela
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre4
Introduction
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in NavarreTHE ECONOMIC, RELIGIOUS AND SOCIAL BOOM BROUGHT BY THE PILGRIMS’ WAY TO SANTIAGO DURING THE
MIDDLE AGES SHAPED THE REGION’S TOWNS AND CITIES AND ALSO ITS ROADS. LOCATIONS SUCH AS PAMPLONA,PUENTE LA REINA OR ESTELLA-LIZARRA GREW ALONGSIDE THE WAY.
The Collegiate Church of Orreaga/Roncesvalles, the church of San Saturnino in Pamplona, the Romanesque brid-ge of Puente la Reina or the church of the Holy Sepulchre in Torres del Río would not exist were it not for theconstant influx of artisans and artists who spread the latest European trends throughout the Pilgrims’ Way toSantiago during the Middle Ages. Navarre’s extensive road network makes it easy to visit any of these historicalmedieval landmarks along the four Jacobean routes that cross the region.
French Route
It enters Navarre throughLuzaide/Valcarlos and it is the mostimportant route in number of pil-grims. It crosses the region diago-nally, passing Pamplona and exitingat Viana towards Logroño.
Sangüesa
Tudela
Cortes
Castejón
Monreal
Pamplona
Elizondo
Estella-Lizarra
Luzaide/Valcarlos
Orreaga/Roncesvalles
Viana
Puentela Reina
Pilgrim’s Way along the EbroPilgrim’s Waythrough Baztan
French RouteFrench Route(Aragonese way)
Introduction to the Pilgrim’s way5
Pilgrim’s Way along the Ebro
The pilgrims that came from theMediterranean walked along the RiverEbro. They entered Navarre in Cortes,crossed Tudela and left throughCastejón.
Pilgrim’s Way through Baztan
A secondary route for crossing thePyrenees which follows an ancientRoman road going to Pamplona.
French Route (Aragonese way)
This is actually the Somport branch ofthe French Route which enters the regionon the east and joins the main route inPuente la Reina.
Luzaide/ValcarlosPamplona
The gate of the Way
THE FRENCH ROUTE
THE PILGRIMS’ WAY TO SANTIAGO IN NAVARRE
BEGINS ON THE NORTHERN SLOPES OF THE PYRENEAN
MOUNTAINS, AT LUZAIDE/VALCARLOS. AFTER
CROSSING THE PYRENEES IT ARRIVES AT THE
COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ORREAGA/RONCESVALLES.
Ludaide/ValcarlosThe gate of the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Spain islocated on the northern face of the Pyrenees. Its name(Valle de Carlos) alludes to emperor Charlemagne, whocamped in this valley on his return to France while hisrearguard was attacked at Orreaga/Roncesvalles, a bat-
tle made famous by theFrench poem La Chanson
de Roland. The parishchurch is dedicated to
Saint James.
Orreaga/RoncesvallesThe chanson de geste "La chanson de Roland" hasmade the name of this small Navarrese town famous sovisitors are usually amazed to discover that the magni-ficent monumental ensemble has less than twentyinhabitants.Although it is not the first Spanish town on thePilgrims’ Way to Santiago, Roncesvalles has become thestarting point for thousands of pilgrims. Every afterno-on, particularly in the summer, hundreds of pilgrimsarrive by bus to begin their long march on the next day.The late pilgrims’ mass becomes a poignant multina-tional celebration, whose eager participants are soon tofulfil their dream. The number of pilgrims that passthrough Orreaga/Roncesvalles increases every year andis already above forty thousand.
Luzaide/Valcarlos
Orreaga/Roncesvalles
The chapels ofSancti Spiritusand SaintJames, alsoknown as thePilgrims’Chapel
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre6
Orreaga/Roncesvalles has been a place to restafter crossing the Pyrenees since the MiddleAges. It was founded in 1127 to look after thepilgrims going to or coming from Saint James.Its gothic church is one of the first construc-tions in this style in the Iberian peninsula andevinces a strong French influence. Inside thereis a gothic carving of the Virgin dating back tothe 14th century that receives widespreaddevotion throughout the area. The CollegiateChurch and its cloister are open to visitors,who can admire a collection of small chests,carvings, paintings and reliquaries, as well as"Charlemagne’s chessboard", a gothic 14thcentury gold, silver and enamel reliquary.
Chapel of Sancti Spiritusor "Charlemagne’s silo"
The battle of RoncesvallesOn 15 August 778, Charlemagne’s troops werereturning to France after fighting inZaragoza and attacking Pamplona. The mainbody of the army crossed the Pyreneeswithout any problem through Ibañeta, andcamped in the late afternoon at what todayis Luzaide/Valcarlos. Roland, count of theBreton March, led the rearguard, which wasattacked and practically annihilated atRoncesvalles. This historical incident wastransformed three centuries later into theChanson de Roland, a chanson de geste thatmagnified the events to the utmost andwhich was sung throughout Europe. Theattackers were turned into four hundredthousands Saracens and Roland intoCharlemagne’s own nephew. This epic poemand other works related to the battle arerecited every 15 August in the morning atthe chapel of Saint James. Every corner ofOrreaga/Roncesvalles has legendary referen-ces to this chanson, such as the reliquarywhich is considered Charlemagne’s chessboard or the chapel of the Sancti Spirituswhere the twelve Peers of France who diedin the battle are purportedly buried.
Illustrative stained glass window depictingthe battle of Las Navas de Tolosa
Charlemagne’s chess board
View of the Collegiate Church
Sepulchre ofSancho VII
Sepulchre of Sancho el FuerteNavarrese king Sancho VII the Strong built the church and provided it with ampleendowments. In homage, his remains rest in Orreaga/Roncesvalles. The dimensions ofthe tomb are particularly surprising as the real-size figure shows that he was 2.23metres tall.
The Royal CollegiateChurch of Santa María
French Rout7
Considered the oldest construction inOrreaga/Roncesvalles, it dates back to the12th century. Pilgrims were buried there formany centuries. The nearby chapel of SaintJames, also known as the Pilgrims’ Chapel,was built in the gothic style.
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre8
Luzaide/ValcarlosPamplona
In the shade of the forestsAFTER ORREAGA/RONCESVALLES, THE PILGRIM
WALKS AWAY FROM THE PYRENEES DESCENDING
TOWARD PAMPLONA, ENJOYING THE COOL SHADE OF
THE ABUNDANT TRESS THAT THEY WILL LATER SORELY
MISS ON THE BARE PLAINS OF CASTILE.
Auritz/Burguete and Aurizberri/EspinalAfter leaving Orreaga/Roncesvalles we arrive atAuritz/Burguete, with its typical houses with steep four-gabled roofs and runnels in the streets, denoting the tow-n’s abundant rain- and snowfall during the wintermonths. The town is built along the main road —the N-135— and, among its religious architecture, the church ofSan Nicolás is particularly noteworthy. The building datesback to the 16th century but it has been extensively reno-vated since then. The main altar piece was destroyedduring a fire in 1862, however, the parish regained a newone recently. The third significant location in the area isanother road town, Aurizberri/Espinal, with beautifulhouses, so typical of the Route.
ZubiriThe capital of the Esteríbar Valley is the most highlypopulated town along the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiagonorth of Pamplona. The urban layout has been changedrecently, although it still maintains its rectangular shapearound the main street, as is habitual in towns crossedby the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago. Its name comes fromBasque and means "village of the bridge", alluding tothe medieval bridge that pilgrims cross as they enter thetown. There already was a bridge there in 1097, and itsorigins may well date back to Roman times, althoughthe current bridge is from the 14th century and hasbeen reconstructed on several occasions.
The bridge is known as the "Bridge of Rabies" as tradi-tion has it that if domestic animals walked around itsmain pillar three times, they were cured of or becameimmune to this disease. Farmers used to take their ani-mals there until well into the 20th century. Accordingto tradition, the pillar’s properties emanate from theremains of Santa Quiteria, who was buried under thebridge. A reliquary that was found during one of thebridge’s renovations was taken to Burlada and today iskept in the parish church of San Juan Bautista.
Auritz/Burguete
Aurizberri/Espinal
Zubiri
Larrasoaña
Trinidadde Arre
Pilgrims in Auritz/Burguete
French Rout9
LarrasoañaThe town grew around the monastery of San Agustín,now gone. This is a habitual resting place for pilgrimsbefore going on to Pamplona. At one time it had up tothree pilgrims’ hospitals and today it is still a major res-ting place for pilgrims before they undertake the stretchto the capital of Navarre. Across from the CouncilHouse and the pilgrims’ hostel is the house of SantiagoZubiri, who has welcomed pilgrims for many decades;he has numerous Jacobean mementos on the rebirth ofthe Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in the 20th century, sentto him from around the world.
Trinidad de ArreA lovely ensemble along the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago inNavarre is that consisting of the Trinidad de Arre, the brid-ge over the Ultzama and the nearby fulling house of Villava.The Trinidad was a hospital, hospice and basilica and todayagain welcomes pilgrims in a nearby building. The churchmaintains its Romanesque east end from the first half of the13th century. The bridge over the Ultzama has been rebuilton several occasions. The current bridge has six segmentalarches and was built in the 13th century. The fulling housede Villava in the river park of the Arga and Ultzama rivershas been recently converted into a museum.
Trinidad de Arre
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre10
Luzaide/ValcarlosPamplona
Meeting the cityFROM BURLADA, THE PILGRIM CAN MAKE OUT THE
FIRST LARGE CITY ON THE ROUTE. PAMPLONA GREW
ALONGSIDE THE PILGRIMS’ WAY AND, WITH THE
RESURGENCE OF PILGRIMAGES, ITS BUSY STREETS ARE
AGAIN DOTTED BY THE SILENT FIGURES OF PILGRIMS.
PamplonaFounded by the Roman general Pompey on the Basquevillage of Iruña, the town turned out to be the seed ofwhat would become the Kingdom of Navarre. During theMiddle Ages it encompassed the population settling alongthe Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago and three fortified towns orquarters were formed, which were united in the 15th cen-tury. The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago enters the city’s historicalquarter through the old city walls at the Gate of Franceand crosses the town of Navarrería. At the intersection ofthe three towns rises the 18th century façade of the TownHall, where the traditional rocket is launched to announ-
ce the beginning of the feast of San Fermín. From there,the Route continues along San Saturnino and Mayor stre-ets, around which the city’s commercial section develo-ped. After crossing the parks of La Taconera and Vueltadel Castillo, the latter which surrounds the Citadel, theWay leaves the city on the south. A visit to Pamplonawould be incomplete if one only follows the Jacobeanroute. The historical ensemble is completed with theCathedral, the Museum of Navarre and the church of SanNicolás, among other buildings. It is also worth one’swhile to stroll about the Plaza del Castillo, with its nume-rous terraces and cafés from which to contemplate the cit-y’s life going by. The neighbouring streets of Estafeta andSan Nicolás teem with typical tapas bars.
Façade of the Town HallCaballo Blanco, Navarrería s quarter
French Rout11
The city’s original core, the Navarrería, grewnext to the Jacobean route, as did the townsof San Cernin —inhabited by Frankish mer-chants— and San Nicolás. Continuous con-flicts between the three fortified quartersled King Charles III of Navarre to unite theminto a single city in 1423. The Town Hall wasbuilt at the intersection of the three towns.
The quarters
Very little remains of the original Romanesquechurch, although there are some capitals whichcan still be seen at the entry of the cathedralmuseum. Visitors are often surprised by thecontrast between its neoclassical façade andits gothic interior. A very thorough restoration
carried out in the late 20th century hasbrought out its paintings and other works ofart. Of particular interest is the gothic tomb ofCharles III and his wife Leonor, king and queenof Navarre, as well as the cloister, consideredone of the best in Spanish gothic architecture.
The Cathedral
Ciudadela
Catedral
Ayuntamiento
Iglesia deSan Saturnino
Universidadde Navarra
Puente de laMagdalena
After the three towns were united, the inte-rior walls were torn down and the outsidewalls were reinforced. A fortress was alsobuilt near today’s Plaza del Castillo. The 16thcentury Citadel replaced this fortress andbecame the city’s main means of defenceuntil the end of the 19th century. Today, mostof the enclosure is still standing, offeringsome lovely walks along the walls, particu-larly the one running down the back of theCathedral.
The walls
Citadel of Pamplona
Cloister of the Cathedral
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre12
PamplonaViana
CrossroadsAFTER CROSSING THE MOUNTAIN PASS OF EL
PERDÓN, PILGRIMS APPROACH PUENTE LA REINA TO
CROSS THE RIVER ARGA. HERE THEY MEET THE
PILGRIMS WHO HAVE ENTERED SPAIN THROUGH
SOMPORT AND FOLLOWED THE ARAGONESE WAY OF
THE FRENCH ROUTE.
Cizur MenorAs pilgrims arrive from the University road, they canobserve on the left the remains of one of the main pro-perties of the Order of Malta in Navarre. Of the com-plex built in the early 13th century a tower and achurch, which were restored during the late 20th cen-tury, still stand. The Order’s property was a hospital forpilgrims for several centuries. The church can be visi-ted in the summer and across from it there is a pilgri-m’s hostel tended by the brothers of St. John.
El PerdónThe El Perdón mountain pass separated the PamplonaBasin from Valdizarbe. There is a monument dedicatedto pilgrims at the point where the Pilgrims’ Way cros-ses the pass between the turbines of a wind farm. Thework represents a group of pilgrims guided by theMilky Way and, in just a few years has, become one ofthe most famous landmarks on the Jacobean Route. Itcan be reached along a road that runs east from themain road at the summit.
Pamplona
CizurMenor
Alto de El Perdón
Puentela Reina
Pilgrims on bicycle next to the pilgrims’ monument on El Perdón mountain pass
French Rout13
Puente la ReinaThe capital of Valdizarbe is a significant landmark on theJacobean Route, as it was the point where the pilgrimswho came directly from France via Orreaga/Roncesvalles,and those who came from Aragon, met to cross the riverArga on the bridge after which the town is named. Today,Puente la Reina (Queen’s Bridge) is a peaceful town, nolonger plagued by heavy traffic and rapidly expandingthanks to the new Autovía del Camino motorway. Its oldquarter still preserves the typical structure of the townsbuilt along the Way, which runs down the Calle Mayor. The street is dotted with interesting sites, such as thechurch of The Crucifix, with a Romanesque nave, and agothic nave which was built later to house a curious imageof Christ on a Y-shaped crossed donated by German pil-grims in the Middle Ages. Half way down the street is thechurch of Saint James, of Romanesque origin, which hasa magnificent 12th century portal. Inside, the famous
gothic carving of Saint James "beltza"(Black in the Basque language). Finally,before reaching the Romanesque bridge,we come across the church of Saint Peter.
Its construction was probably ordered in the 11thcentury by queen Mayor, wife of Sancho III ofNavarre, and it is one of the best existing examplesof the Romanesque style. In the middle of the bridgethere was a niche holding a statue of the Virgin Mary until last centurywhen it was moved to the church of San Pedro. A legend around thissculpture alludes to the Txori (little bird, in the Basque language).According to this legend, a small bird would come and clean the Virgin’sface with its beak at regular intervals and its visits were profusely cele-brated by the town as this was considered a good omen.
The Romanesque bridge
Puente la Reina
Carving of Saint James "beltza"
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre14
PamplonaViana
The Roman RouteSOME STRETCHES OF THE PILGRIMS’ WAY TO SANTIAGO
BETWEEN PUENTE LA REINA AND ESTELLA-LIZARRA
RUN ALONG AN ANCIENT ROMAN ROAD WHOSE REMAINS
CAN STILL BE SEEN IN THE TOWN OF CIRAUQUI.
CirauquiWith barely 500 inhabitants, the fortified town ofCirauqui is one of the landmarks of the Pilgrims’ Wayto Santiago in Navarre. Perching atop a hill, it can beseen from the motorway. It owes its fame to the Romanbridge and the Roman road that skirts the town alongits western side.Some pilgrims mistake this road with the Roman routethat joined Bordeaux and Astorga which was usedduring the first pilgrimages. The Pilgrims’ Way toSantiago was modified in the 11th century and adoptedthe new route, running south from Pamplona andmoving away from the main Roman road. The remainsof Cirauqui are therefore part of a secondary Romanroad which can be seen at different points along thePilgrims’ Way until Estella-Lizarra. The robust bridgecrosses a ravine just after Cirauqui, before the Routecrosses the motorway. It maintains its Roman layoutalthough it was modified in the Middle Ages.The visit to the Roman remains should be completedwith a tour of the town, which is built in concentric cir-cles culminating at the top with the church of SanRomán, where a Roman altar stone is kept. This 12thcentury Romanesque church is related to the churchesof San Pedro de la Rúa in Estella-Lizarra and of SaintJames in Puente la Reina. Their coincidence can beobserved in the Romanesque portals of the three chur-
Puente la Reina
Cirauqui
Lorca
Villatuerta
Roman road in Cirauqui
Portal of the church of San Román in Cirauqui
French Rout15
ches, that show the flourishing art of the area duringthe Jacobean Route’s peak period.The town also has a Romanesque church dedicated toSaint Catherine, built in the early 13th century andexpanded in the 16th century.
LorcaThe Council of Lorca belongs to the municipality of Yerriand, although its population is barely one hundred, itsname has been associated with the Pilgrims’ Way toSantiago since the 12th century, as it appears in theCodex Calixtinus. This is a book written by the Frenchclergyman Aymeric Picaud which, in its fifth section,includes a guide for pilgrims, considered the first guideof the Pilgrim’s Way to be published as well as the firsttravel guide in history.Unfortunately, the author must not have had very goodexperiences in Navarre and he writes about its landsand its people with visceral hatred. About Lorca hementions the bridge over the river Salado, built withinthe municipality and still standing today, which maywell have belonged to the Roman road from Cirauquito Estella-Lizarra.Lorca also has an interesting late rural Romanesque buil-ding, the church of San Salvador, located on the calleMayor which follows the Jacobean Route.
VillatuertaThis town is the anteroom of Estella-Lizarra, and it isgrowing rapidly because of its nearness to the motor-way and to the main town. It offers pilgrims the robustchurch of the Assumption, with its tower and belfrybuilt around 1200. Villatuerta also has a medievalRomanesque bridge crossing the river Iranzu, whichdivides the town in half.
Bridge over the river Salado in LorcaChurch of the Assumption in Villatuerta
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre16
PamplonaViana
Estella-LizarraTHE CITY, FOUNDED BY THE KING OF PAMPLONA
SANCHO RAMÍREZ HALF WAY BETWEEN PUENTE LA
REINA AND LOS ARCOS, SHARED ITS HEYDAY WITH
THAT OF THE JACOBEAN ROUTE AND TODAY MAINTAINS
A LARGE PART OF ITS MEDIEVAL MONUMENTS.
The capital of the district of the same name was builtfor and because of the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago. Theprofusion of monuments in its old quarter and theirexcellent state of conservation make the city one of themost notable monumental ensembles in Navarre.
Estella-Lizarra was built on a primitive village calledLizarra and gradually developed along the rúa de lasTiendas (street of shops), today San Nicolás, on theWay to Santiago. The town grew and the quarters ofSan Miguel, San Juan and El Arenal had become con-solidated by the end of the 12th century, defining alayout that has generally remained the same since then.The list of the town’s artistic landmarks is endless andthe best way to get an idea of what it has to offer is tostroll through its streets and squares, although a visit tosome of its monuments is a must.
Palace of the Kings of Navarre
French Rout17
We find this late Romanesque palace next tothe Plaza de San Martín, the town’s mainsquare where the Fuente de los Chorros islocated. It is a unique, historic building, theonly example of civil Romanesque architec-ture in Navarre. It was built in the 12th cen-tury and its main façade has a porticoedgallery opening onto the old Street ofPilgrims. The left column depicts the fightbetween Roland and the Muslim giantFerragut, according to the legends arisingfrom the Chanson de Roland whose originlies in Orreaga/Roncesvalles. The buildingcurrently houses the Gustavo de Maeztumuseum, a permanent exhibition of thelegacy of the painter from Vitoria, as well astemporary exhibitions.
Palace of the Kingsof Navarre Located on a hill opposite the Palace of
the Kings of Navarre, the church is acces-sed via a staircase that takes us to its 13thcentury portal, extensively decorated withplant, geometric and figurative motifs. Thechurch’s east end dates back to the late12th century but its most outstanding fea-ture is the cloister which, although par-tially destroyed during the 16th century,still preserves its north and west galleries,built around 1170. Tradition has it that thetomb of a Greek bishop who was carryinga reliquary of Saint Andrew to Santiagowas found here. The bishop, tired and ill,died anonymously in Estella-Lizarra until,due to a miracle, his identity was discove-red, as well as that of the object hecarried, which remained in Estella-Lizarra.
San Pedro de la Rúa
Our tour of the city should not miss theLawcourts, on the Plaza de San Martín. Thisis an 18th century building that was theTown Hall at one point. Other palaces dotthe city, such as the house of Fray Diego orof San Cristóbal, currently the House ofCulture, and the 16th century palace of theEguía. Among the churches, that of the HolySepulchre is the first temple found by pil-grims as they arrive in Estella-Lizarra. Alsoworth mentioning are the church of SantaMaría Jus del Castillo, of Romanesque ori-gin, the churches of San Miguel, Our Lady ofRocamador, Our Lady of El Puy and SanPedro de Lizarra, and the town’s convents.
Monumental townN Iglesia de
Sta. Mª Jus del Castillo
Iglesia delSanto Sepulcro
Iglesia de SanPedro de la Rúa
Palacio de losReyes de Navarra
Palacio deJusticia
Iglesia de San Miguel
Iglesia de Ntra.Sra. del Puy
Iglesia de SanPedro de Lizarra Iglesia de
San Juan
Casa Fray Diego
San Pedro de la Rúa
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre18
PamplonaViana
The first hospitalfor pilgrimsBEFORE ESTELLA-LIZARRA WAS FOUNDED, THE KINGS
OF PAMPLONA REINFORCED THE CURRENT ROUTE SO IT
WOULD BE USED BY PILGRIMS AND, IN THE MID 11TH
CENTURY THE FIRST HOSPITAL FOR PILGRIMS IN THE
KINGDOM WAS FOUNDED IN IRATXE.
IratxeThe first news of this monastery dates back to the year958. The efforts of the kings of Pamplona to reinfor-ce this particular route to Compostela helped themonastery of Irache blossom. The location was chosen for a pilgrims’ hospital in the 11th century.This was forty years before the foundation of Estella-Lizarra. Fortunately, the appearance of the town didnot result in a loss of the monastery’s power —on thecontrary, they fed on each other’s fame.From this medieval period the church, from the mid12th century, remains. The Plateresque cloister, stillstanding today, was built in the 16th century. A cen-tury later, another cloister was built on the ensemble-’s western end together with a Herrerian tower. Thebuilding was restored during the mid 20th centuryand is scheduled for further renovation soon, when itwill be transformed into a National Parador.Today, Iratxe is an obligatory stop for pilgrims, but foranother reason. There, a bodega offers pilgrims afountain with two spouts, one gushing water and theother wine, so that they can replenish their strengthbefore taking on one of the first stretches under thepitiless sun without the protection of forests.
MonjardínIts name hypothetically derives from "Mons Grasini" or"Mons Gasreani", which translates as Mount García.This may be due to the significance that the castle at thetop of this hill had for Sancho Garcés, first king ofPamplona. At the time, the fortress, named after SanEsteban de Deyo, formed part of a Muslim network ofcastles and it was this king who conquered it, incorpo-rating it into his kingdom. He converted it to become aroyal pantheon where he chose to be buried —proof ofthe importance it had for him. The castle has beenrecently restored and its walls consolidated to ensurethat this historical landmark is not lost.
Los ArcosThe town’s calle Mayor is also the Pilgrims’ Way toSantiago, which leaves the town at the porticoed Plazade Santa María, of irregular shape. Next to this squareis the church of the same name, built in various archi-tectural styles from 12th century Romanesque to 18thcentury baroque. The interior displays notable renais-sance decorations and a 15th century gothic cloister.Between the church and the river Odrón is the Gate ofCastile, a triumphal arch built in the 17th century.Through it, the pilgrims walk towards Viana, the lasttown before leaving Navarre.
Los Arcos
Monasteriode Iratxe
Estella-Lizarra
Villamayor de Monjardín
Ayegui
French Rout19
Monastery of IratxeCastle of Villamayor de MonjardínChurch of Santa María in Los Arcos
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre20
PamplonaViana
The trail of the Holy SepulchreHIDDEN BY THE IRREGULAR URBAN LAYOUT OF
TORRES DEL RÍO, THE OCTAGONAL CHURCH OF THE
HOLY SEPULCHRE —AN EXCEPTION IN NAVARRESE
ROMANESQUE AND, IN FACT, IN THE WHOLE OF THE
PILGRIMS’ WAY TO SANTIAGO— SURPRISES PILGRIMS,FORCING THEM TO STOP IN THEIR TRACKS AND PAY AN
UNAVOIDABLE VISIT.
Torres del RíoBefore the pilgrims leave Navarre, they find one of themost surprising and noteworthy pieces of NavarreseRomanesque architectures. The church of the HolySepulchre is located in the lower part of the town and,since it does not give onto any square, visitors happenupon it suddenly, without any prior warning. Its particularity resides in its octagonal shape, similarto that of Eunate and Sancti Spiritus inOrreaga/Roncesvalles. There are several theories aboutits origins but it was most likely built by the Order ofthe Holy Sepulchre during the last decades of the 12thcentury. Its purpose as cemetery probably makes thischurch an homage to the main tomb of Christianity,the circular building of the Holy Sepulchre inJerusalem. The church of Torres del Río has an eight-sided lanternand an adjoining tower. Inside the dome, the ribs criss-cross to form a star, an influence and reminder of theworks of the Caliphate of Cordoba. The church’s capi-tals are richly decorated and there is a 13th centurycarving of Christ on the Cross.
Interior dome of the church of the Holy Sepulchre
Exterior view of the church
Torres del Río
Viana
Embalse delas Cañas
French Rout21
Las Cañas reservoirThe Las Cañas marsh, also known as the Salobre, is oneof the largest in Navarre. Its proximity to the river Ebromakes it a major roosting place for a wide variety ofbirds. There is a bird-watching observatory close to thePilgrims’ Way, allowing visitors to enjoy this naturalarea as they observe birds in their environmentthrough eyeglasses and telescopes.
VianaTo strengthen the route, the kings of Navarre made aneffort to help the towns located on the Pilgrims’ Way toSantiago. Viana received even more support, since itwas on the border between the kingdoms of Navarreand Castile, defined by the Ebro. The town is on top ofa hill and a large part of its defensive walls is still inplace. The streets are narrow and the houses elongated,to better take advantage of the enclosure. Inside thetown there is the parish church of Saint Peter on the
western side, and that of Saint Mary to the north. Thelatter was built in the 12th century, with extensivereforms over time. Of particular interest is the tower,the south portal and a complete stone altar piece datingback to the 16th century. The late 17th century baroqueTown Hall is located on the same square, the Plaza delos Fueros, opposite the church.
Church of Saint Mary of Viana
Las Cañas reservoir
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre22
YesaPuente la Reina
The pantheon of theKingdom of NavarreTHE BRANCH OF THE PILGRIMS’ WAY TO SANTIAGO
COMING FROM ARAGON PASSES CLOSE BY THE CASTLE
OF JAVIER, WHERE THE PATRON SAINT OF NAVARRE
WAS BORN, AND BY THE MONASTERY OF LEYRE,HISTORICAL LANDMARK AND ROYAL PANTHEON.
YesaThe pilgrims who entered Navarre walked along theriver Aragon to Sangüesa. After the construction of theYesa reservoir in the 20th century, there are twooptions to reach Sangüesa: the north route, passingthrough Leyre, Yesa and Javier, and the south route,through Ruesta and Undués de Lerda.
San Salvador de LeyreThere are references to this emblematicmonastery and royal pantheon dating
back to the 9th century, when it was already fairly wellknown. Of particular interest are its apses and crypt,the monastery’s primitive structures. Its importance isnot only due to its antiquity but also to the influencethat San Salvador de Leire has had throughout its his-tory. Its greatest splendour was in the early 11th cen-tury, when its power was equal to that of the Cathedralof Pamplona. It was also —and still is— a royal panthe-on and the church holds the remains of the first kingsof Navarre. The monastery is associated to a curiouslegend to explain eternity, according to which an abbot,Virila, spent three hundred years in ecstasy listening to
a nightingale without realising it.
Monastery ofLeyre
Javier
Yesa
Monasteriode Leyre
THE FRENCH ROUTE (ARAGONESE WAY)
El Camino Francés vía aragonesa23
JavierA branch of the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago passes by thecastle of Javier. This fortress is a key landmark in thehistory of Navarre, the birthplace of Saint FrancisXavier —one of the most illustrious Navarrese, whotravelled the world as missionary and is today thepatron saint of the region. For defensive purposes, thefortress was built close to the border between the king-doms of Navarre and Aragon. In the 16th century,when Navarre lost its independence, the castle was par-tially destroyed but successive restorations during the20th century gave it back its original structure.Together with the nearby monastery of Leire and thetown of Sangüesa, the castle is part of an almost obli-gatory route in Navarre. Today it holds a museum thatexplains the history of the fortress and presents thefigure of Saint Francis Xavier. Many pilgrims arrive atthe castle on foot, although not all of them are on theirway to Santiago. Many Navarrese walk over one hun-dred kilometres to Javier every year on a pilgrimageknown as the "javieradas" to honour their patron saint.
The Lumbier GorgeAfter leaving Sangüesa, a branch of the Pilgrims’ Wayto Santiago detours towards Lumbier along the riverIrati. This route takes advantage of an old railway line.The natural beauty of the detour is particularly outs-tanding in a small canyon carved by the Irati into theLeire mountains. The gorge’s microclimate provides ahabitat for numerous plant and animal species, inclu-ding colonies of Griffon vultures, Bearded vultures andGolden eagles. The path along the gorge is about oneand a half kilometres long and includes a couple oftunnels, originally excavated for the railway.
Castle of Javier
Lumbier Gorge
The Javieradas bring together thousands of pilgrims every year
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre
YesaPuente la Reina
SangüesaTHE PILGRIMS ARRIVING IN NAVARRE FROM JACA
NEEDED A MAJOR PLACE TO REST AND TRADE.SANGÜESA WAS FOUNDED IN THE EARLY 12TH
CENTURY TO HELP DEVELOP THE PILGRIMS’ WAY TO
SANTIAGO.
The kings of Navarre decisively supported the pilgrims’route between Pamplona and Viana but did not forgetto reinforce the way travelled by pilgrims who cameinto Navarre from Jaca. Thus, Sangüesa was founded in1122 on the banks of the river Aragon to help developthe Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago, not only as a pilgrims’route but also as a major trading route which it remai-ned for centuries. The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago mar-ked the development of the town around its main stre-et, the Calle Mayor, with monuments that grew inquantity and quality, such as the church of Saint James,outstanding due to the sculpture of the Apostle on itsportal. The origins of Sangüesa date back to what today isRocaforte, two kilometres from the town. Its locationsomewhat distanced from the main road prompted thecreation of a new quarter next to the river Aragon,which grew rapidly to become much larger than theoriginal town.
Church of Santa María
Carving of the Apostle in the church of Saint James
24
Convento de San Francisco
Palacio delPríncipe de Viana
Palacio de Ongay-Vallesantoro(CASA DE CULTURA)
Ayuntamiento
Iglesia de Santa María
Iglesia de San Salvador
Iglesia de Santiago
Puente metálico
The current location of Sangüesa is due tothe bridge built in the late 11th century toimprove communications between the king-doms of Pamplona and Aragon. The river’smajor floods required its reconstructionseveral times until, at the end of the 19thcentury, it was decided to remove the cen-tral arches and the current metal bridge wasbuilt.
The bridge
Next to the bridge we find the town’s archi-tectural masterpiece, built in the 12th cen-tury. The three Romanesque apses on theeast end are from this period. In the late12th century and early 13th century thenaves, south portal and gothic octagonaltower were built. The richly-decorated portalis the church’s masterwork. The portal’scentral piece depicts the Final Judgement,decorated with statues that serve ascolumns. From left to right they representMary Magdalene; Mary, mother of Christ, andMary, mother of Saint James. On the rightthere are, Saint Paul, Saint Peter and Judashanging by the neck. The work is roundedoff by an image of Christ in Majesty and theapostles.
Church of Santa María
The kings of Navarre used to stay in the cityfor stretches of time in the 13th and the 15thcenturies. They occupied the palace of thePrince of Viana, of which today the mainbody and two crenellated towers on eitherside are still standing. During the last deca-des of the 16th century the south wing wastorn down to build the Town Hall.
Palace-castle of thePrince of Viana
It is quite possible that Saint Francis of Assisislept in Rocaforte when returning from hispilgrimage to Compostela in 1213. Years later,the convent church of San Francisco was builtin Sangüesa. It is a single-nave building witha 16th century stone vault. The convent wasbuilt in the 14th century and includes a clois-ter with a gothic arcade.
Convent of Saint Francisof Assisi
Metal bridge in Sangüesa
Palace of the Prince of Viana
Convent of San Francisco
El Camino Francés vía aragonesa25
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre26
YesaPuente la Reina
Santa María de EunateAFTER LEAVING SANGÜESA AND MONREAL, THE
PILGRIMS HEAD TOWARDS PUENTE LA REINA TO
CROSS THE RIVER ARGA. A FEW KILOMETRES BEFORE
REACHING THIS TOWN, THEY COME UPON ONE OF THE
MOST CURIOUS JACOBEAN LANDMARKS IN NAVARRE.
Performance of the Mystery of Obanos
Eunate
Sangüesa
Puentela Reina
Shrine of EunateLovely and solitary in the fields of the ValdizarbeValley, the shrine of Santa María de Eunate leaves novisitor indifferent. Apart from recent theories thatlink it to knights templar and esoteric practices, whatis known is that it was built by a local brotherhood inthe second half of the 12th century, most likely as afuneral chapel. Its curious octagonal layout resem-bles that of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem, whichwas not strange at the time the church was built.Unlike the church of the Holy Sepulchre of Torresdel Río, the octagonal shape both of the walls and ofthe cloister that surrounds the building, is quite irre-gular. Several arches of the porticoed cloister, todayroofless, have been rebuilt at different times in diffe-rent styles.Its original name, Onate or Unate, probably comesfrom the Basque language meaning something like"the good door", although many have translated it as"one-hundred doors", assuming it refers to the arca-de surrounding the building. As in the church of the Holy Sepulchre of Torres delRío, the vault shows a clear Muslim influence, witheight ribs that converge irregularly in the centrekeystone. The liturgical furniture was removed thelast time it was restored to allow visitors to betteradmire the beauty of this unique Romanesque cons-truction.
ObanosA walk around this town will unerringly take us to itsmain square, where the parish church de Saint Johnthe Baptist is located. Every year, during the last weekof July, this square hosts the Mystery of Obanos, anevent that is listed as a Feast of National TouristInterest. The show consists of a play in which many ofthe town’s inhabitants participate. It narrates thelegend of San Guillén and Santa Felicia. It tells of a pil-grim Felicia, sister of Guillén, Duke of Aquitaine, whodecided to settle along the Way to help pilgrims. Herbrother came looking for her to take her back homebut she refused and, blinded with rage, Guillén killedhis sister. Devastated by his deed, he went on the pil-grimage and stayed to live in a shrine near Obanos,praying in solitude and helping pilgrims and the poorfor the rest of his life.
El Camino Francés vía aragonesa27
Interior and exterior of Eunate
Square of Obanos
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre28
DantxarineaArre
Along the Roman RoadALTHOUGH MOST PILGRIMS ENTER NAVARRE
THROUGH LUZAIDE/VALCARLOS, THERE IS A
SECONDARY WAY THAT CROSSES THE BORDER WITH
FRANCE IN THE NORTH OF THE REGION AND COMES
DOWN NAVARRE’S GREENEST AREA TO JOIN THE
FRENCH ROUTE AT ARRE.
The main Jacobean routes in France meet at the smalltown of Ostabat, near the Spanish border, to cross thePyrenees from Saint Jean de Pied de Port. However, thereare other passes crossing from France into Navarre whichhave been used for centuries as trade routes and, to a les-ser extent, by pilgrims. This is the case of the BaztánRoute, which joins the French towns of Bayonne andPamona along a stretch of about one hundred kilometres;this is a smoother alternative to the way through Ibañetaand Orreaga/Roncesvalles. The pilgrims’ passage throughthis area is evident from the numerous parish churches,monasteries and shrines dedicated to the apostle SaintJames, in addition to documents that show the existenceof pilgrims’ hospitals in the area. The monastery and hos-pital of Santa María de Belate, on the mountain pass ofthe same name, provided shelter for the pilgrims that usedthe old Roman road of which there are numerousremains.
The routeThe way enters Navarre at Dantxarinea, from where thereis a steep climb to Urdazubi/Urdax, with a monastery thatstill provides its traditional shelter for pilgrims. From thistown, the pilgrims enter the Baztan Valley, which runsfrom north to south. The Roman road leads to the Belatepass, going by the monastery of Santa María de Belate.
The route continues relatively close to road N-121-A andjoins the French Route in the municipality of Arre.
BaztanThe Noble Valley and Township of Baztan is a historicmunicipality in northern Navarre, with numerous man-sions and palaces belonging to families that spawnedintrepid travellers who left their mark throughout theworld. Baztan is the largest municipality in Navarre andits peacefulness and green meadows make it an ideal placeto rest.
Santa María de BelateA smooth road marked from the summit of road NA-1210 at the Belate pass —dividing the Cantabrian andMediterranean basins— takes us to the monastery ofBelate. The 13th century building is at the foot of theJacobean route. For several centuries it welcomed the pil-grims who crossed the mountain pass, until the hospitalwas destroyed by fire in the 18th century. Today, part ofthe monastery and the shrine of Our Lady are still stan-ding.
Roman road in Belate
PILGRIM’S WAY THROUGH BAZTANDantxarinea
Elizondo
Santa Maríade Belate
Trinidadde Arre
La Ruta Jacobea de Baztan29
Monastery of Belate
View of the Valley from the Baztan Viewpoint
Jacobean signs in ArizkunTown Hall of Baztan
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre30
CortesCastejón
The Pilgrims’ Way toSantiago in the RiberaRegionTHE PILGRIMS THAT CROSSED THE MEDITERRANEAN BY SHIP ARRIVED AT
THE CATALAN COAST AND CONTINUED ON THEIR PILGRIMAGE FOLLOWING THE
RIVER EBRO TO THE BASILICA OF EL PILAR IN ZARAGOZA AND THEN ON TO
LOGROÑO WHERE THEY JOINED THE FRENCH ROUTE.
The Valley of the Ebro has always had natural roads,including some used by the Romans. Today there aretwo main routes along which the pilgrims enterNavarre close to the Ebro. The first is the Pilgrim’s Wayalong the Ebro, which follows the river from its mouthin the Mediterranean. The second is known as theCatalan Pilgrim’s Way which starts at the monastery ofMontserrat and joins the Pilgrim’s Way along the Ebroin Aragon.The Navarrese stretch of the Pilgrim’s Way along theEbro is relatively small, only about thirty kilometreslong. It enters the region at the town of Cortes, andthen runs parallel to the railway tracks to Ribaforadaand Tudela. From there, it continues along a naturalsetting of copses on the banks of the Ebro to Castejón,the municipality where the Way leaves Navarre. It con-tinues in La Rioja although very close to the borderwith Navarre, through the towns of Alfaro, Calahorraand Alcanadre until it reaches Logroño.
TudelaThe presence of Jacobean pilgrims in Tudela is docu-mented as far back as the 15th century. The pilgrimagetook time to become consolidated in this area as it didnot belong to the Kingdom of Pamplona until the 12th
century. It was in this century when the city’s architec-tural masterpiece, its Cathedral, was built on the town’sMain Mosque. A recent restoration of the church hasuncovered some very interesting polychromies andplasterworks, as well as sculptures and paintings. Thearchitectural ensemble is completed with a magnificentRomanesque cloister and the museum of the adjoiningDean’s Palace, making it well worth visiting Tudela.There are numerous other monuments in the city, suchas the 12th century Romanesque church of Saint MaryMagdalene and the church of San Nicolás, built in the12th century; it is mainly baroque, although it was ori-ginally Romanesque.
Imperial ChannelSix kilometres from the capital of the Ribera Region isthe Bocal de Tudela. This is the reservoir where theCanal Imperial is born. This major channel runs alongthe right bank of the Ebro through Navarre and Aragonproviding both irrigation and drinking water for thetowns it crosses. The planning of this engineering featbegan in 1515 and took two centuries to be completeddue to many vicissitudes and to insufficient budgets.The roads running along the banks of the channel wereused by Jacobean pilgrims between Zaragoza andTudela.
PILGRIM’S WAY ALONG THE EBROCastejón
Tudela
Cortes
La Ruta Jacobea del Ebro31
Castle of CortesJudgement Door of the Cathedral of Tudela
Cloister of the Cathedral of Tudela Monreal Tower
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre32
Thepilgrim
The pilgrim
What do I have to do?
Documents
DURING THE LAST FEW YEARS THERE HAS BEEN A
CONSTANT INCREASE IN THE NUMBER OF PILGRIMS
THAT GO TO SANTIAGO ON FOOT AND BY BICYCLE.BEFORE STARTING OFF ON A PILGRIMAGE IT IS
ADVISABLE TO OBTAIN SOME BASIC INFORMATION ON
PILGRIMAGES.
1- Choose the route There are many routes marked as the Pilgrims’ Way toSantiago. This brochure describes some of them. TheFrench Route is the most famous and popular but thereare also the Pilgrim’s Way along the Ebro, the Pilgrim’sWay through Baztan, the Northern Route or the SilverWay, among others.
2- Choose the meansOn foot or by bicycle is usually preferable to more exo-tic options such as on horseback or on donkeys, particu-larly because animals are not admitted in many shelters.
The Cathedral Chapter of Santiago issuesthe Compostela, a document that certifiesthat you have made the pilgrimage forreligious or spiritual reasons. To obtain ityou have to present your credential,stamped at a sufficient number of townsto prove that you have at least done thelast one hundred kilometres on foot ortwo hundred kilometres by bicycle.
This is a document issuedby the Catholic Churchthat accredits you as apilgrim. The bearer iswelcomed at traditionalshelters and hospicesalong the Pilgrims’ Way toSantiago.
The credential The Compostela
3- Choose the datesThe summer months coincide with many people’s holi-days and usually see the greatest traffic of pilgrims, sothat shelters are often overcrowded. In spring andautumn rain is more likely but you avoid the summerheat and overcrowding. Some years are considered Holyor Jubilee Years. These take place when the feast of SaintJames, 25 July, falls on a Sunday.
4- Prepare and planBefore you start off, obtain information on the route,begin to walk every day to get into shape and plan thestages of your pilgrimage. The Way fromLuzaide/Valcarlos can be done in about 29-31 stages, ofwhich six in Navarre. If you choose to go by bicycle, itwill take 7-11 days, depending on how fast you ride. Onfoot, you are advised to walk about 25 kilometres, prefe-rably in the morning, so you can rest and visit sights inthe afternoon.
The pilgrim33
Basic items For sleepingSleeping bag and amat, in case youneed to sleep onthe ground.
Pilgrim’s identificationScallop shell.
Mik
el S
anto
s “b
elat
z”
The rucksackThe weight should not bemore than one tenth of thepilgrim’s weight, and shouldnever exceed 9 kilos, so youwill have to leave many"essential" items at home.Do not forget:- Small towel.- Soap.- Water bottle.- Set of cutlery.- Toilet bag.- Pillowcase.- Credit cards and little cash.
FootwearSandals and trainers orhiking boots, makingsure these are not newand you feelcomfortable in them.
Essential clothes3 T-shirts. 2 pairs oftrousers. 3 sets ofunderwear.
In the summerCap, sunglasses andsun cream.
DocumentationID card orpassport, practicalguide and thepilgrim’scredential.
Montserrat
Valencia
Alicante
Sevilla
Cáceres
Madrid
Pamplona
Donostia/San
SebastiánBilbao/BilboSantander
Oviedo
León
Lugo
Zamora
Salamanca
Ávila
Toledo
Albacete
France
Portugal
AFRICA
Segovia
Valladolid
BurgosLogroño
Zaragoza Lleida
Santiago
AstorgaSahagún
The routes in Spain
French RouteFrench Route (Aragonese way)Pilgrim’s Way along the EbroPilgrim’s Way through BaztanCoastal Pilgrim’s WayPrimitive Pilgrim’s WaySilver WayCatalan Pilgrim’s WayMediterranean Pilgrim’s WayMadrid Pilgrim’s Way
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre34
FRANCE
ZARAGOZALA RIOJA
Yesa
Mº de Iratxe
Embalse de Las Cañas
a Logroño
NuestraSeñora de Eunate
Alto de El Perdón
Trinidad de Arre
Castillo de Javier
Sangüesa
Rocaforte
Yárnoz
Otano
Ezperun
GuerendiáinTiebas
Campanas
BiurrunObanos
Muruzábal
UtergaAzqueta
Villamayor de Monjardín
Cizur Menor
Zabaldika
Zuriain
Ezkirotz
Aurizberri/Espinal
Bizkarreta-Gerendiain
Lintzoain
N-135
N-135
N-138
NA-150
NA-231
NA-601
A-12
N-111
N-111
A-12
A-12
A-12
NA-134
A-12š9
NA-132-A
NA-120
NA-132NA-122
NA-129
NA-112
NA-234A-21
N-240
N-240
NA-132
NA-5410
AP-15
N-121
NA-140NA-172
Auritz/Burguete
Zariquiegui Burlada
Enériz
Salinas deIbargoiti
Monreal
Abínzano
Izco
Orreaga/Roncesvalles
Luzaide/Valcarlos
Zubiri
Larrasoaña
Pamplona
Úcar
Puente la Reina
Mañeru
Cirauqui
Lorca
VillatuertaEstella-Lizarra
Los Arcos
Torres del Río
Viana
The Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago in Navarre
LOCATION/PLACE 1* 2* ALTITUDE (m)
Sangüesa 0 0 400Izco 17,5 17,5 700Abínzano 2 19,5 700Salinas de Ibargoiti 7 26,5 700Monreal 2,5 29 555Yárnoz 4 33 520
LOCATION/PLACE 1* 2* ALTITUDE (m)
Otano 2 35 530Ezperun 2 37 540Guerendiáin 2 39 600Tiebas 4 43 575Campanas 2 45 520Biurrun 6 51 610
LOCATION/PLACE 1* 2* ALTITUDE (m)
Úcar 3,5 54,5 500Enériz 2 56,5 435Eunate 2,5 59 345Puente la Reina 4 63 345
(1*): distance from previous location.(2*): accumulated distance.
LOCATION/PLACE 1* 2* ALTITUDE (m)
Luzaide/Valcarlos 0 0 365Orreaga/Roncesvalles 9 9 950Auritz/Burguete 3 12 895Aurizberri/Espinal 3,5 15,5 870Bizkarreta-Gerendiain 5 20,5 780Lintzoain 2 22,5 760Zubiri 8 30,5 525Osteritz 1,5 32 530Ilarratz 1 33 540Ezkirotz 1 34 540Larrasoaña 2 36 495Zuriain 3,5 39,5 490Zabaldika 3,5 43 500Trinidad de Arre 1 44 420Villava 1 45 420Burlada 2 47 420
LOCATION/PLACE 1* 2* ALTITUDE (m)
Pamplona 4 51 446Cizur Menor 4 55 480Guenduláin 4,5 59,5 500Zariquiegui 2 61,5 625Uterga 5,5 67 495Muruzábal 1 68 444Obanos 4 72 412Puente la Reina 2,5 74,5 345Mañeru 4,5 79 455Cirauqui 3 82 495Lorca 5,5 87,5 480
LOCATION/PLACE 1* 2* ALTITUDE (m)
Villatuerta 2,5 92 440Estella-Lizarra 4 96 421Ayegui 2 98 494Azqueta 7 103 495Villamayor de Monjardín 2 105 675Los Arcos 12 117 445Torres del Río 8 125 475Viana 9 136 470
(1*): distance from previous location.(2*): accumulated distance.
French Route (passing through Aragon)
French Route
French Route
French Route (passing through Aragon)
Symbols
Motorway
National roads
Regional roadsDistrict roadsLocal ‘a’ roads
Villava
Published by: © Government of Navarre. Department of Cultura and Tourism-Príncipe de Viana Institution. Tourism Department. Tourism Marketing Service.Graphic design: Brandok. Printed by: Litografía Ipar. National Book Catalogue: NA 452-2016. C202
Ayegui
TOURIST OFFICESFRENCH ROUTEOrreaga/RoncesvallesANTIGUO MOLINO 31650 ORREAGA-RONCESVALLESTEL./FAX 948 760 [email protected]
PamplonaC/SAN SATURNINO 231001 PAMPLONATEL. 948 420 [email protected]
Estella-LizarraC/ SAN NICOLÁS, 1 31200 ESTELLA-LIZARRATEL. 948 556 301 FAX 948 552 [email protected]
FRENCH ROUTE (ARAGONESE WAY)SangüesaC/ MAYOR, 2 31400 SANGÜESATEL. 948 871 [email protected]
PILGRIM’S WAY THROUGH BAZTANBertizCENTRO DE TURISMO RURAL 31720 OIEREGITEL. 948 592 386 FAX 948 592 [email protected]
PILGRIM’S WAY ALONG THE EBROTudelaPLAZA DE LOS FUEROS 5-6 31500 TUDELATEL/FAX 948 414 [email protected]
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