The Oreck Manufacturing Company Oreck Edge - Upright...

Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field

The Oreck Manufacturing Company Oreck Edge - Upright Tune-Up & Service

Guide 02/26/2010

Compiled by Clark DeNoble

Increase Quality Through Interaction with the Field 1


Table of Contents Electrical Page 3 Tune-Up

Evaluate Page 4 Clean Page 4 Replace Page 5

Low Power/Sparks Pages 5 – 6 Wheels Grinding/Rattling/Worn Page 6 Part Replacement/Disassembly Sole Plate Page 7 Lens/Fascia/Top Cover Pages 7 - 8 Brushroll Page 8 Belt Page 9 Power Supply Page 9 Valve Assembly Pages 10 - 11 Valve Service Pages 11 – 13 Control Board Page 13 Motor Module Pages 14 –15 Motor Pages 15 – 16 Fan Housing Module Page 16 Outer Bag Pages 16 – 18 Grip Pages 19 – 20 Harness Pages 20 – 21 Lifter Pages 21 – 23 Troubleshooting Valve Stuck in Hose Position 3 Valve Stuck in Nozzle Position Pages 24 – 25 Nothing Works Pages 25 – 28 Everything Works But The Motor Page 28 Everything Works But The LED Lights Page 29 Features of the Edge 1. Electronic Motor Speed Control 2. Electronic Motor Stop – If the fan jams the motor will stop which save both the motor and the belt. 3. Mechanical nozzle lift prevents brushroll contact with the floor surface when the unit is in the accessory hose mode or locked upright and left running. 4. Electronic Suction Path Valve Control - When the hose is attached and the unit is upright and locked, the suction path is through the hose. When the unit is moved from the upright and locked position to the normal use position, the suction path automatically changes to through the power nozzle. If the hose isn’t installed then the path stays through the nozzle no matter the position of the unit.



Electrical

1. The fuse on the logic board is for fire safety, not to protect the board. 2. If the motor current increases and the fuse doesn’t blow, then the chip will

shutdown the motor. 3. If left plugged in the unit will return to the speed in use when it was turned off. If

unplugged then the speed will rev up to full speed. 4. On the power supply board the resistor marked will blow if the board goes bad. 5. If the LEDs are On but the unit doesn’t function, turn Off, unplug, wait 30 seconds

and plug it back in. Turn it On and the unit should work.

Increase Quality Through Interaction with the On/Off

Motor Line

Control/Triac 110-120VAC

Line

Neutral

Servo

Brown – On/OfYellow – Low Speed

h Speed 5

Black

Brown

Switch Whit

Red – 12 VDC

Fuse

Common - Brown 12VDC - White

White - Neutral

Hall Effect Sensor

B Not Used

lack – Line

12VDC - Black

f 5vdc 5vdc vdc

eBrown on the bottom White in the middle Black on top

Blue – GroundRed – Hig

Field 3

Handle Switch

High Speed Low Speed


Tune-Up

1. Evaluate a. Cord assembly and harness condition

i. Jacket free of holes especially at the entrance to the handle grip or nozzle housing

ii. Plug blades secure and straight b. Cord dump function

i. Holds in place while winding the cord c. Housing condition

i. Tells a lot about how the unit was treated by the user ii. Fascia fixed in place

d. Base/Sole plate assembly condition i. Normal wear ii. Edge brush condition iii. Microsweep condition iv. Rear wheel condition & function v. Front wheel condition & function

e. Bumper condition f. Outer bag condition g. Inner bag dock condition & function h. Dirt tube condition i. Collar condition j. Handle condition k. Switch condition & function l. Motor condition & function m. Brushroll condition & function n. Belt condition & function o. Light cover condition & light function p. Yoke condition & function q. Pivot detent r. Accessory valve condition & function s. Height adjuster condition & function

2. Clean

a. Check for clogging at the inlet of the pivot. b. Check the fan and fan housing for foreign objects. c. Clean the components:

i. WD40 to remove marks from cords and bumpers ii. Oreck Glass & Mirror Cleaner iii. Oreck Hospital Clean (Liquid only, not the aerosol) iv. Steam cleaning is an effective method of cleaning. v. Use soap (Joy, Ivory, Dawn) and water as the primary

cleaning ingredients. vi. Do not use Citrus-based cleaners (orange oil). They will

cause most plastic to become brittle.



3. Replace

a. Inner filter bag

4. Only when necessary - Low Power/Sparks - Commutator Polish a. It is not necessary to polish all commutators. Commutators in

pictures 1 & 2 have a gray film. This is graphite from the brushes and desirable since it acts as a lubricant. Picture 3 shows heat and 4 uneven wear. These two should be polished.

1 2 3 4

b. Hazardous conditions will exist during this step: i. Wear safety glasses, remove jewelry from hands, wrists and

neck (if dangling). Secure loose clothing and long hair. c. Another way to determine if polishing is necessary is to observe the

arcing characteristics of the function while in operation. d. Maximum Acceptable Arc – Continuous no greater than 1/16”

i. e. Commutators producing more than the maximum acceptable arc

should be polished. Brushes may have to be changed. f. Hazardous conditions will exist during this step:

i. Exposure to spinning components: brushroll, motor, belt, fan and exhaust debris.

ii. Wear safety glasses and remove jewelry from hands, wrists and neck (if dangling). Secure loose clothing and long hair.

iii. Exposure to lethal amperage: Keep hands away from terminals, wires and motor components

g. Lightly touch the commutator with the commutator cleaner.

Burnishing will happen quickly.

i.

h. Turn the commutator cleaner over and do the same for the belt drive shaft.



i. Turn the unit off and unplug from outlet.

5. Wheels Grinding/Rattling/Worn - Rear Wheel Service a. Remove hubcap – Insert flathead screwdriver blade into one of the

3 slots on the back of the wheel hub. Place the blade as shown in picture 1 and twist until hub tab has unhooked from the wheel hub picture 2, then push down. 1

i.

b. Remove wheel – Remove E clip and washer

i.

Washer E clip

c. Remove Axle – Remove 2 screws from the cord over-mold and the

yoke cover (Picture 1). Slide out the axle (Picture 2).

i.

1

Yoke Cover

2 Cord Over-mold

End of Tune-up section



Part Replacement/Disassembly (Reverse to Reassemble)

1. Sole Plate a. Extract 6 screws (#2 Phillips)

b. Remove Edge Brush – Find the round tab (Circled). With a punch and hammer knock out the edge brush

c. The edge brushes are marked left L and right R. Line up the tab with the sole plate hole and snap in place

2. Lens/Fascia/Top Cover a. To remove the fascia the lens must be removed and two screws

extracted. Pry the lens away at one end, bend it out so the end tab pops free (Picture) and do the same with the tabs along its length.



b. Extract the two screws indicated, slide the fascia forward and set aside.

c. To remove the top cover extract two screws indicated and lift it

off.

3. Brushroll – Requires 1,2 & 4 a. Service the brushroll b. Install – The end caps must be oriented as shown or the belt

won’t track correctly.

Baseplate



4. Belt – Requires Steps 1, 2 & 3

a. Fit the belt to the brushroll pulley. Fit the brushroll/belt assembly to the base. Feed the belt through the slot (Picture 1). Use a 3/8” or 10mm socket or nut driver (Picture 2) to capture the motor shaft (Picture 3) and pivot the belt on to it (Picture 4), this will require that the belt be encouraged onto the motor shaft. Be sure the belt is centered and fully seated (Picture 5). If the short socket doesn’t work for you try a deep socket (Picture 6 top) or a hollow shaft 7/16” nut driver with the head cut off (Picture 6 bottom & Picture 7). Make sure the belt is seated in the brushroll pulley

1 2

43 5

76

5. Power Supply – Requires Step 2

a. Unplug from control board and lift out.



6. Valve Assembly – Requires Step 2 a. Remove the hose coupler. Extract the clamp and valve module

screws indicated and remove the clamp. Loosen the motor module screws about ¼”.

Hose Coupler

e

p

b. Where the

module cato the cont

Increase Qualit

Valve Modul

y interface, tilt both modurefully out of the way to erol board.

y Through Interaction

Motor Module

Clam

les up and move the valve xpose the valve connections

with the Field 10


c. With the valve module connections exposed remove the servo and hose switch interconnects from the control board and Hall Effect switch from the base plate.

Hall Effect Switch

Hall Effect Switch - Install with the white line up as shown

Hall Effect & Hose Switch Interconnect Servo Interconnect

7. Valve Service – Requires Steps 2 & 6

a. Extract the valve screw and washer (#1 Phillips)



b. Extract the two servo screws Indicated and remove servo.

c. Extract four screws indicated (Picture 1) and open (Picture2). Service valve including the felt seal if necessary and/or housings

1

2

Valve



d. Orientate the valve as shown and start the screw into the servo.

If you fully tighten the valve to the servo at this point the halves won’t fit together.

e. Close up the housings with four screws, fasten the servo with two screws and tighten the valve screw.

f. Replace the inlet felt seal if necessary

8. Control Board – Requires Steps 2 & 6 a. Disconnect all wires and extract the two screws indicated.



9. Motor Module – Requires Steps 2, 4 & 6

a. Remove the motor power connection to the control board.

b. Roll the belt towards the motor shaft while guiding it off the shaft.

c. Extract the two motor screws loosened in step 6



d. Open the outer bag and unfasten the collar from the fan housing

neck and pull the outer bag assembly off of the fan housing.

Outer Bag

Collar

Fan Housing Neck

e. Lift out the motor module

10. Motor – Requires Steps 2, 4, 6 & 9 a. Lock the fan and with a 7/16” or 11mm socket turn the nut

Clockwise to remove fan nut and lock washer,



b. First attempt to pull the fan housing assembly off the motor

shaft. If necessary use a puller to remove the fan from the motor shaft (020510 – At this time I don’t know if they will be offered)

c. Remove and inspect the detent ring from the old motor. If free of

defect apply to the new motor, along with a felt seal and shaft washer.

11. Fan Housing Module - Require

a. To remove the scroll coindicated

b. To remove the scroll co

indicated.

DetentWasher or 2

Increase Quality Through In

Felt Seal

s Steps 2, 4, 6, 9 & 10 ver rear, extract the four screws

ver front extract the four screws

teraction with the Field 16


12. Outer Bag

a. Open the outer bag and unfasten the collar (CCW) from the fan housing outlet. Pull the debris tube out of the fan housing outlet.

Debris Tube

O Ring

Fan Housing Outlet Collar

Lower Stiffener

b. Slide the outer bag assembly off of the fan housing outlet.

Fan Housing Outlet

Outer Bag

c. If not done during the evaluation phase then remove the inner filter bag.

d. Spread the leg/s of the bag dock rear and remove the bag dock.



e. Extract the four screws indicated (Picture 1) and remove the bag dock rear. You have unfastened the bag dock rear from the slide assembly (Picture 2) this allows you to remove the outer bag from the unit (Picture 3).

1

2

3

f. For Your Information: If necessary, lift the deflector (Picture 1)

off of the adapter ring (Picture 2) and the adapter off of the debris tube.

1 Upper Bag Stiffener

2

Rubber Deflector – note the orientation of the tabsAdapter Ring



13. Grip a. Extract two screws as indicated in Picture 1. These two screws

will look like the screw 2 a. All of the other handle tube screws look like 2 b.

2 1

b. Extract the six screws indicated

a b

c. Internal view – service the electrical, power button, cord wrap

and grip as needed.



d. Extract one screw to remove the switch board from the actuator

assembly (Picture 1). Picture 2 shows the alignment of the switch buttons to the actuator assembly.

2

14. Harnes

a.

b.

Incre

1

s – Requires Steps 2, 6, 12 & possibly13 Remove the grip from the handle tube and open the grip.

Disconnect the harness wires from the wire nuts and switch assembly

ase Quality Through Interaction with the Field 20


c. To remove a defective harness doesn’t require the handle tube

to be disassembled but, due to the grip switch connector, it will be difficult to fish the new harness back through the assembled tube. It will be much quicker and easier to extract all of the handle tube and harness screws (eight) at once, pull out the old harness and, when ready, thread the new harness through the yoke, tubes, connector and reassemble to grip.

Lower and Upper Handle Tubes at the

Connector

Lower Handle

d.

15. Lifter –

a.

Incre

Harness Over Mold

Tube at the Yoke

Yoke

Disconnect the hot, neutral and switch leads from the control board. Unlock the square heyco from the base housing.

Square Heyco

ReqUnho

ase

Hot

uires Step 2 ok lifter spring f

Quality Throug

Neutral

rom

h In

Switch

post

teraction with the Field 21


b. Use a flathead screwdriver to unsnap the lifter lock

c. Pull the lifter to vertical, lift out one side and slide out the other

Lift Out

d. Po

Increas

Slide Out

p out the axle and slip off the wheel

Axle Wheel

e Quality Through Interaction with the Field 22


e. To prevent snagging, install spring make sure the hook is as

shown

f. Position the spring so that the loop is visible inside the base

Troubleshooting Valve Stuck in Hose Position – Nozzle Side Blocked

Hose

Nozzle

Defective Hall Effect Switch – DCV measurement Defective Servo – continuity – should have continuity Defective Control Board – elimination process



Valve Stuck in Nozzle Position – Hose Side Blocked

Hose

Nozzle

Hall Effect connector not plugged into control board - visual Hall Effect Switch installed upside down - visual Hose Sensing Switch no continuity with hose installed – continuity – should have continuity Defective Hall Effect Switch – DCV measurement Defective Servo – continuity – should have continuity Defective Control Board – elimination process 1. Hall Effect Switch Check – DCV

a. Conditions: Hose in place closes the hose-sensing switch (1), fan housing up and locked places the magnet (2) right across from the Hall Effect switch (3) unit turned ON.

1 2 3 Hose

Magnet

Hose S. Switch

2. With the above conditions met a DCV measurement between the white lead of the control board to power supply and one of the hose switch terminals should be 0vdc (Picture 1). Remove the hose or lean the handle back and the measurement should be 5vdc (Picture 2).



The meter is showing 18.2 mVDC which is essentially 0 volts

1

2

Nothing Works Outlet - 120VAC Power Circuit - Continuity Power Cord to Harness Connection - Visual Harness - Continuity Power Switch – Continuity If all the above are good and there is no 12VDC then the problem is in the: Power Supply - 12vdc If all the above are good then the problem is in the: Control Board

1. AC Outlet - ≈ 120VAC 2. Power Circuit – Continuity Ω



a. Hot – Touch a meter lead to the Hot/Narrow blade of the plug and the other meter lead to the Black lead connection on the Power Supply (1) - Continuity

b. Neutral – Touch a meter lead to the Neutral/Wide blade of the plug and the other meter lead to the White lead connection on the Power Supply (2) - Continuity

1 2

c. Continuity in both means the problem is not in the power cord or harness. Go to 5.

d. No continuity in one or the other or both means the problem is in either the cord, grip connections or the harness (Go to 3)

3. Power Cord a. Remove the grip from the handle tube and open it b. If there are any loose wires reconnect them and perform the

appropriate test (2a or b). c. If the wires are properly connected, then they are not the

problem d. Remove the wire nut from the two Black leads and check the

cord for continuity between the Hot/Narrow plug blade and the Black cord lead at the grip.

e. Remove the wire nut from the two White leads& one and check the cord for continuity between the Neutral/Wide plug blade plug blade and the White cord lead at the grip.

f. If d & e both have continuity then the cord is not the problem. Go to 4.

4. Harness a. Hot – Touch a meter lead to the Black harness lead in the grip

and the other meter lead to the Black lead connection on the Power Supply (1)

b. Neutral – Touch a meter lead to the White harness lead in the grip and the other meter lead to the White lead connection on the Power Supply (2)

c. If a & b both have continuity then the harness is not the problem. Go to 5.

5. Power Switch – Continuity Ω a. This check requires either two people or a lot of finger

coordination. At least there are test points.



b. A multimeter lead will always be on the Blue Common test point.

c. Place the other lead on the Brown On/Off test point, press and hold the Power switch – should go from 0L to 0.00 or ∞ to 0 depending on the type meter. If the meter goes from 0L to some value then back to 0L you probably aren’t getting a good push on the switch however this is enough to show the switch is working.

d. Repeat the process at the Red test point for High and the Yellow test point for Low.

Brown Yellow Red Blue

Brown On/Off

Red High

e. If all three switches have continuity then the switch is not the problem. Go to 6.

Blue Common

Yellow Low

6. Power Supply – 120VAC & 12VDC

a. AC Volt Input b. With the Red meter probe in contact with the Black conductor of

the connector and the Black probe in contact with the White conductor, plug in the power cord: 120VAC should be present as shown (119.7VAC) whether the unit is turned on or not.



c. With the Red meter probe in contact with the Red conductor of

the connector and the Black probe in contact with the White conductor, plug in the power cord: 12VDC should be present as shown (11.89 VDC) whether the unit is turned on or not.

d. No 12VDC – Replace Power Supply. e. Both voltages present. Go to 7.

7. Control Board – The control board is difficult to check by itself but by the process of elimination if all else works then it falls to the control board as the defective part.

Everything Works But The Motor Motor connector not plugged into the control board - visual Motor rotor locked – visual Motor burned out – visual

Motor Defective – loose wires/worn brushes – continuity – should be continuity through the motor Control Board Defective – 110-120VAC should be at the motor connection when the unit is turned on.




Everything Works But The LED Lights Defective Control Board – 12VDC Defective LED Board

1. Control Board Output to the LED lights – DCV a. Unplug the harness at the LED board. b. Tape the harness plug down as shown in Picture 1

1

BrownWhiteBlack

2. Plug in the power cord and turn the unit on (remember for DCV the black meter lead goes to Common and the Black lead goes to the voltage test point).

a. In this case Brown is common so look for 12VDC between Brown and White then between Brown and Black

b. If both are 12VDC then the LED board is defective c. If no 12VDC then the control board is defective

The Oreck Manufacturing Company Oreck Edge - Upright...

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