The May Food Issue

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MAY 2014 THE Food ISSUE THE WAY WE EAT NOW.

description

What I love about my position at TRIBEZA is the opportunity to cover all aspects of culture, but let's face it—the food issue is right up my alley. Austin’s red-hot restaurant scene means that our culinary landscape is shifting almost daily. Because the choices we make about food provide a compelling window into our unique culture, the theme of this month’s issue is simply the way we eat now. What do our most creative chefs, sommeliers, brewers, and restaurateurs reveal about our current desires and whims?

Transcript of The May Food Issue

Page 1: The May Food Issue

m ay 2 0 1 4THE Food issuE

t h e w ay w e e at n o w.

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d e p a r t m e n t s

o n t h e c o v e r :" t h e P e n e l o P e " f r o m s t a n l e y ' s f a r m h o u s e P i z z a ,

t o P P e d w i t h s m o k e d s P e c k , f r e s h m o z z a r e l l a , a r u g u l a , a n d t o m a t o e s . P h o t o b y w y n n m y e r s .

C o m m u n i t y

social hour 20

column: kristin armstrong 30

exposed 32

TRIBEZA talk 46

A r t s

arts & entertainment calendar 34

artist spotlight 36

s t y l e

Profile in style 92

behind the scenes 98

inspiration board 102

style Pick 106

last look 120

D i n i n g

without reservations 110

featuresProfile: Jake Silverstein 50

What's the Future for Meals on Wheels? 52

Pizza Night with Tyson Cole 60

French Lessons 66

Austin Tables: TV Dinners 76

Drink Your Dessert 84

Contents m ay 2014

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Editor’s Letter

I blame my English major. Thanks to Hemingway and Fitzgerald, I fell in love with the romance of writing, and I thought that a life devoted to food writing, in particular, would be all oysters and Sancerre in Paris and train-ride picnics in the South of France. And you know what? It kind of has been that.

For most of my career, cooking and writing have been parallel tracks. As soon as I was old enough to understand that I wanted to write, I began gravitating to jobs in the food industry that would inform my craft and satisfy both loves. In other words, I set out to earn my chops.

Along the way, I’ve had some pretty great adventures and more than my share of extraordinary meals. I’ve sold melons and sweet corn at a roadside market in Iowa; cooked at a Catholic rectory for three priests and a monk; waited tables; and tended bar at a popular bistro in New York’s East Village. I spent a few years in Europe, cooking at a château in the South of France and cranking out fresh pasta at an agriturismo (a farmhouse bed-and-breakfast) in Tuscany.

These hands-on experiences fueled my desire to write about the people and the stories behind food. As with anyone, my personal history has shaped my current sensibilities.

What I love about my position at TRIBEZA is the opportunity to cover all aspects of culture, but let's face it—the food issue is right up my alley. Austin’s red-hot restaurant scene means that our culinary landscape is shifting almost daily. Because the choices we make about food provide a compelling window into our unique culture, the theme of this month’s issue is simply the way we eat now. What do our most creative chefs, sommeliers, brewers, and restaurateurs reveal about our current desires and whims?

To shed light on these questions, we talked to some of the most innovative thinkers in town. I’ve written about Tyson Cole several times through the years. He’s become a friend and a trusted industry barometer. As a cookbook author, I know that it’s interesting to talk to chefs somewhere besides their restaurants—new dimensions are revealed! So in “Pizza Night with Tyson Cole” (page 60), we talked about our local food scene while he prepared dinner for his family at home.

Beginning in 2005 (with Lulu B’s and Flip Happy, remember?) Austin led the charge with the food truck craze, but what’s its current pulse? In “What's the Future of Meals on Wheels?”(page 52), Elizabeth Winslow revisits the mobile food scene and asks two key players to predict the road ahead.

Like other Francophiles, I’ve been anticipating the opening of laV, a gorgeous new restaurant in East Austin. In “French Lessons” (page 66), writer S. Kirk Walsh talks with the restaurant’s talented female crew and discovers how they meld the soulful satisfaction of, say, a perfectly roasted chicken with one of the most sophisticated settings in town. The entire TRIBEZA staff is smitten with partner Vilma Maizate’s impeccable style, so styling her for that feature was a joy (Vilma, you make anything look good!).

Shrimp tacos, barbecue, and messy burgers from the Counter Cafe are among the foods that Jake Silverstein (page 50) will miss about life in Austin. On the brink of moving east, the newly minted editor of the New York Times Magazine took time out to chat about his impressive post (thanks Jake, and congrats!).

I confess that the way to my heart is not through overt flourishes or ego-driven plates. I’ll choose a wood-fired pizza, wine sipped from a mason jar (I’m talking to you, Stanley’s Farmhouse Pizza!) and good company over a multi-course tasting menu and a dizzying array of small plates any day. Life is complicated enough; I don’t necessarily need to be challenged at the dinner table. For that reason, we honor local artisans who have devoted their days to the noble craft of coffee, beer, killer sandwiches, and pizzas to plan a day around. Thanks to all for making life in Austin more

delicious every day.

Paula [email protected]

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in the spirit of brilliant promos, kudos to larry mcguire and jeffrey's for their traveling mar-tini wagon (with classical music!) at the recent waller creek Picnic. deana saukum and Paul qui stopped by for sips and pics at our ice cream cocktails shoot.

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e D i t o r ' s l e t t e r Behind the Issue

A b eh i N D T h e SCeN e S Lo o k AT T h i S M o N T h ' S T R I B E Z A Ph oToSh o oTS

food & wine's best new chef Paul qui and deana saukam stopped by our shoot to pose for a couple of portraits (and a selfie or two).

husband and wife pho-to team adam vorhees and robin finlay set up our first cocktail shot of the morning.

the beet sidecar was the favorite drink of the shoot. we couldn't stop sneaking bites of home-made beet ice cream and candied grapefruit rinds.

the masterminds behind the cocktail recipes, rachel delrocco (left) and monica glenn (right), made sure each drink was made to perfection.

(Left) photographer Jessica pages captur-ing the energetic guys at Kyoten. (right) Kyoten's unoffical mascot, a sweet akita named Baku.

Our favorite instagram shot of the month: Vilma mazaite during our dreamy shoot at laV. Follow us on instagram @tribeza.

set up of the cobbler cocktail fixings before the mixing began. the secret ingredient at qui? house made strawberry-ginger-beer jam.

adam, robin and our art director, ashley Horsley check placement and lighting after each shot.

tricks of the trade: robin holds dry ice over the drink in between shots to make sure the glass stays cold and frosty.

Photog r a Phy by b ill sa ll a n s & j essic a Pag es16 may 2014 tribeza.com

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Columnist kristin armstrong

illustrAtorjoy gallagher

Writersemma banksjessica dupuyjaime netzers. kirk walshelizabeth winslow

PhotogrAPherszach andersonmiguel angelkate lesueurleann muellermichael a. mullerwynn myersleah overstreetjessica Pagesjohn Pesinadagny Piaseckibill sallansadam vorheesthomas winslow

mailing address 706a west 34th streetaustin, texas 78705

ph (512) 474 4711 | fax (512) 474 4715www.tribeza.com

founded in march 2001, TRIBEZA is austin's leading locally-owned arts and culture magazine.

Printed by csi Printing and mailing

copyright @ 2014 by TRIBEZA. all rights reserved. reproduction, in whole or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher, is prohibited.

TRIBEZA is a proud member of the austin chamber of commerce.

a u s t i n a r t s + c u lt u r e

PuBlishergeorge t. elliman

eDitor-in-ChiefPaula disbrowe

Art DireCtorashley horsley

events + mArketing

CoorDinAtor staley hawkins

senior ACCountexeCutives

ashley beallandrea brunnerlindsey harvey

PrinCiPAlsgeorge t. elliman

chuck sackvance sack

michael torres

internshayley albrecht

emma banks christina ewin

harrison robinson

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social hour A u s t i n

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Social Hour

TRIBEZA march music series:sideroom socialTRIBEZA kicked off the March Music Series at the candlelit side room of Billy Reid. the first act of the night was artist-on-the-rise chris denny. act two was local favorite dan dyer, who has been a staple of the texas music scene for over 15 years. clark's oyster bar prepared oysters and shrimp toast and drinks were provided by corona, modelo especial and deep eddy vodka.

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TRIBEZA march music series:Live at GarageTRIBEZA followed up its first event with live at Garage on march 13. tamika jones and ephron owens took center stage, with dinner from winflo osteria and drinks provided by deep eddy vodka for attendees. live at garage coincided perfectly with south by southwest, the music event of the year.

sideroom social: 1. Dan Dyer & Christina Shipley 2. JT Van Zandt & Chris Thomas 3. Courtney barajas & Doug koury 4. Cheryle Locke & Adrienne Pingel 5. Rachel horn, Denise Rose & bryan hebert live at garage: 6. Lindsay Singletary & Meg Fanjoy 7. David Gardner, hannah Presley & Chauncy James 8. erika bonfanti & Jeff Acton 9. Lauren Willson, Alexandra Stewart & Susie bowen 10. ephriam owens

20 may 2014 tribeza.com

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the getdown: 1. Abby Carney & Courtney Goforth 2. Dale Watson 3. Travis Sutherland & Lauren bruno 4. Martin Martinez & Tess Wallerstedt heartbreaker Banquet: 5. Ryan Grametbaur & beth bizer 6. Niclas Gillis & Josh Ratner 7. kristine Alnes & Sabine engesnes Big hair: 8. brandon Ramirez & kat Richards 9. bill & Ana Stapleton rare & fine Wine Auction: 10. Dean Dresser, Carl boisvert & Don Neville 11. Mort & bobbi Topfer 12. Susan Lilly-Delsignore & Marc Delsignore

TRIBEZA march music series: the Get downthe getdown finished up TRIBEZA’s three-week music series with musician dale watson at the Getaway Motor Club. the getdown also doubled as TRIBEZA’s 13th birthday party, complete with drinks from deep eddy vodka, colorado gold whiskey, austin eastciders, modelo and Pacifico. appetizers for guest were provided by el cubico and the Peached tortilla.

Heartbreaker Banquet at Willie nelson's ranchthe Heartbreaker Banquet has become an annual south by southwest event, hosted at willie nelson’s private “luck, texas” ranch. this year the daylong lineup combined at array of artists that spanned from americana rock to indie-folk music, featuring musicians like shakey graves, noah gunderson, and sons of fathers.

Big Hair Country Fairhosted at the beautiful Salt Lick pavilion in driftwood, the big hair country fair presented by deep eddy vodka is Creative Action's annual spring fundraiser. the event boasted all-you-can-eat bbq, an open bar, bouffant style hairdos, a vintage photo booth, an auction, and musical entertainment by the show and tellers and waterloo revival.

rare & Fine Wine auctionhosted at the Four Seasons hotel, this year's rare and fine wine auction put on by the Food & Wine Foundation, raised their two-year, matched-cash contribution to more than $130,000 for dell children's medical center of central texas.

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social hour A u s t i n

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If you come to historic Fredericksburg

anticipating authentic German cuisine,

we will not disappoint. But further

exploration will reveal restaurateurs that

offer decidedly more diverse menus. Escolar

and lobster. Seared duck breast with ginger/

orange glaze. Tender steaks. And very naughty desserts.

All complemented by award-winning cabernets,

tempranillos, viogniers and rieslings from our numerous

vineyards and wineries. Incidentally, “Zauber” is

the German word for “magic.” Guten Appetit. ★

Vis i tFreder icksburgTX.com | 866 997 3600

Culinary

“Zauber” that goes far beyond

Bier und Brats.

exploration will reveal restaurateurs that

offer decidedly more diverse menus. Escolar

and lobster. Seared duck breast with ginger/

Texas Hill Country

— Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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Austin film: 1. Custom artwork by hallie eubanks 2. Spring Fashions from kendra Scott 3. Models from Co Star playing cornhole 4. Models from Raven + Lily 5. Ricky hodge & Mel Martell 6. india Gail & Carly bieler 7. Justin & Athena boyd 8. Lick served a sweet cream and berries and salted carmel ice creams 9. Melinda Perez & krystal Lucero 10. Molly Purnell & Amy Freedberg 11. The dapper dudes at burro Cheese kitchen 12. balloons on the front porch of The French Legation

social hour A u s t i n

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13. The beautiful ladies of komen Austin selling kendra Scott mystery boxes 14. Spring fashions from Maya Star 15. DJ Nabiya de Grace 16. Purse & Clutch's stylish pop-up shop 17. Models from Sunroom 18. The lovely gals at Raven + Lily

the Lawn partybenefitting Komen Austin and the French Legation Museum, TRIBEZA’s second lawn Party combined tasty food vendors and fanciful store booths to make for one fun-filled afternoon. attendees played lawn games, snacked on gourdoughs, lick ice cream, hat creek burgers, burro's cheese kitchen, cornucopia, benji's and clif bars, all while shopping spring styles from ecetera, etc., co-star, maya star, kendra scott, Purse & clutch, raven and lily, sunroom and starling eyewear.

the frenCh legAtion is a stately example of all things

Texas. Perched atop a hill just east of I-35, the 2.5 acre park overlooks

downtown Austin with a view that is arguably one of the best in the city. It is

at once host of parties, weddings, and private events, as well as museum for

French-Texas history and cultural hub for the people of Austin.

Director of the museum Noel Freeze says she is the main liaison

between the community and the museum.

“I help our staff with event and program planning, design

temporary exhibits, give guidance over landscaping decisions, and

work with the Daughters of the Republic of Texas as they work to

restore the historic house at the museum,” Freeze said. “Each day is

different, but always very busy.”

The French Legation put down roots in Austin in 1839 when the

city was established, and 175 years later, it still holds an invaluable

place in the heart of Austin.

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Any Baby Can: 1. Tyler & Tara Clifton 2. Margaret becker & kat Townsend 3. Casey Sherley & katie Doyle 4. Trevor & Candice boehm seton gala: 5. Vim & Malini Rajput 6. Janie brydson & Ashley Covert 7. Samantha & Stuart bernstein 8. Abby & Casey Ford Waller Creek: 9. Pam Colloff & Andy brown 10. Lisa hickey & Amanda Sprague 11. Rebekah & Tyler Dutton 12. Patty hoffpauir & Lisa Roberts

any Baby Can rockin' roundupnonprofit Any Baby Can hosted its 17th annual rockin’ roundup on march 29 to raise money for their efforts to improve the lives of texas infants. the event featured dinner, gambling, a texas-sized silent auction and music provided by cover band skyrocket.

elizabeth ann seton Board Live! Galaheld at Camp Mabry under the austin stars, guest enjoyed a lively cocktail party, elegant dinner buffet, incredible auction packages, and an after-party with dj hear no evil and live entertainment from robert earl keen all benefiting the Seton Community Health Centers and the Sister Gertrude Levy

Endowment for the Poor.

Waller Creek pop-up picnicWaller Creek Conservancy's community-wide picnic raises funds to develop the park that runs through downtown austin. Purchase a basket from participatinf restaurants like contigo and st. Phillip, beforehand and arrive the evening of ready for good food, live music, and good vibes.

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Page 30: The May Food Issue

hidden music: 1. Maryam brown & Rose Reyes 2. Annette Carlozzie, Dan bullock & Sheila Youngblood 3. brian Willey & Thao Votang keith kreeger: 4. evangelina & keith kreeger 5. Jill Fanette & Sarah Miller 6. Deeyn Rhodes & Tomoko kuwahara vaca y vino: 7. brett Moore & Lucy Jolis 8. katie Angotti & Drew Ratcliffe 9. Noel & Will bridges Bob schneider: 10. emma Gordon & Jake Marx 11. Tea eiland, Dwayne Cooper & Michelle Suggs 12. Merritt knize & Jonesie Parker

Hidden musicbenefitting Conspirare, the 8th annual Hidden Music featured talents ruthie foster, eliza gilkyson, and Patrice Pike. the evening included a full open bar, seated wine dinner, silent auction, and concert.

Keith Kreeger spring CollectionUrbanspace Interiors launched Keith Kreeger’s spring collection on march 27, serving up locally-crafted treats on his new tableware. the collection is both artful and functional—the perfect combination of luxury and necessity.

Vaca y Vinothe 3rd annual Vaca y Vino presented by Lambert's was hosted at The

Bridges Ranch in wimberley on april 6. attendees feasted on argentine-style beef and wine, accompanied by live music and locally crafted beers.

Bob schneider Burden of proofbob schneider's new album is another pop-folk-rock success for this austin native. in keeping with his previous albums, Burden of Proof is characterized by musical experimentation and romantic metaphors, singing a tune straight from the heart.

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IF I’m nOt mIndFuL, I can get into a rut with food. I buy the same things, I prepare the same quick meals for my kids (taco night again, my pretties . . . ), and I pack the same lunches. We even frequent the same restaurants. It’s the equivalent of a culinary Groundhog Day.

Recently my daughters had evening plans, which allowed me the rare treasure of a night alone with my son, Luke. (It was a weekday, so he was willing to acquiesce to a dinner date with his mother.) I picked him up from practice and told him to clean up and be ready to roll.

When he came downstairs, I had one of those moments, a double take of the heart. My beloved boy, the one who used to fit in the crook of my arm, sauntered into the room at fourteen years old and more than six feet tall and 190 pounds. Normally clad in clashing colors of Nike Dri-FIT fabrics, he shocked me by showing up in jeans, boots, and a very nice Ermenegildo Zegna sweater that he had clearly pilfered from his father’s closet. I closed my lower jaw and said, “Wow. You. Are. Really. Hand-some.” He flashed me his new grown-up smile, sans braces, and said he was, as always, starving.

When Luke was little we lived in the south of France. He loves the tales about our time together, the good old days before sisters, when he was the chosen only child. I remind him about how he cut his first teeth by gnawing on the end of a baguette. I tell him how he loved the beaches with stones instead of sand, and how he enjoyed going to the outdoor markets and pointing at all the gorgeous flowers and produce, asking the name of everything. He is mystified that he could understand French and English interchangeably. Luke was my main companion, since his dad traveled constantly, so we had an endless stream of chatter between us—his baby talk and my fledgling French. He was my dinner date at some fabulous restaurants and countless charming cafés. I try to explain how Sunday lunches lasted the rest of the day and no one, including

By KrIstIn a rmstrOnGILLustr atIOn By JOy G a LL aG Her

Dinner for Two

him, was ever in a hurry for them to end. I have the fondest memories of things he can’t remember, and I try to recount them often and well so they come alive for him (and stay alive for me).

I decided to honor our shared past by taking him to dinner that night at Justine’s, the popular brasserie on the east side. I should state that din-ing with Luke is not like taking an ordinary kid to dinner. He likes to try things, a lot of things, so bring your palate—and your wallet. He ordered the steak frites, which is a giant rib-eye with butter sauce on top of a pile of fries. He had two loaves of bread dipped in olive oil while we waited and I sipped a nice Bordeaux. I had the Coquilles St. Jacques Basquaise, scallops that reminded me of the many lunches we shared along the Côte d’Azur. But now, instead of sitting in a stroller or a high chair and waiting for his mother to cut his meat, he holds the door for me.

I admit to taking full advantage of the situation. Having dinner alone at a restaurant with my son means he has to talk, ideally engage in di-alogue involving multi-word answers and the posing of questions. He can’t stare at his phone, resort to derogatory banter with his sisters, or hurry to clear his plate and head back upstairs. I asked him all kinds of questions, and he asked a few in return. He scoured the dessert menu, and much to my delight chose the crème brûlée (I got one tiny bite and he inhaled the rest). We talked about memories from Europe and dreams for future travel adventures. He made me laugh and made me think. I looked at him with fresh eyes, thinking that he might one day be a decent date for someone after all.

The point of dining, after all, is not just addressing the hunger in our stomachs. The act of sharing good food, ambience, and conversation feeds the hunger of the heart—the deep desire to connect and spend time with the people we love the most.

tribeza.com may 2014 31

community C o l u m n

illus tr ation by joy ga ll ag h er For a limited- edition print , contact joygallagher@g mail .com.

Page 34: The May Food Issue

community P r o f i l e

e x P o s e D

O riginally from League City, south of Houston, Amos Lowe made his way to Austin as most people do, to earn a degree at the University of

Texas. In Lowe’s case, it was one in mechanical engineer-ing, something he put straight to work with a career in commercial construction and design.

On the job, Scott Simmons, a colleague of Lowe’s, noticed his affinity for beer and challenged him to make his own at home. “That was the suggestion that changed everything,” says Lowe. “I went over to his place to make a batch with him and I was hooked.” Lowe began brewing beer every week at home, a hobby that ran strong for about ten years.

“My engineer friends and I would get out on our driveway and make a batch and drink a batch from the previous week. It got to a point where we were drinking more than we were making, so I had to keep getting bigger systems.”

But transitioning from a secure, solid career in engineering to one in brewing took a big leap of faith. He started slowly, by brewing once a week with Brian “Swifty” Peters at Uncle Billy’s Brew and Que, just for a little more experience. When the brew-ery decided to expand, Lowe was offered a job to run the brewing at the Barton Springs location, but he still wasn’t ready.

All along, the Austin Beer Garden Brewing Company (the ABGB) had been a concept brewing—pardon the pun—in his mind. Lowe and Swifty slowly began crafting the busi-ness plan, for a few years, in fact, while Lowe continued to toy with the idea of becoming a full-time brewer. It wasn’t until 2010, following a bad day at work, that he finally took the plunge. It just happened to be at the same time he was traveling to Chicago for the Craft Brewers Conference.

“I called my wife and said, ‘I’ve got to go brew beer,’ and she said, ‘Go do whatever you have to do.’ It was the best thing I could have ever heard her say,” says Lowe. “I tell people I traded money for happiness and I don’t miss the money one bit.”

Once Lowe’s plans were finalized, he gained the added bonus of having Swifty come on board with him as co-brewer. The ABGB opened in August 2013 on West Oltorf in the old Austin World of Rentals space, offering a lineup of ten lagers and ales—five mainstays and five specials that rotate seasonally. In addition to its craft brews, the beer garden offers a small menu of pizzas and sandwiches and hosts a regular calendar of live music. J. du puy

Amos Loweau s ti n b eer g a r d en b r e w i n g co.

Photog r a Phy by z ach a n der son

from engineer to craft brewer, amos lowe traded money for hap-piness, and he's never looked back.

32 may 2014 tribeza.com

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9 Q u e s t i o n s f o r a m o s

What can you say about the Texas craft beer scene right now? it is honestly kind of nuts right now. People across the country in general are really into craft beer, and it feels like the overall demographic is just more edu-cated on what good beer is. with the 2013 legislative session, there were laws put in place that allowed for more growth in texas, and now it seems like ev-eryone’s opening breweries. and not just in austin. dallas, houston, and san antonio have been boom-ing as well.

The number of breweries may be increasing, but how is the quality? well, some brewers are doing better than others. but i’d say, in general, we’re doing very well. over time, we’ll see who ends up sticking around. the competition is getting so much better that if you’re not making good beer, you’re going to get weeded out pretty quick. you have to make high-quality beer to sell any.

What are the challenges in the industry? aside from making good beer, you have to figure out how to sell it, which translates to distribution and shelf space. you can make beer all day long, but if you can’t sell it, that’s a problem. we have a brew pub and we can sell our beer on the premises which means we have a built-in customer base with our brewery, with ten faucets, and as long as people enjoy it, we can be successful. but that’s not the case for everyone.

What beer or brewery inspired you to become a brewer? the brewer that inspired me was my friend scott simmons, who convinced me to start brewing at home. but the brewery i credit for my loving beer so much is live oak brewing company. i have always loved their live oak Pilz.

Who are bigger geeks: beer, spirits, or wine guys? i do think some people can be a little too into things. i say just enjoy the beverage. don’t analyze it and dissect it. i admit, we definitely do that a lot in the

beer world. but i just don’t think that’s important. i love beer. but i love what happens when people share wine, or beer, or spirits together. that’s what matters. if you treat it like it’s an exam, you miss the best part—the socializing. that’s honestly why we’re a brew pub instead of a production brewery. i love seeing people enjoy themselves.

What are you drinking when it's not beer? i drink a lot of red wine. in fact, i drink it every day. it’s my preferred beverage. right now i like malbec and spanish and italian wines. it may sound strange, but it helps keep my palate adjusted. if you’re a brewer and you drink a lot of hoppy beers, i think your palate becomes skewed a little bit. but when i drink red wine at night, it gives me a perfect reset.

What styles of beer do you prefer? i love pilsner. it’s a lager-style beer that’s perfect for the hot texas climate. i love that pilsners are simple, dry and elegant. when they’re good, they’re full of flavor. before i started abgb, i’d always order the live oak brewery Pilz. in fact, the guys at the gin-ger man always made fun of me for being in a rut because it’s all i ordered. ironically, swifty learned to brew with chip mcelroy at live oak. and he’s since taught me how to make good pilsner. i think a lot of breweries have stayed away from lager-style beers like pilsner because they are so mass-produced. for the longest time, everyone just did ales. but lagers are delicious if they’re done well.

What types of food do you like best with the beers you make? i don’t get too uppity about food pairings. espe-cially when it comes to beer. to be honest, i love sandwiches. it’s mainly what we serve at the abgb. that and pizza. right now my favorite is a good muffaletta

with a cold pilsner. the sandwich is heavy and rich, but the crispness of the beer just cuts right through it. i also love seafood. a lot of people like champagne and oys-ters, but i like my oysters with—you guessed it—pilsner.

What days of the week are you brewing and how long does that process take? What are you doing when you're not brewing? we usually brew on tuesdays, thursdays, and fri-days, which is a six- to eight-hour process in the brewhouse. when i’m not doing that, i like to play the pedal steel guitar. i’ve been playing with a band, little mikey and the soda jerks, for about seven years, and we always play the friday happy hour at the abgb.

when it comes to the hot texas climate, there's only one beer lowe picks as his all-time favorite, classic lager-style Pilsner.

e x P o s e D Amos Lowe

Page 36: The May Food Issue

Entertainment Calendar

MAYCALeNDARSarts & entertainment

MusicBilly Curringtonmay 1, 8pmacl live at the moody theater

Drive-By truCkers With JD mCPhersonmay 1, 7pmstubb’s bbq

musiC for the soul PresenteD By k.i.n.gmay 1, 6:30pmspeakeasy

tom Jones may 2, 8 pmacl live at the moody theater

lone stAr JAmmay 3-4lbj library lawn

hAAm’s CorPorAte BAttle of the BAnDsmay 9, 10pmacl live at the moody theater

JAZZ BrunChmay 10, 10amhotel san jose

ingriD miChAelsonmay 14, 6pmstubb’s bbq

eelsmay 16, 8pmParamount theatre

leDisimay 17, 8pmacl live at the moody theater

Jimmy eAt WorlDmay 18, 7pmstubb’s bbq

giPsy kingsmay 21, 8pmacl live at the moody theater

CAlle 13may 25, 8pmacl live at the moody theater

the 1975 With BAD sunsmay 30, 8pmstubb’s bbq

Jimmy Buffett AnD the CorAl reefer BAnDmay 31, 8amaustin 360 amphitheater

FilmAuDienCe AWArD series: the golDen sCAlloPmay 14, 7pmgalaxy highland theater 10

mADe in texAs: future WorlDmay 21, 7pmtexas spirit theatre

lion Arkmay 25stateside at the Paramount

TheatreAlo’s the elixir of lovemay 1-4long center

eArs, eyes + feetmay 1-4b. iden Payne theatre

WAr horsemay 6-11bass concert hall

vAnyA AnD soniA AnD mAshA AnD sPikemay 28-june 22zach theatre

Comedymike ePPsmay 2, 8pmbass concert hall

Jerry seinfelDmay 3, 7pm and 9:30pmbass concert hall

ADriAn Peterson’s All Pros of ComeDymay 16, 12amacl live at the moody theater

JoAn riversmay 30, 8pmParamount theatre

ChildrenPinoCChiomay 3-4zach theatre

CAt AnD the hAtmay 3, 11amzach theatre

the sleePing BeAutymay 9-11the long center

OtherleukemiA & lymPhomA soCiety’s mAn & WomAn of the yeAr grAnD finAlemay 2, 6:30pmat&t conference center

WilDfloWer Center gAlAmay 2, 6:30pmlady bird johnson wildflower center

reD, hot & soul: the greAt ZAChsBymay 3zach theatre

2nD AnnuAl toAst to the Cure DerBy DAymay 3, 6pmtrinity hall

Austin heArt BAllmay 3, 7pmhilton austin

Al fresCo itAliAn feAstmay 6, 7pmolive & june

Best PArty evermay 9, 7pmw hotel austin

PArAmount & stAtesiDe’s AnniversAry gAlAmay 10, 6pmParamount theatre

sWing for the ArC With teD Clementsmay 19, 8amonion creek golf course

freDeriCksBurg CrAWfish festivAlmay 23-25fredericksburg marktplatz

komen Austin PerfeCtly Pink PArtymay 31, 5:30pmbrazos hall

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Page 37: The May Food Issue

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Page 38: The May Food Issue

arts & entertainment C A l e n D A r s

r ich Garza saw a hole in the market, so he filled it. Enter the Pachanga Latino Music Festival, a fiesta seven years

young that hopes to be representative of Latin music in an industry mostly dominated by American and European indie pop, rock, and elec-tronic bands. This year, the festival has been condensed to one day densily packed with national and international acts, visual arts, and treats for the foodies—adding up to what Garza calls a complete cultural celebration. He hopes to continue to grow the audience for Pachanga, building on what has already become a convivial epicenter for Latinos in Austin.

“The Latin audience is such an interesting group and such a diverse mix of people,” Garza says. “We present cultural touch points that unite people and bring them together. This is not just for Hispanics—it’s to present Latin culture that resonates with a general audience as well.”

Among this year’s additions to the festival are appearances by national and international bands as well as the local and regional ones, and a taco tour of sorts for VIP guests, inviting VIP badge holders to taste samples from 10 dif-ferent taco purveyors and two tasting bars.

“It would take you hours and hours and miles in the car to experience what we’re bringing together in one place,” Garza says. “This is a way to let people celebrate their culture and heritage and share it with other people.”

Garza considers himself more the host of a party than the organizer of a festival. It’s a celebration, and one you won’t want to miss out on. e. BanKs

e v e n t P i C k

Pachanga Latino Music Festival

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Arts CalendarmAy 1BulloCk texAs stAtehistory museumthe mcdonald observatory: 75 years of stargazingexhibit opening, may 1through june 29

mAy 3 the ContemPorAry Austinorly gengerexhibition opening, may 3through may 31

WAlly WorkmAn gAlleryandy dixon: Pleasure studies iireception, 6-8pm through may 31

mAy 7DAvis gAllerysecond nature: new works by david everett and billy hassellartist talk, 6-8pmthrough may 24

OngOing BlAnton museum of Artconverging lines: eva hesse and sol lewittthrough may 18Perception unfolds: looking at deborah hay’s dancethrough may 18 between mountains and sea: arts of the ancient andesthrough august 17

flAtBeD Pressinterior world: etchings by julie speedthrough may 3homage: works by spencer fidlerthrough may 24

hArry rAnsom Centerthe world at war, 1914-1918through august 3

Women & their Work gAlleryleslie wilkes: optic vervethrough may 18

lorA reynolDs gAllerytom molloy: nativethrough may 10

vArious loCAtionswest austin studio tourmay 10-11 and 17-18

36 may 2014 tribeza.com

Page 39: The May Food Issue

ExpEriEncE thE thrill of opEra:timElEss storiEs, bEautiful music, gorgEous voicEs. at thE long cEntEr.

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This project is funded and supported in part by the City of Austin through the Economic Development Department/Cultural Arts Division believing an investment in the Arts is an investment in Austin’s future. Visit Austin at NowPlayingAustin.com.

Page 40: The May Food Issue

M O T O R I Z A T I O N & A U T O M A T I O N S P E C I A L I S T S

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Page 41: The May Food Issue

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Page 42: The May Food Issue

I t seems the glory days of snail mail are over, but tell that to Blanton Museum cura-tor Veronica Roberts, and she’ll likely disagree. With the opening of the Blanton’s latest exhibit, “Converging Lines: Eva Hesse and Sol Lewitt,” Roberts and her staff

have ushered in a refreshing attitude of appreciation for the power of the pen, both among themselves and among the museum’s visitors. Since the exhibit’s launch on Feb-ruary 23, the Blanton has gone through more than 1,000 postcards, which are offered freely to guests, who may send them off as they wish.

The exhibit, which focuses on the long, intimate correspondence between artists Hesse and LeWitt, brings an intimacy to the museum that is both unique and intriguing.

“The personal aspect of the show—the celebration of a remarkable, supportive friendship—made the exhibition that much more appealing,” Roberts said. “Concep-tual art and abstract art can be challenging for people, but there’s a warmth to this show and a sense of play in both artists’ work that I think people are enjoying.”

Roberts writes more extensively about the postcards—39 of which are reproduced in the resource room of the exhibit—on the museum’s blog. Her personal commitment, inspired by the artists: sending a postcard a day to her 92-year-old grandmother.

It’s rare that such dedication to a love of pen and paper still exists, but for Roberts it’s a no-brainer: “There are very few nice things you can do for a person for 34 cents!”

Can’t argue with that. Get inspired while you still can—this don't-miss show closes on May 18. For more information visit blantonmuseum.org. e. BanKs

e x h i B i t i o n s P o t l i g h t

"Converging Lines: Eva Hesse and Sol LeWitt" show at the Blanton

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ART SPACeS

Museumsthe ContemPorAry Austin: lAgunA gloriA3809 w. 35th st. (512) 458 8191 driscoll villa hours: tu–w 12-4, th-su 10–4 grounds hours: m–sa 9–5, su 10–5 thecontemporaryaustin.org.

the ContemPorAry Austin: Jones Center700 congress ave. (512) 453 5312 hours: w 12-11, th-sa 12-9, su 12-5 thecontemporaryaustin.org

Austin gAlleries5804 lookout mountain dr. (512) 495 9363 by appt. only austingalleries.com

BlAnton museum of Art200 e. mlk jr. blvd. (512) 471 7324 hours: tu– f 10–5, sa 11–5, su 1–5 blantonmuseum.org

the BoB BulloCk texAs stAte history museum1800 congress ave. (512) 936 8746 hours: m–sa 9–6, su 12–6 thestoryoftexas.com

elisABet ney museum304 e. 44th st. (512) 458 2255 hours: w–sa 10–5, su 12–5 ci.austin.tx.us/elisabetney

frenCh legAtion museum802 san marcos st. (512) 472 8180

hours: tu–su 1–5 frenchlegationmuseum.org

george WAshington CArver museum1165 angelina st. (512) 974 4926 hours: m–th 10–9, f 10–5:30, sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/carver

hArry rAnsom Center300 e. 21st st. (512) 471 8944 hours: tu–w 10–5, th 10–7, f 10–5, sa–su 12–5 hrc.utexas.edu

lBJ liBrAry AnD museum2313 red river st. (512) 721 0200 hours: m–su 9–5 lbjlibrary.org

mexiC–Arte museum419 congress ave. (512) 480 9373 hours: m–th 10–6, f–sa 10–5, su 12–5 mexic–artemuseum.org

o. henry museum409 e. 5th st. (512) 472 1903 hours: w–su 12–5

thinkeryAustin ChilDren's museum1830 simond avehours: t-fri 10-5, sa-su 10-6thinkeryaustin.org

umlAuf sCulPture gArDen & museum605 robert e. lee rd. (512) 445 5582 hours: w–f 10–4:30, sa–su 1–4:30 umlaufsculpture.org

arts & entertainment m u s e u m s & g A l l e r i e s

40 may 2014 tribeza.com

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arts & entertainment m u s e u m s & g A l l e r i e s

galleriesArt on 5th3005 s. lamar blvd. (512) 481 1111 hours: m–sa 10–6 arton5th.com

ArtWorks gAllery1214 w. 6th st. (512) 472 1550 hours: m–sa 10–5 artworksaustin.com

Austin Art gArAge2200 s. lamar blvd., ste. j (512) 351-5934hours: tu–sa 11–6, su 12–5 austinartgarage.com

Austin Art sPACe gAllery AnD stuDios7739 north cross dr., ste. q (512) 771 2868 hours: f–sa 11–6 austinartspace.com

CAPitAl fine Art1214 w. 6th st.(512) 628 1214hours: m-sa 10-5capitalfineart.com

CreAtive reseArCh lABorAtory2832 e. mlk jr. blvd. (512) 322 2099 hours: tu–sa 12–5 uts.cc.utexas.edu/~crlab

DAvis gAllery837 w. 12th st. (512) 477 4929 hours: m–f 10–6, sa 10–4 davisgalleryaustin.com

flAtBeD Press2830 e. mlk jr. blvd. (512) 477 9328 hours: m-f 10-5, sa 10-3 flatbedpress.com

gAllery BlACk lAgoon4301-a guadalupe st. (512) 371 8838 hours: sa 1-5 galleryblacklagoon.com

gAllery shoAl Creek2832 mlk jr. blvd. #3 (512) 454 6671 hours: tu–f 11–5, sa 10–3 galleryshoalcreek.com

grAyDuCk gAllery608 w. monroe dr. (512) 826 5334 hours: w 11-6, th 4-8, f-sa 11-6, su 12-5 grayduckgallery.com

lA PeñA227 congress ave., #300 (512) 477 6007 hours: m-f 8-5, sa 8-3 lapena–austin.org

lorA reynolDs gAllery360 nueces st., #50(512) 215 4965hours: w-sa 11-6lorareynolds.com

lotus gAllery1009 w. 6th st., #101 (512) 474 1700 hours: m–sa 10-6 lotusasianart.com

monDo gAllery

4115 guadalupe st.hours: tu - sa, 12- 6mondotees.com

the nAnCy Wilson sCAnlAn gAllery 6500 st. stephen’s dr. (512) 327 1213 hours: m-f 9-5 sstx.org

okAy mountAin gAllery1619 e. cesar chavez st.sa 1-5 or by appointment(512) 293 5177 okaymountain.com

Positive imAges 1118 w. 6th st. (512) 472 1831 hours: m-sa 10-5, su 12-4

russell ColleCtion fine Art1137 w. 6th st.(512) 478 4440 hours: tu–sa 10–6 russell–collection.com

stePhen l. ClArk gAllery1101 w. 6th st. (512) 477 0828 hours: tu–sa 10–4 stephenlclarkgallery.com

stuDio 101011 west lynnhours: tu–sa 11–5 (512) 236 1333 studiotenarts.com

testsite502 w. 33rd st.

(512) 453 3199 by appt. only fluentcollab.org

WAlly WorkmAn gAllery1202 w. 6th st. (512) 472 7428 hours: tu–sa 10–5 wallyworkman.com

Women & their Work1710 lavaca st. (512) 477 1064 hours: m–f 10–6, sa 12–5 womenandtheirwork.org

yArD Dog1510 s. congress ave. (512) 912 1613 hours: m–f 11–5, sa 11–6, su 12–5 yarddog.com

Alternative Spaces

ArtPost: the Center for CreAtive exPression4704 e. cesar chavez st.artpostaustin.com

Austin PresenCe330 bee cave rd., #700 (512) 306 9636 hours: tu–f 10–6, sa 10–4austinpresence.com

BAy6 gAllery & stuDios5305 bolm rd.(512) 553 3849

by appointment onlybay6studios.com

Big meDium5305 bolm rd., #12 (512) 939 6665 bigmedium.org

ClArksville Pottery & gAlleries4001 n. lamar blvd., #550(512) 454 9079hours: m-sa 11-6, su 1-4

Co-lAB ProJeCt sPACe613 allen st. (512) 300 8217 by appointment only colabspace.org

fAreWell Books913 e. cesar chavez st. (512) 476 domy hours: mon-sa 12–8, su 12–7 domystore.com

JuliA C. ButriDge gAllery1110 barton springs rd. (512) 974 4025 hours: m–th 10–9:30, f 10–5:30, sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/ dougherty/gallery.htm

PumP ProJeCt Art ComPlex702 shady ln. (512) 351 8571 pumpproject.org

roi JAmes3620 bee cave rd., ste. c

(512) 970 3471by appointment only roijames.com

sPACe 123121 e. 12th st. (512) 524 7128 t-f 10-5 space12.org

Fredericksburg

AgAve gAllery208 e. san antonio st.hours: m-sa 10-5(830) 990 1727agavegallery.com

ArtisAns At roCky hill234 w. main st. (830) 990 8160hours: m-sa 10-5:30, su 11-3artisansatrockyhill.com

freDeriCksBurg Art gAllery314 e. main st.(830) 990 2707hours: m-sa 10-5:30, su 12-5fbartgallery.com

insight gAllery214 w. main st.(830) 997 9920hours: tu-sa 10-5:30insightgallery.com

Whistle Pik425 e. main st.(830) 990 8151hours: m-sa 10-5

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Jones Center700 Congress Avenue Austin, Texas 78701Laguna Gloria3809 West 35th StreetAustin, Texas 78703thecontemporaryaustin.org

This project is funded and supported in part by a grant from the Texas Commission on the Arts and in part by the City of Austin Economic Growth & Redevelopment Services Office/Cultural Arts Division believing an investment in the Arts is an investment in Austin’s future. Visit Austin at NowPlayingAustin.com.

Director’s Circle: Michael and Jeanne Klein, Suzanne Deal Booth and David G. Booth, Michael A. Chesser, Johnna and Stephen Jones, The Still Water Foundation, Melba and Ted Whatley, Texas Monthly, Anonymous

2014 Exhibition Sponsors: Deborah Green and Clayton Aynesworth, Susan and Richard Marcus, Jane Schweppe, Diane Land and Steve Adler, Sue Ellen Stavrand and John Harcourt, Don Mullins, Austin Ventures, Amanda and Brad Nelsen, Pedernales Cellars, Gail and Rodney Susholtz, Lora Reynolds and Quincy Lee, Janet and Wilson G. Allen, Shalini Ramanathan and Chris Tomlinson, Teresa and Darrell Windham, Oxford Commercial, Vinson & Elkins LLP, Lindsey and Mark HannaAdditional Support Generously Provided By: ACL Live at The Moody Theater, Pedernales Cellars, Luxe Interiors + Design, The Texas Tribune, Hotel Saint Cecilia, Hotel San Jose, W Austin, Four Seasons Hotel Austin, The Austin Chronicle, KUT/KUTX

Support for Orly Genger provided by The Moody Foundation.

Maurizio Cattelan, Frank and Jamie, 2002. Wax and clothes. 75 5/8 inches and 72 1/2 inches. Courtesy the artist and Marian Goodman Gallery.

MAY 3 – AUGUST 24, 2014A Secret Affair: Selections from the Fuhrman Family CollectionMatthew Barney, Louise Bourgeois, Maurizio Cattelan, Katharina Fritsch, Robert Gober, Felix Gonzalez-Torres, Subodh Gupta, David Hammons, Jim Hodges, Anish Kapoor, Jim Lambie, Ron Mueck, Juan Muñoz, Marc Quinn, Charles Ray, Thomas Schütte, Yinka Shonibare MBE, Kiki Smith, Gillian WearingJones Center and Laguna Gloria

Orly Genger: CurrentLaguna Gloria

MAY 2, 2014Members’ Preview of A Secret Affair at the Jones Center 6 – 8P

Page 46: The May Food Issue

[ Chef Chris ]

[ Chef Plinio ]

1900 University Avenue · atx TheCarillonRestaurant.com 404.3655 Facebook /The CarillonRestaurant Twitter@CarillonAustin

modern. sophisticated. surprising.

SERIOUS ABOUT TASTE. Our award-winning culinary team invites you to create your own tasting experience.

New small plate menus with an Austin style. Plate swapping encouraged.

[ Chef Christopher]

instagram.com/carillonaustin

Page 48: The May Food Issue

TRiBEZ AtAlka n I n s I d e r ' s g u i d e to A u s t i n ' s h i d d e n g e m s .

k At AnD rog er Cer A miC DriPPer CuP from spartan, $42 | spartan-shop.com

215 s. lamar, suite d

hAnDm ADe oA x AC An esPresso siPPer By om Ar hern AnDeZ

at jm drygoods, $18 | jmdrygoods.com215 s. lamar, suite c

PorCel Ain Coffee sCooP from mockingbird domestics, $15

mockingbirddomestics.com | 2151 s. lamar

by l e i g h Pat t e r s o n

Gear Head:t h r ee u n i q u e co ffee Acce s so r i e s

wo rt h co n si d er i n g o n so u t h L A m A r

l o C A l g e m s

stA nD By your mug :CeRAMiCiST RYAN MCkeRLeY oN The PeRFeCT CoFFee CuPAs a maker, I approach every object from a very technical and func-

tional perspective. My perfect mug starts off as a cylinder with almost

straight sides, as wide as it is tall. Picture the profile view of this mug

filling up a square frame. These proportions create stability with no

wasted space. I consider every part of the mug that a person touch-

es. The handle should resemble a strap that would make an excellent

waist belt—no bumps or sharp edges—and feels good in your hand.

A thin, rounded rim is just as important as the handle in creating a

pleasant drinking experience. My perfect mug holds 1.5 cups of coffee.

I also want an ultra-smooth interior that’s easy to clean.

I make coffee mugs that I would want to use myself. About half the

time, I drink coffee out of my work and the rest of the time, I use cups

from my large collection of North American studio pottery made by

my friends and colleagues.

I don’t insist on “handmade.” A well-designed factory-made coffee

mug is always welcome at my house. Lately I have been using two cups

that were “made in China.” My Pantone coffee mug (137 C Melon Yel-

low) always makes me smile in the morning.

Photog r a Phy by m ich a el a . m u ller

finD ryAn’s Work At tAke

heArt (1111 e. 11th street)

Coffee mug, $35

ryAnmCkerley.Com

46 may 2014 tribeza.com

Page 49: The May Food Issue

Jenny mulDerowner, sister coffee

seAn henryowner, houndstooth coffee

mAtt BolliCkco-owner, flat track coffee

What's your favorite brewing method?

What piece of coffee-brewing equipment do you swear by?

What's the proper amount of time to wait post-boil to pour over?

go-to bag of beans?

give me one piece of advice for mak-ing a better cup of coffee at home.

What's your signa-ture drink?

While i use the pour-over brewing method at Sister, at home i like the French press. it might not be as refined or even taste as good, but it’s simple and reminds me of go-ing camping with my family.

if you want a dramatic improvement in your coffee, grind your beans right before you make your coffee and use a nice grinder. You don't need to spend hundreds of dollars; the hario hand-crank grinder is a great starting point and only costs about $40.

You don't want to pour boiling water on your ground beans, but you want the water to be almost boiling; around 190-200 degrees. Af-ter the kettle boils i pull it off the heat and wait around 30 seconds before starting the pour.

blue bottle's Three Africans ($9.50 for 8 ounces). it's a blend of coffee from uganda and ethiopia, and it's the crowd pleaser of Sister. it's the bag i give as gifts as it will hold up nicely in any brewing method.

Get things as fresh as possible. Check the roast date on your beans (you'll get the best flavors 3-10 days after the roast date), grind your coffee right before you brew, and don't let your coffee get old sitting in a coffee urn.

NoLA iced coffee: cold-brewed with chicory, sweetened just a bit with home-made simple syrup and served with milk ($3.50)

it’s as seasonal as the coffees i like: i was into the koNe system for the Chemex for a while, then we got some new French presses with a finer filter and i loved the ease and taste of those.

A great grinder can do so much for really dialing in your coffee. At our store we have three different types of grinders, each tuned to a specific purpose—espresso, bulk grind-ing, and by-the-cup options.

ideally about 205 is a great brewing temp. Lots of kettles come with holes in the top so you can use a thermometer. but, in terms of post-boiling, once the big bubbles stop bouncing around.

Life's too short to settle for cof-fee that's last year's crop or dull in flavor: Right now i'm really into Tweed's newly arrived YirgZ, a washed Yirgacheffe from ethio-pia ($17 for 12 ounces).

Create a rhythm that's good for you. Lots of people try to make things complicated and then don't end up doing any of them.

i’d say making coffee for my wife. Not that i do anything different than usual, but it is something that i enjoy doing for her. even when she gets up before me, she’ll wait for me to make the coffee . . . and i like that.

espresso and AeroPress

Mazzer Robur e espresso grinder. Those things kill it.

even at home it is always a good plan to know the temp of your water. i gener-ally brew my pour-overs at 209 and my AeroPresses have been varying a bit, from 185-201 degrees to taste.

Anything exciting really. There is so much wonderful coffee out there.

Spend the money and buy a nice grind-er. You will be so happy that you did. Also, take your time. brewing coffee is fun. it's a beautiful part of your day.

it’s more of two beverages served side by side. My buddy Wesley borden was feeling like 10 miles of bad road. Came by the brew and brew and said, “Gimme something awesome, stat.” it was 9 a.m. Made him a cortado with Flat Track kenya kakai, poured him half a snifter of Petrus Aged Pale. Justin Cox saw it and said, “Well, that’s gotta be called the brew and brew,” so it stuck as an off-menu item.

sistereverything.Com hounDstoothCoffee.Com fl Attr ACkCoffee.Com

Coffee Q+A

tribeza.com may 2014 47

Page 50: The May Food Issue

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Page 51: The May Food Issue

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Page 52: The May Food Issue

50 may 2014 tribeza.com

Former Texas monThly

ediTor Jake silversTein

Takes on ManhaTTan

and The World’s MosT

FaMous neWsrooMQ & a b y Pa u l a D i s b r o w ep h oTo g r a p h y b y l e a n n m u e l l e r

S h r i m p tac o S , b a r -

b e c u e d b r i S k e t, a n d

h i S f o r m e r S ta f f at

t e x a S m o n t h ly a r e

a m o n g t h e t h i n g S

S i lv e r S t e i n w i l l m i S S

a b o u t l i f e i n a u S t i n .

Page 53: The May Food Issue

tribeza.com may 2014 51

A fter a wide-ranging search that took months, on March 28 the new york times announced that Jake silverstein, who has served as the editor of texas monthly since

2008, would take the helm of the new york times magazine. his local fans and staff mourned the an-nouncement (“totally depressed,” an editor friend e-mailed), and emmis publishing, parent company of texas monthly, cast a bit of a pall on his departure by filing suit against The new york Times Company for allegedly breaching his contract with emmis.They have reason to grieve—under silverstein’s charge, texas monthly flourished and was nominated for 12 national Magazine awards and won four, in-cluding the general excellence prize. attention-get-ting features like “The 50 best bbQ Joints . . . in the World!,” were nominated for a 2014 national Magazine award. In the midst of his transition, just before he headed east, silverstein kindly took time to sit down with tribeZa and discuss his move. We’re sorry to see his creative vision leave austin, but excited about the dust that he will surely kick up in Manhattan.

First off, hearty congrats on your new post! i imagine it’s pretty difficult to turn down the New York Times. Did you jump at the opportunity, or did this move re-quire some serious deliberating?It was a tough decision. Leaving Austin, leaving

Texas, and leaving Texas Monthly is not some-

thing I had been planning on doing at all. I love

it here. So it took a lot of thought, but in the end,

this is just such an exciting opportunity that we

couldn’t pass it up.

when TRIBEZA featured you last July, you talked about how much you liked your sleepy brykerwoods neighborhood. How will you channel your inner green belt in midtown?Probably by living in Jersey.

are you working on a plan to clone Times contributor michael lewis so he can write every week?I’m hoping my good friends at A&M will handle

that for me.

is there a writer or columnist, not currently on the staff, who is a model for the kind of work you want to bring to the magazine?I tend to think that the best writers aren’t models of

other writers or of types of work. What makes them

great is the singularity of their voices. I will say that I

intend to publish as many of these kinds of voices as

I can. I love writers the way kids love candy.

which three types of stories are we going to see much less of?I’m going to refrain from answering “what’s next?”

questions until I’ve actually started.

besides finding the bathroom, what’s on your short list for your first day in renzo Piano’s new York Times building?Get Will Shortz to start giving me the answers to

the Saturday crossword on Fridays.

with your appointment, the Times plans to pull the magazine closer to the newsroom—can you elaborate on that?Not really. I don’t mean to be coy, but it would be

presumptuous of me to outline plans for this be-

fore I’m actually on the job. What I’ll say is that

the prospect of working closely with the greatest

newsroom on earth is incredibly exciting to me.

I’m still pinching myself about that.

You spent a chapter in nYC in the early nineties, when you met your wife. How did the city prepare you for your role at Texas Monthly? in turn, how have six years at TM prepared you for the New York Times Magazine?One thing always leads to another. Last time I was

in New York I was working at Harper’s, and that

certainly helped prepare me for the kind of literary

longform journalism we practice at Texas Month-

ly. My time here (eight years actually) taught me a

lot about the power of storytelling. Working with

great writers like Katy Vine, John Spong, Mike

Hall, Mimi Swartz, Pam Colloff, Sam Gwynne,

Nate Blakeslee, and the whole crew—it has really

shaped how I think about narratives. I’ve honest-

ly learned more from Skip Hollandsworth than I

could have from any journalism school. There’s

something else, too. Texas Monthly as a whole—

the spirit of the place that was instilled by Mike

Levy and imparted to me by Evan Smith—has

taught me something even more valuable: how

to create the conditions under which greatness

can be achieved. Mike demanded greatness and

so did Evan, but they did it in a menschy, famil-

ial, high-spirited way that coaxed the best out of

everyone around. Texas Monthly is a truly special

place. It’s a unique place. It’s a fun place. And if

I can carry just a small portion of that with me

wherever I go I’ll be lucky.

sure, you’re heading to the land of enviable bagels, but what tacos (or restaurants) are you going to dream about from your desk on eighth avenue? I’ll miss all barbecue and all above-average Tex-

Mex. Also the Baja Shrimp Taco at Torchy’s. Royal

Blue’s soups. Qui. The Counter Café. Fonda San

Miguel. And did I mention barbecue?

will you lament a lack of brisket features (and/or do you anticipate a flood of résumés applying for the po-sition of “barbecue editor”)?Applications have already been coming in via so-

cial media. Apparently Daniel Vaughn was onto

something.

would you wager that there’s another Texas chapter on your horizon?For sure. We still have a crumbling old adobe

house in Marfa that will keep us theoretically tied

to Texas for the foreseeable future. And the peo-

ple at Texas Monthly are family to me and always

will be. I’ll be around.

Community p r o f i l e

Page 54: The May Food Issue

52 may 2014 tribeza.com

What’sthe FutureoF Meals on Wheels?H a s t H e f o o d t r u c k c r a z e r u n i t s c o u r s e , o r i s i t j u s t r a m p i n g u p ?

t w o e x a m p l e s — a n e w b i e a n d a v e t e r a n — fac e o f f to p r e d i c t t H e f u -

t u r e o f t H e “ t r a i l e r a u n t. ”

b y e l i z a b e t h w i n s lo w | p h oto g r a p h y b y j e s s i c a pag e s

Welcome to the revolution. Kyoten’s Zen gar-

den dining “room” is set with handmade

wooden tables, low, flickering lamps, and

a ceiling of stars in a twilit sky. The food is

astonishingly good—cured, marinated, and

pressed Japanese mackerel sushi topped with

a thin film of kombu, silky handmade tofu in

a sweet soy dashi, butter mochi with balsamic

cherries and vanilla-kirsch cream. It’s almost

impossible to imagine that Otto Phan’s con-

cept is a direct descendant of the question-

able tacos sold from the back of a truck at

the construction site mere blocks away, but

in the past five years, Austin has indeed been

witness to an uprising the likes of which our

culinary community hasn’t seen since the 1841

Pig War at the French Legation. From the

humble and practical beginnings of our mo-

bile food scene, we’ve eaten French crepes and

corpulent doughnuts from Airstream trailers;

Indian dosas and cream-filled cupcakes on

South Congress; meticulously sourced farm-

Page 55: The May Food Issue

Otto Phan, Leo Ro-driguez and James Maiden opened Kyōten (Kee-Oh-ten), Austin’s only sushi trailer in the heart of E 6th.

Page 56: The May Food Issue

54 may 2014 tribeza.com

K y ō t e n

k y ot e n ’ s g a n g o f f o u r : ot to p H a n , j a m e s m a i d e n , l e o r o d r i g u e z , a n d b a k u

t H e r e s i d e n t a k i ta , n a m e d f o r t H e m y t H i c a l j a pa n e s e c r e at u r e w H o c o n -

s u m e s n i g H t m a r e s .

to-trailer duck eggs in a parking lot; and pizza

from a wood-burning oven on wheels.

The Peached Tortilla’s Eric Silverstein has

been part of the scene since its early days. Full

of hopes and dreams and a fiery yearning to

make his mark with the recipes he grew up

eating in Atlanta, he quit his job as an attorney

in 2010 and hit the road for Texas with a few

dollars in his pocket and an idea for a brand

he hoped might be scalable. In the years since,

his trucks have come to define what’s best

about food trucks in Austin: inventive food

(think kimchi arancini balls, bánh mi tacos,

and sweet and spicy Korean wings), a visual-

ly compelling brand, and competent, friendly

service. Four years in, he’s poised to open the

brick-and-mortar that’s been part of his plan

from the beginning.

What does his particular case study re-

veal about the viability and longevity of food

trucks? Now, in 2014, after tearing down the

walls of culinary convention, where do we find

ourselves? In the rubble of a dead-end scene

that trades inventive cuisine for varying de-

gres of quality and failed business plans? Or

on the cusp of a new world order, where lower

margins and overhead leave space for entre-

preneurial vision and creativity? Two popular

players (with diametrically opposed views of

the industry) speculate on the road ahead.

Page 57: The May Food Issue

tribeza.com may 2014 55

K y ō t e nKyoten serves ingredient-driven Japanese

food with a Jiro-like focus on rice. The miso

soup is made with the lees from sake-making,

and rice bowls and sushi are based on a rice

recipe perfected over years and impossible

to translate. Even the dessert—handcrafted

butter mochi—is made from sweet, starchy

pounded rice. The atmosphere is stylish and

lovely—the trailer sits in a Zen garden with

raked gravel, a fire pit, and swinging fairy

lights and lanterns.

How did the idea for Kyoten evolve?

Leo and I worked together at Imperia. We

went our separate ways a few years ago, but

always remained “frenemies,” each keeping up

with what the other was doing. Leo went on to

Sushi A-Go-Go, Kome, and Ramen Tatsu-Ya,

and I spent some time in New York at Masa

and Nobu. We’re both sushi rats, recycled

again and again at a bunch of different places.

When I came back to Austin, we reconnected

and started talking ideas.

I was pretty burned out from New York. I

thought maybe I would invest in Leo and we’d

do something small. As we talked, our ideas

grew and grew, and somewhere in there I got

my mojo back.

I was working at Uchi—it’s the most coveted

job in Austin. I thought I would stay there and

we’d do this project on the side, but this idea got

big enough that I had to leave to open it.

How did you make the decision to go with a per-

manent location with so much atmosphere for

Kyoten?

We had the trailer already. Once we started

talking about where to put it, we couldn’t re-

ally agree on the location. I didn’t want to go

into a trailer park because I didn’t want our

food to be equated with jalapeño poppers. We

are not mid-level trailer food. I wanted to of-

fer the best sushi in Austin. Leo didn’t want

to go behind a bar—he felt like we’d just be

serving drunk people out in the smoking sec-

tion. So I told him, “If you can think of a better

idea, go out and get it.”

One day, I was driving past Burro Cheese

Kitchen on South Lamar (another semi-per-

three of Kyoten’s signature dishes: battera, a cured, marinated pressed mackerel sushi, handmade silken tofu with sweet soy dashi and butter mochi with balsamic cherries and vanilla kirsch cream.

Page 58: The May Food Issue

56 may 2014 tribeza.com

manent, stylish “traileraunt” built in a ship-

ping container), and I thought, “That’s it!”

Leo was over here on East Sixth looking at a

possible location behind a bar and discovered

this lot. We called the owner, who happens to

be as picky as we are, and struck a deal. Our

third partner is James Maiden—he has exten-

sive construction experience. James and Leo

built out everything you see on our lot with

their own hands.

What’s next?

This is it. This concept isn’t a stepping-stone

to a brick-and-mortar or some other business

plan. It’s not about branding or menu devel-

opment. We are going to stay here and devel-

op this concept. As far as I’m concerned, we

are only 50 percent of the way there, but it’s

all going to happen right here, in this trailer.

I’m not building a scalable concept. Kyoten

is not designed to live without us. I’m the only

one who knows how to make rice. The process

isn’t even written down. This is about quali-

ty and the best sushi in Austin. I didn’t leave

Uchi to open the Torchy’s Tacos of sushi.

How do you deliver this menu from a trailer?

We use Ramen Tatsu-Ya’s commissary kitch-

en—we don’t need a six-burner stove or a 10-

man kitchen for our menu. I can do incredible

sushi anywhere. If I had a brick-and-mortar, I’d

be putting out the exact same menu. The only

thing I’m missing is the ability to sell alcohol.

What can you do here that you couldn’t do in a

brick-and-mortar?

From the very beginning, we’ve gotten consis-

tent five-star Yelp ratings because I get to see

everything. If anything is messed up, I see it

and I can fix it. There’s an immediate connec-

tion to both food and service in this context.

Besides the Zen garden dining area, what’s dif-

ferent about Kyoten?

Chef-driven trailers are a rarity. Kyoten is to-

tally ingredient-driven. We source the best fish,

all of it sustainably harvested. There are lots of

things we don’t offer because they are not sus-

tainable—unagi and bluefin tuna, for example.

t h e P e a c h e d t o r t i l l aThe Peached Tortilla serves “thought-out,

modernized Asian food with a Southern twist.”

The new brick-and-mortar, designed by Kevin

Stewart and slated to open on north Burnet

Road in the fall of this year, will fill a niche

for affordable, hip dining options for families

with a menu of rice bowls, small plates, and

street-to-table fare.

Several concepts started out mobile and moved

into wildly successful brick-and-mortar busi-

nesses. But lots of trucks and trailers don’t

make it. What makes the difference?

The “mobile food” business model is really

challenging. It’s not a real business. The own-

er does everything—if you can’t afford to pay

people, what kind of model is that? Because

everyone with a few thousand bucks to fund

their dream is jumping into the trailer busi-

ness, and because permits for actual street

vending in Austin are almost impossible to

get and really expensive, demand for spaces

is really high. The supply is limited, so rent is

ridiculously expensive. The smarter the op-

erators are, the better the deals are, but not

everybody thinks strategically. There are a lot

of hungry operators out there, willing to take

any deal thrown out to them.

Perception is very different from reality.

Unfortunately, doing it right takes a tremen-

dous amount of hard work and dedication.

And you have to be smart. For the long haul,

you can’t have a family, you can’t have a signif-

icant other, you can’t have much of a life out-

side the truck. That rules out a lot of people.

How has your business model changed since you

started?

We don’t actually do much mobile vending

anymore. Most of our money comes from ca-

tering and special events. It’s hard to make a

living with mobile vending because we’re not

a l m o s t f o u r y e a r s a f t e r o p e n i n g H i s f i r s t f o o d t r u c k , t H e p e ac H e d to r t i l l a f o u n d e r e r i c s i lv e r -s t e i n s ta n d s i n t H e s pac e t H at w i l l b e t H e p e ac H e d to r t i l l a’ s b r i c k a n d m o r ta r r e s ta u r a n t.

Page 59: The May Food Issue
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58 may 2014 tribeza.com

able to collect on high-margin items like alcohol.

After a year and a half of not paying myself, I had

to get creative with this business model. We re-

branded—I hired a high-end graphic designer

and committed to doing way more than what we

could do from the truck. We have put a lot of re-

sources into catering sales.

I’ll never get rid of the trucks, though. In fact,

we might get another one soon. They will always

be an important piece of our branding. Peo-

ple want trucks at their weddings and high-end

events. As long as the mobile food scene stays hot,

we will keep getting asked to special events where

we can make money.

Do you see any big shifts coming in the near

future?

No, not really. I think there will always be new

people coming in. For most people, it’s a dead

end, but the barriers to entry are low, and hopes

and dreams are powerful. If you could see your

hopes and dreams realized for $25,000, wouldn’t

you go for it?

What would you change about the past four years?

I don’t think I’d do anything different. When I

quit my job and moved to Austin, I was so high

on myself and my idea I thought I’d be in a brick-

and-mortar in 12 months. Well, here I am, 42

months in. I think as a community, it’s made our

culinary scene more creative, but I don’t know

that it’s brought much in the way of quality to our

community.

e r i c p o s i n g i n H i s n e w, u n d e r c o n -s t r u c t i o n lo c a-t i o n t H at i s b e i n g d e s i g n e d b y lo c a l a r c H i t e c t, k e v i n s t e wa r t.

Page 61: The May Food Issue

t h e P e a c h e d t o r t i l l a

The Peached Tortilla truck at the Cedar farmer’s market (before the giant line formed). An assort-ment of delicious-fries: Belgian, Bacon Jam and Sweet Po-tato. Manager Beto Solis serving another happy customer. The BBQ brisket and crunchy fish tacos are always a hit.

Page 62: The May Food Issue

60 may 2014 tribeza.com

A u s t i n ’ s Acc l A i m e d c h e f d i s h e s o n o u r r e d - h ot f o o d s c e n e, w h At ’ s n e x t f o r t e A m u c h i , A n d fAc i n g t h e u lt i m At e c h A l l e n g e— co o k i n g f o r fA m i ly.

Page 63: The May Food Issue

pizzanightwithtysoncole

by pA u l A d i s b r o w ep h oto g r A p h y by w y n n m y e r s

Page 64: The May Food Issue

62 may 2014 tribeza.com

Page 65: The May Food Issue

tribeza.com may 2014 63

The chef brushes crusts with olive oil while mini sous chefs (Amelia and Larkin) plan their attack. A flurry of pies ensue, Rebekkah serves slices and then the proud bakers gather around the table.

tyson cole is expediting dinner, but

not in his usual fashion. It’s a cool spring eve-

ning and the chef is spending a night off or-

chestrating pizza service for his five favorite

girls. Rebekkah, his pretty wife, sets the table

and sips a glass of red wine. Wound up by the

audience, Esther, their Labradoodle, makes a

few mad dashes through the kitchen, her nails

sliding on the slick tile.

Although the odds are against him, Cole

attempts to impart some culinary wisdom to

his four-year-old daughter, Amelia. “I think

too many cucumber slices might water down

your pizza, honey.” Amelia does not welcome

his suggestion.

While Cole’s daughters (Aubrie, 10, Larkin,

6, and Amelia) busy themselves with small

bowls of colorful toppings (sweet peppers,

fresh mozzarella, mushrooms, and chive blos-

soms), the chef drizzles impromptu antipasti

of artichoke hearts, sliced apples, and straw-

berries with olive oil and a sprinkling of por-

cini salt from Williams-Sonoma (“my favor-

ite new condiment,” Cole says, handing me a

plate). The simple but unexpected confluence

of sweet and savory is just the sort of culinary

risk taking that first put Uchi—and Austin’s

emerging food scene—on the map when it

opened in 2003.

You might say that Cole’s career has been

forged through juxtapositions. He’s the white

guy who speaks Japanese and trained under

sushi masters. He created a sashimi mecca

smack in the middle of landlocked Texas. And

his signature pairings of global ingredients

with traditional Japanese flavors (think goat

cheese, citrus oil, and raw sea bass) attracted

talent like chef Paul Qui, and a host of others,

who have since passed through his doors and

infiltrated kitchens throughout Austin.

And even when he’s making smiley face piz-

zas with rounds of pepperoni and basil leaves,

it’s hard to miss the precise hands and attention

to detail that have earned him a Food & Wine

Best New Chef 2005 recognition and a James

Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest in 2011.

These days Cole is rolling with life’s transi-

tions. He is moving from his West Lake home

for another location that is closer to his kids’

school and promises a less painful commute.

Partnerships with the Austin Food & Wine

Festival have made him a high-profile ambas-

sador of the local food scene. And later this

year he’ll open St. Philip, an Italian restaurant

and bakery with chef Philip Speer. While pies

bubbled and crisped in the oven, we chatted

about food and family.

Has parenting influenced your approachto food?Absolutely, making food is all about suste-

nance and health. I’ve always been focused

on that, but having children really reinforces

it. Cooking is about kindness, generosity, and

doing the best with what you’ve got. In that

way cooking is in tandem with having both

kids and guests.

You noticed that the pizzas your daughters made

are indicative of their personalities. I guess that’s true of all cooks, right?People’s personalities do come through in

what they like to eat, whether they are ad-

venturous or conservative. Larkin will eat

any color, while my oldest is terrified of color.

She likes to eat earth tones and beiges. You

see that with guests at the restaurant too. We

try to push them and expand their horizons,

while still allowing them to feel comfortable

about being there.

It must be difficult to leave the streamlined effi-ciency of your restaurants for the inevitable chaos of cooking with young kids.Restaurant execution is so hard—don’t get

me wrong, but it’s so well achieved because

it’s so very planned, and the preparation is so

specific. It’s much more chaotic at the house,

figuring out each day what the kids are going

to like, or how many snacks they’ve had and if

they’re going to eat at all. It’s a moving target.

I returned to Uchi a few weeks ago and had an amazing experience--both the food and the service were extraordinary. How have you kept the restau-rant vibrant and on top of its game?Uchi is better than it’s ever been. Both the

kitchen staff and the front-of-house staff are

killing it. The reputation that we’ve built has

allowed us to attract really great talent.

Believe it or not, upwards of 30 percent of

our guests are first-timers. We know there’s a

whole lot of people who haven’t been to Uchi.

Austin is growing so quickly that the playing

field changes by the day. There are so many

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new people here, and so many new places to

try. In a way that’s our favorite guest—we get

to say welcome, nice to meet you, let us feed

you dinner.

In my opinion, Austin can err on the side of putting high concept before solid, back-of-house training. Any thoughts on that?Hospitality is not about pressed linens, it’s

about creating a connection and making cus-

tomers feel welcome. Budding restaurateurs

tend to wrap their minds around a concept

that appeals to them. All too often, they love

the idea of it and don’t think through the steps

that will make it successful. That’s the hard-

est part—understanding how you’re going to

hire, train, etc. It’s hard as a beginner in the

field to connect all the dots.

What did Uchiko teach you about the local food scene?That we were presumptuous to think that we

could move uptown and instantly share Uchi’s

fan base. We learned that Austin is somewhat

provincial, and not everyone in North Central

was immediately on board. People don’t nec-

essarily venture beyond their zip codes. It took

a while, and the first year was rough, but we

eventually found our local audience. Today we

really focus on the neighborhood. Those locals

are our favorite guests, and the ones we hope

become regulars.

What are three dishes you can’t take off the menu?At Uchi it’s tuna and goat cheese, hamachi

cure, and peanut butter semifreddo.

A lot of big-name chefs and restaurateurs are de-scending on Austin. How will those outside influences meld with Austin’s “keeping it local” food scene?The smart people that are coming here are

interested in understanding and fitting into

our community. Danny Meyer and his con-

cept “Shake Shack” (poised to open on South

Lamar later this year) is an example. People

coming here just to make quick cash will not

survive because of the incredible competition

we have now.

What are a few of your current ingredient obsessions? Green almonds and pears. I love the versatil-

ity of pears—they’re all over my menu. The

almonds are incredibly seasonal, but they are

extradordinary. There’s nothing like opening a

husk and finding a fresh almond that’s plump

and juicy.

What’s your perfect meal these days?I’m pretty simple--a great salad and roasted

chicken.

Your next venture is St. Philip, with chef Philip Speer. What can we expect?St. Philip will be a restaurant and bakery.

We’re testing the pastries and pizza crusts

now, and they’re phenomenal. We’ll offer dif-

ferent types of experiences that we’ll serve at

different times of the day to an underserved

area. The exciting thing for us is to try our

hand at something entirely new, an Italian

concept.

The traffic just prompted you to move from your home in West Lake to South Austin. What’s the se-cret to avoiding road rage in growing Austin?Keeping a tighter orbit to work and home, and

being able to drive places at off-peak times.

Also, having lived here for more than 20 years,

I know the secret shortcuts.

You confessed that your family are your toughest critics. How is that so?In my restaurants, the people who walk in the

door are already on board with what we do.

We’d have to work hard to disappoint them.

When you cook for your family, for the peo-

ple you love, the emotional stakes are so much

higher. Disappointing them has a much great-

er impact.

And yet, there’s no place like home, right?It’s the most fulfilling place to cook because

there are no rules, no sous chefs, and I have

complete creative freedom to cook whatever I

want. Of course, the real beauty of it is cooking

Happy Hours: For Cole a nights off-the-clock mean time for back yard tomfoolery and the pleasure of cooking for people you love.

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FrenchLessons

by S. k i r k wa l S h | p h oto g r a p h y by dag n y p i a S ec k iS t y l i n g by a S h l e y h o r S l e y | h a i r + m a k e u p by l i n d S e y h a r v e y

W i t h a s u b t L e P r o v e n ç a L Pa L e t t e a n d a d m i r a b L e a P Lo m b , l a v u n c o r k s a n e W

k i n d o f f r e n c h r e s ta u r a n t a n d W i n e b a r o n e a s t s e v e n t h s t r e e t.

Page 69: The May Food Issue

Dressed in a Rachel Com-ey dress ($442), Sigerson morrison shoes ($395), and Weimar necklace ($335) from Valentine’s Too, mazaite holds court under a field of lavender.

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On a recent Saturday

evening, the elegant

interior of laV bustles

with the hushed but

animated buzz of the

weekend crowd. To-

night’s guests, among them a private party of

a dozen or so people, are seated throughout

the four distinct areas—tasting room, lounge,

dining room, and wine cellar. A delicate but

decisive palette of pewter, taupe, and olive

green permeates the entire restaurant’s beau-

tiful decor.

Above the full bar, an expansive black-and-

white landscape painting of a French laven-

der field at dawn seems to answer the 22-acre

Texas State Cemetery, visible through the

broad glass windows, across the street, with

its majestic live oaks and undulating grassy

knolls lined at one end with unwavering rows

of headstones. In the center of the lounge, an

enormous crystal-cut chandelier hangs from

the exposed industrial ceiling. On each ta-

bletop, simple sprays of purple lavender are

displayed in solid, charcoal-gray vases. Each

well-thought-out detail of the restaurant

seemingly represents a call-and-response of

masculine and feminine accents.

Upon our arrival, my husband and I are

greeted by laV’s managing partner and ad-

vanced sommelier, Vilma Mazaite. She is

dressed in beige cigarette-leg pants, a diaph-

anous coral blouse, and a short-waisted blue

blazer, with ballet slippers of pale pink with

navy blue noses and heels. Her presence is

warm and animated. Not surprisingly, the cui-

sine and wine of laV echo the refined atmo-

sphere of the restaurant, a deliberate tone set

by Mazaite and her team, led by owners Ralph

and Lisa Eads, and chef Allison Jenkins and

executive pastry chef Janina O’Leary.

Our meal begins with a rustic charcuterie

board, with the highlight being a chicken liver

pâté with pear compote. For an appetizer, we

try a small plate of farm egg and mushroom

raviolo with a delicate consommé, making

for a simple yet sophisticated suite of earthy

flavors. For the main entrée, my husband and

I split laV’s signature dish of wood-roasted

chicken served with salsa verde and roasted

fingerling potatoes. With a nod to the popu-

lar Zuni Café in San Francisco, Jenkins and

Mazaite voted on the wood-roasted chick-

en after the decision was made to outfit the

restaurant’s kitchen with a Wood Stone bis-

tro oven. “The preparation involves a twen-

ty-four-hour salt process,” explains Jenkins.

“ThaT ’s why The food speaks many languag-es. IT ’s very sImple, buT of course, Simple iS The haRDeST Thing To Do.”- Vilma Mazaite

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The restaurant’s elegant wine room is laV’s most intimate space for din-ing. Chef Allison Jenkins works on her prep list.

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the epitome of French style, mazaite sports a Vince leather jacket ($1,050), lily aldridge for Velvet shirt ($80) and J. Brand white denim ($198), all from Valentine’s Too.

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in a rare moment of down time, pastry chef Janina o’leary, chef allison Jenkins, and mazaite take a seat (and get a little silly) at the bar.

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tribeza.com may 2014 73

“Salt and time—literally that’s all there is to

it.” (Other culinary inspirations for Jenkins’s

menu include Patricia Wells, author of many

French cookbooks, such as Patricia Wells at

Home in Provence, and London’s River Café,

run by chef Ruth Rogers.) For dessert, we or-

der a sumptuous chocolate delice, sprinkled

with dainty edible violets, with a scoop of dis-

tinctive Earl Grey ice cream, and robust cups

of French-pressed Blue Bottle coffee.

As we enjoy our meal, Mazaite seamlessly

works the restaurant, chatting with dinner

guests, answering questions about the wine

list, and discreetly replacing folded napkins.

“We want to be warm and approachable,” says

Mazaite. “That’s why the food speaks many

languages. It’s very simple, but of course, sim-

ple is the hardest thing to do. It’s all about

the ingredients. You can’t hide behind sauce,

foam, or anything like that. It’s straightfor-

ward food.”

To enhance and complement the culinary

experience, guests have an opportunity to

choose a bottle or wine-by-the-glass from

an encyclopedic list, with the guidance of

Mazaite and her two sommeliers, Darren

Scott and Rania Zayyat. The wine list ranges

from more than 500 Burgundies to an unusu-

al selection of vintage Napas. “Our goal wasn’t

to have the biggest wine list in Austin,” ex-

plains Mazaite. “It’s more that we had a point

of view.” Owner Ralph Eads, a Houston-based

investment banker and entrepreneur, is a

dedicated oenophile, with a large personal

collection of his own. His vision and enthu-

siasm for opening an Austin restaurant with

a leather banquette in the bar is the perfect spot to watch the light fade; the plush and elegant dining room is the setting for a more serious meal.

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an extensive wine program was the starting

point for all things laV. In fact, some of the

selections in the 1,200-label wine cellar and

tasting bar are handpicked by Eads himself.

Mazaite herself developed an early passion for

wine, growing up in Lithuania. She moved to

the United States in 2001, and began to work

in restaurants under Rajat Paar, Mario Batali

(at Babbo), and Paul Bartolotta in Las Vegas.

Eads owned the parcel of land on East Sev-

enth Street, and when the time came to ex-

plore the possibility of building and opening a

restaurant, he enlisted the talents of Mazaite

and Jenkins, who were then working at As-

pen’s Little Nell. Later, O’Leary was brought

onto the team, and together they worked to

make Eads’s vision a reality, creating one of

Austin’s most anticipated and elegant restau-

rants. During the coming summer, laV plans

to offer a series of wine-education classes, and

in the fall, the adjacent garden will be culti-

vated for herbs and vegetables as well as be-

ing available as a space for private parties and

banquets.

“We want to do better each day,” says

Mazaite. “We measure ourselves to ourselves,

not with who’s next door. With a new place,

there is so much we need to fix and change to

get better. You have to reinvent yourself.”

The name, laV, is a shortened version of the

French expression la vie, or “life.” “We thought

it might work because the restaurant is locat-

ed right across the street from a cemetery,”

says Mazaite, “but we didn’t want to be too

literal.” All in all, laV certainly brings some-

thing new and refreshing to Austin’s evolving

restaurant landscape. “It’s not just about the

food or the wine,” adds Jenkins. “It’s about a

whole lifestyle.”

mazaite wears a vintage designer dress with a Cosmic Code necklace ($1,315) from Valentine’s Too.

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tribeza.com may 2014 75

“ We measure ourselVes To ourselVes , not With Who’s next door.”- Vilma Mazaite

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Pass the Parmesan: Their comfort-inspired dinner in-cludes spring asparagus, an enticing bowl of spaghetti and meatballs, and cubes of crusty bread speckled with flaky salt.

Page 79: The May Food Issue

austin tables

TV Dinnersb y p a u l a d i s b r o w e | p h o t o g r a p h y b y t h o m a s w i n s l o w

In Highland Hills, an impromptu dinner party serves up an Italian-inspired feast (to be eaten from your lap), free flowing

Amarone, and the chance to heckle your BFF on television.

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When Meredith Walker lived in Manhattan

and worked as head of the talent depart-

ment for Saturday Night Live, she was

used to the random, after-hours meet-

ings that producer Lorne Michaels would

schedule at, say, one in the morning. On one such occasion, the crew

was gathered to meet a potential hire, a perky blonde named Amy Poe-

hler. The laughs came easily that night, and throughout the close-knit,

marathon workdays that followed they never really stopped. “During

show weeks at SNL, hours are intense and we spend so much time to-

gether that it feels somewhere between a slumber party and the reality

TV series Deadliest Catch,” Walker says.

She and Poehler quickly became allies. “There was just that base, dis-

tinct comfort that comes when you meet someone who will be your best

friend,” says Walker. “We make each other laugh, for sure, but there

was a deep ability to support each other in a high-stress atmosphere that

made us solid then, and continues. We are very much like sisters, and that

means we make it through very cranky, grumpy times as well as the funny,

lovely times.” To keep themselves busy during lag times on the set, they

took a knitting class, and over coils of colored yarn and flying needles, their

stories unfolded.

Among the many things they discussed were their audacious and brave

girlhood selves. They wondered how gutsy aspirations born in preteen

years too often acquiesce into something more compliant around the time

mascara emerges. A determination to reclaim and preserve that early in-

domitable spirit in other girls led to Smart Girls at the Party (amysmart-

girls.com), the blog they launched in 2008 with their friend Amy Miles.

Since then, Smart Girls has become a growing online network and com-

munity. Thanks to Poehler’s A-list celeb factor, her name gets the most

play, but when it comes to the clever content, Walker is steering the ship.

a blend of three ground meats (sirloin, lamb, and pork), chopped onion, parsley and fresh basil provide depth of flavor in designer Joel mozersky’s signature meatball recipe.

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Tom Emery, Walker, and Elizabeth Winslow sip, snack, and swap one-lin-ers in Mozersky’s kitchen.

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The more hands, the bet-ter (meatballs are shaped and browned in a skillet before being submerged in a simmering tomato sauce). Steaming noodles are drained in an antique copper colander.

mozersky’s rich sauce is perfumed with a scatter-ing of fresh basil. Spears of asparagus are topped with feta, walnuts, and lemon vinaigrette.

Page 83: The May Food Issue

Walker learned to make chess pie from her mentor Linda Ellerbee. “When I worked for Linda Ellerbee, we were close friends and she’d al-ways have me out to her home in the Berkshires where we would spend most of our time in the kitchen. That is where I made my first chess pie and I’ve been making the same one ever since,” Walker says.

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Smart Girls is also earning industry accolades. Last

month it was honored with a Shorty Award for “Tum-

blr of the Year.” Their traveling road shows (that include

motivational talks and empowering panels) provide ad-

ditional ways for their fan base to engage (as do online

initiatives ranging from poetry contests to profiles of

gutsy stunt girls).

In 2006, after years in television, Walker was ready for

a less frenetic pace. “While I worked for Linda Ellerbee at

Nick News, I’d produced several stories in Austin using an

outstanding production company called Texas Crew,” she

says. “Through the years we’d become close friends, and I

knew I could freelance for them. I had such happy mem-

ories of Austin, I just knew it was the best place to try a

different life.”

For Walker, that translated to a place where people who

do entirely different things gather around a table and en-

joy great food and conversation. As luck would have it,

she found plenty of that. She amassed a group of friends,

met her domestic partner, Tom Emery, a tennis coach at

the South Austin Tennis Center, and together they started

cooking up a storm.

“We don’t have kids, and our relationship has so much

to do with our time in the kitchen,” Walker explains. “Tom

once spelled I’m sorry on a pita bread as an apology, using

peanut butter and a straw. Connecting over food is ever

present in our life.”

And once a week or so, she gets together with pal Joel

Mozersky, the interior design guru, for their version of

TV dinners. These casual meals provide an opportuni-

ty to catch up on episodes of Parks and Recreation, in

which Poehler stars as Leslie Knope, a midlevel bureau-

crat in the parks department of a fictional town in Indi-

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tribeza.com may 2014 83

“my favorite thing about these evenings is just being with meredith,” mozersky says. His coffee table provides a laid back spot for everyone to feast and relax; Peggy, one of mozersky’s four lively pooches dreams of a dropped snack.

ana. “I love the Lou Grant/Mary Richards-ness of Ron and Leslie,”

Walker says. “Most of all, I love Leslie Knope’s optimism and deter-

mination, and the fact that Amy made Leslie Knope’s birthday the

same as mine, January 18th.”

On a recent Saturday evening, Joel simmers meatballs made of

ground pork, sirloin, and lamb in a rich tomato sauce. A large round

of sourdough is scored, brushed with olive oil, and toasted in the

oven. Their friend Elizabeth Winslow (communications director for

the Sustainable Food Center, and TRIBEZA contributor) tops spears

of blanched asparagus with walnuts, feta, fresh herbs, and lemon

vinaigrette. Amarone flows freely. “Once over dinner at Del Posto,

Mario Batali told me that Amarone is the wine that inspires conver-

sation,” Meredith says between sips.

Once the meatballs have cooked through and enriched the sauce,

they’re ladled over a tangle of noodles. Tom refills wine glasses and ev-

eryone heads to the living room to grab a seat under a gallery of vintage

dog portraits. Joel’s four real-life dogs—Alfie, Rudy, Peggy, and Cha-

Cha—hop on the couch and settle in suspiciously close to the meatballs.

Forks twirl strands of spaghetti and spear asparagus, crusty bread

sops up the rest, and laughs once again come easily. It’s a quick-wit-

ted, snarky crew, just the kind of people you want to be with when

you’re lobbing one-liners at the television. For dessert, there’s just-

baked buttermilk chess pie that Walker learned to make from Linda

Ellerbee. The easy joy of the evening makes me think of Walker’s

ultimate hope for Smart Girls—that it teaches people that you never

look stupid while you’re having fun.

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R e ly i n g o n p u n c h y i n g R e d i -

e n t s ( b e e t i c e c R e a m , b i t-

t e R a m a R o ) , a n d a g e n e R a l

s e n s e o f w h i m s y, t h e c R e w

at Q u i s h a k e u p i c e c R e a m

d R i n k s ( j u s t f o R u s ! ) w i t h a

f R e s h u R b a n e d g e .

Page 87: The May Food Issue

tribeza.com may 2014 85

D r i n k Y o u rD e s s e r t

r e c i p e s b y M o n i c a G l e n n & r a c h e l D e l r o c c o o f Q u i p h o t o G r a p h y b y a D a M V o r h e e s | s t y l i n G b y r o b i n f i n l a y

Make no Mistake—these are not your grandmother’s

grasshoppers. When we asked two talents from Qui (pastry cook

Monica Glenn and bartender Rachel Del Rocco), Paul Qui’s in-

novative fine dining restaurant, to help us kick off summer with

a few creamy, boozy cocktails, we knew they’d deliver something

extraordinary. “We don’t really have a pastry chef,” Monica ex-

plains. “I work with Paul and our chef de cuisine, Jorge Hernan-

dez, in developing the pastry menu. When we were given this

project, I pulled out all my favorite frozen goodies that we’ve been

working on, and trusted Rachel’s cocktail-building savvy to pull

it all together, which she did beautifully. ” The stunning results

rely on of-the-moment flavors showcased in unexpected ways. We

can’t think of a better way to end a meal, or kick off summer. In

other words, we’re thirsty.

cobbler JaMMakes 1 DrinkNote: A cobbler is traditionally a 19th century cocktail made with fortified wine and fruit.Monica: Strawberries recently came in season here in Texas, so I’ve been spending a lot of time preserving and jamming while the opportunity allows. At Qui we serve a strawberry-ginger-beer jam, but you can use any good-quality strawberry jam as a replacement.

rachel:A cobbler is just the perfect spring drink, refreshing and fruity. I recently saw a woman at a bar digging out the fruit of her cobbler and that’s exactly what that is supposed to be—a sunny day, porch crusher!

1 1/2 ounces London dry gin (such as Fords)1/4 ounce dry Curaçao3/4 ounce simple syrupSpoonful of strawberry jam (Qui uses a house-made strawberry-ginger-beer jam)Lemon granitaStrawberry sorbetFresh berries, for garnishCombine the gin, Curaçao, simple syrup, and strawberry jam in a cocktail shaker filled with crushed ice. Shake vigorously, then pour into an old-fashioned glass. Garnish with a spoonful of lemon granita, a scoop of strawberry sorbet, and fresh fruit.

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beet siDecarMakes 1 Drink

M: my very first job was at a novelty ice cream shop called malcolm’s, and this drink is loosely based on my favorite treat there. I love the com-bination of the bright, earthy beet ice cream with the warm caramel notes of the brandy.

r: a sidecar is a classic cocktail made with Cognac or brandy, orange liqueur, and lemon juice, and monica came up with this one substituting beet ice cream for the sweet component. It worked really well, especially with a nice, tart soda. It changed the entire drink and was just delicious.

1 ounce brandy or Cognac1/2 ounce turbinado sugar syrup3/4 ounce fresh lemon juiceSoda water3/4 ounce slightly melted beet ice cream (see note)Strip of candied grapefruit peelCombine the brandy, syrup, and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker. Shake well, pour into a wine glass, and top with a splash of soda water, a scoop of beet ice cream, and a strip of candied grapefruit peel.Note: Roasted Beet and fresh mint ice cream is available at Lick Ice Creams for $8/pint. (2032 S Lamar Blvd, ilikelick.com).

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thai iceD teaMakes 1 Drink

M:Working in the service industry, I am no stranger to highly caffeinated, sweet and creamy Thai iced tea, so when Rachel suggested pairing it with our vanilla sansho ice cream, flavored with Japanese spice, it made perfect sense. you can also use reg-ular vanilla ice cream seasoned with a few grindings of sichuan pepper.

r: made with condensed milk, a boozy rum and spicy ice cream, this is like a Tiki-inspired break-fast-milkshake.

1 ounce El Dorado 5 year (Demerara rum)1 ounce Smith & Cross (Navy Strength Jamai-can rum)1 ounce steeped Thai tea3/4 ounce crème de cacao1/2 ounce orgeat1 teaspoon (or more to taste) sweetened condensed milkBest-quality vanilla ice creamCombine the rums, tea, crème de cacao, orgeat, and milk in a Collins glass. add crushed ice and stir. Top with a scoop of the ice cream and serve.

Page 91: The May Food Issue

sbaGliato floatMakes 1 DrinkM: I have a special place in my heart for any-thing Italian and anything bubbly. an amer-icano is one of my favorite cocktails to drink and a Sbagliato (a negroni made with sparkling wine, not gin) was on our menu recently. It was a no-brainer to add a citrusy sherbet to this and make some kind of float out of it.

r: One of the first ice creams I showed Ra-chel was this orange sherbet and it was a snap for her to work it into this cocktail. I just wish she had needed more time tweaking this one, so I

could’ve had more time tasting it!

1 ounce Gran Classico (or another bitter such as Compari or aperol)1 ounce Cocchi americano Rosa1/4 ounce honey simple syrup (made with 2 parts honey to 1 part water)Sparkling wineOrange sherbetCombine the ingredients in a Champagne flute, then top with a splash of Prosecco and a small scoop of orange sherbet.

Page 92: The May Food Issue

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Sarah McIntosh, Owner of épicerie

p r o f i l e i n style

from selecting a perfectly crisp bottle of Spanish Grenache Blanc to tracking down the richest

shade of cerulean blue paint for her daughter’s bedroom walls, Sarah McIntosh—owner of the Rosedale eatery

épicerie—knows what she likes.

It’s a sensibility evident in both the interiors of épicerie, the Paris-grocery-meets-New-Orleans-café that she

opened in late 2012, and the 1930s Cherrywood home she lives in with her husband, Jackson, and their three-

month-old daughter, Finley. “I know what I like,” McIntosh is quick to explain. “My style is clean, contempo-

rary, and elegant, with Old World character.”

Raised in Louisiana, McIntosh was educated at Austin’s chapter of Le Cordon Bleu culinary school and

vetted in externships at Thomas Keller’s esteemed California restaurants Bouchon and Ad Hoc. In Austin, she

worked for almost three years at Olivia before moving on to open épicerie, a restaurant with style and cuisine

that succinctly summarizes her culinary experience: it’s fried green tomatoes, Napa-style—familiar dishes con-

structed from high-quality and expertly sourced ingredients, all set to an effortlessly stylish background. Think

clean white Windsor-style chairs paired with simple wooden farm tables; tidy rows of hard-to-find artisanal

sundries (Santa Rosa Plum and Flowering Thyme Jam, anyone?); perfect interior lighting that feels at once

warm and crisp; and plenty of rich, timeless materials like marble, copper, and leather. McIntosh made many

of the decisions about the restaurant’s interiors herself, along with architectural design from the office of Mi-

chael Hsu.

At McIntosh’s home—a modest two-bedroom house on a quiet street—the eye for detail is carried over. Her

interior design strategy has been to spend money where it counts, on details like the perfect shade of paint or

the right texture for curtain material; it’s her attention to subtleties like this that makes the home feel both

comfortable and cohesive. Sarah and Jackson have moved slowly in redesigning aspects of the house, a lesson

in combining intentional investments with thoughtful, aesthetic-elevating DIY projects. Most recently, they

completed an overhaul of Finley’s nursery, incorporating lots of rich, dark tones, refurbished wood furniture,

and well-placed pops of yellow. McIntosh constructed a stylish glider by affixing a swivel attachment to the base

of a vintage chair. Next on the list is the master bedroom, and then, McIntosh interjects hopefully, “a kitchen

upgrade!” She rattles off names of luxury appliances, then laughs and says, “Maija Kreishman [senior architect

with Michael Hsu] said I had a knack for consistently choosing the most expensive item in any set of options.”

But beyond her Champagne taste, what’s apparent about McIntosh is the genuine curiosity that fuels her

passions, from her ad hoc design skills to the entrepreneurial vision and aesthetic that took a little bit of every

part of her past and spun it into something entirely her own. As she puts it, “I’m a fast learner. I like to jump in,

pick up skills, absorb as much as I possibly can, and then apply it elsewhere.” l. patterson

Page 95: The May Food Issue
Page 96: The May Food Issue

p r o f i l e i n s t y l e

1. A corner of Finley's nursery, including a DIY glider McIntosh made from adding a glider attachment to a refurbished vintage chair—"Much cheaper than buying a ready-made glider and—I think cuter," she explains. 2. Penguin classics with modern illustrated covers from Anthropologie ($18 each). 3. Finley's owl mobile from Picket Fences (1003 W 34th St., $52) 4. Kiki, McIntosh's 11-year-old longhaired chihuahua ("My first child," she laughs.) 5. In the kitchen, a copper pot rack hangs

1.

2.

3.

4.

Page 97: The May Food Issue

tribeza.com may 2014 95Photog r a Phy by w yn n myer s

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

above custom concrete countertops made by McIntosh's husband, Jackson. 6. A cedar plank wall and hanging cheese boards 7. Antique wood and brass wine pitcher 8. A bouquet of fresh flowers from Trader Joe's 9. A stuffed owl from Wildflower Organics (908 N. Lamar)."We went with owls for Finley's spirit animal,"

McIntosh laughs. 10. A view of the dining room with a sleepy, "crazy, needy pit bull puppy Layla."

Page 98: The May Food Issue

AUSTINSHADEWORKS www.austinshadeworks.com

512-472-176892 Red River St.

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A unique blend of antiques, one-of-a-kind furnishings, lighting, gifts and accessories for the home.Custom work and design services available.

1512 W. 35TH ST. CUTOFF, SUITE 100 | 512 .284.9732 | WENDOWFINELIVING.COM

Page 99: The May Food Issue

Susan Griffith | Broker, Elite 25Office 512-327-4874 x 164 | Fax [email protected] | susangriffithrealestate.com

Magnificent Waterfront Estatein Costa Bella211 Bella Riva Dr, $2,999,500www.211bellariva.ameliabullock.com

Page 100: The May Food Issue

98 may 2014 tribeza.com

style b e h i n d t h e s c e n e s

C raig Collins, beverage director for the ELM restaurant

group—the geniuses behind Easy Tiger, 24 Diner, and

Arro—usually logs 12-hour workdays. But when those

days often start with wine tasting and end with training staff to

make a new cocktail he’s created, Collins insists, it doesn’t feel like

work at all. “I don’t feel like I have a job,” he says. “I’m doing some-

thing I truly love.”

True love, for Collins, started with more-fleeting desires: He freely

admits that he got into the wine business “to meet women.” When he

was still in college, he confessed as much to the owner of a winery in

an interview, and the owner, appreciative of his honesty, responded

with a job offer. It was while studying abroad in Italy, though, that

Collins got serious about wine. Experiencing a mismatch between

available funds and the many wines he wanted to try, Collins started

a club, collecting lire from his fellow travelers, reading up on wines

each week, and presenting them to the group. It was one of those

wines, Collins says, that was his aha moment. “It was a 1998 Bran

Caia Blue—a Super Tuscan from Italy that is a blend of Sangiovese

and merlot,” he says. “It was really one of those things where your

heart stops and you’re like, ‘Oh my God, this is the most beautiful

thing I’ve put in my mouth.’ It was the moment when I knew what I

was going to do for the rest of my life.”Collins’ work for arro involved creating an entirely French wine list to compliment its menu.

Craig Collins creates many original cocktail recipes—here he trims zest to infuse his own limoncello recipe.

s o m m e l i e r c r a i g c o l l i n s S P e N D S h I S DAYS S I P -

P I N g Lu S c I O u S W I N e S, I N v e N T I N g c L e v e r cO c K TA I L S,

A N D S A b O r I N g T h e O cc A S I O N A L b OT T L e O F c h A M -

PAg N e. I N OT h e r WO r D S, I T ' S A LWAYS 5 O ' c LO c K .

Grape Expectations

Photog r a Phy by le a h ov er s tr eet

Page 101: The May Food Issue

tribeza.com may 2014 99

And he followed through, too. In the midst of a burgeoning career

in wine, Collins passed the Master Sommelier exam in 2011, joining

the ranks of barely more than 200 people in the world who’ve attained

the membership. If it sounds difficult, that’s because it is .Collins took

his first Master Sommelier exam in 2001. In one part of the exam, he

had 25 minutes to identify the variety, vintage, and region of six differ-

ent wines—in a blind tasting. Today, Collins’s work is less high-stakes

but just as exciting to him. “Through wine I can connect with anyone,”

he says. “It’s geology, it’s art, it’s chemistry, it’s history and business.

Having a little bit of knowledge about each one of those facets of wine

allows me to have conversations with some of the coolest people in the

world.” j. netzer

Collins is a master sommelier, a distinc-tion held by just 200-some people in the world.

Collins, shown here sabering champagne, says that champagne shouldn’t be saved for a ‘special’ occasion, that champagne itself is the occasion.

hoW to saber Wine, from craig collins:

1. chill your champagne for 24 hours. Then, 30 minutes before you plan

to celebrate, submerge the neck in an ice bin. This is the crucial step: You

want to make the glass as cold and brittle as possible.

2. gently remove the foil and find the seam on the bottle.

3. Move the saber along the seam quickly. The pressure will expel the top

of the bottle off. No saber handy? use the back of a chef ’s knife.

4. Drink up. And don’t necessarily wait for a special occasion, collins says.

champagne, especially when sabered, is a special occasion.

Finding the seam when sabering is a crucial step, but not as crucial as making sure the bottle is ice-cold.

Page 102: The May Food Issue

FRESHLOCAL 500 e. 4th street | austin, tx 78701

finnandporterAUSTIN.com

Finn & Porter is fresh and modern. Locally sourced and

exquisitely presented. Known for the freshest seafood,

steaks, sushi and produce the state of Texas has to o�er.

Prepared by Chef Peter Ma�ei, with his talent for selecting

the best of the season and allowing its �avor to shine.

Page 104: The May Food Issue

102 may 2014 tribeza.com

style i n s p i r a t i o n b o a r d

Since 2008, chef Alexandra Manley has been an

intrinsic force behind every eatery that restau-

rateur Larry McGuire has opened in Austin, in-

cluding Elizabeth Street Café, Clark’s, and Perla’s.

Most recently, she has been at the culinary helm

of Josephine House, the charming and elegant

establishment at the corner of West Lynn and

Waterston.

Given Manley’s extraordinary success to date,

where does this young chef get all of her energy

and inspiration? She starts close to home, with

her parents. Her seasonal approach is informed

by her family’s garden when she was growing up

in Bethesda, Maryland. Manley’s parents also

enjoyed looking for the perfect ingredient. “We

would hunt down ethnic grocery stores in search

of the best liverwurst, stinky European cheeses,

Russian rye bread, and pickled herring,” recalls

Manley.Many of the flavorful ingredients for her

farm-to-table menu are harvested directly from

the gardens that are shared by Josephine House

and Jeffrey’s. “It is so inspiring to pick something

directly from the garden and put it on the menu

a few minutes later,” says Manley. “Right now we

have beautiful lettuces and herbs. Fava beans, car-

doons, and puntarella are on their way.” K. WalsH

inspiration board:

Alexandra Manley

Page 105: The May Food Issue

tribeza.com may 2014 103P h OTO g r A P h Y b Y b I L L S A L L A N S

14.

13.

aleXandra's Inspiration Board

1. old-school food writers: “richard Olney, M. F. K. Fisher, and elizabeth David. I still remember reading Alice Waters’s Los Angeles Times obituary for Olney.” 2. photo of alex’s parents, Jeff and Masha Manley, from their wedding day, September 18, 1965: “My dad is a compulsive researcher; my mother, a great improviser. he would make a big meal every Sunday and my mother would spend the rest of the week creating dinner with the leftovers.” 3. Julia child’s The French Chef: “I love watching old episodes. child’s joy is contagious.” 4. coffee: “Some days my schedule is an excuse for trips to houndstooth, Once Over, Medici, Flat Track, or brew & brew. There is only so much caffeine I can consume in a day—it is important to choose wisely!” 5. Jacques pepin’s La Technique: “A classic and a favorite.” 6. local produce: “We are so lucky here in Austin to have urban farms like Springdale, boggy creek, and hausbar, to name a few.” 7. canelé mold: “I picked this up during my travels in France.” 8. dark chocolate: “I always have a bar in my purse and several on the counter at home. The breakfast of champions is a square of dark chocolate and a cortado.” 9. Canal House Cooking, by christopher hirsheimer and melissa hamilton: “One of my favorite cookbooks.” 10. butter-knife pendant and necklace: “butter is the key, so I wear this pendant around my neck.” 11. beurre d’isigny with coarse sea salt. 12. yard eggs: “chickens eating real food of their own choosing makes for exciting egg eating.” 13. cup and saucer: essentials for cappuccinos. 14. spread from The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating, by Fergus henderson: “henderson also has a restaurant in London called St. John where I had one of the best meals of my life.”

1. 2. 3.

4.

10.

5.

9.

12.

7.

8.

6.

11.

Page 106: The May Food Issue

WHAT READERS ARE

SAYING...

61%63%H AV E G I V E N A

C O P Y O F TR IBEZATO A F R I E N D

K E E P PA S T I S S U E SO F TR IBEZA

83%E N J OY LO O K I N G

AT T H E A D SI N TR IBEZA

H AV E P U R C H A S E DA N I T E M O R

S E R V I C E T H E Y S A WI N TR IBEZA

WHAT READERS ARE

SAYING...

A D V E R T I S E W I T H T R I B E Z A | A D V E R T I S I N G @ T R I B E Z A . C O MJanuary 2014 survey results

Page 107: The May Food Issue

200 Lavaca Street | Austin 78701 | traceaustin.com @traceatx

Experience TRACE showcasing the finest locally sourced and foraged flavors from

the region’s surrounding farms.Welcome patio weather and the summer of

Riesling with new warmer weather wines— enjoy all current bottles available for 25% off.*

Spring Dinner SeriesEnjoy dinner for two, just $49*

*Sunday-Wednesday only.

Page 108: The May Food Issue

106 may 2014 tribeza.com

style p i c k

T he beauty of a farmers’ market is in its vibrant, just-harvested freshness—the promise of flavorful and nourishing seasonal produce. Monument Market, which opened in 2011, brought

this same pledge of freshness to downtown Georgetown. The retail market shares one over-an-acre sized city block with its counterpart, the popular Monument Cafe, as well as with its own produce and herb gardens. While most of the products (all from farms within a 300-mile radius) are sold to customers, some go straight to their kitchen.

Starting this month, the market will literally connect to the café (via a new doorway), and early this summer a smoothie bar with a range of fruit and vegetable concoctions will be added to the mix.

Monument Market covers all the bases for urban foodies, including locally grown and/or produced fruits and vegetables, olive oils, beer and wine, coffee, honey, and more. In other words, it’s one-stop shop-ping for locavore foodies.

“Monument Market is the retail version of a farmers’ market,” says co-manager Alex Weber. “If you want lo-

cally sourced produce that is seasonal and organic whenever possible, we offer that diversity for folks who can’t make it to an actual farmers’ market every weekend.”

Weber and Michelle Akindiya manage the store: he handles the marketing and sales side of things, and she’s charged with the gar-den and purchasing. Since they took over the business from founder Jeanette Murphy a year and a half ago, they’ve worked to expand the market while staying true to its commitment to sustainability.

To that end, the market holds weekly gardening classes and bi-monthly cooking classes, taught by other staff members. There’s also an in-house bread program and a grab-and-go deli that offers quick meal solutions for locals.

“I really like picking up a fresh melon that’s just ripe and warm from the sun and bringing it inside and selling it,” Perry says. “With

urban farming in general, you’re growing food right where the people are; it doesn’t get much more direct than that.” e. banks

Monument MarketA G eo rG e tow n m A r k e t o ffer s A G rowi n G b o u n t y o f fr e sh , lo c A l ly i n spi r ed fA r e .

500 s austin aveGeorgetown, TX

themonumentmarket.comPhotog r a Phy by k ate lesu eu r

the market brings the best of a weekend farmer’s market to downtown georgetown seven days a week.

monument market focuses on local and seasonal food direct

from the source.

managers alex Weber and michelle akindi-yaaim to produce quality goods that are local, seasonal, and organic. together they work to uphold these three pillars daily.

alex handles the marketing and sales side of the business while michelle is in charge of the gardening and purchasing.

Page 110: The May Food Issue

. .

Chris Caselli Photography

Page 111: The May Food Issue

MOBILE BANKING. ONLINE BANKING. AND GOOD OL’ FACE-TO-FACE BANKING.

frostbank.com

Tarrytown

(512) 473-4364

M E M B E R F D I C

Frost is here whenever and wherever you need us, with the technology you want and the service you deserve.

21st and Guadalupe Streets Free admission, donations welcomewww.hrc.utexas.edu

The World at War, 1914–1918Drawing on the Ransom Center’s extensive collections, this exhibition illuminates the experience of the war from the point of view of its participants and observers, preserved through letters, drafts, and diaries; memoirs and novels; and photographs and propaganda posters.

Through August 3, 2014

Page 112: The May Food Issue

110 may 2014 tribeza.com Photog r a Phy by w yn n myer s

rather than dogmatic (they use mozzarella from Wisconsin, because they found it’s the best prod-uct for their fiery ovens).

The pizzas are named after Stanley’s girl-friends, their cows—our favorite was the Tina ($13) with extra virgin olive oil, fresh mozzarel-la, Fontina, and a shower of fragrant chopped basil (for the price of an additional topping you can add prosciutto, and that’s a very good idea). For lovers of red sauce, there’s the Dexter ($14.50), with a clean, tart, judicious smear of sauce, pepperoni, Italian sausage, sweet cara-melized onions, and spicy Calabrian chiles. There are a few unorthodox toppings—BBQ sauce and brisket—but even this seems to work in the context of mesquite and big blue sky. As any pizzaiolo will tell you, it’s not about the top-pings anyway. The most precious ingredient in Stanley’s pizza is time. The dough gets a cool, three-day, slow rise, resulting in a tangy, com-plex flavor impossible to achieve through short-cuts. Perfumed with wood smoke, blistered and bubbled—this is pizza to plan a day around. e. WinsloW

t here’s something magical that happens when you combine pizza from a wood-burning oven, cold craft beer, and a

Hill Country setting on a late-spring afternoon. At Stanley’s Farmhouse Pizza, golden sunshine casts a warm glow on hipsters in their finest ironic casual wear, aging hippies from Lakeway in tie-dye, tipsy parents and their under-super-vised children, and the occasional intrepid foodie from Waco gathered in an open-air barn and on blankets spread under gnarled oaks and pecans. The thrill of the quest and whatever unexpected turns it may take enhances the experience—driv-ing south of Austin, then down a winding gravel road to a small restaurant attached to a brewery. But there’s also slow-fermented pizza crust, chewy and slightly charred from a wood fire, and a carefully curated selection of brews (19 on tap). Like a long, languid feast in Europe, where lunch lingers more or less until dinner, there’s the luxury of an afternoon when wait-ing an hour or so for pizza that’s a million times better than it needs to be is a pleasure rather than an annoyance. And do try to be patient—

the unexpected popularity of Stanley’s (on a recent Saturday they served 1,400 people and made 430 pies) can translate to long lines. The proprietors are expanding the operation in fits and spurts, but that will take time, just like their pizzas.

Stanley’s shares the ranch property with the critically acclaimed Jester King Brewery, which frequently offers tours with tastings. As any beer geek will tell you, Jester King spe-cializes in distinctive sour brews; if you prefer a clean, crisp lager, or a glass of wine, you can get either in a mason jar at Stanley’s. If you stay long enough, you can watch the sky fade into a deep Texas twilight. Really, what’s your hurry?

The open-air restaurant is on Ceres Ranch—Stanley was the ranch’s first bull. Owners Chad and Cinnamon Nemec are committed to qual-ity, as evidenced by a menu focused on one thing. There are salads and desserts, but the message is clear: we’re all here for the pizza. In-gredients are impeccably sourced, with an em-phasis on local that is thoughtful (goat cheese from Pure Luck Dairy in Dripping Springs)

Stanley's Farmhouse PizzaI ’ v e N e v er b eeN TO h e Av eN , b u T I ’ v e b eeN TO S TA N L e Y ’ S P Iz z A .

a rustic setting is a part of the charm.

Cinnamon and Chad nemec traded real estate for a life of pies.

13187 Fitzhugh road(512) 900 9079stanleysfarmhousepizza.com

"the Penelope" is topped with smoked speck, fresh mozzarella, arugula, and tomatoes.

without r e s e r v a t i o n s

Page 113: The May Food Issue

Charlotte BrighamBroker, MBA

512.423.5707 | [email protected]

Downtown Spring Condos

Travis Heights East

Westview on Lake Austin, Eanes ISD

512.473.0078 | 2727 Exposition Blvd Suite 110 | samlmajorsaustin.com

Page 114: The May Food Issue

112 may 2014 tribeza.com

219 West 612 w 6th st(512) 474 2194 Lively warehouse district

hangout, with a rooftop

bar and some of the best

happy hour tapas in town.

34th street cafÉ1005 w 34th st (512) 371 3400Consistently good Ameri-

can fare that toes the

casual/fancy line—good

for weeknight dinners

and weekend indulgences

alike. Order the chicken

piccata.

360 Uno trattoria & Wine bar3801 n Capital of tX hwy (512) 327 5505Great espresso bar and a

mostly-Italian wine list,

complete with an outdoor

patio for sipping.

annie’s cafÉ & bar319 Congress ave (512) 472 1884locally-minded Ameri-

can offerings in a

charming setting; per-

fect spot for a decadent

downtown brunch.

andiamo italiano2521 rutland Dr(512) 719 3377This neighborhood

restaurant located in

an unassuming North

Austin strip mall offers

delectable, homemade

Italian fare that is fresh

and locally sourced.

apothecary cafÉ and Wine bar

4800 burnet rd (512) 371 1600 Apothecary’s soothing

ambiance and excellent

wine selection make for

a happy spot to get wine

and enjoy a quick bite with

friends.

arro601 w 6th st(512) 992 2776From Easy Tiger and 24

Diner’s ELM Restaurant

Group, this recently

opened spot offers rich

French favorites and an

excellent wine list.

asia cafÉ8650 spicewood springs rd, ste 115

(512) 331 5788Authentic Chinese cuisine in

a comfortable atmosphere.

asti trattoria408 e 43rd st (512) 451 1218The chic little Hyde Park

trattoria offers delicious

Italian cuisine, like saf-

fron risotto with seafood.

aUstin land and cattle1205 n lamar blvd(512) 472 1813The capitol's only in-

dependent and family-

owned steakhouse serves

aged beef the same way

they have for over 17 years.

Order their fresh seafood

as an appetizer and you

won't regret it.

the backspace507 san Jacinto (512) 474 9899Delicious thin crust pizza

and wine selections in a

cozy setting.

banger’s saUsage hoUse and beer garden79 rainey st (512) 386 1656Banger’s brings the Ger-

man biergarten tradition

stateside with an array of

artisan sausages and over

100 beers on tap.

bar congress200 Congress ave(512) 827 2755A classy middle ground

between Second Bar +

Kitchen, and the upscale

Congress restaurant, Bar

Congress stirs up classic

cocktails and delicious

upscale fare.

bar chi sUshi 206 Colorado st (512) 382 5557 A great place to stop when

you’re going out for a night

on the town, this sushi and

bar hotspot stays open until

2am on the weekends.

bar lamar(at the downtown whole Foods market)525 n. lamar blvd (512) 345 5000Grab a bottle and a snack

to share, then the Whole

Foods bartenders will un-

cork it and provide glasses

for you at no extra charge.

DININg guIDeDinner & Drinks

From brisket to brussels sprouts, our picks of the best places to eat and drinkAuSTIN reSTAurANT WeeK PArTIcIPANTS

Page 115: The May Food Issue

Austin’s prime spot for prime steaks.We know you’ve heard about us … the food, the atmosphere, the service. Bob’s Steak & Chop House exceeds its reputation from the moment you walk in the door. Come in and see for yourself. Don’t be the last one to become addicted to Bob’s.

©20

13 B

ob’s

Stea

k &

Cho

p H

ouse

www.bobs-steakandchop.com

301 Lavaca StreetAustin, TX 78701

512-222-2627

Andy Dixon

1202 W. 6th St. Austin, TX 78703 512.472.7428 wallyworkman.com Tues-Sat 10-5 Duchess on Horse (After Velázquez), acrylic & oil pastel on canvas, 64 x 54 inches

Wally Workman Gallery

Page 116: The May Food Issue

114 may 2014 tribeza.com

bar mirabeaU800 w 6th st ste 100 (512) 436 9633Another unique addition

to Austin’s dining scene

from Chef Parind Vora. A

diverse and approachable

menu with rice bowls,

sandwiches, cioppino, and

more, with a patio offering

a view of bustling down-

town Austin.

barlata 1500 s lamar ste 150(512) 473 2211 Hoppin' Spanish tapas

restaurant in a modern

South Austin setting. The

octopus is a perfect dish,

as are the potatoes bravas.

Reservations recom-

mended.

barley sWine2024 s lamar blvd st (512) 394 8150Chef Bryce Gilmore offers

small plates with locally

sourced ingredients which

pair with craft beers and

fine wines, guests sit at

communal high top tables.

benJi's cantina 716 w 6th st (512) 476 8226Rooftop dining on West

6th, Benji’s offers a fresh,

innovative approach to

Tex-Mex where seafood

and Mexican influences

adorn the menu.

bess bistro 500 w 6th st (512) 477 2377 A rustic, underground

restaurant owned by

Sandra Bullock serving

up French-inspired dishes

with Southern twists: The

fried green tomatoes are

the perfect indulgence.

blUe dahlia bistro1115 e 11th st(512) 542 9542A cozy, French-inspired

bistro serving up break-

fast, lunch, and dinner.

botticelli’s1321 s Congress ave(512) 916 1315An inviting trattoria with

warm Tuscan colors.

Small bar up front and

cozy booths in back.

boUldin creek cafÉ1900 s 1st st(512) 416 1601Affordable wholesome

vegetarian cuisine, includ-

ing soups, salads, and

sandwiches.

bUenos aires cafÉ1201 e 6th st(512) 382 1189Argentinean specialties

like meat sandwiches on

baguettes, empanadas,

and tasty pastries. Inti-

mate patio seating.

bUfalina 1519 e Cesar Chavez (512) 524 2523 Wood-fired pizza in an

elegant, trendy vibe; get

the Fresca pie.

cafÉ Josie1200 w 6th st (512) 322 9226Innovative and flavorful

plates with fresh ingredi-

ents in a quaint and inti-

mate atmosphere.

cantina laredo

201 w 3rd st (512) 542 9670

An excellent upscale

Mexican restaurant with a

late-night happy hour.

chavez111 e Cesar Chavez (512) 478 2991Local celebrity chef Shawn

Cirkiel has turned what

used to be a drab TGI

Friday's into Austin's hot-

test new dining venture.

Chavez boasts homemade

mole and tamales, and a

gorgeous view overlooking

Lady Bird Lake.

chen’s noodle hoUse8650 spicewood springs rd, ste 127 (512) 336 8889Don’t let the small size

fool you, this hidden gem

provides some of the most

authentic fresh noodles in

Austin.

chinatoWn3407 greystone Dr, (512) 343 9307 & 107 w 5th st (512) 637 8888Some of the best tradi-

tional Chinese food in

town. Fast service in the

dining room and delivery

is available.

clark’s oyster bar1200 w 6th st(512) 297 2525Small and typically

crowded, Clark’s’ extensive

caviar and oyster menu,

sharp aesthetics, and

excellent service make it a

refreshing indulgence on

West Sixth Street. Indoor

and outdoor seating is

available.

congress200 Congress ave(512) 827 2760An upscale dining expe-

rience with great wine

pairings.

contigo2027 anchor ln(512) 614 2260Ranch-to-table cuisine

and an elegant take on

bar fare.

coUnter cafÉ626 n lamar blvd (512) 708 8800It’s nothing fancy, but this

tiny shotgun-style diner

has some of the city’s best

breakfast offerings (and

the lines outside to match).

Both the pancakes and

hamburger are legendary.

coUnter cUltUre2337 e Cesar Chavez st (512) 524 1540An East Austin haven for

vegans and vegetarians.

crave340 e 2nd st(512) 469 0000A classic American grill

with a chic atmosphere

and a wide selection of di-

verse dining choices. Grab

an intimate corner table

and enjoy lunch, dinner or

happy hour!

crU Wine bar 238 w 2nd st(512) 472 9463

An excellent place for a

date; drink a bottle of

wine at one of the cozy

sidewalk tables.

cUrryosity2209 e Cesar Chavez st (512) 574 3691An exploration of aromat-

ic curries across the Asian

continent, from India to

Thailand.

v i e W t h e e n t i r e r e s ta U r a n t g U i d e o n l i n e at T r i B E z a .Co m

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tribeza.com may 2014 115

darUma ramen 612-b e 6th st (512) 369 3897 Rich chicken broth-based

ramen and a simple,

veggie-friendly menu from

the owners of the popular

Kome Sushi Kitchen on

Airport Blvd.

driskill hotel bar

604 brazos st(512) 391 7162 With a blend of his-

tory, class, and charm the

Driskill Bar is unbeatable

if you want a classic, old-

school Austin experience.

dUe forni106 e 6th st ste 106(512) 391 9300Serving up Roman and

Neapolitan style pizza

from two specially de-

signed brick ovens, Due

Forni combines the art of

simple, delicious food and

timeless, easy wine.

east side king

1618 e 6th st (512) 422 5884Chefs Paul Qui, Moto

Utsonomaya and Ek Tim-

rek offer out-of-this-world

pan-Asian food from three

trailers.

east-side shoWroom1100 e 6th st(512) 467 4280Delicious vintage cocktails

in an eccentric space.

Enjoy local art, music, and

cuisine by Sonya Cote.

easy tiger709 e 6th st(512) 614 4972Delicious bake shop up-

stairs and beer garden

downstairs. Enjoy the

signature house-made

sausages.

eden east 755 springdale rd(512) 428 6500 Weekends at the farm have

never been more delicious:

Chef Sonya Cote of Hillside

Farmacy teamed up with

Springdale Farms this year

to create a (literal) farm-

to-table concept restaurant

on the East side, serving

a seasonal prix fixe menu

under a the canopy of a

majestic Texas elm tree.

el alma1025 barton springs rd (512) 609 8923Chef-driven, authentic

Mexican cuisine.

el naranJo85 rainey st (512) 474 2776Husband and wife team

Iliana de la Vega and

Ernesto Torrealba serve

up authentic cuisine from

Mexico’s interior. Dine al

fresco on the charming

Rainey Street patio.

elephant room315 Congress ave(512) 473 2279Cool jazz in a dark base-

ment; go early for an inti-

mate cocktail, or late for

jams in a packed house.

eleven plates & Wine3801 n Capital of texas hwy(512) 328 0110Specializing in New

American cuisine, tapas

and small plates, this

casual wine bar offers

over 100 fine wines from

Austin Restaurant Week

t his year TRIBEZA is proud to partner with Austin Restau-rant Week (ARW), to produce the bi-annual culinary event that takes place each spring and fall. Come hungry! The

eight days of dining during ARW’s spring season will take place on May 11-14 and 18-21, during which time Austinites can dine (and wine!) at participating restaurants for lunch, brunch, and dinner. The prix-fixe menus offer varied options that include signature dishes, all while giving back to a notable cause. Each restaurant will donate $2 from each meal to Meals on Wheels and More, which in turn funds 1 meal for a person in need. A special thank you to all the ARW Sponsors: Velocity Credit Union, Deep Eddy Vodka, Zagat, SWBC Mortgage, and Better Bronze. A complete list of participating restaurants can be found at restaurantweekaustin.com; reservations strongly encouraged. Stay up to date on Twitter @austinrestweek (#austinRW). p. disbroWe

MAY 11-14 | 18-21

Page 118: The May Food Issue

116 may 2014 tribeza.com

around the world as well

as 11 different locally

crafted beer options. Dish-

es range from the most

elegant (think duck confit)

to casual perfection (the

classic hamburger).

elizabeth street cafÉ1501 s 1st st(512) 291 2881A charming French-

Vietnamese eatery with

a colorful menu of pho,

banh mi, and more. Vi-

brant and comfortable

surrounding patio.

epicerie 2307 hancock Dr(512) 371 6840A café and grocery with

both Louisiana and

French sensibilities by

Thomas Keller-trained

Sarah McIntosh.

estancia chUrrascaria10000 research blvd(512) 345 5600Austin's premier Brazil-

ian steakhouse, offering

the bold flavors and style

of Southern Brazil right

here in the heart of Texas.

Indulge in generous por-

tions of perfectly cooked

meats while experiencing

some of the best service

in town.

fabi + rosi509 hearn st(512) 236 0642A husband and wife team

cook up delicious Europe-

an-style dishes like pork

schnitzel and paella.

finn & porter500 e 4th st(512) 493 4900Recognized for its award-

winning wine list and

steaks, this Domain staple

is also the source for some

of the freshest seafood and

sushi in town. It's surf and

turf with a contemporary

twist!

fino restaUrant patio & bar2905 san gabriel st(512) 474 2905Mediterranean plates for

sharing. Sip a handcrafted

cocktail al fresco on the

lovely patio.

fogo de chao309 e 3rd st(512) 472 0220An authentic Brazilian

steakhouse that shares

the gaucho way of prepar-

ing meats. Enjoy a fine

dining experience unlike

any other with incredible

service and a well-versed,

friendly staff.

foodheads616 w 34th st(512) 420 8400Fresh, inspired sandwich-

es, soups, and salads in

a charming, refashioned

cottage and porch.

fonda san migUel

2330 w n loop blvd(512) 459 4121An Austin institution for

over 30 years, serving up

delicious interior Mexican

menu and a killer brunch.

Reservations recom-

mended!

franklin barbecUe900 e 11th st(512) 653 1187Crowned Best BBQ Res-

taurant in America by Bon

Appetit, Aaron Franklin’s

eponymous eatery is a

true Austin institution. Go

early and be prepared to

wait! (It is worth it.)

frank407 Colorado st(512) 494 6916Their official motto pro-

claims, "Hot dogs and

cold beer," and...yep, that's

basically it. Bacon-infused

bloodies, a dozen different

artisan hot dog options,

and one of the best beer

lists in town: Frank is

both a markedly more

civil alternative to dirty

downtown night and your

hangover's best friend.

fresa’s915 n lamar blvd(512) 428 5077Tasty chicken al carbon,

refreshing agua frescas,

and the best guacamole

around.

gloria’s3309 esperanza Crossing ste 100 (512) 833 6400300 w 6th st #100(512) 236 1795Perfect for a date night

at the Domain, Gloria’s

serves upscale Mexican

cuisine and a spacious

patio.

goodall's kitchen and bar1900 rio grande st(512) 495 1800 Modern spins on Ameri-

can classics and locally-

sourced veggie sides inside

the new Hotel Ella.

g’raJ mahal 91 red river st(512) 480 2255With an extensive yet

cozy covered patio, G’Raj

Mahal offers a surprising

amount of ambiance for a

food trailer.

green pastUres

restaUrant811 w live oak st(512) 444 4747Feast on continental

brunch under the patio’s

majestic oaks. Try the

milk punch: it’s legendary!

gUero’s taco bar1412 s Congress ave & 4800 burnet rd(512) 447 7688No frills tacos and one of

the most famous patios

on South Congress. Try

the Queso Flameado with

chorizo and jalapenos.

gUsto italian kitchen & Wine bar4800 burnet(512) 458 1100Upscale-casual Italian;

solid pasta specials, in-

credible desserts (orange

olive oil cake!), and an

interesting wine list.

haymaker

2310 manor rd(512) 243 6702 It's comfort food meets

sports bar meets beer

pub in Cherrywood, an

easygoing place to get a

craft beer and elevated bar

food. Get the namesake:

The Haymaker is an open-

faced roast beef sandwich,

topped with flavorful slaw,

tomatoes, a fried egg, deca-

dent gruyere sauce, and—

wait for it—french fries.

henri’s cheese & Wine2026 s lamar blvd (512) 442 3373Equal parts charcuterie,

v i e W t h e e n t i r e r e s ta U r a n t g U i d e o n l i n e at T r i B E z a .Co m

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P H O T O G R A P H B Y K A T E L E S U E U R

M AY 1 1 -1 4 | 1 8 -2 1R E S T A U R A N T W E E K A U S T I N . C O M

Join us for special prix fixe menus at restaurants across town! For every Austin Restaurant Week meal purchased, $2 is donated to Meals on Wheels and More.

R E S T A U R A N T W E E K

2 0 1 4

a u s t i nP R O D U C E D BY T R I B E Z A

DINE OUT. DO GOOD.

34TH STREET CAFE

360 UNO TRATTORIA & WINE BAR

ALC STEAKS

ANDIAMO ITALIANO

BENJI'S CANTINA

BESS BISTRO ON PECAN

BOTTICELLI'S SOUTH

CONGRESS

BUENOS AIRES CAFE

CAFE JOSIE

CHAVEZ

CRAVE

DUE FORNI

ELEVEN PLATES & WINE

ESTANCIA CHURRASCARIA

FINN & PORTER

FOGO DE CHAO

GUSTO ITALIAN KITCHEN +

WINE BAR

HUDSON’S ON THE BEND

JASPER’S

LIBERTY TAVERN

LITTLE BARREL AND BROWN

MANUEL’S

MULBERRY

NO VA KITCHEN & BAR

OLIVE & JUNE

OLIVIA

PERRY'S STEAKHOUSE & GRILLE

ROARING FORK

RUSSIAN HOUSE

SALTY SOW

SEARSUCKER

SIENA RISTORANTE TOSCANA

SULLIVAN'S STEAKHOUSE

SWIFT'S ATTIC

TADASHI

TAPASITAS

THE MELTING POT

TRACE

TRIO

UCHI

UCHIKO

URBAN AN AMERICAN GRILL

WILLIE G'S SEAFOOD AND

STEAKS

WINFLO OSTERIAR e s t a u r a n t L i s t a s o f 4 . 1 5 . 1 4

PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS

BENEFITING

Reservations & Menu details available at

Page 120: The May Food Issue

118 may 2014 tribeza.com

cheese, and wine shop,

Henri’s offers a cozy space

to explore new wines or

take a bottle home.

hillside farmacy1209 e 11th st(512) 628 0168Hillside Farmacy is locat-

ed in a beautifully restored

50s-style pharmacy with

a perfect porch for people

watching on the East Side.

Oysters, cheese plates, and

nightly dinner specials.

hopfields3110 guadalupe st (512) 537 0467A gastropub with French

inclinations, a beautiful

patio, and unique cocktails.

hoUse pizzeria5111 airport blvd(512) 600 4999A choice pizza place for

a spontaneous night out.

Fresh and simple. Try the

roasted olives and the kale

salad too!

imperia310 Colorado st

(512) 472 6770A Warehouse District

highlight, Delectable Pe-

king Duck and memorable

specialty cocktails.

Jack allen’s kitchen7720 hwy 71 w(512) 852 8558Savor country favorites

from Chef Jack Gilmore

on the covered patio.

Jasper’s11506 Century oaks ter-race #128(512) 834 4111The second restaurant

concept of Executive Chef

and Partner Kent Rath-

bun, delivers a unique

array of tantalizing dishes

in a comfortable upscale

setting. Go for the shop-

ping at the Domain, and

stay for a delicious dinner!

Jeffrey’s bar1204 w lynn st(512) 4775584 This historic Clarksville

favorite got a welcome

facelift last year from

Larry McGuire, all while

maintaining the execu-

tion, top-notch service,

and luxurious but wel-

coming atmosphere that

makes Jeffrey’s an old

Austin staple.

Josephine hoUse1601 waterston ave(512) 477-5584Rustic, continental fare

with an emphasis on fresh,

local and organic ingredi-

ents. Serving lunch, after-

noon snacks, and evening

cocktails, the shady porch

is the perfect spot for a

late-afternoon paloma.

JUlio’s4230 Duval st(512) 452 1040An old school, family-run

Tex-Mex favorite in Hyde

Park. Cash only! Order the

green chicken enchiladas.

JUstine’s brasserie4710 e 5th st(512) 385 2900With its French bistro

fare, impressive cocktails,

and charming décor inside

and out, Justine’s has Aus-

tin looking east. Expect a

crowd, even late at night.

kenichi419 Colorado st (512) 320 8883Popular downtown spot

for some of the best sushi

in town.

kome4917 airport blvd(512) 712 5700More than just sushi, this

eatery serves up Japanese

comfort food, including de-

licious, homemade ramen.

hUdsons on the bend3509 rr 620 n(512) 266 1369Best handling of wild

game in town—delicious

quail salad, rattlesnake

cakes and grilled venison

chops with lobster tail.

koriente621 e 7th st(512) 275 0852Healthy, tasty Korean

options like bulgogi and

curry dishes all served up

by the friendly staff.

la barbecUe1200 e 6th st(512) 605 9696In the heart of South First,

La Barbecue whips up

classic barbecue with free

beer and live music.

la condesa400 w 2nd st(512) 499 0300Delectable cocktails, tasty

tacos and appetizers,

delicious main courses,

all inspired by the hip and

bohemian Condesa neigh-

borhood in Mexico City.

lamberts doWn-toWn barbecUe401 w 2nd st(512) 494 1500Not your standard BBQ

fare, meats are given an

Austin twist, like the rib-

eye glazed with brown

sugar and mustard. Tucked

away in the historic Schnei-

der Brothers Building in the

2nd Street District.

la traviata 314 Congress ave(512) 479 8131Authentic Italian in a cozy

downtown setting; known

for their wickedly rich and

delicious Spaghetti alla

Carbonara.

lenoir1807 s 1st st(512) 215 9778A gorgeous spot to enjoy a

luxurious French-inspired

prix-fixe meal in an inti-

mate dining room and table

that seats just 34 diners.

liberty tavern500 e 4th st (512) 493 4901This Texas tavern serves

up comfort foods with a

variety of drink options

and 14 big screens to

watch your favorite games.

Located in the Hilton

Austin.

little barrell & broWn1716 s Congress ave(512) 582 1229New from the owners of

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tribeza.com may 2014 119

Botticelli's, this little resto

serves New American/

comfort food. With an

impressive 24 bar seats,

they have the biggest bar

on South Congress.

lobby loUnge at the foUr seasons98 san Jacinto blvd(512) 478 4500Pass time in the luxurious

confines of the Four Sea-

sons’ lobby bar, where they

whip up both classic and

adventurous cocktails.

lUcky robot1303 s Congress ave(512) 444 8081A futuristic dining experi-

ence on Congress, inspired

by the vibrant culture and

cuisine of Tokyo.

lUcy’s friedchicken 5408 burnet rd(512) 514 0664 &2218 College ave (512) 297 2423

This year the South Con-

gress favorite opened a

new outpost off Burnet

Road. Different loca-

tion, same straight-up

Southern goodness, from

Moon pies to fried green

tomatoes to corn muffins

to the crème de la crème:

fried chicken.

mandola’s italian market4700 w guadalupe st (512) 419 9700Casual Italian fare and

a well-stocked gourmet

grocery, alongside a deli,

bakery, and espresso bar.

Grab a gelato and unwind

on the patio overlooking

the Triangle.

manUel’s310 Congress ave (512) 472 7555 &10201 Jollyville rd (512) 345 1042Definitely not your stan-

dard Tex-Mex, upscale

Manuel’s hits all the right

notes for it’s upscale Mexi-

can cuisine, cleanly pre-

sented in a classy setting.

marU4636 burnet rd

(512) 458 6200Fresh and classic sushi,

sashimi and bento boxes.

mettle

507 Calles st (512) 236 1022Created by Rainey Street

proprietor Bridget Dun-

lap, Mettle offers a diverse,

often-experimental menu

exciting for omnivores and

vegetarians alike.

moonshine

303 red river st(512) 236 9599 Both a popular din-

ner and brunch spot,

Moonshine’s decadent

Southern comfort food is

a downtown favorite.

mUlberry360 nueces st #20(512) 320 0297Mulberry is a wine bar

and New American

style restaurant that has

received praise for its

cozy atmosphere, unique

design, carefully prepared

cuisine, and an expertly

curated wine list.

S E R I E S

TRIBEZ A Spring

S W B C M O R T G A G E + F R O S T P R E S E N T

Chef Shawn Cirkiel of Olive & June

T U E S DAY, M AY 6 , 7 p mO L I V E & J U N E

3 4 1 1 G L E N V I E W AV E N U E

A L F R E S CO I TA L I A N F E A S T

Tickets $90 | tribeza.ticketbud.com/spring-supper-club

Page 122: The May Food Issue

120 may 2014 tribeza.com

north11506 Century oaks ter(512) 339 4440Guests enjoy modern Italian

cuisine in a sleek interior at

this Domain standout.

no va kitchen & bar

87 rainey st(512) 382 5651Subtle design elements

make the space cohesive

and modern, and its

creative twists on classic,

comforting dishes from a

pork belly/sirloin burger

to seasonally topped flat-

bread pizza are downright

delicious.

olive & JUne3411 glenview ave(512) 467 9898Celebrated Austin Chef

Shawn Cirkiel created

this southern Italian-style

restaurant with a menu

that highlights local,

seasonal ingredients and

includes Southern and

some Northern Italian

favorites.

olivia 2043 s lamar blvd

(512) 804 2700A brunch favorite em-

phasizing fresh and local

produce; an exciting and

diverse menu, from foie

gras to French toast.

paggi hoUse200 lee barton Dr(512) 473 3700Eclectic fine dining in an

inviting setting of one of

Austin’s famous landmark

homes. A spacious patio

overlooks Lady Bird Lake.

parkside301 e 6th st(512) 474 9898This downtown spot is

crowded, but the happy

hour–with half-price oys-

ters and tasty cocktails—is

a local favorite.

pÉchÉ208 w 4th st (512) 494 4011Enjoy prohibition-style

cocktails at Austin’s first

absinthe bar, alongside

standout dishes of smoked

duck salad and citrus-

dusted salmon.

pelons802 red river st (512) 243 7874Elegant Mexican cuisine

in a rustic home with an

enchanting patio.

perla’s seafood & oyster bar1400 s Congress ave(512) 291 7300A South Congress staple:

Expect the freshest fish

and oysters flown in daily

from both coasts, carefully

prepared with simple yet

elegant flavors. Go early

on a nice day to eat oysters

and people-watch on their

fantastic front porch.

perry’s steakhoUse & grille114 w 7th st(512) 474 6300Located downtown in the

historic Norwood Tower,

within easy walking dis-

tance of the Capital Com-

plex and other downtown

landmarks. This location

features unique décor,

patio seating and Perry’s

award-winning menu.

pinthoUse pizza

4729 burnet rd (512) 436 9605 Was there every anything

better than pizza and

beer? A welcome addition

to North Burnet, Pint-

house offers house-brewed

beer on draft, consistent

pies, and great lunch

specials.

polvo’s

2004 s 1st st(512) 441 5446Between the salsa bar,

patio seating, and deli-

cious margaritas, this is

one of Austin’s beloved

Tex-Mex icons.

QUattro gatti ristorante908 Congress ave(512) 476 3131Downtown Italian restau-

rant dishing up delicious

antipasti and huge por-

tions of Italian fare; great

date-night spot.

QUi 1600 e 6th st(512) 436 9626 Chef Paul Qui’s new HQ

is one of the hottest new

spots in town for Japanese

food: an unparalleled

dining experience set

under an airy, beautiful

backdrop.

ramen tatsU-ya 8557 research blvd ste 126 (512) 339 0855Japanese comfort food at

its finest in Austin’s first

brick and mortar, ramen-

centric eatery.

ranch 616616 nueces st(512) 479 7616Eclectic and spicy! Mmm,

the crispy oysters, or the

Ranch Slice of Ice, best

in town.

roaring fork701 Congress ave(512) 583 0000Great spot for lunch with

coworkers or an elegant

night out with friends and

family.

rUssian hoUse307 e 5th st(512) 428 5442Step into Russian House

and you’ll forget you’re

even in Austin. Come

here for a slow, relaxing

evening to experience

delicious Russian cuisine,

and don’t miss out on their

many infused vodkas!

salty soW1917 manor rd(512) 391 2337Salty Sow serves up cre-

ative signature drinks,

including a yummy Blue

berry-Lemon Thyme

Smash. The food menu,

heavy with sophisticated

gastropub fare, is perfect

for late-night noshing:

think triple-fried duck fat

fries and crispy Brussels

sprouts.

salvation pizza624 w 34th st(512) 535 0076A cozy spot that serves up

delectable flavor combina-

tions of New Haven style

pizza pies in an inviting

bungalow.

santa rita teX-meX cantina1206 w 38th st

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tribeza.com may 2014 121

(512) 419 7482 &5900 w slaughter lnste 500 (512) 288 5100Fresh ingredients, tradi-

tional recipes, and out-

standing margaritas com-

bined with bright décor,

attentive service, and solid

menu offerings.

searsUcker 415 Colorado st (512) 394 8000 Stylish Southern fare

from San Diego celebrity

chef Brian Malarkey. Go

for the decadent small

plates: duck fat fries

with tomato jam and

prosciutto "dust," farm

bird lollipops with bleu

cheese, and the “cowboy

caviar.”

second bar + kitchen200 Congress ave(512) 827 2750Another venture from

Chef David Bull, Second

offers a swanky bistro

experience in the heart of

the 2nd Street District.

siena ristorante toscana6203 Capital of tx hwy (512) 349 7667Set in a Tuscan-style villa,

Siena captures the essence

of its namesake region.

soUth congress cafÉ 1600 s Congress ave(512) 447 3905

A south Austin hotspot,

we recommend South

Congress Café’s legend-

ary brunch: carrot cake

French toast and migas

are to die for.

stUbb’s bbQ801 red river st (512) 480 8341Known for its legendary

music venue as much as its

barbecue, which is tradi-

tional and satisfying.

sUllivan’s steakhoUse300 Colorado ste 200(512) 495 6504A fantastic steakhouse in

the heart of downtown

Austin. Reservations

recommended.

sWay1417 s 1st st(512) 326 1999The culinary masterminds

behind La Condesa cook

up Thai cuisine with a

modern twist. An intimate

outdoor area, complete

with a Thai spirit house,

makes for an unforget-

table experience.

sWift’s attic

315 Congress ave

(512) 482 8842Overlooking Congress

Avenue, Swift’s Attic

draws from global inspira-

tions and serves up inven-

tive cocktails in a historic

downtown building.

tacos and teQUila507 Pressler st(512) 436 8226Chef Alma Alcocer is

serving up a taste of the

Southwest in this modern,

industrial space.

tadashi12820 hill Country blvd ste e105(512) 263 3200Upscale Japanese food

and a great ambiance

make Tadashi the perfect

spot for a date night for

those in the Bee Caves and

Lakeway neighborhoods.

takoba1411 e 7th st(512) 628 4466Bold, authentic flavors

with ingredients imported

straight from Mexico; cozy

outdoor seating.

tapasitas800 w 6th st(512) 436 9633With such an amazing

Happy Hour, this is a great

place to start your evening

with quality cocktails and

delicious tapas.

the backspace

507 san Jacinto st(512) 474 9899Exquisite pizzas hot out of

the wood-fired brick oven

straight from Naples and

classic antipasti.

the clay pit1601 guadalupe st(512) 322 5131Zip in for a buffet-style

lunch or settle in for a long

dinner of contemporary

Indian cuisine.

the doJo sake bar and izakaya 9070 research blvd(512) 458 3900 It's small plates and (in-

tentionally) slow service at

the Dojo, a new Japanese

izakaya restaurant near

Burnet and 183. A great,

vegetarian-friendly spot to

go with a group and order

everything on the menu;

all of the kimchee-rice

dishes are superb, and the

beet and avocado tempura

is a deep-fried treat worth

indulging in.

the grove Wine bar6317 bee Cave rd(512) 327 88223001 rr 620 s(512) 263 2366Lively, popular Westlake

wine bar and Italian

restaurant. The wine list

boasts more than 250

wines by the bottle.

the melting pot13343 research blvd

ste 350(512) 401 2424In the land of endless

queso, The Melting

Pot adds a whole new

perspective on melted

cheese. If cheese isn’t

your thing, they have

many entrée fondue op-

tions to choose from.

Always save room for

chocolate fondue!

trace200 lavaca st(512) 542 3660At W Austin, TRACE

focuses on responsibly-

and locally-sourced ingre-

dients from Texan farmers

and artisans. Great out-

door seating and excellent

service.

PhOTOgrAPhY bY JeSSIcA PAgeS

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122 may 2014 tribeza.com

trattoria lisina13308 Fm 150 w Driftwood, tX(512) 894 3111Nestled in the Mandola

Estate Winery in Drift-

wood; expect hearty por-

tions of rustic Italian food

with a warm, welcoming

environment. Cheers!

trio98 san Jacinto blvd / Four seasons hotel(512) 685 8300This sleek space with a

lovely trellised patio and

delicious food overlooks

Lady Bird Lake from its

perch in the Four Seasons

Hotel. Indoor and outdoor

seating is available.

Uchi 801 s lamar blvd(512) 916 4808Chef Tyson Cole has creat-

ed an inventive menu that

puts Uchi foremost among

sushi spots in Austin.

Uchiko4200 n lamar blvd ste 140 (512) 916 4808The sensational sister

creation of Uchi, helped

by Top Chef Paul Qui. Try

the bacon tataki!

Urban11301 Domain Dr(512) 490 1511Unique twists on Ameri-

can classics. With robust

menus for breakfast,

lunch and dinner, this is

the perfect respite during

any shopping trip to The

Domain.

vespaio1610 s Congress ave(512) 441 6100Daily rotating menus offer

the best of the season and

the freshest from Vespaio’s

bountiful garden and local

markets. A longtime Aus-

tin favorite.

via 313 pizza1111 e 6th st(512) 939 1927Deep-dish, Chicago-style

pizza from an East Austin

food truck- perfect for a

late night out.

vino vino4119 guadalupe st(512) 465 9282 Two words, Mussels and

Fries. This classic, dim-lit

wine joint offers excep-

tional shared plates and

has the some of the friend-

liest service around.

Walton’s fancy and staple609 w sixth st(512) 542 3380This cute downtown café

serves a mean morning

shrimp and grits; your

perfect hangover remedy.

Also an array of delicious

pastries, fresh brewed

coffee and some killer

sandwiches for lunch.

Weather Up 1808 e Cesar Chavez st (512) 524 0464 Cozy and intimate

inside, and laid-back

outdoors seating, bar-

tenders create high-end,

handcrafted drinks

from scratch.

Whip in market & parloUr cafe1950 s Ih-35(512) 442 5337This funky minimart-

café satisfies keep Austin

weird with offbeat décor,

copious beer, and cheap,

tasty food.

Willie g’s401 Congress ave(512) 236 9600Nestled in the first floor of

the Frost Bank building,

this is the spot for Gulf

Coast seafood. The menu

rotates seasonally with

other local offerings.

Winebelly 519 w oltorf (512) 487 1569 Tapas on Oltorf in a cozy

setting: rich small plates

are spins on old favorites

and the wine cocktails

are a welcome surprise.

Winflo osteria1315 w 6th st(512) 582 1027Classic Italian fare made

simply and with locally-

sourced ingredients.

Wright bros. breW & breW500 san marcos, ste 105 (512) 493 0963Come for a coffee and

stay for a beer. The res-

taurant/bar serves up

simple espressos and cof-

fee from Flat Track, an

ovewhelming assortment

of craft beers, and a small

but tasty food menu in

a minimal, industrial

ambiance.

yelloW Jacketsocial clUb1704 e 5th st(512) 480 9572Step out for a drink and stay

for the classic fare, from

sandwiches to frittatas.

z’teJas grill1110 w 6th st(512) 478 5355 &9400-a arboretum blvd (512) 346 3506Austinites wait hours to

get into either the funkier

downtown locale or the

northern spot.

v i e W t h e e n t i r e r e s ta U r a n t g U i d e o n l i n e at T r i B E z a .Co m

Page 125: The May Food Issue

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Page 126: The May Food Issue

124 may 2014 tribeza.com

style l a s t l o o k

With a fierce devotion to house-made

ingredients (including charcuterie, bread, and

condiments), the Noble Sandwich Company

has amassed a cult following of pastrami and

corned beef enthusiasts. We wrote about the m

a few years ago when they opened the original

location (an unassuming storefront that quickly

became an essential road trip for foodies). Since

then, they’ve expanded (a few miles down 620),

and the second restaurant on North Burnet

Road opened last month. Whether you swing by

for breakfast (try the milk biscuit with country

sausage and black pepper gravy) or lunch (for

the namesake Noble Pig—spicy ham, pulled

pork, provolone, and bacon—or a pimiento

cheese with smoked green onions, romaine,

and olive oil pickles), you quickly understand

that their sandwiches are anything but simple.

For instance, the pork in their pulled pork sand-

wich is slathered with herbs and slow-roasted,

moistened with the reduced jus and layered

with house-cured ham and bacon.

“Everybody understands what a sandwich

is,” says Brandon Martinez, who co-owns the

restaurant with John Bates. “Wherever you

grew up and regardless of what you put inside

of it. We use this everyday comfort food as a

catalyst to push the limits of what you can do.”

p. disbroWe

Anatomy ofa Sandwich

White bread: noble Pig's Farmhouse white is en-riched with butter and eggs, which creates a rich but light texture that holds up to the moisture that their hearty sandwiches deliver.

sweet yellow mustard: bates and martinez have been mak-ing mustard in-house since they opened. In addition to an asser-tive whole-grain version, they make a sweet yellow mustard that suggests French Dijon with a touch of sweetness.

olive oil pickles: to make the crunchy condiment, cucumbers and white onions are brined in red wine vinegar for five days, rinsed, then briefly boiled with olive oil, fennel seed, and other aromatics. “the oil softens the acidic punch, but still allows a bright flavor that cuts through the richness of our meats,” martinez says.

mortadella: theirs follows a fairly traditional recipe that’s fla-vored with pistachios, nutmeg, and house-cured pork belly. “the meat is ground twice and emulsi-fied while it’s cold to create a very fine, smooth texture,” martinez explains.

cheddar cheese: makes everything better.

Photog r a Phy by k ate lesu eu r

the fried bologna sandWich ($7)“This is an example of something my mom would make with that red ring bologna and cheese and it was just the best thing ever,” Martinez says. “Ours is more complicated, but the flavors take me back to my childhood. That’s the fun part of our job. We get to turn people on to things they’ve never tried before, but they still have that safety net that ultimately it’s a sandwich.”

the noble pig4805 burnet rd.

(512) 666 5124 noblesandwiches.com

Page 127: The May Food Issue

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