May Food Issue

m ay 2 0 13THE Food issuE

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d e p a r t m e n t s

o n t h e c o v e r :P a s t r y c h e f s : l a u r a s a w i c k i , k y l e m c k i n n e y & c a l l i e s P e e r ; P h o t o g r a P h y b y l e a n n m u e l l e r + f o o d & P r o P

s t y l i n g b y a n n l o w e + h a i r b y b r i t t a n y b e l l + m a k e u P b y r e b e c c a f e r g u s o n o f J o s é l u i s s a l o n .

C o m m u n i t y

social hour 20

kristin armstrong 36

exposed: Jody horton 40

Perspective: todd duplechan 44

things we love 56

A r t s

arts & entertainment calendar 48

artist spotlight 52

s t y l e

Profile in style: elizabeth winslow 116

behind the scenes 120

street style 124

style Pick 126

D i n i n g

dining Pick 128

our little secret 144

featuresKitchen Icons 60

The Return of Jeffrey's 68

Scrumptious Style 78

The Foodie Diaries 92

Secrets of the Staff 102

Sweet Genius 110

Contents m ay 2013

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TRIBEZ A

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Lisa [email protected]

Editor’s Letter

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When we gather around the table, over crumbs and stories, a remarkable thing happens: we become family. For this issue at TRIBEZA, we broke bread and spilled wine with our culinary community, with those who serve, cook, chronicle and love food. You’ll find photographer Jody Horton, who has lovingly captured so many people and plates across the city, on the other side of the lens in this month’s “Exposed” on page 40, while Chef Todd Duplechan of Lenoir trades his spatula for a pen on page 44 and offers us a glimpse into the making of a chef.

As our city’s food scene blossoms, we strive to both remember our culinary past and toast to the future—and S. Kirk Walsh did just that in “The Return of Jeffrey’s” on page 68, an insightful retrospective of the storied Clarksville restaurant and a preview of the institution to come. For “Kitchen Icons” on page 60, we looked beyond our city limits, at legends like Julia Child and Alain Ducasse, who defined modern cuisine. Chefs Laura Sawicki, Ned Elliott and Andrew Francisco paid homage to their culinary ancestors—but with a perspective and a palate of their own. For dessert, Tolly Moseley took a look at Austin’s sweeter side with Pastry Chefs Callie Speer, Kyle McKinney and Janina O’Leary in “Sweet Genius” on page 110.

Behind the scenes, line cooks, sous chefs, servers and bartenders at some of the city’s most noted eateries shared their take on the restaurant world in “Secrets of the Staff” on page 102. Finally, “The Foodie Diaries” (page 92) are a collection of stories about Austin’s most delicious and unexpected culinary events, from the decadent “Killed by Dessert” to the aptly-named “Funky Chicken Coop Tour.”

With such a treasure trove of enchanting and delectable stories, I am honored to call this issue my last. It has been an unforgettable two and a half years, and I have been blessed every day with our city’s creative community, with a thoughtful readership and with an extraordinary family at TRIBEZA. I hope you came hungry—there’s a feast just beyond this page.

eDitor's note: This month, we say goodbye to our lovely editorial assistant Lisa Siva (pictured), as she sets sail for the Big Apple. We have all learned a great deal from this brilliant writer and kind, gentle soul. She has delighted our palate with the most melt in your mouth brioche, challenged us to think about the magazine in new ways, and warmed our hearts with her wholesome zest for life. Lisa signs all her emails "sincerely" and she means it. That's the way she interacts with everyone who is lucky enough to cross her path. As our resident foodie, Lisa will introduce you to this year's Food Issue—of which we are quite proud—and say so long in her own words. Farewell to a true gem and bright light! We can't wait to watch you make your impact on the world. It's going to be big... L. Smith Ford


All aboard!Dogs included.With a seat of their own. Not under the seat.Schedule your family vacation, not the kennel.Capital Wings transporting nuzzles anytime, anywhere.

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Columnist kristin armstrong

illustrAtorJoy gallagher

Writerstodd duplechanmegan gillertolly moseleymarisa rileylisa sivas. kirk walsh

PhotogrAPhersmiguel angelandrew chanJody hortonkate lesueurnicole mlakar-livingstonleann muellerwynn myersJessica PagesJohn Pesinaevan Princematt rainwatersannie raybill sallansJay b sauceda

mailing address 706a west 34th streetaustin, texas 78705

ph (512) 474 4711fax (512) 474 4715www.tribeza.com

founded in march 2001, TRIBEZA is austin's leading locally owned arts and culture magazine.

copyright @ 2013 by TRIBEZA. all rights reserved. repro-duction, in whole or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher, is prohibited.

TRIBEZA is a proud member of the austin chamber of commerce.

a u s t i n a r t s + c u lt u r e

PuBlishergeorge t. elliman

eDitor + CreAtive

DireCtorlauren smith ford

Designerashley horsley

eDitoriAl AssistAnt

lisa siva

events + mArketing

CoorDinAtor staley hawkins

senior ACCountexeCutives

ashley beallandrea brunner

kimberly chassay

PrinCiPAlsgeorge t. elliman

chuck sackvance sack

michael torres

internsallie besing

michelle blammarisa riley

madeline waggonerJessica wiseman

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Inside The Food Issue

A nDre A Dut y, BA ke sA le

TRIBEZA enlisted Andrea Duty of Bake Sale to create the beau-

tiful cakes for the cover and in "Scrumptious Style" on page 78.

Duty grew up in the island town of Anacortes, Washington, and

then headed to the great state of Texas to study Broadcast Jour-

nalism at TCU. In pursuit of a career with a culinary bent, she co-

created a local food and entertainment magazine in Fort Worth

before her passion for cooking drew her to the French Culinary In-

stitute in Manhattan. After graduating with a degree in Classic Cu-

linary Arts, Duty moved to Austin where she honed her pastry skills

in several restaurants. She opened Bake Sale with the simple desire

to create nostalgic desserts that taste really damn good. For more

information on Bake Sale, visit bakesaleaustin.com.

the Bohn house

The historic Bohn House serves as the backdrop for this month's

fashion shoot, "Scrumptious Style" on page 78. Designed by famed

Austin architect Roy L. Thomas, the Bohn house was built in 1938

with a streamlined modern design inspired by science fiction nov-

el "Lost Horizon." Situated on .38 acres with beautiful gardens,

a series of spring-fed fountains and a Koi pond, the property has

sweeping views of downtown Austin. Unique art deco touches are

seen throughout the house, including aluminum rails with crystal

spheres, porthole windows and a circular door. For more informa-

tion on the Bohn House, which is currently on the market, visit

1301west29thstreet.com.

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Photog r a Phy by Joh n Pesin a & m ig u el a ng el

social hour A u s t i n

Social Hour

April issue release Party: 1. Jett butler, avalon mcKenzie & cody Haltom 2. ben edgerton & adi anand 3. Kirsten Dickerson & leigh Patterson 4. erin muller & lori Fox 5. chris bykowski & Noah marion 6. meredith Stoner & Tasha Petty 7. Sam Sanford & ann lowe 8. Hillary bilheimer & ethan brown 9. Joshua & Sarah bingaman10. camille Styles & claire zinnecker 11. Kyle muller & brandon Dickerson

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stylish design couple Cody haltom (pictured right) and Avalon mck-

enzie (center) with Jett Butler of fÖda. haltom is on the design team for Qui, while mckenzie just moved back to austin to work as a designer at whole foods. butler is currently working on branding for beehive, among other projects.

Tribeza style Issue release partyTRIBEZA celebrated the release of our april style issue with HELM Boots during a fashionable evening at their new east side shop. guests enjoyed sips by maker’s mark, Pacifico, victoria and deep eddy vodka, as well as ranch-inspired fare by Contigo.

blogger Camille styles recently signed a book deal with harper col-lins. Claire Zinnecker is an associ-ate designer for Joel mozersky's one eleven design and one of our favorite people to follow on instagram. catch

up on her adventures in design@clairezinnecker.


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22 may 2013 tribeza.comPhotog r a Phy by Joh n Pesin a

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seton Board viP Party: 1. emily Galatzan, elise bridges, & Taylor bowles 2. michael & cheryl Renna 3. leslie Davenport, laura craddick, & Suzanne erickson 4. Katherine Harner & Samantha bernstein 5. amy Deane, lori Johnson & lisa magids 6. abby Ford & molly Jones 7. marshall & beth Durrett 8. martha Small Dyess & lindsay majors 9. meghan & chris Slover 10. michael & Sharon Walker 11. margo Tate & Susan Dunaway

seton Board VIp partyfriends of the Elizabeth Ann Seton Board convened for Celebrate You at the home of meghan and chris slover. the event was the pre-celebration for the live from camp mabry gala that was held on april 13. the events benefitted the seton community health centers.

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24 may 2013 tribeza.comPhotog r a Phy by Joh n Pesin a


louis grachos: 1. Jake Silverstein & Graham Reynolds 2. Tom Hudson & cory Ryan 3. christopher culver & Sasha calvino 4. Darrell Windham, melba Whatley & Will Wynn 5. Danielle Nieciag & Sarah ellison lewis 6. Natalia Prieto & maryam brown 7. michu benaim & lope Gutierrez-Ruiz Big hair Country Fair: 8. alex & Sonnet Wetterichl 9. Katy Sulester, elizabeth Rogers & laura craddick 10. Kristin cowden, clary auler & cynthia Smith 11. Searcy milam & Virginia mcRee

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say Hello to Louis GrachosAMOA-Arthouse welcomed its new executive director, Louis Grachos, during a creative evening of film, music and cuisine. against a backdrop of video art by Jeff kurihara, guests sipped on cocktails by mixologists david alan and Joyce garrison and savored bites by the carillon, lucky robot and more.

Big Hair Country FairThe Big Hair Country Fair celebrated a texas-sized evening of all-you-can eat barbecue, carnival games and dancing to the sounds of chaparral and brave combo. held at the salt lick Pavilion, the fair commemorated the evening with a western-inspired photo booth and benefited Creative Action’s arts education programs.

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5 6Texas Monthly editor Jake silver-stein with musician and composer graham reynolds. explore Texas

Monthly's beautifully redesigned website, and look out for the may

issue, which silverstein says will fea-ture an "incredible guide to unspoiled

adventure along the texas coast."

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current President of the amoa-arthouse board of trustees, Darrell Windham is pictured with the champion for the waller creek project melba Whatley, who just hosted a benefit at Jeffrey's for the creek

as well as a trip to nyc for the board to see the brooklyn bridge Park, former

mayor of austin Will Wynn is pictured right. he continues to spread the austin gospel, advocating for and consulting

on all things green.

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Photog r a Phy by m ig u el a ng el & Joh n Pesin a

Crystal Bash: 1. Josh Parks & lauritz Sparkman-Williams 2. Karen & Rick Hawkins 3. colleen Fitzgerald & angela crockett 4. elizabeth Stanley, emily Haas & chris Pelligrino 5. megan mcIlwain & Katy Hirschfeld 6. Tito & lorie beveridge, becky beaver & John Duncan 7. Katy culmo, Jennifer Kuczaj & liz baskin 8. mike chesser & Theresa Windham 9. Jeff Taylor & christa clark 10. mitch & Janna Jacobson emerging leaders: 11. Kitty clement & bijoulea Finney luminaria: 12. Sofia & Victoria avila

Crystal BashWomen & Their Work celebrated 35 years of art and dynamic female artists at the beautiful home of Alexa and Blaine Wesner. the enchanting evening featured ethereal sounds by dJ mahealani, readings by psychic Joe nicols, a curated silent auction, drinks by tito’s handmade vodka and cuisine by fete accompli.

emerging Leaders Cocktail partyaustinites joined the Eastside Community Connection for an intimate evening at max’s wine dive, complete with hors d’oeuvres and a silent auction. over cocktails, guests showed their support for ecc’s programs, which provide basic needs assistance to low-income austinites and celebrate the strength of our local community.

Luminaria this spring, Luminaria recognized the efforts of the American Red Cross to bring comfort and hope to those in distress. the stylish evening honored three central texas heroes with a beautiful dinner, cocktails and live entertainment in support of the american red cross of central texas and its relief efforts.

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Photog r a Phy by Joh n Pesin a & m ig u el a ng el

Bandana Ball: 1. megan carnathan & lindsay Weeks 2. Paige & aaron brum 3. blake, christine absher & Jordan mullins 4th & goal gala: 4. lance & abigail aldridge 5. elena Trombetta & Ryan Howard 6. mark mcKnight & laura Fowler 7. ben crenshaw & Jadon Garrett shower strike: 8. Shaley Shirley & caitlin christopher 9. Sarah evans & blake mycoskie kelly Wynne: 10. Pam & Kelly White

Bandana Ballamong the sprawling oak trees of wild onion ranch, guests of the Bandana Ball mingled over cocktails, dinner and sounds by the spazmatics, all benefiting the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Austin and Central Texas. the cowboy chic evening aimed to support families of critically ill and hospitalized children in our community.

4th & Goal Galain memory of legendary athlete and coach Darrell K Royal, the Darrell K Royal Fund held an inspiring evening benefiting alzheimer’s disease research. Willie Nelson performed on the acl live stage to support medical schools and research organizations in texas as they strive to treat and cure alzheimer’s.

shower strikeWell Aware led this year’s Shower Strike, a movement for sustainable clean water in kenya. on world water day, the organization partnered with the ONE Campaign for a launch party to celebrate the remarkable volunteers who have pledged not to shower until they have each met their fundraising goals for life-saving water systems in kenya.

Kelly Wynne Handbags Launch partya chic launch party at Valentine’s Too welcomed Kelly Wynne Handbags to austin. kelly wynne white, the texas-based designer, hosted the cocktail hour, featuring drinks, light bites and her striking collection of elegant, structured bags—each one a timeless wardrobe staple.

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Fallen Flowersland design duo Ryan Rhodes and Caleb Owen Everitt showcased a collaborative exhibition of their work, inspired by early iconography and folk art, at farewell books. the texas natives aim to reveal an authentic americana story, told on a canvas of aged and reclaimed industrial fabrics.

Photog r a Phy by Joh n Pesin a


Fallen Flowers: 1. mikaylah bowman & Travis Kent 2. Jason baczynski & Isabela Ruppa 3. bridget Golden, amanda Frazier & Jordan Haeger 4. matt bolick & lily Steckeln5. Ryan Rhodes & Renee Fernandez 6. ashleigh Holeman & mark Tonucci 7. chris King & caleb owen everitt 8. Shelly bowers, Kenny Pursley & Penelope Pursley 5 x 7: 9.Terry & Graham Quinn 10. Sean Ripple & Sean Gaulager 11. adam curry & micky Hoogendijk-curry

Five x seven art spLUrGe after a year-long expansion of the Jones center, AMOA-Arthouse unveiled its beautifully renovated space during the Five x Seven Art SPLURGE, which offered guests an exclusive first look at over 1,000 original 5x7-inch works by emerging and established contemporary artists.

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http://goo.gl/8odhA


Waller Creek Picnic: 1. Jennifer carnes & James White 2. John Spong & Julie blakeslee 3. Sarah o'brien & John Kaercher 4. arash zarfraia & alison biers 5. catherine Gavin & Ingrid Spencer 6. lana mcGilvray & DJ Stout evening under the stars: 7. Jenny Goodwyn & Tiffany o'Shea 8. andrew & anna Halton 9. Sarah & matt Wayne 10. leah & chris Petri 11. laura & bruce Scott

evening Under the stars The Seton Fund and Elizabeth Ann Seton Board held a sparkling gala at camp mabry, featuring music by Jerry Jeff walker and the bellamy brothers. guests enjoyed a sumptuous dinner by lamberts downtown barbeque in support of the Seton Community Health Centers and the Sister Gertrude Levy Endowment for the Poor.

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Waller Creek picnic on the banks of waller creek, austinites spread their blankets across Palm Park for a springtime picnic, hosted by Julie Blakeslee and John Spong and benefiting the Waller Creek Conservancy. notable chefs, including James holmes and larry mcguire crafted delectable baskets for the evening, as guests re-imagined the vibrant landscape of downtown austin.

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Food Can Be a Lot oF tHInGs. It can be sustenance, a crutch, an addiction, an issue, a means of connection, a link to generations past, a source of joy, a sign of holidays, a flavor of childhood, a reminder to take good care of ourselves and each other.

Recently, I witnessed food acting out perhaps its greatest, most noble role—food as comfort. A dear friend of mine lost her hus-band tragically and suddenly, and I watched our community close in around her and her children, filling her home, her heart and her kitchen to overflowing. People arrived in a constant stream, and not knowing what else to do or say, they brought food. Lots of it. There were breakfast tacos, donuts, pastries, BBQ brisket and peppered turkey, beans and potato salad, Chick-fil-A nuggets, sandwich trays, cookie platters, chips and salsa, candy, almonds and plenty of beer and wine. This is southern for: your heart may be broken, but y’all will never, ever go hungry.

This is a beautiful translation of love. It means the same thing it means when I pack my kids' lunches every day: I haven’t forgotten you. I am with you even when I’m not with you. May this act of devo-tion sustain you. I care about how you feel today. Don’t forget where you came from. If you lose your center, here’s a taste of home.

It’s interesting to me that the times we most need to be fed are the times when we have no appetite at all. When we are numb, delirious, exhausted, grieving or ill and can’t feel or heed the normal signals that tell us to pause and refuel. Lightheadedness prevails and hunger pangs diffuse into an overall ache, and we go on fumes until we can-not go anymore. Unless someone kind makes us a plate and sits with us, watching while we eat. Strength takes fuel. Healing requires help.

It also requires endurance. Just like so many people bring so many things in the immediacy surrounding a situation, sometimes the fin-est gift of all is dinner…two months later.

By KrIstIn a rmstronGILLUstr atIon By Joy G a LL aG Her

Food is Love When we can’t taste anything, we need people who instruct us to

eat anyway. We need healthy people who remind us that other people are counting on us to be strong and well-nourished. What we cannot do for ourselves, we can often be inspired to do for others. This is how and why brokenhearted mothers and grieving people everywhere can get out of bed and remain in the land of the living…because they aren’t doing it for themselves. Sometimes, you have to eat and keep eating until one day your appetite returns. You have to smile and keep smiling until the day you are surprised by the presence of joy.

Those who come bearing food, those who are brave enough to step into the vortex of someone else’s pain are like torchbearers for the soul. Their light shines on the path that eventually leads through and beyond, as they touch their flame of faith to the waning wick of the weary.

I know our friend and her children will be fed. I know they will eventually find their joy, and that they will find reasons to smile in the meantime. I know that while their loss may never make sense, they will make peace with the questions. I know that in the face of tremendous pain, they will cultivate unprecedented resilience and unwavering faith. And I know, from the vantage point of adulthood, that those children will not only look back upon the memory of an amazing father, but also recall with absolute awe the raw courage and unfailing fortitude of their mother.

At our very finest, good people are like ants. Even though we are very small in the face of big things, by our collective strength we can carry many times our own weight. I saw ants marching into our friend’s house, carrying food, paper towels, clothing, comfort, strength and memories. And I saw ants crawl out, each transporting a tiny piece of a burden that no family could ever carry alone.

tribeza.com may 2013 37

community C o l u m n

illus tr ation by Joy ga ll ag h er For a limited- edition print , contact joygallagher@g mail .com.

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o ne autumn evening, photographer Jody Horton found him-self in his Mountaineer with chef Jesse Griffiths, hurtling south toward Port Aransas. When they reached the coast,

Horton had eight minutes until sundown to dig a sand pit, build a fire and photograph Griffiths’ saltwater catch. “It’s a little stress-ful but also exhilarating,” he says. “You know you have no time, but you have to pull it off—and you still have to get the shot, despite the odds.” Horton has taken this philosophy with him from Costa Rica to Maine, from deer blinds to peach farms, capturing evocative stories of real people and their food along the way. A native of South Carolina, he discovered his anthropological bent to photography while chronicling food culture in New Mexico as editor of La Cocini-ta: “I love how passionate people are about food,” he says, “and how food—in gathering and preparation—has a natural structure for sto-rytelling.” Though he first moved to Austin with his wife to pursue documentary filmmaking, Horton returned to photography seven years later, when his first son was born. Since then, he has photo-graphed people and their plates for the likes of Bon Appétit and Texas Monthly, creating bright, vibrant work with a lingering filmic quality, a sense of a narrative unfolding beyond the edges of the pho-tograph. “Often, food photos can be very static, so I’m conscious of trying to bring an element of movement,” he says. “The overarching aim is for it to feel right and honest in some way.” For more informa-tion about Jody Horton and his work, visit jodyhorton.com. L. sIVa

Jody HortonPhotograPher

What is the most beautiful place in the world you’ve visited?i’ve been lucky to travel all over, but no place is as beautiful to me as the marshlands of the carolina coast where i grew up.

What is your idea of the perfect meal? a dozen raw oysters, a whiskey and a beer.

If you could own any photograph in the world, what would it be? The Pond—Moonlight by edward steichen. i would keep it a while, and then sell it.

What is one thing most people don’t know about you?that i was born in germany.

What was your favorite childhood food?fried shrimp. What are your travel essentials?hat, toothbrush, carry-on sized bag and magazine (if flying). Who or what most inspires you?my wife and two sons.

If you weren’t in your current career, what would you be?a writer, probably. i started out writing, but it was

too hard, so i picked up photography.What is the biggest challenge you have

overcome?Juggling the competing needs of work, family life and sleep. this is an ongoing challenge.

If you could share a meal with anyone, living or dead, who would it be? my grandfather, Joe moore. i’d like him to see the boys especially.

If you were an inventor, what would you invent?i am an inventor—and i’m not telling.

What is your favorite time period? now.

1 2 Q u e s t i o n s f o r J o d y

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In HIs oWn Words

Todd DuplechanoWNeR , leNoIR

Food is the language he’s spoken around the world—but love and a dream brought this innovative chef back home.

I grew up in the suburbs of Dallas in Richardson, Texas. Most of my family were some motley mix of German and Acadian, and eating was always the main event for family get-togethers and

holidays. My parents divorced when I was young, so my eating habits varied by household. With my mother’s side of the family, weekends began on Friday nights with cookouts and car mainte-nance, stretching all the way to Sunday evenings. I was a pretty skinny kid, mostly up to no good, but my parents kept me and my sister busy with housework, yard work and lots of family weekend cookouts.

Time at my dad’s Cajun household, by com-parison, meant eating out at different restaurants hidden in various strip malls around Dallas. My father had been in almost every branch of the military as a young man and had developed a taste for Asian food. He was only interested in the most authentic food, so we spent many a night in restaurants with menus we couldn't read, pointing at what we wanted to eat. Dim sum, sushi and pho were all things I regularly ate as an 8-year-old...and it was great! When we were home, we ate off the land as old farmers do, even though we were still in the middle of the Richardson suburbs. My dad was, and still is, a Master Gardener and keeper of any number of “pets”—although our rabbits, turtles and pigeons all eventually became dinner. It might have seemed depressing at the time, but it was the beginning of my understanding of where food comes from.

My first restaurant job was working for a

friend’s family’s restaurant, Solly’s BBQ, a Dallas icon for over 50 years. While most of my friends there wanted to work the take-out or the cash register, I volunteered to be in the kitchen doing anything. I would work split shifts starting at 9 am with pulling the briskets and cutting and cleaning a 50-gallon trash can full of potatoes before par-frying them. I worked the lunch rush as the gopher for the guys working the chopping block. I’d be out by 1 pm and back by 5 pm for the dinner, when I got to work the block. At the end of the night, I put the briskets on the smoker. I never got tired of it.

After high school, I moved to Denver to work on my mountain biking and try to get into architecture school. I kept cooking to pay my bills, but after failed attempts at both biking and admissions, I started to consider cooking a viable career. I ended up at the Colorado Institute of Art, and while in school, I realized that I could use a job as a cook as an excuse to travel, which is really what I wanted most. Cooking is like a universal language that allowed me to move from Denver to Atlanta to Europe and then the Carib-bean and finally, to New York City. At every stop, I hit town with no job, no place to live and made short work of finding both. I worked for a while, made friends and a little money and then moved on to the next city. I may not have been working at the best or fanciest places in town, but I was gaining life and restaurant culture experience that prepared me for the next step.

In New York, I had the most profound changes of my life up to that point. I found a city and a girl with whom I felt a kinship. I met Jessica when we

were working at sister restaurants in lower Man-hattan, both just recent transplants. Eventually, as our relationship grew and our careers took us all over the city, we started plotting our futures. We knew a decision had to be made about wheth-er to stay in New York or pursue something of our own in a place that was more realistic. Because we both had family in Texas, we knew we would have support enough to give business ownership a real shot. We were already engaged with plans to get married at the Salt Lick in May 2007, so we took our honeymoon early and then headed to Austin with zero cash in our pockets, looking for jobs and a new start.

Austin has really turned out to be just the right fit for both of us personally and profes-sionally. I got a job almost immediately after arriving with the Four Seasons Hotel, working on a new restaurant concept to transform the old Café, which became TRIO. We met and made friends with wonderful, like-minded people like Marla Camp and Jenna Noel from Edible Austin, who became almost our person-al guides to the city and introduced us to Dai Due, Cibo, Boggy Creek Farm and Green Gate Farm. I’ve learned how to be a conscientious hunter, gatherer and supporter of local growers and producers. I’m getting more balance in my work and personal life, too.

Six years after moving here, we opened our family restaurant, LENOIR, with a lot of help from our friends and family. One year in, I have the benefit of looking back and saying the deci-sion to move to Austin was maybe serendipitous, and I feel a lot of pride in being a Texan.

community P e r s P e C t i v e

Photog r a Phy by w yn n myer s44 may 2013 tribeza.com

1900 University Avenue · atx TheCarillonRestaurant.com 404.3655 Facebook /The CarillonRestaurant Twitter@CarillonAustin

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Entertainment Calendar

maYcaleNDaRS

arts & entertainment

MusicmetriCmay 1, 7pmstubb's

JeWel may 1, 8pmacl live at the moody theater

Jimmy BuFFett AnD the CorAl reeFer BAnDmay 2, 7pmcircuit of the americas

JAvier ChAPArro & sAluDmay 2, 7:30pmthe long center

QuAttro mAnimay 3-4, 8pmthe long center

WhitmAnmay3, 9:30pmlamberts

roDrigueZmay 4, 8pmfrank erwin center

lone stAr JAmmay 4-5the lbJ lawn

JAson AlDeAnmay 5, 5:30pmcircuit of the americas

Jim JAmesmay 5acl live at the moody theater

Phoenixmay 6acl live at the moody theater

DiAnA krAllmay 7acl live at the moody theater

the killersmay 10, 7pmcedar Park center

PAChAngA lAtino musiC FestivAlmay 10-11fiesta gardens

DAle eArnhArDt Jr. Jr.may 11, 8pmthe Parish

sArA BAreillesmay 17, 8pmthe Parish

the FAB Fourmay 18, 8pmthe Paramount theater

DAve mAttheWs BAnDmay 21, 7pmcircuit of the americas

tAylor sWiFtmay 21, 7pmfrank erwin center

lyle lovett & roBert eArl keenmay 21-22, 8pmthe Paramount theater

An evening With sounDgArDenmay 25, 8pmaustin music hall

FilmZAZie DAns le metromay 14, 7-9pmthe marchesa hall and theatre

the First grADermay 18, 8pmstateside at the Paramount

tokyo storymay 21, 7-9pmthe marchesa hall and theatre

liFe ArChiteCturAlly, 2011may 22, 8pmamoa-arthouse at the Jones center

the mAkiokA sistersmay 28, 7-9pmthe marchesa hall and theatre

TheatretrouBle PuPPet theAtremay 2-25salvage vanguard theater

the Winter's tAlemay 2-26hillside theatre in Zilker Park

PrisCillA Queen oF the Dessertmay 8-12bass concert hall

BAllet Austin's gisellemay 10-12 the long center

hArveymay 15-June 16Zach theatre

Austin lAtino neW PlAy FestivAlmay 16-18the long center

tWelve Angry menmay 16-June 9the city theatre

Blue lAPis light heAven eArth onemay 19-26the long center

ComedyJoey DiAZmay 2-4cap city comedy club

Chris tuCkermay 3, 7pmbass concert hall

tom segurAmay 8-11cap city comedy club

Bert kreisChermay 23-25cap city comedy club

ross mAttheWs may 30, 8pmthe Paramount theatre

ChildrenCAsA kiDs golD ClAssiCmay 6, 2pmthe hills country club

sCooBy-Doo live! musiCAl mysteries may 19frank erwin center

Peter PAnmay 23-24stateside at the Paramount

WhAt's the story, steve?saturdays in maycoldtowne theater

Otherst. DAviD's FounDAtion's toAst oF the toWnthrough may 18the driskill hotel

mother AnD me teAmay 4, 12:30-3pmgreen Pastures

insAnely gooD lunChmay 4, 1-3pmamoa-arthouse at the Jones center

PerFeCtly Pink PArtymay 4, 5:30-10:30pmshoal crossing

heArt BAll oF Austinmay 4, 6-11pmhilton austin

gAlA Del museo Arte y glAmourmay 5, 6-9pmfour seasons hotel

FArm to PlAtemay 9, 6:30pmbarr mansion

PArAmount & stAtesiDe theAtres' AnniversAry gAlA may 11, 6pmthe Paramount theatre

emAnCiPet's 14th AnniversAry lunCheonmay 13, 11:30am-1pmfour seasons hotel

Art BrA Austinmay 18, 7-11pmaustin music hall

stuDio 54kliFt FunDrAisermay 18, 9pm-12amZach theatre

in ConversAtion: oliver stonemay 24, 7:30pmthe Paramount theatre


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“Zauber” that goes far beyond

Bier und Brats.

If you come to Fredericksburg anticipating authentic

German cuisine, we will not disappoint. But further

exploration will reveal restaurateurs that offer decidedly

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naughty desserts. All complemented by award-winning

cabernets, tempranillos, viogniers and rieslings from our

numerous vineyards and wineries. Incidentally, “Zauber”

is the German word for “magic.” Guten Appetit. H

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Arts Calendar

arts & entertainment C A l e n D A r s

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I t's easy to lose yourself in the Blanton Museum of Art's latest exhibition, Through the Eyes of Texas: Masterworks from Alumni Collections. On display through May 19, the presentation features extraordinary works that span cen-

turies and genres, all curated from the private collections of University of Texas at Austin alumni. Featuring iconic masterpieces, ancient artifacts and mixed media installments, the exhibition is as diverse as the collectors who brought it to life. "Through the Eyes of Texas provides an opportunity for visitors to see a range of works that are rarely on public display and many that are outside the scope of our collection," says Simone Wicha, Director of the Blanton Museum. "One piece after another is stunning, captivating and thought-provoking." From a Monet Water Lillies painting and costume designs for the Ballets Russes to a funeral urn dating back to the Liao Dynasty, each piece has a story of its own—not only of its maker but also of the alumnus who found and acquired it. Against a backdrop of a second-century Roman bust and paintings by Rousseau and Picasso, Through the Eyes of Texas is especially compelling when we imagine the people who uncovered that Rauschenberg canvas or a sliver of Mayan flint and brought these works into their homes. "Many of the alumni whose works are on display are leaders in their respective fields but were not art majors—they're lawyers, businessmen and scientists—yet they've all chosen to have art as part of their lives," Wicha says. "Through the exhibi-tion, you see the impact that these alumni are having both on their communities and on the larger cultural landscape." For more information about Through the Eyes of Texas: Masterworks from Alumni Collections, visit blantonmuseum.org. m. BLam

MAY 3 gAllery BlACk lAgooneverythingreception, 7-10pmthrough may 26

MAY 4WAlly WorkmAn gAllerycarol dawson: the great Piece of turfreception, 6-8pmthrough may 25

MAY 5reD sPACe gAlleryglenn twiggs: nuclear fictionartist's talk, 5-6:30pm

MAY 10grAyDuCk gAlleryred left blue rightreception, 7-9pmthrough June 16

MAY 18yArD Dog Art gAlleryscott griffinthrough June 14

lorA reynolDs gAllerygraham dolphinthrough July 20

OngOIng

AmoA-Arthouse At the Jones CenterJaakko Pallasvuothrough may 19nicolas Provostthrough June 9o século

Pinaree sanpitak: temporary insanityseher shah: constructed landscapesthrough June 30

BlAnton museum oF Artrestoration and revelationthrough may 5through the eyes of texas through may 19

gAllery shoAl Creekgreg kreutz, Jennifer bell & tony saladinothrough may 25

hArry rAnsom Centerarnold newman: masterclassthrough may 12

lorA reynolDs gAlleryrichard foster and ewan gibbsthrough may 11

mexiC-Artemasked: changing identitiesunmasked: lucha librethrough may 25

russell ColleCtion Fine Artcourt lurie: nexusthrough may 5

visuAl Arts Centermfa studio art exhibitionthrough may 11

West Austin stuDio tourthrough may 5

Women AnD their Workkelly o'connor: last resortthrough may 9

e v e n t P i C k

Through the Eyes of Texas: Masterworks from Alumni CollectionsBlanton museum of art200 e. martin Luther King Blvd.blantonmuseum.orgthrough may 19

at the blanton museum, Through the Eyes of Texas offers a look back at timeless pieces of art and the university alumni who loved them.


http://goo.gl/TISPb

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MuseumsAustin ChilDren’s museum201 colorado st. (512) 472 2499 hours: tu 10–5, w 10–8, th–sa 10–5, su 12–5 austinkids.org

AmoA-Arthouse the Jones Center700 congress ave. (512) 453 5312 hours: w 12-11, th-sa 12-9, su 12-5 arthousetexas.org

AmoA-Arthouse lAgunA gloriA3809 w. 35th st. (512) 458 8191 driscoll villa hours: tu–w 12-4, th-su 10–4 grounds hours: m–sa 9–5, su 10–5 amoa.org

BlAnton museum oF Art200 e. mlk Jr. blvd. (512) 471 7324 hours: tu– f 10–5, sa 11–5, su 1–5 blantonmuseum.org

the BoB BulloCk texAs stAte history museum1800 congress ave. (512) 936 8746 hours: m–sa 9–6, su 12–6 thestoryoftexas.com

elisABet ney museum304 e. 44th st. (512) 458 2255 hours: w–sa 10–5, su 12–5 ci.austin.tx.us/elisabetney

FrenCh legAtion museum802 san marcos st. (512) 472 8180 hours: tu–su 1–5 frenchlegationmuseum.org

george WAshington CArver museum1165 angelina st. (512) 974 4926 hours: m–th 10–9, f 10–5:30, sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/carver

hArry rAnsom Center300 e. 21st st. (512) 471 8944 hours: tu–w 10–5, th 10–7, f 10–5, sa–su 12–5 hrc.utexas.edu

lBJ liBrAry AnD museum2313 red river st. (512) 721 0200 hours: m–su 9–5 lbjlibrary.org

mexiC–Arte museum419 congress ave. (512) 480 9373 hours: m–th 10–6, f–sa 10–5, su 12–5 mexic–artemuseum.org

o. henry museum409 e. 5th st. (512) 472 1903 hours: w–su 12–5

umlAuF sCulPture gArDen & museum605 robert e. lee rd. (512) 445 5582 hours: w–f 10–4:30, sa–su 1–4:30 umlaufsculpture.org

arts & entertainment m u s e u m s & g A l l e r i e s

a s we look to the future of modern medicine, an ethical debate about genetic engineering has begun around the world—and Jessica Halonen has placed her art at the center of the conversation. Her

recent project, Rx Garden, explores historical and contemporary practices of pharmaceutical production, reimagining the vocabulary of biotechnology in aesthetic terms. At once enchanting and uneasy, Rx Garden evokes Halonen's fascination with the juxtaposition of the natural and the technological. In "Sticky Ends," for example, wiry maple and birch branches twist and entwine in a double helix, joined together by synthetically-colored resin. The title refers to the controversial practice of gene splicing, used to grow various proteins to be harvested for drug production, but the piece itself—like much of the project—resists simple ethical judgment. Equally striking are the two-dimensional representations of plant-based pharmaceuticals as vivid gouache paintings. From "Etoposide Phosphate" to "VePesid"—both named for cancer-fighting drugs—each surreal piece fuses geometric shapes with natural ones, a beautiful, yet unsettling reminder of the way in which nature may be commoditized and made artificial. For more information about Jessica Halonen and her work, visit jessicahalonen.com. Her work is on display at AMOA-Arthouse at Laguna Gloria until May 26. m. BLam

A r t i s t s P o t l i g h t

Jessica Halonen


arts & entertainment m u s e u m s & g A l l e r i e s

galleriesArt on 5th1501 w. 5th st. (512) 481 1111 hours: m–sa 10–6 arton5th.com

the Art gAllery At John-WilliAm interiors 3010 w. anderson ln.(512) 451 5511hours: m–sa 10–6, su 12–5jwinteriors.com

ArtWorks gAllery1214 w. 6th st. (512) 472 1550 hours: m–sa 10–5 artworksaustin.com

Austin Art gArAge2200 s. lamar blvd., ste. J (512) 351-5934hours: tu–sa 11–6, su 12–5 austinartgarage.com

Austin Art sPACe gAllery AnD stuDios7739 north cross dr., ste. Q (512) 771 2868 hours: f–sa 11–6 austinartspace.com

CAPitAl Fine Art1214 w. 6th st.(512) 628 1214hours: m-sa 10-5capitalfineart.com

ChAmPion800 brazos st. (512) 354 1035 by appt. only championcontemporary.com

CreAtive reseArCh lABorAtory2832 e. mlk Jr. blvd. (512) 322 2099 hours: tu–sa 12–5 uts.cc.utexas.edu/~crlab

DAvis gAllery837 w. 12th st. (512) 477 4929 hours: m–f 10–6, sa 10–4 davisgalleryaustin.com

FlAtBeD Press2830 e. mlk Jr. blvd. (512) 477 9328 hours: m-f 10-5, sa 10-3 flatbedpress.com

gAllery BlACk lAgoon4301-a guadalupe st. (512) 371 8838 hours: sa 1-5 galleryblacklagoon.com

gAllery shoAl Creek2905 san gabriel st., #101 (512) 454 6671 hours: tu–f 11–5, sa 11–4 galleryshoalcreek.com

grAyDuCk gAllery608 w. monroe dr. (512) 826 5334 hours: w 11-6, th 4-8, f-sa 11-6, su 12-5 grayduckgallery.com

JeAn–mArC FrAy gAllery1009 w. 6th st. (512) 457 0077 hours: m–sa 10–6 jeanmarcfray.com

lA PeñA227 congress ave., #300 (512) 477 6007 hours: m-f 8-5, sa 8-3 lapena–austin.org

lorA reynolDs gAllery360 nueces st., #50(512) 215 4965hours: w-sa 11-6lorareynolds.com

lotus gAllery1009 w. 6th st., #101

(512) 474 1700 hours: m–sa 10-6 lotusasianart.com

the nAnCy Wilson sCAnlAn gAllery 6500 st. stephen’s dr. (512) 327 1213 hours: m-f 9-5 sstx.org

okAy mountAin gAllery1619 e. cesar chavez st.sa 1-5 or by appointment(512) 293 5177 okaymountain.com

Positive imAges 1118 w. 6th st. (512) 472 1831 hours: m-sa 10-5, su 12-4

Pro–Jex gAllery1710 s. lamar blvd., ste. c (512) 472 7707 hours: m–f 10–6, sa 12–4

reD sPACe gAllery1203 w. 49th st. by appointment only redspacegallery.com

russell ColleCtion Fine Art1137 w. 6th st.(512) 478 4440 hours: tu–sa 10–6 russell–collection.com

soFA1319 rosewood ave.by appointment onlysofagallerytx.com

stePhen l. ClArk gAllery1101 w. 6th st. (512) 477 0828 hours: tu–sa 10–4 stephenlclarkgallery.com

stuDio 101011 west lynn

hours: tu–sa 11–5 (512) 236 1333 studiotenarts.com

testsite502 w. 33rd st. (512) 453 3199 by appt. only fluentcollab.org

WAlly WorkmAn gAllery1202 w. 6th st. (512) 472 7428 hours: tu–sa 10–5 wallyworkman.com

Women & their Work1710 lavaca st. (512) 477 1064 hours: m–f 10–6, sa 12–5 womenandtheirwork.org

yArD Dog1510 s. congress ave. (512) 912 1613 hours: m–f 11–5, sa 11–6, su 12–5 yarddog.com

Alternative Spaces

ArtPost: the Center For CreAtive exPression4704 e. cesar chavez st.artpostaustin.com

Austin PresenCe330 bee cave rd., #700 (512) 306 9636 hours: tu–f 10–6, sa 10–4austinpresence.com

BAy6 gAllery & stuDios5305 bolm rd.(512) 553 3849by appointment onlybay6studios.com

Big meDium5305 bolm rd., #12 (512) 939 6665 bigmedium.org

ClArksville Pottery & gAlleries4001 n. lamar blvd., #550(512) 454 9079hours: m-sa 11-6, su 1-4

Co-lAB ProJeCt sPACe613 allen st. (512) 300 8217 by appointment only colabspace.org

FAreWell Books913 e. cesar chavez st. (512) 476 domy hours: mon-sa 12–8, su 12–7 domystore.com

JuliA C. ButriDge gAllery1110 barton springs rd. (512) 974 4025 hours: m–th 10–9:30, f 10–5:30, sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/ dougherty/gallery.htm

PumP ProJeCt Art ComPlex702 shady ln. (512) 351 8571 pumpproject.org

QuAttro gAllery12971 Pond springs rd. (512) 219 3150 hours: m–tu 10–3, w–sa 11–4 quattrogallery.com

roi JAmes3620 bee cave rd., ste. c (512) 970 3471by appointment only roijames.com

sPACe 123121 e. 12th st. (512) 524 7128 t-f 10-5 space12.org

Fredericksburg

AgAve gAllery208 e. san antonio st.hours: m-sa 10-5(830) 990 1727agavegallery.com

ArtisAns At roCky hill234 w. main st. (830) 990 8160hours: m-sa 10-5:30, su 11-3artisansatrockyhill.com

FreDeriCksBurg Art gAllery314 e. main st.(830) 990 2707hours: m-sa 10-5:30, su 12-5fbartgallery.com

insight gAllery214 w. main st.(830) 997 9920hours: tu-sa 10-5:30insightgallery.com

Whistle Pik425 e. main st.(830) 990 8151hours: m-sa 10-5

To have your gallery considered for listing inthe Arts Guide, please send a request to [email protected].


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t I p s y t e x a n : s p I r I t s a n d C o C K ta I L s F r o m t H e L o n e s ta r s tat e For bartender David Alan, the art of the craft cocktail is an imbiber's adventure, an exploration of fresh ingredients and local spirits. Next month, he'll toast to the drinks and stories he's discovered across Texas with his new recipe book, Tipsy Texan: Spirits and Cocktails from the Lone Star State—the first to highlight Texas' cocktail scene. Pairing colorful recipes with history and folklore, the book is perfect for "the adventurous home bartender," who'll find ample flavor in its pages. Tipsy Texan offers a suite of classic recipes with a distinctly Texas twist, complete with drinks like Alan's Fig Daiquiri, Persimmon Margarita and the Corpse Reviver 3000, made with Paula's Texas Orange and Tenneyson Absinthe. "Learning how to make and enjoy drinks is an adventure," Alan says. "Readers should use this book in the way they would use a cookbook—it's okay to follow the recipe verbatim or use it as a jumping-off point for their own inspiration." Tipsy Texan: Spirits and Cocktails from the Lone Star State is available for pre-order on Amazon.com and will be released on June 11. David Alan offers Tipsy Texan classes throughout the year. For more information, visit tipsytexan.com. L. sIVa

aFIeLdOn a blustery day in Wimberly, Jesse Griffiths set out with photographer Jody Horton to hunt wild turkey. Within seconds, Griffiths had shot two birds, and after an hour, they had a deer, too. "It was a perfect combination of luck, perseverance and a little skill, which is exactly what hunting and fishing are all about," he says. "It's a labor of love." This respect for the hunt underlies his book, Afield, which earned the author a James Beard nomination this year. The

volume, however, is less a cookbook than a love letter to sourcing locally, to nature's unpredictability and to the challenges between the field and the plate. With an emphasis on the process, rather than the finished dish, each chapter chronicles Griffiths' adventures, from the initial hunt and catch to the preparation and cooking. Whether readers are novices in the field or skilled hunters and fisherman, Afield is a compelling invitation to deepen our relationships with food and where it comes from: "I want everyone to reclaim hunting and fish-ing," Griffiths says. "Get to know life and death, and you'll make better choices about food in general, and possibly beyond." For more information about Jesse Griffiths and Afield, visit daidueaustin.net.

t H e a U s t I n F o o d B L o G G e r a L L L I a n C e C o o K B o o K

From Welsh Cakes by an English transplant to Persian stew by an Iranian blogger, the pages of The Austin Food Blogger Alliance Cookbook paint a vibrant portrait of our city's culinary scene. Released last month, the cookbook features essays, stories and recipes from over 70 local members of the Austin Food Blogger Alliance, all celebrating our growing food community. "Community cookbooks become a snapshot of the communities in which the contributors live," cookbook editor and Austin American-Statesman food writer Addie Broyles remarks, "and we really wanted to be able to tell the story of Austin food through the eyes of the people who love food enough to start a blog about it." Reflections on Austin's craft cocktails, canning movement and urban farms accompany a collection of a hundred recipes that together evoke the diversity of our capital city. "Our food scene is growing by leaps and bounds every year, and those of us who live here all experience

it differently," Broyles says. "I hope readers can see themselves in some of the bloggers and get some fun recipes that showcase Austin's diverse tastes while they're at it." For more information about the Austin Food Blogger Alliance and its cookbook, visit austinfoodbloggers.org.

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Three AusTin chefs pay tribute to the c u l i n a ry l eg e n d s w h o i n s p i r e t h e m .


iconic chefs are like a pantheon of demigods, striding through kitchens and into a rich tradition of culinary lore. There are stories, for example, of hervé This, the man who unboiled an egg, and of Marco Pierre White, who reduced Gordon ramsay to tears—but behind the legends are the men and women who have shaped cuisine for the modern plate, who have reclaimed their art with pride. To honor these unforgettable chefs, we invited three of their local culinary descendents to share their stories and recipes: Andrew Fran-

cisco of Mettle turned to mentor Thomas Keller, while Laura Sawicki of La condesa and sway looked to Julia child, and Ned Elliott of foreign and Domestic paid homage to Alain Ducasse. As they remember their kitchen icons, these Austin chefs celebrate a colorful culinary legacy.


According to legend, there is an episode of Julia Child’s Baking Series in

which Julia Child takes a bite of Nancy Silverton’s decadent brioche tart.

Tears stream down her cheeks as she looks into the camera and declares,

“It’s a dessert to cry over. This is the best dessert I’ve ever eaten.” It’s stories

like this that inspire Laura Sawicki, the Food & Wine-lauded pastry chef at

La Condesa and Sway. “I love when food has such a beautiful story behind it,”

she says. “And above anything else, this tart is absolutely delicious.”

For her twist on Julia Child’s famous dessert, Sawicki created a crust of

buttery brioche dough, filled it with a coconut cream and dusted it with sug-

ar. Afterward, she’ll finish the tart with a fruit compote and a scoop of bright

marigold ice cream. “It’s interactive—you can take the leftover brioche and run

it through the ice cream and scoop up all your fruit,” she observes. “It’s defi-

nitely not a traditional tart by any stretch of the imagination.” Of course, Child

herself was no traditional cook either: “We all grew up watching Julia Child,”

Sawicki says, as she spoons lemon-macerated strawberries onto a crispy

layer of sugar. “She made the profession of cooking accessible to women

and introduced French cuisine to everyone. She’s absolutely remarkable and

adorable—what’s not to love about her?”

Like her predecessor half a century ago, Sawicki looks to the craft of

pastry as a way to connect with others, whether they’re in their homes or

working the line at the back of the house. “It’s about sharing the love we

have not only through food, but also through education,” she says, noting

her hands-on style of teaching in the kitchen. “Dessert is something that

everyone can relate to on a very nostalgic level—it’s a really wonderful, spe-

cial way of bringing community together, of breaking bread with friends

and family.” For more information about Laura Sawicki, visit lacondesa.

com and swayaustin.com.

l a u r a s a w i c k i of La Condesa & Sway

J u l i a c h i l d ’ s b r i o c h e t a r t


pastry chef laura sawicki (pictured)counts her grandmother foremost among her kitchen heroes. “she was an absolute inspiration, and everything she made was extraordinary,” sawicki says, remembering her grandmother’s secret apple strudel recipe.

at right is the brioche tart that made Julia child cry—and sawicki hopes to evoke the same passion in her own guests. “it’s fun to see the looks on their faces, the eyes rolling back, the fingers pointing at the food,” she says. “the feeling i get when some-one is enjoying my food is amazing.”


One morning at Foreign & Domestic, Chef Ned Elliott is pan-roasting a

whole chicken to the bold sounds of Thin Lizzy’s Jailbreak. Studded with

truffles and rich with the flavors of sherry vinegar, shallots and herbs,

the dish is a fitting homage to his mentor, Alain Ducasse, owner of the

now-shuttered Alain Ducasse at Essex House. “He searched far and wide

for the best ingredients and spared no expense for product,” Elliott re-

members of the Monégasque chef, who has almost two dozen Michelin

stars under his belt. “His mantra is attention to detail.”

It’s the same mantra that now drives Elliott at Foreign & Domestic,

where he strives to imagine the full potential of each ingredient—his beet

salad, for example, features poached beets, a beet puree, beet chips and

beets cooked in caramel. “A big thing for Chef Ducasse is showing an in-

gredient in different manners,” he says, as he transfers the chicken to the

n e d e l l i o T T of Foreign & Domestic | a l a i n d u c a s s e ’ s p o a c h e d c h i c k e n

oven. “You have to handle an ingredient correctly and with enough esteem,

whether it’s a beet or a baby goat or a lamb, to be able to show it in different

aspects.”

It’s been nearly a decade since Elliott worked the line at Alain

Ducasse, but for the nose-to-tail chef, the pleasure of creating a deli-

cious plate is unforgettable. “The one thing that gives me the rush of

playing sports is being in the kitchen,” he says. “It’s instant gratifica-

tion—you know if you won or lost at the end of the night.” That play-

ful, uninhibited quality has followed Elliott into the kitchen, where he

continues to push the scope of his cuisine. “It’s food,” Elliott adds. “Let’s not

take it so seriously. Let’s have fun and learn from our mistakes and keep

growing every day.” For more information about Ned Elliott and Foreign &

Domestic, visit fndaustin.com.

though chef ned elliott has worked in some of the country’s finest kitchens, from adny to per se, his fondest food memories are ones spent at home with his two mothers. “i grew up ramp hunting with my family in ohio,” he says. today, he’ll preserve the beautiful simplicity of the vegetable in a classic ramp risotto for spring.


Fragrant with truffles and herbs, this dewberry hills chicken is served with baby vegetables from Johnson’s backyard garden. “we’re here to provide good, solid food that’s sourced as thoughtfully as possible,” elliott says.


Garnished with beautiful herbs grown in Chef Francisco’s urban garden, this salmon tartare reimag-ines Thomas Keller’s signature dish with a global perspective.


After hanging his toque in kitchens across the city, Chef Andrew Fran-

cisco is exploring a culinary landscape of his own at Mettle. For the up-

coming East Austin eatery, helmed by Bridget Dunlap, the chef took in-

spiration from classic bistro fare—a cuisine no one does better, he says,

than the Michelin-starred Thomas Keller. A veteran of The French

Laundry in Yountville, California, Francisco paid tribute to his mentor

with a lush salmon tartare atop crisp flatbread, drizzled with vanilla

vinaigrette and garnished with a harvest of fresh herbs, Thai chilies

and salmon roe. “Thomas Keller taught me to respect ingredients,” he

says. “He kept it honest, getting the right ones and letting them speak

for themselves.”

Francisco’s tartare is a variation on Keller’s famous amuse-bouche,

still served today at The French Laundry in a baked cornet and topped

with crème fraîche and red onions. Where Keller’s tartare is distinctly

French, however, Francisco draws from memories of Malaysia and his

own culinary perspective. “One of the things Keller taught me was to

put your personality into your food and take that risk,” Francisco says.

“It isn’t really about how you use salt or who has better knife skills—

it comes down to what you think is delicious.” Layering purple oxalis,

mint and nasturtium leaves like thoughtful brushstrokes on the tar-

tare’s canvas, Francisco builds flavor profiles from the top down. “That’s

my new thing—the food seasons itself as you eat it,” he remarks. “Every

bite is different, from a bit of mint and chili to a sweeter spoonful of

vanilla and nasturtium.”

Alongside an inviting menu of reinvented bistro classics, like fish

and butternut squash or a cheeseburger with avocado and housemade

lardo, the tartare is a nod to Keller’s whimsical culinary aesthetic.

“Keller reminded us how to have fun with food,” Francisco says, “and

that’s what we’re trying to do at Mettle—create a fun, delicious, unpre-

tentious restaurant. I want people to walk away knowing we truly love

what we do.” For more information about Chef Andrew Francisco and

Mettle, visit dunlapatx.com.

a n d r e w F r a n c i s c o of Mettle

t h o m a s k e l l e r ’ s s a l m o n t a r t a r e


RestauRateuR Larry mc-Guire (pictured right) brings new life to Jeffrey’s, a Clarksville icon founded almost four decades ago by Ron and Peggy Weiss (left).

t h e r e t u r n o f

J e f f r e y ’ sBy S. Kirk Walsh | Photography by LeAnn Mueller

Old and new c o m e t o g e t h e r i n t h e a n t i c i p a t e d r e - o p e n i n g o f o n e

o f a u s t i n ’ s m o s t e x t r a o r d i n a r y f i n e d i n i n g i n s t i t u t i o n s .


At the corner of West Lynn and Twelfth Street,

the pedestrian walk symbol blinks in tandem

with the quiet intersection’s traffic light. On the

nearby corners are a quartet of businesses that

have remained unchanged for more than three

decades—the mortar-and-pestle sign of Nau’s

Enfield Drug, the familiar red glow of Anthony’s

Laundry & Dry Cleaners, the circular sign for Sledd Nursery and the

understated, elegant façade of Jeffrey’s on the northwest corner.

During recent months, as most residents of the Clarksville neigh-

borhood and the city of Austin know, Jeffrey’s has been undergoing

changes ever since Larry McGuire and his restaurant group, McGuire

Moorman Hospitality, purchased the storied establishment. (Over the

past six years, the group has opened six restaurants, each with a differ-

ent concept, including Elizabeth Street Café, Perla’s Seafood & Oyster

Bar and Lamberts Downtown Barbecue.)

The interior of the 1930’s building has been gutted. Electric saws

hum. A large, metallic ventilation hose snakes across the dusty bar-

room floor that overlooks the nearby intersection of West Lynn and

Twelfth Street. Changes to the building are also visible on its exterior:

A new coat of olive paint now covers the former patina green. Border-

ing Twelfth Street, there’s a garden bed with thyme, basil and starter

tomato plants. A small banner for the Austin-based architectural firm

Clayton & Little hangs from one of the slate-gray awnings.

The doors of the “new” Jeffrey’s opened last month, a year after the

“old” Jeffrey’s closed. “I think people have digested that the old restau-

rant is gone,” says McGuire, sitting in his sunlit corner office on the

restaurant’s second floor, “and a new thing is coming.”

Not surprisingly, stories and lore of the old Jeffrey’s are as much a

part of the cultural fabric of Austin as the iconic Amarillo World Head-

quarters or the famous meetings of Frank Dobie, Roy Bedichek and

Walter Prescott Webb at Barton Springs. In 1975, Jeffrey Weinberger

and Peggy and Ron Weiss joined forces to lease the property, which was

the first strip mall in Austin and housed a florist, liquor store and an

ice cream shop. Initially, the team just leased and renovated the florist

shop before expanding to fill the entire building. “We got involved ac-

cidentally,” Ron Weiss explains about Weinberger’s proposal to open a

restaurant in Austin. “We didn’t have a master plan.” It wasn’t before

long that Jeffrey’s built a solid reputation as the best restaurant for fine

dining in the city—and quickly became the go-to place for both special

occasions and casual get-togethers. Regular customers included Holly-

wood stars, politicians, athletes, musicians and nearby residents of the

Clarksville neighborhood. “A great mixture of people were drawn to be-

ing there,” remembers longtime customer Kay Rogers. “You would look

“guests came with

expectations—and

we did our best to

perform.” - Ron Weiss

a look back at the original Jeffrey’s in the 70s.


CloCkwise fRom top: Jeffrey’s Chef de Cuisine, Josh Hines, crafts a menu of classic fine dining cuisine, inspired by the likes of alice Waters; founders Jeffrey Weinberger (right) and Ron Weiss (left) in the restaurant doorway, soon after opening; the original f lower shop that would become Jeffrey’s in 1975.


over and see someone dressed in soccer shorts next to couples dressed

in gowns and tuxedoes.”

Over the years, multiple traditions were established: on Halloween,

all of the customers and staff arrived at the restaurant in full costume.

(One particular Halloween, Chef Emil Vogely dressed up as the Leath-

erface from The Texas Chain Saw Massacre, complete with a chainsaw

fashioned out of a blender motor that provided startling sound effects.)

A Clarksville neighbor, Zelma Maxwell, regularly made her Southern

fried chicken for the staff and their frequent potluck dinners. “She

would come in the kitchen,” Weiss remembers, “and rap her cane on

the floor and say, ‘Y’all get to work.’” Fifteen years ago, when Maxwell

passed away after a brief fight with pancreatic cancer, Weiss and much

of the staff attended her funeral held at Sweet Home Baptist Church,

located down the street from Jeffrey’s. Also, veteran waiter Johnny

Guffey became a longtime favorite among regular customers. “It was

like being the director of a long-running Broadway play,” Weiss says.

“Guests came with expectations—and we did our best to perform.”

McGuire is intent on returning the restaurant to its original vision

while at the same time elevating it to the next level. “We’re trying to rec-

reate the mystique that surrounded Jeffrey’s,” he says. “During recent

years, the restaurant industry has gone toward young chefs and small

plates. There is a high level of food quality but casual atmospheres. I’m

excited about bringing back a serious dining environment that has that

neighborhood, clubby feel.” Many details will remain the same—the

“we’re trying to recreate the mystique that surrounded Jeffrey’s.” - Larry McGuire

JeffRey’s Pastry Chef and Baker Alex Manley (pictured left) and Jose-phine House Chef Jen Jackson (right) have worked in kitchens around the country—and now, they are re-imagining fine dining for the Texas capital.


Ryan smith, the Creative Director of mcGuire moorman Hospitality and head of Jeffrey’s Uniforms and music Programming departments, models a server’s elegant pajama jacket.


multiple-room configuration providing intimate dining for guests, the

private table in the wine cellar, the separate baking kitchen (with up-

dated equipment). As with the earlier incarnation of Jeffrey’s, guests

will have their favorite spots where they dine for special occasions, like

birthdays and anniversaries. “I love traditions like that,” says McGuire.

In regards to the cuisine, McGuire explains that it will be recogniz-

able as classic fine dining with creative inspiration from some of today’s

most respected chefs, such as Alice Waters and Wolfgang Puck. Steak

will play a starring role on the menu, with dry-aged beef provided by

Texas ranchers, including Branch Ranch and Heartbrand Beef. Mem-

bers of McGuire’s cooking team for Jeffrey’s and Josephine House (the

neighboring restaurant with a more casual dining environment, which

opened three months ago and offers rustic fare emphasizing local in-

gredients) include: Chef and Project Manager Rebecca Meeker; Chef

de Cuisine Josh Hines, formerly of Lamberts and Starlite; Josephine

House Chef Jen Jackson, previously at Francis in San Francisco; Pastry

Chef and Baker Alexandra Manley, formerly of Maiya’s in Marfa, as

well as Lamberts and Elizabeth Street Café; and Cathy Strange, who

will oversee the cheese program.

“Overall, I want it to be a very well-rounded, curated experience for

people,” says McGuire. “Our restaurants shouldn’t be just about the

food, the service or the atmosphere. It’s about everything going togeth-

er in a thoughtful way that brings perspective on how you eat.”

Back in 1975, Weinberger and the Weisses sparked something of a

revolution with the opening of Jeffrey’s in Austin. Here, on the time-

less corner of West Lynn and Twelfth Street, McGuire and his team are

primed to set another revolution of sorts into motion by raising the bar

of fine dining, once again, in the capital of Texas.

Joe holm, Project manager and Designer at mcGuire moorman Hos-pitality, models Jeffrey’s valet uniform .


at JeffRey’s, style and cuisine go hand-in-hand to create a thoughtful dining experience. This sleek valet uniform, modeled by Project manager and Designer Joe Holm, was custom designed by matthew Herman of Zac Posen.


the bRand identity system foR JeffRey’s is ClaRksville. We walked the neighborhood collecting plants, leaves and blossoms and stip-pled each one by hand in the studio. Every piece of the Jeffrey’s identity, from uniforms to coasters, gets different art, paired with calligraphic scripts and typography: a post oak leaf on the blazer, a mexican sycamore on a coaster, an acorn on the business card, etc. all in gold, patriot blue, silver and cream. a de facto “monogram” emerged in the process—a stylized post oak leaf with establishment dates—which finds it way into the exterior signs, plates and butter stamps. —Jett Butler of FÖDa

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On a beautiful, spring morning, Carmen and Shawn Bliss (pictured) collect fresh eggs from their flock.

For the Love of Food—three culinary adventure seekers share their favorite Austin experiences.


From blue eggs to a hobbit hole, “funky” doesn’t even begin to describe this coop tour.

Austin is famous for celebrating just about anything. From SXSW to the Zilker Kite Festival, there’s a bullet on Austin’s social calendar for everyone. Even—you guessed it—chicken lovers. The Funky Chicken Coop Tour celebrates the beauty of sustainable living in city dwellings and, more importantly, the communities that surround them.

But before you jump to conclusions (forget that sketch from Portlandia), keep an open mind and remember: this is why we live in Austin. We make “weird” look cool, although there’s nothing weird about cooking fresh, organic eggs for breakfast in the morning. The fact that they might be blue, though—that’s just cool.

If you drove down North Lamar around 10 am on Satur-day, March 30, you may have noticed a large crowd at Buck Moore Feed & Pet Supply. The store’s parking lot was trans-formed into an information center full of vendors showing everything from coop designs to rare breeds of chickens.

Like all festivals, parties and ultra-exclusive-super-se-cret-shows in Austin, this occasion demanded a wristband. Once I grabbed mine, it was straight to the vendor with a pen full of ornamental roosters, hens and what looked like teacup Velociraptors.

Enter Susan Lemke, the PR woman for the Funky Chicken Coop Tour. She introduced me to a few of her fowl friends, including the Modern Game Bantams and Old English Game chickens, which could have been Jurassic Park extras.

B y M A r i s A r i L e y

p h oto g r A p h y B y n i c o L e M L A k A r - L i v i n g s to n

Above, Carmen and Shawn Bliss’ New Hampshire White chicken, Peggy (left), makes her home in the “Eggsplorer” (right), a spaceship made from recycled materials.

Passionate about “sharing the chicken love,” Lemke served as my chicken spirit guide for the day.

After a brief education on chickens—and convincing my-self not to take a docile little Serama rooster home with me—I had the pleasure of meeting Rob Ludlow, owner of BackyardChickens.com. Anyone interested in starting his or her own coop should begin at this online haven for the chicken-inclined, where almost 200,000 chicken enthusi-asts offer support throughout the entire process, from hatch-ing chicks to keeping a flock healthy and happy. “Hundreds of thousands of people are realizing the wonderful benefits of raising a small flock of backyard chickens,” Ludlow men-tioned. “They’re the pets that make you breakfast!”

Armed with a plastic baggy full of dried worms for the chickens and Google Maps, I embarked on my journey. Though Lemke and Ludlow had given me a decent chunk of information on coop-owning, I still had quite a few ques-tions: how does one get started? Are there any benefits be-sides the eggs? And most importantly, what are people nam-ing their chickens?

Coop 11: The RoCk STaRS and TheiRhobbiT hole

Upon approaching Susan Leibrock’s yard, I knew exactly what I was looking at. It was a chicken coop modeled after a hobbit hole—Bilbo Baggins’ hole, to be exact. As if the coop alone weren’t neat enough, its owner chose to name all of its inhabitants after rock stars. “That is Florence,” Leibrock


mentioned, pointing to an Ameraucana pecking at wood chips. “That’s Meg White. And then I have Patti Smith. I had a rooster ‘come calling,’ so I let them hang out for a little bit.” Last month, in fact, Patti hatched two chicks: a baby Jack White and an unnamed grey chick who may turn out to be Adele.

Leibrock, who serves as the Community Relations Direc-tor at the Sustainable Food Center, makes coop-owning look quite glamorous. However, her rationale behind creating it is a different story.

“I have been really inspired over the last five years that I’ve worked for the Sustainable Food Center—which is a nonprofit that runs four of our famers markets in town—to keep my own flock,” she said. “And I love eggs; it’s my favorite food!”

Coop 6: The neighboRhood peTS

Ellie Hanlon and her husband moved from Brooklyn to Austin four years ago. Inspired by coops her former neighbors main-tained (yes, in Brooklyn!), she was determined to start her own. With the goal of fresh eggs in mind, she got something much more out of owning a coop: pets.

“These are all the neighborhood kids,” Hanlon said, point-ing to a group of children running through the yard. “They really are like neighborhood pets, and everyone is eagerly waiting for that first egg.”

Hanlon and her husband have been caring for their hens since they were one-day-old chicks.

“We spent so much time with them, and they get really friendly,” she said. “I think they get sad if people don’t hang out with them!”

Coop 16: The SoCial neTwoRk

Paige Hill, Founder and Director of Urban Patchwork—a neighborhood-based, community-run urban agriculture net-work—had a maze-like coop, which circled around her large garden like a moat.

“We believe in a sustainable food supply system, and that in-cludes having your food grown at home,” Hill mentioned while sipping a Bloody Mary. “We want a balanced farm system with plants and animals…they kind of help take care of each other.”

The coolest part about it: the network. Through a collective of other coop owners, Hill enjoys support from and shares knowl-edge with fellow members.

“We’re teachers by nature,” she said. “We’re all always happy to teach people!”

Gary and Dani Moss (pictured bottom left) showcase their whimsical chicken coop, nestled in an enchanting garden on Westview Road.


Paige Hill, the founder of Ur-ban Patchwork Neighborhood Farms, proudly displays her white ameraucana chicken. The Cinnamon Queen at her feet has just laid an egg.


As line cooks and servers battle for glory, 86’d celebrates the unsung heroes of our culinary community.

Behind a restaurant’s kitchen doors, a secret language comes alive. You won’t find this vivid argot of “bubble dancers” and “hockey pucks” anywhere else, because it’s a kind of mythical shorthand heard only over the clamor of pots and pans, a testament to culinary camaraderie.

One morning in February, the word of the day at Uchi-ko was “86’d.” It’s synonymous with pulling a dish off the menu or throwing a rowdy customer out the door—but for the Uchi family, it was a fitting name for a citywide kitchen showdown. Inspired by The Food Network’s Chopped, 86’d featured four competitors from restaurants across the city in the first installment of a monthly series, over-seen by Chef Philip Speer. The rules were familiar: three rounds—appetizer, entrée and dessert—and three sets of unknown ingredients. The cook who fell short, of course, would be 86’d.

“You guys are what makes the restaurants run every day,” Speer told the competitors at the back of the house. He wasn’t referring to renowned chefs at the helm of lo-cal institutions, but rather to their quiet champions, to a promising cast of rising stars. Of the four competitors, three were line cooks—Josh Madden of Swift’s Attic, John

B y L i s A s i vA p h oto g r A p h y B y B i L L s A L L A n s

Hajash of Congress and Ryan Shields of Olive and June—while the fourth, Noah Mayes, was a server at Café Josie. Among Uchiko’s arsenal of stand mixers, circulators and fryers, they stood before four, mysterious paper bags and prepared for battle.

Once the timer began, the competitors discovered an un-likely menagerie of ingredients: guava, pepperoni, finger-ling potatoes and a bottle of chili paste, the latter a subtle nod to Uchiko’s cuisine. “I immediately thought meat and potatoes,” said Shields, bringing purple fingerlings to a boil on the stove. Meanwhile, a panel of judges, including Speer, John Bates of the Noble Sandwich Co., Diane Dixon of Keeper Collection and Jodi Holzband of Tasty Touring, circled the kitchen, peering over the prep table, as compet-itors chopped, peeled and diced.

To me, the back of the house has always seemed a little like magic, an unseen world of chefs pulling pork belly and scallops from top hats. Even on days like this one, when I am able to step behind the scenes, I can’t help but find it enchanting. It’s here that cooks let loose their endless imagination, here that they pour their hearts out onto the plate—and for the 86’d competitors, the only limit was time. With a technical panache reminiscent of mentor Chef David Bull, Hajash pickled kumquat and fried Brus-

The second round of 86’d competitors, from left to right: Vincent Guerra of Kome, Abby Yates of Swift’s Attic, Brandon Martin of Foreign & Do-mestic and Drew Shriver of Olive & June.


sels sprouts to pair with roasted potatoes. Across the table, Mayes took the challenge of both frying and roasting the fingerlings, but it was when Madden brought out the but-ter, milk and nitrous oxide charger that I knew we were in for a no-holds-barred food fight.

After 25 minutes, the timer rang, and all hands flew into the air. Below, four striking plates lined the prep ta-ble: Shields’ crushed potatoes, Mayes’ take on Spanish papas bravas and Hajash’s roasted potatoes with ponzu vinaigrette. Madden, on the other hand, had put the ni-trous oxide charger to use in a chili whipped cream atop a romaine salad of roasted potatoes, plated on the lid of a nabe bowl. Despite his clever presentation, the judges agreed that undercooked potatoes were his undoing, and Madden was the first to be 86’d. It was, however, less like Chopped’s long, disappointing walk, intercut with tearful monologues, and more like a friendly concession, a tip of the hat to his fellow cooks who had shone in the kitchen that morning.

Round Two found the three remaining competitors with a daunting bag of Rock Cornish game hen, smoked basmati rice, lotus root and habanero oil, as well as a full half hour to prepare the main course. “They have a whole bird and rice,” Speer noted drily. “They’re going to need those extra five minutes.” Hajash began whisking together a marinade of shallots, lime zest and habanero oil, while Shields tackled the rice, steaming it with lemongrass un-der a sheet of parchment paper.

“When you have only half an hour, you have to be quick, spontaneous,” Shields remarked, “and you try to think about different flavor profiles and how they’re all going to complement the dish.”

Soon, the kitchen was thick with the smells of smoky basmati and sharp habanero, but when Mayes spooned a jus of broth and Sapporo over fried Rock Cornish hen, the warm, nostalgic aroma was a foodie’s siren song. “You can tell it’s just part of him,” Speer observed. “He knows how to cook.” Though the other judges agreed, Hajash’s vibrant composition of marinated, pan-seared leg and breasts of hen with minted rice and tamarind glaze won highest marks for its bold, global flavors.

“It’s a mix,” Hajash said. “I was thinking Spanish because we had the rice and habanero, but with the tamarind glaze, I went a little Thai.” Shields, however, hung up his apron

Clockwise from top: the judges of the second 86’d competition—Natanya Anderson of Fete & Feast, Chef Philip Speer of Uchi, performer Mandy Lauderdale and Tom Thornton of the Austinist—dig in; calamari with pearl onions and gooseberry for the appetizer round; the mystery ingredients for dessert.

after overcooking the hen, leaving only Hajash and Mayes in the running.

For the final round, the two competitors entered Speer’s own territory: dessert. It promised to be a spectacular bat-tle to the finish, because while Hajash cooks with finesse and Mayes with soul, both are dedicated to their craft and fearless in the kitchen. They unpacked their last mystery bags, setting basil seed soda, watercress and ginger on the table. It was a perplexing assortment of ingredients, but when the coconut milk came out, I knew we were having ice cream. Plumes of smoke spilled over the prep table, as Mayes poured liquid nitrogen onto an herbaceous custard of watercress, coconut, mint and basil. “The last time I worked with liquid nitrogen was in high school chemistry,” he said with a wry smile.

Meanwhile, Hajash had spread a ginger ice cream base over a Silpat and carefully ladled liquid nitrogen on top. The ice cream froze into a thick sheet, which he then broke into shards, laid atop a decadent pool of Valrhona choco-late and garnished with an almond crumble. “I was sur-prised by the dessert round, honestly,” Speer said, who had envisioned a classic oeuf à la neige. “The ingredients we chose were not too familiar, but both dishes were complex and well thought out.” Ultimately, however, it was Hajash’s deconstructed take on the ice cream sundae that won the Congress line cook first place that morning. “You can’t deny he reflects the pedigree of the restaurant he comes from—you see it in his technical abilities,” Speer noted. After a thought-ful pause, he added, “and his food just tasted good.”

And that’s what 86’d comes down to: good food and great cooks. Unlike Chopped, there are no dramatic scores or voiceovers in the Uchiko kitchen—because 86’d isn’t about thrilling cuts and close-ups. Instead, it’s about a cook, his plate and the people he shares it with: “I hope 86’d cre-ates some camaraderie in the restaurant scene,” Speer said. “And hopefully, it’s got long legs, and we can do this for years to come.”

Abby Yates spoons a jus over her thoughtful plate of shrimp, tangerine, miso and tomatillo; a competitor prepares a cala-mari appetizer for the judges.


It all started on Twitter. Last July, Bill Corbett, the pastry chef at Absinthe in San Francisco, tweeted to his pastry chef friends that he wanted to come to Austin for—you guessed it—a music festival. Corbett’s favorite punk and metal bands were playing Fun Fun Fun Fest (No Means No, Fight Amp), and he had to be here.

So goes the story of Austin. Long a destination for musi-cians, the city has created a booming music industry that has allowed other industries to follow: its “hyperspeed growth,” as Uchi/Uchiko pastry chef Philip Speer calls it, has made it into a national food destination.

“Austin is one of those places that has a soul,” says Mi-chael Laiskonis, the former executive pastry chef of Le Bernardin.

Laiskonis, Corbett and other well-known national pas-try chefs like Christina Tosi from Momofuku Milk Bar had killed with dessert last year in New York for a fundrais-er benefiting Share Our Strength, and over Twitter, they quickly hatched a plan to come to Austin. Ned Elliott, the co-owner and chef at Foreign and Domestic who has a self-professed sweet tooth, immediately tweeted to Cor-bett, “Dude come down and do a guest spot one night!! You can crash on my couch!!”

On November 5, eight chefs gathered at Foreign and Do-mestic for the second Killed by Dessert fundraiser. Before dinner, the chefs shared savory appetizers like Tosi’s Cu-bano pork croissant and a corn panna cotta topped with a duck confit fritter from the Carillon’s Plinio Sandalio.

The dinner itself started out savory too, with a nice, light scotch egg: two fresh yolks wrapped in pulled pork, ba-con hash and caramelized onions in a panko-fried crust.

B y M e g A n g i L L e r p h oto g r A p h y B y j o dy h o r to n

Chef Christina of momofuku milk Bar (pictured) kicks off the evening of sweet treats with her savory pork croissants.


Though it was excellent, everyone’s plate remained pretty much untouched—we were here to eat some sweets.

So let’s talk dessert.The night was a whirlwind. It started with Speer’s adven-

turous olive gelato topped with delicate olive powder. He plated it with hazelnut crumbs, addictively crunchy can-died olive and a dab of chocolate ganache. “I pushed the envelope with mixing savory and sweet more than I would at the restaurants,” he said. The flavor combinations made his dish one of the highlights of the night.

Tosi also pushed the boundaries of dessert. “I like the funk of bleu cheese,” she told the crowd. She paired Hous-ton’s Hopelessly blue cheese with a salty pumpkin ganache and topped it with a simple pear sorbet. And no Tosi des-sert is complete without her famous cornflake crunch, which she made highbrow by plating it artfully alongside the ganache.

The crowd favorite sounded just as unusual but actu-ally tasted comfortingly familiar. Corbett’s dessert was called “Root Down,” after—of course—a Beastie Boys song. He described it as a “parsnip cake with milk jam, iced buttermilk, cacao nib, wood sorrel.” That translat-ed to a gingery spice cake on top of a caramel sauce, with buttermilk ice cream, crunchy cacao nibs and tiny wood sorrel leaves. Corbett got the buttermilk from his friends’ restaurant, Rich Table, which makes its own butters (“The homesteading movement is going to be the next big thing,” he told me). The sour ice cream act-ed like the cream cheese icing on a traditional carrot cake, and you almost expected to find raisins in the de-ceptively homestyle dessert.

That seemed to be the theme of the night. The first Killed by Dessert in New York was based on “some of our favorite things.” This time around, the pastry chefs got to explore desserts they’ve always wanted to make. Corbett had made a parsnip cake at WD50, but he always wanted to go further with the concept. Sim-ilarly, at Le Bernadin, Laiskonis had made the classic French dessert Mont Blanc for years but wanted to play it up. For his entrée, he created a pain de genes

(think almond sponge cake) with a light chestnut cream, subtly coconut sorbet and a pear sphere (“Eat the sphere in one bite,” coached Texas Monthly’s Pat Sharpe).

But Lincoln Carson, the corporate pastry chef at Mi-chael Mina’s restaurants, had the biggest confession of all. “I don’t want to admit this in public,” he said, “but I like tiramisu.” His dessert was the Italian classic, gussied up with a surprising texture. The crunchy-looking cakes were instead soft and giving, and the creamy rounds of white chocolate and mascarpone finished the night famously, as did the edible coffee paper.

But where was good old chocolate? “Pastry chefs turn up their noses at chocolate because it’s such a crowd pleaser,” said Callie Speer, pastry chef at Swift’s Attic and wife of Philip Speer. “They think it’s cheating.”

Yet several chefs declared that chocolate candy bars were some of their favorite desserts, especially growing up. Cor-bett, who is from Canada, loved Wonderbars and Smarties. Elliott still can’t eat enough PayDays.

The chocolate, it turned out, came at the end of the night in truffles and other mignardises. Together, the two fund-raisers (in NYC and Austin) garnered nearly $15,000. And because the chefs paid their own way and for their ingre-dients, almost all of that money went directly to Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign.

So what did the visiting chefs think of our fair city? Car-son liked that our food scene is “eclectic” and that everyone is doing something uniquely their own. “Rather than hav-ing worked for one or two big chefs and everyone having the same style, chefs here have congregated from all points and bring different ideas,” he said.

Corbett liked the city’s character. “There are a lot of small restaurants with tons of it,” he said, “like at the Wet Whis-tle, where I was flipping through records as I ate an Indian paratha.” Yep, that’s Austin.

“You guys have such a strong point of view,” Tosi told me, noting that La Condesa’s Laura Sawicki is one of her favor-ites in town. “And that’s what makes a really good dessert—point of view and tapping into people’s food memories. The flavors never lie.”

Clockwise from top left: macarons by Plinio Sandalio and Lincoln Carson, Bill Corbett’s “Root Down” parsnip cake, Philip Speer’s savory appetizer; Speer with sous chefs.


b y l i s a s i va | p h oto g r a p h y b y a n d r e w c h a n

Bradley Nicholson [pictured] and his peers at Barley Swine—to-gether with staffers at Hillside Farmacy, Justine’s Brasserie and Second Bar & Kitchen—share stories from the line.


at barley swine, b e f o r e t h e d o o r s o p e n ,

yo u ’ l l f i n d t h e k i t c h e n t e a m w o r k i n g

t o a p l ay l i s t a s d i v e r s e a s t h e s ta f f e r s

t h e m s e lv e s . t h e l i n e c o o k s , s o u s c h e f s a n d

s t e w a r d ta k e u s b e h i n d t h e s c e n e s o f o n e o f

t h e c i t y ’ s m o s t c e l e b r at e d g a s t r o p u b s .

bradley nicholson | Line Cook

While a folksy soundtrack of country classics like George Strait plays

in the background, line cook Bradley Nicholson is hard at work. “This

industry rewards talent,” he says, “but being all about cooking is what

is gonna get you ahead.” Though it’s always a race against the clock,

he loves being able to connect with diners through the open kitchen

and “see either their surprise and joy.” If you order beer for the staff, he

won’t say no to any of the Hops & Grain Greenhouse Beers—It’s For a

Cop is his favorite.

from left to right: sous chef mark buley, line cook parker smith, sous chefs sam hellman-mass and Jon west and line cook bradley nicholson.


Parker smith | Line Cook

Parker Smith (pictured left) grew up with his childhood comfort food

of peanut butter and waffles, but these days, you can find him work-

ing the line at Barley Swine, slinging pork trotter, scallops and more.

Smith’s music to cook by includes a bluesy lineup of Derek Trucks, Flats

and Scruggs and Johnny Watson. Above all, Barley Swine is an immer-

sive experience for both diner and cook, Smith says: the open kitchen

offers a “chance for people to see how the food comes together,” while

as a line cook, “you can never ask too many questions.”

sam hellman-mass | Sous Chef

Flour may be the most difficult ingredient to work with for Sous Chef

Sam Hellman-Mass (pictured right), but “getting all the good energy”

from diners seated at the bar is well worth the challenge. It’s “the ca-

maraderie of making great food as a team,” however, that drives Hell-

man-Mass as he works the line to the sounds of Austin music legend

Willie Nelson. When you’re in the kitchen, he says, you have to “give

it everything you have and learn something from everyone you meet.”


Housed in a charming, decades-old pharmacy, Hill-side Farmacy is as stylish as it is delicious. austra-lian-born Jade Place-matthews (pictured second from right), the restaurant’s co-owner, fondly remembers opening night, when the Turner family came in for dinner. “mrs. Turner’s father was the first african american pharmacist in austin, and this was his pharmacy,” she says. “It was amazing to hear mrs. Turner tell her great-grandchildren stories about her father’s life and her time working the soda fountain in the building.” Now, Place-matthews is making stories of her own, with signature dishes like baked oysters and a colorful staff to boot. “They are all individuals, and we love that about them,” she says.

from left to right: server gray hickox, host and runner marsha taylor, co-owner Jade place-matthews and server thorne russell


Gray hickox | Server

Once, a crabber bought Gray Hickox (pictured left) a beer and took him

fishing on St. Simons Island, off the coast of Georgia. From that moment,

Hickox knew he wanted to work around food, and today, you’ll find this

server at the front of the house at Hillside Farmacy, dressed in his dapper

style. He has that fateful fishing trip to thank—even though, he notes

wryly, the crab man still owes him 50 bucks.

thorne russell | Server

The son of Hillside Farmacy chef and co-owner Sonya Cote, Thorne

Russell (pictured right) has grown up surrounded by food—espe-

cially, he recalls, his favorite salty fish and Chinese barbecue. At the

front of the house, his style is both elegant and functional, inspired

in part by England in the 1960s, but the true pleasure of his job is in-

teracting with the customers. “I try my hardest to keep the restaurant

happy and running smoothly,” he says, “and sometimes, that leads to

happy people.”

marsha taylor | Host & Runner

After graduating from high school, host and runner Marsha Taylor

moved to Austin on a whim, but it’s the restaurants that have kept her

here. “I love seafood in general, so I’m glad to be working in a place

that serves it,” she says. Taylor is rarely without a pair of high-waisted

pants, but it isn’t just about being stylish, as her role demands con-

stant multitasking and overseeing the front of the house. “Here, we

look pretty cute,” she says, “but we bust our butts.”


hillside farmacy co-owner Jade place-matthews (pictured) describes her style as equal parts thrift and designer, with acne pistol boots and a good pair of sunglasses among her staples.


at niGht, a charming 1930s house on East Fifth Street trans-

forms into an inviting bistro: strands of lights twinkle in the back, a

Francoise Hardy record begins to crackle, and suddenly, you could

be in another era, on the banks of the Seine. This is Justine’s Bras-

serie, Austin’s destination for late-night French fare. “We love peo-

ple, and we love dinner parties,” say owners Justine Gilcrease and

Pierre Pelegrin. “We wanted to create a place like our living room

or dining room, our backyard and garden.” With a classic menu and

a quirky atmosphere, Justine’s has a certain je ne sais quoi, an air

of effortlessness that draws diners of all stripes. “It’s more than a

restaurant,” Gilcrease and Pelegrin remark. “It has soul—from the

history of its lost-in-space location on the East Side to the amazing

people who come to eat and drink and talk here.” Over ratatouille

and coq au vin, you might find Lemmy of Motorhead at the bar,

Kim Gordon putting on lipstick in the ladies’ room, or Robert Plant

flipping through records—but every night, Gilcrease and Pelegrin

note, is unforgettable. “Going through those long days and insane

nights with everyone who works there really creates a sense of fami-

ly,” they say. After a long evening, their most rewarding moment is “any

tattered, tired, beautiful 2am when we close up.”

from left to right: host and server marie ely, server diamond mueller, roman sailor pelegrin (the newborn son of Justine’s owners Justine gilcrease and pierre pelegrin) server veronica ortuño, host stephanie stephens, server hannah sweets, bartender olivier calmant, server kristen palmer, bartender neil pedigo, server aunna carleton and bartender gabi tuschack.

H aIr By DIa moN D m u eller & m a K eu P By Jacq u elIN e Fer N a N Dez


scott martin | Server

Second Bar + Kitchen is home to many un-

forgettable moments for server Scott Martin:

“Waiting on Timbaland—that was cool. I mean,

it’s Timbaland,” he recalls. “Or, you know, when

Tom Araya enters the room.” It’s the restaurant’s

menu of elegant classics, however, from braised

short rib to pork belly fried rice, that Martin ad-

mires the most. “The Brussels sprouts,” he adds.

“Don’t skip the sprouts.” Dressed in his go-to

Levi’s and Rockport boots, Martin shares his

love of Second’s cuisine with guests—because

the best part about being a server, he says, is

“getting to introduce people to things for the

first time.”

chris sowers | Server

Chris Sowers (pictured right) has lived around

the world, from Paris to Colorado—but today,

he calls Austin home. At Second Bar + Kitch-

en, you can’t miss this server or his signature

style, which he calls “a blend of clean cut, mod-

ern and lumberjack-ish,” often punctuated by

a crisp, white button-up and a great pair of

Chuck Taylors. He’s traded in Spam, his child-

hood staple, for a mouthwatering menu of Buf-

falo Fried Pickles and Grilled Flank Steak, as

well as Second’s clientele of celebrities, actors

and everyday Austinites. “I really enjoy commu-

nicating with people,” he says, “and the ability to

genuinely make someone’s day every day.”

at the heart of downtown austin, Second Bar + Kitchen is a focal point for cuisine and style. Though the front of house dress code is white shirts and jeans, servers Scott martin (pictured left) and chris Sowers (right) bring a personal panache with a few, distinctive touches, like rockport boots and a memorable mustache.


By t o l l y m o s e l e y | Photography by l e a n n m u e l l e r

T h r e e s T a r p a s T r y c h e f s a n d t h e s w e e t e r

s i d e o f a u s t i n ’ s c u l i n a r y b o o m


c a l l i e s p e e rSwift’s Attic

after slinging sweets in some of austin’s most noted restau-rants, callie Speer (pictured) crafts imaginative, yet nostal-gic desserts at Swift’s attic.


k y l e M c K i n n e yBarley Swine

K yle McKinney is chopping basil when I walk in. A normally spiky mohawk is ungelled,

and when he sees me, he follows my gaze to his knife.

“Yeah, this is for the lemon tart I’m working on,” he says.

“We serve it with quinoa granola. It’s pretty sick.”

His boss, Chef Bryce Gilmore of Barley Swine, is check-

ing items off a clip-boarded sheet, while cooks mill about

a modest kitchen, assembling raw ingredients that will be-

come tonight’s heartily-consumed, heartily-Instagrammed

dinners. This is the 29th kitchen McKinney has worked in.

“I really haven’t done anything else,” he confesses when I ask

him. “I started washing dishes when I was 16 in San Antonio.”

It’s my favorite narrative from the food world: the kid who

starts at the very bottom and determinedly works his way

up. I’ve always associated those plucky young guns with the

savory—the sushi protégés, the French traditionalists, the

molecular gastronomists. But what about the sweet?

The pastry chef living in my mind is not a young gun; she

is a little old lady. Her meringues come from a time-honored

recipe, her peach cobbler just as good as it was in the Reagan

administration. In short, she is a strict formulist, my imag-

inary pastry chef.

But these days, the desserts coming out of Austin’s restau-

rant kitchens are anything but formulaic. Experimental?

Nostalgic? Bizarre? Yes, these are all adjectives I’d use for my

favorite local sweets. So I tracked down three of their chief

inventors—a James Beard Award Semifinalist and two Food

& Wine Magazine nominees—to find out how they’re keep-

ing Austin sweetly weird.


says Callie Speer when I ask her how she got into cooking.

Like McKinney, she was 16.

“So I worked at this place in Davenport Village—Vin-

cent’s Italian Kitchen—just doing anything they wanted

me to do in the kitchen. I fell in love with it and basically

never stopped.”

Speer’s journey to Swift’s Attic pastry chef—as well as

her recent nomination for Food & Wine Magazine People’s

Best New Pastry Chef—included stops at Magnolia Café,

the late Café Caprice, Cippolina and Jeffrey’s, until Speer

landed her first official pastry chef position at Mars.

“There was this lady at Cippolina who did our pastry

case, and when she was fired, I piped up,” she says. “I was

like, ‘Hey! Guys! I can do this,’ and they let me take a stab

at it. I never went to school for pastry, just kept on working

at kitchens around town, and when Mars moved to their

big location at South Congress, I met my husband, Philip.”

“Philip” is Philip Speer, the pastry chef at Uchi, responsi-

ble for all those storied peanut butter semifreddos. He and

Callie would soon marry and have a baby together, while

she worked pastry at parkside.

“I worked there literally up until the day before I gave

birth,” Speer laughs. “I called Shawn [Cirkiel] and was

like, ‘Hey, dude—I’m going to be out for a while.’”

As Speer cared for her and Philip’s new baby, Lucy, the

two started a pastry catering company—Cakemix Austin—

and Speer baked from home.

“Then, I went to a company party for Uchi and ran into

Mat [Clouser],” she says. “He told me he was opening up

this new restaurant and that I should think about becom-

ing its pastry chef.”

“baSically, my dad told me i had to get a job,”

kyle mckinney (pictured left) started as a dishwash-er at age 15 and has been working in kitchens ever since. today, you’ll find him at barley Swine, whipping up innovative sweets.

A year later, she was. Clouser’s restaurant was Swift’s At-

tic, a hyper-local restaurant whose dishes are a little Top

Chef, a little punk rock: think small plates of American

tapas, every bite a song. Speer likes desserts that feel fa-

miliar—nostalgic tastes, but just a bit elevated.

“I like people to be able to recognize what they’re eat-

ing,” she says, handing me her famous Popcorn & a Movie

dish. It’s a homemade Kit Kat bar with candied popcorn,

drops of root beer gel, buttered popcorn gelato and sparkly

hunks of salt.

“Yeah, I’m never getting away from that one,” she says

with a smile. A fortunate predicament for the rest of us.

“ i lied to get my firSt cooK-ing job,” McKinney says. He’s let-

ting me taste his blueberry rooibos sorbet, which will join

the aforementioned sick lemon tart.

“Before that, I was washing dishes at this other kitchen—

and playing with fire on the line just looked a lot more fun.”

It worked. McKinney got the job and continued to work a

string of chain restaurants through his teens, until he and

his friend cooked up a plan to take themselves to culinary

school. That was Scottsdale Culinary Institute—and when

he returned to Austin in his mid-20s, he landed a job at the

Hilton and eventually, the Four Seasons under pastry chef

Naomi Gallego.

“She was from San Antonio too, so we got along real quick,”

says McKinney. “She was the first person who mentored me

on pastry and was just amazing. I was like the lowest guy on

the totem pole there, but we grew up five miles from each

other so, you know. We were each other’s people.”

Gallego asked McKinney to partner with her for a U.S.

Pastry Competition and a Food Network Challenge for

chocolate. The two recreated Degas’ “Little Dancer” stat-


ue in chocolate, complete with tiny gears that turned her

in a circle. As his culinary portfolio grew, McKinney found

himself gravitating toward cold prep, leading to jobs with a

slew of sushi restaurants around town—until he answered a

fateful Craigslist ad.

“That was how I got the job at Barley Swine!” McKinney

cries when I say I don’t believe him. “Seriously. I came in and

the guys were like, ‘Oh, okay. This kid knows what he’s doing’

and hired me,” he says.

“It’s an awesome environment—it’s a place where we’re all

encouraged to take risks and be really creative.”

Creative is right. McKinney shows me pictures of his latest

invention, his version of “breakfast cereal:” marshmallow,

homemade rice crispies tossed with vanilla sugar, barley ice

cream, strawberry “gushers,” crispy chocolate merengue

and chocolate crumbles.

“Yeah,” McKinney says, “I’m really just a 12-year-old kid, obviously.”

It makes me wonder if that 16-year-old dishwasher had any

idea all those years ago where he’d end up today.

at t h e a g e m o S t t e e n a g e g i r l S a r e g o -i n g t h r o u g h d r i v e r ’ s e d ,Janina O’Leary was researching culinary schools from her

bedroom in Del Rio.

“I knew from a very young age what I wanted to do,” says

O’Leary. Which is why she applied—and got accepted—to

the French Culinary Institute in New York at 15.

“Julia Child came in one day as a guest chef, and I asked

her for professional advice,” says O’Leary. “I told her that my

inspired by julia child, janina o’leary (pictured right) took a leap of faith and landed in some of new york’s most prestigious kitch-ens before heading south to trace at W austin.

big dream was to work at Thomas Keller’s Per Se, but I was

afraid to apply so young and inexperienced. She said, ‘Well,

why don’t you? The worst they could say is no.’”

So after a couple of fine dining stints in Manhattan,

O’Leary—now 17—walked right into Per Se’s back door.

“Richard [Capizzi] was there,” says O’Leary, “and I asked

him if I could have a job! It was almost like fate, because

their two pastry chefs had just left to work at Bouchon Bak-

ery—so I put down my things and got to work.”

Whether it was an audition, lucky timing or a combina-

tion of the two, O’Leary worked that day for eight hours

straight. When she came back the next morning, she was

hired.

“I was there for three years, and it was an amazing experience,”

says O’Leary, a James Beard Award Semi-Finalist for Rising

Star Chef of the Year. “I got to learn all about pastry and worked

at Bouchon, too, making chocolates. I used to work the dinner

shift at Per Se, and then come back at three in the morning to

start making my chocolates.”

Two more high-end restaurant posts later, O’Leary and

her husband decided it was time to move to a place a bit

more child-friendly. With a baby on the way, they headed

south to Austin, just as TRACE was opening its doors—

and the restaurant snatched her up right away. Today,

O’Leary’s knockout desserts are one of TRACE’s main

calling cards.

“You’re like the Doogie Howser of pastry chefs,” I remark,

dipping her Drunken Doughnuts into luscious vodka

whipping cream and tequila chili fudge sauce. She laughs,

holding out even more pretty confections: tiny Red Vel-

vet Whoopie Pies with basil ice cream, a Lemon Budino

sprinkled with mini merengue kisses.

“I’ve been really fortunate,” she says. “My aunt and my mom

always wanted to open a bakery in Del Rio and were really

the first ones to inspire me. I’m still amazed I get to do this

for a living.”


j a n i n a o ’ l e a r yTRACE

p h oto b y m at t r a i n wat e r s

1. Fresh chiogga beets from Farmhouse Delivery. 2. A mix of antique New Mexican crosses, altar candles, trophy deer from Perch in New Orleans with canvas floor cushions from Spartan. 3. Eliza-beth's collection of cookbooks has grown so much that she took the doors off the cabinets for easy access. 4. Breakfast pastries from Flour Bakery. 5. Lazy Sunday morning breakfasts are a family favorite. 6. Found coyote skulls, a Mexican Saint Michael statue, a vintage oil painting and a watercolor of Elizabeth's mother from the early 70s. 7. Elizabeth's home office with a Victorian fabric sculpture. 8. Salt—a Winslow family kitchen essential. 9. New cookbook finds from a recent trip to Portland, Maine.

1.

2.

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4.

5.

6.

7.

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9.


Elizabeth WinslowFounder, Haymakers

community p r o f i l e i n s t y l e

from the moment she could pull a chair up to the kitchen counter,

Elizabeth Winslow has lived the life of a true gourmet—but whether

she was heading up her own restaurant or foraging for artisan foods,

Winslow has always been drawn to the idea of bringing people to-

gether around the table. “I realized early on how much food made

people happy and how much they enjoyed sharing the experience,”

she says. “I wanted to make that happen.” A native of Beaumont,

Winslow evacuated to Austin during Hurricane Rita and fell in love

with the culinary community she found here: “I went to Boggy Creek

Farm,” she laughs, “and that was it.” Since then, she has become a

champion of the city’s local food scene as an Edible Austin contribu-

tor, Sustainable Food Center volunteer and co-founder of Farmhouse

Delivery. Her latest endeavor, Haymakers, aims to connect the inspir-

ing food makers, growers and consumers she’s discovered along the

way. “I love talking to people about what they’re doing and what they’re

creating and how they’re solving this puzzle of creating a more robust,

sustainable food system for everyone,” she notes. Haymakers is an on-

line community open to anyone interested in joining the worldwide

sustainable food revolution. An array of Q and A sessions, round table

discussions and workshops offer food entrepreneurs insight into grow-

ing their businesses and making sustainable food practices a reality.

“My goal is for all of us together to be creating a big conversation about

how we can change the world through delicious food,” Winslow says.

“That sounds pretty grand, but I think there’s so much passion and

commitment here that we can inspire one another to move forward

collectively and bring change to the way the entire country eats and

enjoys food.” For more information about Elizabeth Winslow and

Haymakers, visit haymakersonline.com.

tribeza.com may 2013 117Photog r a Phy by e va n Prince

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I t’s hard to imagine Olympic gold medalist Garrett Weber-Gale as a clueless cook—but before his diagno-sis of high blood pressure eight years ago, the swimmer admits he “had no idea how to cook anything.” He

soon realized, however, that his condition could mean the end of his swimming career if left unchecked. As he began to work toward a new, healthier lifestyle, Weber-Gale found that he could lower his blood pressure just by eating right and, in time, discovered a deep love for cooking. After traveling across the world, apprenticing with famous chefs in kitchens such as Noma, Celler Can Roca, La Maison Troisgros and Daniel, Weber-Gale launched AthleticFoodie, a site that shares recipes and healthy tips for living well, from exercising to packing food for travel. At the heart of AthleticFoodie, however, is Weber-Gale’s new podcast, For the Love of Food. Airing weekly on Mondays, the podcast features two recipes per month inspired by a diverse cast of famous chefs, nutritionists, food entrepre-neurs, professional athletes, including a Super Bowl champion, and other Olympians, who share the challenges and triumphs of attaining a higher quality of life through food. And as if this food enthusiast doesn't have enough on his plate, Weber-Gale is also in the process of writing a book that includes stories and recipes from his adventures around the world, while he trains for the upcoming Maccabiah Games in Israel and travels the country as a public speaker. His passion is evident in each of his endeavors, inspiring all of us to live a fuller and healthier life: "My main message is that dreams really can and do come true,” Weber-Gale says. “It is really hard sometimes, but the fact is we can all accomplish something great." a. horsley

AthleticFoodieThrOugh PErSONAL ExPEriENcES AND WOrLD TrAVEL, OLyMPiAN AND FOOD ENThuSiAST garrett weber-gale ShArES hEALThy TiPS FOr A BETTEr LiFE.

olympic gold-med-alist swimmer garrett Weber-gale shares his passion for cooking through his website athleticfoodie and his new podcast For the Love of Food.

for more information about athleticfoodie and For the Love of Food, visit athleticfoodie.com,

athleticfoodie is based on the idea that food can be delicious, healthy and easy to prepare.

For the Love of Food airs every monday and shares personal stories of challenges and triumphs from a wide range of guests.

120 may 2013 tribeza.com Photog r a Phy by k ate lesu eu r

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Come mix, mingle and chill at our event to officially announce “The Social”. We will have live music, specialty Ruby Red Vodka cocktails by Deep Eddy Vodka, Sailor

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finest, this will be the event to remember. For more details about VIP info please call 512.442.2316

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Date: Thursday, May 16th, 2013 | Time: 6-9 pm Location: 1817 E. Oltorf st.

Live Music | Fashion Show at 7:30 pm | Benefits Austin Humane Society

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Barkeep Style behind the bar—fashion insights

from cocktail concocters at our favorite watering holes.

style s t r e e t f a s h i o n

dennis Gobis, bartender at Drink.

Well. he finds great boots at Dime city

cycles and loves an old fashioned

“made the right way.”

catherine Weis-neWski, bartender at Weather up. she likes to order a manhattan and stocks her closet with vintage finds from charm school vintage and feathers.

aaron p. kimmel, bar-tender at Drink.Well. his style staples are a pair of black levi’s, rockport boots and a comfortable button-up.

nick conover, bartender at Drink.Well. a long-time bmX-er, he frequents shops like urban outfitters and vans.

carolyn Gil, bartender at Weather up. she is wearing a frock from a vintage shop in nyc called Pony.

brian floyd, bartender at Drink.Well. his style mantra? “When i moved back from nyc two months ago, i swore i’d never wear sleeves again un-less i was working.”

alexis piotroWski, bartender at the Jackalope. she is wearing fishnets and a skirt and top from forever 21 paired with chanel boots.

bill beltone, bartender at the Jack-alope. his drink is the Johnny Walker black, and he’s been bartend-ing for 15 years.

124 may 2013 tribeza.comPhotog r a Phy by J essic a Pag es

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style p i c k

t his year, Austin welcomed a cozy new gem to East Riverside Drive: founded by co-owners Jason Sabala and Travis Kizer, together with marketing and branding man Ross Bennett,

The Buzz Mill is a rustic haven where the craft brew and locally-roasted coffee are endless. From the inviting smell of fresh-cut wood to the stacked-log bar, this 24-hour destination is part charming log cabin and entirely Austin. Whether you're on your laptop or off the clock, a student resident or happy hour seeker, the woodsy getaway is the perfect place to sip and stay a while. "We want people to be able to bike here and walk here from where they live," Bennett says. "We're going to keep trying to grow and be more friendly with everyone in our neighborhood and, at the same time, promote a general awareness to every-one in Austin." The idea to launch The Buzz Mill came with the opening of the new Emo's location on East Riverside a few years ago. While working for the storied music venue, Sabala noticed there was something missing in the area: coffee. Since the

nearest Starbucks was a headache in traffic away, folks working for Emo's were in desperate need of a decent caffeine fix, not to mention a place to relax before and after shows. After Kizer, the resident coffee-roaster, came on board, he and Sabala seized the opportunity to make their mark in East Austin. "Once we got here, we realized there was nothing, no other bar, no coffee, no anything," Bennett remembers. "I think that was the initial 'we should probably make something over here.'" But there's more to The Buzz Mill than just cold-brewed coffee and Hamm's Beer. With a $5 Sunday brunch—complete with bot-tomless flapjacks and a build-your-own Bloody Mary bar—daily happy hours and a packed roster of free shows, the place is brimming with activity. Behind the bar and coffee shop, you'll even find the Blue Ox BBQ food truck, catering to those late-night diners and weekend

brunchers alike. "We want everyone to feel comfortable," Bennett says. "It always comes back to that sense of com-munity." With its nonstop libations, lively crowd and a touch of Austin quirk, The Buzz Mill is quickly becom-ing a beloved part of the East Side Landscape. m. riley

Jason sabala and travis kizer are the co-owners of the buzz mill. sabala manages the business side of the operation and kizer—a coffee roaster by trade—takes care of all things caffeinated.

The Buzz MillWiTh A rEVOLViNg BEEr SELEcTiON AND gOurMET cOFFEE AT ANy hOur, ThE Buzz MiLL FuELS EAST AuSTiNiTES iN A WArM, ruSTic SPAcE.

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empowering kids to create tastes and flavors they're going to love." Soon, Austin will be home to Recipe for Suc-cess as well—and while young Austinites begin to discover the culinary world around them, A Food Adventure invites adults to do the same. As a founder of Farmhouse Delivery, which connects neighbors with their local farmers and food artisans, Scherzer looks forward to hosting this colorful dinner under the stars with Rain Lily Farm co-owner Kim Beal: "Recipe for Success is teaching kids to grow things and eat well," Scherzer says, "and that's what we're about at Farmhouse Delivery, bring-ing the freshest foods to the table and teaching people about them." A Food Adventure takes its name from Cavnar's cookbook for children, Eat It! Food Adventures with Marco Polo, which follows the Venetian explorer on his travels through the Middle East, Caucasus Mountains and China. Inspired by Polo's intrepid spirit, the evening will take dinners on their own tasting tour of the world: "I hope our guests enjoy a wonderful food experience and an appreciation for what goes into our food in a celebratory, everyday way," Cavnar remarks. "It's the real-world incarnation of what we teach our kids." For more information about Recipe for Success, visit recipe4success.org. A Food Adventure tickets may be purchased at farmhousedelivery.com. l. siva

U under the night sky, where spring gardens meet Rain Lily Farm, the cu-linary community will come together

for A Food Adventure, a celebration of the jour-ney from field and pasture to the table. Stepha-nie Scherzer of Farmhouse Delivery worked with Chefs Rene Ortiz and Laura Sawicki to create a sumptuous experience, complete with live music and an elegant dinner—though the centerpiece of the evening is the Recipe for Success Foundation, an innovative education program for children that aims to inspire a lifetime of healthy eating. Eight years ago, Gracie Cavnar founded Recipe for Success in response to increas-ing childhood obesity rates. At the time, the National Conference of State Legislatures had found a startling nine million children were overweight and consequently at risk for chronic conditions, including Type 2 diabetes and heart disease. "It boils down to the food

we eat and the way we eat it," Cavnar says. "We had a culture of all-day grazing and eating on the run." Her solution was simple enough in concept, yet monumental in impact: teach children the pleasures of mindful eating. "As a mother of three children and a grandmother of two, I knew it was possible to get kids to eat healthy food and like it," Cavnar observes, "so I thought, 'we're going to go into schools and put kids in touch with their food again.'" While Jamie Oliver was leading his Food Revolution across the Atlantic, Cavnar first launched Recipe for Success in six Houston elementary schools with her Seed to Plate Nutrition Education™ model. The program weaves together gardening and cooking, as well as lessons from math, vocabulary, and other disciplines, into a sustainable, dynamic curriculum used around the country today. "It's not rocket science," Cavnar says. "When people worried that kids wouldn't respond to this, I told them, 'Let me show you what we can do.'" And Recipe for Success did the unthinkable—it encouraged children to be passionate about the food on their plates and where it came from. Cavnar recalls, for example, a shy fourth grader who announced to a school board member that his favorite vegetable was Brussels sprouts. "Kids love the magic of food," she laughs. "They enjoy watching a seed become a carrot and then pulling it out of the ground, making carrot soup and sitting around the table to eat it together. We're

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Recipe forSuccessa Food adventuresunday, may 5, 6pmrain lily Farm914 shady ln.

from left to right: recipe for success garden instructor sharon siehl works with kindergartners at macgregor elementary school; recipe for success chef carolyn carcassi rolls dough with a rodriguez elementary student; recipe for success begins in school gardens, where teach-ers and students start the journey from “seed to Plate.”


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A Taste of Austin

s P e c i a l a D v e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n

Chef Jason Tallent has crafted a new menu, serving

up delicious farm-to-table cuisine in this eclectic

local café. The chicken picatta, Chinese hack salad

and homemade coconut cake are all house favor-

ites, and the café offers a boutique, hand-picked

wine selection. With 18 years in Austin, locals love

the fresh dishes and trendy atmosphere. Plenty of

parking in the back!

34th Street Café

1005 West 34th St. 512.371.3400 | 34thstreetcafe.com

Featuring uptown comfort-cuisine set inside a hip, modern interior, Blue Star offers a casual yet stylish dining atmosphere and was a first in the Lo-Burn area. Chef Kenny Kopecky serves up the best menu with homemade pies and cakes, or experience our chicken-fried quail. Don’t miss the wine specials during late night happy hour...and the burgers are to die for...our Garden Burger was voted by Austin Monthly fans as “Burger the Beatles would Write a Song About!”

Blue Star Cafeteria

4800 Burnet Rd. C-300512.454.7827 | bluestarcafeteria.com

Swing by our cozy neighborhood eatery and wine

bar for happy hour with your friends, dinner with

family, or a celebration on the patio. We offer a

fabulous selection of 40 wines under 40 dollars,

along with delectable appetizers and daily spe-

cials. Indulge in authentic Italian dishes such as

pappardelle Bolognese, or linguine and mussels,

all from Chef Cody Krause. Gusto invites all to

drink, taste and enjoy!

Gusto

4800 Burnet Rd. 512.458.1100 | gustoitaliankitchen.com

Doña Margarita B. is considered to be the Mother

of (All) Tex-Mex. She created special recipes for

dishes that she dedicated to her secret loves – our

menu is the legacy of the passions of Santa Rita.

Try some of our award-winning salsa, or enjoy a

tasty margarita on the patio! Two convenient Aus-

tin locations, and fantastic happy hour specials.

Santa Rita Cantina

sanntaritacantina.comCentral: 1206 West 38th St. | 512.419.7482South: 5900 W. Slaughter Ln. | 512.288.5100

Maria’s Taco Xpress is a must-visit eclectic and

eccentric eatery. Deemed “South Austin’s Taco

Queen,” owner Maria Corbalan has been satisfying

taco lovers all over Austin for the past 15 years.

Come visit on Sunday to experience the original

Austin Hippie Church. Treat your ears to live gospel

grooves, fill your stomach with Rachael Ray’s favor-

ite Miga Taco and fuel your creativity by building

your own bloody mary.

Maria’s Taco Xpress

2529 S Lamar Blvd Austin, Texas 78704512.444.0261 | www.tacoxpress.com

visit tribeza.com to vieW our entire

Dining Guide


Becca Schafer Events produces on-site, custom-

ized fine dining experiences through catering

and private chef services for your wedding, event

or intimate gathering. So much more than food

- your complete vision is brought to life through

our comprehensive design, planning, and man-

agement services. Becca Schafer Events will hap-

pily accommodate you in Austin, Horseshoe Bay,

the Hill Country, or on destination adventures.

Becca Schafer Events

www.BeccaSchaferEvents.com254.981.4447 | [email protected]

s P e c i a l a D v e r t i s i n g s e c t i o n

Second Bar + Kitchen, Bar Congress and Congress

are located in downtown Austin on the ground floor

of the Austonian. Executive Chef David Bull creates

casual dishes at Second Bar + Kitchen like buffalo

fried pickles and short rib sliders, and offers three-

and seven-course prix-fixe menus at Congress.

Bon Appétit named all three as “Top Ten Best New

Restaurants.”

Second Bar + Kitchen,Bar Congress & Congress

200 Congress Avenue, Austin, Texas 78701512.827.2750 | www.congressaustin.com

Specializing in Slow Smoked Meats and Texas

Craft Beer. Austin’s original Stiles Switch BBQ

& Brew located in the historic 1950s Violet

Crown Shopping Center at 6610 N. Lamar Blvd.

Central Texas BBQ sliced to order daily at 11am.

Join us for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

Stiles Switch BBQ & Brew

6610 N. Lamar Blvd. Austin, Texas 78757512.380.9199 | www.stilesswitchbbq.com

Swift’s Attic’s cuisine is influenced by a passion for farm

to table offerings billed as “Modern American Small

Plates” with a focus on the creative, whimsical and

delicious. The bar features a meticulously selected craft

beer selection as well as eclectic wine list, and creative

cocktails. Swift’s Attic is open for Dinner, Lunch and

Sunday Brunch! Exec Chef Mat Clouser and Pastry Chef

Callie Speer have both recently been nominated for

Food and Wine: People’s Best New Chef (Southwest) and

People’s Best New Pastry Chef (Central) respectively in

recognition of their skilled stylings at Swifts Attic.

Swift’s Attic

315 Congress Ave Austin, Texas 78701512.482-8842 | www.swiftsattic.com

Finn & Porter is an upscale dining destination

serving modern American cuisine focused on fresh

and local ingredients. The restaurant has been rec-

ognized for its award-winning steaks and wine list,

in addition to serving creative seafood and sushi.

Finn & Porter’s Loft Bar serves innovative cocktails

and select wines, plus delicious twists to its classic

bar food menu.

Finn & Porter

500 East 4th Street, Austin, Texas 78701512.493.4900 | www.finnandporter.com

Trento is a fresh + casual + Italian restaurant,

featuring chef inspired cuisine; house made

pastas, seafood and steaks, wood fired pizza,

daily lunch and dinner specials, and a fabulous

Sunday brunch. 70% gluten free menu, kids

menu, extensive wine list, Happy Hour with

specialty cocktails. Private Dining Room avail-

able for business meetings, birthday, wedding,

graduation, pizza parties or any other occasion.

Bon Appetito!

Trento

3600 N. Capital of Texas Hwy. Austin, Texas512.328.7555 | www.trento360.com


African

aster’s ethiopian2804 n. i-35(512) 469 5966A family-owned business serving up authentic Ethi-opian cuisine since 1991.

caZamance1101 e. cesar chavez st.(512) 844 4414Chef Iba Thiam whips up aromatic West African cuisine with a global perspective.

karibU ethiopian restaUrant & bar1209 e. 7th st.(512) 320 5454Taking its name from the Swahili word for “welcome,” Karibu offers popular Ethiopian cuisine.

American

219 West 612 W. 6th st. (512) 474 2194American tapas, mini burgers and cocktails—one of the most beloved happy hours in the city.

34th street cafÉ1005 W. 34th st.(512) 371 3400Cuisine carefully prepared with fresh ingredients and a warm, homegrown Austin feel.

bacon 900 W. 10th st.(512) 322 9777Bacon is more than a breakfast side dish here: it’s the star of the show. Locally sourced and smoked in Austin, the ba-con comes in a variety of seasonal flavors, including Thai spice and pumpkin.

black star co-op 7020 easy Wind Dr. (512) 452 2337Beer and Texas pub fare in a co-operative community environment.

cenote1010 e. cesar chavez st.(512) 524 1311This converted home is a beautiful place for lunch or catching up over coffee.

cheZ Zee cafÉ and bakery5406 balcones Dr.(512) 454 2666Colorful decor and a huge menu with nice salads and lunchtime pizzas. Delicious house made desserts too.

dock and roll diner1503 s. 1st st.(512) 657 8415The decadent lobster rolls or aromatic Blue Banhette are a must!

eastside cafÉ2113 manor rd.(512) 476 5858

Delicious and healthy fare from the organic garden out back since 1988.

flat top bUrGer shop1900 manor rd.(512) 366 5154Craving a classic burger? Look no further than Flat Top.

frank407 colorado st.(512) 494 6916Irresistible hot dogs made from artisan sausages like the Jackalope with local antelope, rabbit, and pork.

Galaxy cafÉ9911 brodie ln., ste. 750(512) 233 60001000 West lynn st.(512) 478 34344616 triangle ave.(512) 323 9494A contemporary café serving all-day lunch, an exquisite dinner selection and gluten-free menu.

GoUrdoUGh’spUblic hoUse2700 s. lamar blvd.(512) 912 9070Austin’s favorite donut trailer gets a brick and mortar, featuring the eatery’s signature giant donuts and cocktails.

hopdoddybUrGer bar1400 s. congress ave.(512) 243 7505

2438 W. anderson ln.(512) 467 2337The perfect union of burgers and beer: enjoy fresh ingredients like Black Angus beef and hand-cut fries. House made buns are delicious.

hUdson’s on the bend3509 rr 620 n.(512) 266 1369Best menu of wild game in town—delicious quail salad, rattlesnake cakes and grilled venison chops with lobster tail.

hyde park barand Grill4206 Duval st.(512) 458 31684521 West gate blvd.(512) 899 2700A neighborhood scene with fine food and a cool, central bar.

J. black’s feel Good loUnGe710 W. 6th st.(512) 433 6954Pub fare at its best. Try the Texas Kobe beef sliders and signature thin-crust pizzas.

Jack allen’s kitchen7720 hwy. 71 W.(512) 852 8558Country favorites with a twist from Chef Jack Gilmore.

leaf419 W. 2nd st.(512) 474 leafCountless variations on wonderfully fresh, made-to-order salads with homemade dressings.

lUcy’s fried chicken2218 college ave.(512) 297 2423Classic fried chicken from Chef James Holmes and an extensive raw bar.

moonshine303 red river st.(512) 236 9599Happy hour specials and fun appetizers, like corn dog shrimp, served on a stick with blueberry honey mustard.

paGGi hoUse200 lee barton Dr.(512) 473 3700Eclectic fine dining in an inviting setting of one of Austin’s famous landmark homes.

roarinG fork701 congress ave.(512) 583 000010850 stonelake blvd.(512) 342 2700This western bistro and “saloon” brings in the crowds for one of the best happy hour deals in town. And many stay on for a delicious dinner.

star seeds cafÉ3101 n. i-35(512) 478 7107This cosmic favorite serves tasty breakfast and lunch items and is open late night for Austin’s night owls.

three little piGs1209 rosewood ave.(512) 653 5088Your source for all things pork-centric, from sliders to pulled pork sandwiches.

Urban an american Grill11301 Domain Dr.(512) 490 1511Urban offers classic comfort food in a modern, sophisticated atmosphere tucked inside the Westin Hotel.

the Woodland1716 s. congress ave.(512) 441 6800Modern comfort food, made fresh daily in a cozy space. Bottles of wine are half price on Sunday.

Asian

asia cafÉ8650 spicewood springs rd. ste. 115(512) 331 5788Authentic Chinese cuisine in a comfortable atmosphere.

rESTAurANTguiDE

Dinner & Drinks

Experience TRACE, showcasing the finest locally

sourced and foraged flavors from the region’s

surrounding farms. Sleek and sophisticated, Trace is

committed to creating an enriching culinary experience

by fusing the local personality of Austin with a

commitment to socially responsible food.

Featuring Chef de Cuisine Lawrence Kocurek & Executive Pastry Chef Janina O’Leary

LOCAL FLAVOR

LOCATED IN THE W AUSTIN200 LAvACA STrEET AUSTIN, TX 78701 | 512.542.3660 | TrACEAUSTIN.COm


bar chi sUshi206 colorado st.(512) 382 5557An upscale, fanciful sushi bar with a killer seven-day happy hour menu.

chinatoWn 3407 greystone Dr.(512) 343 9307107 W. 5th st.(512) 637 8888Some of the best traditional Chinese food in town. Fast service in the dining room and delivery is available.

the clay pit1601 guadalupe st.(512) 322 5131Zip in for a buffet-style lunch or settle in for a long dinner of contemporary Indian cuisine.

cUrryosity2209 e. cesar chavez st.(512) 574 3691An exploration of aromatic curries across the Asian continent, from India to Thailand.

draGon Gate by phoenix3801 n. capital of tx hwy.(512) 732 7278Extensive menu filled with both Japanese offerings and Chinese favorites.

east side kinG1700 e. 6th st.

(512) 422 5884Chefs Paul Qui, Moto Utsonomaya and Ek Timrek offer out-of-this-world pan-Asian food from three trailers.

G’raJ mahal91 red river st.(512) 480 2255With an extensive yet cozy covered patio, G’Raj Mahal offers a surprising amount of ambiance for a food trailer.

imperia310 colorado st.(512) 472 6770A Warehouse District highlight. Delectable Pe-king Duck and memorable specialty cocktails.

kenichi419 colorado st.(512) 320 8883Popular downtown spot for some of the best sushi in town.

kome4917 airport blvd.(512) 712 5700More than just sushi, this eatery serves up Japanese comfort food, including delicious, homemade ramen.

korea hoUse res-taUrant & sUshi bar2700 W. anderson ln., ste. 501(512) 458 2477Grab a four-top and cook your own bulgogi in the middle of the table.

koriente621 e. 7th st.(512) 275 0852Healthy, tasty Korean options like bulgogi and curry dishes all served up by the friendly staff.

lUcky robot1303 s. congress ave.(512) 444 8081A futuristic dining experience on Congress, inspired by the vibrant culture and cuisine of Tokyo.

marU4636 burnet rd. (512) 458 6200Fresh and classic sushi, sashimi and bento boxes.

mikado9033 research blvd.(512) 833 8188Enjoy robata (Japanese tapas) grilled before you, and lovely entrees of sea bass and duckling all day long.

michi ramen6519 n. lamar blvd.(512) 386 1908Fueling the ramen craze on North Lamar, Michi Ramen serves an authentic menu of ramen bowls, from the Veggie to the Meat Lover’s.

miZU prime steak& sUshi 3001 rr. 620 s.(512) 263 2801 A blend of both

http://goo.gl/S3GIu


traditional and contemporary takes on Japanese cuisine.

mUsashino3407 greystone Dr.(512) 795 8593The locally famed Musashino is where die-hard sushi lovers flock when they crave near perfection.

ramen tatsU-ya8557 research blvd. ste. 126Japanese comfort at its finest in Austin’s first brick and mortar, ramen-centric eatery.

satay3202 W. anderson ln.(512) 467 6731Noodles, curry, stir fry, dumplings. Try the Miang Khum.

spin modern thai cUisine14005 n. us hwy. 183 ste. 10000(512) 258 1365With an array of tasting and full plates, Spin offers a modern take on traditional Thai flavors.

sUZi’s china Grill & sUshi bar 7858 shoal creek blvd.(512) 302 4600Flavorful dishes like eggplant with garlic sauce or shrimp with lemongrass.

sWay1417 s. 1st st.(512) 326 1999The culinary master-

minds behind one of our favorites, La Condesa, cook up Thai cuisine with a modern twist.

tam deli & cafÉ 8222 n. lamar blvd.A local staple for fresh, authentic Vietnamese cuisine.

tarka indian kitchen5207 brodie ln. ste. 120(512) 892 2008Delicious and aromatic curries, biryanis and naan sandwiches.

thai passion620 congress ave.(512) 472 1244Menu speaks mostly of Northeastern Thailand, moderately priced.

tomodachi sUshi4101 W. Parmer ln.(512) 821 9472Innovative Japanese cuisine with spunk. Signature rolls include “Who’s Your Daddy?” and “Ex- Girlfriend.”

t & s seafood10014 n. lamar blvd.(512) 339 8434From the Dim Sum menu: delicate steamed shrimp dumplings, deep-fried egg rolls and much more!

Uchi801 s. lamar blvd.(512) 916 4808James Beard Award Winner Chef Tyson Cole has created an inventive menu that puts Uchi

foremost among sushi spots in Austin.

Uchiko4200 n. lamar blvd., #140 (512) 916 4808The sensational sister creation of Uchi, helped by Top Chef Paul Qui. Try the bacon tataki!

Whip in market & parloUr cafe1950 s. i-35(512) 442 5337This funky minimart-café satisfies keeps Austin weird with offbeat décor, copious beer and cheap, tasty food.

Barbecue

blUe ribbon barbecUe 120 e. 4th st.(512) 369 3119Three generations of Texas BBQ. Don’t leave without trying the banana pudding!

coUnty line5204 fm 2222(512) 346 36646500 W. bee cave rd.(512) 327 1742A busy, casual spot on the way to the lake is an Austin tradition and favorite. The barbecue turkey is tender, and the beans are out of this world. Arrive by boat and the captain eats free!

iron Works bbQ100 red river st.(512) 478 4855

No frills: grab your beer from the ice bucket and get ready for some traditional tender sauce dripping ribs.

franklin barbecUe900 e. 11th st.(512) 653 1187Crowned Best BBQ Restaurant in America by Bon Appetit, Aaron Franklin’s eponymous eatery is a true Austin institution. Go early and be prepared to wait! (It is worth it).

freedmen’s2402 san gabriel st.(512) 220 0953Classic barbecue from a historic, converted home in West Campus.

JmUeller bbQ1502 s. 1st st.(512) 229 7366 BBQ legend John Mueller returns to Austin with some of Texas’ finest, no-frills barbecue.

la barbecUe1502 s. 1st st.(512) 605 9696In the heart of South First, La Barbecue whips up classic barbecue with free beer and live music.

lamberts doWn-toWn barbecUe401 W. 2nd st.(512) 494 1500Not your standard BBQ fare, meats are given an Austin twist, like the rib-eye glazed with brown sugar and mustard.

rUby’s bbQ 512 W. 29th st.(512) 477 2529Long-time campus-area staple and a local favorite.

the salt lick 18001 fm 1826(512) 858 4959A short drive to Driftwood, it serves up some of the best ribs, brisket, and sausage in the state.

stiles sWitch bbQ & breW6610 n. lamar blvd.(512) 380 9199Slow-smoked classic BBQ and local craft brew in a nostalgic, 50s-inspired atmosphere. What more can you ask for?

stUbb’s bbQ801 red river st.(512) 480 8341Known for its music scene as much as its barbecue, which is traditional and satisfying.

Continental

apothecary cafÉ & Wine bar 4800 burnet rd.(512) 371 1600Dark wood paneling and an impressive wine and coffee list make Apothecary the perfect place to unwind.

banGer’s saUsaGe hoUse and beer Garden

79 & 71 rainey st.(512) 386 1656Banger’s brings the German beer garden tradition stateside with an array of artisan sausages and over 100 beers on tap.

barley sWine2024 s. lamar blvd.(512) 394 8150Comfort food doesn’t get much better than the pork- and beer-centric gastropub by Chef Bryce Gilmore.

bess bistro500 W. 6th st.(512) 477 2377A French bistro with a southern Cajun flair.

cafÉ Josie1200 W. 6th st.(512) 322 9226Innovative and flavorful plates with fresh ingre-dients.

the carillon1900 university ave.(512) 404 3655A fine dining spot, featur-ing New American cui-sine with a sophisticated twist.

conGress200 congress ave. (512) 827 2760Flavorful dishes with global inspiration, includ-ing bone marrow brulee and hamachi sashimi.

contiGo2027 anchor ln.(512) 614 2260


Ranch to table cuisine and an elegant take on bar fare.

copper restaUrant & dessert loUnGe3401 esperanza crossing ste. 104(512) 215 3633In addition to a full confectionary for your sweet cravings, Copper offers a menu emphasizing farm-to-table produce, housemade breads and artisan meats.

crÚ Wine bar 11410 century oaks ter. ste. 104(512) 339 9463238 W. 2nd st.(512) 472 9463Elegant, tasteful small plates with over 300 wine selec-tions, perfect for pairing.

the driskill Grill 604 brazos st.(512) 391 7162A dark intimate feel and rich American culinary experience.

east side shoW-room1100 e. 6th st.(512) 467 4280Delicious vintage cocktails in an eccentric space. Enjoy local art, music and cuisine by Sonya Cote.

easy tiGer709 e. 6th st.(512) 614 4972Delicious bake shop up-stairs and beer garden downstairs. Enjoy the signature house-made sausages.

eleven plates & Wine3800 n. capital of texas highway(512) 328 0110In addition to small and large plate menus, Eleven offers a cocktail program that brings together pre-prohibition classics and award-winning new concoctions.

epicerie2307 hancock Dr.(512) 371 6840A café and grocery with both Louisiana and French sensibilities by Thomas Keller-trained Sarah McIntosh.

fabi + rosi509 hearn st.(512) 236 0642A husband and wife team cook up delicious European style dishes like pork schnitzel and paella.

fino restaUrant patio & bar2905 san gabriel st.(512) 474 2905Mediterranean bites and plates for sharing. Sip a handcrafted cocktail al fresco on the lovely patio.

foreiGn & domestic 306 e. 53rd st.(512) 459 1010Husband and wife duo, Ned and Jodi Elliott, whip up innovative cuisine with a nose-to-tail approach and lots of organic ingredients.

Green pastUres restaUrant811 W. live oak st.(512) 444 4747An Austin ancestral

estate in South Austin, open for lunch, dinner, and serving a Sunday brunch buffet.

GoUrmands neiGh-borhood pUb2316 Webberville rd.(512) 610 2031Pair your brew with unfussy sandwiches and gastropub fare.

hillside farmacy1209 e. 11th st.(512) 628 0168Part grocery store, part casual eatery, Hillside Farmacy is located in a beautifully restored 50s-style pharmacy. Oysters, cheese plates and nightly dinner specials.

hopfields3110 guadalupe st.(512) 537 0467 A gastropub with French inclinations and unique cocktails.

Josephine hoUse1204 W. lynn st.(512) 477 5584Rustic, continental fare with an emphasis on fresh local and organic ingredients.

max’s Wine dive207 san Jacinto blvd. (512) 904 0111An elegant take on late-night comfort food. Its unfussy yet sophisticated dishes complement an extensive, daily-rotating wine list.

mUlberry360 nueces st.(512) 320 0297

The coziest of wine bars—try the burger with Gruyère, pancetta and a fried egg.

parkside301 e. 6th st.(512) 474 9898Extensive raw oyster bar and a carefully curated menu of delicious specialties. Try the braised short rib.

restaUrant JeZebel800 W. 6th st. ste. 100(512) 436 9643Chef Parind Vora reopened his acclaimed Restaurant Jezebel, featuring his signature,

innovative flavors. Diners can choose from two, sumptuous prix-fixe menus.

salty soW1917 manor rd.(512) 391 2337A late-night, pork-loving dining destination, Salty Sow serves up creative signature drinks, including a Blueberry-Lemon Thyme Smash.

second200 congress ave. (512) 827 2750Another venture from Chef David Bull, Second offers a casual bistro

experience in the heart of the 2nd Street District.

sWift’s attic315 congress ave.(512) 482 8842Overlooking Congress Avenue, Swift’s Attic draws from global inspira-tions and serves up inven-tive cocktails in a historic downtown building.

trace200 lavaca st.(512) 542 3660At W Austin, TRACE focuses on responsibly- and locally-sourced ingredients from Texan farmers and artisans.

http://goo.gl/V465C


trio98 san Jacinto blvd.(512) 685 8300This sleek space with a lovely trellised patio overlooks Lady Bird Lake from its perch in the Four Seasons Hotel.

Uncorked tastinG room and Wine bar900 e. 7th st.(512) 524 2809Build your own wine flights or choose from the carefully edited list from around the world.

vino vino4119 guadalupe st.(512) 465 9282In addition to a full menu of small and large plates, Vino Vino lives up to its name with a great wine list and wonderful cocktails.

Wink1014 n. lamar bvd.(512) 482 8868The food is fantastic, and portions are meant for tasting, not gobbling. Fresh, local ingredients abound.

French

baGUette et chocolat12101 bee cave rd.(512) 263 8388Authentic French bakery and fine pastry in Austin! Delicious Nutella Crepes and Croissants.

blUe dahlia bistro1115 e. 11th st.

(512) 542 9542A cozy, French-inspired bistro serving up breakfast, lunch and dinner.

cheZ noUs510 neches st.(512) 473 2413Favorites include veal sweetbreads and salad Lyonnaise. Start with an assiette de charcuterie.

henri’s cheese & Wine2026 s. lamar blvd.(512) 442 3373Part charcuterie, cheese and wine shop, Henri’s offers a cozy space to explore new wines or take a bottle home.

JUstine’s brasserie4710 e. 5th st.(512) 385 2900With its French bistro fare, impressive cocktails and charming décor, Justine’s has Austin looking east. Expect a crowd, even late at night.

lenoir1807 s. 1st st.(512) 215 9778French fare with a global outlook, drawing from the cuisines of India, North Africa and more.

pÉchÉ 208 W. 4th st.(512) 492 9669Enjoy prohibition-style cocktails at Austin’s first absinthe bar, alongside standout dishes of smoked duck salad and citrus-dusted salmon.

Italian

360 Uno trattoria & Wine bar3801 n. capital of tX. hwy.(512) 327 4448Great espresso bar and a mostly Italian wine list complete with an outdoor patio for sipping.

asti trattoria408 e. 43rd st.(512) 451 1218The chic, little Hyde Park trattoria offers delicious Italian cuisine, like saffron risotto with seafood.

the backspace507 san Jacinto blvd.(512) 474 9899Exquisite pizzas hot out of the wood-fired brick oven straight from Naples and classic antipasti.

botticelli’s1321 s. congress ave.(512) 916 1315An inviting trattoria with warm Tuscan colors. Small bar up front and cozy booths in back.

east side pies1401 rosewood ave.(512) 524 0933Specialty pies with delicious flavors, from gorgonzola and roasted onions to the infamous Guiche, with goat cheese and spinach.

enoteca1610 s. congress ave.(512) 441 7672Superb bistro menu with panini, salad, pasta and pizza and handmade pastries.

the Grove Wine bar6317 bee cave rd.(512) 327 8822Lively, popular Westlake wine bar and Italian restaurant. The wine list boasts more than 250 wines by the bottle.

GUsto italian kitchen & Wine bar4800 burnet rd.(512) 458 1100Hearty Italian fare with big, bold flavor.

hoUse piZZeria5111 airport blvd.(512) 600 4999This Airport Boulevard eatery is a destination for innovative, wood-fired pizzas.

la traviata314 congress ave.(512) 479 8131A long-loved Austin spot for its fine Italian fare. Perfect spaghetti carbonara.

mandola’s italian market4700 W. guadalupe st.(512) 419 9700Casual Italian fare and a well-stocked gourmet grocery, alongside a deli, bakery and espresso and gelato bar.

north11506 century oaks ter., ste. 124(512) 339 4440Guests enjoy modern Italian cuisine in a sleek interior at this Domain standout.

olive & JUne3411 glenview ave.(512) 467 9898South Italian cuisine, inspired by Chef Shawn Cirkiel’s family recipes

QUattro Gattiristorante908 congress ave.(512) 476 3131An array of mouthwater-ing Italian dishes, from four-cheese pizza to oven roasted rack of lamb.

siena ristorante toscana6203 capital of tx. hwy.(512) 349 7667Set in a Tuscan-style villa, Siena captures the essence of its namesake region.

spartan piZZa1104 e. 6th st.(512) 484 0798For thin-crust, New York-style aficionados, Spartan is your East Austin go-to.

taverna258 W. 2nd st.(512) 477 1001Taverna’s menu boasts sophisticated salads, pastas, pizzas and trademark risottos.

trattoria lisina13308 fm 150 W.Driftwood, tX.(512) 894 3111Nestled in the Mandola Estate Winery in Drift-wood. Expect hearty por-tions of rustic Italian food.

trento3600 n. capital of texas hwy(512) 328 7555

Creative cocktails (don’t miss the Whiskey Jacket), full wine list, delicious Italian fare. A Westlake favorite.

vespaio1610 s. congress ave.(512) 441 6100Daily rotating menus offer the best of the season and the freshest from Vespaio’s bountiful garden and local markets. A long-time Austin favorite.

via 313 piZZa1111-b e. 6th st.(512) 939 1927Deep-dish, Chicago-style pizza—perfect for a late night out.

Winflo osteria1315 W. 6th st.(512) 582 1027Classic Italian fare made simply and with locally sourced ingredients.

Latin America

aZUl teQUila4211 s. lamar blvd.(512) 416 9667An exquisite variety of South Central Mexican fare, including the famous Chile Rellano en Crema.

bUenos aires cafÉ1201 e. 6th st.(512) 382 118913500 galleria cir. ste. 120(512) 441 9000Argentinean specialties like meat sandwiches on baguettes, empanadas and tasty pastries.


Team-building exercises, hands-on cooking lessons

and fully catered events for food enthusiasts utilizing

the school’s 9,000 square foot garden, commercial

kitchens, and dining room.

CULINARY ADVENTURES

For more information contact: Special Events Manager,Nancy Marr 512-451-5743 / [email protected]

6020-B Dillard Circle Austin, Texas 78752 / escoffier.edu

cantina laredo201 W. 3rd st.(512) 542 9670Authentic Mexican food. For the guacamole starter, we licked the bowl clean.

chUy’s1728 barton springs rd.(512) 474 445210520 n. lamar blvd.(512) 836 32184301 William cannon Dr.(512) 899 2489Often a long wait for this beloved, packed cantina. The pillowy, fried flautas are the best in town.

coraZon atcastle hill1101 W. 5th st.(512) 476 0728Inspired by kitchens across Central Mexico.

cUrra’s Grill614 e. oltorf st.(512) 444 0012Delicious interior Mexican food in a casual environment.

el alma1025 barton springs rd.(512) 609 8923Chef-driven, authentic Mexican cuisine.

el chile cafÉ ycantina1809 manor rd.(512) 457 9900An intersection of Tex-Mex and interior Mexican cuisine. Many great sauces enhance delicious dishes.

el chilito2225 manor rd.(512) 382 3797

Little brother to El Chile, El Chilito offers a pared-down menu of made-to-order items.

el meson teQUileria2038 s. lamar blvd(512) 442 4441Family recipes and fresh ingredients in this South Austin kitchen.

el naranJo 85 rainey st.(512) 474 2776Iliana de la Vega and Ernesto Torrealba, the husband and wife team behind El Naranjo, serve up authentic cuisine from Mexico’s interior.

el sol y la lUna600 e. 6th st.(512) 444 7770As quintessentially Austin as it gets. Great migas and fresh juices.

fonda san miGUel2330 W. n. loop blvd.(512) 459 4121For over 30 years, Aus-tinites have flocked to Fonda San Miguel for a traditional, interior Mexi-can menu. A curated wine list that pairs well. Reser-vations recommended!

fresa’s chicken al carbon915 n. lamar blvd.(512) 428 5077Savor slow-grilled Peeler Farms chicken from this colorful drive-through eatery, alongside fresh salsas, salads, tortillas and homemade ice creams.

Garrido’s 360 nueces st.(512) 320 8226

A flavorful modern Mexican menu inspired by the kitchen of Chef Garrido’s grandmother.

Gloria’s3309 esperanza cross-ing, ste. 100(512) 833 6400Perfect for date night at the Domain, Gloria’s serves upscale Mexican cuisine and offers a spacious patio.

GUero’s taco bar1412 s. congress ave.(512) 447 7688No frills tacos. Try the Queso Flameado with chorizo and jalapeños.

la condesa400 W. 2nd st.(512) 499 0300Delectable cocktails, tasty tacos and appe-tizers, all inspired by the hip and bohemian Condesa neighborhood in Mexico City.

maUdie’s cafe Five locations delivering delicious, solid Tex-Mex in a fun, laid-back family friendly atmosphere. Maudies.com

manUel’s310 congress ave.(512) 472 755510201 Jollyville rd.(512) 345 1042Not your usual Tex-Mex, more international interior Mexican fare. The chile relleno bursts with shredded pork and walnut cream sauce.

matt’s el rancho 2613 s. lamar blvd.(512) 462 9333

After 55 years, this Austin classic is still going strong. Start with the Bob Armstrong Dip.

mi madre’s restaUrant2201 manor rd.(512) 322 9721In a city as loyal to the breakfast taco, it’s hard to name the best one—but this family-owned spot has earned the title from the Austin Chronicle.

nUevo leÓn 1501 e. 6th st.(512) 479 0097

Family-run institution on the East Side with a loyal following.

papi tino’s1306 e. 6th st.(512) 479 1306Nestled in a converted house on East Sixth, Papi Tino’s serves up modern Mexican cuisine and an impressive selection of delicious mezcals.

pelons802 red river st.(512) 243 7874Elegant Mexican cuisine in a rustic home with an enchanting patio.

polvo’s2004 s. 1st st.(512) 441 5446Between the salsa bar, patio seating, and delicious margaritas, this is one of Austin’s beloved Tex-Mex icons.

rio rita cafÉ ycantina1308 e. 6th st.(512) 524 0384A cozy coffee shop during the day and a romantic dinner spot in the evening.

santa rita tex-mex cantina 1206 W. 38th st.(512) 419 7482

http://goo.gl/woXpU


5900 W. slaughter ln. ste. 550(512) 288 5100Fresh ingredients, tradi-tional recipes, outstand-ing margaritas combined with bright interiors, attentive service, and solid menu offerings.

takoba 1411 e. 7th st. (512) 628 4466 Bold, authentic flavors with ingredients imported straight from Mexico.

vivo2015 manor rd.(512) 482 0300Fresh plates with a lighter hand.

Lunch Spots

the coUnter cafÉ626 n. lamar blvd.(512) 708 8800This breakfast and lunchtime favorite serves up organic and local fare.

foodheads616 W. 34th st.(512) 420 8400Fresh, inspired sandwiches, soups and salads in a charming, refashioned cottage.

noble sandWich co.11815 620 n. (512) 382 6248Gourmet sandwiches with a commitment.

Walton’s fancy and staple609 W. 6th st.(512) 542 3380This charming Sixth Street destination is equal parts café, bakery and flower shop. Perfect for packing a picnic!

Seafood

cafÉ Josie1200-b W. 6th st.(513) 322 9226Tropic-inspired seafood dishes in a vibrant, colorful interior.

clark’s oyster bar1200 W. 6th st.(512) 297 2525Larry McGuire’s latest venture offers an extensive caviar and oyster menu—a refreshing indulgence on Sixth Street.

eddie v’s primeseafood & steak9400 arboretum blvd.(512) 342 2642301 e. 5th st.(512) 472 1860Though known for fresh seafood, Eddie V’s prime steaks are some of the best in town.

perla’s seafood & oyster bar1400 s. congress ave.(512) 291 7300Expect the freshest fish and oysters flown in daily from both coasts,

carefully prepared with simple yet elegant flavors.

QUality seafood5621 airport blvd.(512) 454 5828Austin’s premier retail seafood market, offering the freshest catch.

trUlUck’s400 colorado st.(512) 482 900010225 research blvd.(512) 794 8300Seafood and steak lovers alike will love the weekly-rotating chef-inspired menu.

Southwestern

soUthWesternranch 616616 nueces st.(512) 479 7616Chef Kevin Williamson delivers on wild game, steaks and fresh seafood with a lively atmosphere.

soUth conGress cafe1600 s. congress ave.(512) 447 3905This SoCo staple draws quite a crowd whether for lunch, dinner or the weekend crowd with its classic brunch fare.

tacos and teQUila507 Pressler st.(512) 436 8226Chef Alma Alcocer is serving up a taste of the Southwest in this modern, industrial space.

Z’teJas Grill1110 W. 6th st.(512) 478 53559400-a arboretum blvd.(512) 346 3506Austinites wait hours to get into either the funkier downtown locale or the northern spot.

Steak

iii forks111 lavaca st.(512) 474 1776Traditional steakhouse menu with seafood choices and lobster tails.

aUstin land & cattle co.1205 n. lamar blvd.(512) 472 1813This Austin favorite boasts an impressive wine list to pair with sophisticated entrees.

bob’s steak & chop hoUse301 lavaca street(512) 222 2627Traditional American prime meats and seafood.

finn & porter 500 e. 4th st.(512) 493 4900Dazzles with steaks, chops, seafood, and sushi. Nestled inside the downtown Hilton Hotel.

fleminG’s prime steakhoUse & Wine bar320 e. 2nd st.

(512) 457 150011600 century oaks ter. ste. 140(512) 835 9463Excellent food, stellar wines, pleasant atmo-sphere and polished staff.

perry’s steakhoUse & Grille114 W. 7th st. ste. 110(512) 474 6300Start with the escargot or a lump crab cake. The main event, the steaks, are cooked to order and delicious.

rUth’s chrissteakhoUse107 W. 6th st.(512) 477 7884The USDA Prime Steaks seared to perfection and topped with fresh butter are the ultimate steak lover’s experience.

sUllivan’s steakhoUse300 colorado st.(512) 495 6504Steak and potatoes. Music at the Ringside. Cocktails in the bar.

Vegetarian

boUldin creek cafÉ1900 s. 1st st.(512) 416 1601Affordable and wholesome vegetarian cuisine, including soups, salads and sandwiches.

casa de lUZ1701 toomey rd.(512) 476 2535Take yoga or tai chi class-es before or after dining at this macrobiotic joint.

coUnter cUltUre2337 e. cesar chavez st.(512) 524 1540An East Austin haven for vegans and vegetarians.

daily JUice4500 Duval st.(512) 380 9046Pop by this fresh juice and smoothie stand after a run or before a swim.

mother’s cafe & Garden4215 Duval st.(512) 451 3994Everything beyond the garden variety, from veggie burgers to lasagna.

to submit a restaurant for inclus ion in the TRIBEZ ADining guide, or to submit corrections, please contact us by email at [email protected].

tribeza.com aPril 2013 139

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veracruz all natural1704 e. cesar chavez

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s ix years ago, I came to Texas and trav-eled across the state, teaching cooking classes in new cities every week. Along

the way, we stopped in Austin. For years, my wife, Vanessa, and I had been working in the restaurant business in San Francisco, but we saw the growing restaurant scene in Austin and how open-minded the city was—it was exactly what we were looking for. Soon, we packed everything in the truck, sold the house and drove all the way here. It was the beginning of our Austin adventure.

At first, the restaurants were a mystery to us, and we were always looking for good, authentic eateries, whether tacos or sushi or dim sum. One day, my oldest daughter, who is 13 years

old, came home thrilled about a new taco truck she had discovered with her friends. It was one of those places off the beaten path that end up being the best ones—and we’ve been going to Veracruz All Natural once a week ever since.

Let me clarify: my wife and I are from Spain, so we don’t come to here to find Spanish food. Our own cuisine at our upcoming restaurant, Barlata, will be very different and include 50 to 60 different tapas, from piquillo pep-pers to rabbit. But after being in the restaurant business for many years, eating out becomes not a ne-cessity but a pleasure—and often, the simpler, the better. Here, at Veracruz All Natural, everything is done right. The ingredients are fresh, and the ladies make all their own tortillas, salsa and guaca-

mole. Every week, you’ll find us on that bustling corner of Cesar Chavez and Chicon, savoring our staple migas and fish tacos.

Even the neighborhood itself is full of cul-ture. As you drive along Cesar Chavez, you’ll see vibrant Latino grocery stores and dozens of piñatas hanging in the doorways—much like the beautiful Missions of San Francisco, where I spent many years. It’s in this atmosphere that we feel most at home, because after being surrounded by food all day, dining out should be simple and enjoyable. For us, it’s about good food and authenticity. daniel olivella

Chef Daniel Olivella and his wife, Vanessa Jerez, are co-owners of Barlata, a colorful Spanish tapas bar set to open this summer on South Lamar.

Daniel Olivella& Vanessa Jerez’s

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May Food Issue

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