The best fashion in store and online - Masjid-E-Noor...The best fashion in store and online...

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FLANNELS autumn winter 2008 menswear & womenswear www.flannelsfashion.com Plus Cyndi Lauper The Strokes’ Albert Hammond Jr Triumph Motorcycles Hyères Festival of Fashion & Photography Cyprus Boutique Travel The best fashion in store and online

Transcript of The best fashion in store and online - Masjid-E-Noor...The best fashion in store and online...

Page 1: The best fashion in store and online - Masjid-E-Noor...The best fashion in store and online Preferred Supplier to the 2008 European RYDER CUP Team 0040708_FlannelsMagUK 30-06-2008

Flannelsautumn winter 2008 menswear & womenswear

www.flannelsfashion.com

Plus Cyndi LauperThe Strokes’ Albert Hammond JrTriumph MotorcyclesHyères Festival of Fashion & PhotographyCyprus Boutique Travel

The best fashionin store and online

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www.marcjacobs.com cole photograph ed by juergen teller

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Face to Face – Customer PolaroidsTruth or Dare – Malene Birger’s seductive exploration of art and fashionOssie Clark – we speak to Avsh Alom Gur, Creative DirectorLiberation Classics – Bamford & Sons updating craftsmanshipWild Winter Couture – Ramosport’s Julien Fournie on reinterpreting heritageHoss Intropia – Spain’s most bohemian fashionistasThe Jeans Star – Marithé + François Girbaud go cosmicNature Couture – Etro’s nature versus fashion for autumnAim High – Nigel Cabourn’s celebration of Edmund Hilary’s Everest ascentBeat the Ecosystem – CP Company and Stone Island fight the weatherJeffery West –Guy West on alternative footwearDenim Super Snobs – PRPS denim for connoiseursMoncler – from mountains to catwalkTom Ford – luxury menswear that the Great Gatsby would be proud of

Music & LifestyleTriumph – 50th Anniversary of the BonnevilleTrue Colours – We caught up with eighties icon, Cyndi LauperAlbert Hammond Jr – The Strokes’ guitarist on his new solo albumHyères Festival of fashion & photographyAphrodite Class – Cyprus cool in the boutique hotels and spasEverybody Icon – Stocktons interiors for contemporary chic

Fashion ShootsWomenswearEnchanted GardenShadow Play

MenswearCollision CourseThe Deepest Cut

AccessoriesFrom thy wardrobe bring thy chiefest treasure

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Published for Flannels by Flux MagazineEditor Lee TaylorFashion Director Claire LomaxArt Director John WalshEditorial Assistant Rachel Edwards

Photography & IllustrationHaidee Augusta, Antony Crook, Coco, Joachim Norvik, Clare Prentice, Tom van Schelven, Sophie Christian and Samantha Toro Paz at www.hoyfashion.co.uk

StylingBritta Burger, Amechi Ihenacho, Joe Miller, Camilla Pole, Yasuhiro Takehisa

WordsRachel Edwards, Sanyika Odiete, Elizia Volkmann, Leanne Rae Wierzba

Coverphotography Clare Prentice, styling Britta Burger, makeup Megumi Matsuno, Hair Sassoon Creative Team | sassoon.com, model Agniezka Golebiewska @ Next wearing leather button jacket by Patrizia Pepe, £495.

Flannels,Unit 6, Waterside,Wharfside Commerce Park,Trafford Park, Manchester,M17 1WD, UKTel: +44 (0)161 931 2550Fax: +44 (0)161 931 2559 Email [email protected] Marketing / PR [email protected] www.flannelsfashion.com

Flux Magazine,42 Edge Street,Manchester,M4 1HN, UKTel: +44 (0) 161 832 0300Email [email protected]

The views expressed in this magazine are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher and editorial staff. Reproduction in part or in full is forbidden without the written consent of the publisher.

FLANNELSAW08 Fashion

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AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELsFAsHION.cOM AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELsFAsHION.cOM

Tribute to YSLYsL continue to offer the perfect platform to preach from with their cult platforms. A must have cult buy for a few seasons, the ‘Tribute’ sandal with its retro-vamp criss-cross, T-strap design and platform sole on a 4 inch heel has been spotted on Kylie Minogue, Gwen stefani and Victoria Beckham. This season the sandals are in classic suede in purple, turquoise and classic black – all with gold piping. Plus any true fashionista is a fan of the demure Mary Jane and the fantastic patent heeled pumps are the ultimate in uber-cool for this season. Divine.

Wedding BoutiqueA wedding dress is the most important dress choice you’ll ever make, and hopefully one you’ll only make once! With so many spectacular designer dresses

and gowns emerging from the collections this season, there is an amazing choice available. Flannels have dresses from the best European collections – from Roberto cavalli and Dior to Prada (like this ‘Ivory Fluid satin Rose Dress’ by Dior £2355) so you can make it a real style statement, and a designer investment. And not forgetting the other half with our in store Made to Measure service with European and British tailoring labels available.

Amal GuessousHow you get from leather to cashmere is anybody’s guess, but when you see the cashmere from Amal Guessous it’s a little less of a leap. Morroccan born Guessous started manufacturing leather and silver goods in 1989, with fans including Mickey Rourke and Billy Idol. so from leather to cashmere? Well you cover the woollen preserve of cosy weekends in innovative, intricate tatoo designs to get a second skin fit for a biker, on cashmere. This could only come from Los Angeles – but absolutely loving the contradiction between tatoos and cashmere, we have selected standout Guessous cashmere crew necks and hoodies to sit alongside our sterling silver Guessous collection.

Stone Island Shadow Projectstone Island have delved into their archives to explore the technical performance of their clothing. From a discourse between stone Island owner and creative director, carlo Rivetti, and the design team, Acronym, the new stone Island ‘shadow Project’ is a collection that integrates the wearer, their environment and the materials. Divided into Proof, Augment, Resist and skin, the ‘shadow Project’ reinforces the idea of investing in a second skin. so while seasons may change, it’s reassuring to know that stone Island have created something that won’t let you down, whatever the weather.

Prada Fondazione Of course, we all know Prada for fashion, but with the Fondazione Prada, Miuccia Prada is also a supporter of innovative contemporary visual arts. This summer, the Milan based exhibition space was reimagined with tent like pavilions inside which animations by renowned swedish artist, Nathalie Djurberg, were projected. Djurberg’s small plasticine figures showed human beings at their most crass, psychopathic, and disarming accompanied by fidgety music, composed by fellow swede, Hans Berg. The book of the show by Germano celant (published by Progetto Prada Arte) is available now.

Toywatch FluoIf you are on the lookout for the hottest watch of the moment, then TOYWATcH’s eye-popping FLUO is one for you. Bringing a flash of colour to our wardrobes this winter, the bright colour palette of the Fluo watches are a true energy booster for all fashionistas who want to add an extravagant touch to their style. The ultra colorful watches are available in hot pink, lemon, lime, sea blue, orange and white, all featuring Toywatch’s quartz movement, with watch-case and strap in plasteramic with butterfly closing.

Anthony’s Restaurant, Leeds Refined contemporary elegance is the order of the day at Anthony’s restaurant on the third floor of Flannels, Leeds. With a great wine list and reasonable prices, the menu is a twist on English fare with whisky porridge, roast quail broth and shepherd’s pie with rosemary bread on the menu of this relaxed but impeccably turned out venue. For brunch, lunch or afternoon tea (with finger sandwiches, scones and clotted cream), or business breakfasts and evening events, Anthony’s reputation is grounded on attention to detail and imaginative cooking. And after enjoying the cuisine, why not visit the gallery space adjoining the restaurant for a little après-food culture.

Flannels

Dior JewelleryFrom the presentation of its first collection in Paris in 1947, christian Dior has stood for pure sophistication, with John Galliano’s audacity, glamour and street style a perfect match to the Dior woman of the third millennium. For autumn, alongside our Dior clothing collection, Flannels have a selection of fantastic Dior jewellery from the ‘Dior Preciously’ rings and necklaces in gilded metal, with carnelian beads and amethyst and glass cabochon (pictured), to the swarovski crystal encrusted ‘Dior Tinkles’ bangle to the ‘Diorart’ style with its opulent line and golden, warm colours inspired by the influential Austrian Art Deco artist, Gustav Klimt.

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Face to Faceso we wanted the input of some of our

customers on the clothes purchases you

cherish the most. How were we going to do

that? The only way was to meet some of

you face to face, so we sent our intrepid

team to the Flannels stores in Manchester

and Liverpool to meet some of our valued

customers in the flesh and interview you

‘voxpop’ style.

Name: Angela LeeAge: 21Occupation: Dental StudentFavourite designer

label: Dolce & GabbanaMost treasured

clothing Flannels

purchase: YSL Geisha platformsKey buy for this

autumn: Prada purple blouse

Name: Lisa HelliwellAge: 24Occupation:

BankingFavourite designer

label: GucciMost treasured

clothing Flannels

purchase: Fendi spy bagKey buy for this

autumn: Patent clutch bagName: Hilary Clark

Age: 52Occupation:

HousewifeFavourite designer

label: Prada, Flannels own label, Marc JacobsMost treasured

clothing Flannels

purchase: Flannels Dress and jacketKey buy for this

autumn: Great coat, smart suit, and LBD

Name: Michelle ChurchAge: 36Occupation: Product managerFavourite designer

label: Miu MiuMost treasured

clothing Flannels

purchase: Miu Miu handbagKey buy for this

autumn: Black dress and pencil skirt

Name: Gordon Lee Age: 20Occupation: SalesFavourite designer

label: GucciMost treasured

clothing Flannels

purchase:

Alexander McQueen Puma’sKey buy for this

autumn: All white Gucci trainers

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Name: Claire MarshAge: 34Occupation: I own my own bistro.Favourite designer

label: D&GMost treasured

clothing Flannels

purchase: Herve Leger dressKey buy for this

autumn: Gucci boots!

Name:

Jonathan SandsAge: 27 Occupation:

MusicianFavourite

designer

label: Milly

Name: Johanna SandsAge: 31Occupation: DesignerFavourite designer

label: Milly! Couture CoutureKey buy for this

autumn: Highwaisted trousers

Name: Emily HarperAge: 24Occupation: Sales consultantFavourite designer

label: Miu MiuMost treasured

clothing Flannels

purchase: Gucci A/W HandbagKey buy for this

autumn: Lace dresses and plaid print

Name: Anita FisherAge: 24

Occupation: Law student

Favourite designer

label: Patrizia PepeMost treasured

clothing Flannels

purchase: Some Gucci stilettos that I got for a bargain priceKey buy this autumn: Anything in electric purple

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YOUR BEST LOOK BEGINS WITH A GREAT HAIRCUT

FOR YOUR NEAREST SALON VISIT SASSOON.COMCHIMERA | AUTUMN WINTER 08

Chimera ads Flannels 08 18/7/08 10:31 Page 1

AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM

Transformation is at the centre of the By Malene Birger AW08 collection – perhaps a reflection of the changes afoot at the independent label with Ms Birger herself at

the creative helm. This is a label that is growing fast from its base in Copenhagen, with the sexy, sophisticated collections now available in an impressive 37 countries across the globe.

Malene Birger’s main inspiration comes from her mother and grandmother’s sharp fashion eye, and By Malene Birger has been celebrated since its inception in 2003 for design that brings style icons from the past right up to date.

AW08 is all about change and reinvention - leaving behind unnecessary clutter and giving yourself the freedom to bring about the changes you want right now. You are invited to take a risk – truth or dare – control or be controlled.

This concept of transformation is interpreted in an exploration of art and photography that creates a seductive, decadent image. With lean, sixties silhouette on the runway, the forthcoming collection paraded cocoon and pod-shaped coats, menswear style trousers with a hint of old school Hollywood drama all finely decorated with Birger’s own paint strokes on prints. Featuring chunky acrylic stones and retro beading, patent leather and fur trims; elements of the collection highlight the season’s biggest trend of wearable art. All accompanied by Malene Birger’s Darlings – Birger’s hand selected, hardcore trendsetters from the collection. Taking a cue from the saying, “There is a time to let things happen, and a time to make things happen!” for By Malene Birger, that time is certainly right now.

TRUTH OR DARE

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By Malene Birger invites us to take a risk for this season, with a seductive, swirling image enhanced by Birger’s own exploration of art.

WORDS RACHEL EDWARDS

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When you think of Marlon Brando in the Wild One or Evil Knieval in his ill fated attempt to jump the fountain at Caesar’s Palace in Vegas or even The Fonze saying “Hey”, in Happy Days, what motorbike are they riding? The all American Hog? No, the

beautiful machine they bestride so manfully is a Triumph and it is 100% British. Still privately owned and manufactured in Leicestershire, Triumph has remained a truly British company when Jaguar and Aston Martin have been hoovered up by German motoring giants. Triumph motorbikes are an icon of freewheeling independence. And it’s not the American dream of ‘Independence’ - more the very British variety of eccentric independence won by belligerence and generally not wanting to be told what to do. There’s something truly noble about a Triumph; the image of Steve McQueen in the Great Escape, one hand on the handle bars makes him look more like a cavalry officer than a hairy biker.

This year Triumph is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the launch of the Bonneville, possibly their most beautiful and best loved motorbike design. The very first Bonneville, the T120, was showcased at the Earls court Bike show in 1958. The Bonneville, was named after Johnny Allen’s 1950’s record breaking feats on a Triumph at the Bonneville salt Flats in Utah. Now fifty years on, Triumph are celebrating the anniversary with a special design by a modern day screen icon and Triumph fan, Ewan McGregor. He has designed a one-off version of this great bike that reflects its rich heritage, incorporating a copper-plated tank with black waxed cotton on the seat and side panel inspired by one of his own vintage bikes, as well as those ridden by steve McQueen, Elvis and Bob Dylan. Ewan explains, “I wanted to use a traditional waxed cotton material as it has such a resonance with the history of style in motorcycling and mix it with the tradition of coppering tanks.” He goes onto say that, “This is such an exciting project for me – the Bonneville has to be the ultimate in iconic British motorcycles, so the chance to create my very own design and see it through to production is amazing.” The Ewan McGregor Bonneville will be auctioned to raise funds for Unicef, and 650 limited edition bikes are on sale for fans.

Information can be found at www.triumphmotorcycles.com.

Triumph50TH ANNIvERsARy OF THE BonnevIlle

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Words Elizia Volkmann

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London in the mid-sixties and into the seventies - a time of youthful optimism and the uninhibited pursuit of pleasure. Iconic fashion designer, Ossie Clark, was right at the

centre of a storm of fashion, art, music and celebrity that multiplied to create a new lifestyle aesthetic. Born in 1942 in Warrington, Clark’s designs were the ultimate in innovation. His collaborations with Alice Pollock at Quorum transformed the boutique into a carefully curated shopping experience. He was known for his genius pattern cutting, flattering designs and use of fabulous prints created by his then-wife and textile designer in her own right, Celia Birtwell. He became famous for his theatrical catwalk spectacles, and also for his hedonistic lifestyle, which eventually led to the collapse of his business and personal life, and untimely death in 1996 when he was killed by a former lover.

Fast forward, and it was nearly 24 years since clark designed his last collection when the idea to revive the Ossie clark label emerged. In November, Marc Worth of WGsN purchased the name Quorom, and young fashion super-star Avsh Alom Gur was announced as creative Director of the new Ossie clark label. Gur trained at central st. Martins and designed for the likes of cavalli, chloe, and Donna Karan before he returned to the UK in 2005 to launch his own name label. As Avsh Alom Gur, his work was met with great critical acclaim, and won him the BFc Topshop New Designer Award three seasons running. He is known for his artistry, his creative vision, and the easy elegance of his silhouettes. I recently met with Avsh to discuss the re-launch, his work under the name Ossie clark, and the future of the label.

As a designer, how do you balance today’s market with the strong legacy and personality behind the brand?First of all, Ossie Clark is Ossie Clark. So while I am making sure that everything is wearable and desirable, it also must take into account the legacy. Whether you choose to respect or rebel against it, it is important to bear in mind. A dress has to work for the individual and her lifestyle. So for us it is about making beautiful, fashionable, effortless, well-finished garments that women can fall in love with, whether the historic name means something to her or not. So, it is really a post-conceptual brand. A fashion house that can offer a philosophy of how to wear clothes and how to look modern.

What do you borrow from the essence of Ossie Clark?I would like to strike a balance between inspiration and accessibility. Ossie Clark worked with celebrities to make one-of-a-kind outfits, but also produced high-volume collections that woman loved because of the shape. Many people focus on the prints, but without the incredible architectural shape, they would not work.

Can you tell me about the re-launch of the label?We chose the Serpentine Gallery, because we could keep the event small and informal. We worked with the idea of an empty jewelry store at night. There were 15 girls, and they were all different: different hair, heights and colour. With our clothes, it is all about individuality, and I would like to feel that the models’ individuality showed through the clothing. I classify the first collection as season zero. It was a presentation, not a catwalk, to tell the world that Ossie Clark is back, and that there is a great team of people behind it. It was a small capsule collection. To tell you that I am happy with everything? No. There are always things we would like to change. But it was a success, and it will only get better and continue to grow.

In an optimistic sixties London, Ossie Clark was at the centre of a cultural storm. Fast forward and the genius hedonist’s label is being revived with superstar fashion young-gun, Avsh Alom Gur, at the creative helm.

How do you intend to move forward from here?We have to keep in mind the colour and prints, because Celia Birtwell’s prints are so closely associated with the label and give us great scope for creativity. The essence of Ossie Clark was innovation, and in his original clothes there was something very positive and carefree. So I see it as quite free and open. It is more about evolution than revolution. We will have to see how these abstract ideas and inspirations translate into clothing over a few seasons.

Do you intend to keep the label based in britain?Yes, of course! Ossie Clark is fundamentally a British brand, and we intend to keep it here. People moan about it, but I think British fashion is fantastic. I would like to see more major fashion houses evolve here, but this has to do with budget, politics, and investment in culture. But the state of fashion - the designers, the ideas and the creativity - is great.

It Is about makIng beautIful, fashIonable, effortless, well-fInIshed garments that women can fall In love wIth, whether the hIstorIc name means somethIng to her or not.

ossIeCLARK

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words leanne rae wierzBa

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“A man’s life should determine his clothes, not vice versa.” Put this to the test and Bamford & Sons qualify to equip the modern man for city

dwelling, countryside retreating and everything in between. This is a label that offers real, distinctive design without pretentious propensities. It’s a luxury brand – but absent of the typical show-off logo, instead, communicating and liberating even, through universal craftsmanship and quality; something the majority of us like the sound of.

Offering an antidote to brash status-symbol fashion and giving some depth to the term understated, this is a label that harmonises the clothes we wear with the lives we lead. Bamford & Sons’ AW menswear collection is a renaissance of the classics – the shooting jacket, the trenchcoat, the tweed mix; all made lighter, and more contemporary and with the Bamford & Sons touch. Imagine a contemporary huntsman – country bred, but just as at home in the city.

The collection is created with 100% natural materials. Integrating organic fabrics whenever possible, from specially created finely finished linings, ecological leather tanned with soft vegetable dyes, to the use of organic cotton and natural dyed cashmere, it’s an undeniable balance of respect for design and the environment.

With exclusive distribution to Flannels in the North of England, we are awaiting the arrival of cotton rich oil cloth hunting jackets, triple colour button cashmere cardigans and Bamford & Sons’ signature double colour cashmere scarves that will no doubt serve you well in the forthcoming months.A celebration of luxury and integrity, their A/W collection in particular is an experience that will make you want to carry the outdoors everywhere with you.

Offering an antidote to brash status-symbol fashion, Bamford & Sons are updating the classics with craftsmanship, quality and sustainability.

LiberationClassics

WORDS RACHEL EDWARDSPHOTOGRAPHY GEORGE BAMFORD

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Heritage is one thing you cannot imitate, so there’s no uncertainty with a fashion company whose origins can be traced back to the Russian Revolution when a girl called

sarah began producing waterproof jackets for the soldiers of the Tsar’s army.

Julien Fournié, Ramosport’s Artistic Director, explains, “Ramosport is 105 years old and our heritage is rich with a century of creations. However, a century is a long time and I tend to refer more to the times when Anne-Marie Beretta was at the creative helm. she made Ramosport a landmark of Paris fashion, especially in the 1980s.”

Now located in Paris, sarah’s original boutique selling raincoats has developed to become Ramosport – the coat label with a reputation for distinctive luxe outwear.

“When I first came to Ramosport I searched the archives of the House to bathe in its DNA. My obsession was to propose coats and short jackets, in soft and luxurious fabrics, reinterpreting the house’s trademarks for today,” says Fournié; and if their fabrics were good enough for Russian winters, then who are we to argue. “Textile innovation is crucial at Ramosport, but also, fabric must serve design and

Wild Winter Couturestyle, not the opposite.”

Fournié cut his teeth working with Jean Paul Gaultier and claude Montana, and is always looking for those magic moments to inspire his design. “sometimes a sentence told by a friend, a look in a mystery woman’s eyes, a piece of music heard over breakfast, a novel, or a pieces of manga watched on cable TV late at night. I prefer courting inspiration, leaving it to chance, too afraid of unmasking its process, fearing it might vanish.”

Ramosport marry function with a couture edge, so it’s no wonder Hussein chalayan and Jean colonna have dabbled in the design of their trenchcoats. The label is synonymous with flawless attention to detail creating investment pieces that balance technical textiles with a clean, unfussy design.

speaking of the future, Fournié adds, “I wish to make Ramosport a complete fashion house providing tailored coats; but also dresses, and in the future, why not shirts, suits and accessories. If we manage this I will really be proud....”

Building on the inheritance of its past to cope with the weather conditions of the future, Ramosport has a heritage that is impenetrable - and we assure you, this includes the Autumnal rain.

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My obsession was to propose coats and short jackets in soft and luxurious fabrics, reinterpreting raMosport’s heritage tradeMarks with pertinent details for today.

Words rACHEL EdWArds

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The word ‘Intropia’ is a fusion of interior and utopia - for a woman who shies away from stereotypes and is constantly seeking something different, which make Hoss Intropia’s references for AW to the Vienna School of Decorative Arts and the Art Nouveau and later Art Deco movements completely appropriate.

Art Deco’s emphasis on modernity, exuberance, vitality and beauty was as escapist as any of the Hollywood musicals of the same era. It’s legacy of great beauty, craft and imagination is reflected in the sleek forms and patterns that feature in the Hoss Intropia AW collection. The label is known for its feminine designs and its AW08 collection is a concoction of oversized geometrics, stylised florals and stripes in a wash of warming colours in fabrics from tweeds and silks to merino wools and cashmeres with hand embroidery, sequins and stones for a touch of luxury.

So if you want your dresses to be more than something to cover you up, this is a label to help create a vision of your own modern Intropia.

Some see fashion as purely superficial, but if you agree with Virginia Woolf as we

do, then perhaps one of Spain’s most bohemian labels is for you. Hoss Intropia has been making its mark this side of the channel with its singular aesthetic and a liking for bold prints and contrasting colours since it was founded in 1994 by Constantino Hernandez.

Hoss Intropia is designed for the eclectic, cosmopolitan woman who enjoys boho chic, so it’s no surprise that faces of the Madrid based company have personified unconventional style. For AW08, actress Naomie Harris from ‘Pirates of the Carribean’ offers a reflection of their philosophy. Earlier seasons have seen Tamara Rojo (the Spanish first ballerina of the Royal Ballet in London), moon faced supermodel Lily Cole, and Sophie Auster (the smoky eyed actress, chanteuse and model daughter of writers Paul Auster and Siri Hustvedt is a French phenomenon) proving the perfect match.

HOSS INTROPIA

“DRESSES THOUGH THEY MAY SEEM FRIVOLOUS HAVE A MUCH MORE IMPORTANT ROLE…. THEY ALSO CHANGE OUR VISION OF THE WORLD AND THE VISION THE WORLD HAS OF US.” VIRGINIA WOOLFVIRGINIA WOOLF

WORDS RACHEL EDWARDS, ILLUSTRATION COCO, PHOTOGRAPHY OF NAOMI HARRIS FROM HOSS INTROPIA AW CAMPAIGN

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A shooting star shrieks across the night sky. And then suddenly dozens – maybe hundreds – maybe thousands; an astonishing firework display like driving

your car into a ferocious rain shower. For most, shooting stars are drowned by the artificial light of our neon existence. But in another universe, Girbaud have created their own fashion meteor shower, lighting up the night sky and exploring the mysteries of the style cosmos. Reflections and the contrast of fabric and cut; harmony and discord; the constellations explored in fashion form. Like a comet just returned from cold storage in the Oort cloud, the collection is shedding a crust built up over billions of years of exposure to cosmic rays, to explode into patterns that reinvent pockets and seams; that draw the back, the chest, the lap, the legs, and form a new universal jeans galaxy.

Marithé + François Girbaud, the avant garde jeans designers, are uncovering precious codes in the universe of fashion, stirring up the primordial soup to reveal the extraterrestrial genes in our jeans. Continuing their pioneering casual designs, the label, started in 1978 by husband and wife team Marithé and François Girbaud, continue to create unique, timeless street style with a clear French attitude.

For Autumn/Winter, laser treatments create wear and tear on urban shapes. The Girbaud constellation also reveals a new neckline, and knit is germinated on jackets and shirts flourishing on collar, cuffs and trims.

A mix of fabrics – always lightweight – are cut to create a singular outer silhouette and an inner dimension of fine, sectional linings. The half-moon print, which originated on t-shirts a few seasons ago, is emblazoned on shirts with prints circling the back of the neck. T-shirts are cut in a unique single piece with no side stitching. Geometric star motifs repeat on shirts, and denim jeans take up the star symbol on belts and details.

Marithé + François Girbaud have always been creative pioneers, and now they’re taking us interstellar with their precious clothing for stargazers.

The avant garde Marithé + François Girbaud go cosmic for AW08 with their collection that’s uncovering precious codes in the universe of fashion.

The Jeans

star

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this page:this page:this page:this page:this page: dress£980, clutch bag£370 and shoes£275 by PRADA

oppositoppositoppositoppositopposite: e: e: e: e: jacket byMONCLER £595

photography CLAREPRENTICEstyling BRITTABURGER

Enchanted gardenThe colours might be neutral, but the detail is in the charm of the construction and use of fabric, with frills, quilting and prints making a sculptural bridge between the minimal and the super-feminine to create an enchanted autumn.

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this pagetop: dress PATRIZIA PEPE £225

bottom: coat PATRIZIA PEPE £335

oppositedress MARC BY MARC JACOBS £345,clutch bag ZAGLIANI £795,peep toe shoes PRADA £275

makeup MEGUMI MATSUNOhair SASSOON CREATIVE TEAM | SASSOON.COMmodel AGNIEZKA GOLEBIEWSKA @ NEXT

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The Etro AW08 catwalk show in Milan was a homage to the goddess of nature, Demeter, with its harvest festival

theme where fruit and root vegetables became the ultimate accessories. But there will be no barren months of winter here, and certainly more than pomegranate seeds to sustain poor Persephone before her mother rescues her from Hades in the Spring.

For Etro, AW is time to cultivate the fields and of course at Flannels we completely agree with the idea of nurturing the soul through our fashion habits. so, with a menswear collection that is inspired by the art of the vegetable garden, Etro are reaping a good harvest. The catwalk may have featured soil and a hedge, but the nature versus fashion theme of the AW menswear is richly sophisticated with the paisley print Etro are so famous for coming a long way since founder Gimmo Etro penned the symbol of their fine, elegant designs in 1968.

The design is still kept in the family, with Kean Etro creating this prosperous collection, abundant in all the shades of the forthcoming autumn season. Rich and vibrant hues of golden yellow, rusty reds and tarnished browns combine with sumptuous velvet - extrovert in attitude and not for the style shy. The suiting features Prince of Wales checks, woven fleck pinstripes and paisley lapel detailing for the evening in two buttoned and double breasted styles; with hidden under lapel contrast fabric trims and bright inner linings.

completed by coloured stripe shirts with contrasting check and stripe collars, Etro’s Autumnal menswear collection promises a feast for senses starved of colour in the typically drab British season. A cornucopia of inspiration for what can only be described as what nature does best.

Etro’s nature versus fashion theme for AW08 is a prosperous affair inspired by the art of the vegetable garden!

words rACHEL EdwArds

NaturE-CouturE

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Beat theEco-system

C.P. CompanyFor the ever-evolving C.P. Company, their Autumn/Winter 08 catwalk debut during the Milan menswear shows marked something of a natural progression for a label that, in its 30 year history, has always contrasted classic design with modern, technological fabrics. Their high contrast, monochrome show marked a move into the international fashion spotlight that makes perfect sense for a label that has always managed the impossible combination of understated-statement style.

In the words of its chairman and founder, “The label is unique. It resembles a kitchen in which the chefs never tire of mixing ingredients in different proportions in search of new flavours.” Carlo Rivetti has led C.P. Company since 1989 down a research led path that places functionality at the heart of the brand.

C.P.Company’s non-conformist attitude to clothing design means they experiment heavily with function versus fashion, embracing modernity and technology through their fabrics whilst holding on to a sense of classic mens style. For Autumn/Winter 08 in store we will see a refined colour palette of blacks, tobacco and camel with C.P’s signature masculine shapes - formalwear and technical sportswear - in innovative fibre mixes; wool and cashmere with nylon and polyester protected with resins, flock prints and spraying; leather, hounds tooth checks and herringbone. C.P. Company is that rare mix of wearable versus cool, contemporary versus timeless; with a brand that has it all in the mix.

Mens collections for the British cold snap can take the high road or the low road; and for the out-and-out-casual, or for when you get the opportunity to escape the suit and tie, you are looking for clothing that can take everything that global warming throws your way (and looks the part of course). We take a closer look at two labels who are doing just that - Stone Island and C.P. Company.

photography haIDEE aUgUStaStylIng JoE MIllErMoDEl EDDIE tUCKEr @ nEVShaIr SaSSoon CrEatIVE tEaM SaSSoon.CoMMaKE-Up SaSSoon CrEatIVE tEaM | SaSSoon.CoM

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Stone IslandPushing new frontiers is something that Stone Island knows a lot about. Since 1982 they’ve been kitting out thrill seekers with outer layers so technically advanced they might as well be bullet proof. Their textile research labs mean they use processes previously unheard of in the clothing industry. From water filtering technology to vacuum coated microscopic stainless steel films to colour changing thermo reactive fabrics; their methods are adapted from the aviation and construction industries to make you ready for anything – whatever the weather.

For the Autumn/Winter 08 collection, Stone Island have combined the strength of Army and Navy with an urban sportswear aesthetic. Taking traditional outerwear such as the peacoat, parka jacket and duffle coat, they’ve come up with a take on function versus contemporary style that mixes the military and man made. Bi-colour double knits in 100% Todd & Duncan cashmere and pixel camouflage down jackets composed of two layers joined by a goose feather filled shell are some of the features you can expect, with hand painted camouflage inspired by artists such as Jackson Pollock ensuring that technical is never dull. Setting you up for whatever the eco system can throw at you, Stone Island have engineered an outer skin you can feel safe in.

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For many, footwear is a finishing touch. It’s the icing on an elaborately fashioned outfit, a personal stamp that sets you apart; and in the case of footwear label Jeffery-West, this remains at the core of their mainline brand identity. Speaking to Guy West, one half of the Northampton based creative duo that began the shoe label so many years ago, Guy explains how their reputation comes from an, “alternative

view. Whether it’s people, places, music, socializing, they all have a certain feel, you could call it darker or more decadent but always with some humour (along with a few infamous party’s and controversial photo shoots!).”

Placing their faith in the hands of craftsmanship, Jeffery West believe in tradition, not trends, and that is exactly what has earned them their renown for footwear that defies the current mass-produced market. “Our designs reflect an alternative, but with an underlying classic element, as quality is of the utmost importance to us. so the designs are not just about the latest throw away fashion,” explains West.

We are talking true British design here. The kind that West says, “rubs against the grain and does not take itself too seriously. It’s almost an arrogance that says, ‘sod what all the others are doing - we’ll do it our way.’ “

Taking this concept forward, their forthcoming mainline A/W collections take inspiration from icons including what West defines as ‘Richard Burton and Peter O’Toole meet Flashman for a night of private clubs and seedy drinking dens and all that would entail.’ Jeffery West shoes are British design at its most accessible, with future plans to, “spread the pleasure of their infamous shoes to a couple of other countries also.”

commanding our attention and more importantly, our eyeline, footwear is no longer seen guys as a finishing touch; more an opening gambit; one where going against the grain becomes second nature.

Footwear is no longer seen as a finishing touch, more an opening gambit, where

going against the grain becomes second nature. We speak to Guy West of the

Northampton based shoe label on their anti-trend, traditional, alternative footwear.

JeΩery West Words rACHEL EdWArds

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Find yourself a home away from home at our new store now open at Barton Square, Trafford Park. Tel: 08444 99 1146

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DenImsuPersnobs

When concocting the concept for PRPS, Harrell looked to other leading US designers for inspiration and having always been a fan of Ralph Lauren, used him as a muse to make PRPS a lifestyle choice. The brand provides for both the trendy urbanite and the original industrial denim wearers. The jeans were created to be eye catching, yet tough and unlike other makes, were fashioned to improve with age. Like their infamous slogan, PRPS denim becomes bruised but never breaks.

Today PRPS with its world famous purple label is worn and admired by fashionistas, superstars and denim connoisseurs for its distinguished yet unique style. PRPS don’t rely on publicity stunts, have always avoided the use of trendy advertising campaigns or celebrity seeding - in fact, they give nothing away - so when the eclectic mix of athletic and celebrity demi-Gods like David Beckham, Brad Pitt, Patrick Dempsey and Rio Ferdinand are seen rocking these jeans it’s because they, like any other PRPS customer, have appreciated the craftsmanship and have paid to wear the product.

To ensure that PRPS remains the leader in the somewhat over crowded premium denim market of today, the company remain faithful to their high quality values and have continually changed gears to wow their fans with new outstanding collections each featuring their signature stamps that have made this such a well loved and highly respected denim brand today.

Founded by former Nike designer Donwan Harrell, PRPS was created in 2005 to shake up the American denim market by combining luxury with quality craftsmanship. Seeking inspiration from Harrell’s Virginian roots, early 70’s drag racing and military style uniforms,

the mighty collaboration resulted in a jean to rival all others. The name ‘PRPs’ came from an abbreviation of ‘purpose’ - which is

entirely fitting considering the amount of time and effort devoted to the purpose of delivering the perfect denim product for the most discerning denim enthusiast. Having travelled the world, Harrell was determined to develop the opulence of denim using premium materials, and unlike most mass manufactured jeans which are made in china, PRPs denim is produced in Japan.

Harrell chose to work with artisan cloth manufactures in Japan as he believes that the Japanese have a better grasp and understanding of American culture and fashion history than most Americans do. so the raw, organic cotton is harvested in Africa then shipped to Japan where PRPs denim is woven in small batches on classic looms to produce a stronger, cleaner edge to the fabric. Although this long drawn out process produces less material and more waste, the end result is a denim which is superior in durability, texture and touch. The journey of just one pair of PRPs jeans - from the creative designer’s desks in Manhattan, to the cotton fields of Harare, Zimbabwe, to the construction stage in Japan and onto the shelves only in leading the Us and European stores, defines a new ethical globalisation within the fashion industry.

so, with the dedication that produces such characteristic fabric and the range of classic shapes and styles, it is the final attention to detail which really makes PRPs stand out. These signature traits include camouflaged pocket lining, a hand printed internal pocket logo and five different shanks on each button fly. A typical PRPs customer is a denim super snob, someone who wants the best quality jeans out there; the type of person who studies the interior stitching and someone who regards the distressing and ageing with utmost importance. It is thanks to their authenticity that PRPs has become a cult-status denim brand with fanatics collecting the wide range of looks from the clean and raw, to the deep and distressed.

A typical PRPS customer is a denim connoisseur, someone who wants the best quality jeans out there

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words sanyika odiete

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TrueColours

With a new album released this Autumn, eighties style icon cyndi Lauper, is still a girl having fun. And the technicolour songstress has lost none of her alternative sparkle and energy, working with Basement Jaxx et al to bring us a new album this autumn.

When you think of cyndi Lauper the giddy-ness and energy of the eighties hits you smack in the back of the head. Images of Prince and Madonna soon

follow. It was a technicolour time of strong tunes, stronger images and experimentation with brash ashion and colour. A cacophony of styles and genre all carried out with a tongue in cheek swagger.

cyndi Lauper with her singular voice and unique look stood out. she always felt the real deal somehow. Less studied than Madonna, with her razorsharp instinct as to when to change her skin, and the exact hue and colour to change it to for a particular moment in time. cyndi Lauper always

seemed a lot more chaotic and less controlled. she really was like the local kooky New York girl who had somehow managed to stumble her way into the limelight. At her peak, the tracks ‘Time After Time’, ‘Girls Just Want to Have Fun’ and ‘True colours’ along with her peroxide hairdos and fluorescent fashion lit up the charts with a electric authenticity that it is difficult to find in pop these days.

Now cyndi is back with her ‘Bring Ya to The Brink’ album, a dance infused offering written in cahoots with some of the world’s most respected electronic artist and producers. ‘I can talk forever,’ warned the 55 year old singer as we interviewed her in London on the eve of the release.

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You’ve been working with the cream of international electronic producers on the new album. Why did you choose to go this route for this record?Because internationally, dance music is pop music. I reached out to them because I thought they would have the same mindset as me, since I’m an artist and producer too. When you work together like that it’s more like being in a band. You’ve also been over here in London working with Basement Jaxx on the track ‘Rocking Chair’?I found them to be wildly creative and fun. I must say when I went to Brixton it was really magical for me because it was the first time I went across the river. I didn’t even realise what was on the other side. Brixton was like Williamsburgh in New York or Greenpoint. They were so generous to let me into their little haven. That’s where they make their magic. You always feel when you go off into your studio you’re like the mad scientist because it’s all about discovery and experimentation. We wrote from scratch which was fun. Those two are like madhatters but they’re really bright. I wanted to work with people in the dance world to experiment really. Not only Basement Jaxx, although the Basement Jaxx track is the most unusual of the whole thing, but that was us together. It wasn’t jazz but more like punk. And who else was I gonna write the story of Faye Delroy with? It had to be the Basement Jaxx cause everyone else might have been a little too serious. Rolling Stone Magazine were saying that with this new record, in a way you’ve gone back to your roots, the dancefloor. A bit like Madonna did as well recently. Do you see any connection?I’m really her cousin. Her evil cousin! For me it’s great when I see her doing stuff, or Prince. I get excited to see my old pals. They’re not really my old pals, I was never really close to them but in a way we were always in the magazines together. They always compared me to Madonna and we’re so different from each other. The only thing we really had in common was I hated conservative clothing and I think she did too. I think we were out at the same time and both of us love modern music. When I see her, I always laugh. I loved her work on ‘Confessions On A Dancefloor’ but this is very different from that.Is this record also a way to say thank you to your gay fans cause I know you’ve been supportive of the gay community for years, like with your True Colours tour. It is for them too. If they’re dancing with me to the music they’re dancing with me. I’m a friend and family of the community. For a long time I would run into that world and take refuge there when I couldn’t stand the straight world; when it drove me crazy. Cause I’m an odd person and I don’t really fit in. Sometimes I can’t take it and I’m too odd! So I have to go home to my peeps where I kind of fit in better. Cause everybody’s odd and different and a little crazy, and so it’s ok. They have seen me come out of a gorilla suit. All the nutty things that I did, I did with them.

And what about England? What’s your overall impression? It must seem very different to a native New Yorker?I happened to notice, and this is true, in England they don’t only drive on the other side of the road but they also sing on the other side of the beat, they do! If you listen to Americans sing, it’s lazier. In England, it’s stiffer. I find that really interesting. I could have learned it at home but I thought it was more interesting coming here, listening to how you talk, watching you drive. That’s what makes every English version of American music totally English. Totally fantastic. And that brings us onto Amy Winehouse - someone in the pop genre coming out of the UK that you admire and I’ve heard you feel an affinity with?Amy Winehouse to me is a lot like Dusty Springfield except what she did was she brought the tattoos in, she brought the dirty sloppy thing in and the content was totally different. The subject matter was totally modern sung in an old-fashioned way with old-fashioned rhythm, that was a little dirty. It was the way it went together, the components, that I think were really brilliant and fun. Gosh, I hope she makes some more music soon.So you are an avowed fan of English music and the whole English counter culture?I like all of that stuff. The punk movement here, Vivienne Westwood, my God, I adore her. I think she is the be all and end all. Let me tell you, when we were over there in the States and there she was with ‘Buffalo Gals’ I died. It was unbelievable. So of course I’m gonna come over here and do music. The people that you see here are totally different from the people that you see in the States. It’s been an adventure.

‘Bring Ya to the Brink’ album is out now. Cyndi lauper’s world tour hits the uk in october. For full details see www.cyndilauper.com.

yoU AlWAyS fEEl

WhEN yoU go off

INto yoUR StUDIo

yoU’RE lIkE thE MAD

SCIENtISt bECAUSE

It’S All AboUt

DISCovERy AND

ExPERIMENtAtIoN.

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Simon Green, 47 King Street West, Manchester M3 2PW Telephone: 0161 834 8903www.simongreeninteriors.co.uk

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The Strokes’ rhythm guitarist with a look that’s launched a thousand indie bands spoke to us on the release of his new solo album.

Cool purveyors of ultra melodic guitar pop, Albert Hammond Jr. and his band return to the fray with their second album, ‘¿Cómo Te Llama?’, a follow up to

the much feted ‘Yours to Keep’. He produced the album himself, a process he describes as ‘intense’. Instantly recognisable as The Strokes rhythm guitarist, Albert is as singular in his pursuit for the perfect melody as he is in his striking and much copied image. A look that’s launched a few thousand indie bands across the globe.

Albert and Co’s songs are immediate and very melodic. It reminds you of early rock n roll when many a classic was written from simple chord structures, enigmatic lyrics and strong melodic lines.

“Well, I fell in love with Buddy Holly when I was growing up and then Roy Orbison. I love melody and I feel like there are still so many melodies left to find. Early rock left an imprint on me that will never go away.”

There is often a tinge of melancholy in the songs as well. Bitter sweet.

“People tell me this. I guess I’m always suggesting that even at the best you still feel other things.”

AlbertHammondJr

You have a very recognisable style. Were you always into suits rather than the whole jeans and t-shirt look?

“I guess it slowly happened. I always enjoyed the respect I got as a kid while wearing a suit. I couldn’t be denied entrance.”

How does it feel to be more in the forefront than in The Strokes where you are more part of the group?

“A band is a band and I enjoy being anywhere that’s creative.”

There’s an instrumental track on the album called ‘Spooky Couch’. A melancholic wash of sound which seems a bit of a departure?

“I wrote a two minute instrumental that people wanted to hear on repeat. So I figured I’d loop the song and build it up with percussion and strings.”

What are you most pleased about with your second album?

“The songwriting, the playing, the arrangements. I love it. There was a moment when I doubted it but I truly love it. Both albums have lead me to where I am now - a much, much better songwriter!”

‘¿Cómo Te Llama?’ is out now on Rough Trade.

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H yères exists in its own special place and time on the southern tip of the French Côtes de Provence. The town was beloved by the English and European aristocracy

from the eighteenth century and their grand houses and palaces can still be seen amongst the palm trees. In more recent times Hyères has lost out in the international tourist stakes to nearby resorts such as Monte Carlo, Cannes and Saint Tropez. But since 1986, a new kind of aristocracy has been descending on the town each April for the international Hyères Festival of Fashion and Photography which draws the crème de la crème of the international fashion world to its doors.

Although pretty much unknown to the general public, the festival plays a major role in discovering the best emerging international fashion and photography talent. Each year, ten young fashion designers selected from across the globe, showcase their first brand-name collection in the professional environment offered by the festival. cutting edge designers such as Viktor & Rolf, Henrik Vibskov, swash, c-Neeon and Romain Kremer first showed here, and luminaries such as John Galliano, Ann Demeulemeester, Helmut Lang and Jean Paul Gaultier have supported the competition as members of the jury panel. You will also see art directors, picture editors and agents swarming around town wanting to be the first to sign up the next Alexai Hay or cedric Buchet, two of the photography competition’s recent finalists who went on to shoot campaigns for Gucci and Prada respectively.

The festival was dreamt up over 20 years ago by local hero, Jean Pierre Blanc. Amazingly he thought it all up as way of positioning the town as a current cultural force whilst still at business school. “Everyone said You are crazy! Fashion is in Paris, it will never come to Hyères ‘, but they were wrong.”

At the epicentre of the action, and the venue for many a sun soaked evening soiree, is the extensive and starkly beautiful Villa Noailles. If you think of Hyères old town as tumbling down a hill, then the villa sits right at the top looking down on the town and the surrounding countryside. Once a home and retreat for writers and artists including Picasso, Dali, Mondrian and Man Ray, the 1920s modernist villa now acts as the venue for the photography exhibition and as office for the festival itself. The fashion competition is held outside town at the Port d’Hyères, where an enormous catwalk marquee is set up on the beach.

The renown and respect the festival now commands draws the best rising international talent. Winner of the 2008 photography

Each April a new aristocracy descends on the tiny French town of Hyères for its international Festival of Fashion and photography, drawing the crème de la crème of the international fashion world to its doors. We caught up with Matthew cunnington and Audrey corregan, this year’s fashion and photography winners, to talk about the festival and their hopes for the future.

magicmoments

competition is Audrey corregan with her series of portraits of birds of prey, ‘Obviously’.

“I knew about the festival because it is quite famous. A friend of mine asked me to take pictures of her clothes: she wanted to apply for the fashion part and she asked me, ‘Why don’t you try

it in photography?’ I thought, ‘why not?’”That proved to be a good decision as she

impressed the panel of judges coming out on top of an impressive field. “When I won the prize, I felt gratitude and encouragement. It’s stimulating. It gives me energy to continue my work. It’s important to know that some people understand what you do and like it or are touched by it. I’m thankful to the jury’s members and the time and attention they gave us. It was incredibly rich to have all those different new point of view on our work!”

The award has spurred her on to new challenges and given her a confidence to really push herself creatively in many directions. “Now I’ve just arrived in New York, where I will follow a one-year

“fRoM A PERSoNAl PoINt of vIEW thE hyèRES fEStIvAl hAS ChANgED My lIfE IN AN INStANt.” mATThEw cuNNiNgTON, 2008 FAShiON wiNNER

words Lee tayLor viLLa noaiLLes photography micheL tettamanti

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moncler

Born in the mountains but alive in the city, fashion outerwear brand, Moncler, first became famous as one of the world’s most prestigious manufacturers of mountaineering

supplies. Fast forward, and the company named for its roots in alpine Monastier de clermont at the foot of the French Alps, has transformed itself for a fashion elite with its trademark down jackets for urban expeditions into the freezer.

Alongside their sleeping bags, lined cagoules and tents, Moncler’s first 1950s down jackets may have looked more like blue boxes than clothes, but to alpine explorers, the goose down-filled jackets were a godsend. Throughout the 1950s and 60s, Moncler equipped major high altitude expeditions, and in 1968 was official supplier for the French national alpine skiing team during the Winter Olympics.

With the rise in recreational skiing, Moncler’s history was shifting. In 1980, designer chantal Thomas, radically changed the Moncler aesthetic introducing buttons instead of zippers, fur trim, satin and reversible fabrics. In 1999 the first spring/summer collection was presented, followed in 2002 with a couture collection.

The secret behind the Moncler magic is feathers - the brand may have developed aesthetically, but it continues to insulate using about 300 grams of down from aquatic birds raised in Brittany and Perigord per jacket.

For this AW08, Moncler has overhauled its menswear collection, adding highly prized English and shetland wools to its high-tech, ultra sporty looks. The classic Moncler shapes are not lost, but the wool and the choice of steely grey evokes a less sporty, more urban feel. The hooded Branson in grey wool or black technical; the Darwin and Mackay with a thirties worker’s jacket style wool outer; and the springfield bomber contrasting technical glossy sleeves with wool torso.

For women, lightweight technical coats come in special vintage looks - ‘60s chalet chic or Retro couture. The glossy black sunbury’s unique hooded capelet sillhouette and geometric quilting; the cinched in waist of the full length Johanna and the shorter Kelly both quilted with high collar and three button fronting; the Badia’s primary purple technical zipper.

If you live in the city, but your heart is in the mountains, then a Moncler jacket is a serious must have this year.

From mountains to catwalk, Moncler adds wool to their famous feathers for AW08.

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program at the school of Visual Arts, thanks to the prize. I would like to exhibit again and publish books but I’m also interested in collaborations and the boundaries of commissions. It will depend on the people I meet and the projects. I’m open minded and curious!”

This year’s fashion winner is Birmingham based Matthew cunnington with his women’s collection, ‘Hail Mary’. Matthew, a graduate of the University of Westminster, found his inspiration from the life of his own mother who in 1969, due to social pressure, was forced to abandon her illegitimate daughter. The pair only met again thirty years later, and this collection is subtly influenced by this reunion.

Matthew was also enticed by the reputation of this forward thinking festival. “Hyères is renowned for being a launch pad for new designers. I initially heard of the competition from Diane Pernet when I met her at the British Embassy in Paris in October 2006, where I was exhibiting work as part of my degree. so after that I sent off my dossier of work to the selection panel.”

Being part of the festival has given him many moments that he will carry with him for a long time. “The main memories I have of the festival are meeting and enjoying the company of the other designers participating. We shared great moments at the Villa Noailles. You could sense the history of the villa and to be a part of that was really very special. There are so many good moments, from seeing the marquee where the show would be held for the first time. It was night time at the beach and the marquee was lit up. It appeared quite magical with the sound of the sea in the background.”

Winning the prestigious prize has been a dizzying experience and has given cunnington the backing and confidence he needs going forward.

“As a part of the prize I have PR with Paris based Pressing for six months and the opportunity of having a catwalk show with hair and make up at the L’Oreal office in Paris. At the moment I am collaborating with John sanderson on a new collection known as ‘Mourning Weeds’ which we hope to exhibit in February 2009. I have had lots of interest from magazines and press. From a personal point of view the Hyères Festival has changed my life in an instant.”

For more information about the villa Noailles and the Hyères Festival of Fashion and photography visit www.villanoailles-hyeres.com.

ILLUsTRATION AND cOLLEcTION BY MATTHEW cUNNINGTON

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this page:this page:this page:this page:this page: dress BY MALENE BIRGER £255

oppositoppositoppositoppositopposite:e:e:e:e: coat SONIA RYKIEL £395

photography CLARE PRENTICEstyling BRITTA BURGER

ShadowThis season, it’s

about feminine

silhouettes

emerging from

the shadow of

fashion excesses

to create a

powerful female

form, softened

with voluminous

ruffl es,

translucent

shimmering

fabrics and

primary reds,

purples and

pinks.

Play

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AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM 6160 AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM

oppositoppositoppositoppositopposite: e: e: e: e: dress by GIAMBATTISTA VALLI £1465, belt by GIAMBATTISTA VALLI £230

this page:this page:this page:this page:this page: dress by GIAMBATTISTA VALLI £1465, shoes by FENDI £345

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this page: this page: this page: this page: this page: dress D&G £220

oppositoppositoppositoppositopposite (e (e (e (e (clockclockclockclockclockwise frwise frwise frwise frwise from tom tom tom tom top right):op right):op right):op right):op right):dress MOSCHINO CHEAP&CHIC £420;top £160 and trousers £150 HOSSINTROPIA; jacket £620, shirt £190and trousers £770 all MIU MIU; dressDOLCE & GABBANA £2245, shoesFENDI £345

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this page tthis page tthis page tthis page tthis page top: op: op: op: op: dress JOSEPH £189,shoes FENDI £345

this page bottthis page bottthis page bottthis page bottthis page bottom:om:om:om:om: dress by GUCCI £880

oppositoppositoppositoppositopposite: e: e: e: e: dress HERVE LEGER £1125

hair SASSOON CREATIVE TEAM | SASSOON.COMmakeup MEGUMI MATSUNOmodel JILLIAN @ UNIONstyling assistants OLIVER ARLT, NAOMI BEAUVOIR BLACK

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jacket by PRADA £1325

photographer JOACHIM NORVIKstylist YASUHIRO TAKEHISA

cap £40, jumper £80, shirt £90,jeans £90 by ONE TRUE SAXON

COLLISION COURSE

From classic leathers and

chunky knits, to retro

workwear and sports-fashion,

our men’s casual collections

sum up colliding eras in

midnight-winter shades of

grey and deep blue (with

black of course) for winter.

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blue jumper £95, t-shirt£40 and jeans £130 all byPAUL SMITH JEANS

jacket £185, check shirt £85,white stitch jeans £95 all by

PAUL SMITH JEANS

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this page this page this page this page this page leather jacket by GUCCI £1525, trousers by Y-3£210, trainers by ALEXANDER MCQUEEN PUMA £155

oppositoppositoppositoppositoppositeeeeetttttop left: op left: op left: op left: op left: jacket by MONCLER £710, shirt by HUGO BOSS£100, jeans by YEAR OF £295tttttop right:op right:op right:op right:op right: knitted jacket £495 and beige trousers £225both PRADA, polo shirt PRADA LINEA ROSSA £135bottbottbottbottbottom left:om left:om left:om left:om left: jacket by MONCLER £710, jeans by YEAR OF£295, shirt by YOHJI YAMAMOTO £475, trainers byALEXANDER MCQUEEN PUMA £160bottbottbottbottbottom right:om right:om right:om right:om right: jacket by Y’S FOR MEN £610, grey cardiganVIVIENNE WESTWOOD £215, shirt RALPH LAUREN £75

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model BEN WADDELL @MODELS 1hair SASSOON CREATIVETEAM | SASSOON.COMmake-up KERRIE ANN MURPHYphotographer assistantTOM MORANstylist assistant AI KAMOSHITA,MAI SUZUKI

jacket by DOLCE & GABBANA£1525, jeans by PRPS £330,trainers by ALEXANDERMCQUEEN PUMA £155, watch byTOYWATCH £155

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ONETrueSaxon is a registered trade mark of ONETrueSaxon Limited.

© ONETrueSaxon Limited, 2008.

To order your free copy of the Autumn / Winter 2008catalogue go to :

www.onetruesaxon.com

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opposite: white & goldsunglasses £1015 and black &

silver sunglasses £1375 both byCHROME HEARTS

this page: cream bag ZAGLIANI£1495, pewter bag MIU MIU£620, purple bag MARC BY

MARC JACOBS £365, pink bagMARC BY MARC JACOBS £310,

shoes PRADA £475

FROM THY WARDROBE BRING

CHROME HEARTSWhether you have plans for

some winter sun, or if you just

can’t take off the shades in the

darker months, Chrome

Hearts sunglasses cannot

avoid transporting you a

million miles for some luxury

joie de vivre this winter.

Featuring their signature

rockstar-esque fl eur-de-lys,

dagger and fl oral cross

designs across their luxury

silver range, Chrome Hearts is

a status symbol brand with

boutiques in New York, Tokyo,

Paris and Honolulu, and a

clientele that includes Cher,

Ben Affl eck, Mischa Barton

and Karl Lagerfeld.

From the exotic wood, fi ne

leather, precious stones and

sterling silver decorations, to

the latest optical technology,

to the gothic iconography, the

Chrome Hearts collection is

justifi ably one of the most

expensive eyewear collections

ever produced.

Chrome Hearts sunglasses

are available in Flannels

including styles with pearl side

inlay and 22 carat gold plated

with leather detailing.

Stock up from our treasure

trove of accessories for men

& women especially selected

to bring a touch of opulence

to the darker seasons.

THY CHIEFEST TREASURE....

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opposite: Black FaceOdemans (top right) £255,Black Diamond Face(middle left) £265, WebStrap (bottom) £135 all byTOYWATCH

this page top left: beltGUCCI £185, wallet PAULSMITH £140, round andsquare cufflinks PAULSMITH £55, money clip£70 and dog tag necklace£160 both DOLCE &GABBANA

this page top right frombottom: PAUL SMITHholdall £240, brownmessenger bag D&G £165,black clip bag PRADA£725, mahogany holdallGUCCI £955, black hatGUCCI £155this page opposite fromleft: black shoes PRADA£350, brown bootsMAGNANNI £265, antiqueboots DOLCE & GABBANA£500, stitch loaferJEFFERY WEST £145

TOYWATCHIf the watch on your wrist

defi nes your personality,

then Italian watchmaker,

Toywatch, says playful

indulgence with its

oversized fashion

timepieces. Designer and

vintage watch devotee,

Marco Mavilla, has made his

own brand of watches

fashionable and colourful,

mixing luxury with fun and

getting serious with his

maniacal attention to detail,

great chunky shapes,

materials from steel to

crystal to high-tech

polycarbonates to

ceramics. Described as

‘Rolex meets Swatch’,

Toywatch’s creations are

the must-have accessory of

the moment, adorning the

wrists of Charlize Theron

and Uma Thurman, Mark

Wahlberg and Clive Owen.

Ranging from the

surprisingly affordable,

Toywatch have watches

for everyone, from outfi t

matching plastic styles to

the super-luxe uber sleek

black ceramics. With

classic lines and Miyota

Quartz Movement,

Toywatch is a luxury

brand that is here to stay.

Ranges available at

Flannels this season

include styles from the

Crystal, Total Stones,

All Black, Strong and

Oversize collections. Also

available will be the neon

Toywatch Fluo Collection.

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red wallet MIU MIU £155, purpleand pink crystal necklace MIU MIU£160, pink bag MARC BY MARCJACOBS £310, gold ‘Marc’necklace MARC BY MARC JACOBS£60, purple and cream cuffROBERTO CAVALLI £430, purplering ROBERTO CAVALLI £160, jadecharm ring DIOR £130

from bottom: black andsilver bangle DIOR £185,brown and gold cuffROBERTO CAVALLI £430,logo cuff FENDI £125

photographer CLARE PRENTICEstylist BRITTA BURGERassistant RACHEL EDWARDSmen’s shoes photography TOM VANSCHELVEN

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His departure from Gucci was nothing short of high drama. Dressed in his signature black tuxedo, open necked white shirt and a gardenia in his buttonhole, Tom Ford

swept out of the building with dashing aplomb. After a few years building up his own Tom Ford brand, starting with eyewear and beauty, he has come back to his first love, designing first-rate menswear. Ford has always been a fan of the very best of British and Italian tailoring, and by some magical act of alchemy, he takes a clothes form that could so easily be staid and formal into another dimension. Clothes certainly do maketh the man and Tom Ford clothes maketh a man sexy, confident, and powerful. Tom is most definitely back exuding his very personal savoir faire through his menswear to make it some of the most desired men’s clothing in the world.

Ford has said that with the Tom Ford label, he is embracing exclusivity and turning his back on the super-brands and masstige that have dominated the fashion market since the mid 90s. Ironically while the high street is taking a deep breath as the credit crunch kicks in, the super lux brands are seeing customers wisely investing in high quality key pieces to create a personal look that is also fashion durable. But there is nothing sober or quiet about Tom’s new collection of menswear. Bold checks and big floppy bow ties hail a new era in male style. Tom is inviting a new generation to embrace good tailoring, and craftsmanship, maybe even wear smoking jackets - something that was the norm for our gentlemanly grandfathers is now a rejuvenated vogue.

Tom Ford’s success at Gucci boiled down to the fact that he understood sex appeal with simple elegant style. He doesn’t indulge in the theatrical extravagance of Parisian couture designers; his American heritage is the strong man of the movies. Tom Ford also knows that the play boy partying and revelry that scott Fitzgerald described in the Great Gatsby back in the roaring twenties has never died, but it is in dire need a solid injection of class and style. The look is sharp; it is devil may care varying from

Tom Ford changed the way men dress when he joined Gucci and gave men

a new found confidence to be bold and daring with their personal style.

Now in a perfect pairing, Flannels, having spear headed the move towards

luxury brands and dressing beyond fashion in the north of England, are

about to become the only outlet outside of London for Tom Ford Menswear.

New Age of Ford

testosterone enhancing double breast pin stripe to dandyish checked three piece suits, to camel and cashmere coats and fur trimming, to ski wear for that essential trip to Klosters, with chunky, manly knits, jeans and big furry hats. Tom has created a morning to bedtime wardrobe for the self assured, dashing rake, including outrageous jewel coloured dressing gowns and a range of men’s eveningwear including the perfect black tails and white tie that the archetypal playboy, The Great Gatsby himself would have been glad to wear.

starting a luxury brand from scratch is no small task. The menswear range has arisen thanks to his shrewd alliance with the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, synonymous with quality and craftsmanship. The design of the Ford menswear range takes the best from both English and Italian tailoring. Hand made shirts match suits and shoes that are made by master craftsmen in Naples with the finest quality leathers. The made to measure range can be mixed with his ready to wear clothes and luxury accessories, which are distributed globally in luxury fashion stores. The made to measure is only available in New York, however, the Tom Ford empire is growing. With stores as far flung as Baku, Azerbaijan opening this autumn, a new age of Ford has begun.

Tom Ford is available exclusively in the north of England at Flannels St Ann’s Square store, Manchester.

words Elizia Volkmann photography tom Van schElVEn

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www.kiton.it

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RaffaeleCarusoSartorial craftsmanship andclassic, minimalist suitdesigns make RaffaeleCaruso a choice withcharacter and beautifuldetail that will never runout of style. Elite tailor,Raffaele Caruso, firstopened a shop in Parma inthe Emilia-Romagna regionof Italy in 1958. Nowmanaged by his sons,Alberto and Nicola Caruso,the company is recognisedthe world over for therefined quality of itsproduction. The shop is stillthere – but now theRaffaele Caruso collectionis an internationalexpression of tailoringtradition that is constantlybeing renewed and restyledmaking the label amongstthe most recognisedcompanies worldwide formen’s suits.At Flannels, Raffaele Carusois ready to wear and madeto measure.left & right: suits byRAFFAELE CARUSO

The suit has beenreinvigorated in the last

few years. It isextremely fashionable

again; but now with topquality bespoke

tailoring and ready towear classics available

from both Europeanand British labels, the

choice at Flannels isquite breathtaking.

DEEPESTCUT

photographer ANTONY CROOKstylist CAMILLA POLE

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BoglioliWith their ‘neo-vintage’style, Boglioli enjoy theexperience of fourgenerations of Bogliolifamily tailors. Based inBrescia, Italy, their ‘Take itas it is’ slogan sewn intoeach lining of sums up thequality and style of thelabel. In his officialpresidential portrait,Nicolas Sarkozy was notdressed by Parisian tailors,but by Boglioli which hasbecome something of acult favourite amongParisians. PhilosopherBernard-Henri Lévy wearsBoglioli, and on theinternational scene,customers include BillClinton and Mick Jaggerand Flavio Briatore.Boglioli is available atFlannels.suit by BOGLIOLI

PradaSynonymous with luxury, aPrada suit wraps thewearer in its modern, slicklines. Prada havedeservedly built theirreputation as a luxurybrand over the decades;Italian through and throughbut they are not aboutshowy, one-up-manship.Their suits have a simple,clean, at ease withthemselves, perfection thatis often imitated. A Pradasuit is cut to perfection andextremely wearable. Asfunctional as they areiconic, they make men feelbetter about themselveswhen they wear one. Andthat surely is the point of agood suit.All by PRADA, watch from aselection at COTTRILLS

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KilgourKilgour’s provenance and styleis undisputed, with clientsincluding Daniel Craig, JamieRedknapp, Jude Law and RayWinstone. The appointment ofCarlo Brandelli as CreativeDirector in 2003 saw themodernisation of the brand’simage whilst staying true to itsunique 1882 bespoke heritage.Clean lines, razor-sharptailoring and a subtle colourpalette combine to provide thewearer with refined, moderntailoring infused with atimeless elegance.Kilgour’s debut on theinternational fashion stagetook place during Paris fashionweek in June this year. Theemergence of Kilgour as aninternational luxury goodsbrand continues to gatherpace as the name becomesincreasingly sought afteraround the world.Kilgour is available at Flannels.All by KILGOUR

Paul SmithThere is a definite Londonstrut to Paul Smith’s suits.They are quintessentiallyEnglish with a definitehint of mischief in thebrand which comes verymuch from the designerhimself. A staunch Britishicon, Nottingham basedSmith mixes hints of oldclassic British tailoringwith a bit of youth cultureswagger and a touch offlamboyant colour. AndPaul Smith himself is stillvery much the forcebehind the label and thismatters, with a personalnature and personality inthe quality and style ofeach suit.top: jacket, shirt and tie allby PAUL SMITH LONDON

bottom: jacket and shirt byPAUL SMITH LONDON

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FlannelsTailoringAt Flannels, we have builtour name around qualityand luxury, and above allwe select clothing thatstands for modern styleand meticulous attentionto detail. That’s why whenwe created our ownsuiting range, we weredetermined that it wouldbe a modern classic -creating a confident andtimeless look.Collaborating with one ofthe UK’s top tailoringcompanies, these suitslook as good as they feel.Confidence breedsconfidence, and the feeland fit of a suit is asimportant as how it looksto the outside world.Combining high qualityfabric and detailing, theFlannels Tailoring range isa premium choice for thestyle conscious whichrepresents exceptionalvalue.suit by FLANNELSTAILORING £495

www.alessandrogherardi.com

www.alessandrogherardi.com

direction AMECHI IHENACHOgrooming LYZ MARSDEN using ShuUemura skin carehair SASSOON CREATIVE TEAM |SASSOON.COMstyling assistant AMANDA EVANSmodels IVAN SILIC @ NEVS, PAULMITCHELL @ STORM

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hen the capricious Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty, rose from the waves

at Petra tou Romiou on the shores of southern cyprus, she would have known that the island in the south-eastern corner of the Mediterranean was just right for a goddess who demanded her fair share of pampering. cyprus’ Graeco-Roman bathing establishments with their ingenious heating systems and mosaic decorated pools would surely have captured the beautiful Olympian’s fancy. If the marketeer’s dream of a goddess is still around, and numerous mentions of her name – from the ‘Aphrodite class’ of cyprus Airways to Aphrodite resorts, Aphrodite wedding services and obviously Aphrodite cocktails – seem to suggest just that, she might sneak into one of the modern spas, or spend a night in the cool new boutique hotels that are cropping up along the coastlines in places once reserved for mass tourism.

The Londa Hotel’s stylish Honeymoon suite with its circular bed and spectacular sea-views would be particularly appropriate for the original fashionista, but the resort’s 67 other rooms and suites don’t lag far behind in the style stakes. The mix of immaculate minimal design and handmade finishings is the result of a multi million refurbishment and style makeover by Milanese design team caruzzo Rancati that earned the ‘couture’ hotel just outside of

Limassol the World travel Award for ‘cyprus’ Leading Hotel’ last year. swimming in the stunning pool only yards from the beach one can gaze out to sea or look up to the imposing 70s architecture that is the pinnacle of retro cool. And after a night at the hotel cocktail bar, there’s always the Londa spa with its massages and facials that restore, balance, stimulate, energise and detoxify all at once.

The ancient cypriots were very clued up on the revitalising effects of a spa treatment. Apart from the odd infidel flung from the rugged cliffs or the bloodthirsty gladiator games, one of the island’s most famous sites, Kourion, a few miles west of Limassol, is a perfect example of this ancient savoir vivre. Its cultured inhabitants spent whole days in the settlement’s baths, hopping from one pool to the next, and from steam room to massage area, when further north our ancestors were still covered in dirt. Alternatively they enjoyed a night out at Kourion’s magnificent amphitheatre, where there are performances to this day. Watching a show there is best with a bottle of wine, ideally the famous sweet commandaria, and a selection of food that, with cyprus’ olive groves, citrus orchards and vineyards, just keeps coming.

cypriots have always known how to enjoy life, but there is something else that catches the attention wandering through the ruins of Kourion. In Eustolios’ villa there are splendid mosaics depicting Apollo and the ancient

In a Cyprus once reserved for mass tourism, the modern Aphrodite might sneak into a modern spa, or spend a night or two in one of the cool new boutique hotels that are cropping up along the coastlines.

gods, but the wealthy man also commissioned artworks with obvious christian symbolism, just to be on the safe side; one of many signs that show how varied and troubled cyprus’ tangled history has been and, with the division of the island into Greek cypriot in the south and Turkish cypriot in the North, still is. Although not all intruders were welcome at the time, the marks they left – Greek and Roman temples and mosaics, UNEscO listed Byzantine churches, crusader castles – are the very reason for culture afficionados to come to cyprus.

Fashionistas who are tired of the riches of the past shouldn’t miss a trip to Limassol. creative geniuses can take their own dream shoe design to ‘sabrina’s shoes’ and it will be made within weeks, and Theodoros Theodorou’s tiny shop overflows with rare jewellery delights in gold and silver. The harbour town has recently seen the advent of cool bars in redeveloped old warehouses perfect for après-shopping relaxation. clubbing on the other hand is a relatively niche activity in cyprus where dinners often last into the morning. But anyone who’s not prepared to eat the night away, should head to Notes nightclub where the locals come out to play. Dancing is the domain of peacock males with a penchant for exaggerated moves, whereas the female disco experience is reduced to a few tentative pirouettes and throwing baskets full of carnations at the boys. Well worth watching! words Britta Burger

Theodoros TheodorouTheodorou Jewellery34c Anexartisias st.3040 Limassol Tel: 25369933

sabrina shoes202 st. Andrew’s st.cY 3304 LimassolcyprusTel: 253 52943

Thanks to classic collection Holidays (www.classic-collection.co.uk) who offer packages at the Londa Hotel that include return flights and private transfers.

classAphrodite

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AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELsFAsHION.cOM AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELsFAsHION.cOM

We all have an image in our head of the perfect chair (and the perfect shoe, car and house!), or if it’s not in our head already we would certainly recognise it when we see it. Of course everyone’s ideal is unique, so that is of course where design comes in. And for those of us who are lucky or inventive or prosperous enough, design lets us mould our environment to suit our

material and spiritual needs. From the spectacular to the mass-produced, from lifestyle to necessity, in an era where design is omni-present, it exudes into every area of our existence.

so what is iconic furniture? It is a must have – but it is not the must have of a magazine or a celebrity or a tv makeover show. It is My chair, My shoe, My icon. From the pure forms of Bauhaus or the sophistication of Art Deco; opulent theatrical drama to cool minimalist elegance to classic luxurious tradition. It could be anything, so it’s quite fascinating to find such a collection of iconic items in one place. stores like this are rare – as you walk around stocktons, you feel like Alice in Wonderland continually falling down a different rabbit hole to find a new world of furniture design. From spectacular crystal chandeliers to gigantic eight foot pure white cabinets to the lucid symmetry of transparent glass seating to lush leather sofas with rotating seating to constellations of geometric metallic cupboards, the range is truly vast, and I think everybody’s icon is here.

Lovingly compiled by this family of furniture connoisseurs over the last fifty years, the stockton’s collection is the best in contemporary and traditional design. You will find furniture’s international elite here - Desede using only the finest swiss and German leather in their seating; John sankey’s sumptuously deep loungers; Tom schneider’s ethically sourced materials and distinctive sense of movement; cor’s sculptural sofas. And there are many more unique examples of master craftsmanship - classics for sure, or dead-cert icons of the future. so, close your eyes and think of a chair. And odds are you’ll find it at stocktons.

Stocktons is at 140 Great Ancoats Street, Manchester M4 6DU or see www.stocktons.co.uk.

EvERYBODY

From spectacular crystal chandeliers to the lucid symmetry of transparent glass seating to constellations of geometric metallic cupboards, the range is truly vast, and I think everybody’s icon is here at Stocktons.

Icon

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For legal information and terms and conditions, please visit www.flannelsfashion.com.

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www.flannelsfashion.comis a virtual boutique of multi-brandonline fashion, offering the style-savvy exactly what he or shewants – unprecedented access toFlannels hottest looks of theseason from international luxurylabels via express delivery.Featuring a capsule of theFlannels collections, there arehundreds of products availableonline with new lines being addedevery week. So you can shoponline knowing you are looking atthe best brands and latest trends,with Flannels impeccable service.

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1 4 0 G r e a t A n c o a t s S t r e e t , M a n c h e s t e r M 4 6 D U T e l : 0 1 6 1 2 7 3 5 3 3 1 E s t a b l i s h e d 1 9 5 3

the fashion house of furniture

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