The Barge - January 2012

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The BargeJanuary 2012 - A.S. XLVI

The Newsletter of the Barony of Three Rivers

In Th is Issue:• Turn Shoes from the 11th - 12th

Century• Details on Crown Tournament

“Arms and Costume of a Saxon Military Chief ” / Charles Knight

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Baron and BaronessBaron Ravasz Janos and Baroness Kajsa

NikulasdotterJeff Lewis and Susan Nicholson

[email protected] / [email protected]

SeneschalAldred Lyccidfelth

Paul [email protected]

ChatelaineAriadne Karbonopsina

[email protected]

Minister of Youth

*** OPEN ***[email protected]

Gold KeyGwendolyn Verch

MorgaineGwendolyn Sweezey

[email protected]

Demo Coordinator

Brummbar von SchwarzbergGary Gutzman

[email protected]

HeraldAnnora Reyner

Ariel [email protected]

Minister of Arts & Sciences

Luckie of Falcon’s KeepJennifer Semsar

[email protected]

Baronial Librarian

Lucia Octavio da SienaStarr Mahoney

[email protected]

Curia Baronis

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Middle Eastern DanceSecond Thursday of the month at 7 PM.What: Th is is an informal Middle Eastern (belly) dance teaching session for any skill level. No experience is necessary. Dances will be taught.Where: Baronial Meeting Site.Contact: Gwendolyn Verch Morgaine

SundayArmoring with GrimwulfSunday afternoons and evenings by appointment. Please call ahead.What: Teaching and assisting for armoring and leatherwork, etc. Armoring is a dirty process, so don’t wear your good clothes. Materials are relatively inexpensive, but not free. I ask only that you pay for what you consume. Tipping is appreciated.Where: 424 Hazelgreen Drive St. Louis, MO 63119Contact: Grimwulf Harland, 314-359-7163; please email or call ahead.

Weekly Activities

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Weekly ActivitiesThursday

Weekly Populace Meeting, A&S Class, Fighter PracticeThursdays, 6:00 PM; Site opens at 6:00 PM; meeting hall and indoor fighter practice opens at 7:00 PM .What: Business meeting for the Baronial populace. All are welcome and the meeting is open to the public. A weekly A&S class is held in conjunction with the meeting. Contact the A&S minister for more information or to schedule a class. Fighter practice includes SCA combat practice and instruction. Th e fi ghter practice on the last Th ursday of each month is oriented especially toward newcomers.Where: Olivette Community Center, 9723 Grandview Drive, Olivette, MO; SCA meets in Room 8 and the gym, in the northwest wing of the Community Center.Contact: Aldred Lyccidfelth, 314-324-1112 (meeting); Luckie of Falcon’s Keep (A&S class); Duncan Eardstapa (fi ghter practice)

Site Dinner FundraiserFirst Thursday of the month; dinner starts being served around 7:00 PM and is open until at least 9:00 PM (assuming food is still available).What: Th is is a dinner that we hold on the fi rst Th ursday of every month at the weekly Baronial meeting. It raises money to help pay for our meeting site and has proven to be an anticipated social evening as well. Every month a diff erent set of volunteers supplies a delicious home-cooked meal. We sell those meals for donations of $5 (or less as suits your budget. We’re fl exible.) We’re also willing to just sell a dessert or a side dish if that’s all you want.Where: Baronial Meeting Site, in the Gymnasium and KitchenContact: Slá ine ní Chiará in, 314-918-1062

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Th is is the January 2012 issue of the Th e Barge, a publication of the Barony of Th ree Rivers of the Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. (SCA, Inc.). Th e Barge is available from Michael Kennedy (Julian Ó Néill) at [email protected] or at 135 Venice Circle, Saint Charles, Missouri, 63304. It is not a corporate publication of SCA, Inc., and does not delineate SCA, Inc. policies.

Copyright © 2012 Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. For information on reprinting photographs, articles, or artwork from this publication, please contact the Chronicler, who will assist you in contacting the original creator of the piece. Please respect the legal rights of our contributors.

Colophon:

Th is publication was made with Adobe InDesign CS 5.5 soft ware using Minion Pro, Old English Text MT, Trajan Pro, Lucidia Bright, and Black Chancery fonts.Th e front cover graphic is from Charles Knight’s “Old England: A Pictorial Museum,” published in 1845. Republished online at http://www.fromoldbooks.org/. Used with permission.Th e front cover ivy design is from W. R. Tymms’ “Th e Arts of Illuminating As Practised in Europe from the Earliest Times,” published in 1860. Republished online at http://www.fromoldbooks.org/. Used with permission.

ExchequerRichard de Bleys

Richard [email protected]

Knights MarshalDuncan Fearmac

MacLeodGary Phillips

[email protected]

Archer MarshalEirik Th orkelsson

Patrick [email protected]

ChroniclerJulian Ó Néill

Michael [email protected]

WebministerAleksei Rusinovich

Kent [email protected]

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Greetings Fair Barony and welcome to the New Year.

Th ough many may take advantage of the winter to rest by the fi re, there is no time to waste here in Th ree Rivers. Barely has the holiday season ended than we must prepare halls and feast. Th eir Royal Majesties Ostwald and Kaye are traveling hence and will arrive Jan 14th to hold the next Crown Tournament. Please take time to help. If you do not already have an assigned duty, there will still be pre-cooks to be done, and equipment to prepare and haul. On the day of the event large numbers of people to help set-up, work during the day, and clean up the site are all necessary. Th e adage many hands make light work, alas, still rings true. We hope to see you all there, as the spectacle of a Crown Tourney is irresistible, and we are trying a new site known as the Cardinal Rigali Center.

Aft er TRM and the rest of Calontir have all returned to their homes, these short days of winter are still a good time to prepare for our next event here in Th ree Rivers. Chieft ains on Feb 25this when our “de-vestiture” is planned. Mistress Slá ine and His Lordship Josef have been selected by TRM as our replacements and preparations will need to be made for their investiture. In addition to their personal preparations and needs, now is the time to look to your own homes and make sure all Baronial goods are returned to storage and larder to be repaired and accounted for. We would like to hand to our successors a Barony is good working order, shining and bright! Just like the days ahead.

We wish you all a healthy, prosperous, and inspiring New Year!

Baron Ravasz Janos

Baroness Kajsa Nikulasdotter

A Letter from Their Excellencies Three Rivers

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Weekly ActivitiesMonday

Officers MeetingFirst and third Mondays of the Month at 7:00 PM.What: Th is is where the business of running the barony is decided. Offi cers meeting is open to anyone who would like to attend. If you are thinking of running an event or submitting a bid, you are encouraged to talk to the offi cers or attend an offi cers meeting.Where: 9058 Grant Farm Trail, Crestwood, MOContact: Ravasz and Kajsa, 314-842-1277

TuesdayGryphon’s Mark Contact Group MeetingSecond Tuesday of the month at 6:30 PM.What: General meeting for the St. Charles contact group, Gryphon’s Mark.Where: Home of Wayne of the Heights, 17 Snow Hill Drive, St. Peters, MOContact: Wayne of the Heights, 636-397-1323 or 314-517-4516

Gryphon’s Mark Activities NightFourth Tuesday of the month at 6:30 PM.What: Teaching, assisting, and companionship for assorted projects. Call ahead to fi nd out about the night’s activitiesWhere: Home of Wayne of the Heights, 17 Snow Hill Drive, St. Peters, MOContact: Wayne of the Heights, 636-397-1323 or 314-517-4516

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The Barony of Three Rivers presents

The Kingdom of Calontir

57th

Crown Tournament

Saturday, January 14, 2012Location:Cardinal Rigali Center20 Archbishop May DriveSaint Louis, MO 63119

Site opens at 8 AM and closes at 10 PM.

Site Fee:Adult: $10.00Feast: $10.00Children (6-17): $5.00Children (≤5): FreeFamily Cap (does not include NMS): $30.00

Fighting Tournament:One of the most important tasks set before the Crown is the establishment of a secure line of succession, thus assuring the peaceful transition of power in the event of the untimely demise of our Beloved King and Queen. Th e ancient and noble traditions of our Society call for the Successors to be chosen by Combat, and the Crown Tournament is the chosen vehicle for this Rite.

Arts and Sciences Activities• Competition for the best largess in any medium (to be donated to TRM aft er judging).• Competition for best household item in any medium.• Aft ernoon ball to be held between morning and evening court.

Dance Set List

Set One• Ly Bens Distonys• Gelosia• My Lady Cullen• Villanella• Hyde Park• Petit RiensSet Two• Jenny Pluck Pears• Black Alman• Gracca Amorosa• Heart’s Ease• Anello• Confesse

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A Letter from the Chronicler of Three RiversGreetings unto the populace of Th ree Rivers,

Happy New Year and welcome to 2012! Th e Winter Holiday season is now over and it is now time to get back into the SCA event season. Th e next couple of months promises to be very busy with two major local events occurring in the Th ree Rivers area.

Crown Tournament starts off the year on January 14th. Th e 57th edition of Crown Tournament will be held at the Cardinal Rigali Center in Shrewsbury. Th e event will feature multiple arts and sciences events besides the main heavy fi ghting championship. Th ere will be an arts and sciences competition for the best largess in any medium and the best household item in any medium. Th e largess items will be donated at the evening court. Th ere will also be a feast and an aft ernoon ball held between morning and evening courts.

Chieft ains is also on the horizon for February 24th. Th e Baronial Investiture of Mistress Slá ine ní Chiará in and HL Josef von Rothenbur will also be held at this event. Please watch Th e Barge and other news outlets for developments on this exciting event.

If you have any questions, concerns, or articles for Th e Barge, please contact me at [email protected]. I will follow up as soon as possible.

Once again, thank you for supporting Th e Barge and Happy New Year!

In service,

Julian Ó Néill

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Turn Shoes from 11th - 12th Century: A Brief History and Construction

By Comyn Hrothwyn af Guilden AcumenIntroductionTh is article will give the reader a brief overview of 12th Century shoe construction and history. Th e turn shoe pattern selected was worn mostly by upper class English, French, and Germans but has the added bonus of being deceptively simple to create for the novice leatherworker. Th is article assumes a basic level of skill with common leatherworking tools such as an awl, needle, and thread.

Background Overview“Turn shoe” describes a shoe sewn together while inside out. When completed, the shoe is literally “turned” to place the outside seams inside of the shoe prior to wearing. Th ey are similar to a soft leather moccasin – type slipper without the hard sole or arch support of modern footwear. Styles have been excavated that were both below the ankle and slightly above with a rounded or pointed toe. Th ey were speculated to have been sewn with wax coated plaited linen thread using a boar-bristle as a needle. Due to decay no extant thread examples have been found. Vegetable tanned cattle, sheep or goat leather dyed with an iron oxide based liquid was the preferred medium. Decoration was in various ways, such as embroidery, cut-outs, or skiving (removing the very top layer of leather to leave the rough part exposed).

Pattern and Construction BackgroundTh is pattern will be fairly simple for time and skill constraints. It consists of three major pieces – the sole, the vamp and the back quarter which are sewn together to comprise the major parts of the shoe. Historically the vamp and quarter were joined into one upper piece. Other additional minor pieces adapt the fi t of the shoe and add stability.

Sole – In the early 12th century most soles were an elliptical shape with rounded toe area, not imitating an exact foot shape. Th ere’s a slight indentation along the middle of the foot corresponding to the arch area. More foot shaped soles and slightly pointed tips grew more popular towards the century’s end. Soles were normally made of 8oz cattle leather,

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ReferencesBooks• Grew and Neergaard, 1988, Shoes and Pattens (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London), (Boydell Press, Woodbridge) ISBN: 0-85115-838-2• Goubitz, Van Driel-Murray, and Groenman-Van Waateringe, 2007, Stepping Th rough Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times Until 1800 (Stichting Promotie Archeologie) ISBN-10: 9089320024 or ISBN-13: 978-9089320025• Mould, Carlisle, and Cameron, 2003, Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York, (Bowes Morrell House) ISBN: 1-902771-36-2Websites• Carlson, M., 2004 “Footwear of the Middle Ages”• Jones , Elizabeth [Maestra Damiana Illaria d’Onde], 2002, “A Beginner’s Addendum to Making Turn Shoes”• Austwick, Martin, “Making Medieval Shoes”• Beatson, Peter, “Shoe from Parliament St., York Construction Notes”


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you will notice it is very fl oppy and has a strange form. Th is is normal for this stage. Put it on your foot wet to form it. You will probably need to trim the leather around the top of your foot and slit the center of the vamp about 2 1/2 inches down the top of your foot; using a pair of sharp scissors cut away the leather in a semi-circle from one side seam to the other. You should end up with something that looks not too dissimilar to the picture below of the vamp. Let the shoe dry on your foot till the leather is just damp and then remove it to fi nish stitching up the sides with an overlapping seam. If you are adventurous, you might attempt the butt stitch however that stitch is best performed when the shoe is inside out. You will punch lacing holes along the vamp slit to help the shoe fi t better aft er you have sewn it together and turned it. To decorate your shoe, you may want to whip stitch around the top of it for a more fi nished look.


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for durability, fl esh side up towards the foot bed.

Upper (Vamp and Back Quarter) - By the 12th Century, patterns had evolved for uppers consolidating into a single piece. Th is practice made practical use of leather with little waste, placed a solitary seam inside the area of the foot’s arch and produced a better fi t. Th e upper did not fi t snugly around the shoe’s throat and was generally reinforced with a cord or a top band. It could be laced along the inside seam or the top of the instep for a better fi t. Our pattern will consist of two pieces for ease of construction but can easily adapt later to a more historically correct form.

Additional Pieces (Heel stiff ener and Clumps) – Small leather stiff eners were sewn into the heel area to reinforce it, emulating the triangular sole backs of the earlier Viking shoe. 12th century heel stiff eners were triangular or semi circular sewn with a binding stitch separately into place without breaking through the outside surface of the shoe. “Clumps” were additional soles that were tunnel stitched onto the existing sole aft er it wore through to extend the lifespan of the shoe.

Seams - Th ree main types were consistently used in 12th Century shoe construction. Stitch images are borrowed from Shoe from Parliament St., York Construction Notes by Peter Beatson.

• Butt Stitch - used commonly on uppers to sew main side seam and attach inserts.


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• Flesh-edge Stitch - used to attach soles to uppers.

• Binding stitch - used to attach pieces such as heel stiff eners, upper edge reinforcement cords, or top bands (sewn to the top edge of the shoe instead of reinforcement cords). Th e stitch doesn’t penetrate the leather completely, therefore is invisible from the outside.

PatterningTh is pattern consists of three major pieces for expediency – the sole, the vamp and the back quarter which sewn together comprise the major parts of the shoe. To start this project you will need the following materials:


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ConstructionNow we put it all together with a fl esh-edge seam. On the rough side of your sole, mark a line 3/8 inch from the edge, all the way round to act as a guide when piercing the sole before stitching. Use your fork as a spacing guide. Take ~ 18 inches of linen thread and coat with beeswax. Th read a needle onto each end of the thread and grab your awl. Starting just at one side of the front center point of the shoe pierce through the sole into the fl at and out through the edge and through the upper leather’s stitch hole (see cross section from Flesh-edge stitch below). Push one of the needles through these two holes and even out the thread so you don’t run out of one side before the other.

Make another hole (through both pieces of leather) with the awl on the other side of the point of the sole and thread one of the needles through leaving plenty of slack. Push the point of the other needle in the opposite direction through this hole and then pull some of the thread back (from the fi rst needle). Th is ensures that the second needle does not pierce the fi rst thread, allowing the stitches to be pulled tight from both sides. If you run out of thread then backstitch a couple of stitches. Start from the same hole with a new length and don’t forget to wax it.

Once you have successfully stitched up both of the side seams, you are ready to sew the heel stiff ener onto the center of the back quarter. Sew it about 1/2 inches from the edge in the center back of your shoe. Now sew the quarter to the sole in the same manner as the vamp, starting in the center of the sole and working around both sides. Backstitch where the sides overlap a couple of times for strength.

Now you are ready to turn the shoe. To soft en the leather, soak it in warm (NOT hot) water until it has completely stopped bubbling. Th is will make the leather supple enough to turn right side out. Once your shoe is turned

Vamp →


← Sole

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Vamp and Back Quarter - Our pattern will consist of two pieces for ease of construction but can easily adapt later to a more historically correct form. Th e vamp covers the front of your foot and the quarter wraps around the back of your heel. Begin by draping the canvas over the top of your foot with about 6 inches curled up the front of your leg. Slice the curled fabric down to your instep. Draw around the top of your ankle and then extend the line down to the fl oor at your instep area. Draw along your foot on the fabric on the fl oor. Use the tape measure to measure from the fl oor to your mark around your ankle and add an inch. Th is is the height of your quarter. Measure around the back of your foot to the marks you made to the fl oor from your instep and add 2 inches to your measurement. Th is is the length of your quarter. Take your fabric vamp and add an inch around the front area for a seam allowance. Cut out the vamp and the quarter from the fabric. Place your pattern on the smooth side of your 5-6oz leather (non-fl esh side) and draw carefully around your pattern. Cut out with scissors and punch holes every 1/16 inch apart, 1/8 inch from the edge of the leather along 3 sides on the vamp. Do not punch the side along your ankle. Repeat the process on the bottom of the quarter. A dinner fork can give you proper stitch hole spacing. Your result should look like this:

Heel stiff ener – 12th century heel stiff eners (or counters as they are also described) were triangular or semi circular pieces sewn with a binding stitch separately into place without breaking through the outside surface of the shoe. Your stiff ener should be about 2 1/2 inches wide and 1 1/2 inches tall to adequately hold your heel from sliding out of your shoe. Stiff eners were applied with the binding stitch to center back of the heel.


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• 2 sq ft canvas or non-stretchy fabric• Sharpie™ marker• Manila folders• measuring tape• ruler• heavy weight scissors• straight edge knife• linen thread• a standard fork• sharp straight stabbing awl• bee’s wax• ~8oz cattle leather for soles• blunt tipped needles (tapestry needles will work easiest)• sharp tipped needles (embroidery or sharps needles will work easiest)• 5 - 6oz leather (chrome-tanned is easiest for beginners)

Sole – Stand in the center of a Manila folder (or a heavy piece of paper at least 3 inches larger than your foot all around your foot). Draw an outline around your foot with the pencil perpendicular to the paper. Mark the area of your instep on either side of your foot on your outline as well as the center front and back. Add 1/8 inch around your outline along the sides and heel. Add about 1/2 inch to the toe area in front. If you wish a pointed toe, this is where you want to add it. Cut the foot-shape out of the paper. Place pattern on your 8oz leather and use the straight edge knife to cut out. Th e result should appear like this:


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The Barge - January 2012

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Transcript of The Barge - January 2012