Terrazzo Restoration

Copyright 2012 ©, Floor Medix™ (Not to be copied or distributed without written permission) Rev 14

TERRAZZO RESTORATION GUIDE

727-290-5661

Typical condition before floor removal

Typical result after restoration


INDEX

Index…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………2

FREE DEMO……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….3

Before we start………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….3

WARNING: Do not crystallize a Terrazzo Floor (It can damage the floor)

WARNING: Do not pull up nails or remove tact strip (It can damage a floor)

Quoting process…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………6

Fast quote

Time line……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………6

How long does it take? (3-8 days depending on size)

Floor maintenance ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………6

How to take care of your Terrazzo floor

Floor Protection ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..7

Consolideck LS: Scratch resistance is called densification

LS Guard: Stain resistance

The restoration process: (The 7 different methods contractors use)….…………………………………..11

1 Floor Medix process

Different processes contractors may offer (With pros and cons of each)…………………………………12

2 Strip and wax

3 Strip, Bleach and wax

4 Etch, Crystallize and Burnish 5 Strip, crystallize and buff

6 Grind then powder polish

7 Grind only

Article: Restoration/ Refinishing by The Marble Institute of America……………………………………..14 Your floors current condition..………......………………………………………………………………………………….17

Stain removal

Carpet and Tile Removal

Tact Strip removal

Repairing Chips and holes ……………………………………………………………………………………………………….18

NTMA/ Historic Society approved Procedure for repairing holes or cracks in Terrazzo

The Final look of your new floor ………………………………………………………………………………………………20

Before and after Pictures

Materials …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………22

Cleanup……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..…….22

Cost…..…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….….………..….22

Room measurements……………………………………………………………………………………………………….………23


FREE DEMO We know how confusing the restoration process can be. Different companies use as many as 7 different methods to clean or restore Terrazzo. We strongly recommend you ask questions when getting quotes from a variety of companies. We are happy to come to your home and do a FREE demo. We come to your home and restore a 4 foot by 4 foot section so you can see exactly what you are going to get as a finished product. There is no risk and no cost. Please be very careful, the 7 different methods have very different costs and results. If your not sure, ask the contractor to come do a demo right next to the Floor Medix demo. This way you can directly compare and make a good decision about your investment. This package describes each of the 7 different methods in detail and gives the pros and cons of each. Floor Medix may ask for an additional fee for removing any damage caused by another companies demo process. This is especially true in removing demos that used crystallization (Crystallization is also called vitrification). Floor Medix and every pro we know do not consider crystallization a valid process for Terrazzo. This is used by individuals without grinding equipment or training in Terrazzo restoration. Anyone with a rented buffer, a steel wool pad and a spray bottle can do crystallization. We do not recommend paying much money for crystallization since it must be repeated every few years.

Before we start

WARNING: Do not crystallize a Terrazzo Floor

You may encounter businesses who offer re-crystallization of your Terrazzo floor. This is where they strip the floor then use a steel wool or fiber hair pad to polish the floor with a sprayed on chemical. This chemical chemically alters marble. Our view is that this process can destroy Terrazzo and is NEVER used by the pros. Others use it as a quick and cheap way to clean and shine a floor. It’s temporary and does not last 7-10 years like grinding does. The reason is that, re-crystallization seals the marble chips and prevents the floor from breathing. Over time the marble starts to degrade and essentially delaminate and break apart. It takes 2-3 years but it will break down. The only fix is to redo the same process again. That’s very expensive. Here is an excerpt from a neutral party web site supporting this argument.

http://www.countertopspecialty.com/recrystallization-vs-standard-marble-polishing.html

Here is an excerpt from the above website. The woman is asking an expert

questions about re-crystallization also known as vitrification:

QUESTION:

Woman: Are you familiar with the process of marbleizing also called crystallizing for marble polishing?

They've used it in Florida and Italy for over 20 years and it seems fabulous.

I had white marble in my kitchen in Florida (not something I would have considered on my own for the obvious reasons). They

apply a chemical that bonds with the marble and creates a lustrous to shiny surface that is easily renewed.

If acid gets on the marble and marks it, you just buff on more chemical and voila, it's new again! I have no idea why other

places don't use it.

http://www.countertopspecialty.com/recrystallization-vs-standard-marble-polishing.html


ANSWER:

Expert: Susan, I can appreciate that you think it is "fabulous" probably because it makes the Terrazzo or Marble shiny. But more people don't do it (and most pros don't) because crystallization creates problems (sometimes expensive nightmare problems) not found with standard marble polishing. It's just an inferior method. Here's why: Crystallization can ruin your marble, it takes longer and costs more without ANY benefit over standard marble polishing. It creates a problematic hard chemical shell on your marble trapping acids (used in the process) in the marble. It will make the marble shiny and it seems this is the "proof". But the shell also keeps the marble from breathing properly, which could lead to your marble simply falling apart. So, understand once you crystallize you no longer have a "marble" surface. It becomes a "chemically manufactured" surface. Traditional, proven methods for marble cleaning, care and marble repair can no longer be used. You are stuck having to maintain the chemicalized surface. Yes, I know it's been around for a while, but that doesn't make it good or beneficial. Agent Orange has been around a long time too. The people that have it done simply don't know any better (no reason they or you should of course) and get sold by the sales pitch which seems fine and dandy. There are also problems with formula compatibility. Example: You have your floor crystallized then a couple three years later when this chemical crust that isn't as durable as marble starts to loose its appearance, you have it crystallized again only the first guy who did it is out of business or not available so you go with someone else who uses a different formula. Well... his formula may not work with the first formula and the crust will have to be removed (grinding it away just like standard re-polishing) before the new formula can be applied. Just useless nonsense. There are proponents out there and the sales literature makes it seem like it's the latest greatest thing, but the main reason they like it is because it requires very little experience or knowledge of marble. Traditional marble polishing requires real skill, knowledge and experience.... the art of a true craftsman. Crystallization requires virtually no skill... no more than cleaning a carpet, so from a business standpoint it's simply easier and cheaper to find/train technicians. So, marble crystallization is easier to perform. But if they screw it up while crystallizing.... your marble may be damaged. This will NEVER happen with standard marble polishing. You can always fix a mistake with re-polishing, you never change the chemical or physical nature of the stone and it makes it nice and shiny too. So ask yourself... do you want a craftsman who knows how to properly maintain your marble in optimum condition over it's entire life.... or just anyone capable of pushing a machine around? Also, if you etch polished marble... a normally re-finished marble... all you need to do is to properly apply a good marble polishing product like ETCH REMOVER / Marble Polishing Paste and viola... it is gone... all shiny again. So, even on this point there is no advantage to crystallization.

http://www.countertopspecialty.com/marble-repair.html

http://store.countertopspecialty.com/Polishes-c7/


If my arguments aren't enough to dissuade you from doing it again in your new home, then consider that no factory in the world uses crystallization as a method to "polish" the stone. They all use standard grinding and friction to polish marble and make it shiny. It's simply the best way.

WARNING: Do not pull up or remove tact strip (It can damage the floor)

When restoring Terrazzo, many times carpet is removed and tact strip remains on the floor. Do not pull up the nails. Pulling up the nails will create chips and craters as shown below. The proper method is to cut them off flush with the floor, grind them below the surface and color match and fill the hole. There are different methods to fix these holes including grout, colored epoxy and the most advance method is to use Marble chips in a tinted binder that matches the floor.


Example stones used to match Terrazzo floor damage

Quoting process

We can quote on premises or from reasonable pictures emailed to us. Time line

How long does it take? The process takes 3-8 business days depending on the size of the area.

Floor Maintenance

1. Initial Care o Terrazzo flooring is made with chips of marble, granite or glass and bound together with cement. Because of

its porous nature, the cement part of terrazzo is easily penetrated and can become stained. It is important to

apply two coats of a water-based, non-slip sealer after installation. The sealer is absorbed and helps reduce

staining.(NOT A WAX TOPICAL COATING)

Spills and Dirt Concerns

o If left unattended, spills can damage the surface. Spills with harsh cleaners, carbonated drinks, fruit juices or

pet accidents can etch the surface if not wiped up immediately. High-traffic areas are also susceptible to

damage. The dirt and soil that is tracked in can easily scratch terrazzo. Using mats inside and outside

entryways helps to minimize the damage.

Regular Maintenance

o Terrazzo floors require daily dust mopping with a dry, non-treated mop to pick up dust, cut down on soil

buildup and scratches. Depending on the amount of foot traffic, occasional mopping is necessary. Mop the

floors with a cleaner specifically made for terrazzo; regular household cleaners can damage the surface.

For areas with stubborn stains or dirt, an electric scrubber works well. Polishing terrazzo

periodically helps maintain its sheen.


Floor protection: Densification is a great tool to protect your floor. What it does is put a sealer and hardner in the

cement pores of your floor. It has no effect on marble at all. Remember crystallization affects marble where

densification affects the pores of the cement binder holding the marble chips. This product is nothing like wax. It

does not lay on top of your surface. It fills in the pores so bad things like dirt and grease cannot fill in the pores.

That’s how it keeps the floor cleaner. Because it hardens while it is down in the pores allows the product to extend

the life of Terrazzo. It keeps foot traffic from wearing the cement down. This product increases durability, shine and

scratch resistant. These are not topical waxes. These are pore penetrating treatments that do not need

maintenance like acrylic or urethane waxes. They have a great deal of benefits and are highly recommended and

economical. They can extend the life or your Terrazzo for years as well as resist all types of stains. They are used in

schools, hospitals, gyms, homes, office buildings and many others. A product brochure is found on the following

pages.

Densification Video (Long term durability)

a. See video at (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqbyuLIK4MU) Copy link or click

LS Guard Video (Stain and scratch resistance)

a. See video at (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqbyuLIK4MU) Copy link or click

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqbyuLIK4MU



The Floor Medix Process

Here is our process (Other process options along with pros and cons follow our process description)

Steps 1. Remove tact strip, nails 2. Remove Floors (OPTIONAL COST) (1)-3 (27) 3. Proprietary 4. Tape off all walls, floor boards and appliances (OPTIONAL COST) (2)-2(6) 5. 1st grinding D-80 floor (4)-1(5) 6. Proprietary 7. Densification (OPTION) Hardens floor, improves durability by 500%. Improves grinding that follows. 1 hour set(5)-1(5)

a. See video at (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqbyuLIK4MU) Copy link or click 8. Grind 3-200 resin bond diamonds(5)-2(7) 9. Grind 4 400 grit diamond (6)-1(3) 10. Grind 5 800 grit diamond (6)-1(3) 11. Proprietary 12. Grind 1500 13. Proprietary 14. Proprietary 15. LS Guard (Not a wax, this prevents stains and pulls up shine) (OPTIONAL COST)(5)-1(3)

a. See video at (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqbyuLIK4MU) Copy link or click 16. Proprietary 17. Disposal of floors (OPTIONAL COST) than (7)-2(3) 18. Cleanup(8)-1(3)

WARNING: Do not allow this paint stripper to be used to clean your floor! More than 12 deaths have been

documented using large quantities of this chemical indoors . It is not meant for cleaning floors. There are some individuals who will put as many as 30 gallons of this on a terrazzo floor. This is dangerous for the contractor and the homeowner (liability), especially if the contractor crystallizes the floor. (18mg/L can kill a human being). In situations where the process has been started, be sure to comply with OSHA and the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) regarding air quality, exposure and blood levels. Product is ranked in top 30% of all 286 toxic substances. Higher than uranium and plutonium at high exposure levels.

THIS IS NOT MEANT FOR STAIN REMOVAL

BENEFITS of the Floor Medix Process Our process lasts for 7-10 years (not 3 to 24 months)

Requires little maintenance




Resists stains

Creates a 500% harder wear resistant surface

Resists scratches

Does not require yearly stripping, spray buffing, re-burnishing or rewaxing

Does not require the process to be repeated every 2-3 years as does crystallization

Is the best, most developed process anywhere.

Here are variations other contractors use:

1) Strip and wax

Pros: Quick, cheap and takes less time but is definitely an improvement.

Cons: Many stains usually remain. Ongoing maintenance is needed.

2) Strip, Bleach (With Sallys hair developer called 40 or 50 Hair developer. It is 12% Hydrogen Peroxide) and wax

Pros: Lower cost than grinding. Good for investment properties or families with lots of kids and pets. The Hydrogen Peroxide works good for moderate stain removal and is non toxic.

Cons: Usually leaves some stains behind.

3) Deep stain removal, Crystallize and Burnish (DO DON’T USE PAINT STRIPPER FOR THIS STEP!!!)

Pros: We do not recommend crystallization, however the EZ etch whitener is highly effective. Safe on Terrazzo materials. Reduces grind time.

Cons: Materials costs run higher. Often takes 20+ gallons to do a typical 1,400 sq foot house. Has a reasonable semi gloss finish. Gets 90% + of floor cleaned.

4) Strip, crystallize and buff or burnish

Pros: Speed is better, quick clean and shiny

Cons: Long term damage to floor. Marble can delaminate over time. This process is temporary and must be redone every few years. Is far more expensive in the long run since its shine is temporary. No cost advantage (NEVER EVER CRYSTALLIZE!).

5) Grind then powder polish

Pros: Good look and even look. There is minimal if any staining left behind.

Cons: Essentially the same as grind only except that some contractors feel there is a higher shine when powders are not used. Does not have the advantages of densification and protection of a sealer. Densification hardens the pores and makes the surface resist scratches and stains (highly recommended). Will not have the same shine as with burnishing. Floor is unprotected from simple spills that can etch the floor permanently such as milk, juice wines etc.. Floor is not abrasion resistant.

6) Grind only

Pros: High quality. Looks new and is considered near show room quality. Great for those who want to bring back the original look and a shine to the floor.

Cons: Does not always remove 100% of stains. Stain removal is almost always needed. Higher cost. Takes 3-8 days due to the considerable time it takes to grind the floor. Does not have the advantages of densification and protection of a sealer. Densification hardens the pores and makes the surface resist scratches and stains (highly recommended). Does not benefit from the high shine provided by burnishing a densified floor. Will not have the same shine as with burnishing. Floor is unprotected from simple spills that can etch the floor permanently such as milk, juice wines etc..

Sealer protects pores and makes the surface resist stains (highly recommended).

Here is an article from the Marble Institute of America that explains the entire grinding process in detail as well as many other issues.


Restoration/ Refinishing by The Marble Institute of America 1.0 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Basic Methods. The ancient Greeks and Romans used crushed salt, sand, and fibers to grind, hone, and polish stone. Today,we use diamonds and specially formulated polishing powders to accomplish the same tasks, yet the fundamentals remain the same. 1.2 The fundamental goal of restoring stone is to replicate the look and feel of the newly installed material. This can involve several different processes. In these processes, the field technician is attempting to perform tasks that were originally completed in a factory setting, using high powered, stationary machinery without the encumbrances of adjacent building components, scaffolding, weather, etc. Execution of the intended tasks using portable tools in a field setting are normally the domain of highly trained and skilled mechanics. 1.3 The three basic steps in the stone refinishing process are still grinding, honing, and polishing. When a stone surface is rough and uneven, it may require grinding. If a stone needs to be smoothed, honing may be all that’s necessary. To produce a shiny surface on stone, polishing will accomplish the task. Each of these steps can be performed alone or in combination with one another. The following section defines these steps. 2.0 GRINDING, HONING, AND POLISHING 2.1 Grinding is the process by which a stone’s surface is aggressively sanded to remove large stocks of material. This process is usually recommended, for example, when stone tiles are uneven. Lippage is the term given to describe stone tiles that have raised, uneven edges. 2.1.1 Grinding is recommended when the lippage exceeds 1/32", or if a completely flat floor is specified. 2.1.2 There are some very good reasons for grinding a stone floor flat. A flat floor is easier to maintain because there is no lippage where dirt can accumulate. The grinding process, if performed correctly, will also eliminate depressed grout joints—the grout will be even with the tile's surface so that dirt and grime are not deposited in the recessed joint.. A completely flat floor also gives the illusion of being monolithic (consisting of a single stone), and can enhance safety by reducing potential tripping hazards. 2.1.3 However, there are also some disadvantages to grinding. It is very time-consuming and expensive. With some hard stones, like granite, it can take an entire day to grind 50 square feet, depending on the type of equipment used. The grinding process is very messy. A large amount of water is needed to grind a stone floor, and it produces a heavy slurry of stone and water. If adjacent areas such as carpet, wallpaper, baseboards, etc., are not protected properly, water damage may occur. 2.1.4 A stone floor does not necessarily have to be ground to remove scratches. A skilled craftsman can repair it without grinding. Before deciding on grinding, all the above considerations must be carefully weighed. 2.2 Honing is the process of smoothing stone with the use of abrasives. Although not as aggressive as grinding, it does require the use of water, and can also be quite messy. Honing is performed to remove scratches, and will not remove lippage. It can, however, round the edges of the stone, giving a smoother finish to the edges. The honing process is usually achieved with the use of diamond abrasives, although some contractors


prefer silicon-carbide bricks or screens. 2.3 Polishing produces a highly reflective finish on the surface of stone. Polishing is usually accomplished with superfine abrasive powders, but can also be achieved with superfine diamond abrasive discs. 2.4 Basic Floor Machine Tool Options: 2.4.1 Mono-rotary Head Machines. This is a single head machine that usually holds between three and six diamond abrasives. More diamonds results in less force being applied to each diamond pad, which can slow the process. Fewer diamonds results in greater force being applied to each diamond pad, but reduces balance and control, which can result in a wavy finished floor. Operator skill and machine balance are both influential in the quality of the finished product. These machines usually turn in one direction at speeds of 150 to 320 rpm. 2.4.2 Planetary Head Machines. These machines utilize gears and higher horsepower to operate anywhere from three to nine or more diamond abrasives in a planetary motion in speeds in excess of 600 rpm. The added weight from the chassis and the larger motor (typically 220V/4HP or greater) provide more force per diamond pad and the high power overcomes the drag resulting from the additional diamonds. Because the heads are counter-rotating (spinning in opposite directions) the resultant finish is more uniform with less chance of swirl marking in the floor. Visible levels of gloss in the stone flooring may be visible at coarser grit sizes using this machine than when using a mono- rotary head machine. While planetary head machines are effective and efficient for big, open areas, the mono-rotary machine may be a better choice for smaller areas like a residential foyer. 2.4.3 Hand Tools Supply of compressed airin residential or office settings is rare, so restoration tools are most commonly powered electrically. Grounding protection is required due to the wet slurries used in restoration. Hand tools typically spin between 600 and 3,500 rpm. Higher speeds will generally require less force to be applied to the tool when working on the stone. 3.0 GRIT 3.1 Grit is any of various hard, sharp particles used as abrasives. Grit size is the number value designated for the size of these particles. The size is determined by passing the particles through a screen that has a set number of holes per square inch. For example, 400 grit is the size of abrasive particles that can pass through a screen with 400 holes per square inch. A 60 grit screen has sixty holes per square inch. The more holes per square inch, the smaller the holes are, and the finer the grit size. The following table shows some of the most common grit sizes available in the stone-refinishing industry, from coarse to fine. Grit Size: Per Square Inch 16 ,24,60, 80, 120, 220,400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 1500, 3000 Generally, grinding uses any grit of 60 or below; honing begins at 120 and proceeds 4.0 ABRASIVES 4.1 Abrasive Types. The two primary types of grit used in the stone industry are silicone carbide and diamond. These abrasives can be attached to backing in various ways like


sandpaper, or they can be added to a mixture and formed into a solid block. Most stone refinishers today use diamond abrasives. 4.1.1 Brick abrasives are composed of silicon carbide as the abrasive and magnisite or polyester as the bonding agent. The abrasive and the bonding agent are mixed together and poured into a mold. The mold is then cooled and forms a solid brick of the abrasive material. The bricks are produced in various shapes. The most common bricks are known as “Frankfurt” and “Cassini.” 4.1.2 Modern diamond abrasives are commonly metal bonded for grinding and resin bonded for honing and polishing. 5.0 HOW STONE SHINES 5.1 Overview. When stone becomes dull and scratched, it obviously loses its shine and luster. The stone then needs to be refinished and polished to restore the shine it had originally. How does stone shine, and can a lost shine be recovered? The deep shine we see on polished stone is achieved by rubbing the stone with a series of abrasive materials. The process is very similar to sanding a piece of wood. The stone is rubbed with a coarse abrasive grit, followed by finer and finer grits until the stone becomes smooth. The scratches left behind from one grit are removed by the next, creating finer and finer scratches. The process continues until the scratches are microscopic, at which point the surface becomes extremely smooth and starts to develop some reflectivity. The shine on the stone is thus a product of optics. When light is reflected from the stone, the light rays become scattered producing a dull, flat appearance to our eyes. This same optical property can be observed on a pond. When the wind is blowing and the surface of the pond is wavy, it becomes difficult to see a reflection; when the air is still and the pond is calm, a deep reflection can be observed. Thus, in order to produce or restore a deep shine on stone, all that needs to be done is to smooth it with the correct series of abrasives. 6.0 ACHIEVING A POLISHED SURFACE 6.1 Basic Techniques. A shine can be produced on stone with three basic techniques: coatings, crystallization, and polishing. Let's take a look at each in detail. 6.2.1 Coatings are commonly waxes, acrylics, floor finishes, urethanes, etc., that are applied on top of the stone surface. They are designed to provide a sacrificial layer that will take the abuse that stone receives. 6.2.2 Coatings are generally economical, easy to apply, and will provide stain resistance, slip resistance, and add luster or shine to the floor surface. But coatings are much softer than stone and will scratch, scuff, and mar very easily. They require frequent buffing, burnishing and/or reapplication. They can also build up, causing an unnatural, plastic appearance. Poor quality coatings will yellow and can cause permanent staining to some stone types. The necessity for stripping also makes coatings an undesirable choice for stone for several reasons. The chemical strippers can be very highly alkaline, which can cause spalling. 6.2.3 The stripping pads used are very abrasive and will often scratch the stone surface. Some brands of strippers will attack the plastic matrix in agglomerate stones, eating away at the polyester binders.


6.2.4 The most important reason coatings should be avoided is that they may block the breathing capability of the stone. Moisture can become trapped below the surface and lead to palling. 6.2.5 However, there are several areas where the use of coatings on stone surfaces may be necessary. If a polished stone surface is very slippery, a coating may be necessary. A coating may also be necessary for extremely soft stone installed in high-traffic areas. These soft stones are very difficult to maintain with conventional polishing processes. 6.2.6 Coatings may also be necessary on certain finishes such as flamed granite. There are special coatings available for these surfaces that work effectively for oil and water repellency. 6.2.7 If a coating is necessary, make sure that it is designed for stone surfaces, is applied properly, and most importantly, that it is monitored for potential problems. 6.3 Crystallization or also known as Vitrification. Another way to achieve a shine on stone surfaces is with a process known as crystallization. The term has entered the language of the marble polishing field to describe a process used to maintain a shine on marble surfaces. 6.3.1 Crystallization can also be called “vitrification” or “recrystallization.” The procedure has been used in the United States since the 1970s, and has generated controversy among experts. Both sides have put forward convincing arguments. If you opt for crystallization, as with any process, strict monitoring is necessary. The MIA neither condemns nor endorses this process. The information provided here is for review only, and does not constitute advice. 6.3.2 The crystallization process consists of spraying a fluid onto the marble floor and buffing it in with steel wool under a standard buffing machine. The steel wool generates heat through abrasion and the chemical reacts with the marble, producing a new compound on the surface of the stone. 6.3.3 Almost all crystallization chemicals contain three main ingredients: acid, fluorosilicate compounds, and waxes. 6.3.4 Crystallization can only react with calcium-based stones such as marble and limestones. Although the process can work on noncalcium-based stones such as granite, the reactions are entirely different. In the chemical reaction, acid attacks the calcium carbonate of the stone, leaving an etch mark on the stone surface. The fluorosilicate compounds found in crystallization fluids consist of three types: aluminum fluorosilicate, magnesium fluorosilicate, and zinc fluorosilicate. One or more may be found in crystallization fluids, depending on the brand. 6.3.5 When the crystallization fluid is sprayed on a marble surface, the acid attacks the calcium carbonate. The fluorosilicate compound then attaches itself to the calcium ion, forming a new compound called calcium fluorosilicate. 6.3.6 Simply put, the crystallization process works by forcing one ion from one molecule to another in the cement matrix that holds the crystals together. This forms a new cement matrix that can be harder than the original cement matrix of the stone. The newly hard and the preexisting softer structures form two layers, and thus a layer of separation is between them. In many stone varieties, especially those that contain carbon elements, this causes the stone to delaminate. In others, especially many low and medium density limestones, this causes iron (from the steel wool) to enter into the stone’s chemistry. All stones that undergo this process have dramatic changes in their element construction. In order for this reaction to take place, frictional heat must be generated. This is the reason for using steel wool on the buffing machine.


6.3.7 The process must be performed by trained craftsmen who are familiar with the techniques of this process. Excessive moisture in the stone can hamper the crystallization reaction and cause problems. 6.3.8 Proponents of the crystallization process claim the new compound formed protects the surface of the stone, adds shine, and may even harden the stone, increasing its wear resistance. Opponents of the process claim that the new compound formed blocks the stone’s ability to “breathe,” traps moisture, and causes the stone to rot. It is important to note that there are many different formulations of crystallizers that vary in chemistry and performance. It is imperative to qualify the stone and match an appropriate formulation of crystallizer to achieve the desired result.

Your floors current condition

Stain removal

All glues, adhesives, mastics and paints can be removed. The process you choose determines how stain free the resulting floor will be. Stains from Jute carpet backing and dyes cannot always be removed. Deep stain removal is required. In the vast majority of cases stains can be removed however no contractor can guarantee that there are no impossible stains. We have a effective ways to remove or lighten mineral or organic stains.

Carpet and Tile Removal

We can remove all types of floor including Tile, carpet and wood flooring that covers your existing floor.

Tact Strip removal

DO NOT PULL THE NAILS UP IN A TERRAZZO FLOOR!!!! It will leave behind craters.

We remove all tact strip and nails.

Repairing Chips and holes


To fix holes, cracks or divots we color match the binder and Terrazzo stone. This method matches the concrete color and the size and density of the marble stones in the floor. It’s an art and has a great result. It is more difficult to tell there was a hole or divot. We work with a large company who specializes in matching stones for your floor.

Our procedure for Epoxy patching Terrazzo floors is the same used by National Terrazzo and Mosaic Society as well as The National Historic Restoration Society. The following is the approved procedure of the NTMA and is included on the following pages for reference.

PART 1---GENERAL (Patching cracks and holes in Terrazzo Floors) 1.02 REFERENCES


A. NTMA Standards: Comply with specified provisions and recommendations of the National Terrazzo and Mosaic Association, Inc. (NTMA), 3166 Des Plaines Avenue, Ste. 132, Des Plaines, IL 60018, 800/323-9736 or 708/635- 7744, FAX (708) 635-9127. 2.01 MATERIALS A. Patching Resin: Manufacturer's standard 2-component epoxy resin, designed specifically for patching of terrazzo materials. 1. Tint to match color of existing terrazzo matrix following manufacturer's recommendations. B. Aggregate for Epoxy: Natural, sound, crushed marble chips without excessive flats or flakes, complying with NTMA requirements. 1. Colors and gradation of aggregate sizes as required to match existing terrazzo aggregate material. 2. Aggregate colors should be matched after cleaning or taken from the interior of core samples depending upon scope of work. C. Ammonia or chemical stripper D. Interior Floor Sealer: Colorless, slip and stain resistant penetrating sealer with Ph factor between 7 and 10, that does not affect color or physical properties of terrazzo surface. E. Clean, potable water 2.02 EQUIPMENT A. Hand sander, small grinding tools B. Grinding stones: Fine grit emery stones manufactured specifically for restorative type grinding and surfacing of terrazzo surfaces (#40 and #80 grit stones). C. Resurfacing Screens: A fine grit screen manufactured specifically for restorative type grinding and resurfacing terrazzo surfaces. PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION A. Remove all foreign matter from the void, followed by routing with a power tool. Remove all sealer from the surface adjacent to the void with a stripper or ammonia. B. Blend the resin materials to match the color matrix, by adding marble dust or pigment. C. Force mixed resin into the void, making sure it is pressured into the crack as deep as possible. In some cases, the supplier will instruct using a primer for their materials. D. If the void is large enough, and the intent is to disguise the line so it will blend into the rest of the terrazzo floor, irregularly place marble chips matching the existing terrazzo blend along the line approximately one to two inches on center. Be sure to do this,however, while the patching resin is still in a wet state. Finally, tool off surface and allow to cure. E. When the material has hardened, sand surface with a hand sander or small grinding tool, using fine stones. 1. Use a #40 or finer grit stone for the initial grinding, exposing the marble chips. Follow with a fine #80 grit stone before grouting with cement to fill all pinholes. 2. Thoroughly rinse the surface with clean, clear water. 3. Remove excess rinse water and allow to dry. 4. Final polish with a #80 or finer grit stone. Care should be taken to limit grinding and polishing to a small distance beyond the perimeter of the patch. F. For some time, this area will be noticeable, however, with normal maintenance, the area will blend into the balance of the floor.

The Final look of your new floor


Your floor will look nothing like its current condition. It will be gorgeous when we are done. You are actually very lucky to have Terrazzo, it is extremely expensive to install Terrazzo floors. Here are some before and after photos.

Before, during and after pictures (This house took 7 days)

BEFORE (Tile was removed)

DURING the grinding process

AFTER the polishing process


Typical after photos


Materials

All materials are safe, non toxic and eco friendly.

Cleanup

Consists of:

Removal of all plastic and tape that is protecting the walls

Clean and dry floors

Remove all equipment and tools

Costs

There are a few options available during a Terrazzo restoration, but in general the cost is less than or equal to installing carpet.


Measurements

Areas: 1. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 2. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 3. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 4. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 5. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 6. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 7. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 8. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 9. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 10. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 11. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 12. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 13. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 14. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 15. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 16. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 17. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 18. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 19. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft 20. Name ________________: ________ft X ________ft = ________ Sq ft

TOTAL AREA: _________

Terrazzo Restoration

Documents

Transcript of Terrazzo Restoration