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SUMMERIN DENMARK

BoBo ØsterbroAmsterdam in Copenhagen

Simply sustainable SamsøDiscover central Jutland

13-19 July 2012

Denmark’s only English-language newspaper

2

A DISTRICT more suitable for feeding the ducks than satisfying your urge to party, Østerbro sits pretty on the edge of

the city centre. With a long-established reputation as Copenhagen’s upper-class neighbourhood, Østerbro is more com-

monly associated with being liveable rather than hip or cool. And being a typically wealthy area, a chance encounter

with a Danish celebrity is not uncommon. But look past the uniform apartment buildings, wide boulevards and quiet residential

streets, and you’ll see that this area has more to offer than simple everyday conveniences. Fælledparken, the large central park,

is a happening hub for sporting events and festivals alike. Situated close by is Parken, a sports stadium that doubles as a stage

for some of the biggest musical acts to visit Copenhagen. Indeed, parks and lakes decorate much of Østerbro, from the green

slopes of Kastellet to the vast expanse of city lakes that form the chosen route for hundreds of joggers every day. With good

cafés and restaurants, health-food shops and organic-produce signs plastered everywhere, it’s clear that many people who live

in this area like to take care of themselves. They relish life in their tranquil neighbourhood and are perfectly happy to seek ac-

tion further afield. After all, the noisier surrounding districts, like Nørrebro and the city centre, are just a short bike ride away.

DO

In an area sometimes dubbed ‘the

Latté District’, it’s surprising how

much there is to do for free in Øs-

terbro. Its lush green parks offer

plenty of opportunities for barbe-

cues and picnics. Kastellet is a par-

ticularly picturesque option set against

a backdrop of green embankments and

windmills. The slopes of the star-shaped citadel are dotted

with cannons, and served a more practical purpose back in the

1600s when they protected Denmark against invading forces. A

stroll down to the adjacent waterfront reveals Copenhagen Har-

bour and one of the city’s biggest (or smallest) tourist attractions

– Hans Christian Andersen’s Little Mermaid. At Fiskerihavnen, lo-

cated at the tip of Nordhavn, amateur anglers can take out small

fishing boats, and there’s a kiosk for restocking fishing (and beer)

supplies. For active land-dwellers, running around the city lakes

or through Fælledparken is pleasant, while spectators might pre-

fer seeing a concert or football match at the adjoining Parken.

Kastellet. A star-shaped wonderland perfect for a picnic lunch (near Østerport Station)

EAT When the sun is shining, Dag H Café and Restaurant is in the perfect position. Its guests can enjoy alfresco dining, while warming their necks and watching bicy-cles whizz by at the busy Lille Triangel intersection. Italian trattoria-style restau-rant Hos Fischer on Victor Borges Plads, also allows patrons to spill out onto the prome- nade. The square, Bopa Plads, shows off a big playground and a number of quaint eateries like Pixie – a good place for brunch. Another pop-ular, but hidden, brunch joint is Canteen on Nordre Frihavnsgade. From the outside, it looks exactly as its name suggests but inside, it’s far more charming than a cafeteria. Kafferiet, near Kastellet, is a cosy coffee bar – its counter is decorated with a selection of colourful candy for sale. For something more substantial, burger-lovers rave about Halifax at Trianglen, and if you really want to splurge, try Geranium – it was named the world’s 49th best restaurant this year.

Canteen. Book a table by the window so you can watch the world go by during brunch (Nordre Frihavnsgade 52)

SHOP

Though located away from Copenhagen’s main shopping hub,

there are plenty of small boutiques and interesting shops to be

found in Østerbro. For cutting-edge Danish design and fashion,

Normann Copenhagen on Østerbrogade is a must visit – the shop

changes its gorgeous window display almost daily. For women’s

clothing, Berg, also on Østerbrogade, has amazing threads and

shoes bursting with colour, and a short walk further north will

bring you to OZ – to keep the men happy. With so many great

jogging routes in the neighborhood, a host of running stores –

like Marathon Sport, located at the top of the lakes – cater to

active types. Nordre Frihavnsgade is also sparsely dotted with

interesting stores. For pre-loved designer clothes, Greibe og Ku-

mari is the place, a delightful wine shop, Vinobossen, is packed

with boutique brews, fancy tea and liquorice, and the staff at

Odin Fisk will dish up plenty of charisma with their fresh catch.

Normann Copenhagen. This flagship store showcases Danish design at its best (Østerbrogade 70)

AFTER DARK

In a quiet neighbourhood like Østerbro, the selection of watering

holes is limited to a range of intimate bars ideal for kicking off

a night out. Summer is the time to sip cocktails, and there is a

delicious range on offer at Kitjin on Århusgade. There are com-

fortable couches inside, and an old kitchen at the back doubles

as a novel smoking room. The bar also has generous happy-

hour deals, with two-for-one cocktails every evening until 21:00.

Pixie transforms into a bar in the evenings, with outdoor seating

and a courtyard for balmy nights. Fru Heiberg, on Rosenvængets

Allé behind Trianglen, is a French- and Danish-inspired restau-

rant that’s open late from Thursday to Saturday – its cosy sur-

roundings are ideal for a glass of wine. For some Mediterranean

flavour on the same street, try Panzon Vinbar for wine or tapas

– or both.

Kitjn. You’ll love the delicious mojitos served in glass jars (Århusgade 14)

Summer in Denmark: 13-19 July 2012 Neighbourhood safari | Østerbro

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

Frederiksberg

Vesterbro

Nørrebro

Hellerup

Christianshavn

NEXT WEEK: VESTERBRO

More than just a quiet façade

Østerbro

By Elise Beacom

3

Summer in Denmark: 13-19 July 2012

OPEN ALL DAYS

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Rococo-mania is an unconventional museum experience that explores rococo as a phenomenon of the past as well as the present.

CONTEMPORARY ART AND DESIGNIN DIALOGUE WITH CRAFTS FROM THE 1700’S

ROkOkO-mania

Special exhibition3 May – 23 SepteMber

DeSignMuSeuM DanMark - breDgaDe 68 / 1260 københavn k

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louisiana.dk

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MUSEUM In THE wORLD

WHETHER it’s canal tours, quaint bridges, artists who

cut off their ears or coffee shops, there’s something

for everyone in Amsterdam. Throw on your clogs

and follow the trail to find traces of Amsterdam in Copenha-

gen. Danes have always been keen on the Netherlands. As far

back as 1521, Dutch farmers, at the invite of King Christian II,

settled on the island of Amager.

Life in the Dutch village and its foreign customs attracted

artists such as Julius Exner, Friedlænder and Jens Juel. Their

paintings, as well as the traditional clothing worn by the

settlers, is on display at Amager Museum.

In the Netherlands, they say Amsterdam has two types of

tourists: those who visit the van Gogh Museum first, and those

who visit the red-light district first. But many are also attracted

to the city’s coffee shops. Unlike Amsterdam, though, Copen-

hagen’s cafés don’t sell hash, but at the National Museum,

you can see a hash booth that once served customers in the

Christiania commune.

For those whose tastes lean more towards art and nature,

Nivaagaard presents a collection of landscapes by Dutch

baroque artists Jan van Goyen, Salomon Ruysdael, Aert van

der Neer and Jacob van Ruisdael. Nivaagaard also houses a

number of portraits, including one by Rembrandt. And what’s

more Dutch than a windmill? At the Gilleleje Musuem, the im-

pressive Ramløse Mølle is still operated by a miller and his

apprentice.

Back in Copenhagen, head to Nyhavn and hop on a canal-tour

boat. The trip passes houseboats, elegant bridges and throngs

of bikes, all accompanied by the scent of Dutch waffles. En-

tering the canals of Chrstianshavn, the sight is truly Dutch.

Founded in 1618 by Christian IV, the area was intended as

housing for Dutch immigrants. It was built in the Dutch style in

1618 by Johan Semp. Those interested in modern architecture

can stop along the canal tour at the Danish Architecture Cen-

tre, which shows the latest international trends in architecture.

End the day in the gardens of Kongens Have, in the shadow

of Rosenborg Castle. When the flowers are in bloom during

the spring, the tulips conjure up memories of Dutch fields. And

last on the list of Dutch treats in Copenhagen is a stop at Café

Amsterdam, at Cort Adelers Gade 2, behind the Royal Theatre.

There, the Heineken is always cold.

4

Summer in Denmark: 13-19 July 2012

Feeling cooped up in Copenhagen? If you’ve got a touch of wanderlust but can’t get out of the city, why not make

a grand tour of Europe in your hometown? There are plenty of places where you can experience the best of some

of Europe’s great metropolises. This summer, we’ll take you to Berlin, Amsterdam, Rome and Paris – without ever

leaving the Copenhagen area. Next destination: Amsterdam.

By Julie W. Tovgaard

Marina Torp, 37,artist

“The best way to cure your hangover after a night of partying is to head over to Malmö, grab a big brunch somewhere and then go look at art in Malmö Kon-

sthall. That’s such a great way to see art, and Malmö Konstall is an incredible place. When you’re like that,

you’ve got no urgent need to look critically at art – you can just experience it as it is. I’m not such a big fan of minimalism, but when I’m tired and I’m still a little woozy, it’s just what the doctor ordered. It’s also an experience to be able travel to another country to go to a gallery. And besides, Malmö’s a nice place.

“I’m a big fan of Statens Museum for Kunst and the things they do to bring art out of people. The last time I attended one of their alternative events, they had a punk band giving a concert. I think it’s great that they try to at-tract a broader range of people into the national gallery by showing that the term ‘art’ can be applied to a lot of things, including a musical performance, a poetry reading or whatever other crazy idea you can come up with. Art thrives when it’s in our midst. There’s nothing that says that visiting a museum should be something special.

“One place I’d really like to visit is the Cisterns – the Mu-

seum of Modern Glass Art – located at Søndermarken park in Frederiksberg. The museum itself is in one of the city’s old water reservoirs, and I’m told it’s quite magical. I could imagine that it would be a unique place to show art, since it’s underground and there’s no natural light. Nor-mally, location doesn’t mean much to me – inspiration can strike anywhere – but it’s important that we make room for art, and that we open up ourselves to it. That’s why I prefer to go to museums just after they open or just before they close.”

By: Fie Krøyer Dahl

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chEurope in Copenhagen ...My museumwhere I experience art

Your click to Copenhagen-area museums & experiences

5

WATER – A WORLD OF ADVENTUREA bone-dry ride through the wet element, this exhibition al-

lows you to fight with the power of the sea. See if you can

manage to save someone who has fallen overboard from

a ship. The 850 sq m exhibition features over 50 thrilling

activities and fascinating experiments with water.

ExperimentariumTuborg Havnevej 7, Hellerupexperimentarium.dk

BALANCE AND METABOLISMWhat do you think about your body? Using objects and im-

ages from the unique collections at the Medical Museion,

the new Balance and Metabolism exhibit showcases two

different understandings of the body in the history of medi-

cine. The exhibition focuses on the therapies that arise from

these different theories of the body – from emetics and

bloodletting bowls to insulin injectors and hormone treat-

ments – and the conception of the body that resulted in

their development.

Medical MuseionBredgade 62, Copenhagen Kmuseion.ku.dk

LEJRE – LAND OF LEGENDSOver 10,000 years of Danish history is retold at Sagnlandet

Lejre in a uniquely interactive show that involves the entire

family. Experience how families lived – or even try to live as

a family – in the Stone Age, the Iron Age, the Viking era and

the 1800s. Or watch craftsmen labour in period workshops,

and Danish breeds of farm animals roam their pastures. For

those more into nature than history, Lejre also offers a roll-

ing landscape of forests, ponds and meadows.

Sagnlandet LejreSlangealleen 2, Lejresagnlandet.dk

For FamiliesEvents

Exhibitions

German world images 1890-1930Rare works from the Na-

tional Gallery’s permanent

collection tell the story of

one of the most turbulent

periods in the history of Ger-

man art. Through the works

of Wassily Kandinsky, Paul

Klee and Emil Nolde, the

exhibit depicts the German

modernists’ quest to identify

the national identity.

The National GallerySølvgade 48-50Copenhagen Ksmk.dk

My name is Jørgen LethImpassioned, intellectual, a

lover of cycling and an artist

fascinated by life’s richness

and the body’s beauty,

Jørgen Leth has long been a

favourite among the cultural

elite. Now in his seventies,

he has attained cult status

among a younger genera-

tion. His artistic focus ranges

from the close at hand to

the worldly, and from the

mythic to the basic tenets of

daily life. Experience it all at

Kunstforeningen Gl. Strand.

Kunstforeningen Gl. StrandGammel Strand 48Copenhagen Kglstrand.dk

Zarah Voigt // Jean VoigtElegant Sophienholm opens

its doors for a spectacular

exhibition of the works

of jewellery maker Zarah

Voight and her father Jean

Voigt. Discover their strange

and beautiful universe of

silver, black and violet.

SophienholmNybrovej 401Kgs. Lyngbysophienholm.dk

PilgrimEsrum Abby presents

two emotionally moving

photo exhibits that focus on

pilgrimages. These special

journeys trace their roots to

ancient times, and are used

by many religions as a either

a trek from one point on the

map to another, or as a spir-

itual voyage that explores

the soul through inner reflec-

tion and an examination of

conscience.

Esrum Kloster & MøllegaardKlostergade 11Græstedesrum.dk

Flaming textiles from UzbekistanExperience a world of colour

and pattern as the David

Collection presents it newly

arranged collection of Uz-

bekistani ikat fabrics, which

are normally not on display.

Ikat fabrics are created using

a particularly complicated

weaving method that is em-

ployed in only in a few parts

of the world. In Uzbekistan,

where it has been practiced

for centuries, the method

has been nicknamed ‘flaming

yarn’.

David Collection Kronprinsessegade 30Copenhgen Kdavidssamling.dk

Summer in Denmark: 13-19 July 2012

Circus Museum

www.cirkusmuseum.dk

Circus Workshop

Every Sunday in July

11-12.30

Hovedporten 6 ● Hvidovre ● Sun-Thursday 11-15

The

ON LOANMasterpieces

from Skagens Museum

4 May - 3 September 2012

www.hirschsprung.dkOpen daily 11 AM - 5 PM Closed Mondays

COPENHAGEN JAZZ FESTIVAL AT CHARLOTTENBORG

Once again this year, the Charlottenborg art gallery will

host a series of Copenhagen Jazz Festival concerts. Ex-

perience music performed outdoors at one of the city’s

largest and most beautiful spaces for contemporary art.

June 11 and 12. More information available at jazz.dk.

Kunsthallen CharlottenborgNyhavn 2, Copenhagen Kkunsthalcharlottenborg.dk

GUIDED TOURS AT THE DANISH JEWISH MUSEUM

Get the inside story behind Daniel Libeskind’s design for

the museum housing 400 years of Jewish history in Den-

mark. The tour offers highlights from the museum’s per-

manent collection, titled ‘Space and Spaciousness’. Tours

available Fri Jul 6, Sun Jul 8 and Wed Jul 18 at 14:00.

Danish Jewish MuseumProviantspassagen 6, Copenhagen K

jewmus.dk

VISIT A VICTORIAN HOME

The Victorian Home is located just a few steps from the

National Museum. The flat, which was once home to the

merchant Rudolph Christensen, appears precisely as it

did between 1890 and 1914. The authentic interiors are

well-preserved. Please sign up at the Information Desk.

The guided tour takes place on Sat Jul 14 at 14:00.

The National MuseumNy Vestergade 10, Copenhagen Knatmus.dk

•

•

•

SCULPTURE • ARCHITECTUR • PAINTINGS

BERTEL THORVALDSENS PLADS 2, COPENHAGEN KOPEN TUESDAY-SUNDAY 10-17 WWW.THORVALDSENSMUSEUM.DK

Your click to Copenhagen-area museums & experiences

6

Summer in Denmark: 13-19 July 2012 Island Hopping | Samsø

There and back again – in just a dayThe island of Samsø has gained international renown for being carbon-negative. What few might realise is that it’s also perfect for a day trip

By Jason Heppenstall

SamsøSituated right in the middle of the sea between Zealand and

Jutland, Samsø is a beautiful small island famed for the qual-

ity of its produce as well as its eco-conscious residents. You

can easily get there from both Zealand and Jutland aboard

ferries that depart several times each day. One of the best

ways to explore the island is on a bicycle – you can either

bring your own or rent one when you arrive at the ferry ter-

minal. The island is also famous for its many dining and ac-

commodation options; it is a perennial favourite with Danish

holidaymakers. You can try fresh seafood and wash it down

with a glass (or two) of the local wine or beer. What’s more,

there is plenty to do, with golfing and sailing being particularly

popular activities. Samsø offers something for everyone, and

it’s within easy striking distance from most places in Denmark.

HAVE YOU ever wondered what a Samsinger is?

Could it be someone who spends Friday evenings

in Sam’s Bar on Strøget, belting out karaoke num-

bers? Or perhaps some kind of skylark-like bird that sings

its song high above the duney beaches of Jutland? No, in

fact a Samsinger is someone who comes from a small Dan-

ish island found 15 kilometres off the Jutland coast – a place

that is renowned the world over for something special.

I’ll get into what makes the place famous in due course,

but for now all you need to know is that, in any beauty

contest between Danish islands, Samsø would probably be

favoured to win. When you try to imagine this small island

in your mind’s eye, picture a gently undulating landscape

dotted with villages of thatched cottages, orchards hum-

ming with bees and fields of strawberries. Like every other

Danish isle, it’s a peaceful place best explored at a leisurely

pace, preferably on foot or by bicycle.

I must admit that I had heard so many good things about

Samsø that I felt somewhat ashamed that I had never vis-

ited until now. And with Denmark’s compact size, there is

simply no excuse for not visiting some of its most beautiful

areas. So one Saturday morning, I simply jumped in the car

and drove out west towards the coast of Zealand. From

Copenhagen, it’s an easy hour and a quarter to Kalundborg

in time to catch the 8:45 ferry. Getting on board couldn’t

be simpler. If you haven’t already pre-booked, you can just

drive up to the barrier and pay as you board.

The journey takes a couple of hours, and there are two res-

taurants on board, as well as a kids’ games room and a

TV area. The views along the way are fine, and the route

sails past Vesborg Lighthouse on the southern coast before

you arrive at the port of Kolby Kås. Immediately when you

disembark, you are confronted with the sight of dozens of

purple bicycles. It’s simple to hire one, and then you’re off

around the island in an ecological manner.

Which brings me to why Samsø is famous. In 1997, Sam-

singers decided that they wanted to create the first envi-

ronmentally sustainable inhabited island in the world, be-

coming totally self-sufficient in energy. A good deal of hard

work later, they have achieved that goal, and the island

is now carbon-negative – this means they actually export

more energy than they use. Among the sandal-footed tour-

ists on the ferry, you might also see visiting delegations

from places as far afield as Japan or Brazil, arriving on fact-

finding missions to learn how this small island managed to

travel so far down the road to sustainability.

Samsø might be tranquil these days, but it was exactly

the opposite in Norse mythology. Some of the old sagas

identify Samsø as the place where the god Odin learned

Norse sorcery, and it was also the site of a legendary battle

where the Swedish warrior Hjalmar fought the 12 sons of

a beserker called Angrim. But things seem to have quieted

down quite a bit since then, and sitting on the quay watch-

ing the fishing boats come in at Ballen, the liveliest thing

you’re likely to see are a few kitesurfers taking advantage

of the breeze.

In terms of geography, Samsø is long and thin, with the

northern section joined to the southern by only a slender

spit of land. Nowhere on the island are you more than

3.5 kilometres from the sea. The main town is Tranebjerg,

which has the most shops as well as banks and a few res-

taurants. It’s here that you can find the informative Okø-

museum (Eco-museum), which will give you an overview of

Samsø through the ages as well as entry u NEXT WEEK: FANØ

Samsø

7

Island Hopping | Samsø Summer in Denmark: 13-19 July 2012

Skipperly Restaurant, Ballen. Charming atmosphere with

fantastic seafood dishes and an ambience that harks back

to the age of salty sea dogs (skipperly.dk).

If you fancy a bit of luxury, check out the

Ilse Made hotel, which also has an excel-

lent restaurant (ilsemade.dk).

uGetting thereFerries run several times daily from Kalundborg in Zealand to

Kolby Kås, and Hou in Jutland to Sælvig. Maximum crossing time

is 2 hours. For more details, check out faergen.com.

to a nearby farmhouse that is preserved as it

looked in the 19th century.

On the eastern side of the island, not far from Traneb-

jerg, is Ballen. This lively fishing village has a beach and

a number of seafood restaurants, including a smokehouse

where you can sample traditional smoked seafood. We

stopped to have lunch at the excellent Skipperly Restau-

rant, which serves up fresh dishes and herrings galore in

a cosy ‘olde-worlde’ building that pays homage to the

ships of yesteryear. Nearby, you can buy locally made ice

cream and perhaps sample some of the area’s wine. Yes,

that’s right – Samsø might be known for its new potatoes

and strawberries, but wine production is perhaps one of

the more surprising growth industries here, and you can

visit some of the vineyards to see for yourself.

If you want to sample more of the island’s produce, it’s

a simple matter of just travelling around the back roads

and stopping by local farms. Many of them have honesty

boxes at the gate, and you can load up with honey, jam,

strawberries, potatoes, onions and plenty more. Shops –

who needs them?

For us, it was but a flying visit. We hopped on the 16:45

ferry and were back in Copenhagen in the evening. So,

while it is a perfectly practical day trip, staying on the

island a little longer would be the ideal choice, and Samsø

has plenty of accommodation options to choose from.

With everything from swish boutique hotels, guest hous-

es, B&Bs, campsites and holiday cottages, you’ll never be

stuck for somewhere to stay.

Neither is there any shortage of things to see and do on

Samsø. During your visit, you can get lost in a giant for-

ested maze, play golf, pet animals on a farm, go sailing or

diving, ride around in a horse-drawn carriage or roll down

a hill in a giant plastic ball. And it goes without saying that

the island has numerous art galleries and craft shops, sell-

ing ceramics, paintings and handmade cosmetics. Samsø

might be small, but it definitely offers plenty to keep you

entertained while you’re there.

Stay

Camping with your own tent or caravan is a pop-

ular – and cheap – way to enjoy Samsø. There

are three campsites found on the island: Sælvig

Bugtens Camping (saelvigbugtens-camping.dk),

Strandskov Camping (strandskovscamping.dk)

and Kiltgaard Camping (klitgaardcamping.dk).

EatSamsø has many restaurants catering

to a variety of tastes. All of them go

in for fresh local produce with many

also serving fresh seafood, such as

herrings, langoustine and crab. If you

want an expensive treat, head down

to the Ballen Badehotel, which serves

up excellent fare (ballenbadehotel.

dk). At the other end of the scale –

but no less of an experience – head

across the harbour to Røgeriet, where

various smoked delicacies are served

up (rogeriet.dk).

DoBeing a popular destination, Samsø has something for everyone. Real ale lovers

should head down to the Samsø Brewery for a tipple (samsoe-bryghus.dk), or if

you haven’t yet reached drinking age, perhaps a roll down a hill in a giant plastic

ball is more appropriate (samsodownhill.dk).

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

Nothing beats travelling around Samsø at a leaisurely pace with the

wind in your face. You can rent both regular and battery-assisted bikes

at the ferry terminal and Ballen (samsocykeludlejning.dk).

u

Summer in Denmark: 13-19 July 2012

8

Regional | Central Jutland

From the vibrancy of Denmark’s second-largest city to some of the nation’s oldest historical artefacts, central Jutland is at the crossroads of Denmark’s past and present

By Stephanie Harvey

uCentral Jutland Central Jutland is home to enchanting towns, lakes and dense

forests. Whether it’s the old fortress city of Fredericia in the

south or Viborg, Denmark’s second-oldest provincial town,

to the north, central Jutland is a varied and historic area. The

west is characterised by isolated coastlines and heather-

topped moors; Ringkobing Fjord is an ideal spot to watch for

seals and porpoises. Western Denmark’s countryside is an

abundant landscape of small hills and farms that are steeped

in Viking history, while busier cities such as Aarhus and Silke-

borg offer a cosmopolitan break. Regardless of whether

they live in town or country, the local residents appreciate

their landscape and culture. Central Jutland easily contrasts

its accessible and rich countryside with cobbled and brightly

painted towns that are full of museums, cafés and areas of

architectural interest. Local attractions like Legoland, aquari-

ums, elaborate mazes and scores of summer festivals means

there’s always plenty to do in central Jutland.

In central Jutland’s northeastern corner, you’ll find Ebel-

toft, a scenic town with crooked streets, local handicraft

shops, half-timbered buildings and home to the 1860 Jyl-

land, the oldest man-of-war sailing ship in Denmark. Wan-

dering the cobblestone streets is like going back in time. Due

to two centuries of economic stagnation, it remained virtually

untouched. But in the 1960s, it suddenly became a tourist at-

traction: this town is the largest gateway to the Mols Bjerge

national park, famous for its varied coastline and moraine

hills formed by glaciers 14,000 years ago.

From here, you can reach Denmark’s major seaport and

second-largest city, Aarhus. A vibrant hub with 40,000 stu-

dents, it has many winding, colourful streets, and the canal

side brims with cafés and bars. ARoS, a contemporary art

museum, is visible throughout the town due to its famous

rainbow panorama that crowns the city. There are a variety

of bookshop cafés that offer quality coffee and cake in cosy

surroundings, such as Løves Bog- og Vincafé.

Aarhus is the ideal mix of countryside and city. The park

called ‘Dyrehaven’ has free-roaming and friendly deer; to the

south of Aarhus lies Risskov forest, where the far-reaching

sandy beach is easily accessible for a quick dip or a picnic if

the weather is good. There is also ‘Den permanente’ – a his-

torical outdoor sea bath with saunas and a sheltered beach.

Vikings settled here 1,200 years ago, and the treasures of

Moesgard Museum explore this history in addition to hous-

ing the mummified Graubelle Man of 80 BC. The Silkeborg

Lake District is nearby, which contains Mossø, Denmark’s

largest lake, and the Labyrinthia theme park is perfect for a

challenging day in the world of mazes.

Many historical sites are tucked away in unassuming villages.

Built in 1100, Veng Abbey is Denmark’s oldest monastery, and

close by is Skanderborg Castle, a traditional hunting retreat for

Danish kings from the 12th to 16th centuries. To the south lies

the quietly important and UNESCO-protected village of Jell-

ing, once the royal seat for King Gorm the Old, a 10th-century

Viking who conquered Jutland, Funen and Zealand to estab-

lish Denmark. There are two runic stones here: the smaller and

older of them has an inscription in memory of Gorm’s wife,

and it is considered to be the first recorded use of the name

‘Denmark’. As in many Danish towns during summer months,

history is brought to life during an immersive Viking festival in

July. For thrills of a wilder kind, there is Givskud Zoo, where

you can drive through the largest pride of lions in Scandinavia.

Further north is Ringkobing Fjord, where a narrow piece of

sandy land just 35 kilometres long separates the Fjord from

the North Sea; it’s the perfect place for watersports, and the

historic town is an idyllic vacation spot.

NEXT WEEK: SOUTHERN JUTLAND

History and culture in the Danish heartland

Central Jutland

Summer in Denmark: 13-19 July 2012

9

Regional | Central Jutland

StayDepending on your preference, a variety of needs can be catered to – from

one of Denmark’s 550 camping sites to luxury hotels, historic houses, hos-

tels and even a farm holiday, where you can be immersed in Denmark’s

countryside culture. In Aarhus, City Hotel Oasia is a friendly, bright, mini-

malist and charming hotel.

OURPICK!

Eat

Aarhus restaurant Nordens Folkekokken presents a locally sourced, seasonal menu of Danish food. Aarhus also has a

variety of restaurants that offer flavours from around the world – Gallorant Kif-Kif offers a fusion of Mediterranean and

Tunisian dishes at reasonable prices. If it is pizza or pasta you crave, Italia is considered the best quality and value for the

money. For something livelier at night, Jacob’s barBQ offers a messy yet tasty menu as well as a piano bar and nightclub.

For a reasonably priced Eastern European lunch buffet, try Det Grønne Hjørne.

OURPICK!

OURPICK!

DoIn Billund, visit Legoland, where detailed miniature cities and

famous landmarks made from the small plastic bricks are sure

to fascinate. In Vejle, take a trip to Ecolarium, a centre that

aims to raise awareness about environmental issues and the

potential of alternative energy. Grejsdalen valley northwest of

Vejle is Denmark’s largest gorge. The area is unique, and the

scenery striking with forest-covered slopes. Silkeborg offers a

variety of activities, such as canoeing and hiking. Try to see

the impressive view from Himmelbjerget (the Sky Mountain)

near Ry. For those interested in history, the 2,400-year-old

remains of the perfectly preserved Tollund Man provide a fas-

cinating glimpse of the past, as do the other Iron Age findings

at Silkeborg Museum, the city’s oldest building.

Experience Silkeborg Hjejlen, the world’s oldest

coal-burning paddle steamer. With tranquil lakes,

magnificent highland areas and many inns (kroer)

that deliver Danish hospitality with local flavours

to keep you satisfied, it’s the perfect alternative to

bustling towns.

Scenic Malling og Schmidt’s Nordic cuisine is pricy, but it’s frequently named as one of the best restaurants in Aarhus.

It aims to reflect the flavours of Denmark, giving guests ‘an intimate culinary view of Jutland’ (mallingschmidt.dk).

Stay a night or two in a cosy inn, many of which have

retained their 18th-century rusticity. They can often be

found in the open countryside, surrounded by beautiful

scenery. Search for accommodation to find something

that suits your location at visitdenmark.dk.

Strandgade 27 B1401 Copenhagen www.dac.dk

a world of architecture & designexhibitionsCAFebooKs/shoPVisit us at the harbour front in central copenhagen