STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛”...

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CONDENSED MANUAL STYLES

Transcript of STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛”...

Page 1: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

CONDENSED MANUAL

STYLES

Page 2: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Tailoring Grades

Full Canvas, 70% Hand Sewn

Full Canvas

Half Canvas

Unstructured

Unstructured with limited options, only stretch fabrics available, alpha sizing

Mayfair

Buckingham

Windsor

Tuscany

Sorrento

CSC

SWK

Jacket

Page 3: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Pattern Blocks

Standard Block Tailored Block

Higher Armhole

Raised Top Button Position

Raised Lower Exterior Pocket

Trimmer Bicep

Trimmer Sleeve Opening

Tailored Block vs. Standard Block

Jacket

All options available except Shooting Jacket specific optionsNot available for TuscanyNot available for Swacket

Page 4: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Pattern Blocks

Page 5: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Single Breasted Models

One Button Two Button Three Button

Jacket

Page 6: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Single Breasted Specialty Models

Fashion Shawl* Three Button Rolled to Two

One Button Only Three Button Only

Jacket

* Fashion Shawl lapel width: 3 ½”

Page 7: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Four Button Double Breasted Models

Double Breasted 4x1 Double Breasted 4x2

Four Buttons w/ One Buttonhole Four Buttons w/ Two Buttonholes

Jacket

Page 8: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Six Button Double Breasted Models

Double Breasted 6x1 Double Breasted 6x2

Six Buttons w/ One Buttonhole Six Buttons w/ Two Buttonholes

Jacket

Page 9: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Swacket (SWK)Jacket

Sorrento

Page 10: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Lapels & Collars

Shoulder Styles

Notch Sharp Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak ShawlPeak

Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Jacket

Ultra Soft Natural Capped Roped

Page 11: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

ML05ML04ML03ML02ML01

ML10ML09ML08ML07ML06

1 Color 2 Colors 3 Colors

Select up to 3 colors

Jacket

Milanese Buttonhole

Page 12: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

None

Welt

Center

Curved Welt Square Corners

Double Side

Patch

Vent length adjustments: ± ¾”, ± 1 ½”

Jacket

Vents

Breast Pocket

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Double Besom Double Besom with Flap Patch with FlapPatch

Jacket

Double Besom Patch with Half Hidden in Lower Pocket

Double Besom with Flap

Exterior Lower Pockets

Ticket Pockets

Page 14: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Pic Stitching

Straight 90° Small Slant 13° Mid Slant 20° Large Slant 33°

Slanted Pocket: 13° is standard if slanted is selected. Images represent the left jacket pocket

Available: Collar/Lapels/Front, Pocket Flap, Exterior Breast Pocket, Shoulder, Dart, Armhole Front, Armhole Back, Vent, Sleve Vent, Center Back, Side Back, Sleeve Back.

Jacket

Hidden Edge Pic ¼" Pic

Pocket Angles

Page 15: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Sleeve Buttonholes

Buttonhole Spacing

Jacket

None Imitation* Prepared for Functional Functional*

Kissing Stacked ⅛" Spacing ¼" Spacing

* 45° Buttonhole stitching is available on imitation and functional buttonholes.

Page 16: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Interior Breast Pockets

Additional Pockets Lower Interior Pockets

Jacket

Double Besom Double Besom with Button Through

Double Besom with Square Flap & Button

Phone Slanted Phone Pen

Available for Left, Right, or Both Available for Left or Right

Lower Card Double Besom

Lower Card Patch

Page 17: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Lining Placement Interior ShapeJacket

Full ½ Flat ½ Arched

⅓ Flat ⅓ Arched ¼

* ⅓ and ¼ lined options ONLY available for Tuscany tailoring grade

Classic Parallel Curved French Facing One Piece

Page 18: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Name Label Locations

T1

T3

B1

B3

Right Side OpenInterior

T2

T4

B2

B4

Left Side OpenInterior

T1 - Right Above Breast Pocket

T2 - Left Above Breast Pocket

T3 - Right Below Breast Pocket

T4 - Left Below Breast Pocket

B1 - Right Above Card Pocket

B2 - Left Above Card Pocket

B3 - Right Below Card Pocket

B4 - Left Below Card Pocket

Jacket

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Monogram Fonts

CaligraphyRockwell

Bradley

Jazz

Dom Casual

Outline

Times Roman

Block

Script

Copper Plate

Jacket

Only CAPITAL letters Only CAPITAL letters

Lowercase letters are CAPITALIZED

Page 20: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Formal - Jacket Options

Formal - Collars

Jacket

Available for Lapel, Collar, Breast Welt, Lower Pocket Cording

Shawl lapel not available on double breasted models.

Available for all jacket models

Page 21: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Trouser Models

Plain Front Single Pleat Double Pleat Triple Pleat

Trousers

Page 22: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Ordering the T-0T Pant

Plain Front Tailored

Trousers

(aka T-0T model)

The T-0T pant will now be the Plain Front Tailored pants with Plain Front being the model choice and Tailored being the block. Nothing about the physical T-0T pattern has changed, just the name.

Choose Plain Front Model

Choose Tailored Block

Page 23: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Waistband Extensions

Treatments

2" Point Extension Double Hook & Bar

Square Button Through 2" Round Extension Tabs with Double Button

Available Options: None, 2”, 2 1/2”, 3” (in Double Button, Double Hook and Bar Combinations)

Waistband Treatments are ONLY available when the following Interior Waistband Styles are selected: Waistband Without Curtain or Snugtex* Buckle available in Nickel or Coffee Bronze

Trousers

Square Side Tabs & Buttons Buckle Side Tabs* Buckle Side Tabs with Keepers*

Point SIde Tabs & Buttons Round Side Tabs & Buttons

Page 24: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Belt Loops

Belt Loop Construction

None 3/8" Double Loops3/8" Loops 1" Loops

Trousers

Grown On Loops Grown On Loops Top Stitch Grown On Loops Tacked Sewn In Loops*

* Sewn into Interior Waistband

Page 25: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Front Pockets

Back Pockets

Double Besom Double Besom with Button Through

Double Besom with Flap & Button

Double Besom with Point Tab & Button

Trousers

Side Seam Eighth Top Quarter Top Offset Double Besom

All Back Pockets are available for Left, Right, or Both sides

Page 26: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Hem

Unfinished 2" Plain Blind 3" Plain Blind

Cuffs 1 1/4" Cuffs 1 1/2" Cuffs 1 3/4" Cuffs 2"

1/2" Pic Stitch Rolled 1" Pic Stitch Rolled Small Tour Knotch Large Tour Knotch

Trousers

Page 27: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Waistband Styles Lining Placement

Waistband with Pleated CurtainIvory or Black

Waistband without CurtainIvory or Black

SnugtexIvory, Black, Fancy, or Premium Fancy

Casual SportExterior Fabric Only

Trousers

Front Only4” Below Knee

Front & Back4” Below Knee

Page 28: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Formal - PantsTrousers

Available for all models Available for Single Braid, Waistband, Back Pocket Cording

Page 29: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Three Button

Vest ModelsVest

Three Button Options

Collar: None

Lapels: None, Shawl

Bottom: Pointed

Five Button

Five Button Options

Collar: None, Half, Full

Lapels: None, Notch, Peak

Bottom: Pointed, Rounded

DB 6x3

DB 6x3 Options

Collar: None, Half

Lapels: None, Notch, Peak, Shawl*

Bottom: Straight

Available as Horseshoe modelAvailable as Horseshoe model

* Collar must be “None”

Page 30: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Welt Double Besom with Flap Patch

Upper Pockets

Backstrap

Lower Pockets

Vest

Welt (Left & Right) Double Besom with Flap Patch

BackstrapBuckle available in Nickel

Upper pockets not available on Horseshoe models

Page 31: STYLES...Shoulder Styles Notch Sharp Peak Peak Semi-Notch Semi-Peak Shawl Lapel widths (⅛” incriments): 2” minimum - 4 ½” maximum Shawl lapel widths: 2”, 2 ½”, and 3”

Formal - Vest OptionsVest

Available for Lapel, Collar, Breast Welt, Lower Pocket CordingAvailable for all models