Eyelet Shawl v3

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Eyelet Shawl 1 This top-down, triangular shawl has an all-over eyelet texture and simple lace border. It’s an easy and soothing knit, and is a suitable first-lace or first-shawl pattern. The samples were knit in Worsted/Aran weight yarn, but you can substitute anything you like, just keep knitting the eyelet section until it's the size you want, though remember your yardage requirements will change as well. To knit the lace edging as written, you need to end on a number that is 48 sts larger or smaller than those given in the pattern, e.g. the next divisible number would be 315 sts and the one after that 363. The shawl can be knit in two sizes. The smaller version shown in the original black and a larger version in red. Both versions are knit the same, you just start the lace edging at different points. Finished measurements after blocking Small shawl (black) - Approx 57 inches wide, 15 inches deep Large shawl (red) - Approx 80 inches wide, 24 inches deep

description

Knitting a nice shawl

Transcript of Eyelet Shawl v3

Page 1: Eyelet Shawl v3

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This top-down, triangular shawl has an all-over eyelet texture and simple lace border. It’s an easy and soothing knit, and is a suitable first-lace or first-shawl pattern.

The samples were knit in Worsted/Aran weight yarn, but you can substitute anything you like, just keep knitting the eyelet section until it's the size you want, though remember your yardage requirements will change as well. To knit the lace edging as written, you need to end on a number that is 48 sts larger or smaller than those given in the pattern, e.g. the next divisible number would be 315 sts and the one after that 363.

The shawl can be knit in two sizes. The smaller version shown in the original black and a larger version in red. Both versions are knit the same, you just start the lace edging at different points.

Finished measurements after blockingSmall shawl (black) - Approx 57 inches wide, 15 inches deepLarge shawl (red) - Approx 80 inches wide, 24 inches deep

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YarnBlack shawl - Malabrigo Worsted in Black Forest (2 skeins, approx 240yds)Red shawl - Malabrigo Rios in Jupiter (2 skeins, approx 350yds)

Needles5mm circular needles

GaugeNot that important but if in doubt, or if you are a tight knitter, go up a needle size.

NotionsTwo stitch markers

GlossaryCO - Cast OnK - KnitP - PurlYO - Yarn Over PM - Place MarkerSM - Slip MarkerSSK - Slip Slip Knit - slip one stitch to the right needle, slip the next likewise, knit both together through the backK2tog - Knit Two TogetherSKP - Slip the first stitch, knit the next two stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over

Set UpCO 3 sts1 - k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 (5 sts)2 - Knit (5)3 - k2, yo, pm, k1 (centre stitch), pm, yo, k2 (7)4 - k2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2 (9)5 - k2, yo, knit to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2 (13)6 - k2, yo, purl to last 2 sts, yo, k2 (15)

You will now begin the eyelet section. You will increase four stitches every right-side row and two stitches every wrong-side row. On every row you will knit the first and last two stitches, with a YO, to create the edging (keep these loose, it will make blocking easier as this is the line of stitches that will need to stretch the most). The eyelet row is every fourth row, and the pattern is an eight row repeat. On non-eyelet rows knit the knits and purl the purls, maintaining the YO at the edges and the centre spine.

When you have completed a few rows, the centre stitch should be clearly visible and you can remove the stitch markers if you wish. I have not referred to them beyond the first few rows as they do not move, just keep slipping them as you come to them, placing the centre YO on the outside edge of them.

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The first time I made this, I did it without planning ahead or writing anything down, just going on what looked right. Once you have established the pattern, you will see how the eyelets are staggered above each other on alternate rows. As long as you are maintaining that pattern, using the rows below as a guide, you may not even need to follow the exact instructions, just keep adding eyelets at the edges when you have enough stitches to fit them in.

Eyelets7 - k2, yo. K1, ssk, yo, k2, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2 (19)

8 (and all even rows) - k2, yo, purl to last 2 sts sm as you come to them, yo, k2 (21)

9 - k2, yo, knit to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2 (25)

11 - k2, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k4, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2 (31)

13 - As Row 9 (37)

15 - k2, yo, k3, ssk, yo, k4, ssk, yo, k6, yo, k1, yo, k6, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, k2 (43)

17 - As Row 9 (49)

19 - k2, yo, k4 (ssk, yo, k4) x 3, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 (k4, yo, k2tog) x 3, k4, yo, k2 (55)

21 - As Row 9 (61)

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23 - k2, yo, k5, (ssk, yo, k4) x 4, yo, k1, yo, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 4, k5, yo, k2 (67)

25 - As Row 9 (73)

27 - k2, yo, k6 (ssk, yo, k4) x 4, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 4, k6, yo, k2 (79)

29 - As Row 9 (85)

31 - k2, yo, k1, (ssk, yo, k4) x 6, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo k2tog, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 6, k1, yo, k2 (91)

33 - As Row 9 (97)

35 - k2, yo, k2, (ssk, yo, k4) x 7, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 7, k2, yo, k2 (103)

37 - As Row 9 (109)

39 - k2, yo, k3, (ssk, yo, k4) x 8, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2 (k4, yo, k2tog) x 8, k3, yo, k2 (115)

41 - as row 9 (121)

43 - k2, yo, k4 (ssk, yo, k4) x 9, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 9, k4, yo, k2 (127)

45 - as row 9 (133)

47 - k2, yo, k5, (ssk, yo, k4) x 10, yo, k1, yo, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 10, k5, yo, k2 (139)

49 - as row 9 (145)

51 - k2, yo, k6, (ssk, yo, k4) x 10, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 10, k6, yo, k2 (151)

53 - as row 9 (157)

55 - k2, yo, k1, (ssk, yo, k4) x 12, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 12, k1, yo, k2 (163)

57 - As row 9 (169)

59 - k2, yo, k2 (ssk, yo, k4) x 13, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2tog (k4, yo, k2tog) x 13, k2, yo, k2 (175)

61 - As row 9 (181)

63 - k2, yo, k3, (ssk, yo, k4) x 14, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 14, k3, yo, k2 (187)

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65 - As row 9 (193)

67 - k2, yo, k4, (ssk, yo, k4) x 15, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 15, k4, yo, k2 (199)

69 - As row 9 (205)

71 - k2, yo, k5 (ssk, yo, k4) x 16, yo, k1, yo, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 16, k5, yo, k2 (211)

73 - As row 9 (217)

For small shawl only - stop at end of row 74 (219)

For large shawl continue below

75 - k2, yo, k6 (ssk, yo, k4) x 16, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 16, k6, yo, k2 (223)

77 - As row 9 (229)

79 - k2, yo, k1, (ssk, yo, k4) x 18, ssk, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 18, k1, yo, k2 (235)

81 - As row 9 (241)

83 - k2, yo, k2, (ssk, yo, k4) x 19, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 19, k2, yo, k2 (247)

85 - As row 9 (253)

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87 - k2, yo, k3, (ssk, yo, k4) x 20, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, (k4, yo, k2tog) x 20, k3, yo, k2 (259)

89 - As row 9 (265)

End on row 90, 267 sts, proceed to lace edging.

Lace Edging

Your stitch count should remain the same until you reach row 9.

Small shawl, 219 stsLarge shawl 267 sts

1 - k2, (yo, k2, skp, k2, yo, k1) to last stitch, k1

2 - k2, p to last 2 sts, k2

3 - As row 1

4 - As row 2

5 - As row 1

6 - As row 2

7 - As row 1

8 - As row 2

9 - k2 (yo, k7, yo, k1) to last stitch, k1

10 - As row 2

11 - Cast off very loosely, using a larger needle and your preferred elastic cast off method.

Suggested cast off: k1, *k1, slip two stitches back to left needle, k2tog through the back loop* repeat to end.

Blocking

You will need to block your shawl quite aggressively. Wet block it by submerging it in tepid water for at least ten minutes. Roll it in a towel or three to remove as much moisture as possible. Stretch it out along the top, straight edge until you reach the desired wingspan and pin it in place. To create points along the lower edges, pull down and pin each pair of eyelets along the lace border. These have quite a lot of stretch to them, I usually start in the middle and work my way out.

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When the shawl is dry, wear with pride!

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