STYLES IN SLEEVES DECEIVED THE SHADOWS BOTH SIMPLE … · 2017-12-16 · Plain and Tucked Bishop....
Transcript of STYLES IN SLEEVES DECEIVED THE SHADOWS BOTH SIMPLE … · 2017-12-16 · Plain and Tucked Bishop....
![Page 1: STYLES IN SLEEVES DECEIVED THE SHADOWS BOTH SIMPLE … · 2017-12-16 · Plain and Tucked Bishop. by thin women. Truth to tell, the thin woman has it still all her own way, for itis](https://reader033.fdocuments.in/reader033/viewer/2022060303/5f08c2847e708231d4239647/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
Plain and Tucked Bishop.
by thin women. Truth to tell, thethin woman has it still all her ownway, for it is no use to pretend thatthe statue-like draperies of fine dressand the chopped-up effects of mediumdress are for any but sylph-like fig-ures.
The bishop sleeve in all its ramifi-cations is here shown, any one of themodels or all of them being especiallysuited to house dresses of every de-scription. In the group are dis-played very graceful effects for teagowns, flannel shirt waists and littledressy odd bodices in soft mulls orsilks or lace. The sleeve with thecap and cuff could also be used forthe most stylish cloth gown, and thecombination gives ideas for the usingup of materials on hand which maybe in good condition.
The group of sleeves displays thevarious methods of treating the bot-tom of the long shoulder cap and suchwrist finishes as would go with thesoft puff that hangs below it. Halfa glance would tell anybody fairlygifted with the needle that sleeves inthis style present unnumbered possi-bilities for making old sleeves intonew. The cap and cuff should be ofthe bodice material, but any lace, netor cream, would do for the puff.
SAME COLOR AS THE SKIRTThis Is the Latest Edict of Fashion
in the Matter of the SeparateWaist.
Since a one-toned costume adds anappearance of height, Dame Fashionnow decrees that the separate waistshall be of the same color as the skirt,whether it be of net, chiffon, silk orany other material, and that its trim-ming be an exact match. Nets of allkinds are among the novelties of theseason, and net bands handsomely em-broidered in a floss or straw when ona waist of the same color, look asthough the pattern were done on thewaist itself. Another device is flow-ers embroidered in dull colors hereand there on ecru lace. Old rose,delft blue and green are seen on thesame design. Narrow stripes are thenewest style for tailored waists, withnet stocks strapped over the whale-bone with bands of the striped mate-rial and bow to match at the throat.Small neckties are also seen. Thetie worn on waists which go undera jumper is a long, narrow cravatcaught at the neck with an ornament,the untied ends being finished withpendants.
When the tongue is slightly coatedtake a charcoal tablet dissolved inwater before breakfast. This is easyto take; it cleanses the stomach andsweetens the breath.
An excellent powder for tenderskins is easily made from corn starchmoistened with enough pure alcoholto make a stiff paste. When hard itmay be powdered easily.
When someone is burned or scald-ed apply the white of a raw egg tothe wound. It is soothing and cool-ing, and if applied at once will relievethe stinging pain and prevent inflam-mation.
For a dark, rough skin take a hotbath every night before retiring, usinga bath brush and. a bland soap. Scrubfrom the chin the toes and dry.While the body is moist, massage witha good cold cream. In the morningtake a cold sponge bath and dry witha Turkish towel. Eat no greasy orTried food.
A bit of lemon juice squeezed into ateaspoonful of glycerin will give reliefto an irritated throat. A gargle ofwater and common baking soda willgive relief in a short time. If aslight irritation is noticed, put into acup of cold water a teaspoonful ofsoda and three drops of carbolic acid.Gargle the throat. This is a reliableand speedy cure.
DECEIVED BY THE SHADOWSDiscovery That Must Have Come as a
Great Relief to the YoungLawyer.
One rainy day recently, a younglawyer, thinking he would like to takea little flyer in stocks, called at theoffice of his broker, who happened tobe his most intimate friend. Whenhe reached the office anew clerkwhom he had never seen before toldhim that the broker was engaged, butwould be at liberty in a few minutes.While sitting idly in the waiting room”e young lawyer noticed somethingf hat made his eyes almost drop out.The gloom of the day necessitated theuse of artificial light in the broker’sPrivate office. Silhouetted upon theground glass partition between thetwo rooms the lawyer saw the shad-ows of a man and a woman. Theywere both seated, the broker at hisdesk and the woman beside and fac-ing him. Every moment or so thelips of the shadows seemed to meetaffectionately. Something about theprofile of the woman struck the law-yer as strangely familiar. He roseinstantly and threw open the door,lure enough it was his wife, but shewas sitting decorously in a chair twoor three feet from the broker, butilinost in line with him, engaged in
n an'mated discussion.Foth lookeef up at the intrusion, but
without the least embarrassment.“Why, hello, Tom!” exclaimed the
broker. “Your wife here thinks shewould like to speculate a little, too,nd I've been using all my eloquence
l o dissuade her from it. What’s thematter? Are you ill?”
“No,” answered the lawyer, as he'’cured" into a chair with an air ofruk relief. “My eyes have beenbo hering me a good deal to-day. Doyou know a good oculist?”
~uILT TO DEFY EARTHQUAKESTree Hemes of Mexico Made of
Twigs and Grass InterwovenWith Branches.
Tn order to protect their homes■ om earthquakes many of the nativesn the territory around Chilpancingo
and other towns in the State of Guer-’•cro, Mexico, live in trees. Some ofhese tree homes are of large size
jnd are ingeniously constructed.Reeds and grasses are interwovenwith the twigs and branches of thetree, much in the manner that a birdbunds its neat.
The severest wind seldom loosesthese houses from the tree. Wherethe trees are large and stand closelytogether houses of two and threerooms are frequently built in theirbranches. These houses also affordprotection from the “tigers” and oth-er wild animals which are found in?.at region in large numbers. It is
claimed that a “tiger” will not attackits prey unless it is upon the ground.The prime object of elevating thesehouses into the trees, however, is tokeep them from being shaken downby the severe earthquakes which visitthe Guerrero territory at frequent in-tervals.
The rocking of the earth gives thetrees a swaying motion that does nodamage to the houses. In some local-ities whole villages of these treehomes are to be seen. None of themsuffered damage from the recentearthquakes which wrought such ruinto the buildings on the ground.
She Was Not Engaged.A book agent rapped at the door of
a cottage occupied by an Irish widow,and, as she half opened the door, heinquired:
“Are you the lady of the house?”“Oi am, sor,” she replied.“If you are not engaged I would
like to see you a few minutes,” re-marked the agent as he started toworm his way through the opening.
“Indade, Oi’m not engaged, an’ it’snawt the loikes o’ ye, an entoirstranger, thawt kin be rankin’ love toa poor lone widdy six wakes afthershe’s buried her fursht husband,” wasthe emphatic response, as she slammedthe door in his face.
Gasping for breath, the agent madefor the street, reflecting upon the un-certain meaning of the English lan-guage.—Judge.
Texas in Unique Position.Except the original 13 states, whose
independence was separately acknowl-edged by Great Britain, Texas is theonly state which had separate exist-ence as a nation before it became astate of the union. It is the only oneof the admitted states, with the pos-sible exception of Vermont and Maine,which by the conditions of its admis-sion reserved state ownership for allthe public lands within its limits. Itis the only state which before enter-ing the union had obtained the con-sent of congress to subdivide itselfinto a number of new states.
Value of Tears.Certain bacteriologists have been
enlightening the public as to the valueof tears. A good cry, they say, thatwashes the face with tears is an ex-cellent antiseptic bath. Owing to thelarge percentage of sodium, chloride,or common salt, which they containthey sterilize the delicate mechanismof the eye and render harmless thebacili which may have found lodgmenton the cheeks.
r-At Five O’clock Tea.
“And did you really go to Rome?”asked a guest.
“I really don’t know, my dear,” re-plied the hostess. Just returned fromher first trip abroad. “You see, myhusband always bought the tickets.”—London Opinion.
supplied by stitching: In light and un-usual colors of serge or cheviot thiscostume, because of its extreme sim-plicity, would be even more effective.Cloth also of the light weight now somuch used would develop extremelywell in this style, and especially inone of the attractive new reds.
POINTS OF THE FALL BLOUSESome Things That the Amateur Maker
Must Be Careful Notto Forget.
Several little new points havebobbed up for the amateur maker ofthe new fall blouse. She will recog-nize in them, first, the renewed sanc-tion of the shirt waist. So long asthe coat suit exists and is renewedand improved upon (as in the comingfall models), the blouse will springforth with some fresh touch.
A tendency exists in favor of a longshoulder line, whether it be got bythe actual cut or the trimming.
The banded bishop sleeve will prob-ably be a favorite in the lingerieblouse.
The sheer frill in front of the heav-ier blouse will most frequently beused down the left side or crossmgfrom the left shoulder to the waistline.
Yokes of light-weight linen are tobe introduced in some of the heavierlinen blouses and the collar in allgarments of the better quality is tobe made to match it. This last is, nodoubt, a natural turning away fromthe low-priced separate collar.
COLORS THAT SUIT~CHILORENMost Effective Combinations Can Be
Made by Use of Simple Blackand White.
Perhaps the most effective colors—
if colors we may call them—for thesmall child are black and white. It isa nice relief when you have tired ofthe all-white proposition to get a shep-herd’s plaid coat to be worn with thesheer white frock and black shoes andstockings. The large panama hat. inkeeping with this effective outfitshould be draped with a loosly tiedscarf of black satin dotted with whitespots an inch and a half in diameter.
Paris is recommending the scarf asa hat trimming, and it is sent overhere in black, blue and scarlet, withwhite disks sprinkled over its satinsurface.
The plan of providing two differenttrimmings for the same hat may beadmirably accomplished by the use oftwo colored scarfs, and they will beno stumbling block to the amateur,as the scarf means simply the tyingof a bow\
The Boy’s Room.In decorating a small boy’s room,
cover the walls with peacock blue fab-ric paper. It is a good color and thepaper can be obtained in Scotch plaid.For the frieze select an Indian canoescene, which will be green and yellow.The ceiling should be a green-white.Cover the brass bed with a greencounterpane and have either a bolsterof the same or pillows. The rugshould be green and ran. A smallmission table and chair should be inthe room. Do not place many picturesin the room.
Of a Green Color.Green is being pressed as a color
for autumn; the olive and soft shadesfor street wear, and pale green forevening gowns. The green beaver batof a remarkable velvet softness isheralded in an alpine shape, trimmedwith one huge cabochon of wide rib-bon in the same green.
Beogaline.IJengaline now comes in fancy
weaves that are wondrously prettyand odd. Some of the patterns resem-ble brocade, and the colorings are softand beautifully blended. They makestriking theater blouses and need notrimming except a chemisette of whiteor cream lace.
KEEP LANGUAGE AND CUSTOMSDutch Impress Clearly Visible Among
Inhabitants of Old VillagesUp the Hudson.
Dutch language and customs stillprevail to a surprising extent in theold villages up the Hudson, accordingto Peter C. Barker of Buffalo, N. Y.
“The modern housekeeper from thecity,” said Mr, Barker, “who takes apicturesque dwelling, built about 1690,for a summer home, is confronted bysome bewildering conditions. Firstamong these are words of one pronun-ciation in Dutch and English, but oftotally different meaning. For in-stance, her ‘help’ obtained from thevillage will probably glance about thekitchen after finishing her morning’swT ork, and chant in a sing-song thatmight be pointed off thus; T ain'tdone no work—what I meant to an—-and mswnin’—yet. An’—I’ll jus’ fileup the kitchen floor. To the mistress’surprise the ‘file’ proves to be a mop,‘file’ being old Dutch for any bit ofcloth used for cleaning, from a washcloth to a floor cloth.
“Another evidence of descent is theuse made of water. The old houseswere invariably located* where advan-tage might be taken of a runningstream, no matter how small. At apoint near the kitchen door this wr asdammed, a wT ater w’heel inserted, andpower obtained for the churn or turn-spit. To-day this power equals a mo-tor for running an ice-cream freezer,a sewing machine, an egg beater or acoffee mill.”
WHAT SHE WAS WAITING FORFlat Dweller’s Passing On of Discom-
fort She Endured Had MethodBehind It.
The flat dweller hardly recognizedthe janitor, he was so polite, so mod-est, so self-effacing, as it were, as hestood at the door, his hat in his hand.
“Is your kitchen still leaking?” heasked her softly.
“Still leaking!” she replied withscorn. It has been leaking a year,ever since she moved up-stairs.
“May I come in and look at it?” stillmore softly asked the janitor.
She opened the door wide. He en-tered. He stood in the kitchen, look-ing up at the ceiling, at several holesthrough which the water came patter-ing, at the disfiguring splotches madeby the leaks that had been leaking ayear.
“It does leak, doesn’t it?” hequeried.
It wTas too much. The flat dwellerwent to washing her breakfast dishesleft over in the sink.
“Would you like a large tub?” askedthe janitor presently, when he ob-served that some of the leaks splashedon the floor. “Because the water isgoing into the next floor and spoilingthe ceiling there.”
“No, I thank you,” answered the flatdweller politely, still at her dishes, “Iam leaving it like that purposely. I’vestood it a year. If the people belowhave to stand it for another year may-be they’ll make you mend the roof.”
M isplaced.A young mother has just been deep-
ly shocked as the result of her at-tempted religious instruction to herfive-year-old daughter. The vehicle se-lected as her favorite illustration inthese teachings was a picture of the“Madonna and Child” in the librarywr all. What she actually succeeded infixing in the youngster’s brain wasthat the supreme being whose picturehung before them was strictly a resi-dent of churches and ever to be spok-en of with bated breath.
So much accomplished, the childwas taken on a shopping expeditionScarcely were they across the thresh-old before the young mother wasbrought to a crimson-faced standstillby her little daughter’s horrified whisper; “Oh, mamma!” as she pointedto a counter full of pictures, “Whatis God doing in the'Ten-cent store?”
No Cheap Resorts Near Paris.It is a remarkable thing, but in the
near neighborhood of Paris there arebut very few places where one can goand spend a cheap holiday, and takeone’s family. For one thing, milk isalways difficult to get in countryplaces; it is all sent to the nearesttown or the ground is cultivated. Pas-ture land is rare in France, and milkis dear. The same with the fruit andvegetables—they all go away to thetowns. Apropos of this, there is abutcher in Barbizon who enjoys aunique position. He is the only onewithin five or six miles, and if yougrumble at him, he says, “The tram-way leaves in two hours; see if youcan get better in the next town—ortry the forest, if my meat doesn’tplease you!”
Would Have Astonished Fulton.It costs about a cent and a half a
pound to ship American merchandisefrom New York to Trebizond, an out-of-the-way port on the Black sea,5,000 miles, or thereabouts, from theUnited States. Then it costs 15 centsa pound to carry the same freight bycaravan, from Trebizond to Tabriz,the chief commercial center of Persia,a distance of 600 miles. Fulton neverrealized how much his invention wasdestined to beat camels and horsesIn cheap transportation.
Weeding Out the Dead Material.“We talk about reviving the sport
of the arena in our town,”‘lndeed?”“Sure. Some day are going to
herd all of our mossbacked near citi-zens together and have a grand kill-ing.”—Cleveland Plain Dealer.
SUITINGS ARE MANYFASHION OFFERS WIDE VARIETY
TO SELECT FROM.
Broadcloth Is Still in Favor, withIts Many Grades and Colorings—
Venetian One of the MostServiceable of Materials.
In suitings the incoming season of-fers much of interest. Broadcloths, asusual, are first in the field, and thenumber of their grades and coloringsis legion. The better ones are lus-trous and soft, and while the finish isnot quite so shining, it is richer. Ven-etian, come into Its own again, is oneof the most serviceable ©f materials,and bound to be used more generallyfor home gowns than when it was “in”before. It is not quite so expensiveas broadcloth, inasmuch as a medium-priced Venetian is infinitely to be pre-ferred to the moderate-priced broad-cloth. In the winter we shall have areturn of velvets, velveteens, and cord-uroys, and their use will by no meansbe restricted either to suits or togowns, but each will find a place forboth these pm poses, as well as in theline of tr .mmings, millinery and dress.
After the broadcloths and Venetiansthere art the lovely old camelshairand zibelines, but as both of them areexpensive and not duplicated incheaper grades, they are likely to re-main the exclusive fabrics they havealways been. They are,though, neitherof them very similar to the originalweaves, for the hairy appearance ison the underside, while the right sideis smooth in the zibeline like a chif-fon broadcloth, and the same in thecamelshair except that it has an al-most imperceptible crepe suggestionto it.
For the more ordinary suits theheavy cottons will be favored, but inthe worsteds English serge and cer-tain of the domestic ones deserve firstconsideration. Diagonal corded sergeand the chevron stripe will be seen,but the plain, heavy, even-ribbed Lon-don variety is more desirable, and,whatever novelties are offered fromyear to year, is always smart.
Cheviots are back, and with theirold-time swing. They show decidedimprovement over their predecessors,being more pliable and of finer tex-ture, and there seems to be no endto the variety of design that is in-cluded in the novelty effects.
HAVE THE COAT INTERLINEDTailoring T ; p That May Be of Service
to Those Ordering WinterWraps.
Many persons ordering an autumnsuit and intending it to do dutythroughout the winter prefer a medi-um-w'eight material, sufficiently inter-lined, to that heavier quality whichlooks too rough and ready for theearly fall days.
Women will endure the excess ofwarmth long before winter makes itnecessary, but they will not put upwith a coat too wintery in appearance.Just by way of suggestion, it ought tobe generally known that wThite, wr oolyfelt, wr hich is so generally used forinterlining, has, in its loosely wr ovenfabric, great numbers of long whitehairs which gradually work their waythrough the cloth to the surface. Theconstant picking out of these hairscan be obviated by the use of darkfelt ftiterlinings, and, although alltailors object most seriously to unpro-fessional interference, it is well toknow an occasional thing and to in-sist.
FOR BETWEEN SEASONS.
Flower toques are always broughtforth at this time of the year, princi-pally for southern tourists. They arealso worn in the north during thelate winter season and early spring.This is one of the new turban shapes,covered with white tulle. Around thehigh crown is a band of black velvetribbon, on top of which is placed awreath of large pink roses withoutfoliage. This model makes an idealhat for afternoon affairs.
New Belting.White silk moire belting, embroi-
dered with colored dots the size of adime, is shown in the big shops, and isvery attractive for wear with whiteiinen skirts and separate lingerieblouses.
The dots are in all colors, and arematched up in the satin cravat to com-plete the color scheme.
Jet and Gold Dinner Frocks.The dinner dresses favored by most
wealthy Americans, and foreignersgenerally, are ablaze with jet or goldin compact masses. The glittering em-oroideries appear partly in beads,partly in spangles and cabochons ofill sizes.—From the Gentlewoman,
WORK OF THE GENEALOGISTHl* Compensation Depends on Hf#
Being Able to Get Up a ReallyHandsome Family Tree.
The principal workers from the out-side in the library of congress arethose who are hunting up genealogies.They begin early and work late at thistask, and they are paid variously, ac-cording to the genealogies they workout, declares the Washington Herald.
“To trace down an ordinary genealo-gy,” said one of these researchers theother day, “I receive S2O, but if I amable to procure a real, handsome gen-ealogy with a duke or a baron or atouch of royalty in it, then I get al-most any price my conscience allowsme to charge. One American family
nowr don't be curious, because thofamily happens to live outside ofWashington—gave me SSOO for gettingup a lovely family tree for them,which included the privilege of usinga coat of arms with royal quartering*,I believe they were called down forusing this coat of arms in England,and so they lay it aside when they arein Europe; but in America it appearsin great splendor on their stationery,,carriage doors and table linen, and itis said the women of the family haveit embroidered on their lingerie, beingunaware of the fact that the distaffside of the family are not entitled tothe coat of arms, but only the quarter*ings of their father’s and mother’*arms on a lozenge. Don’t pity the poorgenealogist, for we are probably aswell paid for our work as any of thosewho must work for a living.”
HOW HE SAVED THE CIRCUSWonderful Story Put Up by Owner
Called Forth High Complimentfrom Editor.
Willis Cobb the circus man told thisstory:
Years ago he was traveling throughI the south with a wTagon tent show
I and the press agent among other glow7-
ing accounts of “w7 hat’s coming,” an-nounced a “herd of 20 camels from thesandy desert of Arabia.”
When the show reached towm, in-stead of 20, there was but one sicklycamel. Some of the country newspa-pers paid no attention to this slightdiscrepancy, but when Cobb entered
j the office of a Georgia country ecMtorhe was mad enough to fight.
“I saw your parade, sah,” said he,“and you lied to our people. I’ve agood mind to roast you. Where areyour 20 camels you made my papersay you’ve got in your show?”
“I’ll tell you how it w Tas,” explainedCobb. “When we passed the swampon the way here it wy as full of alliga-tors, and without the slightest warn-ing they leaped upon the bank anddevoured all but one of the camels.We put up a brave fight, but it wasno use.”
The editor gazed at Willis a coupleof minutes and then said: “You’rea good one. You ought to be a Geor-gia editor. Come out to my house todinner to-day. I want to introducemy wife to the biggest liar on earth.She’ll be glad to meet you.”
Office Femininity.“Women may flaunt their independ-
ence as much as they like,” said theobservant man, “but they seldomlose their femininity. If you take alook at those stenographers and type-writers w7 ho nestle about in everydowntowm office, you wall find thembetween business hours at work onsome little thing they would havedone if they had been at home, apiece of embroidery, a doilie, hem-stitching a handkerchief or embroid-ering a centerpiece or something. Thetop drawer of their desk is alwaysfull of feminine things, needles andthread and scissors. In fact, there arevery few of them that I have seenwT ho don’t make their part of the of-fice, in spite of their work, as muchlike home as possible.”—New YorkTimes,
Wonderful Clocks.Five wheels and a small battery
virtually consitute the mechanism of awmnderful clock just invented in Eng-land. It wall run three years withoutattention, and at the end of that timeall that is required is to attach anewbattery.
Another new7 English clock enablesthe possessor to ascertain at a glancethe mean time, the meridian and rela-tive position of every part of the em-pire, besides being able to witness theactual speed and direction of theearth’s rotation. The motive power isa clock in the base of the stand, andthe apparatus requires winding onlyonce a wr eek.
Plausible Explanation.The depot of Meridian, Tex., is about
a mile from the business part of thetowm. One night a sleepy, weary trav-eling man said to the darky who wasdriving him to the hotel;
“Old man, why in the name ofheaven did they put this depot so farfrom town?”
The darky scratched his head inthought, and replied:
“Waal, boss, I’s fo’ced to admit datI hasn’t give de matter s’ficient cogi-tation, but jes‘ jumped up fer a answerlike dis, I s’pose dey done dat so as tohave de depot as near as possible tode railroad.”—Lippincott’s.
Elvira’s Way.The teacher (reading)—"Then the
girl warrior faced the mocking foeand unsheathed her deadly weapon.”What does that mean, children? WellElvira?
Elvira—Please, ma’am, I think if-mean* she stuck out her tongue,—•-Cleveland Plain Dealer. .■
STYLES IN SLEEVESREVIVAL OF THE BISHOP TYPE IS
NOTED.
Model Is Especially Suited to HouseDresses —Here Again the Thin
Woman Is Given a DistinctAdvantage.
Bishop sleeves they are called, asthey were then, and under 4hls namethe arm coverings definitely recallsome revivals o.c a dozen years*ago.
For soft materials, these gatheredsleeves, with their loose limply hang-ing puffs and pretty shoulder caps, aremost charming and suitable, and, asthey possess a certain aesthetic grace,they doubtless will be much favored
BOTH SIMPLE AND EFFECTIVEUseful Costume That May Be Made
Up in Serge or SimilarMaterial.
For a useful and smart costume ofserge or similar material an attrac-tive new design is shown. The orig-.nal model was of dark blue serge witha, shawl collar and cuffs of black satin.The design is unique among the sea-son’s styles for serge suits in that it!ias no braid trimming, the place being