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ASSIGNMENT

OF

MERCHANDIZING

TOPIC: TEXTILE PROCESSES

NAME: SYED ASIM NAJAMCLASS: BS-T VIII

SUBMITTED TO: SIR KAISER

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YARN MANUFACTURING

YARN COUNT:The yarn count expresses the thickness of the yarn, and must be known before calculating thequantity of yarns for a known length of fabric. The yarn count number indicates the length of yarnin relation to the weight.

Commonly used Yarn Counts:CountFiber

840 Cotton, spun silk, rayon and acetate

300 Wool (cut system)

560 Worsted wool (spun system)

1600Wool (run system)

300 Linen, hemp, jute and ramie

STAPLE LENGTH:The length of the individual fibers of cotton. The length of the fibers affects the quality of the fabricthat is made from it. The longer being the higher quality yarn characterized in a softer morelustrous fiber and the shorter being lower quality or coarser.

WEAVING

Weaving :Weaving is the most common method used for producing fabrics. The process iscarried out of two sets of threads, which interlaces lengthwise yarns (warp yarns) with widthwiseones (weft or filling yarns).

Plain: In the plain weave the woof thread runs under and over the warp, and the warp threadsrun over and under the next woof threads.Basket: In order to produce this effect, this cloth cannot be woven tightly. It leaves the threadsquite looseCross Weave: In this type of weave, extra warp threads are added to the regular plain weaveand they are pulled from one side to the other

Lappet: This is a very interesting type of weave. By means of a small mechanical device on theloom, dots or figures are woven into the material.Twill:Where durability and strength are desired, the twill weave is employed.Satin: Satin Weave has more threads on the surface than any other weave. It is used in fabrics ofhigh luster.

Figure: The most important figure weave is damask.Linen: A fabric woven with fiber of flax plant.Khaki: A sturdy cloth of a yellowish brown color especially used for military.

KNITTING

Knitting: In knitting fabric is formed through interlocking series of yarn loops. Rows of stitchesare formed so that each row hangs on the row behind it, usually using sophisticated, high-speedmachinery.Double knit a knit fabric similar to jersey that is made with two sets of needles producing a doublethickness joined by interlocking stitches

Jersey a slightly elastic machine-knit fabric

Stockinet, stockinette knit used especially for infants' wear and undergarments

Tricot a knitted fabric or one resembling knitting

Warp knitting: Warp knitting is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the lengthof the fabric.

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DYEING

Reactive dye: Reactive dye- a dye which attaches to the fiber by forming a covalentbond; alsocalled fibre reactive dye. Reactive dyes are known for their bright colors and very good toexcellent lightfastness and washfastness, though poor resistance to chlorine bleach. There areseveral broad classes of reactive dyes. Most are intended forcellulose fiber.Pigment: Pigment- a colored substance that is insoluble in water, usually in the form of a finepowderPigments are used to color many types of paint, including some textile paints, and almostall inks used for screen printing (silkscreen printing).Disperse dye: Disperse dye- a dye that is almost totally insoluble in water. Disperse dyes existin the dye bath as a suspension or dispersion of microscopic particles, with only a tiny amount intrue solution at any time. They are the only dyes that are effective for normalpolyester.Garment dye: Garment dye is dye used to color garments. It is used in the garment dyeingprocess, in which finished garments are colored with the use of dye. In the garment industry,garment dyeing is highly flexible and useful type of dyeing. This process can be used to createcustom garments for specific events, and also to create stock to respond to demands forparticular colors and styles.

Vat Dyes: The term vat dyes relates to dyes of any chemical class that are applied by the vatprocess. The dyes are insoluble in water and cannot be used directly for dyeing, but on reductionto a leuco form they become soluble in presence of an alkali and acquire affinity for cellulosicfibers.Sulfur dyes: Sulfur dyes are the most commonly used dyes manufactured forcotton in terms ofvolume. They are cheap, generally have good wash-fastness and are easy to apply. The generaldisadvantage of the Sulphur dyes that they produce dull shades and lack a red. The mainadvantage lays in their cheapness, ease of application and good wash-fastness.The use ofSulphur dyes is restricted to dull brown, Khaki and Navy shades

PRINTING

Rotary screen printing

Rotary screen printing involves a series of revolving screens, each with revolving screens, eachwith a stationary squeegee inside which forces the print paste onto the fabric. Twenty or morecolours can be printed at the same time. The process is much quicker and more efficient than flatscreen printing. Since the 1970s it has grown to dominate the textile printing market.

Reactive dye printingReactive dye printing is a method of printing a dye orwax by using mixes there of to createcolors. With a binder and a heat-activated printing additive, images can be permanently bondedto the substrate (typically textiles, but can include cellulose, fibers, polyester, and even proteins).These reactions are generally heat-activated.

TABLE PRINTING:Flock PrintingA third printing technique is known as flock printing. Here an adhesive is printed in a design on

the fabric. Next, the fabric is covered with cut fiber known as flock. The fiber is then embedded inthe adhesive by one of various techniques such as compressed air, the shaking process, or theelectrostatic process. Once the fiber is embedded in the resin, the resin is cured to firmly fix thefiber. This technique produces a three-dimensional pile surface effect in a specific design on thefabric.

PigmentsPigments are widely used in textile printing, with about 45% of all textile prints produced usingpigments. Unlike dyes, they do not directly associate with the textile fibres but are fixed to the

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textile with a so-called binding agent. The binding agent is usually a copolymer which isincorporated into the printing paste and forms a three-dimensional film when heated.

Heat transfer printing:Heat transfer printing is a technique where paper is printed, followed by the transfer of the designfrom the paper onto the textile fabric. The design on the paper is placed onto the fabric, heated sothat the pigment binder softens, releases from the paper, and adheres to the fabric. This releasetemperature is usually around 400F (205C).

FINISHING

Softening:Sulfonated oils, sulfated tallow, glycerin, dextrin or sulfated alcohols are applied to fabrics tomake them softer with a more desirable feel and, often, more absorbent.Sanforizing:It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, beforecutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing.

Peaching:A technique that creates a feel that is soft to the touch, peaching is a relatively easy way to creatematerial that can be used in a number of different ways.Panel Wash:Foe knitted fabrics whose shrinkage cant controlled even by compaction and sanforizing.Singeing:Singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning offprojecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over agas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding materialwithout scorching or burning the yarn or fabric.Compaction:Compressive treatment of knitted fabrics is a simple process whereby the lengthwise stitches of the fabricare mechanically compacted.