Shed Building 2 · 2020. 5. 1. · Shed Building 2.0 Custom 8’ by 8’ by 8’ Shed Plans...

Shed Building 2.0Custom 8’ by 8’ by 8’ Shed Plans

Designed for

Sheds of Hope

Shed provided by Local Churches for Sheds of HopeDesigned by John Browne

With or Without the Use of a Sheds of Hope SmartBench

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Building Sheds for Disaster Victims

Sheds of Hope Teams have built over 1000 sheds for families. You can help during the next di-saster. Here’s a way that your group can help, whether it’s in Oklahoma or your own community.

Any Size Group or Church Can HelpShedsOfHope.com is providing a free plan to help groups pre-build panels for sheds that can be assembled by teams at the disaster site. The plan will enable you to cut, prepare, and assemble 2, 4, or 6 sheds at a time, depending on how many helpers you can gather. A church parking lot is an ideal location for doing the work. Just build and flat-stack the panels for each shed.

A material list is provided and the church or group can order these materials from their lo-cal lumber yards. The idea is to build the sections, floor, walls and roof trusses. These can be shipped flat to a disaster site and assembled on site. You can arrange for Sheds of Hope to pick up and transport the pre-built panels to the site, where volunteers will assemble them on the homeowner’s property.

Step 1. Download a Free PDF Shed Kit instructions from ShedsOfHope.com. This will provide you with…

The material order list for 1 or 2 shedsInstructions on how to build your shed at your churchInstructions on how to set up the shed at the site

Step 2. Have a fund raiser for the sheds (allow)Material for 1 Shed allow $1,100 + $200 for pick-up and delivery – total $1,300Material for 2 Sheds allow $2,200 + $250 for pick-up and delivery – total $2,450Material for 4 Sheds allow $4,400 + $300 for pick-up and delivery – total $4,700

Step 3. Arrange a work day at the church. 8 to 16 people who know what they are doing could build 2 sheds in a day. Don’t try and do too much in one day.

Get a Group to Build Sheds

Organize Teams of 6 to 8 People for Each Shed

1 person to help organize the material during cutting and measuring1 person to do the cutting (measure twice cut once.) This should only be done by someone who knows what they are doing – This is NOT a training day to help people learn how to use a Miter Saw!!!!!!1 person reading out the instructions for the people putting the parts together (a seat with an um-brella and cold drink would also be needed for this person)4 or 5 building the parts for each shed

Tools Needed That Can Be Shared by All Teams1 Miter Saw (you could set up and share this for all the teams). Remember: This should only be used by someone who knows what they are doing – This is NOT a training day to help people learn how to use a Miter Saw!!!!!!1 skill saw (at least one for all the teams to share) This should only be used by someone who know what they are doing – This is NOT a training day to help people learn how to use a skill saw!!!!!!

Tools Needed Per TeamEveryone have their own tape measure and pencil5 drills with battery chargers and a 2in T25 driver bit 2 hand squares2 hammersChalk lineLevel

Before Moving ForwardMake sure you are using the latest version of John’s Shed Instructions. This is a work in progress. Check the version number on this booklet with the one on https://shedsofhope.com

Let’s talk! Share the Love…John Browne

Tools Needed To Pre-Cut Material List

2 People who know how to use a Miter Saw

2 People who know how to use a Circular Saw

Use All Tools According to the Guidelines in the Owner’s Manual

When you see this Blue Bar across the top of the page this indicates

a BREAK in the process.

1. Take a water break...

2. Make notes that may help improve the building sequence for

yourselves and others

3. When finished with the shed, please send your

notes and recommendations to [email protected]

Helping to Improve the Building Process

Start and End with PrayerGive God thanks for

His grace and your ability to work on this project today

Give God thanks for

Safety of all in traveling to get to the site today

Give God thanks for

The weather

Ask God’s Blessing on

the people who will receive this shed

Ask God’s Blessing on

All who work on this shed and that we will serve each other

Page 7

Order List For...

Treated Lumber - Flooring 2 - 4”x6”x8’ 10 - 2”x4”x8’ 2 - 3/4”x4’x8’ AdvanTech

Non-Treated Lumber - Walls 47 - 2”x4”x8’ = Full 96” 7 - 2”x4”x10’ LP SmartSide 8 - 10mm x 4’x8’ LP Siding LP SmartTrim 11 - 1”x4”x16’ or 23 -- 8’

Roof 4 - 7/16”x4’x8’OSB 1 - Roll of 15-lb Roofing Felt (need 3-8’ pieces) 4 - 10’ Weathered Galv’d Eave Drip

Shed-in-a-Bucket 1 - 5-lb Box 1-5/8” T-25 Screws 450 Qty 1 - 5-lb Box 2-1/2” T-25 Screws 400 Qty 1 - 5-lb Box 3-1/2” T-25 Screws 250 Qty 6 - 3.5” ‘Tee’ Hinges Zinc NOTE: See picture of hinge on next page 3 - 5” Heavy Duty 1/2” Barrel Bolt Latches NOTE: See picture of hinge on next page 10 - 6” Hurricane Ties 2 - 2” T-25 Metal Power Bit 5PK 16 - 6” HeadLOK FastenMaster 3 - lbs of Roofing Nails

______________

Roof Shingles Provided at Set-up Site 3 - Bundles Architectural - Shingles 39-3/8” 1 - Bundle of 3-Tab - Shingles 36” Note: Need to be the same color

1 ShedTreated Lumber - Flooring 4 - 4”x6”x8’ 20 - 2”x4”x8’ 4 - 3/4”x4’x8’ AdvanTech

Non-Treated Lumber - Walls 94 - 2”x4”x8’ = Full 96” 14 - 2”x4”x10’ LP SmartSide 16 - 10mm x 4’x8’ LP Siding LP SmartTrim 22 - 1”x4”x16’ or 46 -- 8’

Roof 8 - 7/16”x4’x8’OSB 1 - Roll of 15-lb Roofing Felt (need 6-8’ pieces) 8 - 10’ Weathered Galv’d Eave Drip

Shed-in-a-Bucket 2 - 5-lb Boxes 1-5/8” T-25 Screws 900 Qty 2 - 5-lb Boxes 2-1/2” T-25 Screws 800 Qty 2 - 5-lb Boxes 3-1/2” T-25 Screws 500 Qty 12 - 3.5” ‘Tee’ Hinges Zinc NOTE: See picture of hinge on next page 6 - 5” Heavy Duty 1/2” Barrel Bolt Latches NOTE: See picture of hinge on next page 20 - 6” Hurricane Ties 4 - 2” T-25 Metal Power Bit 5-PK 32 - 6” HeadLOK FastenMaster 6 - lbs of Roofing Nails

______________

Roof Shingles Provided at Set-up Site 6 - Bundles Architectural - Shingles 39-3/8” 2 - Bundle of 3-Tab - Shingles 36” Note: Need to be the same color

2 Sheds

HeadLok 6 in. Heavy Duty Flat-head Fastener

5 in. Zinc-Plated Heavy Duty 1/2” Barrel Bolt

3-1/2 in. Zinc-Plated Heavy Duty Tee Hinge

What some of the items look like

What some of the items look like

10’ Long Weathered Galv’d Eave Drip (Metal Trim) (Look for this shape)

Z-MAX 18-Gauge Galvanized 6” Hurricane Tie

End Trim

108-1/2" cut 90 deg both ends, partial 20 deg cut at 54-1/4" and folded in half

Only one cut is made at 20 deg on this edge

No cuts through this section

96" cut 90 deg both ends, partial 90 deg cut at 48" and folded in half

Only one cut is made at 90 deg on this edge

No cuts through this section

Side Trim

How to Cut the Eave Drip (Metal Trim)

Cutting List for ONE (1) Shed - Page 1

Treated Lumber - 2 4x6x96Cut 2 - 4 x 6 96” long Skids

2”

45°Cut each end to these sizes

Keep the crown / hump to the top when marking the 45º cuts on each end

Get a felt tip black marker and write the name that is underlined on all cut pieces. Example: “Saw Horse”

Note: Write the Size and Name on the Top Edge of the Board. This will be very helpful when the team starts to build the parts. 1. To find the top edge of the board, first find the crown (keep the hump of the joist or stud up). If the board is straight, pick an edge. 2. Why? When the team is building the parts, they will see the name and the size on the top edge of each board -- They will know they are using the right part, and they will know they are keeping the boards with the crown up3. Most importantly - It also means that the writing will be hidden when the shed is built

Treated Lumber - 10 2x4x96Cut 1 - 2 x 4 96” long Door End Joist Cut 7 - 2 x 4 92-7/8” long JoistsCut 2 - 2 x 4 92” long Side Joist Stringers

Non-Treated Lumber - 47 2x4x96Cut 18 - 2 x 4 72-1/2” Side Wall StudsCut 4 - 2 x 4 93-1/2” Side Top or Bottom Wall Plate

Cut 11 - 2 x 4 74” Back/Front Wall StudsCut 1 - 2 x 4 89” Back Wall Bottom PlateCut 2 - 2 x 4 96” Back/Front Wall Top PlateCut 1 - 2 x 4 65” Front Wall Door HeaderCut 8 - 2 x 4 14-1/2” Front Wall Bottom Plate

Cut 2 - 2 x 4 75-1/2” Door Jack StudsCut 4 - 2 x 4 73-3/4” Door StilesCut 6 - 2 x 4 20-7/8” Door Rails

Cut 4 - 2 x 4 93-1/2” Shelf Brackets/Transportation

(Note: cut these out of 2 x 4 x 10’)

Cut 14 - 2 x 4 Approximately 55” Rafters


Cut all 14 Like This20O 20O

51-1/16

Then Cut 4 Like This90O1/2” Down from Top Edge

Then Cut 10 Like This90O

2” Down from Top Edge

Cut 2 @ 94-5/16” x 3-1/2” Side Panel Top

Cut 4 @ 75” x 3-1/2” Side Panel Corner

Cut 1 @ 57” x 3-1/2” Door Inside Header

Cut 2 @ 77” x 3-1/2” Door Side Frame

Cut 2 @ 65” x 3-1/2” Door Top Frame

Cut 4 @ 76-5/8” x 3-1/2” Door Stiles

Cut 6 @ 21-1/8” x 3-1/2” Door Cross-Piece

RoofCut 3 - 4-5/8” x 96” strips of the side

of a 7/16” x 4’ x 8’ OSB sheet 1 for each side of the roof and 1 for the door (73-3/4”)

TrimCut the trim to be shipped with the shed

Cut 2 @ 55” x 3-1/2” then cut 20º on the ends

Cut 2 @ 55” x 3-1/2” then cut 20º on the ends

Cut 2 @ 76-1/4” x 3-1/2” one end at 20º to the right

Cut 2 @ 76-1/4” x 3-1/2” one end at 20º to the left

76-1/4”These are all cut with 90º ends

52-7/16”

52-7/16”


Cutting Siding for ONE (1) Shed - Page 4

Outside Surface UP

This is always the BOTTOM of the sheet you are about to cut

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Outside Surface UP

Inside Surface DOWN

Inside Surface DOWN

Outside Surface UP

Measurements start here

Before Any Cuts Are Made: First Take a Sheet of LP SidingSet it down on a cutting table Outside Surface UP and Rabat edge down and always to the right when standing at the bottom of the table



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Cut 1 47-1/2”

Cut 2

78-

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Cut 2 sets for each Side of the Shed

Cut 2

Cut 1



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Cut 1 47-1/2”

Cut 2

79”

Cut 2 sets for the Back and or Front of the Shed

Until now they are identical

3/4”

Cut 2

Cut 1

Note: Cut 2 is measured after Cut 1 is made



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Cut 1 18-5/8”

Cut 2

77”

Cut 2

Cut 1

Note: the Green Cuts have been made.We are now going to cut out the doors

Cut 1 is measured

from the green

line

Doors

Mark the TopHingeSide



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Cut 1 28-1/8”

Cut 2

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Cut 2

Cut 1

Cut 1 is measured

from the Hinge

sideof the Door

Doors

Mark the TopHingeSide

Siding & Trim Templates for SmartBench

Use With Festool Saw Guide

Side Wall Cavity ContentsWeathered Galvanized Eve Drip - Cut as shown on Page 10 These are cut out of 4 10-ft lengths (see page 9)Roofing Felt - Cut 8-ft long and rolled separately 1 Roll of 15-lb felt will be enough for 4 sheds

Put the contents below into a 1-gallon bag Roofing Nails 1-1/2” 2 1-quart bags, 1 lb in each 6” Hurricane Ties 10 wrapped together in plastic Deckmate Screws 1-5/8” 1 1-quart bag, 1-1/2 lbs in bag Deckmate Screws 2-1/2” 1 1-quart bag, 1-1/2 lbs in bag Deckmate Screws 3-1/2” 1 1-quart bag, 1 lb in bag

These are all stored inside the cavity of one of the side walls:

Attach 6 brackets 2”x4”x1/2” with a screw to the under side of the wall stud (shown in the cavity to the right)

Cut a piece of OSB plywood 72-1/4” x 13-3/4”

Loosely set the OSB plywood shown in the panel to the right into the space with the brackets.

The brack-ets can be removed when the wall is set up on site and the contents removed.

Create a cavity and place the above items in the cavity Brackets

Roof and Wall Section Overview

1/2” End Truss2” Middle Truss

Top Edge of Truss 51-1/16”

Top Edge of Plywood Strip 48” from Top of Truss

Plywood Overhangs

3/8” or 1-1/8” if

Trim is Not Installed

Trim Along Top of Side Wall is 94-5/16” Long

Plywood Strip 4-5/8”

Treated LumberRunners 2 - 4” x 6” x 8’

Set runners on saw horses or New Workbench. Cut the ends and mark joists layout from template

Door End

Level Saw Horses in both directions before you begin

2”

45°

96”

Flooring-When Not Useing a SmartBench

Door End

Mark the joists on the 92” Side Joist Stringers

15-1/4”15-1/4”15-1/4”15-1/4”15-1/4”14-1/4”

Floor JoistsTreated Lumber 10 - 2” x 4” x 8’

Side Stringers Cut Two @ 92”

Joists Cut Seven @ 92-7/8”

If you have a template - Set floor joists across runners and lay out the side joists

from template, keeping the template to the door end

Note SizeStart Here

1-1/4” 2-3/4”

Line up the joists with side rail marks and fasten them with three 3-1/2” screws at

each joint. Note: keep the crown of the joist up

Door End

2-3/4”

46-1/2”45-1/2”1-1/4”

Now line up the joists and the run-ners to the marks and fasten the joists

to runners at ^ with one 3-1/2” screw

Square the frame as needed, making sure it is level Finish attaching the joists to the frame with one 3-1/2” screw on each side

You will have to angle this screw starting half-way up the joist

Door End

18” 18”

1-1/4” 2-3/4”One 3-1/2” screw on each runner

Attaching the Joists to the Runners

With the frame attached to the runners and everything square and level attach a 2” x 4” x 8’ to door end secure to runners and joists with 2-1/2” screws pulling each joist together

Screw a 6 in HeadLok Fastner down through each joist into the skid/runners

Attach One

2” x 4” x 96” Joist at the Door End

Door End

Before Flooring

HeadLok 6 in. Heavy Duty Flat-head Fastener

Start Treated Plywood flooring at door end, with the LONG side

of the plywood going across the door end; screw down with 2-1/2” screws, making sure all screws

are set and in the center of the joists

Floor Joist Direction to Plywood

*Let the Treated Plywood overhang, and screw the flooring to the joists. As you fasten last joist, measure to ensure joist and flooring are parallel.

Cut off the overhang flush with the joist. Use a chalk line and circular saw.

Sheet 1 - Set Door End

First (The End with Double Joist)

Flush All Three

Sides

Sheet 2 - Let this hang over and then trim to fit as needed (*see detail below)

Floor Joist Direction to Plywood

NOTE Door End has the Double Joist

Start 3/4” Treated Plywood flooring at door end; flush three sides and screw down with 2-1/2” screws, making sure all screws are set and in the

center of the joists

Proceed to the flooring

Make sure to have half the joist exposed and that screws do not miss the joist. Give them a little angle.

Let the Treated Plywood overhang, and screw the flooring to the joists. As you fasten last joist, measure to ensure joist and flooring are parallel.

Cut off the overhang flush with the joist. Use a chalk line and circular saw.

Leave the floor on the Saw HorsesThis will be your workbench for the walls and door

Now that the floor is in place, check the floor for level again -- I know it was OK the last time, but indulge me.

Remove the floor if you are using the New Workbench

The Floor is now Complete

When you see a Blue Bar across the top of the page remember this

indicates a BREAK in the process.

WATER...Everyone!

Number of people on your team? ____

Your recommended number for the tasks so far would be ____

Look back at the instructions and make any notes that would help

others in understanding the process

Other Notes:


Slide all the studs and the top or bottom plate to one edge. Fas-ten all the studs and then slide the wall across to the other side and fasten the studs - It is easier to fasten the screws with the drill at the edge.

2. Use the floor to square the frame.

3. Cut the siding for length before securing to the side walls. This way it is easier to measure the 1-1/2” top and bottom and make sure your screws find a stud.

Bonus Tip: Make a template for the 1-1/2” by taking a 2” x 4” piece of scrap about 18” long and drawing a guide-line 1-1/2” in from the edge. Use a black felt tip marker. Then you can place it against the stud, under the sheet of siding to see how far the overhang should extend.

4. Chalk line at the 1-1/2” mark and cut off the overlap after the sid-ing is secured in place.

Note: these panels can be used on either side of the shed. There is no top or bottom.

Set it to the side after you build it.

Repeat for the other side.

Four Hints for Building the Sides

1-1/2”

B A

Edge of siding because of overlap is

Screw and Cut Diagram - Reference Page

Left Door Frame

27-7/8” wide

Right Door Frame

27-7/8” wide

B A

Side Walls

An Aside: Try to keep the Crown of the joist and studs up. This does two

things...

First, for the Floor, the weight will tend to pull the joist down and

straighten the joist.

Secondly, for the Walls, this keeps the bend of the wall in the same di-rection, which in turn will make the wall look straighter and lie flatter

on the table while working - If you have one stud bent in one direction and one stud bent in an other direc-tion when looking down the wall it may look like the waves of Troy :)

Hold from edge 3/8”

When building walls install and secure “A” first

Build the side walls

9 Studs for each side wall 72-1/2”Top and Bottom wall plate 93-1/2”Flush end studs; center the others

Overhang plywood siding top and bottom by 1-1/2”

Follow the layout pattern and allow plywood to over hang top and bottom by 1-1/2.” Cut sides flush with outside of stud.

Cut Siding 78 1/2” long

15-3/8”

46-3/4”

15-3/8”15-3/8” 15-3/8”

46-3/4”

Note: Mesurments taken from the wall edge to centar of studs

Cut The Gussets For The Roof TrussesUse the piece that is the cut-off after building the side walls

(It is approximatly 17 3/8” long by 48”)

Siding

This part is used for the Side Wall This part is the cut-off

Take the cut-off section approximatly 17 3/8” wide and use this for making the

Roof Truss Gussets

You will need 8 Gussets

5”

4.5”24”

8”

Note: When fixing the gussets to the trusses hold down top edge

about 1/4”

Build The End Roof Trusses Next

18”

End Trusses: Put a mark on the floor at the center and 18” from the back end.

NOTE: Flush the rafter ends, and apply one 8” gusset to one side only.

Center line

Build 2 End Trusses

Apply ONE 8” gusset to ONE side ONLY of end trusses

Secure gusset with glue and 1-5/8” screws as needed (suggestion 6 on each side)

Hold it up 1/2” Helpful for Site Team Mark and Square a line up from the

bottom of the truss on each side at 3”

Build The Center Roof Trusses Next

19-1/2”

Center Trusses: Put a mark on the floor at 19-1/8” from the back end. NOTE: Flush the rafter ends and apply one 8” gusset to one side; flip over

and apply another 8” gusset to the other side only.

Center line (from previous step)

Build 5 Center Trusses

Apply one 8” wide gusset to one side Flip over and apply another 8” gusset to the other side

Hold it up 2”Helpful for Site Team

Mark and Square a line up from the bottom of the truss on each side at 3”

Secure gusset with glue and 1-5/8” screws as needed (suggestion 6 on each side)

Now for the backCut and lay out wall to back wall pattern Cut rafters and have them ready, the short filler to cover the joint above the wall plate is cut as needed.

Hold End Truss up flush with stud wall

Secure with 3-1/2” screws

RafterTop plate of stud wall

7 Studs for back wall 74”Top wall plate 96” and bottom wall plate 89”

Flush end studs on bottom wall plate; center the others

Hold back 3-1/2”

Hold back 3-1/2”

Over hang plywood siding bottom by 1-1/2”

48”48”

14-5/8”14-5/8”

14-5/8”14-5/8”

14-1/2”14-1/2”

Hold over 1-1/2” Measure down from top 17-1/2” chalk line to top middle and cut

Repeat for other side

17-1/2”

Remove Back Section and get ready for the Front

Apply the Siding

B A

Edge of siding because of overlap is...

A

When you see a Blue Bar across the top of the page remember this

indicates a BREAK in the process.

WATER...Everyone!


Your recommended number for the tasks so far would be ____



Other Notes:


Hold End Truss up flush with stud wall and secure with 3”

screws

RafterTop plate of stud wall

Now To The Door End Frame

Center a 57” wide door opening

4 Studs for door wall 74”2 Studs for door wall 75-1/2”

Top wall plate 96” and Bottom wall plate 2 @ 14-1/2”Flush end studs on Bottom wall plate

Hold back 3-1/2”

Hold back 3-1/2”

57”19-1/2”

14-1/2”14-1/2”

19-1/2”

Fasten a 93 - 1/2” stud once the frame is built to hold the ends and the door opening at 57”.

Note this board will be removed on site and used for the shelf.

Make door brace to be removed on site


Fasten with 2 or 3

2-1/2” screws at each side

to be removed on site

Hold back 3-1/2”

Hold back 3-1/2”

Set top door stop

Cut 1 - 3-1/2” x 3/4” LP Trim 57” longApply to the top of the 57” Door Opeing

Hold the top edge of the trim flush with the top edge of the 2” x 4” studSecure with 1-5/8” Screws

Hold back 3-1/2”

Hold back 3-1/2”

Now To The DoorsUse 2” x 4” studs and make 2 doors

Predrill pocket holes and screw with 2-1/2” screws

27-7/8”

73-3/4”

Door

Bottom

of Door

31 5/8”

Top of Door

Predrill pocket holes

Kreg makes many different types

Someone in the church may have one you can use

Take 1 of the 3 - 4-5/8” x 96” strips of the OSBCut to 73-3/4” and apply to the feft hand door inside style

Fasten with 1-5/8” screws

20-7/8”

31 5/8”

Cut from scrap siding

10mm spacersPut a number of 10mm spacers around the door to center the door in the opening

Make sure the doors are pushed up to the top and out to each side with the 10mm spacers in place (use cutting of siding)

Set in the Doors

Center in the 57” wide door opening

Door - Right

B

A

17-1/2”

With the Doors in Place, Put on A and B

28-1/2

28-1/2

77

B A

Edge of siding because of overlap is

Left Door Frame Right Door Frame

Before Cutting out the Doors

REMEMBER to SET the SAW DEPTH to the THICKNESS

of the Siding. If you don’t, you will undo your hard work!!

Screw siding onto door frame, making sure you get screws into all the cross rails and down both sides of the joint in the middle.

Cut a 10mm space down the sides and along the top and middle.


Door - Right

Door - Left - Widest to the Left

B

A

Ad

Bd

Cut Siding Ad and Bd for Doors

Cut 76-5/8” for Bd 28-1/2

28-1/2

Cut 28-1/8” for Bd

Cut 76-5/8” for Ad

Cut 28-1/8” for Ad

Header is doubled to help water drip off and not go in the top of door. Caulk along the top and fill any groves so water can’t go behind trim.

Install three 8” T hinges on each side and lock Looking from the bottom, put the hinges in the right and left side ,making sure hinge screws are going into the 2” x 4” door frame.


Door - Right

Door - Left - Widest to the Left

Trim Around Door and Door Frame

Double the trim along the top of door to help water drip away from the top edge of the door.

CAULK well along the top edge - Fill notches in siding.

Front of Shed of Hope

Stacking Order for Sheets on Top of Floor

Side view of Pre-built Sheds of Hope in Storage or ready for delivery on a trailer.

Skids and Floor2-4 5/8” x 96 Roof Decking : 2-16” x 86 1/4 Shelves : 2-4 x 8 Roof Decking

Side Wall

Side Wall with Pocket for Set-up MaterialsFront Wall

Back Wall


Side Wall


Back Wall


Side Wall


Back Wall

The Shelf Support Brackets are used during transporta-tion to protect the back wall from getting damaged and

provide a level base for the skids of the shed above.

Back Wall Trim & Shelf Brackets

Cut 4 - 93 1/2” 2 x 4 studs and Place 3 as shown.These will be used as Shelf Support Brackets.

Note: The other Shelf Bracket is being used to keep the front wall spaced at the right width.

Front of Shed Floor

1 x 4 Pre-cut Back Wall Trim Tacked on for Transportation

1-93 1/2” Long Shelf Bracket

Strapping

2-93 1/2” Long Shelf Brackets

Last Blue Bar for this Section

WATER...Everyone!

How long did it take your team to get to this point? ____


Your recommended number for this task would be ____



Please send your notes and suggestions to [email protected]


Shed Building 2 · 2020. 5. 1. · Shed Building 2.0 Custom 8’ by 8’ by 8’ Shed Plans...

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Transcript of Shed Building 2 · 2020. 5. 1. · Shed Building 2.0 Custom 8’ by 8’ by 8’ Shed Plans...