Sampling Unit 2

7/27/2019 Sampling Unit 2

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JOTHI LINKAM MDSENIOR DESINERSCHOOL OF FASHION DESIGNFDDI- ROHTAK


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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

The samples decide the ability ofan exporter. The buyer willaccess the exporter and his

organization only by thesamples.

If the samples are of goodquality and with reasonableprice naturally the buyers will beforced to place the order.

So it is essential that the

samples should be innovative


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By doing sampling the exportercan estimate the yarnconsumption for developing thefabric, a clear idea on costingmore ever the manufacturingdifficulties.

Besides by doing sampling onlythe exporter can optimize theprocessing parameters for mass

production, which helps to avoid


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The Details Attached to theGarment SampleAfter the confirmation of order, each sample

sent t 0 the buyer has the following detailsattached to it, with the help of a tag. Itcontains the details pertaining to both, whatthe buyer has demanded and what

supplement fabric/trim.

Ref no.

Color

Fabric

Composition

Description

Quantity


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There may be a separate samplingdepartment in a company.

But as the merchandiser is the

person who is interacting with thebuyers regarding samples andother requirements, this samplingdepartment will work under the

supervision of merchandisingdepartment.

Also as the samples are to be

made according to the buyers


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SAMPLING TYPES

Salesmen samples orpromotional samplesProto samples or fit samples

Counter samples or referencesamples or approval samplesWash test samplesPhoto samples

Fashion show samplesPre-production samplesProduction samples

Shipment samples


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Sampling Process

The process of sample departmentvaries from context to context, andthe development process covers awide range of diverse products fromnew fibers, fiber blends, new yarns,fabric structures ,finishes andsurface effects and all types ofmade up products such as knitwear,

hosiery, cut and sewn garments,household products, technical andmedical products.

There are different phases ofsampling; the first phase covers the


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The second phase covers theprocess following acceptance ofthe first prototype sample and

includes the functions of sourcingand ordering component, testingthe product and carry out trailsonce the finalized samplespecifications has been drawn up,the third and final phasecommences.


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DESIGN DEPARTMENT

Fashion sketchingor fashion flats can be definedas a base templates one can useto createunique apparel designs.

We have industry standard flatsketches that demonstrate aprofessional and accurate

illustration of garments and


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What is Sketching orDesigning?


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In the garment manufacturing thefirst step is designing the sketch for

the dresses that have to be prepared.For this purpose the designer firstdraw several rough sketches inthe sketch book.

The designer does not go for detailsat this moment but he rather let hiscreativity flow on the paper and hedraws many sketches. Later thesesketches are analyzed by a panel of

designers. They finally select few out of them.

These few sketches are rendered indetail separately or in the form ofa single collection.

The designer also draws working


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Fashion sketching not onlyinvolves the act of drawing aninitial idea but also theprocess of considering anddeveloping the idea across

the pages of a sketchbook.It is always best to have anidea of what you want todraw. In many respects

a fashion sketch is a problem-solving process, which bringstogether the visual elementsof articulating an idea in itspurest form.This can mean recording a


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A fashion sketch should seek to recordand make sense of an idea.

This is largely achieved with any one ormore of three components:

Establishing the overall silhouette of agarment or outfit Conveying the stylelines of a garment such as a princessseam or the positioning of a dart

And representing details on a garmentsuch as a pocket shape, topstitching or

embellishment. Some sketches may appear spontaneous

or similar to mark making but theyshould all be linked by a common

understanding of the human form and


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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Garment designers begin tomaterialize their ideas using handsketches, off-the-rack

garments, technical drawings, three-dimensional draping on dress forms,or computer-aided design (CAD).

Many apparel companies hire both

merchandisers and designers as partof their design and developmentteam. Merchandisers often overseeand guide the design team todetermine what, when, and how


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These concept boards are typicallycollages of color and fabricswatches, fashion sketches, andmagazines photos that capture thetheme or mood of the design ideas.

Designers begin to materialize theirideas using hand sketches, off-the-rack garments, technical drawings,three-dimensional draping on dressforms, or computer-aided design(CAD).

CAD is becoming increasinglypopular, partially due to the easewith which images can be redrawn,

altered, and modified; and partiallyattributable to the


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Developments in ProductDesignCAD and CAM are two technologies that

have made prominent changes in the waygarment manufacturing was done in

previous eras.Today all large garment

manufacturing companies have developedCAD/CAM system to do the processof garment manufacturing.

CAD is an abbreviation for computer-aided design and CAM for computer-aidedmachine.

CAD/CAM is computer software that

controls the production of garments. In CAD the desi ner desi ns the


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The expense and time is reduced in aconsiderable manner when comparedto the laborious manual work ofdesigning.

Designing can be done fromanywhere as the designers are ableto control the process from remotelocations as well.

The data can be easily stored,transmitted, and transported throughcomputer files.

Digital swatches can be saved onfloppy disks, zip disks, CD-ROM orhard drive thus saving space.

Moreover they can be easilyorganized for fast and easy retrieval.


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PATTERN MAKING

The appearance and fit of a garment ishighly dependent on each process.

Patternmaking is one of the earliest

steps in the development of a garment. It is a craft that has evolved over thecenturies into a skilled technicalprocess.

Today, patternmaking tools have beencarefully tailored to quickly performrepetitive time-consuming tasks,allowing apparel companies to cater tothe fast paced world of fashion.

Now a days sophisticated software


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Pattern Making ProcessOnce a designer has completed a

drawing of a garment, it istransformed into a sample pattern."Patternmaking" is the process ofcreating all the correctly sized piecesneeded to make a complete

garment.

For many smaller

manufacturers, pattern making is


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The patternmaker may use one ofthe following techniques to develop asample pattern.

S/he may "manipulate" a new

pattern by using geometric rules tomodify or alter existing patternpieces.

S/he may translate a design that hasbeen "draped" and pinned on a dressform by converting the shapes of thedraped garment sections into paperpattern pieces.


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Although many firms still makepatterns by hand, largermanufacturers make productionpatterns on a computer using CADsoftware.

Other systems have been developedthat allow patternmakers to create

patterns manually by using a life-sized, sensitized table and a stylusattached to a computer.

As the patternmaker indicates


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Types of Pattern Makingin garmentmanufacturing1) Block Pattern;

Block pattern is a basic pattern without any style features andincorporates the measurements,proportions and posture of the body

for which garments, developed fromthis pattern, are intended.

Block pattern can be developed by


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2) The flat method; The components of the pattern,

usually the body and sleeve, areconstructed by a draft(technicaldrawing) which incorporates themeasurements and proportions ofthe particular system used by the

pattern maker. It cad be produced bya computer.


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3) Modelling;

It entails the fitting of the blockgarment usually in toile, on aworkroom stand of the appropriatesize, when the fit balance are

satisfactory, motile is removed fromthe stand and each component iscopied on to pattern paper and the

necessary making up allowances


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4) Garment Pattern


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The styled patterns used for cuttingthe original sample garments can bedeveloped by a variety of means,

including the flat method, modellingor a combination of both.

When using the flat method, thepattern maker introduces style linesof the garment on to a copy of theblock pattern, performs thenecessary manipulation and thenadds the requisite sewing and otherallowances to each component.


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5) Computerized pattern

makingAt most large manufacturers, patternsare made on a computer with computeraided design (CAD) systems, thepattern maker manipulating small

graphic patterns on thecomputer screen with a hand-heldcontrol device.

Geometry drives can make an infinitenumber of changes to the shapes andsizes the pattern including creating newdesign lines or adding pleats, fullness,and seam allowances.

To allow pattern makers to make

patterns manually on a computer,


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The stylish picks up the lines drawn onthe table and shows them onthe screen.

Changes can also be made directly onthe screen. In both cases, patterns are

immediately available for otheroperations such as grading and markermaking.

The essential features of this

technology are pattern design andpattern generation systems.

Pattern design system the patternmaker inputs to the system all the

block patterns in current use and withthe aid of the com uter can construct


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GRADING SIZES

Pattern Grading: Pattern Grading is the process where by

patterns of different sizes are producedfrom the original master pattern.

This process can be performedmanually or automatically by acomputerized system.

Patterns are graded according to sizecharts which present the sizes and theaverage measurements of thepopulation group for which the

garments are intended.


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Whatis Pattern Grading? Patterns initially are made in only one

size. In order to produce clothing thatfits various body types and sizes,

the pattern pieces must be increased ordecreased geometrically to create acomplete range of sizes.

The process of resizing theinitial pattern is called "grading." Eachcompany determines its own grade

specifications for each size, and size


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Grading is the method used toincrease or decrease the samplesize production pattern to make up acomplete size range.

For example, the sample size 10patterns must be made larger to

accommodate sizes 12, 14 and 16and smaller for sizes 8 and 6.

Each company sets predetermined

grade specifications, or rules. For


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Pre-programmed grade rules forincrease or decrease are automatically

applied to the pieces of each gradinglocation.

Then the computer can print outthe pattern in each new size.

Manufacturers often use an out sideservice to make patterns, gradepatterns, and make the marker.

Although many small firms still usetraditional grading methods, grading,like patternmaking, is becomingincreasingly computerized.

Using a CAD system, the pattern can


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Shrinkage When fabric is cut for making garments,

it is important to ensure that fabric isfully relaxed and is not subjected to anyadditional tension or strain during

rolling or unrolling while layering forcutting.

So fabrics are often relaxed prior tocutting to ensure that the shrinkage isminimized in a garment.

Garments which are unwashed and can


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Woven fabric garments typically

shrink just a little . This will usuallybe about 2-3% which is fairlyunnoticeable.

Knits that are not garment dyed willbe more effected by washing anddrying.

Shrinkage for knit fabrics can beanywhere from 1-8% and 95% of thisshrinkage will take place the firsttime it is laundered. In these cases

shrinkage is incorporated in all the


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Shrinkage adjusting Shrinkage adjustments should not

distort the original shape andbalance of the patterns. Whenshrinkage is applied to a panel ingarment all corresponding patternsmust also be applied with shrinkage

adjustments.


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MARKER PLANNING

Pattern Markings

Marking refers to the process of

placing pattern pieces to maximizethe number of patterns that can becut out of a given piece of fabric inorder to make garments.

Pattern making is a highly skilledtechnique which calls for technical

ability, sensitivity for design


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Marker; Marker is a thin paper on which all

pattern pieces for all sizes for a

particular style ofgarments aredrawn in such way that maximumfabrics will be used and fabric

wastage will be minimum. Objectives of Marker Efficiency:

-Examine how fabric utilization affectsmarker efficiency

-Enumerate the factors affectingmaterial utilization

Factors of Marker Efficiency

Fabric Characteristics


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Once the pattern is graded, the fabricmust be prepared for cutting. In orderto spread the fabric properly,

The spreader must know how thepattern pieces will be placed on thefabric. "Marking" refers to the process

of placing pattern pieces to maximizethe number of patterns that can be cutout of a given piece of fabric.

Firms strive for "tight" markers largely

because fabric is one of amanufacturer's mostsignificant business costs, oftenexceeding the cost of labor.

Althou h markers can be made b


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Pre-Layout MarkingsPattern Adjustment Lines:

Two parallel lines that indicate whereyou can lengthen or shorten a

pattern piece to maintain the originalshaping. This should be done beforelayout.

Waistline Marking:

A short solid line that indicates thenatural waistline of the wearer.

-


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Cutting room for computer

marker planning; Master make pattern is made

according to the pattern from clientsor information related to the designor pattern, all sizes have to beshrunk tests to determine diminishedvalue.

The redrafted pattern will then beread into the computer, using thelatest version of the garment


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Marking Standards;

Will have markings appropriate forthe fabric. Select a type andsubstance that will not damage the

fabric and can be removed easilyafter construction.

Shows only on the wrong side of

fabric, or does not damage orcompromise the appearance on theright side after construction iscomplete.


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ROLE OF FASHION

MERCHANDISER Fashion merchandising is thecombination of the processes that anew fashion item must go through to beavailable in mass quantities to the

consumer after it is left the hands ofthe designer.

Fashion merchandising often gets

confused with fashion marketing andalthough they work together, they aretwo very different things.

To understand fashion merchandising

completely, it is important to examine


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A fashion merchandiser will have

significant input on the types offabrics used to make a piece ofclothing.

Having a strong historical and socio-cultural understanding of the fabrics,

help change a designers vision intoreality.

By applying their knowledge about


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Buying becomes partof fashion merchandising whena merchandiser buys fashion items

to be presented in a store.

A fashion merchandiser must beaware of the target market for the

fashion item and also very well-versed in fashion trend analysis andforecasting.

This allows for more accurate


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The final component

of fashion merchandising is selling.A fashion merchandiser that workswith a designer is responsible forselling fashion items to stores, who

then sells to consumers. Again the merchandiser must have

an idea about forecasting

and market trends so they may givetheir recommendation regardingproduction of the item.

Creativity is important, because a


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Buying

Financial Accountability

Customer Knowledge

Visual Merchandising

Administration

TYPES OF SAMPLE


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TYPES OF SAMPLE

When we work with some buyers

continuously, we will have to keep onsending samples to them very often.

Whenever they have enquiries, buyermay need samples. Buyers may like to

see the garments in a new fabric. For one enquiry, they may need

samples in different fabrics to choose

from. If they want to develop new stylein new fabric, then also we will have tosend these samples.

We may have to spend too much on

these samples. But these samples are


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1.Salesmen samples or

promotional samples Some buyer needs these samples for

getting the orders from theircustomers. If the buyer is having 7salesmen in his office, then the buyer

will ask us to make 7 samples in eachstyle.

The salesmen will book the orders fromtheir customers, by showing these

samples. Buyer will place the order tous accumulating the quantities.

If we have sent samples for 5 styles,some times, we may get orders for all 5st les 3 st les or 1 st le. Some times


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Normally the sampling will cost usapproximately 3 to 5 times of thegarment price.

We can not expect to get the fullcost from the buyer. Of course thesesamples will help us for our business.

Hence we can ask the buyer toaccept 2 or 3 times of garment priceas the sampling cost, for the styles

which we dont get orders. Some


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2.Photo samples or fit

samples These samples are to be made aftergetting the order sheets. Thesesamples are needed to check the

measurements, style and fit. So theycan be made in available similarfabrics but in the actualmeasurements and specifications.

Some buyers may need thesesamples if they want to print thephotos of garments on photo inlays,

packing box, hang tag, etc.


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The buyers will arrange the photoshoot session, by spendinghuge money tothe advertising agencies. So the

buyers will need these samplesstrictly on time.

If they dont get samples on time,

the buyers will have to pay morecompensation tothe advertising agencies and models.

Buyers will ask us to make the photo

samples according to the intended

3.samples or reference


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3.samples or referencesamples or approval samples These samples are to be made in actual

fabrics with actual trims. If the order is for3 colors, buyer may need samples in anyone color and swatches (fabric bits) in

other colors. These samples should be strictly as per

the specifications in the order sheets. Wehave to get the approval for these

samples from the buyer before startingproduction.

After getting the approval, the approved

samples should be followed in production.


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4.Wash test samples

If these samples are sent beforestarting production and if we getsome remarks or comments on these

samples, we can correct them inproduction.

But some buyers will need us to send

these samples from productionbefore shipment. In this case, thesesamples may be considered asshipment samples.


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5. Pre-production samples

These samples are almost likeapproval samples. They have to bemade in actual production fabric with

actual bulk trims.

They will represent that theproduction will be like these

samples.


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6.Production samples

These samples are to be sent beforeshipment to get thebuyers confirmation for shipment.

Hence these samples are needed to

be perfect in all manners. Buyer maycheck these samples for everythingor anything.

Some times, they may do wash testalso. We should not get any remarkor comment. We have to get onlyOK from the buyer.


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7. Shipment samples

These samples are to be sent aftershipment. They should be sent inactual packing with all labels, tags,etc. (Generally these samples willnot be tested by buyer for anything.

And even if we get some commentsfrom buyers, we can save ourselves

by saying that these samples weresent from the left over garmentsafter the shipment; hence there

Sampling Unit 2

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