RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand:...

RSM(Coastal Evolution w/

Climate Change)

Sediment Transport Prediction

Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)

Pathogen Transport (beach closures)

Inundation

Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction

Waves: PUVs

Sand: Jetski Surveys

Beach Safety

Coastal Engineering and Planning

Nearshore Wave Prediction

Waves: Directional Buoys

Waves: PUVs

Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction


Observations Models Applications

SIO Waves & BeachesSIO Waves & Beaches

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation


Waves: PUVs


Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach

IOOS – National Waves Plan


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation


Waves: PUVs


Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs

Marine Navigation Regional Wave

Prediction



SIO Waves & Beaches

Information Flow

Surf

Beach

Islands

Shelf


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation


Waves: PUVs


Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs

Marine Navigation Regional Wave

Prediction



Information Flow

Surf

Beach

Islands

Shelf

Julie: LA/LB Harbor Website


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation


Waves: PUVs


Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches

Information Flow

Surf

Beach

Islands

Shelf


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation


Waves & Currents: PUVs


Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




Information Flow

Surf

Beach

Islands

Shelf

Dr. “Where the Sewer Meets the Surf” Guza : Alongshore Currents


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation




Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches

Information Flow

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation




Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling

Information Flow

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation




Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Framework

Information Flow

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach

Alongcoast Model Prediction

“MOP” Sites

- 10m water depth.

- 100m alongshore spacing.


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation




Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Framework

Information Flow

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation




Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches : The “Buoy Network Wave Model”

Information Flow

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach

Huntington Beach Wave Buoy

Huntington Beach Case Study

Buoy Network Model Validation

Offshore Wave Buoys Measure Arriving Swell from the Open Ocean

Model Validation

“Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model


Southswell

Northswell

Huntington Beach Case Study: Swell Transformation


Local Wave Buoys Measure Locally Generated Seas

3. Model Validation



Local Seas

Huntington Beach Case Study : Sea Transformation

3. Model Validation


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation




Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches : The “Buoy Network Wave Model”

Information Flow

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation




Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches : Towards RSM Tools

Information Flow

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach

Why Does San Diego’s North Why Does San Diego’s North County County Have So Much Trouble Retaining Have So Much Trouble Retaining Sandy Beaches?Sandy Beaches?

Example Application :

Oceanside Littoral Cell: The “River of Sand”

Wave-DrivenNet SouthwardSand Transport

Sand Leaves Cell at Scripps Submarine Canyon

CDIP Buoys

Wave Climate : Oceanside Littoral Cell

Alongshore Wave Climate Reconstruction 1 Year: 4/1/02 - 3/31/03

Incident waves

Cross-shore Component

Alongshore Component

Duration of Large (Erosional) Wave Conditions

Downcoast Upcoast

Net Annual Alongshore Sand Transport

Wave-driven Lagoon Sub-Cells

Batiquitos Sub-Cell

Moonlight Sub-Cell

San Elijo Sub-Cell

Fletcher Sub-Cell

San Diegito Sub-Cell

Penesquitos Sub-Cell

Torrey Pines Sub-Cell

Predicted Max Potential Beach Width Erosion WINTER 2002-2003

Max Potential Beach Width Erosion (m)


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation


Waves: PUVs


Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches

Information Flow

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach


Climate Change)


Sand: ATV Surveys

Sand: LIDAR Surveys

Beach Safety (rips)


Inundation


Waves: PUVs


Beach Safety




Waves: PUVs




SIO Waves & Beaches : The Observation Challenge

Information Flow

Islands

Shelf

Surf

Beach

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