11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 1 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

(http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl)

restaurant reviews and foodie travels

10 may 2017

A Foodie’s Guide to Paris

Paris: City of Lights, City of Love, Gourmet Capital of the World… But better known to me as thefirst place I lived after leaving home aged 18. I was studying at the Cordon Bleu school. I don’t re-member all that much about those three months except for nursing an unrequited crush on an in-credibly posh boy with a double-barrelled surname, and getting into trouble with French chefs inenormous white hats for not following their recipes properly. 18 years later (good grief, that washalf my lifetime ago?!) and French chefs still aren’t too impressed with my laissez-faire attitude to-wards cooking (more on that later), but at least I seem to have got past the unrequited-crushes-on-posh-boys phase.

Despite its down-to-earth interior, L’Ami Jean is undoubtedlyserving some of the best food in the Paris, which is probablywhy it was recently lauded as one of the top 100 bistros inthe city.

I’ve been lucky enough to visit Paris twice in the past month or so – once under my own steam,and once as a guest of the City of Paris Tourism Office. I can only assume that in the wake of therecent terrorist attacks the city is struggling to attract as many visitors as it used to. Plus, now that

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 2 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

European cuisine has strongholds in Copenhagen, London and San Sebastian (to name just a fewof the more recent “foodie cities”) gastronomy in Paris doesn’t have quite the same reputation itused to. That’s a shame, because there are still plenty of reasons – culinary and otherwise – to visitthe French capital. I’m bringing you just a few of them in my Paris Food GuideParis Food Guide.

For the Gourmand: Best Restaurants and Bistros in Paris

Before I get onto some of my favourite restaurants, I wanted to mention a street. If you’re anywherenear the Eiffel Tower (and let’s face it: you’re going to be) try wandering down Rue ClerRue Cler for lunchor dinner. Lined with cafés, bistros and brasseries that are frequented by locals and tourists alike,you’re bound to find something to suit any appetite or budget. During my first trip, I had an enorm-ous French salad (by which I mean there was more meat and cheese than green stuff) and a glassof rosé at Le Petit Cler – a cute little restaurant with a covered outdoor area that’s perfect forspring/autumn weather.

L’Ami JeanHands down the best food I ate in Paris, and the one place I will definitely be going back to nexttime I’m in town. L’Ami JeanL’Ami Jean is a rustic bistro in the seventh arrondissement – it’s actually ex-tremely close to Rue Cler, although I didn’t know that at the time. Despite its down-to-earth interior,L’Ami Jean is undoubtedly serving some of the best food in the Paris, which is probably why it wasrecently lauded as one of the top 100 bistros in the city. We tried their eight-course tasting menu,which made me regret not starving myself for several hours beforehand – it was a LOT of food. I

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 3 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

could write an entire post reviewing this restaurant alone (and perhaps I will), but for now a fewhighlights: the pork terrine that they bring to the table when you arrive isn’t part of the tasting menu(I believe you get it whatever you order) but is absolute rustic perfection. Breast of quail was pep-pery, orangey, umami-savoury… I didn’t want it to end. Mackerel was served semi-raw with a cit-rusy confit, aniseed-fresh fennel, runner beans and spicy espelette pepper. The espelette peppermade a comeback later with milky scallops and wild strawberries – an unexpected but delicatecombination. I could go on, but I imagine the menu changes regularly so it’s unlikely you’ll be eat-ing the same as me by the time you read this anyway. The dégustation menu that we ate is pricedat €80 for dinner, but there are plenty of cheaper options, especially at lunchtime.

Mackerel and friends at bistro L’Ami Jean

TannatMeanwhile in the 11 arrondissement, cosy local restaurant TannatTannat is serving up a good-valuemenu with excellent wine choices. The interior is much more modern than some of the other res-taurants and bistros in this list, but no less gezellig for it. I enjoyed their starter of smoked duckwith raw cabbage, cauliflower, hazelnuts and egg yolk. My main of slow-cooked lamb shoulder withwhite beans, coriander and yoghurt was full of flavour although it was crying out for a squeeze oflemon juice to counter-balance the gamey lamb and creamy beans. Ask the wait staff to help youpick out wines that will pair well with your dishes – they gave us some really expert advice.

th

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 4 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

Impressive plates at Tannat restaurant

La RégaladeAnother contender in the 100 chefs nominated for their contribution to “Bistronomie” was BrunoDoucet from La RégaladeLa Régalade on Rue Saint-Honoré. Serving seasonal French fare with a contempor-ary twist, I particularly enjoyed Doucet’s black risotto with shrimps, garlic and fried parsley. Squidink dishes can sometimes be oppressively heavy, but this one was well balanced and full of sea-flavour. My cod main course was silky smooth and came with wilted leeks, clams, and a few roguemushrooms (oddly). But it’s their rice pudding with salted-butter caramel sauce that La Régalade ismost famous for. In fact, Chef Doucet and Chef Jégo (from L’Ami Jean above) are riz-au-lait rivals,and the jury was out among our group as to which was better! Guess you should just go judge foryourself…

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 5 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

Chef Doucet’s squid ink risotto at La Régalade

SanukiyaAnd now for something completely different. SanukiyaSanukiya is a Japanese udon restaurant that hasqueues out the door every lunch and dinner time. I waited for about 20 minutes to get my spot atthe bar, where I ordered the Tempura Udon – thick noodles in a light broth with two battered, but-terflied, deep-fried king prawns. With hindsight, I wish I’d ordered something different (I have it ongood authority from one of my Facebook followers that Yama Wakame is the udon dish to go for)but I was seduced by the look of the tempura prawns that everyone seemed to be getting. In real-ity, tempura batter and broth don’t really mix: the batter turns to a soggy mush in a matter ofseconds, and you’re left with double-carb soup. But that wouldn’t stop me recommending thisplace, albeit you should expect to wait in line and pay for that popularity.

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 6 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

Tempura udon at Sanukiya Japanese restaurant

For the Smaller Appetite: Best Cafés in Paris

If you’re looking for lunch, a snack, weekend brunch, or just coffee, you probably don’t want a bigmeal at a restaurant. And in those cases, here are three of my top café picks for a lighter meal.

BagnardInspired by the food of Marseille, BagnardBagnard got started because there was something Paris wasn’tdoing food-wise (or at least wasn’t doing very well): the pan bagnat and the salade Niçoise. Unsur-prisingly, we tried both and enjoyed them immensely. I make a pretty mean salad myself, so I’mquite picky when it comes to a Niçoise – this one was worth every cent (although it was surpris-ingly inexpensive to begin with). The pan bagnat came filled with speck, burrata, rocket and toma-toes, and the crusty bread was soaked in a black-olive dressing – which is frankly what elevates apan bagnat from a regular ol’ sarnie. I’d also recommend Bagnard’s pissaladiere (think onion andanchovy pizza, but better than that sounds like it would be) as well as their Pastis, basil and lemoncocktail (it’s so green that it feels like a perfectly healthy 11 am drink).

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 7 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

Bagnard serves arguably the best salade Niçoise in Paris

PaperBoy ParisFor the most generously filled sandwiches in the 11 (Oberkampf area), try PaperBoy ParisPaperBoy Paris. Minewas stuffed with pastrami, cheese and gherkins, and was so big that I kept half of it for an after-noon snack later on. Their coffees and juices are good too.

th

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 8 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

Stuffed-to-bursting sandwiches at PaperBoy Paris

Hardware SociétéAn Aussie-style brunch spot at the foot of the Montmartre steps, Hardware Société Hardware Société is one of thefew places I found in Paris that serves a decent flat white. I didn’t manage to eat there (I was on myway to catch the train home from Gare du Noord at the time), but the two other foodies I was withstayed for brunch and reported good things about their lobster benedict and other luxurious-sounding dishes.

For the Oenophile: Paris Wine Bar

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 9 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

If you’re heading to PaperBoy Paris or Tannat (see above), why not stop in for a glass of wine in theOberkampf area after lunch or before dinner? Le 11eme DomaineLe 11eme Domaine is a wine-shop-cum-wine-barthat serves a wide range of (mostly French) wines by the glass or bottle. I tried this rosé from theLanguedoc, which made a perfect aperitif before dinner at Tannat. But beware: there’s some funnyFrench law that means you have to order at least a snack with your wine at Le 11eme Domaine;I’m not sure why but we somehow got into trouble for not knowing.

Languedoc rosé at Le 11eme Domaine wine bar – perfect for spring

For the Shopaholic: Speciality Food Shops in Paris St. Germain

The St. Germain area is nirvana for foodies – especially those with a sweet tooth. Here’s just a se-lection of the tantalising food shops we visited on our food tour with Promenade des SensPromenade des Sens in the18 arrondissement.th

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 10 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

Pierre Marcol iniPierre Marcol ini – for top-quality Belgian chocolates.Henri Le RouxHenri Le Roux – for classic salted butter caramels.Macarons Gourmands Yannick LefortMacarons Gourmands Yannick Lefort – for handmade macarons in every flavourimaginable, including several rather unusual combinations… The foie gras macaron wassurprisingly moreish!Marchande de SaveursMarchande de Saveurs – for every kind of gourmet delicacy from award-winning jam andflavoured “pearls” (think taste-bombs of truffle or yuzu), to honey vinegar and espelettemustard. (Yup, espelette pepper seems to be the ingredient of the moment!)

Salted butter caramels at Henri le Roux

For the Aspiring Chef: Cooking Classes in Paris

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 11 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

Remember what I was saying at the beginning about French chefs and my slightly off-piste cookingstyle? Enter Chef Guillaume, who taught me and several others how to make macarons at cookingschool La Cuisine ParisLa Cuisine Paris. Putting us through our paces with boiling sugar, piping bags and egg-white folding, this chef was not to be messed with. By the end of the lesson I wasn’t sure if the fearhe inspired in us all was genuine or joking; perhaps a combination of the two. Either way, we cameout of class each with our own box of (almost) perfectly formed macarons in different colours andflavours – passionfruit and mint macarons filled with either dark or milk chocolate ganache. (Minewere the orange ones – I’m nearly Dutch, after all.)

Macarons: the product of our cooking class at La Cuisine Paris

Run by a lovely British lady who was considerably less scary than Chef Guillaume, La Cuisine Pariswould make a great afternoon activity for aspiring chefs and home cooks looking to master the artof patisserie, classic French sauces and more.

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 12 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

For the Extreme Foodie: Tour of Rungis Market

When I say “extreme foodie”, I mean it. I always thought my foodie credentials were pretty solid un-til I found myself watching a calf’s head being butchered at 5.30 in the morning. But I’m gettingahead of myself. The world-famous Rungis Internat ional MarketRungis Internat ional Market is the place where restaurat-eurs and retailers come to buy their fresh produce – from lobster to liver and from roquefort to rhu-barb. But for regular punters, the only way you can get a glimpse behind the scenes of the world’slargest wholesale market is to get up at stupid o’clock in the morning and take a four-hour tour.

The first stop is the fish market, which opens at 2 am and closes at 6 am, so this is truly the red-eye flight of food tours. Huge styrofoam boxes of glistening-finned fish and blue-shelled crusta-ceans sit on more ice than you can shake an American fridge at – and it’s not as stinky as youmight think. It is, however, extremely cold. Every warehouse is set at about 2°C, so dress warmlyor be prepared to shiver. Next, we saw two meat warehouses: one in charge of butchering entirecows, the other responsible for making the most of all the grizzly bits. That’s where the calf’s headmade its appearance: in two minutes flat, the butcher had deftly separated the skin and brainsfrom the rest of the head, and prepped the remainder for some chef to turn into tête de veau. I wasstarting to regret my hangover in more ways than one.

11/05/2017 16)29A Foodie's Guide to Paris

Page 13 sur 15http://www.amsterdamfoodie.nl/2017/paris-food-guide/

Not for the fainthearted: a tour of Rungis Market

From there, things got a little less gruesome (although you can still expect to see chickens withtheir heads intact, fluffy rabbits, and so on in the poultry warehouse) and it was onto my favourite:the cheese. Enormous wheels of gruyere nuzzled up against entire cases of the King of Cheeses:Vacherin Mont d’Or. In April, the fresh fruit and veg halls were less interesting than they might havebeen at other times of year, as not a whole lot of local produce was in season at the time. At theend of the tour, you’re taken for breakfast at one of the onsite restaurants: croissants, bread,cheese, fruit – the usual French fare. The whole experience costs €85, including transport to andfrom the market as it’s well outside of the Périphérique. Just make sure you’ve scheduled in a napafterwards. And probably leave your vegetarian friends at home…

For more information on the restaurants and activities featured inthis Paris Food Guide…