ACTION VOLUNTEERS FOR ANIMALS P.O. Box 18233 RPO Steeple Hill, Pickering ON L1V 0B8

416-439-8770 ava2009@actionvolunteersforanimals.com

www.actionvolunteersforanimals.com

Queens and Kittens

Fostering a Pregnant Cat, A Queen and Her Kittens, or Orphaned Kittens

(A Foster Home Care Manual)

Cheryl C. 2015

DRAFT-AVA-MANUAL-FOSTERING-Queens_And_Kittens-REV201505140145

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"Cats do not declare their love much; they enact it, by their myriad invocations of our pleasure."

― Vicki Hearne

Table of Contents Fostering ................................................................................................................................................................................. 4

What to Expect ........................................................................................................................................................................ 4

Appropriate Foster Homes for Queens and Kittens ............................................................................................................... 4

Foster Proofing Your Home..................................................................................................................................................... 4

Cleaning Before and After Your Fosters .............................................................................................................................. 4

Safety Check ........................................................................................................................................................................ 5

Toxic Substances Inside the Home – Poisons: .................................................................................................................... 5

Pregnant Cats (Queens) and the Birthing Process .................................................................................................................. 5

Birthing Stages ........................................................................................................................................................................ 6

1. Nesting ............................................................................................................................................................................ 6

2. Behavioural Changes ....................................................................................................................................................... 6

3. Physical Signs of Labour .................................................................................................................................................. 6

4. Active Labour .................................................................................................................................................................. 6

5. During the Birth ............................................................................................................................................................... 6

Caring for the Mother Cat and Kittens .................................................................................................................................... 7

Kitten Feeding Schedule ..................................................................................................................................................... 8

Caring for Ignored or Orphaned Kittens ................................................................................................................................. 9

Daily Care While Fostering .................................................................................................................................................... 10

Health Monitoring ............................................................................................................................................................. 10

Recognizing Illness in Your Foster ..................................................................................................................................... 10

Giving Medications and Providing Medical Care .................................................................................................................. 11

Giving a Pill ........................................................................................................................................................................ 11

Liquid Medication ............................................................................................................................................................. 11

Hiding Medication in Food ................................................................................................................................................ 11

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Feeding .................................................................................................................................................................................. 11

Weaning /Solid Food ......................................................................................................................................................... 12

The Litter Box ........................................................................................................................................................................ 12

Laundry ................................................................................................................................................................................. 12

Cleaning (Daily) ..................................................................................................................................................................... 12

Play Time/ Appropriate Play ................................................................................................................................................. 12

Handling and Grooming ........................................................................................................................................................ 13

Feline Behaviour ................................................................................................................................................................... 14

Inappropriate Elimination/House Soiling .............................................................................................................................. 14

Socialization .......................................................................................................................................................................... 14

New People ....................................................................................................................................................................... 14

New Environments ............................................................................................................................................................ 14

New Noises ....................................................................................................................................................................... 14

Final Steps to Adoption ......................................................................................................................................................... 15

Adoption From the Foster Home .......................................................................................................................................... 15

Adoption From One of AVA’s Adoption Centres ................................................................................................................... 15

When Transporting Your Foster Kitten,................................................................................................................................. 16

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Fostering Kitten season refers to the time of year when most kittens are born, encompassing early spring to late fall. This can be truly problematic for animal shelters and rescue groups

because too many kittens and too few foster homes mean that resources are stretched to the limit. By agreeing to foster for AVA you can help us save lives and alleviate the abundance of homeless, helpless kittens.

Fostering a pregnant cat and caring for her until she gives birth and then continuing to care for her and her kittens is a very special type of fostering that can be very rewarding.

However, before taking on such a fostering job you must be prepared to make a substantial commitment of time and energy and probably for at least 8 weeks. Please take this into consideration when you take on this type of fostering.

What to Expect Your AVA Foster Contact Person will deliver your foster animal(s) and supplies and go over feeding and any medication instructions. She will help you set up and kitten proof the

sanctuary room/space and answer your questions. She will be your immediate contact person and will check in with you regularly over the next several days. Your questions or

concerns should be directed her way without hesitation. She will give you an emergency contact list of names and numbers.

Appropriate Foster Homes for Queens and Kittens Queens and kittens must be housed inside the home at all times in a relatively quiet, calm, low-activity environment. They are not to be kept in a garage, on a balcony, in an unfinished, unheated basement, or outside. They need to be situated in their own space or ‘Sanctuary Room’, away from your pets, young children and general high traffic areas. The room should have a door that can be kept closed as this is crucial for new-born kittens.

No young children should have access to this space or room without parental supervision at all times.

Caring for kittens can be quite time consuming but if the mother is feeding her kittens the

task can be less intensive. However if the mother is absent or unable to feed, supplemental feeding will be required. Supplemental feeding takes place every 2 hours, 24 hours a day in

the early stages and is reduced later to every 4 hours, 24 hours a day.

Foster Proofing Your Home Proper hygiene is important to minimize the spread of disease before your foster arrives and

after it leaves.

Cleaning Before and After Your Fosters

All surfaces should be wiped down with a diluted water/bleach solution of 10%

bleach; ½ cup bleach to a gallon of water – ‘Scrubbing Bubbles’ spray cleaner can be used.

Do not use Lysol, Pine Sol, 409, Spic and Span, or any cleaner ending with ‘ol’

as these are highly toxic to felines. Refer to laundry section under Daily Care While Fostering.

It may be necessary to throw out an item instead of washing it; especially if your foster had ringworm or feline panleukopenia as these germs are more resistant and easily spread.

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It is important to remove any smell of urine on the floor and furniture so that your next foster doesn’t pee or poop in the same spots.

You may need to use a pet odour neutralizer (enzymatic cleaner), which can be purchased at a pet supply store, just follow the label instructions.

If you can smell or see a urine stain, wash the item more than once and use a one pound box of baking soda with the laundry soap.

For any stubborn stains, Nature’s Miracle (www.naturemakesitwork.com) comes

highly recommended and all you do is soak any surface with it and let it dry; check the website.

Safety Check

Remove all things that kittens might break or harmful substances they might ingest.

Keep all craft supplies in a closed container as needles, thread and balls of yarn can be fatal to a cat if swallowed.

Secure window blinds so the cats cannot get tangled up in the cord and strangle. Clear the floor of stray rubber bands, ribbon and string as they are all hazardous

when ingested by a kitten.

Keep cupboard doors and dresser drawers securely closed. Cover electric cords with covers sold for that purpose.

Make sure all heating and air vents have a cover Always check your refrigerator and dryer to ensure a kitten has not jumped inside Remove all household plants.

Please ensure that all the toilet lids in your home are down at all times as kittens can drown in a toilet bowl very quickly.

If your floors are carpeted, you may wish to put a vinyl covering over the area where

your foster will be - See the dollar type stores for tarps which work well.

Toxic Substances Inside the Home – Poisons:

Human medications including commonly used painkillers such as ASA, aspirin and

ibuprofen. Antidepressants, cold medications, diet pills and recreational drugs also pose a serious threat.

All medications (including your pets’) should be kept secure and out of reach. The list of toxic houseplants is extensive. Some of the more common toxic plants

include: lilies, sago palm, amaryllis, English ivy, pothos, aloe vera, daffodils, and

chrysanthemums. A surprising number of foods that are great for us to eat can have serious

consequences when ingested by a pet. Best bet is to keep your pet, people food free.

The following is a non-exclusive list of common food toxins: chocolate, grapes/raisins, onions, alcohol, avocados, gum/candy (xylitol), garlic, rhubarb.

Cedar and softwood shavings, although still commonly sold in pet stores, are actually toxic to small domestic species and should never be used as a cage liner.

The real secret to kitten proofing your home is to look at each room through the eyes

of a kitten. Find everything that looks like it might make a great toy, and if it is something harmful, remove it from the room and put it away.

Pregnant Cats (Queens) and the Birthing Process

The gestational period is from 57 to 69 days with the average being 63 days.

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The number of kittens is usually between two to five, sometimes more. The queen should be eating kitten food during her pregnancy and while nursing as

this provides her with better nutrition to do the job.

The queen must be kept indoors and in the sanctuary room prior to and after birth. Never let her out of the home as she could become pregnant again even while nursing or suffer some trauma and never return.

Birthing Stages

1. Nesting

The queen should be kept in her Sanctuary Room at all times. A few days before delivery, the queen will begin to show signs of ‘nesting’ behaviour. In order to assist the queen with finding a ‘nesting’ area you can provide her with a cardboard box that is big enough for her

to stretch out and nurse her kittens when they arrive. The box should be lined with clean newspaper. Place the box in a quiet spot in the sanctuary room. If the Queen does not take

to the box simply move it to another area of the room if possible and see if she will use it there.

2. Behavioural Changes

You may notice a number of changes in the queen’s behaviour prior to her going into

labour, it is important to know what are normal changes as opposed to behaviour that may require veterinary attention. Normal behaviour may include; restless pacing, panting, excessive grooming (especially in the area of her genitals), and excessive vocalization. In the

days leading up to labour she may also become increasingly affectionate, wanting to be near you at all times. Of course the opposite could also be true and a queen may withdraw from human contact and instead stay close to her ‘nesting’ area often sleeping more than

usual.

3. Physical Signs of Labour

A few days leading up to the active labour there are a few physical signs that you can watch for. The abdomen may ‘drop’, the nipples may become larger and pinker in preparation for

feeding. Approximately twenty-four hours prior to labour you may also notice a milky discharge from her nipples. Leading up to labour there will likely be a drop in body

temperature; the normal temperature in cats is between 100.4°F and 102.5°F.

4. Active Labour

At this stage the contractions will have started and you will see the appearance of the amniotic sac, you may also see a discharge of blood or other coloured fluid. For the most part the queen will take care of this by herself but you must keep a close watch and

intervene if anything seems to be going wrong. Please advise your Foster Contact Person if you feel that things are not going well and the mother cat should see a veterinarian.

5. During the Birth The entire birthing process may take up to six hours. The first kitten should arrive within

an hour of the start of active labor, and subsequent kittens will take anywhere from 30 to 60 minutes. She may rest for 15 minutes or so between kittens. This allows the mother cat to remove the kitten from its amniotic sac and stimulate the kittens to breathe by washing

them with her rough tongue.

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She will also sever the umbilical cord by chewing on it approximately one inch from the kitten's body. The placenta should be expelled after each kitten, at which point the queen

should eat it. It is important to count the placentas in case one of the placentas is not expelled.

If there is a break for over four hours and you are sure there are remaining kittens, the queen should be examined by a veterinarian. Notify your Foster Contact Person immediately.

If the queen ignores the kitten and it is still in its sac, it will be up to you to carefully cut

the sac and stimulate the kitten's breathing by rubbing it gently with a small, rough, dry towel. Ensure that the kitten’s airways are clear otherwise the kitten may suffocate.

The kittens should immediately gravitate toward a nipple, latch on, and begin to nurse. If

they do not you should help them by placing them near a nipple. In the event that a kitten does not feed off the mother you may need to feed it, and in the case the kitten is rejected

by the mother hand rearing may be necessary.

Make sure there is plenty of food (kitten type) and water close by as soon as all the kittens are born; the queen will want to eat. Keep plenty of fresh water on hand as she must stay

hydrated.

Make sure that mother cat and her newborn kittens are warm and dry. They must not get

chilled. It might be necessary to use a heating pad set on the low setting in the ‘nesting’ box. Be careful to monitor the heating pad at all times and check on mom and kittens as often as possible.

Caring for the Mother Cat and Kittens

When the kittens are born it is important to keep a chart of their daily weights, and

to also check that they are nursing and that the mother cat has enough milk. Kittens weigh anywhere from 80-140 grams, they should gain 100 grams a week.

If the queen, for some reason is not feeding the kittens, or they are just not getting

enough milk to gain weight, you will have to intervene and force feed them by syringe. See the next section, Chart B, for specific instructions.

Monitor the kittens while they are eating to ensure that they all get their equal share and none are being pushed to the side. Mother cats may refuse to feed the weaker kittens, or kittens with deformities, so you will have to.

Mother cat will try to keep her ‘nesting’ box as clean as she can but it will become soiled. Use disposable cardboard boxes high enough that the kittens do not fall or roll

out, put clean newspaper on the bottom with washable or disposable bedding over top.

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Kitten Feeding Schedule

It is important to keep a daily record on each kitten.

Daily Monitoring sheets have been supplied for your use.

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Caring for Ignored or Orphaned Kittens

If the mother cat ignores her kittens or if you are fostering kittens that are orphaned,

it is extremely important to keep the kittens warm at all times. Orphaned kittens can die quickly if they are chilled. Use a heating pad on one side of the ‘nesting’ box only, so that the kittens can move away if they get too warm. It is important to keep the

pad at a low setting and cover it with a towel or blanket that is tightly tucked in so the kittens do not get caught in the bedding and smother.

Sometimes it is helpful to wrap a hot water bottle in a cozy towel or blanket and put it in the ‘nesting’ box with the kittens for warmth and comfort.

AVA will provide you with a commercial kitten formula such a KMR or equivalent,

feeding bottles or syringes, feeding chart and record keeping sheets as it is important to record each kitten’s weight daily, and how much it eats.

Your Foster Contact Person will show you how to read Chart B in order to figure out

how much to feed and how often. Feeding a chilled kitten can be fatal, so wait until its temperature is up to its normal range of 95° F to 99° F before attempting to feed

it. If a kitten's temperature falls below 94° F it must be warmed gradually to avoid

metabolic shock. At the same time, give it Pedialyte (the same stuff sold for human babies) to hydrate and prevent shock, which can be found at drugstores.

Chart B Kitten Feeding Schedule includes instructions for feeding by age and weight

of the kitten. Tiny kittens will need to eat as many as 12 meals daily, one feeding every two hours around the clock. You must plan to be available for all of those

vital and very important feedings. To know how much to feed and how often, check Chart B. For example, a one week

old kitten weighing 100g needs KMR formula with a ratio of 1:3; the first number

indicates the powdered KMR and the second number is the water; so this kitten would need one level scoop of the KMR powder mixed with 3 scoops of warm water.

Repeat that ratio a few times to mix up enough of the KMR formula to last for several feedings over 24 hours and store it in the fridge.

Sterilize syringes/feeding bottles with boiling water before filling with kitten formula

for each feeding. If using syringes, they should be carefully washed immediately after each feeding with warm water and separated to dry. They can be reused.

Do not warm formula in the microwave – it creates hot spots that might burn the

kitten’s mouth. Instead set the filled bottle in a bowl of very warm water to raise it to the right temperature. If using a syringe, fill the syringe from the bottle containing

the heated formula. It is important to warm the formula so the kittens do not get tummy pains.

Use a whisk, not an electric blender to mix the KMR to maintain the nutritional value.

Wrap the kitten up like a burrito in a small, soft towel or cat blanket with only its head sticking out as this will help keep it from squirming and simplifies the feeding

process. Try to stimulate the kitten to pee/poop before you start to feed it rather than after it has

been fed. Feed kittens while they are resting on their tummies, not held in your arms like a

human baby. Tipping them on their backs to feed can cause them to aspirate fluid

into their lungs.

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If aspiration occurs, support the kitten’s head while turning it upside down; place its back to your chest and gently rub its chest. (You should call your Foster Contact

Person immediately). Make sure the formula is warm and that you have the correct amount for the kitten

in front of you. Place the syringe in the side of the kitten’s mouth and release the plunger slowly, allowing a small amount out at a time.

Let the kitten breathe as you feed it, do not rush.

Try to feed the kitten the amount that is indicated on Chart B for its age and weight, never double the amount. If the kitten seems to want more, leave it and finish feeding

the others then go back to that same kitten. Make sure that it has pooped /peed at least once recently, and then you can give it one more syringe full.

If the kittens are eating well but still seem hungry, then it may be time to increase

their daily amount or add some solid food; see Chart B for specific instructions. Until the kittens are about three weeks old, they will need help with urinating and

defecating. If it did not pee before being fed, then stimulate it after. Use a warm, damp, slightly rough washcloth to stimulate the anus and urinary openings.

Once you have fed your kittens, it is important to make sure that you have cleaned

all the KMR formula off their fur by using a soft cloth rinsed in warm water. Any formula left on the fur can irritate the skin and cause pieces of fur to fall out.

Kittens should be cleaned after feeding with a warm, damp cloth. Ensure that kittens

are completely dry before returning them to the mother cat or their ‘nesting’ box. Once you have opened a tin of KMR, it must be refrigerated.

At three or four weeks, you can start training the kittens to eat food from a dish. Do so by mixing some canned kitten food with the KMR formula and mush it until it is a thick liquid. You will probably need to introduce the kittens to the food by putting a

bit of the mixture on your fingertip, then showing them the saucer of food. As the kittens learn to eat and enjoy their ‘mush’, you can gradually reduce the amount of

KMR formula. By four weeks of age you can introduce some solid food as long as the kittens have been eating and gaining weight. AVA will provide you with canned and dry kitten food.

As soon as the kittens start eating solid food, a bowl of water should be available at all times.

Daily Care While Fostering

Health Monitoring It is very important to monitor your foster’s health on a daily basis as many rescue kittens

have been exposed to illness before they come into our program. Should you notice any of the following conditions in your foster kittens or you feel that something is not right, please

do not hesitate to get in touch with your Foster Contact Person immediately.

Recognizing Illness in Your Foster

lack of appetite and weight loss increase in drinking

dragging hindquarters on the floor lethargy (lack of energy)

diarrhea lasting more than 3 or 4 feedings (2 feedings for kittens) bloody diarrhea of any duration dehydration

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constipation, bloating vomiting

coughing and sneezing, runny discharge from nose or eyes difficulty breathing needs medical assessment immediately

straining to urinate needs medical assessment immediately bleeding and/or trauma caused by accident or fall needs medical assessment

immediately

Giving Medications and Providing Medical Care Should your foster require medication, the following instructions should be useful. Kittens are not always very co-operative when getting medications, so if you are having trouble

medicating your foster, please advise your Foster Contact Person and she will help you. It is imperative that your foster receives the necessary medication as prescribed.

Giving a Pill

Place one hand on top of the kitten’s head so the thumb and forefinger are on either

side of its jaw, tilt the head back until the nose points up. The mouth should open a little.

Hold the pill between the thumb and forefinger of the other hand and use the middle finger to gently open the kitten’s mouth.

Drop the pill as far back into the throat as possible and quickly push the pill back in

the mouth by putting your finger between the top and bottom canines. Do not put your finger in from the side of the kitten’s mouth because you are more likely to be

bitten that way. Close the kitten’s mouth and keep the head still tilted back, and stroke the throat to

encourage it to swallow. Release the kitten when you are sure that the pill has been

swallowed. Praise and comfort the kitten when finished. If you prefer them, you may use a ‘pill poppers’, which are easier for some people to use for giving pills.

For more information on administering all types of medications, check the internet and try www.petfinder.com

Liquid Medication Liquid medication is drawn into a syringe for exact dosing. The kitten is held in the same manner as giving a pill but instead of pushing the liquid straight back into its mouth,

slowly push the liquid into the side of its mouth.

Hiding Medication in Food

Ideally, medication should be given directly to your foster to ensure it is receiving the necessary dosage. However, if it is very nervous or fearful, liquid medication or crushed

tablets can be hidden in a small amount of strong smelling canned food. This should be mixed into a very small serving, about a tablespoon, and the best time is in the morning when your foster is hungry.

Feeding AVA will supply a good quality food. Please feed your foster according to instructions given. Please do not change the type of food without consulting with your Foster Contact Person.

Do not feed human food to your foster as this can be toxic. Provide fresh water daily.

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Specific feeding instructions will be provided by your Foster Contact Person as well as suitable wet and dry kitten type food.

See Chart B and pages in the ‘Caring for Ignored or Orphaned Kittens’ section.

Weaning /Solid Food

Keep note of your foster’s eating habits, how much it eats, does it prefer wet or dry, how it eats? (sucking, nibbling, chewing, swallowing whole chunks) Use the Foster Kitten Daily Monitoring Sheet.

By four weeks of age the kittens should be introduced to solid food which means using the A/D or Recovery canned food and adding some to the KMR bit by bit. See Chart B and by

then you should check with your Foster Contact Person for more instructions.

The Litter Box

Scoop the litter box at least once a day. Keep the litter box in a quiet, low traffic area that is easily accessible to the kitten.

Monitor diarrhea, constipation, straining to urinate or excessive urination. Yesterday’s News litter should be used for young kittens.

Do not use scented litter. Litter should be dumped and changed every second or third day and the box washed.

Laundry

It is recommended that you wash any animal laundry separate from your family’s. Remove as much dirt, fur and feces before putting the item in the washer as these

can hold germs and play havoc with your machines. Your regular soap will do, use hot water. Add bleach, a routine amount recommended for your machine (1/2 – 1 cup).

Dry in a dryer as this also kills germs. Do not use fabric softeners, only unscented dryer sheets can be used.

Cleaning (Daily)

Remove soiled bedding, cat mats, sheets etc.

Surface areas need to be wiped down with dish soap and a water/10% bleach solution and remember to rinse.

Vacuum or sweep up spilled litter, pick up bits of toys and anything that could prove

dangerous.

Play Time/ Appropriate Play Playtime should be a vital part of your foster’s daily activities. It gives you a chance for

some bonding and fun time while allowing your foster the opportunity to practise its survival skills. Try to provide at least two play sessions every day as this helps your foster

learn to trust humans and prepare for adoption.

You must set the house rules for your foster kitten’s behaviour and everyone whom your kitten interacts with must reinforce these rules.

Kittens need a lot of daily playtime. Young cats often show aggressive behaviour during play: batting, pouncing, even

biting make believe prey (toy).

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They can use exploratory, investigative and predatory behaviour as well. Always try to redirect any aggressive behaviour onto toys by dragging, dangling or

throwing a toy. Some good kitten toys are: anything on a stick or string, furry toy mice, rubber or

plastic balls, any small toy that makes noise like prey. Give your foster a larger, soft stuffed toy to wrestle with as this is one way young cats

play.

Discourage your foster from playing with your hands or feet, always redirect to a toy. If after all your attempts to discourage inappropriate play, you feel that your kitten is

playing too roughly, simply stop all attention and leave the room.

Do not pick up the kitten and take it to a ‘time out’ spot as you will be reinforcing the behaviour you want to change because the kitten will not make the connection.

You must be the one to leave; close the door long enough to make your point, be consistent with this course of action and your foster should get the message.

During rough play, never slap, tap, flick or hit as your kitten will become afraid of

your hands. Do not leave out string, shoelaces, any wand toys, feather toys, also toys with pieces

that can be chewed or swallowed. Make small changes in the room setup, move items around so that the kittens

develop observation skills, learn to expect change and anticipate the unknown.

Handling and Grooming

Sit down at floor level and approach your foster from behind, rather than hand

outstretched at its face. Start by wrapping the kitten up in a soft towel or cat blanket before picking it up to

manage any squirming and settle it down. With the body covered except for the head, gently hold the kitten to your chest; pet

the chin, ears and top of head area.

Talk to it softly, go slowly, be gentle and observe the signs your foster gives. Some kittens may be sensitive in certain areas such as the back, abdomen and paws. Tail swishing, pupils dilating, ears flattening are signals that your foster has become

over stimulated and you need to stop what you are doing. Be gentle when touching your foster and encourage affection – there’s nothing like

kissing a kitten. Stop once the kitten starts to squirm a lot, but come back every 20 minutes or so and

repeat the process over and over as often as possible.

After a while you will not need to wrap the kitten and you should hear it start to purr. Give the kitten time to settle in and get to know you before attempting to brush it. Kittens need to be brushed and they should enjoy it, so start with a very soft-bristled

brush, like a baby’s brush. Remember kittens are not familiar with brushing so start slowly, take your time, and do not give up. This is the time to inspect the kitten all

over. Kittens may also enjoy full head to tail petting once they are comfortable with you. Try to pick up your kitten as many times a day as possible, making it a pleasant

experience for all.

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Feline Behaviour Scratching is a very natural activity for a kitten and essential exercise to maintain healthy muscles. Its muscles can weaken due to an inability to stretch if it does not have a suitable

place to scratch. A kitten uses its claws to defend, to climb, to exercise, to mark its territory and for an emotional release if it is stressed or excited.

Trim nails. Provide a scratching post, a vertical one is best; train the kitten to use it by dragging

a stick toy over it or shining a laser dot on it. Cover any area or piece of furniture that your foster has chosen to scratch; double-

sided tape will help.

Inappropriate Elimination/House Soiling There are a number of reasons that a kitten may choose not to use the litter box.

Make sure that the box is in a quiet, low traffic area, away from its food

A dirty box, use of too much litter.

Kittens want the box to be clean and they need to be able to scratch the bottom of it. Changing the type of litter: Take time to change over the type of litter by adding some

of the new type to the old type; this could take a week or two.

Anxiety or stress: The kitten is now in yet another strange place with unfamiliar people and smells.

Aversion: The lingering scent from the use of deodorizers, cleaners, scented litter.

Territorial behaviour: If reusing a litter box, make sure that it has been thoroughly cleaned with a water/bleach solution.

Medical reasons: House soiling can indicate a number of medical issues; so watch and listen. If you hear the kitten crying while in the box and there is only a small amount of urine, then notify your Foster Contact Person regarding an immediate visit

to the vet.

Socialization

New People

Invite your friends or family to visit and meet your fosters while you control the

interaction, keeping the kittens safe. Use the toys, and insist all shoes off and that everyone is down at floor level. Keep in mind that most people have no idea how to handle kittens.

New Environments If your foster seems to have adjusted well to the ‘safe room’, and there are other

rooms that you can kitten proof, then allow your foster to explore some of these new spaces. Provide toys and interactive play but keep the session brief.

New Noises It is always helpful to expose your kitten to as many of the normal house noises as

possible. Start with radio/TV with the volume on low. Work up to running the electric broom or vacuum briefly near the safe room but behind the closed door.

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Final Steps to Adoption When you feel that your foster kitten is ready for adoption, please notify your Foster Contact Person. Usually AVA’s kittens are adopted through the Adoption Centre program in

a number of PetSmart or Pet Valu stores throughout the GTA. However, sometimes a kitten does better if adopted directly from its foster home. If you feel comfortable with perspective adopters coming into your home to meet your foster, then the adoption can be done this

way.

Often AVA participates in weekend adopt-a-thon events and your foster kitten would be

included in these events if it is ready.

Adoption From the Foster Home Notify your Foster Contact Person that you believe your foster kitten is ready for adoption.

Please complete the Foster Return-Behaviour Profile sheet which goes with your foster and helps an adopter make an informed decision. You will find these at the

back of the manual. Fill out a sheet for each kitten.

Arrangements will be made for a photo and description of your foster to be posted on the AVA website and on the AVA Facebook page. If you can, take photos of your foster and add captions to entice prospective adopters. Your Foster Contact Person

will advise what to do with the photos. If you are unable to have photos taken, then your Foster Contact Person may be able

to arrange this.

Foster applications will be screened by the Adoption Coordinator and only applicants who are felt to be suitable will be asked to contact you to set up a time that is

convenient for both of to meet. If you have any questions or concerns during your meeting with the prospective

Adopters, please call the Adoption Coordinator or your Foster Contact Person before

the adoption is finalized. The Adoption Coordinator or your Foster Contact Person will provide you with the

adoption papers that must be read and signed by the Adopter and you as the AVA representative. You will be asked to collect the adoption fee at this time.

When it is time for your foster kitten to go to their forever home, please pack a small

amount of both wet and dry food that they have been eating, some toys, a cat blanket, etc, to help make the transition to their new home easier.

Please ensure that the medical paperwork and all records go with the kitten.

Adoption From One of AVA’s Adoption Centres Notify your Foster Contact Person that you believe your foster kitten is ready for adoption.

You will be notified when a space becomes available in one of the adoption centres.

The timeframe for this will vary depending on the number of kittens and cats in the

AVA program. Please complete the Foster Return-Behavioural Profile Sheet. Your Foster Contact Person will pick up your foster or ask you to bring your foster

into the adoption centre at a mutually agreed upon time. Please bring a few favourite toys, a cat blanket, some wet and dry kitten food, etc. Remember your kitten’s medical paperwork and records.

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When Transporting Your Foster Kitten,

always reassure that the cat carrier is sturdy and in good condition.

ALWAYS RECHECK THAT THE DOOR IS SECURELY LOCKED!

The more love you give, the more love you get back.