NURUL AQILA AHAMAD KAMAL 1412832

3RD YEAR CONSERVATION DESIGNLECTURER : MDM. RAJABI ABDUL RAZAK

THE ART OF LEATHER‘MINI STOOL INSPIRED FROM NUSANTARA CILIZATION’

INTRODUCTION

NUSANTARA?Nusantara is a contemporary Indonesian term for

the Indonesian archipelago. It originated in Old

Javanese and literally means "archipelago". In

Malay, Nusantara means the Malay world.

LEATHER?Leather is the name given to animal hides and

skins which have been processed and tanned to

create a durable material.

Fig 1: Stacks of Raw LeatherSource: Leather France, (2009)

INTERESTING FACTS

- In 1965, a

type of sheep leather,

shearlings, was used to prevent and treat bed

sores for patients who had long

stays in hospitals.

HISTORY

HISTORY?

• Through archaeologist's findings, we know

that primitive man used the skins of hunted

animals for food as well as clothing.

• The fact that the skins turned stiff and

rotted was a problem, but ways of softening

and preserving the hides were discovered.

• This was the beginning of leather

processing.

• At first the hides or skins were probably

dried in air and sunlight.

HISTORY?

Fig 2: The animal were harvested once caught.Source: Ojibwa (2012)

Fig 3: Hides were staked out in sun to dry.Source: Ojibwa (2012)

TIMELINE

TIMELINE?

-Use of raw hide.

-Preservation with fats, brains and wood smoke, a method still used by some.

Early Man

- Excavation of Palaeolithic sites has yielded bone tools used for scraping hides and skins to remove hair. Their shape is similar to modern tools used for the same purpose.

- Wall paintings and artefacts found in excavated tombs show that leather was used for sandals, clothes, gloves, buckets, bottles, shrouds for burying the dead and for military equipment.

40,000 BC - 10,000 BC

(Palaeolithic)Ancient Egypt

- According to Homer, the god Ailos gave Odysseus a leather bag filled with storm winds to help him reach Ithaca.

- From around the same time as Homer, leather scrolls have been found with translations of Babylonian texts into Aramaic and Greek.

- Widespread use of leather for footwear, clothes, military equipment including shields, saddles and harnesses.

- Excavation of Roman sites in Great Britain has yielded large quantities of leather articles including footwear and clothing.

- Most towns and villages had a tannery, situated on a stream or river which they used as a source of water for processing and as a source of power for water wheel driven machines.

8th Century BC Roman Empire

Medieval Era

-Birth of the poet Geoffrey Chaucer which family's financial success came from involvement in wine and leather.

-The Worshipful Company of Leather sellers are granted articles for the regulation of their craft during Richard (Dick) Whittington's reign as Lord Mayor of London.

1300-160018th/19th Century

- The industrial revolution created demand for new kinds of leathers such as belting leathers to drive machinery and leathers for diaphragms and washers.

20th Century

- The demand for softer, lightweight footwear and a general rise in the standard of living created a demand for soft, supple, colourful leather.

Leather Tanning ProcessLEATHER TANNINGPROCESS

LEATHER TANNING?

• In other to make leather soft and pliable for use, it

must be put through a tanning leather process.

• Leather is usually tanned in one of two ways:

1. CHROME TANNING

2. VEGETABLE TANNING

• Leather can be made of any type of skin or hide,

however, some types of skins are better for one

purpose than another.

• The reason for tanning leather is to change the skin

or hide’s protein structure.

CHROME TANNING ?

• One good thing about chrome tanning is that it

produces leather that is very water resistant.

• On the other hand, this type of tanning process does

not produce a very breathable sort of leather.

• When chrome tanning is used, the leather will be

soaked in a solution containing metal chromium.

People with chemical sensitivities may have problems with chrome tanned leather.

• It’s important to purchase leather goods that have

tanned with environmental that ensure proper use

and disposal of the chemicals for the least

environmental impact.

CHROME TANNING ?

Fig 4: The leather are soaked in chemicals.Source: World of leathers (2016)

VEGETABLE TANNING?

• The skins are soaked in vegetable liquors.

• This is time consuming process as a series of soaks

is required.

• For a more traditional and less hazardous tanning

leather process, purchasing leather goods that have

undergone vegetable tanning is a good choice.

• Leather has been vegetable tanned is usually quite

thick, but it is still pliable. This type leather can be

mold, stretch and breathe.

• It does not stand up to heat as well and may shrink

or crack if overheated.

Fig 4: The leather are soaked in chemicals.Source: World of leathers (2016)

VEGETABLE TANNING?

CHROME TANNING & VEGETABLE TANNING ?

• This two-step process begins with chrome tanning.

• Once that process is complete, the resulting leather

in tanned again using vegetable liquors.

• Combines vegetable and chrome technique.

• The resulting leather is durable and soft because of

the chrome tanning. It is also flexible and thick

because of vegetable tanning.

• People with chemical sensitivities may have less

problems with leather produced in this manner

because the vegetable tanning process may help

remove some of the chemicals used in the chrome

tanning process.

TYPES OF LEATHER

VEGETABLE TANNING?

• The various kinds of leather used in

products are:

1. Full grain leather

2. Split leather

3. Suede leather

4. Regenerated leather

5. Coated leather

6. Faux leather

• There are various types of leather, and each

types is suited to particular applications

FULL GRAIN LEATHER• Full grain leather has not been touched up to

cover any imperfections.

• A lot of the skin on original hides gets damaged

by scratches and other imperfections and may

need to be treated to create what is known as

corrected full grain leather.

• It can be dyed and has very strong texture

and can last for generations and, in fact, starts

to look better after it has been used over a long

time.

• By far the most expensive of all types of

leather.

FULL GRAIN LEATHER

Fig 5: Full grain leather.Source: World of leathers (2016)

SUEDE LEATHER

• When such split leather is buffed on both

side it creates a soft and fuzzy surface that

is commonly known as suede leather.

• Because it can be made from many splits in

leather, it become much cheaper than full

grain leather.

• The buffing does make it vulnerable to

liquids and greatly reduces its durability.

Fig 6: Suede leather.Source: World of leathers (2016)

SUEDE LEATHER

REGENERATED LEATHER

• Regenerated leather is leather that has gone

through a manufacturing process that

compresses it, a process that make it strong

and hard wearing.

• It allows even low grades original hides to

be converted, thereby increasing the

usability of available skins.

• These type of leather are cheaper than

genuine leather.

Fig 7: Regenerated leather.Source: World of leathers (2016)

REGENERATED LEATHER

FAUX LEATHER

• Faux Leather is a fake leather that is

created from all-synthetic, man-made

materials to make for leather look-alike

fabrics that are can be difficulty to

differentiate from the genuine article.

• It is very durable and takes a lot to wear

and tear, and has great advantages over

genuine leather due to its low cost.

Fig 8: Faux Leather.Source: World of leathers (2016)

FAUX LEATHER

CASE STUDY

CASE STUDY 1:

• This bar stool is made with a solid wood

frame and top grain leather. Dark, brown

finish complements the dark brown leather

with brass nail head trim.

• Type of Product: Bar Furniture

• The function for this furniture are as the

seating for the mini bar counter.

CASE STUDY 1:

Fig 9: Counter Stool.Source: D-Art (2012

Fig 10: The wood for the

seating were measured.

Fig 11: The wood for

seating base are cut.

Fig 12: The seating are

measured and drilled.

Fig 13: A foam are cut

following the base size.

Fig 14: The foam are then

drilled.

Fig 15: The foam are then

cover by a piece of fiber

and leather.

Fig 16: A hole were made by

using big size needle and

piece of decoration are

placed on top of the hole.

Fig 17: The needle are

stapled behind the base.

Fig 18: Step 17 and 18 are

repeated.Fig 19: Finished the

leather by arrange it

nicely and stapled it.

Fig 20: The finished seating

with leather are then

attached with the stool’s leg.

Fig 21: The stool are

finished and ready to use.

CASE STUDY 2:

• Made in Manding Village, Yoogyakarta.

• Type of Product: Sling Bag

• The motif carved on the bag are influenced

by Javanese which is the lotus flower

symbolizes of longevity.

• This sling bag can be used by both male and

female.

• The function for this sling bag are for daily

uses and also suitable for any leisure

activities.

CASE STUDY 2:

Fig 22: Design were transferred to

the Leather

Fig 23: Use the swivel knife to cut the

lines..

Fig 25: Little decoration stuff

were added.Fig 26: Tool named a "seeder",

makes little circles that look like the

seeds in plants or flowers.

Fig 27: Background tool were used and

were stamp down all the background

to make the design stand out.

Fig 28: Finishing touch were

applied.

Fig 29: Finished all the leather

surrounding the beg.Fig 30: The product are finished

Fig 24: Edges were bevel to which

motif want to stand out.

CASE STUDY 3:

• Made in Manding Village, Yoogyakarta.

• Type of Product: Knife/Scissor Sheath

• This sheath usually were wear along with

the belt.

• The types of leather used is cattle and the

finishes is brown colour.

• The function of this sheath are usually used

by the fabric worker. They usually put

scissor or any other fabric tools.

CASE STUDY 3:

Leather Tanning ProcessCONSERVATION &

PRESERVATION

CONSERVATION & PRESERVATION

Fig 31: Object before treatment.

Source: Kate Fulcher (2015)

• This Medieval bag belongs to the Museum of

London collections.

CONSERVATION & PRESERVATION

• The date and (assumed) origin of the bag

suggests that it was vegetable tanned, because

this was by far the most prominent type of

tanning used in Europe in the medieval period.

• From comparisons to known samples, the leather

appears to be calf skin.

• Bags or purses of this period were worn by men

and women on a girdle or belt, and were used

to carry small items, including money.

CONSERVATION & PRESERVATION

• The treatment decided upon was designed to

remove the dressing from the leather as much

as possible, and reshape and repair to

represent the bag as originally constructed.

• The leather of the bag was in a delicate

condition, in some areas more than others, and

this situation was exasperated by the dressing,

which had led to the bag becoming very sticky

and therefore dirty. This is distracting from the

history and aesthetics of the object.

CONSERVATION & PRESERVATION

• Before cleaning, the modern stitching was

removed mechanically from the seams and the

tear.

• The dressing used on the object was likely a

complex mixture of substances; the object was

fully immersed in solvents baths of petroleum

spirit, white spirit and IMS, in total eight time.

• After drying, the object reshaped using

humidification.

CONSERVATION & PRESERVATION

Fig 32: Mend to tear on Side B.

Source: Kate Fulcher (2015)

CONSERVATION & PRESERVATION

• The leather is in a completely different condition to

the condition it was in when it came for treatment.

The leather is now slightly more flexible, and

totally different in appearance, and the leather

grain can now been seen, whereas before it was

obscured by the dressing.

Fig 33: Object

after treatment.

Source: Kate

Fulcher (2015)

CONCLUSION

CONCLUSION

• Many people appreciate leather as natural material

and are interested in – but often do not really

know which one they have on hand.

• Leather is a living material that time will embellish

and enhance with a patina, provided that it is cared

for at regular intervals, using appropriate

treatments.

• To preserve its appearance and colour, leather

should be protected from direct sunlight, heat and

water, as well as from sebum, which may cause loss

of pigment and staining on its surface.

• It is advisable to call upon an expert when

renovating leather garments and furniture.

REFERENCES1. A Brief History Of Leather (2012), Retrieved from

http://www.grittyrusticleather.com/blogs/news/120655811-a-brief-history-

of-leather, Retrieved 5th September 2016

2. BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltd, “Where does leather come from?”

(2007), Retrieved from http://www.all-about-leather.co.uk/what-is-

leather/where-does-leather-come-from.htm, Retrieved 5th September 2016

3. World of leathers, “What is the Best Tanning Leather Process?” (2016),

Retrieved from http://www.worldofleathers.com/leather-guide-and-

info/what-is-the-best-tanning-leather-process/ Retrieved 5th September 2016

4. World of leathers “The Diverse Uses for Different Types of Leather” (2016),

Retrieved from http://www.worldofleathers.com/leather-guide-and-info/the-

diverse-uses-for-different-types-of-leather/ Retrieved 6th September 2016

5. Kate Fulcher, Medieval Leather Bag Conservation (2015), Retrieved from

http://www.katefulcherconservation.com/leather-bag.html Retrieved 7th

September 2016

THANK YOU