1. National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai Presentation on Textile Internship done at : by: Arpan Mahato & Sarthak Sagar Division: Ankur Textiles

2. HISTORY OF ARVIND LTD 1930 was a year the world suffered traumatic depression, companies across the globe began closing. The three brothers Kastur Bhai, Narottam Bhai, and Chiman Bhai Lal Bhai decided to put up a mill to produce super fine fabric, next they looked around for state of the art machinery that could produce such high quality fabric. Their search ended in England. The best technology of that time was acquired at a most attractive price and a company called Arvind Limited was born. 3. About Ankur textiles is a plant of well known industry (arvind mills limited) in Raipur area of Ahmedabad. Ankur textile has a turn over about rupees 327 crore per year. Ankur textiles has spinning, weaving, testing, processing and packaging department. Ankur textile is located at Raipur road which is at a distance of 6 kms from Ahmedabad railway station. The company is having about 55,000 sq.m. area and mainly produces voiles fabric and yarn 4. ARVIND GROUP OF COMPANIES: Arvind Intex Gomtipur, Ahmedabad Arvind Coatspin- Kolhapur, Maharastra Arvind mills- Naroda, Ahmedabad Arvind mills- Santej, Ahmedabad Arvind worldwide- Mauritius Arvind worldwide- USA Arvind clothing Limited- Gandhinagar Arvind Fashion Limited- Gujarat 5. SPINNING Spinning is the twisting together of fibers to form yarn. Spinning by hand was a slow and laborious process. The basic manufacturing process of spinning includes carding, combing, are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and finally yarn. 6. SPINNING UNIT PRE SPINNING Blowroom Carding Pre Drawing Lap Former Coomber Post Drawing Simplex (Speed Frame) RING SPINNING Ring Frame Parallel Winder Doubling 7. BLOW ROOM Blowroom is the first step of yarn production in the spinning mills. The bales are taken to the blowroom and prepared for the process. Basic operations in the blowroom are: 1. Opening. 2. Cleaning. 3. Mixing or blending. 4. Micro dust removal. 5. Uniform feed to the carding machine. 6. Recycling the waste. GBR-2 Machines are used 8. MIXING: Mixing is the process of adding different cotton or different materials(fibers) to reduce a representative of lot. Methods of mixing: Stack mixing. Bin mixing. Mixing by the blending hopper. By auto mixer. Polyester fibers are colored as blue 9. CARDING Carding continues the cleaning process removing fibers too short for yarns and separating and straightening the fibers so that they lay parallel to each other. These fibers are then spread into a thin, uniform web. The web moves into a funnel shaped device (trumpet) where it is gathered into a rope like mass and formed into the card sliver. 10. Objectives of Carding: To open the flocks into individual fibers. Cleaning or elimination of impurities. Reduction of neps. Elimination of dust. Elimination of short fibers. Fiber blending. Fiber orientation or alignment. Sliver formation. 11. DRAWING Drawing follows either combing or carding, depending on the quality of yarn desired. Several strands of sliver (typically eight to ten) from different carding machines are combined and conveyed to the drawing machine, where they are pulled together and drawn out into a new sliver no larger than one of the original single slivers. The loose, rope like strand of fibers resulting from this process is called drawn sliver. 12. OBJECTIVES OF DRAWING The purpose of drawing is to make yarn more uniform by combing and elongating multiple slivers, thus eliminating the randomly occurring defects. Quality of the draw frame sliver determines the yarn quality. Drawing is the final process of quality improvement in the spinning mill. Drawing apart of the fibers is affected by fibers being carried along with the roller surfaces. 13. LAP FORMATION AND COMBING: Combing is an optional process introduced into the spinning of finer and high-quality yarns from finer cotton. For coarser cotton fibers, the combing operation is usually omitted. This is the process of removal of a predetermined length of short fibers present in the fiber assembly, because the presence of short fibers reduces the yarn quality by increasing the number of thin and thick places, neps, hairiness, and also reduces the tenacity. The presence of short fibers and the inappropriate configuration of the fibers in the drawn sliver would not allow drafting and the ring frame operations to be effective. 14. OBJECTIVES OF LAP FORMATION AND COMBING: Yarn evenness Strength Cleanliness Smoothness Visual appearance TASK OF THE COMBER: 1. Elimination of short fibers 2. Elimination of remaining impurities 3. Elimination of neps 15. LAP FORMER:- Lap produced on lap former goes to comber machine count wise. Lap former 2 machines of Rieter manufacturer. 18 ends up doubling on both machine. COMBER MACHINES:- Total 11 combers all of LR manufacturer. Four combers are of 18 * 42 dimension. Seven combers are of 16 *42 dimension 16. ROVING The drawn fiber is taken to the roving frame, where it is further drawn. As the roving strand is ready to leave the roving frame, a slight twist is imparted to hold the fibers together. OBJECTIVES OF ROVING FRAME: Attenuation- drafting the sliver into roving. Twisting the drafted strand. Winding the twisted roving on a bobbin. Roving is fed to ring frame (z twist). Ring bobbin (output). Ring bobbin goes to winding section converted to cheese or cone form. Cone or Cheese form is fed to parallel winder. 2 cheese are fed they are kept parallel. 17. DOUBLING Parallel cheese fed. Doubling Bobbin. Steaming is done to stabilize the twist 18. WEAVING Weaving is the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called the warp and the filling or weft (older woof), are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. Cloth is woven on a loom, a device for holding the warp threads in place while the filling threads are woven through them. The manner in which the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is known as the weave Woven cloth can be plain (in one color or a simple pattern), or it can be woven in decorative or artistic designs, including tapestries. 19. Total looms 72 48 (180cm) speed 196rpm 24(150cm) speed 205rpm Production : 80 mts, 85mts and 90mts per machine per day 1 labour per 8 big machines 20. Operations involved in weaving: Shedding Picking Beating up (Battening) Taking up and letting off. 21. Shedding : Shedding is the raising of the warp yarns to form a shed through which the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. The shed is the vertical space between the raised and unraised warp yarns. In modern looms, simple and intricate shedding operations are performed automatically by the heddle or heald frame, also known as a harness. 22. Picking : the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the shed is created. The filling yarn is inserted through the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle. The filling yarn emerges through a hole in the shuttle as it moves across the loom. As the shuttle moves back and forth across the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling. 23. Beating up (Battening) the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, it also passes through openings in another frame called a reed. With each picking operation, the reed presses or battens each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed. The point where the fabric is formed is called the fell. 24. Taking up and letting off With each shedding, Picking, Battening operation, the new fabric formed is wound on the cloth beam which is called 'taking up'. At the same time, the warp yarns must be released from the warp beam which is called 'letting off'. There are different kinds of selvages depending upon the expected use of the fabric- Plain Selvages, Tape Selvages, Split Selvages, Fused Selvages, Leno Selvages and Tucked Selvages. 25. Winding There are 9 winding m/cs 3 m/c ( Murata make) 3 m/c Doubling. Autocomer (Schafhorst) (German Company) 238nm/c -4 {Electronics} With knotting Uster With Splicing 538 {Mechanical} Murata-3 x-5 Latest autocomber Knotting m/c(238)-only double yarn Autocomber-538 - with 10 spindle 1 knot. - with 10 spindle 2 knot. - splicer = 1/80 Ne,terry cotton 2/80 26. There are 3 Doubling machines: Oerlikon Schlafhorst Splicing WARPING MACHINES : Bhagwati-2 m/c (Electrical), (Hydraulic Break) Indiquip-4 m/c (Mechanical), (Clutch Break) 27. WINDING Yarn from the spinning frame is next wound onto large spools or packages in a process called winding. These spools or packages are now use in weaving, knitting and other operations Ring spinning produces yarn in a package form called cops. 28. YARN SINGEING OBJECTIVE: To remove protruding fiber from the yarn. To bring luster in the yarn. Gas(CNG) singeing machines are used IMPORTANCE OF SINGEING PROCESS This process is done to make cloth thin because yarn looks thick due to more protruding fiber . This process is done to remove protruding fiber and gives strength and luster to the cloth, it also helps in uniform penetration of dye during dyeing process. 29. No of machine : 3 No of spindle per machine : 120 Drum rpm : 750 Temperature :730.C Tension : 15-17 gms Suction motor : 3 Rocker shaft motor (stop motion) : 2 Main motor rpm : 1445 Volt : 8.5 amp Gas pressure : 17-30 P Air pressure : 300 SINGEING PRODUCTION = ( winding speed * time* efficiency) / ( 840 *2.2*100*count) =(820*22.5*60*0.80) / (840*2.2* 45) = 11.40 kg/spd/day 30. STEAMING (2ND STAGE) OBJECTIVE : To recover the winding from high twisted yarn. PROCESS : In this process the material which comes from the singeing department is put in one basket and these types of three baskets are used. Then the basket is put in the steaming machine and the door is closed. In this process 15% vacuum and 2 kg pressure is applied and this process takes time about 1.5 to 2 hours and the basket is taken out. Number of machines : 3 Feed material : singed yarn used. 31. WARPING Warping is the process to collect a pre-determined number of ends from cross wound package and from a sheet on the beam. The new yarns are knotted with the old ones to draw them through the guides easily. It is the process of winding the warp yarns on the large beam depending upon the length of warp yarn required. It is the process of winding the warp yarns on the weavers beam through relative rotational cycle. If the yarn breaks during the course of warping then the machine stops automatically and the indicator on the related guide glows. 32. Warp beam used in warping 33. FACTORS AFFECTING THE PRODUCTION: Time taken for creeling. Length of warp wound on the beam Number of supply package Quality of yarn Speed of machine Frequency of changes in quality and count of yarn. 34. DRAWING-IN OBJECTIVE: To drive the ends through eyes of healds and dents to feed with the help of reed hook. The warp threads are passed in pre- determined order through healds and feed of appropriate count and reed according to manufacturing particulars of cloth, generally one end is drawn through the eye of heald and two ends are drawn through the dent of reed. The drawing in the beam is mounted on the loom for weaving process. Equipment needed for mounting heald frames and the reed is called upright frame. 35. Total number of looms : 72 Loom size : 180cm = 48 looms Loom size : 150 cm = 24 looms Machine particulars: LOOM SIZE : 180 cm Rpm : 196 LOOM SIZE : 150 CM Rpm : 205 Average production per day of ANKUR TEXTILES 80 meter day per loom. 36. PRODUCTS OF ANKUR TEXTILES FAMOUS IN INDIA chakori (monopoli) Quality 80088 100% cotton blouse material Reed * pick = 72 * 72 Count = 2/94 singed yarn GREY WIDTH = 100 cm FINISHED WIDTH = 90 cm GREY WEIGHT = 86 87 gm TIP TOP 100% polyester blouse material Reed * pick= 80*80 Count = 2/81 PC * 2/81 PC Carbonizing is done to remove cotton to make it 100 % polyester ( passing the fabric through sulphuric acid). GREY WIDTH = 91 cm FINISHED WIDTH = 90 cm GREY WEIGHT = 115 gm / mtr. 37. DEFECTS DURING WEAVING Warp break. Warp slacks Weft breaks Weft slacks Causes of stoppages: Warp and weft brakes. Shuttle trap. Banging off. Pkg. changes. No shuttle transfer. Break after transfer. Damage mentioning. 38. PROCESSING GREY INSPECTION DEPARTMENT To remove projecting yarns and stains or weaving faults. In grey inspection department fabric are observed on light surface. By light, projecting yarns which are present on fabric in which both side are easily seen. In inspection of grey fabric projecting yarns are remove and cut from middle and selvedge of fabric. Weaving faults like reed marks, knots, slub, parallel and single yarn faults, sludge etc. are removed from the grey fabric. Unwashable stains are removed chemically. GREY FOLDING In grey folding, fabric is fold for farther process after grey inspection. In half rotation 1 mt. of fabric is fold. Then fabric is send to stitching, were according to requirement stitching is done. No. of inspection table = 8 No. of folding m/c = 2 39. DESIZING PROCESS Objective: The purpose of desizing is to remove size paste applied on the warp yarn before weaving process, this size paste remains on the fabric produced after weaving. Usually an emulsifying agent is added to sizing mixture to facilitate its removal from cloth. It is necessary to remove the size paste from cloth because hydrophobicity of this material causes problem during wet processing like less penetration of chemical and less absorption of chemical. PROCESS: In ANKUR TEXTILES enzymatic desizing is done for the fabrics. 40. SCOURING After desizing, the cloth still contains fats and waxes (both natural and added), due to its presence absorbency of the cloth is adversely affected. This leads to improper dyeing and finishing in the subsequent processes. These impurities are removed from the fabric in the scouring processes. The oils and fats are higher fatty acids of in organic compounds. They are hydrophobic substances and affect the absorbency of the cloth. The outer hydrophobic layer has to be removed to make the fabric absorbent. The process by which this water resistant layer is removed from the fabric is called Scouring. 41. MERCERIZATION Objective : To increase tensile strength of fabric. To increase dimensional stability. To increase luster. To improve dye uptake. To improve smoothness. 42. BLEACHING Objective Removal of colouring matter. Increases whiteness. Bleaching is a process to make the fabric or yarn look brighter and whiter. This is achieved by oxidizing or reducing the coloring matters in to colorless form. Mostly widely used textile bleaching method is Hydrogen Peroxide bleaching. This is carried out in an alkaline bath at about 80 to 85C at a pH of 11. 43. SOURING In this process neutralization of fabric is done by using dilute mineral acid after bleaching process and removes surface deposits from fabric, souring is carried out in dilute acid. This process is necessary after bleaching because by this process traces of oxidizing bleaching agent are also removed from the fabric. In this process concentration of acid and temperature should be controlled. CHEMICAL USED: 2 gm/ ltr HCl TEMPERATURE : room temperature MACHINE USED : washing machine TIME: 1 hour TEMPERATURE : 35- 40 .C 44. DYEING In ANKUR TEXTILES dyeing department uses generally Reactive dyes, vat, sulphur dyes for cotton and disperse dyes for polyester material. Reactive dyes and vat dyes are widely used for cotton materials dyes used in the industry are of following manufacturers : Reactive Dyes from M. ghmani Dyes Sulphur Dyes from Bhanu Dyes Vat Dyes from Atul Dyes Disperse Dyes from Colourtex Dyes. 45. CARBONIZATION: In order to obtain 100% polyester fabric this process is done. 100% polyester fabric cannot be get by weaving process so first polyester- cellulosic blend is made then by using carbonization process cellulosic portion from P-C blend is removed. This process is particularly dine for the blose material of TIP- TOP brand of ANKUR TEXTILES. 46. Packaging Packaging is an important unit in the Textile mill of Ankur Div. since it produces fabric both for Export and Local Market with maximum turnover in Export quality. Arvind ankur has two warehouses for packaging. The main warehouse is used for packing and storing of export quality fabrics which are exported to various foreign countries like Dubai, Switzerland, Mauritius etc. Packaging is carried out in Roll form and folded form. Proper care is taken for packing of Aroma finished fabrics which are cut into smaller units and packed in plastic bags. 47. Conclusion This textile internship for two weeks provided us a great opportunity to learn and experience all the processes involved in making a fabric from the fiber stage till the finished fabric in a textile industry. Also through this we had an opportunity to visit Ahmedabad which is regarded as the textile hub of India. We came to know about the culture and had an experience to interact with the people.