National Institute of Fashion TechnologyChennai

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

DIVISION ANKUR TEXTILES AHMEDABAD

Report by :ARPAN MAHATOB/AP/12/1643SARTHAK SAGARB/AP/12/1644 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTThe following report has been made under the guidance of our mentor Mr. AO Abdul Salam Sait, Department of Fashion Technology. We are highly grateful to him, for providing us with this extremely interesting project, which has enhanced our knowledge with respect to the subjects and also, for guiding us and providing help whenever needed. We are also thankful to Mr. Ashutosh tiwari, who was our mentor in industry for his support and guidelines. We would like to thank the officers and staffs of Ankur textiles who helped us directly or indirectly.

OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIP

To know about the various processes involved in making of fabric (Voile) and gain knowledge of Spinning, Processing, Finishing and Packaging. To gain firsthand knowledge about the process flow and working conditions of the Industry.

CONTENTS1ORGANIZATION PROFILE AND HISTORY4

2ABOUT ANKUR TEXTILES5-6

3ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY7

4SPINNNG8

5BLOW ROOM CARDING9-16

6DRAWING16-19

7LAP FORMATION AND COMBING19-21

8ROVING21-22

9WEAVING22-32

10STEAMING32-35

11WARPING35-38

12DRAWING-IN39

13KNOTTING

40

14LOOM SHED40-44

15PROCESSING44-46

16DESIZING PROCESS46-47

17SINGEING45

18SCOURING47-50

19BLEACHING50-52

20SOURING52

21DYEING53-54

ORGANIZATION PROFILE AND HISTORYARVIND LIMITED1930 was a year the world suffered traumatic depression, companies across the globe began closing. The three brothers Kastur Bhai, Narottam Bhai, and Chiman Bhai Lal Bhai decided to put up a mill to produce super fine fabric, next they looked around for state of the art machinery that could produce such high quality fabric. Their search ended in England. The best technology of that time was acquired at a most attractive price and a company called Arvind Limited was born. Arvind Limited with a share capital of rupees 25,25,000($ 55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high and super fine fabric. Arvind invested a very sophisticated technology, with 52,560 ring spindle, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms, it was one of the few company in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full fledged facilities for bleaching, mercerizing , dyeing and finishing. The sales in the year 1934, after three years of establishment was 45.75 lacks and profit was profit was 2.82 lacks steadily producing quality fabrics, year after year Arvind took its place amongst foremost textile units in the country.

ARVIND GROUP OF COMPANIES:

Arvind Intex Gomitpur, AhmedabadArvind Coatspin- Kolhapur, MaharastraArvind mills- Naroda, Ahmedabad Arvind mills- Santej, AhmedabadArvind worldwide- MauritiusArvind worldwide- USAArvind clothing Limited- Gandhinagar Arvind Fashion Limited- Gujarat

ABOUT ANKUR TEXTILES

Ankur textiles is a plant of well known industry (arvind mills limited) in Raipur area of Ahmedabad.Ankur textile has a turn over about rupees 327 crore per year.Ankur textiles has spinning, weaving, testing, processing and packaging department. The company produces cotton yarn for Indian and International market and recently commissioned a modernized spinning unit to produce ring spun yarn for the Indian market. The Ankur Textile Ltd. Was originally known as Laxmi Cotton Mills and was taken up by Lalbhai Group Ltd. In the year 1979 as a closed sick mills. A major rehabilitation program was drawn up to revive this closed sick mill. Managerial and technical talent from arvind is being appointed for making good growth of the company. Turnover of the Lalbhai group ia about 3991 crores. Ankur textile is located at Raipur road which is at a distance of 6 kms from Ahmedabad railway station.The company has a full-fledged in-house production and processing and research laboratory and department of spinning, weaving, processing and packing department. The company undertakes all the procedure and process on material from first place itself. The company is having about 55,000 sq.m. area for doing job at the place.The company mainly produces voiles fabric and yarn. Mainly company is producing cotton products and polyester products. It also produces fabrics with Aromatic finishes. Company is making products and controlling the quality of products under the observation of the manager and management of the Arvind Products Ltd.The company operates through its division of Arvind Products Ltd.

VISIONBe the foundation that integrates culture vision and values, creates an environment that facilitates the maximization of human potential.PHILOSOPHYWe believe in people and their unlimited potential.In content and focus in problem solving. In Teams for effective performance.In intellect and its power.DREAMOf excellence in all Endeavour. Of mutual benefit and prosper. Of making the world a better place to live in, we make things happen. ENDEAVOURTo select train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities. To nurture talent to build leadership for tomorrow and to reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual business contribution.

ORGANIZATIONAL HIERARCHY

OFFICERSOfficers

PresidentP D Chavda

CEO

Unit Head

DepartmentsSpinningWeavingProcessingPackagingHuman ResourceMarketing

WorkersGrade Criteria:E1Officer

E2Manager(head)

M1Manager

M2Sr. Manager

M3Chief Manager

BM(1-7)Business Manager

SPINNING

Spinning is the twisting together of fibers to form yarn. The process used for yarn formation is spinning. Spinning by hand was a slow and laborious process. Thus, many implements and methods were invented for making it faster and simple. The basic manufacturing process of spinning includes carding, combing, are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and finally yarn. Cleaning is required to remove the trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs and any remaining seeds. Carding is the initial straightening process which puts the fiber into a parallel lengthwise alignment. This makes the tangled mass of fiber ready to produce yarn. This form of the fiber is called 'Lap'. The lap is treated for removing the remaining trash, disentangling and molding it into a round rope like mass called 'Sliver'. The sliver is then straightened again which is called Combing. In it, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged in such a parallel manner that the short fibers are completely separated from the longer fibers. This process forms a 'comb sliver' made of the longest fibers.Drawing pulls the staple lengthwise over each other. As a result longer and thinner slivers are produced. 'Roving' is the final product of the several drawing-out operations. It is the preparatory stage for the final insertion of twist. Enough twist is given for holding the fibers together but it has no tensile strength till this process, it can break apart easily with a slight pull. The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes through several sets of rollers running at high speed and finally the 'Yarn' is produced of the sizes desired.

SPINNING UNIT(ANKUR TEXTILES)

BLOW ROOMBlowroom is the first step of yarn production in the spinning mills. The bales are taken to the blowroom and prepared for the process. Basic operations in the blowroom are:1. Opening.2. Cleaning.3. Mixing or blending. 4. Micro dust removal. 5. Uniform feed to the carding machine. 6. Recycling the waste.

In blowroom required cotton quantity is issued from bale godown and is brought in blow room mixing wise.

MIXING: Mixing is the process of adding different cotton or different materials(fibers) to reduce a representative of lot. In mixing process different types of cotton is mixed thoroughly according to a fixed proportion. Proportion is maintained according to the requirement .

Methods of mixing: Stack mixing. Bin mixing. Mixing by the blending hopper. By auto mixer.

NOTE: In ANKUR TEXTILE mixing is done by stack mixing for poly fiber and stack mixing and auto mixture both are used for cotton.Mixing used in blowroom are as below :-

MixingType of cottonQuantityMarking on lap

90s80% (dch-32 mp)20%(pimabAmerican cotton)8 bales15 balesBlue

70sMcu5 (Ganyur)6 balesRed

105(export)(100% pima b)2 balesGreen

Polyester(0.8 micro denier 40mm,Custer-SD round fiber of reliance industries ltd.3 balesGreen Tinting

Weight of Bales: 90s Cotton Dch-32 (170kg per bale). 70s Cotton-Mcu5 (170kg per bale). 105(export)-(pimab) (230kg per bale). Polyester-(0.8 denier polyester fiber) (400kg per bale).

Lap.wt.Gms/mtLength of lapMarkingHK of lap

90s mixing.(18.1-18.7 kg).375+/-300gms45 mBlue0.00144

70s mixing.(18.1-18.7 kg).375+/-300gms45 mRed0.00144

105s. mixing.(18.1-18.7 kg).375+/-300gms45 mGreen0.00144

Polyester.18 -16.8 kg+/-300gmsGreen Tint0.00147

NOTE: Rod wt. 1.3kg. Waste accepted =0.25% (polyester). In cotton waste is 3 - 3.5%.

Fig no. 1: Bales are kept for processing in blowroom.

Fig no. 2: GBR Machine.

Blow Room Machines Sequences for cotton:-

GBR1 GBR2

Axiflow Beater B MPN (MultiMixer) Bypass Bypass

Step cleaner Step cleaner

Condenser

Scutcher 1 Scutcher 2

Lap Lap

For Polyester:-

CARDING

Carding continues the cleaning process removing fibers too short for yarns and separating and straightening the fibers so that they lay parallel to each other. These fibers are then spread into a thin, uniform web. The web moves into a funnel shaped device (trumpet) where it is gathered into a rope like mass and formed into the card sliver.Depending on the quality of yarn being made, the sliver either goes to the drawing machine or the combing machine. Fine quality cottons require yarns to be combed in addition to carding. The card sliver goes through the breaker drawing step and then the combing operation.

Objectives of Carding: To open the flocks into individual fibers. Cleaning or elimination of impurities. Reduction of neps. Elimination of dust.Elimination of short fibers. Fiber blending. Fiber orientation or alignment. Sliver formation.

NOTE:Total 18 cards all of LR (Laxmi Rieter) (c {16}) make 2 are of LR (c 1/3) make.

Cards details according to the number of counts.

MixingNo. of CardsCanes usedMarking of lap

90s4White/Green plastic canes of 24 * 42Blue

70s4Red canes 24 * 42Red

105(export)2Red canes 24 * 42Green

Polyester7Red canes 24 * 42Green Tint.

Fig: # Carding Machine

DRAWING

Drawing follows either combing or carding, depending on the quality of yarn desired. Several strands of sliver (typically eight to ten) from different carding machines are combined and conveyed to the drawing machine, where they are pulled together and drawn out into a new sliver no larger than one of the original single slivers. The loose, rope like strand of fibers resulting from this process is called drawn sliver.Objectives of drawing: The purpose of drawing is to make yarn more uniform by combing and elongating multiple slivers, thus eliminating the randomly occurring defects. Quality of the draw frame sliver determines the yarn quality. Drawing is the final process of quality improvement in the spinning mill. Drawing apart of the fibers is affected by fibers being carried along with the roller surfaces.

Pre-Drawing and Post-DrawingDrawing no.ManufacturerMat.RunningProdn./Day

1RSB(Ricter)Terry cotton1700 kg

2RSB(Ricter)90s /Exp1100 kg

3PadmatexPolyester1500 kg

4PadmatexT/C 31600 kg

5LRD 02/ST/C 4/2/31200-1300kg

6LRD 02/ST/C 2/31400kg

7Padmatex90s/Exp/T/C/1/2/31500-1600kg

8Padmatex90s/70s/Exp/card1450-1500kg

Fig: 4- pre drawing

Fig: 5- Post drawing

LAP FORMATION AND COMBING:

Combing is an optional process introduced into the spinning of finer and high-quality yarns from finer cotton. For coarser cotton fibers, the combing operation is usually omitted. This is the process of removal of a predetermined length of short fibers present in the fiber assembly, because the presence of short fibers reduces the yarn quality by increasing the number of thin and thick places, neps, hairiness, and also reduces the tenacity. The presence of short fibers and the inappropriate configuration of the fibers in the drawn sliver would not allow drafting and the ring frame operations to be effective. Thus, combing is an important process next to carding in the spinning of fine yarns.Combing is used for high quality yarns for great evenness, smoothness, fineness and strength. This operation combines several card slivers which are drawn into the comber and, once again, spread into a web. The fibers continue to be cleaned and straightened as the web is formed. Short fibers and all residual non-lint materials are removed. This combed sliver is used to make high quality yarns.

OBJECTIVES OF LAP FORMATION AND COMBING:Yarn evenness Strength Cleanliness Smoothness Visual appearanceTASK OF THE COMBER:1. Elimination of short fibers2. Elimination of remaining impurities3. Elimination of nepsLAP FORMER:-

Lap produced on lap former goes to comber machine count wise. Lap former 2 machines of Rieter manufacturer. 18 ends up doubling on both machine.

COMBER MACHINES:- Total 11 combers all of LR manufacturer. Four combers are of 18 * 42 dimension. Seven combers are of 16 *42 dimension.Count wise combers distribution:- CountNo. Of Combers RunningLap MarkerComber Lap

90s1,4,7,9,10Blue line5

70s3,8,11Red line3

Fig :# Combing

ROVING

The drawn fiber is taken to the roving frame, where it is further drawn. As the roving strand is ready to leave the roving frame, a slight twist is imparted to hold the fibers together.OBJECTIVES OF ROVING FRAME: Attenuation- drafting the sliver into roving. Twisting the drafted strand. Winding the twisted roving on a bobbin.

Roving is fed to ring frame (z twist). Ring bobbin (output). Ring bobbin goes to winding section converted to cheese or cone form. Cone or Cheese form is fed to parallel winder. 2 cheese are fed they are kept parallel.

DOUBLING

Parallel cheese fed. Doubling Bobbin. Steaming is done to stabilize the twist.NOTE:In voiles (both ring frame and doubling is given Z twist).

WEAVINGWeaving is the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads, called the warp and the filling or weft (older woof), are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. The warp threads run lengthways of the piece of cloth, and the weft runs across from side to side.Cloth is woven on a loom, a device for holding the warp threads in place while the filling threads are woven through them. Weft is an old English word meaning "that which is woven".The manner in which the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is known as the weave. The three basic weaves are plain weave, satin weave, and twill, and the majority of woven products are created with one of these weaves.Woven cloth can be plain (in one color or a simple pattern), or it can be woven in decorative or artistic designs, including tapestries. Fabric in which the warp and/or weft is tie-dyed before weaving is called ikat.

Operations are involved in weaving:1) Shedding

2) Picking

3) Beating up (Battening)

4) Taking up and letting off.

Shedding :Each alternate warp yarn is raised to insert the filling yarn into the warp to form a shed. Shedding is the raising of thewarp yarns to form ashed through which the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. The shed is the vertical space between the raised and unraised warp yarns. In modern looms, simple and intricate shedding operations are performed automatically by the heddle or heald frame, also known as a harness. The weave pattern determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends on the complexity of the weave.

Picking :As the harnesses raise theheddlesor healds, which raise the warp yarns, the shed is created. The filling yarn is inserted through the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow passage through the shed. The filling yarn emerges through a hole in the shuttle as it moves across the loom. A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to the other is known as a pick. As the shuttle moves back and forth across the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling.Beating up (Battening)As the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, it also passes through openings in another frame called areed. With each picking operation, the reed presses or battens each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed. The point where the fabric is formed is called the fell. Taking up and letting offWith each shedding, Picking, Battening operation, the new fabric formed is wound on the cloth beam which is called 'taking up'. At the same time, the warp yarns must be released from the warp beam which is called 'letting off'. As the shuttle moves back and forth across the width of the shed, a self edge is woven which is called selvage or selvedge. The selvage prevents the fabric from muddling. It is usually more compact and strong than the rest of the fabric. There are different kinds of selvages depending upon the expected use of the fabric- Plain Selvages, Tape Selvages, Split Selvages, Fused Selvages, Leno Selvages and Tucked Selvages. NOTE : In ANKUR TEXTILES mainly plain, satin and twill weave is made, with different types of selvedge designs.

WEAVING DEPARTMENT (ANKUR TEXTILE):

Two section :a) Preparatory.b) Loom shed.

WindingThere are 9 winding m/csa) 3 m/c ( Murata make)b) 3 m/c Doubling.

Autocomer (Schafhorst) (German Company) 238nm/c -4 {Electronics} With knotting Uster With Splicing 538 {Mechanical} Murata-3 x-5 Latest autocomber Knotting m/c(238)-only double yarn Autocomber-538 - with 10 spindle 1 knot. - with 10 spindle 2 knot. - splicer = 1/80 Ne,terry cotton 2/80There are 3 Doubling machines: Oerlikon Schlafhorst Splicing

WARPING MACHINES : Bhagwati-2 m/c (Electrical), (Hydraulic Break) Indiquip-4 m/c (Mechanical), (Clutch Break)

PROCESS SEQUENCE

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR WEAVING

WINDING Yarn from the spinning frame is next wound onto large spools or packages in a process called winding. These spools or packages are now use in weaving, knitting and other operations. In some cases, packages of yarns may be dyed prior to knitting or weaving. This allows colored patterns to be produced in the fabric.

Ring spinning produces yarn in a package form called cops. Since cops from ring frames are not suitable for further processing, the winding process serves to achieve additional objectives made necessary by the requirements of the subsequent processing stages.

Following are the tasks of winding process:1. Extraction of all disturbing yarn faults such as the short, long thick ,long thin, spinners doubles, etc2. Manufacture of cones having good drawing - off properties and with as long a length of yarn as possible3. paraffin waxing of the yarn during the winding process4. introduction into the yarn of a minimum number of knots5. achievement of a high machine efficiency i.e. high production level.

The winding process therefore has the basic function of obtaining a larger package from several small ring bobbins. This conversion process provides one with the possibility of cutting out unwanted and problematic objectionable faults. The process of removing such objectionable faults is called as yarn clearing. No of machine in winding department : 9 Autoconer 238 machine (SCHLAFHORST) :4 Autoconer 138 machine (PADMATEX) : 2 Match corner machine : 3PRODUCTION OF AUTOCORNER = (winding speed/ y.p.m. *time*efficiency) / (840*2.2* count)=6.42 kg/day/machineMACHINE PARTS (AUTOCONER 238 ) Bobbin peg Balloon braker Precleaner Tension device Splicing head Yarn clearer (luster) Yarn holder Wax device Yarn trap DrumMACHINE PARTICULS : Model : sclafhorest Mfg year : 25-1-1996 No of spindle : each side 60 Winding speed : 900 rpm Running count : 95 & 100 Humidication maintain : 60to 65 % Efficiency :90%

MACHINE PARTS (AUTOCONER 138) Bobbin peg Balloon breaker Precleaner Lower cutter Gate feeler Tension shoe Upper cutter Splicing head Wax device Yarn clearer Lap guard DrumPIRN WINDING MACHINEObjective : To prepare a pirn of required dimension suitable for shuttle. To prepare a pirn contain continuous longer length of yarn. To prepare pirn with fault less yarn.Machine made: LAXMI-SCHWEITER No. of machines :4 Manufacturing year :1992 Winding speed :9000rpm One side spindle : 9+9+18 Total spindles :18+18=36 Bobbin diameter : 26mm Main drives:900rpm Tension:6-7 grams Gross wt. of bobbin: 0.066gms Empty bobbin wt:0.036gms Net wt:0.03gms

Length of yarn in pirn: =net wt. * count * 2.2 hanks =0.22 * 42.5 * 1693 =1583 meters

STEAMING (1ST STAGE)OBJECTIVE:To recover the winding from high twisted yarn.PROCESS:In this process first the material which comes from doubling frame is put in one basket and these types of three baskets are used. Then the basket is put in the steaming machine and the door is closed. In this process 15% vacuum and 2 kg pressure is applied and this process takes time about 1.5 to 2 hours and the basket is taken out.Number of machines : 3Feed material : doubling frame material used.

YARN SINGEINGOBJECTIVE: To remove protruding fiber from the yarn. To bring luster in the yarn.IMPORTANCE OF SINGEING PROCESSThis process is done to make cloth thin because yarn looks thick due to more protruding fiber . This process is done to remove protruding fiber and gives strength and luster to the cloth, it also helps in uniform penetration of dye during dyeing process. No of machine : 3 No of spindle per machine : 120 Drum rpm : 750 Temperature :730.C Tension : 15-17 gms Suction motor : 3 Rocker shaft motor (stop motion) : 2 Main motor rpm : 1445 Volt : 8.5 amp Gas pressure : 17-30 P Air pressure : 300SINGEING PRODUCTION= ( winding speed * time* efficiency) / ( 840 *2.2*100*count)=(820*22.5*60*0.80) / (840*2.2* 45)= 11.40 kg/spd/day

STEAMING (2ND STAGE)OBJECTIVE :To recover the winding from high twisted yarn.PROCESS :In this process the material which comes from the singeing department is put in one basket and these types of three baskets are used. Then the basket is put in the steaming machine and the door is closed. In this process 15% vacuum and 2 kg pressure is applied and this process takes time about 1.5 to 2 hours and the basket is taken out.Number of machines : 3Feed material : singed yarn used.

WARPING Warping is the process to collect a pre-determined number of ends from cross wound package and from a sheet on the beam. It is followed by winding, in this process 400 to 600 parallel ends are taken in a sheet form and is wounded on a beam. The new yarns are knotted with the old ones to draw them through the guides easily.

Drawing all the yarns through the guides in the creel is called creel dressing. It is the process of determining the length of one section by passing the warp yarn through another movable reed.

After drawing the yarns parameters required are feed on the machine like warping speed, section length, number of ends etc. It is the process of winding the warp yarns on the large beam depending upon the length of warp yarn required.

Automatic knotter is applied for knotting the warp yarns of large beam to the already present warp yarns on the weavers beam.

It is the process of winding the warp yarns on the weavers beam through relative rotational cycle. If the yarn breaks during the course of warping then the machine stops automatically and the indicator on the related guide glows.There are two types of warping processes:

S. No.Parameters

1.Yarn Count

2.F to F distance

3.Pitch

4.Actual Pitch

5.Number of ends (total)

6.Number of ends (F)

7.Number of ends (M)

8.Number of ends (L)

9.Section Width (F)

10.Section Width (M)

11.Section Width (L)

12.Max. Warp Length

13.Warping Length

14.First Lease

15.Last Lease

16.Warping Speed

17.Piece Length

18.Total no. of sections

Number of machines : 4Warping type : ( sectional warping)INDEQUIP1 : creel capacity = 512 ends.INDEQUIP2 : creel capacity = 500 ends.BHAGWATI 1 : creel capacity = 480 ends.BHAGWATI 2 : creel capacity = 612 ends.STOP MOTION IN MACHINE: Electric stop motion. Break stop motion.

FACTORS AFFECTING THE PRODUCTION: Time taken for creeling. Length of warp wound on the beam Number of supply package Quality of yarn Speed of machine Frequency of changes in quality and count of yarn. Machine stoppages due to spinning and winding faultsPRODUCTION IN WARPING:Weight of yarn = total weight of beam weight of beam = 260-80 = 180 kgs

DRAWING-INOBJECTIVE: To drive the ends through eyes of healds and dents to feed with the help of reed hook. The warp threads are passed in pre- determined order through healds and feed of appropriate count and reed according to manufacturing particulars of cloth, generally one end is drawn through the eye of heald and two ends are drawn through the dent of reed. The drawing in the beam is mounted on the loom for weaving process. Equipment needed for mounting heald frames and the reed is called upright frame.MANUAL DRAWING-IN This process is done by drawer.MECHANICAL DRAWING-IN It is done by machines.NOTE : In ANKUR TEXTILES, manual drawing-in process is used. TYPES OF HEALDS USED IN MILL :1. COTTON HEALDS2. FLAT STEEL WIRE HEALDKNOTTING

For using new beam without removing end from old beam. Beam ends and drawn ends are knotted together for making warp sheet.

Knots: 400 knots/min.

NOTE: Weaves are also decided according to the latest trends and marketing study.

NOTE : Weaving is done by power looms (shuttle looms) in ANKUT TEXTILES and there are two types of looms based on design.

LOOM SHEDObjective: To produce the defect free fabric. To remove warp break/slacks. To stop the damage mantling. To remove weft breaks/slacks.

Looms Motion: Main and auxiliary motion. Seeding [positive]. Picking [negative]. Beating-up [positive]. Let-off motion [semi positive]. Take up motion. Center weft fork stop motion. Warp stop motion. Loose read warp protector motion. Single pick motion. Reversing motion. Auto pirn changing device. Electrical feeler for pirn changing.Total number of looms : 72Loom size : 180cm = 48 loomsLoom size : 150 cm = 24 loomsMachine particulars:LOOM SIZE : 180 cmRpm : 196LOOM SIZE : 150 CM Rpm : 205 Average production per day of ANKUT TEXTILES 80 meter day per loom.NOTE: PPI depends on the order received. Export quality count= 105, 2/105PPI- 64, EPI 64GREY WIDTH = 160 cm or 95 cm PRODUCTS OF ANKUR TEXTILES FAMOUS IN INDIA1. Trade name- chakori (monopoli) Quality 80088 100% cotton blouse material Reed * pick = 72 * 72 Count = 2/94 singed yarn GREY WIDTH = 100 cm FINISHED WIDTH = 90 cm GREY WEIGHT = 86 87 gm2. TIP TOP 100% polyester blouse material Reed * pick= 80*80 Count = 2/81 PC * 2/81 PC Carbonizing is done to remove cotton to make it 100 % polyester ( passing the fabric through sulphuric acid). GREY WIDTH = 91 cm FINISHED WIDTH = 90 cm GREY WEIGHT = 115 gm / mtr.3. Mulberry4. Padmini5. Dolphin6. RosemerryDEFECTS DURING WEAVING Warp break. Warp slacks Weft breaks Weft slacks

Causes of stoppages: Warp and weft brakes. Shuttle trap. Banging off. Pkg. changes. No shuttle transfer. Break after transfer. Damage mentioning.

Production Calculation:Prod. Of loom/day/machine = Rpm * 60 *24. 39.37*picks/inchesProduction depends on the value of Rpm of loom and PPI.NOTE : average production of ANKUR TEXTILES is 80 mtrs per day .

PROCESSING

GREY INSPECTION DEPARTMENTTo remove projecting yarns and stains or weaving faults. In grey inspection department fabric are observed on light surface. By light, projecting yarns which are present on fabric in which both side are easily seen. In inspection of grey fabric projecting yarns are remove and cut from middle and selvedge of fabric. Weaving faults like reed marks, knots, slub, parallel and single yarn faults, sludge etc. Are removed from the grey fabric. Unwashable stains are removed chemically.

GREY FOLDING In grey folding, fabric is fold for farther process after grey inspection. In half rotation 1 mt. of fabric is fold. Then fabric is send to stitching, were according to requirement stitching is done. No. of inspection table = 8 No. of folding m/c = 2

SINGEINGSingeing is done to remove the protruding fibers from the surface of the fabric, if protruding fibers are not removed uniform penetration of dye cannot be done, and during printing sharp print design will not have the same desired effect. It is a necessary process for dyeing and printing process. Singeing process is given to the cotton fabric generally in grey stage but in case of polyester- cotton blend fabric this operation is given after dyeing of polyester portion. If it is done in grey stage the protruding fibers gets melted and forms bead on surface of fabric and this creates problem in dyeing ( shade variation can happen ). Singing machines in Ankur Textile: Machine Name - ASTHOFF SENGE Manufactured From - GERMANY Burner Distance - 10mm Gas and air ratio - 1:4

Parameters for singeing process are as follows:-PARAMETERFOR P- C BLENDFOR COTTON

1. machine speed10 m/min80 m/min

2. flame intensity06 mili10 mili

3. temperature100.C 120.C

4. time of contact of fabric to flame0.55 sec0.75 sec

PARTS OF SINGEING MACHINE: 1. Batch of fabric2. Pre cleaning section3. Exhaust4. Brush roller5. Guide roller6. Singeing section7. Flame

DESIZING PROCESSObjective:The purpose of desizing is to remove size paste applied on the warp yarn before weaving process, this size paste remains on the fabric produced after weaving. Usually an emulsifying agent is added to sizing mixture to facilitate its removal from cloth. It is necessary to remove the size paste from cloth because hydrophobicity of this material causes problem during wet processing like less penetration of chemical and less absorption of chemical.PROCESS:In ANKUR TEXTILES enzymatic desizing is done for the fabrics.

SCOURING

After desizing, the cloth still contains fats and waxes (both natural and added), due to its presence absorbency of the cloth is adversely affected. This leads to improper dyeing and finishing in the subsequent processes. These impurities are removed from the fabric in the scouring processes.The oils and fats are higher fatty acids of in organic compounds. They are hydrophobic substances and affect the absorbency of the cloth. The outer hydrophobic layer has to be removed to make the fabric absorbent.The process by which this water resistant layer is removed from the fabric is called Scouring.

Note: Kiers are used for scouring process. It is under high pressure, saponification reaction takes place in which impurities become soluble and then it is removed by washing.KIERS: Open Kiers. Closed Kiers.Chemical used for Scouring: Caustic soda, sodium sulphate , soda ash.Number of kiers in ANKUR TEXTILE: 5 Kiers.

Following steps are kept in mind during Scouring process:1) Feeding of fabric should be uniform into the kier in rope form.2) Kier should not be filled beyond 80% to 85% of its rated capacity as overfilling may cause undue hydraulic pressure.3) Temperature and pressure should be according to the standards.4) The kier should be at least half filled; otherwise the cloth may turn around due to circulating liquor and get entangled.

Kier Parts:a) Vesselb) Lidc) Pressure gauged) Safety valvese) Lid clampf) Heaterg) Steam lineh) Steam valvei) Pumpj) Clean water inputk) Drain valvel) Valvem) Caustic tankn) Drain valveMERCERIZATIONObjective :

1. To increase tensile strength of fabric.2. To increase dimensional stability.3. To increase luster.4. To improve dye uptake.5. To improve smoothness.

Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabrics and threads that gives fabric a lustrous appearance. The process is applied to cotton materials.The treatment causes the fibres to swell, which in Mercer's version of the process shrunks the overall fabric size and makes it stronger and easier to dye. By holding the cotton during treatment to prevent it from shrinking, fibre gains a lustrous appearance. Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre. Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre. This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance, and gives fibers a softer feel.[3]The modern production method for mercerised cotton, also known as "pearl" or "pearle" cotton, gives cotton thread a sodium hydroxide bath that is then neutralized with an acid bath. This treatment increases luster, strength, affinity to dye, resistance to mildew, but also increases affinity to lint. Cotton with long staple fibre lengths responds best to mercerisation. Mercerised thread is commonly used to produce fine crochet.Mercerisers are either chain or chainless and consist of three sections, impregnation, stabilisation and washing off.Most mercerisation units have their own caustic recovery systems to help minimise waste. Principal pollutants: Alkaline effluent from washing and rinsing operations. Effluent from mercerising operations consists mainly of mildy caustic rinse water. Typically the pH of this effluent is about 10 to 12. Water usage for this process is about 20 liters per kg of cloth.Effective Mercerization requires attention to variables such as caustic strength, dwell time (feedrate), temperature, and neutralization. The feed rate of the fabric may also be limited by its trength and weight and is usually run at 80 to 120 yards (73 to110 m) per minute.MACHINE USED FOR MERCERIZATION IN INDUSTRY: Chainless mercerizing machine = 2 machinesMACHINE DEATAILS:Manufactured by M-TEX machines pvt ltd,

Washer tank capacity700 ltr

Nip pressure2 kg / cm 2

Number of washer tank4

Fabric in NaoH tank23 metres

Air gun roll pressure4 Kg /cm2

Fabric in this machine is washed by counter current system Machine parts : a. Tensionerb. Guidec. Fixed rubber rolld. Floating rollere. Caustic soda tankf. Air gun rollg. Transfer rollh. Sqeezing rolleri. Wash liquor outletj. Stabilizerk. Washerl. Scrolling devicem. Spray pipen. Dancing rollero. Platterp. Mercerized fabricq. Washer piper. Guide rollerBLEACHINGObjective

1. Removal of colouring matter.2. Increases whiteness.Bleaching means whitening or oxidizing a substance. Bleach is a chemical that can produce these effects. Common chemical bleaches include sodium hypochlorite, or "chlorine bleach," and "oxygen bleach," which contains hydrogen peroxide. "Bleaching powder" is calcium hypochlorite. Bleaching is a process to make the fabric or yarn look brighter and whiter. This is achieved by oxidizing or reducing the coloring matters in to colorless form. Mostly widely used textile bleaching method is Hydrogen Peroxide bleaching. This is carried out in an alkaline bath at about 80 to 85C at a pH of 11.Bleaching powder may be used for bleaching cotton and linen. The fabric is soaked in a weak aqueous suspension of bleaching powder and exposed to the air when hypochlorous acid is liberated and causes bleaching by oxidation. The process is completed after repeated boiling, washing and exposure to sunlight for up till 6 months.Bleaching of textiles can be classified in to oxidative bleaching and reductive bleaching.Oxidative bleachingGenerally oxidative bleaching is carried out usingsodium hypochlorite,sodium chloriteorhydrogen peroxide. Natural fibre likecotton ,jute,wool,bambooare all generally bleached with oxidative methods.Reductive bleachingReductive method of bleaching is done withSodium hydrosulphite, a powerful reducing agent. Fibres likePolyamide, Polyacrylics and Polyacetates can be bleached using reductive bleaching technology. In ANKUR TEXTILES full bleaching is done to give maximum whiteness to fabric. In bleaching process, Sodium hypo chlorite ( NaOCl) is used then fabric is treated with Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2). First process is known as chemicking ( chemic). Manual bleaching process is practiced in the industry and the fabric is present in rope form. Process is not continuous.CHEMICKING PROCESS:In this process sodium hypochlorite is used.Procedure : Hydrolysis NaOCl + H2O NaOH + HOCl Bleaching agent release HOCl HCl + (O) Maximum HOCl development NaOCl + HCl NaCl +HOCl Formation of free chlorine HOCl + HCl H2O +Cl2

SOURINGIn this process neutralization of fabric is done by using dilute mineral acid after bleaching process and removes surface deposits from fabric, souring is carried out in dilute acid. This process is necessary after bleaching because by this process traces of oxidizing bleaching agent are also removed from the fabric. In this process concentration of acid and temperature should be controlled.CHEMICAL USED: 2 gm/ ltr HClTEMPERATURE : room temperatureMACHINE USED : washing machineTIME: 1 hourTEMPERATURE : 35- 40 .C

ROPE WASHER :a. Waterb. Water tankc. Eye potd. Fabric in rope form e. Rubber rollerf. Winch g. Fabric controlling plateh. Chemical inleti. Water inletj. Drain valve

DYEING In ANKUR TEXTILES dyeing department uses generally Reactive dyes, vat, sulphur dyes for cotton and disperse dyes for polyester material. Reactive dyes and vat dyes are widely used for cotton materials dyes used in the industry are of following manufacturers :Reactive Dyes from M. ghmani DyesSulphur Dyes from Bhanu DyesVat Dyes from Atul DyesDisperse Dyes from Colourtex Dyes.CARBONIZATION:In order to obtain 100% polyester fabric this process is done, 100% polyester fabric cannot be get by weaving process so first polyester- cellulosic blend is made then by using carbonization process cellulosic portion from P-C blend is removed. This process is particularly dine for the blose material of TIP- TOP brand of ANKUR TEXTILES.Machine: Jigger Machine

Chemical Used: 70% H2S04 soda ash (20 g/l)Time: 4 Hours

Process:Step 1st:- 1000 meters of fabric is taken for carbonization process on jigger m/c.Step 2nd:- 4 turns are given in conc. H2SO4 in 1 hour.Step 3rd:-Fabric is washed for 1 hour (4 turns) and given soda ash wash.Step 4th:-Fabric is again washed for 1 hour (4 turns).

Optical Brightening process (OBA):

Object:This process is given to make fabric pure white.Optical brightening agents are physical bleaching agentsOBA make fabric more reflective by absorbing ultra violet rays of light and transfer them in blue violet range and fabric looks pure white, it is done by two methods1. Exhaustion method2. Padding methodIn ANKUR TEXTILES fabric stenter machine is used for P-C blend.

PackagingPackaging is an important unit in the Textile mill of Ankur Div. since it produces fabric both for Export and Local Market with maximum turnover in Export quality. Arvind ankur has two warehouses for packaging. One main inside the factory and another outside. The outside one hire labours from various contractors while the main warehouse has its own labours working for Arvind. The main warehouse is used for packing and storing of export quality fabrics which are exported to various foreign countries like Dubai, Switzerland, Mauritius etc. Packaging is carried out in Roll form and folded form. Proper care is taken for packing of Aroma finished fabrics which are cut into smaller units and packed in plastic bags. The special aroma finished fabrics retain its smell till 7-8 wash with this type of packing.

Conclusion This textile internship for two weeks provided us a great opportunity to learn and experience all the processes involved in making a fabric from the fiber stage till the finished fabric in a textile industry. Also through this we had an opportunity to visit Ahmedabad regarded as the textile hub of India. We came to know about the culture and had an experience to interact with the people. This experience will help us in understanding the basics of a Garment Industry and will be helpful in pursuing our career in this field. 38