Pork and Apple Pie with Cheddar-Sage Crust (page...

PorkandApplePiewithCheddar-SageCrust(page129)

TheAppleLover’sCookbook

AMYTRAVERSO

photographsbySquireFox

W.W.Norton&Company

NewYork•London

DEDICATION

•ForScott,Max,andEva•

Ifyouaregoingtofollowlinks,pleasebookmarkyourpagebeforelinking.

CONTENTS

CoverTitlePageDedicationRecipeIndex

•chapterone•INTRODUCTION

WhyanAppleBook?ABriefHistoryoftheApple

TheWildWorldofAppleGeneticsHowtoUseThisBook

•chaptertwo•APPLEVARIETIES:APRIMER

HowtoMatchtheAppletotheRecipeAppleVarieties:TheCheatSheet

59GreatAppleVarieties:AnIn-DepthGuideHowtoTellIfanAppleIsFreshDoApplesExpressTerroir?

•chapterthree•COOKINGTIPSANDPANTRYNOTES

TipsandTechniquesIngredientNotesToolsoftheTrade

•chapterfour•SOUPSANDSTARTERS

TheFruitoftheFuture:InsidetheCornellAppleBreedingProgram

•chapterfive•VEGETABLEENTREES,SIDES,ANDSALADS

TheGiftofGraft:AVisittoRedAppleFarminPhillipston,Massachusetts

•chaptersix•POULTRY,MEAT,ANDFISHENTREES

FruitfromtheDesert:NewMexico’sHiddenAppleCountry

•chapterseven•PANCAKES,DONUTS,BISCUITS,ANDBREADS

OnHeirloomsandCider:AVisittoPovertyLaneOrchardsinLebanon,NewHampshire

•chaptereight•PIES,CRISPS,COBBLERS,BUCKLES,ANDBETTIES

TheBusinessofApples:ATourofWashington’sWenatcheeValley,“AppleCapitaloftheWorld”TheBestApplesforPie

•chapternine•DUMPLINGS,BAKES,CAKES,ANDPUDDINGS

RediscoveringForgottenFruits:ThePreservationOrchardsofPalermo,Maine

•chapterten•CONDIMENTSANDCOCKTAILS

•chaptereleven•BEYONDBAKING:APPLEFESTIVALS,PRODUCTS,ANDPAIRINGS

ASelectListofAmericanAppleFestivalsWheretoBuyFreshApplesbyMail

FavoriteAppleProducts,fromCiderDonutstoVinegarCider:TwentyFavoriteLabels,withTastingNotes

PairingCiderandCheese

Bibliography

AcknowledgmentsIndex

ANoteAbouttheAuthorCopyright

RECIPEINDEX

SOUPSANDSTARTERSBacon-WrappedDateswithCurriedAppleHash

ChickenLiverPâtéwithAppleApple,Cheddar,andCaramelizedOnionPastryPuffs

AppleChipswithSpicedYogurtDipSweetPotato,Apple,andGingerSoup

ChestnutSoupwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote

VEGETABLEENTREES,SIDES,ANDSALADSEndiveSaladwithApples,Walnuts,andGorgonzolaAutumn“Coleslaw”withDates,Apples,andPecansApple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad

ChickenWaldorfSaladSpinach,Apple,PickledOnion,andBaconSaladwithCiderVinaigrette

Cider-GlazedRootVegetablesSquashandAppleGratinParsnip-ApplePuree

AppleRisotto(RisottoalleMelle)AppleandMustardGrilledCheeseSandwiches

WelshRarebitwithApplesPumpkinandAppleCustard

AcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandAppleSquashStuffedwithApples,Pancetta,andWalnuts

SweetPotato–AppleLatkes

POULTRY,MEAT,ANDFISHENTREESAppleCider–BrinedTurkeywithApplejack-SageGravy

BraisedBrisketwithApplesandHardCider

PorkandApplePiewithCheddar-SageCrustTennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple

SausageandRedOnionSandwichSausagewithBraisedCabbageandApplesDuckPanzanellawithApplesandThyme

Cider-BraisedPorkwithCalvadosandPrunesCider-BrinedPorkChopswithMustardPanSauce

AppleandChestnut–StuffedPorkLoinwithCiderSaucePan-SearedSalmonwithCider-GlazedOnions

PANCAKES,DONUTS,BISCUITS,ANDBREADSVermontAppleCiderDonuts

BakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbToppingDutchBaby

Oatmeal-ApplePancakesBakedAppleOatmealPuddingApple-StuffedBiscuitBunsAppleCranberryScones

Apple-StuddedBrownButterStreuselCoffeeCakeApple-ApricotKuchen

ApplePumpkinWalnutMuffinsMorningGloryMuffins

Sausage,Apple,andCheddarStrataIrishSodaBreadwithApplesandCurrants

HolidayApple-RaisinChallah

PIES,CRISPS,COBBLERS,BUCKLES,ANDBETTIES

Grandma’sAppleCrispOatmeal-ToppedAppleCrisp

SwedishApplePieDouble-CrustApplePie

BlueRibbonDeep-DishApplePieApplePiewithCrumbTopping

SkilletApplePie

MarlboroughPieTarteTatin

GravensteinApple-RaspberryTartFree-FormApple-Pear-CranberryTart

RusticAppleBrownBettyApple-PearCobblerwithLemon-CornmealBiscuits

ButtermilkAppleBuckleWilliamsburgWrapplesAppleEmpanadasApplePandowdy

DUMPLINGS,BAKES,CAKES,ANDPUDDINGSCider-BakedApples

BakedAppleswithFrangipaneFillingAppleDumplingswithCider-RumSauce

AppleBreadPuddingwithSaltedCaramelSauceCinnamonRicePuddingwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote

SpicedApple-CranberryCompoteAppleClafoutisAppleBrownies

SimpleAppleNutCakeAppleTeaCakewithLemonGlaze

CrêpesFilledwithCaramelizedApplesandServedwithMapleCrèmeFraîcheCaramelizedApples

KentuckyAppleStackCake—ModernVersionKentuckyAppleStackCake—TraditionalVersion

AppleGingerbreadUpside-DownCakeApplesauce-PistachioBundtCakewithCiderGlaze

LowfatGingerbreadApplesauceCakeSpicedAppleCupcakeswithCinnamonCreamCheeseFrostingSaltedCaramelAppleswithCinnamonGrahamCrackerCrumbs

Apple-GingersnapIceCreamGreenAppleSauvignonBlancSorbet

CONDIMENTSANDCOCKTAILS

ClassicApplesauceOrange-ScentedSpicedApplesauce

QuickBread-and-ButterApplePicklesApple,Date,andAlmondCharoset

Apple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsaOvernightAppleButterMulledAppleCider

JackRoseComing-in-from-the-ColdCocktail

CHAPTERONE

INTRODUCTION

CalvilleBlancd’Hiver

WhyanAppleBook?

“So...youmustlikeapples.”Tell a stranger at a cocktail party that you’re a foodwriterworking on an

apple cookbook, and that’s the response you’ll likely get.And, of course, onewouldhopethattheanswerisyes,Ido,verymuch.Infact,themoreI’veeatenthem,cookedwith them, learned theirhistory,andstudied their intricacies, themorepassionateI’vebecome.

Sometimes the conversation ends there—not everyone finds fruit sofascinating.Butifitcontinues,thetopicusuallyturnstofavoritevarieties—mine(PinkPearlandCalvilleBlancd’Hiver)andtheirs(Honeycrispispopular,asisGala, with a few still holding fast to Red Delicious)—which almost alwayssparksmemoriesofafavoritechildhoodrecipe.“Oh,”theysay,“Mymomusedtomakethebestapplecrisp...”

Ienjoy theseconversationsbecause it’snice toknow that I’mnotalone inmy enthusiasm. In the years I’ve spentworking on this book, I’ve discoveredthatapplesarenotonlytasty,butinfinitelyvariedandintrinsicallyconnectedtohumanhistory.They’re theworld’s thirdmostwidelygrownfruit (bananasare

first,grapessecond).Inthiscountry, they’regrowncommerciallyinthirty-fivestates, and home orchards can be found from Alaska to Florida, where thevarietyTropicSweetwasdevelopedatthestateuniversity.Appleshavebeenawindow through whichmy knowledge of food has deepened. I hope that themoretimeyouspendwiththisbook,themorepassionateyou’llbecomeaswell.

Iwasn’talwayssuchanappleenthusiast.IgrewupinConnecticut,enjoyingthefruitinthewayofmostchildren.IsnackedonaMcIntoshorRedDeliciouswhenthereweren’tanyOreosonoffer.Ilookedforwardtofall,whenmymothermade my grandmother’s apple crisp (page 185). We made an annual apple-pickingtrektonearbyGlastonbury,whereahandfuloffamily-runorchardsstillcontinuestoresistsuburbandevelopment.

Andsomewhere in thatveryconventional introduction, apples took root inmyimagination.Isawthelushbeautyofanorchardatfullfruit,andunderstoodwhy so much early literature, from the Bible to Greek and Scandinavianmythology, equates the orchard with Paradise itself. Tome, an apple farm inSeptember or October represents everything that is inspiring in nature—itsabundanceandsweetness—andstrikesmeasaspiritualsettingasmuchasanychurchortemple.Settingasidethecenturiesofdecidedlyhumaneffortthatgaverise to these highly selected fruits—and forgetting that orchards don’t exactlyplantthemselves—walkingamongthesetreesgivesthemostpleasingvisionofnature, in which sweet fruit is given in abundance as if by some universalbenevolence.

AfterIlefthomeandbeganexploringfoodandcookingasaserioushobby,and later as a food editor and recipe developer, I experimented with applevarieties outside my narrow circle of McIntosh, Macoun, Granny Smith, andGolden Delicious, and found breeds that seemed almost exotic—the sweetyellowWinterBanana,thetartandrough-skinnedRoxburyRusset.Herewasafruitthatthrivedinmynorthernhomestate—whereremnantsofformerorchardscan be found in most cities and suburban towns. In fact, I often snack fromseveralscragglysurvivorsinmyurbanBrookline,Massachusetts,neighborhood.

Apples are so adaptable and grow in somany places that they provide aneasyway to eat locally and in season, and to support nearby farms instead ofrelyingonlyonfruitshippedinfromfaraway.Allworthygoals,withmoreandmorepopularappeal—justlookatthefarmers’marketssproutingupalloverthecountry.Forthoseofuswholiveinregionswithshortgrowingseasons,locallygrownapplesaren’tjustdelicious,they’repoliticallycorrect!

Evenfarfromanyorchard,theaverageshopperhasaccesstoanincredible

diversity of apple varieties—something rare on a mass scale. Consider thetypical supermarket’s produce section: you can buy plain “raspberries,”“nectarines,”or“lemons.”Forall thetonsofstrawberriesgrownyear-roundinCalifornia and Florida, the fruits are still known only by their generic names.Head over to the apple section, however, and you can choose from GrannySmith,PinkLady,Fuji,andGala,amongothers.Onlyappleshaveearnedsuchspecificinterest.

Why? Because in addition to being highly available, apples are delicious,with thesortof tart-sweetbalance thatdelights thepalate.Theykeepwell—inmyrefrigerator’sproducedrawer,I’vesuccessfullystoredNewtownPippinandNorthern Spywell into spring (for best results, put them in a paper bag or aplasticbag intowhichyou’vepuncheda fewholes).And they’reeasy tocookwith,shininginpreparationssweetandsavory,freshandbaked.

My own love affair with this fruit hit new highs (and perhaps wentoverboard)when,onOctober2,2004,Imarriedmyhusband,Scott,intheappleorchard of Arrows Restaurant in Ogunquit,Maine. As our guests arrived, weservedthemcidermadefromthefruitof the treesaroundus.At thereception,wesetsmallweddingcakesoneachtableandscatteredtinyLadyApplesaroundthemasanediblecenterpiece.Mybridesmaidsworeshadesofredandrose,liketheblushonthefruit,andScottandhisgroomsmensportedapple-greenties.MyfriendGilevendesignedanappletreelogofortheinvitationsandprograms.Theweddingfavors?Caramelapples.Really,itwasaharvestfestivaldisguisedasawedding.Andnaturally,whenourson,Max,begantalking,hecalledeveryfruitan“apple.”

Mypassionforappleshasshapedmyworklifeaswell.Asafoodwriterandeditor, I’veseenhowpopularapplesarewithreaders.Everyfall,atmagazinesfromCaliforniatoNewEngland,myjobhasbeentodevelopgreatapplerecipes.Allof these experienceshavebroughtme to this cookbook. I love this fruit. Ilovehowitrepresentshomeandautumnandbigslabsofpie,andIlovecookingwithit.

Chancesare,appleshaveaplaceinyourownfoodmemories.Ican’tthinkofanotherfruitthatcomesasclosetotheheartoftheAmericantable.Wesaveanapplefortheteacher.Weeatanappleaday.Weare“asAmericanasapplepie”(an ironic statement, if you think about it, given that apple pie really is veryBritish),andwecallourgreatestcitytheBigApple.Somecombinationofthosephrases and a thousand servings of apple cider donuts and mulled cider,combinedwithmyNewEngland rootsoryourVirginiaorSonomaorYakima

Valleychildhood,andallthoseroundsoftheJohnnyAppleseedsong(“Oh, theLordisgoodtome...”),alladduptosuchstrongassociationswithapplesandAmericathatIhalfexpectedtohearthatthePilgrimsfoundrowsofBaldwinandMcIntoshwhentheyfirststeppedashoreatPlymouth.

Inreality,thesweetappleweassociatewithhomeandcountryhadtotravelthroughtimeandacrosstheworldbeforeitcouldbecomeahomegrownfavorite.Let’sgobacktothebeginningandfindouthowwegothere...

ABriefHistoryoftheApple

America’s first apple trees were planted from seeds,cuttings,and small plants brought by the Jamestown settlers to the NewWorld in the early 1600s. The Pilgrims planted their orchards soon after. Butgoingbackmuchfarther,before recordedhumanhistory,we find theoriginofthe modern domesticated apple, Malus domestica, deep in the southeasterncorner of Kazakhstan, along the Tien Shan mountain range, which bordersKazakhstan,China,andKyrgystan.TheTienShan’sforestsarestill filledwithancientgrovesofwildappleandotherfruittrees.Theygrowashighasfiftyfeet,withfruitranginginsizefromtinywalnut-shapedfruitletstoenormousglobes,andineverycolorfromyellowtodeepviolet.

Itwashereandinanothernearbymountainrange,theDzungarianrange,thattheancestorsoftoday’ssweettableapplesfirstappearedabout4.5millionyearsago—theresultofanevolutionarydancebetweenthenativewildappletrees—botanical name Malus sieversii—and the mountain birds and animals whofavoredthefleshiest,mosthoneyedfruitsonoffer,andthendistributedtheseedsfar andwide. Itwas natural selection at its finest, allowing the fruitswith thehighestsugarlevelstocometodominatetheirhabitat.

Ofcourse,theapplegenus,Malus,isalargeone,andtherewereother,lesspalatable types of apples growing in the world at this time.More than thirtyothernativespeciescanbefoundineverycorneroftheglobe:thesmall,bittercrabapplesofEurope,Chinesecrabs,nativeAmericancrabs.Theseappleshaveall been known and used by humans throughout history, but it is the large,honeyedMalussieversiithatmostresembletoday’sorchardapples.Sohowdid

theybecometoday’sMcIntoshandGala?Howdidtheygetfromtheretohere?ThesimplestansweristhattheTienShanforestshappenedtolieinthepath

ofancienttraderoutes.Travelersencounteredthefruitontheirjourneyand,likethe bears and birds before them, carried apples out beyond their home turf.Imagine howwonderful an applemight have seemed to those early travelers,whowerehard-wiredlikeallhumanstocravesweetthings,andlivedinaworldbeforecanesugarorhigh-fructosecornsyrup.Herewasasweetfoodthatwasportableandcouldbestoredforrelativelylongperiods.

Apples are also extremely adaptive plants. Different varieties easilyhybridizewitheachother,andsweetapplescanalsoexchangeDNAwithcrabapplespecies.AsapplesfromtheEastmovedwestandmingledwiththenativecrabs,theiroffspringcouldfoldingenesfromeachnewhabitat,allowingthemto cope with cold weather, heat, drought—any number of threats. Thisadaptabilityallowedapplestothriveinanincrediblerangeofenvironments—awide area of the planet’s temperate zoneswith the right balance ofwarm andcoldweather.

It’s no surprise, then, that as humans began mastering the basics ofagriculture, they began cultivating orchards. By 2000 BC, the ancient Hittites,wholivedinthelandsthatnowcompriseTurkey,weregrowingapples.Andbyabout500BC,appleshadfoundaplaceofhonorinPersiancultureandcuisine.

The apples themselves were improving. By 300 BC, Greek farmers werepracticingthetechniqueofgrafting(seepage90),branches(scions)ontoheartytrunks(rootstock).Nowtheycouldselectafavoriteappleandcloneitdirectly,ratherthanrelyingonthemorerandomprocessofplantingatreefromseedandwaitingafewyearstoseewhatkindoffruitcameup.

Soon,sweetappleswerespreadingallover the landswenowcallsouthernEurope,andthenfarthernorthastheRomanEmpiregrew.Theywereprizedbywealthy landowners and featured in the cuisineof the time.TheywerewovenintosomeofthemostfamousGreekandRomanmyths—evenplayingaroleinthestartoftheTrojanWar.Inthatstory,Eris,theGreekgoddessofdiscord,wasdeniedaninvitationtoaweddingonMountOlympusandretaliatedbylobbingagolden apple inscribedwith thewords “To the fairest” into themiddle of theparty. This caused a ruckus among the proud and beautiful goddesses Hera,Athena,andAphrodite.ParisofTroysteppedinasmediatorandAphroditewonthecontestbybribinghimwith thehandofHelenofSparta.And therestwasmythichistory.

Theassociationofappleswithromance,beauty,temptation,immortality,and

sensuality is a theme in cultures all over the globe. In Norse, Icelandic,Babylonian, Celtic, and Romanmyths, we see gods eating apples to preservetheir immortality, and suitors using apples to achieve a conquest, womenconceiving with the help of magical apples, and heroes falling from gracebecausetheycouldn’tresistthetemptationofaperfectfruit.

WhichbringsustoAdamandEve.IntheoriginalHebrewtextofGenesis,the specific fruit that led to man’s downfall isn’t actually named. Greek andLatintranslationsusedthewordmelonormalum,respectively,whichcouldrefertoeither“fruit”ingeneralor“apples”specifically.Consideringthegeographyoftheregionwherethestoryisset,afig,apricot,orpomegranatewouldseemthemostlikelyculprit.Butovertime,theapplewaschosen,perhapsbecauseitwasa well-known fruit of the northern monks who later translated the Bible intoLatin.Perhaps itwas the time-honoredpracticeof interweavingancientmythswith“new”religionstocreateastorythatthelocalscouldaccept.Ormaybeitwastheperfectpentagramshapeformedbyappleseedswhenslicedhorizontally(slicetheapplefromstemtoflowerend,andtheshaperesemblesawomb).Inanycase,theapplewasimplicatedandhasremainedthesymbolfortemptationeversince.In1470,whenFlemishartistHugovanderGoespaintedhisfamousFallofMan,inwhichAdamandEveconsortwiththedevilunderanappletree,the popular association of the apple with the original Tree of the Fruit ofKnowledgewasfixedinoil.

Despitethisstainonitsreputation,theapple’sfortunesimprovedinnorthernEurope,whereitthrivedinitscoolerclimate.AndastheRenaissanceusheredina period of scientific discovery, the field of botany emerged. That effort tosystematizeandcategorizethenaturalworldspurredfurtherattemptstoidentifyexceptional apple varieties and propagate them. During this time, FrenchvarietiessuchasthePommed’Api, theReinette,and,myfavorite, theCalvilleBlanc d’Hiver, became popular—and are still in demand today. Likewise, inEngland,withtheRennet,thePippin,thePearmain,andtheCostard.TheBritishPuritans of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries held fast to the virtues ofthriftandself-sufficiency,soorchard-keepingbecameacommonpractice.AndwhentheyleftEnglandforAmerica,theytookappleswiththem.

In Jamestown, in 1629, Captain John Smith wrote ofpeaches,apples, apricots, and figs that “prosper[ed] exceedingly” in the

coastalclimate.Aroundthesametime,thefirstnewAmericanapplevarietywasgiven the name Blaxton’s Yellow Sweeting. It came from a Boston orchardaround1625, aproductof theBeaconHill estateofWilliamBlaxton, the firstBritishsettlerinBoston.Hewaschaplaintothe1623Gorgesexpedition,whichprecededthePuritanstothatparticularspotbyseveralyears.Andashewasnota Puritan, he soon suffered repeated skirmishes with his newly arrivedfundamentalist neighbors before relocating to more tolerant Rhode Island.Today,atthecornerofBeaconandSprucestreets,youcanfindaplaquemarkingBlaxton’soldhomestead.

Notlongafterhissuccess,someone—it’snotclearwho—discoveredasweetrussetedgreenapplegrowinginafieldinRoxbury,southofBoston,andlikeditwell enough to propagate it.This became theRoxburyRusset apple,which isstillinactiveproductiontoday.

For early colonists, apples weren’t just a sweet table fruit. Theywere thesourceofcidervinegar,whichwasusedinpreserving.Theyprovidedhardapplecider to drink, and from cider came distilled ciderjack, which was used as aspirit, a preservative, and an anesthetic.By1775, 10percent of farms inNewEngland boasted a cider mill. Soon there were orchards lining the EasternSeaboard, as far south as northern Georgia. And as apples began to growabundantly,theybecameastapleofAmericancooking.

WithAmerican independence in 1776, thewestwardmigration began, andapples traveled rightalongwith theearly settlers.Homesteading laws requiredthattheyplantfiftyappleorpeartreesinordertotaketitletotheland.Itwasagoodway toensure thatpeoplestayedput longenough tosee those treesbearfruit.

And so, in the early1800s, ayoungmissionarynamed JohnChapman leftMassachusetts and headed west by canoe into the nascent territories ofPennsylvania, Ohio, West Virginia, Illinois, and Indiana to preach the GoodWord and spread the gospel of apples. He planted trees everywhere he went,eventuallyearningthenicknameJohnnyAppleseed.

In the popular depiction of Appleseed, familiar to most schoolchildren orfans of the 1948 Disney short Johnny Appleseed (watch it on YouTube—it’sterrific),he’spresentedasourcountry’scrazygreat-great-great-uncle:alovableeccentricwhospenthishappiestchildhooddaysinhisfather’sorchardlearninghowtocultivatethefruit.Whenhehitthetrail,hetraveledbarefootandcladinacoffeesack,fearingthatshoeswoulddullhissensitivitytothenatureallaroundhim. He was a vegetarian proto-Transcendentalist and Swedenborgian

missionary, who, in the tradition of his church, believed that nature was amanifestationofGodhimself.Therefore,timespentcommuningwithnaturewasinessenceaformofworship.

ButChapmanwasn’tonetopasshisdaysmeditatingunderaBaldwintree.He had a plan: to travel a bit ahead of the settlers and clear plots of land forplantingorchards.He’dbuild fencesaround them, thenpersuadeaneighbor totendtothelandinexchangeforacutofhissales.Heknewthatoncehistreesmaturedandthehordesarrived, they’dneedthosetreesfortheirownplots.Ofcourse, he often sold them on credit and was never repaid—he seemedmoreinterestedintheplantingthaninactuallymakingaprofit.Butbyclaiminglandinthisway,Chapmanhadsuchvastholdingsbythetimehedied,thathewas,atleastonpaper,averywealthyman.

Interestingly,Chapmangenerallyhelda firmanti-grafting line, consideringsuchhumaninterferenceanaffronttoGod’snaturalorder.Thoughgraftinghadbeen practiced since the country’s founding, the thousands ofAmerican acresChapmancoveredwithappleorchardsweregrownfromseedsthathecollectedfromcidermillsalonghisroute.Heknewthatmostoftheapplesthey’dproducewouldprovewhollyunappetizingaseaters.Buttheywouldmakeadecentcider,whichwas, after all, themost widely consumed beverage of that period. Thesettlers who planted their three or five or twenty acres of apples wereguaranteed,intime,amplesourcesofmildlyboozyrefreshmentand,theyhoped,a few seedlings thatwould turn up pie-worthy fruit.And they sometimes did.From the hundreds of thousands of seedlings planted during the nineteenthcentury, many thousand edible hybrids emerged: the Jonathan, the GrimesGolden,theKingDavid,theMaidenBlush,theBluePearmain,theBenDavis,to name just a handful. Other varieties from that time were produced byindustrious farmers who had the skill to cross hybrids under controlledconditions. But random chance accounted for most of the breeds, the best ofwhichweregiventhepoeticnamesthatindicatejusthowprizedtheywere.

InterestinapplesransohighduringthenineteenthcenturythattheerahadmanyofthetraitsoftheGoldRush.Discoveringaparticularlyappealingapplevarietycouldbring sudden riches toanenterprising farmerable tomarketanddistribute the scion, and people scoured rural orchards in search of the nextBaldwinorNewtownPippin.During thisperiod,Thoreauwrote, “Everywild-apple shrub excites our expectation thus, somewhat as everywild child. It is,perhaps,aprinceindisguise.Whatalessontoman!”

Allthisplantinggavetheappleatremendousopportunitytoexpressitselfin

all its genetic diversity.According to the nurseryman and apple historianTimHensley in the book The Best Apples to Buy and Grow, the United StatesDepartment ofAgriculture produced a catalog in 1905of all the known applevarietiesgrowndomesticallyduringthepreviouscentury.Theirtotal:14,000.It’san incredible number, especially when you remember that there were nodomesticated apples being grown on our soil in 1607, when the Jamestownsettlersarrived.

Over the course of the nineteenth century, large-scale apple productionexpandedfromNewEngland,NewYork,andOhiotoWashingtonandOregon.The first appleswere planted in that region in themid-1820s,when a Britishofficer for theHudsonBayCompanynamedAemiliusSimpsonbrought appleseedstoFortVancouverinWashington.WhencoveredwagonstraveledovertheOregon Trail westward in the mid-1800s, they carried apple trees and scionwood for grafting as part of their cargo. With ample irrigation from westernrivers,thedry,sunnyclimateofinlandCaliforniaandcentralandeasternOregonandWashingtonprovedexcellentforgrowingvaststoresofapples.

Butinablowtoapplediversity,thecidereracametoanendinthiscountryin the latter half of the nineteenth century, thanks to the double blow of theTemperanceMovementwith itswholesale rejectionofciderandotheralcohol,andthearrivalofGermanimmigrantswhobroughtwiththemimprovedmethodsformakingbeersandales.Nolongerreliantonapplestoproducetheirdrinkofchoice, Americans who did consume alcohol were less eager to maintainorchards.Today,theword“cider”hascometodescribenonalcoholicapplejuice,while “hard” cider has become a specialty beveragemade by a small (thoughgrowing) number of cideries, mostly in the Northeast, upper Midwest, andNorthwest.Meanwhile, as the apple-growing industry grew and centralized, itbegantofocusitseffortsonasmallernumberofsweet,productive,transportableapplevarietiesandmanyhomelierorlesshardytypeswereforgotten.

Today,Washingtonisbyfar the topapple-growingstate,accountingfor58percentofthecountry’sharvest(seepage182).Buttheappleindustryisaglobalone,withgrowersandbotanists—mostnotablythoseintheUnitedStates,Japan,Australia,andNewZealand—continuing tocreatenewblockbusterbreeds likethe Jazz and Pink Lady, mostly by crossing choice varieties to produce newhybrids. Attempts to improve apples through genetic engineering—by, say,splicinggenesfromafungus-resistantcrabappleintoadomesticatedfruit—arestill in the relativelyearlystages (seepage24).Chanceseedlingsarealsostilldiscovered on occasion—one example: the Ambrosia from British Columbia

(seepage31)—butintheglobalappleeconomy,verylittleislefttochance.Intheearly1990s,ChinaovertooktheUnitedStatesinappleproduction,and

itnowgrowsabout35percentoftheworld’scrop(mostofthefruitthatenterstheUnitedStatesdoessointheformofapplejuiceconcentrate).Thousandsofyears after the first sweet apples made their way along ancient eastern traderoutes to satisfy theworld’s hunger, that same hunger has spawned a thrivingnewindustrybackattheirsource.

TwoBlackOxfordapples,onelarge,onesmall,fromJohnBunker’sorchardinPalermo,Maine.Thisfirm-sweetvarietyisaMainenative,anditssingularityinspiredBunkertodevotehiscareertopreservingheirloomslikethis.FormoreonBunkerandhiswork,seepage224.

THEWILDWORLDOFAPPLEGENETICS

Before I began researching this book, I thought that ifyouwantedto grow aGranny Smith tree, you could simply take a seedfromasupermarketappleandplantit.Easy!

Only . . . not so easy. Apple trees don’t produce little seedling clones.Instead, like humans, they produce offspring whose DNA is a uniquecombinationofparentalgenes.Thismeans that just asmy son isnot anexactreplicaofmeorhis father,anyseedImightplant fromtheGrannySmithwillproduceaseedlingquitedistinctfromtheparenttree.Actually,thatseedlingwillbe evenmore distinct than a human child because apple genetics are mind-bogglingly complex—so much so that, according to the science writer SueHubbell in her bookShrinking theCat:GeneticEngineeringBeforeWeKnewAboutGenes, early botanists who studied apple reproduction “suggested thattheydidnotobeytherulesofMendeliangenetics.”

It’seasytounderstandwhytheywerebaffled.Considerthematterofpollen.With few exceptions, apple trees can’t fertilize themselves, so they must befertilizedbyanother tree.Ina typicalorchardsettingduringtheappleblossomseason (spring in theNorthernHemisphere, fall in the SouthernHemisphere),the pollenmight travel by honeybee or on thewind, but regardless of how itarrives,itwilllandonaflower,attachtothestickystigmas,andtraveldownthefiveantenna-likestyles to reach the fiveovules,eachofwhichwilleventuallyproduceseeds.

Now, in an orchard filled with many varieties of apple, there’s a lot ofdifferent pollen floating around. It’s possible that on any particular appleblossom, each stigma could receive pollen from a different source. Therefore,each seed in the very same apple could have a different “father,” and thus, auniquegeneticmakeup.

“There’satremendousamountofgeneticrecombinationinapples,”saysDr.Susan Brown, Professor of Horticultural Sciences at Cornell’s College ofAgricultureandLifeScience.Recombinationistheprocessbywhichstrandsof

DNAcanbreakapart,mixandminglewithotherstrands,andcombinetoformnewchromosomes.“Therearealsohiddenandrecessivegenesinapples,whichmayormaynotexpressthemselvesindifferentconditions,”Brownsays.“Therearejustmanymorevariablesthantherearewithhumans.”

Think of an apple tree in a large orchard, loaded with fruit, each globepossessedofmultiple seeds.Between the recessivegenesand the recombininggenesandthemultiplepollensources,everysingleappleseedonthattree—andin creation—could represent its own individual hybrid. A whole new kind ofapple.See?Mind-boggling.

Thisisalltothedismayofapplefarmersthroughthecenturies.Appleshaveaverylongevolutionaryhistory,andtheycarrywithintheirgeneticcodemoreinstructions for survival traits (cold tolerance, disease resistance, etc.) than forsweetnessandsatinyredskin.Aswithslotmachines,mostpullsofthegeneticleverresultinwhatis,fromourperspective,adud:bitter,mealyflesh;leatheryskin,tinysize.It’sextremelyrareforanappletreegrownfromseedtoproducefruit with a narrow band of human-approved traits. So in order to keeppropagating the luscious, sweet Spitzenburg and Gala, humans have had tomastertheartofgrafting—fusingbranchesfrom,say,aMcIntoshtreeontothetrunkofanothertree,calledtherootstock,whichischosenforitshardinessanddiseaseresistance(formoreongrafting,seepage90).Botanistsalsocontinuetodevelop new breeds by making controlled crosses—hand-transferring pollenfromaprizedapplevarietylikeaCox’sOrangePippintotheblossomsof,say,aGoldenDelicioustreetotrytoproduceoffspringthatbearthebestqualitiesofbothparents.

Recently, apples have entered the world of genetic engineering, in whichdesirablegenescanbeidentified,retrieved,andintroducedtoanexistingappleplant tomake itmoreproductive,hardier,ormoredisease-resistant.And thosegenes can come from some unbelievable sources. For example, in one studydescribedinShrinkingtheCat,scientistisolatedagenethatproducesabacteria-fighting protein in the silkmothBombyxmori and then added the gene to theDNAofapplerootstocks.Theyfoundthattheapplesthatwerelatergraftedontothosestockswereresistanttoaverydestructivebacterialdiseasecalledfireblight—onethatcanwipeoutentireorchardsunlesscontrolledwithpesticides.

It remains to be seen whether or not consumers will accept geneticallymodifiedapples.ButasthepopularityofnewhybridslikeJazzandSweeTangoprove, there’s a thriving market for varieties produced by old-fashionedcontrolled breeding.And there are still somany potential crosses tomake, so

manynewvarietiesonthehorizon.We’veonlyjustbeguntoexploretheapple.

HowtoUseThisBook

In these pages, I’ll take you to some of my favoriteorchards and country fairs and cideries—all the places where peoplecelebrate thisbeautiful, ancient fruit.Thenweheadback to thekitchenarmedwithdozensof recipes, fromapple-sweetpotatosoup, toappleskilletpie, toasimple,deliciousapplenutcake.Ipromiseyou’lleatwell.

The recipes come from my imagination, from ideas inspired by chefs,friends, and family, and from my growing collection of old Americancookbooks. Some are adaptations of recipes I developed in years past, somewere handed down on worn slips of paper from my great-aunt Madeline, atalented cook and young widowwho lived with my grandparents inWindsorLocks, Connecticut, and was the designated baker for our weekly Sundaydinners.Theycovergroundbothsweetandsavory,designedtocomplement,say,thevegetalnotesofatartgreenPippinapple(seeApple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsaonpage274) or themilderGoldenDelicious or Jazz varieties thatholdupwellinpies(pages189–202).Applesaresodiverse,withsuchdifferentflavorprofiles,itwaseasytodeveloprecipesthatspannedbreakfasttodinner.

Toensureyoursuccesswiththeserecipes,I’vecomeupwithasimplewaytoguaranteethatyou’realwaysusingthebestappleforanyparticulardish.Basedonmy own cooking and research, I’ve grouped 59 popular varieties into fourcategories based on how they perform in cooking:Firm-Tart apples such asGrannySmith,whichworkinrichdessertsthatneedsomeacidity;Firm-Sweet,suchasGoldenDelicious,bestformoredelicatecakesandsavorybakeddishes;Tender-TartsuchasMcIntosh,bestforsaucesandforeatingfresh;andTender-Sweet, suchasGala,whicharegenerallyeatenfreshorused inquick-cookingdishes suchaspancakes.Now, insteadof looking for a singlevariety foryourpie,youcanchoosefrommanycompatibleonesinthesamecategory.Ihopethiswill encourageyou to trynewvarietiesandexperiment inyourcooking.Eachvarietyofapplebringssomethingnewanddelicioustothemix:abitmorespicehere,extratartnessthere.

Recipes begin on page 78 with some soups and starters, such as Bacon-WrappedDateswithCurriedAppleHashandSweetPotato,Apple,andGingerSoup(page85).But first, let’s take an in-depth look at somewonderful applevarietiesandlearnabouthowtousethem.

CHAPTERTWO

APPLEVARIETIES:APRIMER

Braeburn

HowtoMatchtheAppletotheRecipe

Apple varieties are as individual as people, with theirownquirkyflavorsandtexturesandstrengthsandbehavioralissues.Someperformbestindesserts,othersinsalads.Somearejustmeanttobeeatenoutofhand.Youcan’ttellbysimplylookingatthem,ofcourse,andtheydon’tcomewithalabel.

I’vetakensomeoftheguessworkoutofthisprocessbyorganizingfifty-ninepopular andworthy varieties into four simple categories,which correspond totheirbestuse in thekitchen. Idid thisbasedonmyowncookingandresearchand advice from the growers and experts I’vemet over the years.Apples canvary tremendously depending on where they’re grown, and under whatconditions. Too much rain one year can dilute flavor, extra sun can enhancesweetness.Asapplesage,theytendtobreakdownmorewhencooked.However,if you buy fresh apples from a reputable grower or grocer, you’ll have goodresults.

Mostof therecipes in thisbookwillguideyou toacategory, rather thanaspecificvariety.Thecategoriesare:

Firm-Tart,suchasGrannySmith,RhodeIslandGreening,NorthernSpy,orRoxburyRusset.Theseapples,whichholdtheirshapewhencooked,arebestinsweet baked desserts like pies or cakes—anything that benefits from a bit ofacidityandbrightflavor.

Firm-Sweet, such as Golden Delicious, Braeburn, Ginger Gold, or PinkLady.Theseworkbestinsweetandsavorybakeddishesthatneedafirmapplewithmoresweetnessthansourness.

Tender-Tart,suchasMcIntosh,Cortland,andMacoun.Theseapplesbreakdown easily during cooking, which makes them best for cooked soups andsauces.Ifyoulikeatartapple,you’llalsoenjoytheseeatenoutofhand.

Tender-Sweet,suchasGalaandFuji.Iusesomeoftheseinsalads,dessertsaucesandtheoccasionalquick-cookeddish,butmostlyenjoythemrightoutofhand.

Therearejustacoupleofexceptionstomycategorysystem:theGravensteinApple-RaspberryTartonpage205,and theApple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa on page 274—in those cases, the dishes really do work best with thespecifiedfruits.I’malsospecificaboutwhichapplesarebestforbakingwhole(Jazz,PinkLady,recipespages228and229);thesevarietiesholdtheirrosyhue,thoughotherfirm-sweetapplesarefine.

Inallothercases,youcanrefertotheCheatSheetonpage30whenplanningyour shopping list. Apples do vary quite a bit, even within categories, andchoosing a Bramley’s Seedling over aNorthern Spywill give you a differentflavor. But you can’t go wrong with any choice—you might just have morelemonynoteswithone,orspicynoteswithanother.Sometartappleshaveahintofhoneyon the finishwhileothers aremore strictly tart.But theseguidelineswillstillkeepyouintheproperrangeandassurethetextureyouwant.

Onelastnote:You’llnoticethatRedDeliciousdoesn’tappearinanyofthefollowingcategories.Overthepast120years,asgrowersbredthefruitmoreforuniformgoodlooksthanflavor,theapplelostthesucculencethatfirstmeritedits

name.Ihonestlycan’tthinkofasinglegooduseforit.Butifitweretofitinacategory,itwouldbeTender-Sweet(or,inmyopinion,Mush-Sweet).

AppleVarieties:TheCheatSheet

FIRM-TARTBESTFORRICHERBAKEDDESSERTS

ArkansasBlackAshmead’sKernelBramley’sSeedling

CalvilleBlancd’HiverEsopusSpitzenburg

Goldrush*GrannySmithHiddenRose

IdaredNewtownPippinNorthernSpyPinkPearl

RhodeIslandGreeningRibstonPippin

RomeRoxburyRussetSierraBeauty

StaymanWinesap*Suncrisp*

FIRM-SWEETBESTFORLIGHTERBAKEDDESSERTS

BaldwinBlackOxfordBluePearmainBraeburnCameo

GingerGold*GoldenDelicious*GoldenRussetGravenstein

GrimesGoldenHoneycrisp

JazzJonagoldKeepsakeMelroseMutsu

OpalescentPiñata*

PinkLadyReinedesReinette

SpigoldSweeTango

WinterBananaZabergauReinette

TENDER-TARTBESTFORFRESHPREPARATIONS,

SAUCES,ANDEATINGOUTOFHAND

BlackTwigCortland*

Empire*Jonathan

LadyAppleMacounMcIntosh

WestfieldSeek-No-Further

TENDER-SWEETALSOGOODFORFRESHPREPARATIONS,SAUCES,

ANDEATINGOUTOFHAND

AmbrosiaCox’sOrangePippin

FameuseFuji*Gala*

Hudson’sGoldenGemPommeGrisSpencer

*Applevarietythatdoesn’tbrownquicklywhensliced;agoodchoiceforsalads.

59GreatAppleVarieties:AnIn-DepthGuide

AMBROSIA

CATEGORY:Tender-sweet.

BESTUSE:Thisappleislovelyfresh,insalads,orservedwithcheese.Thefleshkeepsitsshapereasonablywell,butitdoesn’thaveenoughaciditytoworkwellinpiesortarts.

ORIGIN:In1989,WilfriedandSallyMennelldiscovered thefirstAmbrosia treegrowing in their Jonagold orchard in the Similkameen Valley of BritishColumbia.Theexactparentage isn’t certain,butAmbrosia likelycame fromacrossbetweenJonagoldandGoldenDelicious—anotherapplethatwasgrowingnearby.

AVAILABILITY: The Ambrosia is now grown in New Zealand, Chile, NorthAmerica, andEurope,where it isparticularlypopular inPiedmont, Italy.Withsuchwidedistribution,ithasbecomeacommonsupermarketvariety.

SEASON:IntheNorthernHemisphere,theAmbrosiaripensinlateSeptemberandearlyOctober and can be kept in a home refrigerator for up to threemonths.SouthernHemispherefruitstartsappearinginstoresinearlyspring.

APPEARANCE:Theskinisyellowandsmooth,withabright-pinkflush.Thefleshiscreamywhite.Itsconicalshaperesemblesits(likely)GoldenDeliciousparent.

TASTE:TheAmbrosiahas adistinctivelyhoneyed flavor andvery little acidity,bringingtomindaslightlymoreintenseGoldenDeliciousfruit.Thearomasarestronglyfloral.

TEXTURE: Firm, fine, and crisp when fresh, but it softens quickly, so storeAmbrosiainyourfruitdrawer.

ARKANSASBLACK

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE: The favored pie apple ofmanySouthern cooks, theArkansasBlackalsomakesagreatcider.

ORIGIN:FirstgrowninBentonCounty,Arkansas, inthemid-1800s, it’s thoughttobeachanceseedlingfromaWinesap.

AVAILABILITY: This tree thrives inwarmer climates, from the southern states totheSouthwestandCalifornia,andispopularatpick-your-ownorchards.WhenIlived in San Francisco, this apple was a regular at the Ferry Plaza farmers’market.

SEASON: Ripens inOctober andNovember, but keepswell through thewinter.The flesh turns sweeter in storage, so if the recipe calls for firm-tart fruit, useonlyArkansasBlackapplesthathavebeenpickedwithinthepastmonth.

APPEARANCE:Medium-sizedandnicely round,withstunningdeep redskin thatturnspurple-blackthelongeritstaysinstorage.Thefleshhasayellowtinge.

TASTE: Aromatic like a Gala, but with enough acidity to keep it lively, and acherry-spicefinish.

TEXTURE:Quite hardwhen harvested.Crisp andmoderately juicy,with a fine-grainedflesh.

ASHMEAD’SKERNEL

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:Unlikemost of the other apples in this category, theAshmead isn’tfavored mostly for baking, though it does hold up well under heat. Trueconnoisseurslettheappleageinstorageforamonthortwoandenjoyitfresh,orpressitintoextraordinaryjuice.It’salsoapopularhardciderapple.

ORIGIN: Grown from seed around the turn of the eighteenth century by aphysiciannamedDr.AshmeadinGloucester,England.

AVAILABILITY: The Ashmead has earned a following among heirloom appleaficionados.Look for it in farmers’markets near apple-growing regions—I’veseen it in California, Washington, Vermont, and Virginia, and it’s popular inPennsylvania,NewYork,Oregon,Ohio,Minnesota,andMichiganaswell.

SEASON:RipensfromlateSeptembertoNovember;keepswellintospring.

APPEARANCE:Medium-sized,oblate,andsomewhatlumpy,withgreen-goldskin,patchesofrusseting,andarustyblush.

TASTE:Extremelytartwhenfirstpicked,withaflavorreminiscentofcitricacid,green grapes, or Champagne combined with nutty notes from the skin. Itbecomesmuchsweeterafterafewweeksofstorage.

TEXTURE:Verycrispandjuicy.

BALDWIN

CATEGORY:Firm-sweet.

BESTUSE:IliketocombinethisNewEnglandnativewithfirm-tartapplesinold-fashioned desserts like pies, crisps, and pandowdies. It’s also delicious wheneatenfresh.

ORIGIN: Discovered in 1740 on the farm of John Ball in Wilmington,Massachusetts.ItwasoriginallycalledaWoodpeckerbecauseofthebirdswhofrequentedtheoriginaltree,butwasrenamedintheearlynineteenthcentury.Itisnamed after Colonel LoammiBaldwin,who took an interest in the apple andpropagateditaroundtheNortheast.

AVAILABILITY:ThiswasformanyyearsthedominantcommercialvarietyinNewYorkandNewEngland,butit lostgroundtotheJonathanandMcIntoshintheearlytwentiethcenturyduetoitsvulnerabilitytohardfrostsanditstendencytobearfruiteveryotheryear.

SEASON: Generally ripens in late September through October, keeps untilFebruary.

APPEARANCE:Medium-large in size, it has yellow-orange skinwith red stripes.Applesthatgrowinfullsunturnmoreuniformlyred.

TASTE:More tart than theothers in thiscategory,but the sweetnessdominates.It’squitearomatic,withflavorsofspiceandripeapricots.

TEXTURE: Juicy and tender when eaten fresh, but able to hold its shape whencooked.

BLACKOXFORD


BEST USE: TheBlackOxfordmakes a gorgeous pink applesaucewhen cookedwithitsskinon,butitalsoperformswellincrispsandotherbakeddesserts.Asan eating apple, it’s best in the winter—like other long-storing fruit, it getssweeterwithtime.

ORIGIN: Its parentage is unknown, but this seedling first appeared on theValentine farm in Paris, Maine, around 1790. In nearby Hallowell, a two-hundred-year-oldBlackOxfordisstillbearingcropstothisday.

AVAILABILITY:Thiscold-tolerantappleismostpopularinitsnativeMaine,butitisalsogrowninVermont,NewHampshire,andasfarsouthasVirginia.

SEASON:HarvestedinNovember,itkeepswellthroughlatespring.

APPEARANCE:Thisstunnerissuchadeepandrichpurplecolorthatitlooksmorelike a plum than an apple. It can be nearly black in patches,with a red blushpeekingthrough.It’sroundinshapeandusuallymediuminsize.

TASTE: There’s a pure apple flavor here that’smore subtle than you’ll find inmodernfruitbombsliketheJazzorHoneycrisp.Freshoffthetree,ittendstobesemi-tart,buttheacidityfadesrelativelyquickly.

TEXTURE:Hard,dense,andmoderatelyjuicy.

BLACKTWIG(alsoknownasMammothBlacktwig)

CATEGORY:Tender-tart.

BESTUSE:Thisappleisprimarilyusedasadessertandciderapple,whichiswhyIcategorizedithere.Butsomecooksconsideritanall-purposefruit,sofeelfreetoexperimentwithitin,say,anapplecrisporotherrichbakeddessert.

ORIGIN:MostlikelyanativeTennessean,itisthoughttohavebeendiscoveredintheearlynineteenthcenturyasachanceseedlingonthefarmofMajorRankinToolenearFayetteville. Itwas introducedcommerciallyaround1830,andwasreportedlyAndrewJackson’sfavoriteapple.

AVAILABILITY:Southernershave thebest shot at finding this apple, though it isalsogrowncommerciallyinNewYorkandCalifornia.

SEASON: It generally ripens in October, and can store very well through thespring.

APPEARANCE:Theyellow-greenskiniswashedwitharose-redandpurpleblushand has pale lenticels (essentially “pores” on the skin, which appear as littlespots).Thefleshisyellow.

TASTE: Tart-sweet, spicy, and aromatic,with a healthy dose of tannins to lendcomplexity.

TEXTURE:Crisp,juicy,andbreakingwhenfresh,softerinstorage.

BLUEPEARMAIN


BESTUSE:Ciderisitsfirstuse,eatingfreshissecond,buttheBluePearmainalsoholdsupprettywellwhenbakedwhole.

ORIGIN:Itsoriginsareuncertain,butitisaNewEnglandnative,probablyfromthelateeighteenthorearlynineteenthcentury.

AVAILABILITY:Averyhardyappleandacider-maker’sfavorite, thePearmainisbest represented in the northern states, particularly New York. Look for it atfarmers’marketsandpick-your-ownorchards.

SEASON:RipensinOctoberandNovemberanddoesn’tkeepmuchpastJanuary.

APPEARANCE:Adusty,bluenaturalbloomgivesthisappleitsname.Itismediumtolargeinsizeandquiteheavy,withdeepredskinaccentedwithpurple.It’snotunusualtofindafinelaceofrussetingoverthefruit.

TASTE:Sweet,mild,andveryaromatic,withpear,vanilla,andmelonnotes.

TEXTURE:Theskinisquitetoughandwaxy,andthefleshisdenseandcrisp, ifsomewhatdry.

BRAEBURN


BESTUSE: I like to eat theBraeburn fresh, but itsmore subtle flavor and firmtexturecanalsoworkwellindelicatedessertslikecakesandpuddings.

ORIGIN:AchanceseedlingfromNewZealand’sSouthIsland,itwasdiscoveredonthefarmofO.Moranin1952.ItsnamecomesfromBraeburnOrchard,whereitwasfirstgrowncommercially.

AVAILABILITY:Soldinsupermarketseverywhere.

SEASON:Grown in thewarmerapple-growing regionsofbothhemispheres, theBraeburn is available year-round.Quality tends to peak in June (for SouthernHemispherefruit)andearlyNovember(forNorthern).

APPEARANCE:Mediuminsizeandconicalinshape,withbi-coloredskin(yellowwitharose-redblushand/orabundantstripes).

TASTE:Lotsofsweetnessandspice,withahintofpear.

TEXTURE:Veryjuicyandcrisp,quiteeasytobiteinto,andreasonablyfirmwhencooked.

BRAMLEY’SSEEDLING

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:This isapopularcookingapple inEngland,and increasinglyhere intheStates.Italsomakesasfineasauceasyou’lleverfind.

ORIGIN: The first tree grew from a pip planted in 1809 by Miss Mary AnneBailsford of Southwell, Nottinghamshire. A butcher namedMatthew BramleyboughtMissBailsford’spropertyin1846andthevarietywasnamedafterhim.Bramley’s Seedling was introduced commercially in 1865 and in the 1900sbecameEngland’sfavoritecookingapple,particularlyforsauce.

AVAILABILITY:It’snotacommonappleintheStates,butyoucanfinditatsomefarmers’ markets and pick-your-own farms in New England, New York,Michigan,Virginia,andWashingtonState.

SEASON: Early September in warmer climates, October in colder ones. Storeswell.

APPEARANCE: Very large and unevenly round, with pale green skin and stripyrose-redblush.

TASTE:GiventheBramley’sbrightacidity,it’snotsurprisingthatthisvarietyishighinvitaminC.

TEXTURE:Veryfirmwhenrawandbaked,butfine-grainedenoughtocookdownintoaverysmoothpuree.

CALVILLEBLANCD’HIVER

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:ThisisoneofthefavoredcookingapplesinFrance,andamust-haveifyouwanttomakeanauthentictartetatinoranyotherkindoftart.

ORIGIN:France,latesixteenthcentury.

AVAILABILITY: It’s much harder to find in the U.S. though more independentgrowersaregivingitatry.IgetminefromPovertyLaneOrchardsinLebanon,NewHampshire(povertylaneorchards.com).

SEASON: Ripens October to early November. For eating fresh, it reaches peakflavoraboutamonthafterpicking.

APPEARANCE:Quitelargeandheavy,it’spalegreenwitharedblushinthespotswherethesunhitsitonthetree.It’sroundinshape,withwideshouldersatthetop and signature ridges running down the sides. In this way, it resembles abeefsteaktomato.

TASTE:Brightlyacidic,spicy,andabitcitrusy,withahoneyfinish.TheCalvilleBlanchasmorevitaminCthananorange,andifnotallowedtoripenfully,canseem a bit too acidic for eating fresh. Fully ripe, it has a lovely tart-sweetbalance.

TEXTURE:Rightoffthetree,itisdense,firm,crisp,andveryjuicy—muchmoreso than many apples in its category. In short, I can find no fault with thisextraordinaryapple!Afterafewweeksinstorage,though,itdoeslosesomeofitscrispness,butretainsgoodflavor.

CAMEO


BESTUSE:Eatingfresh,orindisheswhereasweeterflavorisdesired,suchastheSausage with Braised Cabbage and Apples on page 137 or the Baked AppleFrenchToastonpage156.

ORIGIN:Itsoundslikeanantique,butwasactuallyachanceseedlingdiscoveredinaRedDeliciousorchardnearWenatchee,Washington,inthe1980s.

AVAILABILITY:WithalltheWashingtonappleindustry’smarketingmightbehindit, this apple iswidely distributed across the countrywith a good presence insupermarkets.

SEASON: Harvested in September and October; available all the way throughsummer,thankstoSouthernHemispheregrowers.

APPEARANCE:Medium in size and conical, it looks like a paler, moremottledversionoftheRedDelicious.

TASTE: Yet againwith the comparisons: theCameo’s popularity comes in partfrombeingan improvementon theRD.Its flavor isbrighterandabit lemony,butwiththefamiliarpearovertonesofitsparent.

TEXTURE:Quitetender,butwithapleasantcrispness.

CORTLAND


BESTUSE:ManycooksswearthattheCortlandmakesafantasticpie,butI’vehadtoomanymushyresultstomakethatclaim.Ofcourse,ifyoulovecookingwiththe Cortland, by all means do so! This fruit’s flesh is pure white and resistsbrowningaswellasanyapple,whichmakesitperfectforsalads.Thethinskinmeansyoudon’thavetopeelit,either.

ORIGIN: This cultivar was bred in 1898 by Professor S. A. Beach, the famedhorticulturistattheNewYorkStateAgriculturalExperimentStationinGeneva,NewYork.His1905book,TheApplesofNewYork,isstillconsideredaprimaryresourceforapplegrowers.TheCortland’sparentsareBenDavisandMcIntosh.

AVAILABILITY: Very easy to find in the Northeast,Mid-Atlantic, andMidwest;lesscommoninthewesternU.S.

SEASON:RipenslateSeptemberthroughOctober;keepsthroughearlywinter.

APPEARANCE:ThisisaMcIntosh-typeapple,withyellow-greenskinaccentedorevencoveredwithadeep,blue-redblushandrustystripes.

TASTE:Inflavor,theCortlandislikethetartequivalentoftheGoldenDelicious:pleasant but not particularly complex. The best examples have a rich, almostjammyfruitflavor.

TEXTURE:Verytender,withjustenoughcrispnesstokeepitfrombeingmealy(atleastwhenfresh).

COX’SORANGEPIPPIN


BESTUSE:AbeloveddessertappleinBritain,theCox’sOrangehastenderfleshthat’sfantasticwheneatenfresh.Nevertheless,I’vefoundmanyBritishrecipesfor puddings and crisps that call specifically forCox’sOrange Pippin, so feelfreetoexperiment.

ORIGIN:Cox’sOrangeoriginatedin1830,achanceseedlingfromaRibstontreethat grew at Colnbrook Lawn in Buckinghamshire, and was discovered byRichardCox.

AVAILABILITY:Anapplelover’sfavorite, thisvarietyhasbeenshowingupmoreandmore in farmers’markets,particularlyon theEastCoastand theMidwest,whereBritishappleshavemoreofafollowing,butitisalsogrowninNorthernCalifornia.

SEASON:InmostregionsitripensbetweenlateSeptemberandmid-October.

APPEARANCE:Notsurprisingly,giventhename,thisPippin’sskinhasanorangebase accentedwith bright red patches. It’smedium-sized, nicely rounded, andslightlyribbed,withcream-coloredflesh.

TASTE:Citrusyandalmosttropical-tasting,withpeararomas.Ithasmoretartnessthansomeoftheapplesinthiscategory,butthebalancestillfallsonthesideofsweet.

TEXTURE:Quitejuicy,withanicetenderness.

EMPIRE


BESTUSE:MuchlikeitsMcIntoshparent,theEmpireisbesteatenfreshorusedinapplesauce.

ORIGIN:Bred in the1940sand introduced in1966, it isacrossbetweenaRedDelicious and aMcIntosh, developed at New York’s Agricultural ExperimentStationinGeneva.

AVAILABILITY: This is among the minor league apples that do show up onsupermarketshelves,butnotwiththeregularityof,say,itsRedDeliciousparent.Though native to the Northeast and most popular in New York, it’s soldthroughout thecountry,and ifyoucan’t find itat thegrocerystore,your localfarmstandorfarmers’markethasagoodchanceofcomingthrough.

SEASON:SeptembertoOctober.ThisapplekeepsbetterthanaMcIntosh,butonlybyafewweeks.

APPEARANCE:Petiteandquiteperfectlyround,withadeepredblushoverapalegreen background.Many fruits are entirely red. The flesh is brightwhite anddoesnotbruiseeasily.

TASTE:Amildtartnessandaflavorthatbringstomindrosehipteawithhoney.AromasaresimilartothoseofMcIntosh.

TEXTURE:Freshoffthetree,it’squitesnappy.Afterabitoftime,itturnsgrainy;ifyoucandentthefleshwhengentlypressingonit,don’tbuyit.

ESOPUSSPITZENBURG

CATEGORY:Firm-tart

BESTUSE:Thisapplehassomanylayersofflavorthatitreallyisextraordinarywheneatenfreshorwhenusedtomakehardorsweetcider.However,itholdsupwellenoughinbakingtoqualifyasafirmapple,andI’duseit indessertsliketheCrêpes Filled with Caramelized Apples on page 245, the Dutch Baby onpage159,ortheSwedishApplePieonpage189.

ORIGIN:Lateeighteenthcentury,fromthetownofEsopusinUlsterCounty,NewYork.GainedfameasoneofThomasJefferson’sfavoritedessertapples.

AVAILABILITY:Apopularappleamongheirloomaficionados, itperformsbest incooler climates and can be found at farmers’ markets in the Northeast, mid-Atlantic,upperMidwest,andNorthernCalifornia.

SEASON: Ripens September to October, but can store well through the winterwithoutlosingflavor.Awonderfulchoiceforholidaydesserts.

APPEARANCE:Medium-large,smooth,andconical,withscarletstripesonapalegreenbackground.

TASTE:Incrediblyaromaticandrich,withbrightacidityandlivelyfloral,citrus,tropicalfruit,andspicenotes.

TEXTURE:Hardandcrisp,withlotsofjuicethatseemsnearlyeffervescent.

FAMEUSE(alsoknownasSnowApple)


BESTUSE:Eatingoutofhand,incider,orinsauce.

ORIGIN:Itsexacthistoryisunknown,andthereisadebateaboutwhetherthefirstFameusewasaseedlingbroughtfromFranceoraCanadiannative.Inanycase,itbecamethefavoritevarietyaroundnorthernVermontandCanada.

AVAILABILITY:Thefarthernorththisapplegrows,thehappieritis.LookforitintheLakeChamplainandSt.Lawrencevalleys,aswellastheupperMidwest.

SEASON:RipensinOctober;storeswellintoearlywinter.

APPEARANCE: A smaller, roundish, very beautiful apple, the Fameuse is, well,famous for its acute sensitivity to light. Many fruits will display interestingphotographic impressionson the skin thatmarkwhere surrounding leaveshadshaded them.Theskin isbright redwithpurplishstreaksand the flesh ispurewhite.

TASTE: More sweet than tart, with a flavor like spiced apple cider andstrawberries.

TEXTURE:Verytender,whichmakesthisappleperfectforeatingfreshbutnotagoodbaker.Theskinissmoothandverythin—nopeelingnecessary!

FUJI


BEST USE: Lots of sugar and low acidity make this primarily a dessert apple,thoughIalsolikeitindelicatecakes.

ORIGIN: A Japanese import, the Fuji was developed in 1939 at the TohokuResearchStationinFujisaki.It’sacrossbetweentheRedDeliciousandtheRallsJanet,aneighteenth-centuryapplefromVirginiabywayofFrance.

AVAILABILITY:Soldinnearlyeverygrocerystorethatsellsapples.

SEASON:Fullyyear-round, thanks toavery longshelf lifeand the supply frombothNorthernandSouthernHemispheregrowers.

APPEARANCE: Not always the prettiest apple, it’s small to medium-sized andgenerallyconical,withyellowskintingedwithredandrust-coloredstripes.

TASTE:Sweet,floral,andnotoverlycomplex,theflavorremindsmeoftheappleslicesdippedinhoneythatweeateveryyearfortheJewishNewYear.

TEXTURE:Crisp,firm,juicy,yettender.

GALA


BESTUSE:WhileIconsidertheGalaprimarilyafresh-eatingapple,itcankeepitsshape well enough that I recommend it in quick-cooking dishes such as theOatmeal-ApplePancakesonpage161.

ORIGIN:A1920scultivardevelopedinNewZealandbyJ.H.Kidd,whocrossedGolden Delicious with his namesake Kidd’s Orange Red. The Gala wasintroducedcommerciallyinthe1960s.

AVAILABILITY:Anotherubiquitoussupermarketfavorite,theGalaisalsopopularatfarmstands.

SEASON:Year-round.

APPEARANCE: The Gala’s bright colors are its trademark: vivid yellow stripedwithrosy-redlinesandascarletblush.Itisgenerallysmalltomedium-sizedandsomewhatovalinshape,withcreamywhiteflesh.Avoidpale-coloredfruit:theflavorisoftencorrespondinglyweak.

TASTE: A true sweet-tart apple with just a hint more honey than acid and afloweryaroma.

TEXTURE:Likesomanypopular,newerapples,theGalaismarkedbycrispfleshandlotsofjuice.

GINGERGOLD


BESTUSE:Useincakesandmuffins,suchastheAppleBrowniesonpage238orthe Morning Glory Muffins on page 174. The flesh resists browning, whichmakesitagoodchoiceforsalads,too.

ORIGIN:TheGingerGoldsprouteduparound1969inaNelsonCounty,Virginia,orchard thathadbeenclearedbyHurricaneCamillea fewyearsearlier. ItwasnamedafterFrances “Ginger”Harvey,whoowned the landwithher husband,Clyde.Local botanists put it as a cross betweenGoldenDelicious,AlbemarlePippin, and another, unknownvariety.Firstmarketed in the1980s, it haswonfavorwithlarge-scalegrowersbecauseitripensasearlyasJuly.

AVAILABILITY: Now grown widely in the mild apple-growing regions ofCalifornia,thePacificNorthwest,andthesoutheasternstates,it’savailableinanincreasingnumberofsupermarketsnationwidethroughthefall.

SEASON:FruitripensJulytoearlySeptember.Itstaysfirmforseveralmonths,butI’vefoundthatittendstolosemuchofitsflavorbymid-November.

APPEARANCE:Yellowandconical,withawaxyskin.Thefleshiscream-colored.

TASTE:Thoughthisfruitisnamedafterapersonandnotthespice,itdoeshavealivelylemonyspiceflavor.

TEXTURE:Lightandcrispwithmoderatejuiciness.

GOLDENDELICIOUS


BESTUSE:Useincombinationwithfirm-tartapples inpies,crisps,andthelike.TheGoldenwon’tknockyoursocksoffwithitsflavor,butit’seasytofindandperformsverywellwhenpairedwithmorearomaticvarieties.

ORIGIN: Another chance seedling, the first Golden appeared on a hillside inBomont, West Virginia, around 1890. Originally named Mullins’ YellowSeedling after its finder, AndrewMullins, it was renamed by the Stark Bro’sNurseries—famedmarketersof theoriginalRedDelicious—when theyboughttherightsin1914.Ithasnorelationtothelatterapple.

AVAILABILITY:OneofthemostpopularapplesintheU.S.,itthrivesinthewarmerregionsofCalifornia,thePacificNorthwest,andthesoutheasternstates.It’salsogrowninAustraliaandNewZealand.It’ssoldinmosteverysupermarket.

SEASON: Ripens mid-September through October and stays firm for severalmonths, but loses acidity relatively quickly. Southern hemisphere fruit isavailablethroughspring.

APPEARANCE:Paleyellow,conical,andlightlyspotted.

TASTE:Sweetandquitemildwithbuttery,honeynotes.

TEXTURE:Thinskin,moderately juicyflesh,andanicesnapwhenfreshoff thetree.

GOLDENRUSSET


BESTUSE:Oneofthegreatall-timeciderapples,theGoldenRussetalsoholdsupfairlywellwhen cooked, and the flavor is exceptional. I particularly like it inapplesauce, and in lemon-accented desserts like theMarlborough Pie on page201.

ORIGIN: Its origins weren’t well documented, but it’s thought to be a chanceseedlingfrommid-nineteenth-centuryNewYork.ItissimilarbutnotidenticaltotheEnglishGoldenRusset.

AVAILABILITY: Another heirloom with a growing fan base, this is becomingincreasingly common in farmers’ markets in the Northeast, Mid-Atlantic,Midwest,andPacificNorthwest.

SEASON: Begins ripening in the South in September and runs through lateOctoberintheNorth.Itisagoodkeeper.

APPEARANCE: Stout and often oblate, it has a russeted skin with yellowundertones.

TASTE:Justlikeeatingasliceoflemoncustard.There’sanalmondaromatotheskin,andthejuicehasawonderfullysyrupyquality.There’splentyofsweetnesshere,buttheaciditykeepsitfrombecomingcloying.

TEXTURE:Verydense,coarse,andhard,whichputsitatoddswithtoday’stenderGala-styleapples.

GOLDRUSH

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BEST USE: The Goldrush takes all the great cooking qualities of its GoldenDeliciousparent and adds loadsof bright, citrusy flavor. I especially like it inspiced,bakeddessertsliketheapplecrispsinChapter8.

ORIGIN: The first seedling was planted in 1973 at the Purdue UniversityHorticulturalResearchFarm.GoldrushisacomplexcultivarthatcombinestraitsofGoldenDelicious,Melrose,andRomeBeauty,amongothers.

AVAILABILITY:Lookforitatfarmers’marketsandpick-your-ownorchardsintheNortheast, Mid-Atlantic, and Midwest. I’ve also seen it at specialty producestores.

SEASON:Here’soneapplethatmanagestokeepitsflavorandtextureforsixorsevenmonthsinstorage.ItripensinOctoberandNovember.

APPEARANCE:Mediumtomedium-largeinsize.Greenishyellowtodeepyellowskin,sometimeswithabronzeblushwherethesunlingered.Abitofrussetingiscommon,too.

TASTE:Almostlikebitingintoasweet,slightlyspicyorange.Thereisagooddealofacidity,whichmellowsashorttimeafterpicking,butitremainsfairlytart.

TEXTURE: Firm and moderately coarse, with nice crispness even after a fewmonthsinstorage.

GRANNYSMITH

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:WhenNorthernSpyorCalvilleBlanc isn’tavailable, this isadecentalternativeforpies,tarts,andotherrichpastrydesserts.

ORIGIN:ThisapplewasachanceseedlingdiscoveredbyaMrs.Smith(varyingreports have her first name as Anne,Mary, andMaria) in New SouthWales,Australia, around 1868. The apple’s firm flesh, bright acidity, and excellentkeepingqualitieshavemadeitoneoftheworld’smostpopularapples.

AVAILABILITY:You’llbesure to findGrannyanywhereapplesaresold,but it ismostlygrowninwarmerregions.

SEASON: This variety ripens around mid-October in the Northern Hemisphere,andmid-AprilintheSouthern,andbecauseitstoressowell,qualityapplesareavailableyear-round.

APPEARANCE: Large, uniformly pale green and slightly conical, with greenish-whiteflesh.

TASTE:Lemony,abitvegetal,andnotterriblycomplex,butpleasantandtart.

TEXTURE:Dense,firm,andsomewhatcoarse;moderatelyjuicywhenfresh.

GRAVENSTEIN


BESTUSE:Asolidpieapple,theGravisagoodpickforthebutteryRusticAppleBrownBettyonpage211.ItsraspberryaromasinspiredtheGravensteinApple-RaspberryTartonpage205.

ORIGIN:It’snotclearexactlywherethisappleoriginated.VariousclaimshaveitfirstgrowinginRussia,Italy,orontheGerman-Danishborder.Itwasintroducedto the U.S. in the eighteenth century and reached California in the earlynineteenthcentury.Whenraisedinacoolerclimate,thisappletendstobemoretartthanthoseraisedontheWestCoast.

AVAILABILITY:ThewesternGravenstein(picturedabove)isubiquitousinregionalmarkets, particularly in California. The northern Gravenstein is available atfarmers’marketsandpick-your-ownfarms.

SEASON:ItripensfromlateJulyintheWestthroughearlyOctoberintheNorthandisbestusedfresh.

APPEARANCE:ThewesternGravisusuallybrightgoldwithampleredandcopperstripes.Theskingetswaxysoonafterripening.ThenorthernGravgenerallyhasmoregreenthanthewestern.Bothareoblongandoftenuneveninappearance.

TASTE:Sweet-tartwithcitrusnotesandahintofraspberry.

TEXTURE:Juicyandtender,withanicethinskin.

GRIMESGOLDEN


BESTUSE:ItshighsugarcontentmeanstheGrimesmakesanexcellenthardcider,but it’s also a good all-purpose cooking apple. I particularly like it in butterybakedgoods.

ORIGIN: Here’s an applewith anAmerican pedigree: It was a chance seedlingdiscoveredin1804nearaBrookeCounty,WestVirginia,cidermillandorchardthathadbeenestablishedbyJohnnyAppleseedhimself.ThefinderwasThomasGrimes,andhegottokeepthenamingrights.

AVAILABILITY:TheGrimescanbegrownanywhere,butproducesthebestflavorinmilderzones,suchastheMid-AtlanticstatesandVirginia,andyou’relikelyto find it at local farmers’markets and farmstands. It’s effectively the officialappleofWestVirginiaandcanbefoundinabundancethere.

SEASON: Ripens from mid-September to mid-October; stores well throughJanuary.

APPEARANCE:Medium-sizedandslightlyoblong,thisapplehasyellow-greenskinandtendstosportsomerusseting.Thefleshiscream-colored.

TASTE:Sweet,rich,andspicy,withamildaromaofcilantro.Ifyoudon’tlikethatflavor,don’tletitdiscourageyou,though;it’sverysubtle.

TEXTURE:Coarseandquitecrisp,butyieldingtothebite.

HIDDENROSE(alsoknownasAerlieRedFleshed)

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.(Uncutapplephotoonpage119.)

BESTUSE:Becauseit’ssounusualandprettytolookat,theHiddenRoseisofteneaten fresh, but it does cookwell. Itwould be awelcome substitution for theGravensteinintheGravensteinApple-RaspberryTartonpage205.

ORIGIN:AnOregonnative,theapplefirstappearedasachanceseedlingonlandbelonging toLuckyandAudreyNewell inAirlie.Twodecades later, an applegrowernamedLouisKimzeyfoundthetreeandtheHiddenRosewasonitswaytobeingmarketedasared-fleshednovelty.

AVAILABILITY: When properly stored, the Hidden Rose can keep for severalmonths. It is most popular in its native Pacific Northwest, but I have seen itbeinggrowninlocationsasdiverseasIndiana,Massachusetts,andEngland.

SEASON:ItripensinOctoberandisusuallyavailablethroughmid-November.

APPEARANCE:AswiththePinkPearl,apink-brownexteriorbeliesitsbrightpinkflesh.Theskinissmoothandshiny,andthefruitismediuminsizeandconical.

TASTE: Red-fleshed apples tend to have berry flavors, and this one is noexception.TheHiddenRoseI’vetastedvaryinflavorintensity.Somearevibrantandtart,otherssomewhatbland.Theytendtohavecandy-applearomas.

TEXTURE:Freshapplesarecrispandmoderatelyjuicy.

HONEYCRISP


BESTUSE:Mostpeopleuse itonlyasadessertapple,but itdoeskeepitsshapewellwhenbaked.Ifyoulikeyourappleswithasatisfyingcrunch,eat thisonefresh.

ORIGIN:DevelopedattheUniversityofMinnesotaHorticulturalResearchCenterin the 1960s. Interestingly, the patent for this cultivar lists Macoun andHoneygold as its parents, but genetic testing in 2004 proved that claim false.Honeycrispwasreleasedcommerciallyin1991.

AVAILABILITY: The Honeycrisp is most popular in the upper Midwest regionwhere it was developed, but you can also find it being grown at speciallylicensed orchards in the northeast and in colder parts ofWashington.With itspopularityontherise,expecttoseeitinmoresupermarketsinthecomingyears.

SEASON:Ripensmid-SeptemberthroughOctober;keepswellthroughthewinter.

APPEARANCE: Medium-large to large and oblate, with a bright red and orangeflushoverayellow-greenbackground.Ifgivenfullsun, itcanturncompletelyred.

TASTE:Assweetasitsnameimplies,withjustenoughacidtokeepitfrombeingsaccharine.Flavorsofhoneyandpearaddcomplexity.

TEXTURE:Justasyou’dexpect,thisappleisincrediblycrispandsojuicythatitseemsnearlyeffervescent.

HUDSON’SGOLDENGEM


BEST USE: This fruit is probably best enjoyed as an eating apple, though youcoulduseitintendercakesandotherdelicatedesserts.

ORIGIN: This seedling variety was discovered in southern Oregon in the earlytwentieth century and introduced commercially in 1931 byHudsonWholesaleNurseries.

AVAILABILITY: It may be a western apple, but Hudson’s Golden Gem has agrowing following in the Northeast (I hadmy first taste at the Union SquareGreenmarketinManhattan).

SEASON:Harvest ranges from late September to earlyNovember.Kept cold, itcanbestoredwellintoJanuary.

APPEARANCE: Generally large in size, this apple has fully russeted—thoughsurprisingly smooth—skinandaconical, somewhat lumpyshape.Thecolor isyellow-browntogreen-brownandthefleshisquiteyellow.

TASTE:Likemostrussetedapples,Hudson’sGoldenGemhaspronouncednuttyflavors,butit’ssweeterthanmost,withassertivepearnotes.

TEXTURE:Juicy,grainy,andcrisp;firmatfirstbite,butquicklyyielding.

IDARED

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:Agoodcookingapple,theIdaredisalsoaniceoptionforbakingwholeandusinginpiesandtarts.Itproducesaprettypinkapplesaucewhenyoucookitwiththeskinson.It’salsoapopularchoiceformakingapplebutter,particularlyinmountainregionsoftheSouth.

ORIGIN: This cross between Jonathan and Wagener was developed at theUniversity of Idaho Agricultural Experiment Station in Moscow, Idaho, andintroducedcommerciallyin1941.

AVAILABILITY: It’s not a typical supermarket variety, but the Idared is grown inmanypartsofthecountry,solookforitatpick-your-ownorchardsandfarmers’markets.ItisalsogrowninFranceandGermany.

SEASON: A very good keeper, this apple tends to last well beyond its mid-Septembertomid-Octoberharvestperiod,storingevenintospring.

APPEARANCE:Medium to large in size and oblate, the Idared is, indeed, brightred, particularly when allowed to ripen fully on the tree. The flesh is brightwhite.

TASTE:Tart-sweetandspicy,withahealthydoseoftanninstolendcomplexity.

TEXTURE:Thisfruitisgenerallyjuicy,quitefirm,andmoderatelycoarse.

JAZZ


BESTUSE:LiketheHoneycrisp,it’sterrifictoeatoutofhand.It’salsoniceandfirmwhenbaked,andlikethePinkLady,itkeepsitsrosyhue.

ORIGIN: A cross between Gala and Braeburn, the Jazz was developed in NewZealandinthe1980sandreleasedcommerciallyin2004.

AVAILABILITY: It’sa testimonyto thisapple’sexceptional flavor that ithasgonefromanoveltytoasupermarketstandardinjustaboutsevenyears.Don’tbotherlooking at farmers’ markets, though. The New Zealand agency that owns therightstothefruithavetightcontrolsonwhereit’sgrown.

SEASON: Until recently, the apple was only available during the SouthernHemisphere spring growing season, but now that some large orchards inWashington have been granted licenses, the Jazz is available formuch of theyear.

APPEARANCE:Medium-sizedandscarletred,withyellow-greenpatches.

TASTE: This is, in my view, one of the best of the new apple breeds that aredominatingthemarket:lotsofaromatic,vaguelytropicalsweetnessbalancedbybrightacidity.Abundantjuicemakesitveryrefreshing.

TEXTURE: Fine-grained but surprisingly hard for an apple from the Gala andBraeburnfamily.

JONAGOLD


BESTUSE:TheJonagoldhasenoughacidity tomake itanevenbetterpieapplethantheGoldenDelicious.Igenerallyliketomixapplevarietiesinmypies,butanall-Jonagoldpieisanicething.

ORIGIN:ThiscrossbetweentheJonathanandGoldenDeliciouswasmadeattheNewYork StateAgricultural Experiment Station in the 1950s. The applewasreleasedin1968.ItisextremelypopularinEurope,Japan,thePacificNorthwest,andBritishColumbia.

AVAILABILITY:This isaversatileapple thatcanbegrownfromtheNortheast tothe West Coast, to the upper Midwest and southern mountain states. It is,however,sensitivetosunburn.Lookforitinagrowingnumberofsupermarketsnationwide,aswellasfarmers’markets.

SEASON:Ripensfrommid-September throughOctober,dependingonwhere it’sgrown;keepswellforamonthortwo.

APPEARANCE:Alarge,golden,conicalfruitwithabrightflushthatturnsorangeinwarmerclimatesandredincoolerones.Thefleshisnearlyyellow.

TASTE:Verysweet,withhoneyednotesandthesamemelonaromasofaGoldenDelicious.

TEXTURE:Thefleshisverytenderandjuicy,butoverlaidwithatoughskin.

JONATHAN


BESTUSE: Inmyexperience,manyJonathanappleswill cookdown toa sauce.For this reason, it’s categorized as tender-tart, but some bakers swear byJonathansasbakingapples.Ifyou’remakingapie,tart,orcobbler,hedgeyourbetsbyaddingsomefirm-sweetapples.

ORIGIN:AseedlingfromanEsopusSpitzenburgtree,itfirstappearedintheearly1800son the farmofPhillipRick inWoodstock,NewYork. It is named afterJonathanHasbrouck,whointroducedtheappletoJudgeJ.Buel,presidentoftheAlbanyHorticulturalSocietyaround1826.

AVAILABILITY:TheJonathanisgrowncommerciallyinNewYork,NewEngland,Michigan,Pennsylvania,Ohio,northernCalifornia,andWashington.Ifyoulivein these regions and can’t find the apple at your supermarket, you’ll almostcertainlyfinditatthefarmers’market.

SEASON:GenerallyripensinOctoberandisrarelyavailablepastThanksgiving.

APPEARANCE:Medium-sized and round,with a tapered end.A fully ripe appleoftenhasyellowskinoverlaidbyadeepredblushandstriping.

TASTE: Flavors range from sweet-tart to tart, with a spicy finish. This appledefinitelyisn’ttheshy,retiringtype.

TEXTURE:Theskinisthinbuttough;thefleshcrispandtender,withaveryfine-grainedtextureandabundantjuice.

KEEPSAKE


BEST USE: Fans cite this apple’s intense aromatics as a reason to simply eat itfresh,but it isalsoaverygoodcookingapple forcrisps,cakes,puddings,andpies.

ORIGIN: This hybrid from the University of Minnesota’s breeding program, acrossofMalindaandNorthernSpy,wasintroducedcommerciallyin1979.Ithassince been determined that Keepsake is one of the parents of the far morefamousHoneycrisp.

AVAILABILITY: This variety seems to be gaining popularity ever since theHoneycrispconnectionwasmadepublicin2004.LookforitmostlyatorchardsintheNortheastandMidwest.

SEASON:KeepsakeripensfromlateSeptembertomid-October.Asforhowlongit keeps, the name says it all: this fruit typically stores well into spring. Onegrower I know says he’s eaten very nice eight-month-oldKeepsakes from hisrootcellarinJune.

APPEARANCE: Generallymedium in size and conic in shape, theKeepsake hasyellowishflesh,andred,stripedskin.

TASTE:Aswithmanyvarieties,theKeepsake’sflavorisbestafteraboutamonthinstorage.Then,it isallsweetness(I’veseenitcomparedtosugarcane),withenougharomaticspicetokeepitinteresting.

TEXTURE:Thisappleisquitehard,withfine,crispflesh.

LADYAPPLE(alsoknownasPommed’Api)


BESTUSE:ThetinyLadyAppleisapopulardecorativeelementinfruitbasketsorflower arrangements (we scattered it over the tables at our wedding) and isdelicious when eaten fresh. The flesh becomes quite soft when cooked, but Isometimesliketoroastitwithporkorchickendishes.

ORIGIN:Not tobeconfusedwith themodernPinkLady, thisstoriedapplegoesback to early seventeenth-centuryFrance,where itwas first recorded in1628.Somesayit’sadirectdescendantoftheAppiaappleprizedbytheRomans,butthat’sadifficultthingtoprove.

AVAILABILITY: Look for it in gourmet markets and even florist’s shops inNovemberandearlyDecember.

SEASON: Ripens from October to early November and keeps for two or threemonths,whichaccountsforitspopularityasaholidaydecoration.I’veneverhadmuchluckfindingitpastDecember,though.

APPEARANCE:Petiteandoblateinshape,withbrightgreenskinaccentedbyaredblushsovividitlooksalmostairbrushed.

TASTE:Abitlikeapplejamcombinedwithcitrus—veryvividandtart-sweet.

TEXTURE:Tender,crisp,andjuicy.

MACOUN


BESTUSE:Ican’tthinkofabetterusefortheMacounthanasafreshsnackingorsweet cider apple, but it alsomakes a terrific applesauce. Some people swearthatitmakesagoodpie,butIthinkthefleshistoosoft.

ORIGIN: This cross betweenMcIntosh and Jersey Black was developed at theNewYorkStateAgriculturalExperimentStationinGeneva,NewYork,in1909.It was introduced commercially in 1923 and named after the Canadian fruitbreeder,Dr.W.T.Macoun.

AVAILABILITY:TheMacounisarestrainedbearerandhasshortstems,whichcancause the fruits to push themselves off the tree as they ripen. Thismakes theMacoundifficulttofindoutsidetheNortheast,butithasalargefollowingthereandcanbefoundatmanysupermarketsandfarmstands.

SEASON:RipensinearlyOctober;keepsthroughDecember.

APPEARANCE:SimilarinsizetotheMcIntosh,withthesameoblateshapeandared-on-green palette. However, the blush on the Macoun is darker—almostpurpleinspots.

TASTE:TheMacounissweeterthantheMcIntosh,butstillhasenoughaciditytoqualifyastart.Theflavorbringstomindripestrawberries.

TEXTURE:Thetoughskinyieldstoacrunchy,white,juicyflesh.

MCINTOSH


BEST USE: The Mac readily cooks down, which makes it a perfect choice forapplesauce. In a pie, it provides a mushy base in which firmer slices can besuspended—atexturemygrandmotherRosepreferred.Ifeatingfresh,makesurethe flesh is firm to the touch; Macs get very grainy and unpleasant whenoverripe.

ORIGIN: JohnMcIntoshdiscovered thischanceseedlingonhis farminMatilda,Ontario, and his son Alan introduced it commercially around 1870. Its geneshavegivenrisetovarietiessuchasCortland,Empire,Macoun,andSpartan.

AVAILABILITY: Thrives in colder climates and is generally easy to find in EastCoast supermarkets during apple season. It’s rarer inwestern states, though itdoespopupatmarketsinCaliforniaandthePacificNorthwest.

SEASON:RipensSeptembertoearlyOctober;keepsuntilDecember.

APPEARANCE:Shinyskin,sometimesgreenwitharedblush,sometimesfullyred.Smalltomediuminsize,withanoblateshape.

TASTE:Tartandquitespicy,withvegetalundertones.

TEXTURE:Comparedtothetender,juicy,snow-whiteflesh,theskinseemsthickandtough.It’spackedwithflavor,though,soIalwayscookmyapplesaucewiththeskin.

MELROSE


BESTUSE:Thisappleisabitmoretenderthansomeof theothervarieties initscategory, but it does hold its shapewellwhen sliced and baked. If you like amore delicate apple in your pies, cakes, and crisps, give this fruit a try.Otherwise,it’sperfectlydeliciouswheneatenfresh,especiallyafteritsweetensupabitinstorage.

ORIGIN: This cross between Jonathan and Red Delicious is an Ohio native,introduced in 1944 by FreemanHowlett of the OhioAgricultural ExperimentStation.

AVAILABILITY: It’s a supermarket staple in Ohio, and is available at manyfarmstandsinmountainzonesandinthenorthernhalfofthecountry.

SEASON:RipensinSeptemberandOctober;keepswellforseveralmonths.

APPEARANCE:TheMelroselookslikealargerMcIntosh,withanoblateshapeandyellow-greenskinaccented(ornearlycovered)withdeepred.

TASTE:AMelrosecanbetartrightoffthetree,butgrowssweetafterashorttimeinstorage.

TEXTURE: The juicy flesh is crisp and somewhat coarse, and holds up well tobaking.

MUTSU(alsoknownasCrispin)


BESTUSE:Here’sanotherapplethatreallyshineswheneatenfreshbutcanalsobeusedinbakedgoods,suchasmuffinsandcakes.

ORIGIN:AcrossbetweenGoldenDeliciousandtheJapanesevarietycalledIndo,the Mutsu was developed in the 1930s at the Aomori Experiment Station inNorthernJapan.

AVAILABILITY: This very popular dessert apple can be found in mostsupermarkets.

SEASON: It ripens in October in most northern climes, but thanks to SouthernHemispheregrowersyoucanfindtheseapplesyear-round.

APPEARANCE: Very large and quite irregular in shape, with a yellow-greenbackgroundandsometimesanorange-redblush.

TASTE:Definitelysweet-tart, rather than tart-sweet,witha floweryhoneysuckleandmildspiceflavor.

TEXTURE:Supremelyjuicyandascrispastheycome.

NEWTOWNPIPPIN(alsoknownasAlbemarlePippin)

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:Whenfirstpicked,theNewtownPippinisbestforrichdessertssuchastarts and pies; its acidity plays well against the butter. As the fruit growsyellowerandsweeter,whichoftenhappenswhenit’sgrowninmilderclimates,it’sstillagoodall-purposevarietyforbaking.

ORIGIN: Grown from a seedling in what is now Queens, New York, it gainedpopularity in the mid-eighteenth century and was brought to England byBenjaminFranklinaround1759.Inthepastfewyears,ithasbeenembracedbyagroupoflocavoreNewYorkers,whohaveorganizedtoplanttreesincommunitygardens,schools,andparks.

AVAILABILITY:Thisappleprefersamildclimate—itthrivedatMonticelloandwasa favorite of GeorgeWashington—so it is most readily available in the mid-Atlantic states, the Pacific Northwest, and in California, where it’s used inMartinelli’sfamoussparklingcider.

SEASON: It ripens from lateSeptember to earlyNovember, andkeepswell intothespring.

APPEARANCE:Mediuminsizeandoftenlopsidedorconicalwithsmoothyellow-greenskin,arosyblush,andsomerusseting;creamyflesh.

TASTE: Extremely fragrant, with an orange-banana flavor and slightly pineyaroma.

TEXTURE:Firm,crisp,andquitejuicy.

NORTHERNSPY

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:ManycookscalltheNorthernSpythebestpieapplearound,thankstoitsbrightflavorandabilitytostayfirmwhenslicedandbaked.IfIhadtopickasinglevarietyformyownpies(whichIdon’tliketodo,knowinghowmuchalittlevarietyimprovesthefilling),Iwouldchoosethisone.

ORIGIN:Anotherearlynineteenth-centurychanceseedling,theNorthernSpywasdiscoveredinEastBloomfield,NewYork,butdidn’tbecomepopularforseveraldecades.

AVAILABILITY:TheSpyhasbeengrownalloverthecountry,butprefersthecoolerclimates ofNewEngland, NewYork,Michigan, andOntario. There, you canstill find the apple in supermarkets, though farmers’ markets are your mostreliablesource.

SEASON: Peak season is late September through October, but it keeps wellthroughthewinter.

APPEARANCE:Large,withdeep-redsidesandaslightlyridgedshape;thefleshiscream-colored.

TASTE:Brightandlively,withahintofstrawberry.

TEXTURE:Firmandfine-grained,withatender,thinskin.

OPALESCENT


BESTUSE:Itsrichflavorsmakeitagoodchoiceforeatingfresh,butOpalescentalsoholdsuptoheat;tryitincombinationwithfirm-tartapplesinapie.

ORIGIN: Opalescent was first introduced commercially in the late nineteenthcenturybytheMcNaryandGainesCompanyofXenia,Ohio.

AVAILABILITY:Generallyanorthernapple,itcanbefoundatfarmers’marketsinOhio,NewYork,andNewEngland.

SEASON: Ripens frommid-September through earlyOctober and can be storedthroughthefall.

APPEARANCE:Largeand round,withclearyellowskincoveredwithadeep redwash.Thefleshisverypaleyellow-green.

TASTE:Sweet,rich,andfloral,withtropicalandberrynotes.

TEXTURE:Toughskingiveswaytocoarse,crunchy,verydense,andmoderatelyjuicyflesh.

PIÑATA


BEST USE: Consider this an all-purpose winner. I especially like it fresh or insavory preparations, such as Pork and Apple Pie on page 129 or DuckPanzanellawithApplesandThymeonpage138.Itdoesn’tbrownwhensliced—agreatchoiceforsalads.

ORIGIN:Amodern cultivar from three traditional apples:Cox’sOrangePippin,Duchess of Oldenburg, and Golden Delicious. First developed in Dresden,Germany, and sold under the namesPinova andSonata, itwas brought to theU.S.byStemiltGrowersofWenatchee,Washingtonin2004.

AVAILABILITY:StemilthastheexclusiveU.S.licenseforPiñataandthey’vebeenexpandingdistributiontocovermostofthecountry.YoucansometimesfinditundertheSonataorPinovanamesatfarmers’markets—afewU.S.growershadsecuredpermissionbeforeStemiltcamealong,and theycangrowtheappleaslongastheyusetheoriginalEuropeannames.

SEASON: Ripens in late September through mid-October, but sold through thespring.

APPEARANCE: Medium to large in size with rosy-red stripes over an orangebackground.

TASTE:Vibrant,aromatic,andtropicalinflavor.

TEXTURE: Exceedingly snappy and crisp with an exciting effervescence to thejuice.

PINKLADY(alsoknownasCrippsPink)


BESTUSE:It’sdeliciouswhenfresh,butthePinkLady,alongwiththeJazz,isoneofmytwofavoriteapplesforbaking.Itkeepsitsshapeandpinkcolor,andithasjusttherightblendofsweetnessandacidity.

ORIGIN:AcrossbetweenGoldenDeliciousandLadyWilliams,thiscultivarwasdeveloped in the 1970s by JohnCripps of theDepartment ofAgriculture andFoodofwesternAustralia. “PinkLady” is actually just thebrandnameof theCrippsPink.

AVAILABILITY: In the past five years, this variety has become a supermarketstandardacrossthecountry.

SEASON: Mid-October for Northern Hemisphere apples; April for Southern.Eitherway,thefruitkeepswellformonths,sothisisafullyyear-roundapple.

APPEARANCE:Thismedium-tolarge-sizeapplehasshiny,rose-coloredskinandcreamywhiteflesh.

TASTE:NotasnoteworthyasthePiñataorJazz,andslightlymoretartthanboth,butitstillhasanicesweet/acidbalanceandsubtlestrawberryandpearnotes.

TEXTURE:Fine-grainedandfirm.

PINKPEARL

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.(Uncutapplephotoonpage279.)

BESTUSE:Ifyou’reluckyenoughtogetyourhandsonone,eatitfreshfirst,justto enjoy thosevividberry flavors. It doesholdupwell in cooking, though.Agood place to start is by substituting this apple for the Gravenstein in theGravensteinApple-RaspberryTartonpage205.

ORIGIN: One of the remarkable pink-fleshed apples developed by a CalifornianurserymannamedAlbertEtterinHumboldtCounty,northofMendocino.Itisthe resultofa1944crossbetweena red-fleshedGermanapplecalledSurpriseandanunknownvariety.Red-fleshedapplesarenotuncommon inEuropeandmaybe theresultofa long-agocrossbetweenanativecrabappleandasweetdomesticapple.

AVAILABILITY:ItisstillmostwidelygrowninNorthernCalifornia.Youcanorderit by mail from Kiyokawa Family Orchards in Parkdale, Oregon(mthoodfruit.com).I’vealsoseenitgrownatorchardsinNewYork,Indiana,andMassachusetts.

SEASON:EarlyAugustuntilmid-September.This isnotagoodkeeper, soonceit’sgone,it’sgone.

APPEARANCE: Very homely on the outside, with dull yellow-brown, faintlyblushing skin and a ridged conical shape. Inside, it’s positively vampy, withPepto-pinkflesh.

TASTE:Likelemoncustardtoppedwithraspberries.

TEXTURE:Firm,coarseflesh;moderatelyjuicy.

POMMEGRIS(alsoknownasPommeGrise)


BESTUSE:Thissmallappleisbesteatenfresh.

ORIGIN: This fruit was likely brought from France or Switzerland to the St.LawrencevalleyofQuebec.Itisverysimilar,ifnotidentical,totheOldWorldReinetteGriseapple,whichdatesbacktoLouisXIV’stime.

AVAILABILITY:ThisappleismostpopularineasternCanadabutcanalsobefoundatheirloomorchardsintheeasternUnitedStates.

SEASON:Harvestgenerally runs throughSeptember,and theappledoesn’tkeepmuchbeyondOctober.

APPEARANCE:Thismarkedlyoblateapple ispetite,gauzy,andheavily russeted,oftenwithanorangeblush.

TASTE:Sweet-tartandnutty,withpearandvanillaaromas.

TEXTURE:Thefleshiscreamyandtender,thoughitcanseemquitefirmwhenit’sfreshoffthetree.

REINEDESREINETTE(alsoknownasKingofthePippins)


BESTUSE:Apopularcookingandciderapple inFrance, this isagoodmixer inpies, tarts, and cakes (try it in the Apple Clafoutis on page 237), and a nicechoiceforeatingfresh.

ORIGIN: The history is uncertain, but this variety most likely originated inHollandorFranceinthelate1700s.

AVAILABILITY: This isn’t an easy apple to find in the United States. Farmers’marketsandantiqueapplefarmsarethemostlikelysources.

SEASON: Harvest generally runs from mid-September to mid-October, and theapples can be stored with good results into December and sometimes evenJanuary.

APPEARANCE:Ayellow-greenrussetedappleoftenwashedbrightred, theReinedesReinetteismediuminsizeandoblate-to-conicalinshape.

TASTE:Sweet-tart,nutty,withacleanappleflavorandmoderatetannins.Itgrowssweeterinstorage.

TEXTURE: Its primary characteristic is its fine-grained, crisp, and juicy flesh. Itfeelsquitefirminthehand.

RHODEISLANDGREENING

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:RhodeIslandGreeningmakessuchagreatpieapple.Youcancookittoyourheart’scontentandknowitwillholditsshape.Plus,ithasmorevibrantflavorthantheGrannySmith.Italsomakesatastysauce.

ORIGIN:Believedtohavefirstgrownfromseedin themid-seventeenthcentury,probablynearNewport,RhodeIsland,whereaMr.Greenowneda tavernnearGreen’sEnd.

AVAILABILITY:OneofthetartgreenapplessupplantedbytheGrannySmith,thisunsungbeautywaswidelyavailableontheEastCoastthroughthe1960s.Today,yourbestbetisapick-your-ownorchardinNewYorkorNewEngland.

SEASON:Mid-Octoberispeakharvest time,butthisgoodkeeperwillstorewellintothewinter.

APPEARANCE:Large,nicelyround,andsometimesrusseted,withgreentoyellow-greenskin,andyellowishflesh.

TASTE: Tartness and vegetal notes are the primary flavors here, with a hint ofgreengrapeandlemon.

TEXTURE:Thefleshisdenseandsolid,butpleasinglyjuicyandtenderonceyoubitein.

RIBSTONPIPPIN

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:InEngland,thisisaverypopularcideranddessertapple;however,thefleshisfirmanddenseenoughtoholditsshapeinpies,crisps,cobblers,andthelike.

ORIGIN:Anearlyeighteenth-centuryBritishapple,raisedfromseedbySirHenryGoodrickeatRibstonHallnearKnaresboroughinYorkshire.ItisalikelyparentofCox’sOrangePippin.

AVAILABILITY:The tree isadaptable toa rangeofclimates,butseems tohavealargerfollowingontheEastCoast.Lookforitatfarmers’markets.

SEASON: Ripens in late September and October, achieves peak flavor byNovember,butdoesn’tkeepmuchbeyondJanuary.

APPEARANCE:Generallymedium in size,with an oblate shape and yellow-goldskinaccentedwithdullredstripesandsomerussetedpatches.

TASTE:Quitetartandcitrusy(ithashighlevelsofVitaminC),withmuskyandpearlikenotes.

TEXTURE:Verycrispandjuicy,withfleshthatyieldsnicelywhenbitten.

ROME(alsoknownasRomeBeauty)

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:Thisfruit’sabilitytostayfirmwhencookedmakesitabaker’sfriend.Itsflavorisn’tasexcitingas,say,theNorthernSpyorEsopusSpitzenburg,butit’s a good, versatile performer, especiallywhenmixedwith other varieties inpiesandcrisps.

ORIGIN:NamedforRomeTownshipinOhio,whereitwasfirstdiscoveredinthe1820s, the first apples sprouted off a tree that was supposed to serve asrootstock.Insteaditproducedwinningfruitofitsown.

AVAILABILITY:Aformersupermarketstaple,thisapplecanstillbefoundinmanylargesupermarketsandWholeFoodsstoresacrossthecountry,aswellasmanyfarmstands.

SEASON:Depending onwhere it’s grown, it ripens late September through lateOctober and keeps through early winter. Beware of soft apples; chances arethey’remealy.

APPEARANCE: Red and glossy like a sports car, the Rome has thick skin andgreenishflesh.

TASTE:Moderately tart, and not terribly nuanced, but the flavor improveswithcooking,whichbringsoutflowerynotes.

TEXTURE: Drier thanmany apples in this category, this is not a great pick foreatingfresh.

ROXBURYRUSSET

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:Thisisreallyabakingapplemorethanasnackingone.LiketheRhodeIslandGreening,thisotherNewEnglandnativeisterrificinpies,tarts,andotherrichpastries inwhich thefruit’saciditycanbalance therichnessof thebutterycrust.

ORIGIN:OneofAmerica’soldestapples,thisvarietygrewfromseedinRoxbury,Massachusetts,intheearly1600s.

AVAILABILITY:TheRoxburylikesagoodchill,soitstickstonorthernclimes.Itshumble looks have mostly limited its popularity to its home region of NewEngland.

SEASON:Treesgenerallyripeninmid-October,butthefruitcankeepwellintothewinter,evenretainingabitofcrispness.

APPEARANCE:Notmuchofalooker,thismedium-sizedappleisheavilyrusseted,withthickskinandyellow-greenflesh.

TASTE:Quitetart,butwitharichsweetness,likelemonademadewithhoneyandservedwithapineapplegarnish.

TEXTURE:Crisp,dense,andrathercoarse,thisfruitcanstillretainsomesnapafter

amonthortwoofstorage.

SIERRABEAUTY

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:Because this fruit comes into season later than other varieties, it’s apopularchoiceforThanksgivingandChristmaspiesandpreserves.Italsomakesa delicious baked apple, and ismy favorite pick for theTennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandAppleonpage132.

ORIGIN:ANorthernCalifornia native, the SierraBeautywas discovered in theSierra Nevada mountains in the 1890s—grown, as one theory goes, from anapple seed discarded by aGoldRushminer. It is now a favorite apple in theAndersonValleyarea.

AVAILABILITY: Sold at farmstands and farmers’markets inNorthern California,the apple is versatile and hardy enough that I wouldn’t be surprised to see itspreadtotheotherwesternapple-growingregions.

SEASON:RipensaroundlateOctober.

APPEARANCE: A large apple with a somewhat square shape and yellow skin.Applesgrowninfullsundevelopabrightredblush.

TASTE:Complexandtart-sweetwithlotsofflowerandspice,plusahintofgreenpepper.

TEXTURE: Fine-grained and juicy,with a firmness that suggests a good bakingapple(itis).

SPENCER


BESTUSE:Spencerispleasantlysweet,butlacksthespicyflavorsofitsMcIntoshparent,soIusethisasafresheatingappleratherthanacooker.

ORIGIN: This McIntosh–Golden Delicious cross was developed in 1926 at theBritish Columbia Experimental Station in Summerland and releasedcommerciallyin1959.

AVAILABILITY:Lookforitatfarmstandsandfarmers’marketsontheWestCoast.Ihavealsofounditata feworchards inNewEnglandandVirginiaandat theUnionSquareGreenmarketinManhattan.

SEASON: Harvest generally happens between late September and mid-October.TheSpencerisconsideredagoodkeeper,soyou’lllikelyseeitsoldthroughtheholidays.

APPEARANCE:Insizeandshape,SpencerresemblesitsGoldenDeliciousparent,being medium-large and generally conical. The skin can be pale green toyellowishwithorange-redstreaksora full redblush,dependingonhowmuchsunitreceives.

TASTE:Exactlylikeyou’dexpectaMac–GoldenDeliciouscrosstotaste:sweet,notterriblycomplex,butmildlyspicyandvinous.

TEXTURE: The flesh tends to be on the softer side, though it has some nicecrispnesswhenfresh.

SPIGOLD


BESTUSE:This complex, sweet-tart apple ismost commonly eaten fresh, but itbakesandcookswell.IliketouseitintheSpicedApple-CranberryCompoteonpage 236 because the apple’s herbal/floral notes playwell off the vanilla andcinnamonintherecipe.

ORIGIN:AnothergraduateoftheAgriculturalExperimentStationinGeneva,NewYork,classof1962.Asitsnameindicates,it’sacrossbetweenNorthernSpyandGoldenDelicious.

AVAILABILITY:TheSpigoldneedsgoodsun,butcanbegrowninbothwarmerandcooler climates, so look for it at your local farmers’market or pick-your-ownorchard.

SEASON:LateSeptember tomid-October.With proper storage, it cankeep intoearlywinter.

APPEARANCE:Large,golden,round-to-oblatefruitwithadeepredblushandsomerusseting.

TASTE: Interesting herbal and floral flavors and aromas remind me of orangeblossom water, but the sweetness is backed up by the acidity from its Spyparentage.

TEXTURE:TheSpigoldshouldbefine-grainedandfirm,butquicktodissolvein

themouth.

STAYMANWINESAP(alsoknownas“Stayman”)

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BESTUSE:Apopularfruitforcider,theStaymanisalsoaverygoodbaker.

ORIGIN:ThischanceseedlingfromaWinesap treewasraised in themid-1800sbyDr. J.StaymanofLeavenworth,Kansas. Itwas introducedcommercially in1895andsoonbecameafavoritedessertapple.

AVAILABILITY:PrefersamilderclimateandisverypopularinVirginiaandotherapple-growing states in themiddle latitudes, aswell as inAustralia, Italy, andFrance.Lookforitatfarmers’markets,pick-your-ownorchards,andfarmstands.

SEASON:LateSeptemberthroughOctober.Storesthroughthewinter.

APPEARANCE:Mediumtolargeinsizeandround,withagreen-goldbasethatisgenerously overlaid with deep red blushing and stripes and dotted with palelenticels(essentially“pores”ontheapple’sskin,whichappearaslittlespots).

TASTE:Verytart,withanalmostwinelikeflavortypicaloftheWinesapandsomespicenotesatthefinish.

TEXTURE:Veryfirm,evenabitheavy,andcrisp.

SUNCRISP

CATEGORY:Firm-tart.

BEST USE: Most Suncrisps are simply eaten fresh, but the flesh does keep itsshapeincooking.

ORIGIN: Developed byDr. FredHough at the Rutgers University HorticulturalResearch Farm, the Suncrisp is a cultivar of Golden Delicious mixed withCortlandandCox’sOrangePippinandwasintroducedcommerciallyin1994.

AVAILABILITY:ParticularlypopularinMidwesternandMid-Atlanticstates,thoughI’malsoseeingitinmoreNewEnglandorchards.

SEASON:RipensinOctober,butkeepswellintoJanuary.

APPEARANCE:Thisapple isn’texactlyabeauty,whichisprobablywhyithasn’tfoundthecommercialsuccessof,say,thePinkLadyandJazz.Instead,it’slarge,conical,andyellow-green,withadullorangeblushonitsthinskin.

TASTE:Spicylemon-limenoteslivenupthismuncher.

TEXTURE:Freshfruitisfine-grained,juicy,andcrisp.

SWEETANGO


BESTUSE:TheSweeTangodoesholdupwellincooking,butgivenitsincrediblecrunchandjuice,it’sbestenjoyedfresh.Plus,atabout$1perapple,itmakesanexpensivedessert.

ORIGIN:Thinkofthisappleasthe“ItGirl”oftheappleworld.DevelopedattheUniversity of Minnesota in the 1990s, it’s a cross between Zestar andHoneycrisp,andwasbredtomeetthedemandforcrisp,juicy,sweet-tartappleswithcomplexflavor.Itfirsthitstoreshelvesinthefallof2009.

AVAILABILITY: Now grown in select orchards in Washington, Minnesota,Wisconsin, New York, Quebec, and Nova Scotia, the fruit is gradually beingdistributedatsupermarketsacrossthecountry.Likemanypopularvarieties,theSweeTangoisgrownonlyonfarmslicensedbytheUniversityofMinnesota,sodon’texpecttoseeitatyourlocalfarmers’market.Youcan,however,findalistofgrowersatsweetango.com.

SEASON: This early season fruit ripens late August through mid-September—unusualforanorthernapple.

APPEARANCE:Medium-large to largeandconical,withanample rosy-redblushoverapaleyellowbackground.

TASTE:Withconcentratedfruitandspiceflavors,it’sreminiscentofspicedapplecider,anddecidedlymorecomplexthantheHoneycrisp.

TEXTURE:Crispandsnappy,withanexplosivejuiciness.

WESTFIELDSEEK-NO-FURTHER


BEST USE: Eat this flavorful apple fresh off the tree or cooked down inapplesauce.

ORIGIN: A late eighteenth-century native of Westfield, Massachusetts, a smalltown along the Connecticut River, it’s also known simply as the Seek-No-Further.

AVAILABILITY:ThisvarietyoncedominatedMassachusetts.Todayyoucanfinditat some pick-your-own farms on the East Coast, as well as inMichigan andMinnesota.

SEASON:RipensinSeptemberandOctober;storesthroughDecember.

APPEARANCE:Nobeautyqueen, thisapple ismedium-sizedandcreamyyellow-greenwithredstripingandsomerusseting.

TASTE: Tangy and a bit astringent, but very aromatic,with complex flavors ofpear,lemon,andvanilla.

TEXTURE: This apple has an unusual creamy mouthfeel, even though it’s stillcrispandjuicy,andabitcoarseintexture.

WINTERBANANA


BESTUSE:WhiletheWinterBanana’sfleshisdenseandfirmandholdsupwellinbaking,theflavorissosubtlethatit’sbestuseisreallyout-of-handeating.Ifyouuseitinbakeddesserts,combineitwithanother,moreintenselyflavoredvariety,suchasGingerGoldorGrimesGolden.

ORIGIN: Discovered as a chance seedling on the farm of David Flory, CassCounty,Indiana,in1876.Itwasintroducedcommerciallyin1890.

AVAILABILITY: This variety is popular in warmer climates because it doesn’trequireanextendedperiodofcoldweatherinordertoproduceblooms,butitisgrownaroundthecountry.Lookforitatfarmstandsandfarmers’markets.

SEASON: A late ripening variety, it’s ready to be picked around mid- to lateOctoberanddoesn’tkeepmuchbeyondDecember.

APPEARANCE: Very pretty: medium-sized with a roundish conical shape, waxydeep-yellowskin,andarose-redblush.

TASTE:Thenamecomesfromareportedbanana-likeflavor.IthinkI’vepickeditup, but it’s hard to deny the power of suggestion. Either way, the sweet-tartbalanceisrefreshing.

TEXTURE:Firm,abitcoarse,andjuicy.

ZABERGAUREINETTE


BEST USE: Itsmild flavor can get lost in pies or other baked desserts, but thisappledoesholditsshape.Mostpeopleprefersimplyeatingitfresh.

ORIGIN:ThischanceseedlingwasdiscoveredinGermany’sZaberRiverregionin1885.

AVAILABILITY:Thisisanotherrarity,atleastintheUnitedStates.Ihaveboughtitfrom Scott Farm in Dummerston, Vermont, and have seen it sold by VintageVirginiaApplesinNorthGarden,Virginia.

SEASON: Ripens September to October, depending on the latitude where it’sgrown.Itwillkeepforseveralmonthsinstorage.

APPEARANCE:Somecomparethisappletoapotato,thankstoitsheavilyrussetedskinandsometimesconicalshape.

TASTE:Quite sweetoff the tree, it tends togrowsweeter in storage.True to itsrussetedskin,ithasadistinctnuttyflavor.

TEXTURE:Itfeelsverysolidinthehand.Thefleshisfine-grainedandfirm,andfairlyjuicywhenit’sfresh.

HOWTOTELLIFANAPPLEISFRESH

The best way to know if you’re getting a fresh, ripeapplewithoutbitingintoitistobuyitatafarmstand,orchard,orfarmers’market.There,youcanaskthegrowerwhenthefruitwaspicked.Shortofthat,youcanbuyfruitmarked“local”atthesupermarketandbereasonablysurethatthefruitisfresh.

Lookingatanapple,feelingitforfirmness,isn’tasurefirewaytodetermineifthefruitisripeandjust-picked.Why?Forone,colordoesn’tindicateripenessin all apple varieties. Also, apple growers and researchers haveways to keepapplesfirmandcrispforlongperiodsoftime,thankstocontrolledatmospherestorage,knownindustry-wideas“CA.”Thisinvolveskeepingapplesinalarge,refrigerated roominwhich levelsofoxygen,carbondioxide,andhumidityaretightlycontrolled.Innormalconditions,asapplesripentheytakeinoxygenandreleasecarbondioxideandindoingsoconverttheirstarchestosugar.Limitingthesupplyofoxygenputsthefruitinastateofsuspendedanimation.OnlywhenitcomesoutofCAdoesit“wakeup”andfinishripening.

CAhas been around sinceWorldWar II.Many growers and packers havenow added a technology called SmartFresh, a synthetic gas (1-methylcyclopropene) that blocks the effects of the fruit’s ripening hormone,ethylene.With SmartFresh, apples can stay crisp and tart for months, even ayear. Long storage comes at a cost, though. Treatment with 1-MCP tends toblockthedevelopmentofflavorcompounds,calledesters,thatgiveapplestheirricharomasandcomplexflavors.Thefruits recoversomewhatwhentakenoutofstorage,buttheyusuallylackthevibrancyoffresh-picked.

WHYARESOMEAPPLESSHINYANDOTHERSNOT?Applesproduceanaturalwaxcoatingthatprotectsthefruitfromdryingoutanddefends it againstmold and disease. If you buy your apples at farm stands orfarmers’ markets, you’ve probably noticed the wax, which gives the fruit acloudyappearance.

Incontrast,supermarketapplesareusuallyextremelyshiny.Whenapplesareprocessed in commercial packing houses, they’re scrubbed to remove dirt andchemicalresidues.Thisstripstheskinofmuchofitsnaturalwax.Packersthenspray the fruit with protective coatings like carnauba wax or shellac. ThesecoatingsareregulatedbytheFDAandrecognizedassafeforconsumption.Butsome consumers worry that coatings trap pesticide residue or may containemulsifyingagentssuchasmorpholine.Ifyouhaveanyconcernsaboutwaxedfruit,yourbestbetistopurchaseyourapplesatthesource.

DOAPPLESEXPRESSTERROIR?

Toput it simply,yes.TheFrenchviticultural termusedtodescribe how a vineyard’s location—the soil, the slope of the land, theneighboringplantings—contributestoawine’sflavorcancertainlybeappliedtoapples.Anapplegrowninaveryacidicsoilwilltastedifferentfromonegrowninbasicsoil.AsteephillsidelocationmightofferthewarmdaysandcoldnightsinwhichMcIntoshtreesthrive,whilealowlandmeadowlocationmayproducetreeswithunexceptionalfruit.

However,thewholeconceptofterroirisaslipperyone.Someuseittoreferonly to effects of the soil and the landscape.Others include climatic variablessuchastemperature,sunshine,andrainfall.

So let me offer a broader, more complete statement: Geography mostcertainlyaffects flavor.Talk toanyGravensteingrower inSonoma,California,and he’ll explain how the region’s loamy soil, seasonal rain, and sun allcontribute to his fruit’s sweet flavor profile. The northeastern Gravenstein, incontrast, ismoretart.TheeasternGravcankeeplongerinstorage,whereasitswestern siblings, with their more fully converted sugars, must be consumedwithin a few weeks of harvest. Meanwhile, a Minnesota Honeycrisp growermightadamantlydefendherstate’sacidicsoilsandcoolertemperatures,arguingthat they produce brighter, tarter, better structured fruit than the HoneycrispgrowninWashington.

“It’shardtosortoutterroirfromclimate,orfromwhatthegrowingseasonislike that year,” says BenWatson, theNewHampshire–based author ofCider,HardandSweet,andanotedappleexpertwhohostsvarietaltastingsaroundthe

countrythroughSlowFoodUSA.“Ibuyapplesyearafteryearfromnotonlythesameregionsbutthesameorchardists,andI’llstillnoticedifferences.”

Somanythingsaffecttheflavorofanapple,fromthemineralcontentofthesoil to the amount of rainfall mid-season, to early frosts at harvest time, it’sseemsamiraclethatsomuchconsistentlywonderfulfruitisavailableeachyear.But despite all the variations, at the end of the day a McIntosh is stillrecognizableasitself,nomatterwhereorhowit’sgrown.“Thevarietytendstoshinethrough,”Watsonsays.

CHAPTERTHREE

COOKINGTIPSANDPANTRYNOTES

Baldwin

First,apeptalk:Excellent,from-scratch,homecookingisreallyjustamatterofunderstandingafewkeyprinciples,learningsometechniques,andusinggoodingredientsandtherighttools.See?Easy.Restaurantcooking is anothermatter—there’sa reasonwhypeoplego toculinary school.But we’re not talking about high-concept French cuisine here. We’re talkingaboutgreatapplepie.

Let’s get you started on the basics. The following pages will tell youeverythingyouneedtoknowinordertocooktherecipesinthisbook—howtokeepapplesfrombrowning,howtoproperlymixacake,andwhatsortofbutterandapplepeelertobuy.

TipsandTechniques

HOWTOPEELANDCOREANAPPLE

Preparingapplesforcookingcanbequickworkifyouusethismethod.Infact,Iused to try topeelperfectunbrokenspiralsuntil I realized Iwaswasting timeandtiringmyhandsforaminorthrill.Thiswayismuchbetter.

1. Lineyourapplecorerupsothatit’scenteredaroundthestem.Pushdownthroughthefleshuntilyoucomeouttheotherside.Removeanddiscardthecore.

2. Useyourpeelertoremovetheskinaroundthetopoftheappleinacircle,leavingthesidesintact.Likewise,peelaroundthebottom.

3. Nowuseyourpeelertoremovetheskinfromthesidesinatop-to-bottommotion,turningthefruitasyougo.

HOWTOSLICEANUNCOREDAPPLEInmanyrecipes,Iaskyoutopeel,core,andsliceapplestoaneventhickness.This guarantees that everything cooks evenly, and that your pie slices look asgoodas they taste.But forhomierdesserts, like thecrisps,buckle,pandowdy,andbetty,it’sfinetosimplypeelandslicetheapple,withouttakingoutthecorefirst.Toslice:

1. Settheappleonacuttingboard,stemendup.2. Ifyou’reright-handed,startfromtherightside;ifleft-handed,startfrom

theleft.Cuttheappleinto¼-inch-thickslicesonthatfirstside,workingdownfromthetop(mostlargerapplesallowthreeslicesperside).Turntheappleaquarter-turnandrepeat.Repeatthroughtwomoreturns.Thesliceswon’tbethesamewidth,buttheywillbethesamethickness,andthat’sallthatmatters.

HOWTOSLICEACOREDAPPLE1. Settheappleonacuttingboard,stemendup.2. Workingfromthetop,cuttheappleintoquarterslengthwise.3. Laythequarters,cutsidedown,ontheboardandcutintowedgesofeven

thickness.

HOWTODICEANAPPLEIt’s much easier to dice an apple that hasn’t been cored. Follow instructionsaboveforslicinganuncoredapple,then:

1. Stacktwoorthreeslicesofsimilarwidth.2. Cutthesliceslengthwiseinto¼-inch-widesticks.3. Cutstickscrosswiseinto¼-inchcubes.

HOWTOKEEPAPPLESFROMTURNINGBROWNMost apple cells contain iron-rich chemicals that oxidize (discolor) whenexposedtoair.Unlessyou’reworkingwithavarietythatresistsbrowningwhensliced(seepage30),you’llneedtosoaktheslicesinlemonwater(1tablespoonlemonjuiceper3cupswater)untilreadytoserve.Ifyourfruit isalreadyabitbrown, soaking it in the same solutionwill remove someof the discoloration.Youcankeepthefruitintheliquidforuptofourhours.

HOWTOMEASUREINGREDIENTSThe ingredient lists for the recipes in this book are described by volumemeasurement (teaspoons, tablespoons, cups,milliliters, etc.) andbyweight (inounces and grams). For small measurements in tablespoons and teaspoons, Istickwithvolumes—whowantstoweighouthalfagramofgroundcinnamon?Butmanybakers feel thatmeasuring largervolumesof, say, flourorbutterbyweightismoreaccurate.

Tomeasurebyweight,you’llneedakitchenscale—Iuseadigitalmodel,butagoodanalogoneisfineforourpurposes.Set thebowlorcontainer inwhichyou’llbeweighingtheingredientonthescaleand“tare”thescalesoitisresetto0.Thatwayyouwon’tincludetheweightofthecontainerintheweightoftheingredient.(Seethemanufacturer’sinstructionsifyouneedmorehelpwiththis.)Addtheingredienttothecontaineruntilyoureachthedesiredamount.

To measure by volume, follow a few rules: Always use liquid measuringcups (the kind made of glass or clear plastic, with a lip and measurementspainted on the side) for liquid ingredients and graduatedmeasuring cups (thekind with handles, usually made of plastic or metal) for dry ingredients. Tomeasure flour, sugar, and other powders, use themeasuring cup to scoop thematerialoutofthecontainerorbag,thenuseaknifeorotherstraightutensiltoleveloffthetopsoit’sevenwiththeedge.

HOWTOMAKEPIECRUSTBYHANDI have experimentedwith everymethod under the sun, frommaking crusts infrozenbowlsusingfrozenbutter,tomixingtheminafoodprocessor,tocuttingin the fat with knives, forks, and pastry cutters. I’vemade crustswith butter,vegetableshortening,andacombinationofboth.I’veaddedvinegarandeggtomakethedoughmorepliant.Andintheend,Ihonestlybelievethebestpiecrustismadebyhandinabowlusingonlyflour,salt,chilledbutter,andicewater.Myhand-mixedcruststurnoutnicelyflakywithverylittlefuss,anddon’trequireasmuch water to bind them. Less water means less opportunity for glutendevelopment,whichensuresamoretenderproduct.IalsoappreciatenothavingtowashalltenthousandpartsofmyfoodprocessoreverytimeImakeapie.

The technique is simple:Whisk the flour and salt together.Cut the chilledbutter intosmallcubesandsprinkle themover theflourmixture.Alternatively,youcan justadda largechunkofbutter to thebowlanduseapastrycutter tobreakitdownintosmallpieces.Useyourhandstoworkthebutterintotheflourby rubbing your thumbs against your fingertips—just as if you’remaking theuniversal sign for “money.”Workquickly so the butter doesn’tmelt—if it’s averywarmday,youcanchilltheflourandthebowlinthefreezerfor15minutesbeforemixing—andstopwhenthemixture looksabit likecornmealand therearestillsomepea-sizedbitsofbutterinthemix(Ipromisethatafterafewtries,you’llgetmoreconfidentaboutknowingwhentostop).Addsomeicewater,stirwithafork,thenkneadafewtimes,pressthedoughintoadisk,andchillforatleast30minutes.That’sit—allyouneedtomakeaBlueRibbonpiecrust.

HOWTOMAKEPIECRUSTINAFOODPROCESSORWhileIprefertodomycrustsbyhand,Iknowtherearesomecookswhowouldratheruseafoodprocessor,andthat’sfine.Here’show:Putyourdryingredientsinthebowlandpulseuntilevenlycombined.Sprinklethecoldbuttercubesoverthe flour mixture and pulse several times until the mix resembles coarsecornmeal. Transfer the dough to a large bowl and sprinklewith the icewater.Mixwithaforkuntilthedoughcomestogether—ifitseemsdry,addmorewateras recommended in the recipe. Gather the dough into a ball and proceedaccordingtotherecipe.

HOWTOROLLOUTPIECRUST

It’snoteasy,rollingdelicatepastryintoaniceevencirclewhilekeepingitfromsticking to thecounter,and then transferring thewholebusiness toapieplate.Butitdoesn’thavetobevexing.Therighttechniquehelps.

For free-form rolling, you’llwant take a couple of precautions in order toprevent sticking:Coat theboardwith a thin, even sprinkling of flour;rotatethedoughaquarterturnaftereverycoupleofswipeswiththerollingpin;andkeepthedoughpliantbutcold(thisalsopreventsthebutterfrommeltingintothedough,which is important because it’s those little lumpsof buttermeltingandcreatingsteamintheheatoftheoventhatmakesthepastryflaky).

My favorite overall strategy is to roll the dough between sheets ofparchmentorwaxpaperorinapiecrustbag(availableinmultiplesizesfromkingarthurflour.com),bothofwhichtakecareofthestickingproblemanddon’trequiretheuseofextraflour(toomuchflourmakesadrycrust).Ifyou’rerollingthedoughtoaspecificwidth,youcanmarkthatwidthrightonthepaperor,ifusing thebag, simplychoose thebag thatmatchesyourdesiredwidthand rollthedough to theedges.Bothmethodssimplify thedreaded transfer—justpickupthepackage,peeloffthebottomsheet(orunzipthebag),andsetthedoughinthepan,thenpeeloffthetop.

Onelasttip:Toensureevennessandimproveyourchancesofendingupwithanicecircle,alwaysrolloutfromthecenter.

HOWTOMIXACAKEYou’llnoticethatmostofthecakerecipesinthisbookbeginbyaskingyoutobeatthebutterandsugartogetherforseveralminutes—upto10,insomecases.Don’tskimp—keepgoinguntilthemixtureispale,veryfluffy,andmousselike.There’sagoodreason:Foracaketohavesomeniceheightandgoodtexture,itneedslotsoflittleairbubblesinthebatter,whichthenexpandintheheatoftheoven.Beatingthebutterwiththesugarincorporateslotsofair.Iusethewhiskattachmentonmystandingmixer,justtomaximizeaeration.

HOWTOSTOREAPPLESAppleskeepbestwhenstoredincold,slightlyhumidconditions.Yourbestbetathome is toput the fruit inapaperbag rolledup tightoraplasticbag, looselytied,withsomeholespunchedinthesides.Stashinaproducedrawer.Howlongtheylastdependsentirelyonthevariety—someofthebestkeepersareGranny

Smith,Idared,NorthernSpy,RhodeIslandGreening,andNewtownPippin—butthistechniquewillholdmostapplesforatleasttwoweeks.

ONCOOKINGTIMESYou’ll notice that every recipe first lists visual cues (“Cook until goldenbrown”), then time estimates (“10 to 12 minutes”) for assessing when anyparticularstepiscomplete.Alwaysgobythevisualcue!Timescanvary,asmystovemaybequitedifferentfromyours.

IngredientNotes

APPLESInthe“AppleNotes”sectionofeachrecipe,Isuggestacoupleofapplevarietiesthat would work particularly well. However, some aren’t readily available inevery market. Always feel free to substitute a more common apple from thesame category, as listed on page 30. For example, if the recipe recommendsRoxburyRussets and all you have areGranny Smiths, that’s just fine.At thesametime,pleasedousethisbookasanexcusetoexperiment!Gotoyourlocalapple orchard or farmers’ market in season. Try new varieties within eachcategory.Ifyou’refeelingreallyadventurous,ordermoreexotictypesfromthecompaniesonpage282.

APPLESIZESANDEQUIVALENTSIngeneral,therecipesinthisbookaskforaspecificnumberoflargeormediumorsmallapples,aswellasanapproximateweight.Largeapplesaren’thard tofind at supermarkets, given the precision with which most growers sort theirfruit.Butifyouhavefruitdirectfromtheorchardorfarmers’market,youmayhavetomakeadjustments.

Onaverage,astandardAmericanlargeapple:• Stands2¾to3¼inchestall• Weighsabout8ounces,or227grams• Yieldsjustunder2cupsslicedordicedfruit

Amediumapple:• Standsabout2½inchestall• Weighsabout6ounces,or170grams• Yieldsabout1¼cupsslicedordicedfruit

Asmallapple:• Standsabout2½inchestall• Weighsabout4ounces,or113grams• Yieldsabout¾cupslicedordicedfruit

Ifabakedapplerecipecallsfor6largefruits,you’llwanttouse9mediumfruitsor12smallones.If therecipecallsforchoppedorslicedapples,usetheaboveestimatestodeterminehowmanyfruitsyouneed.

BUTTERMany pastry chefs eschew salted butter, arguing that the unsalted variety haspurer flavor and higher fat content,which is better for pie crust and pastry. Iagree,thoughIstillusesaltedbutterforsomecakes,muffins,andotherdisheswhen the fat content isn’t as critical. For brands, I recommend Kate’s (myfavorite,made inMaine),Strauss,Cabot,VermontButter&CheeseCreamery,andPlugrá.

BUTTERMILKIlovebakingwithit,andyou’llnoticethatitshowsupinmanyofthecakeandbiscuitrecipesinthisbook.Tome,buttermilkaddsalayerofflavorthatIcanonlydescribeasthepastryequivalentofumami—arichdeliciousness.Theacidinthemilkalsorelaxesgluten,makingdoughmoretender.Whilethismaynotbe a standard ingredient on your refrigerator shelf, it is sold at most everysupermarket.Low-fatbuttermilkisabetterchoiceforbakingthanfatfree,butifthelatterisyouronlyoption,youcanusetheminterchangably.Andifyoudon’thave any buttermilk at all, you can add a tablespoon of lemon juice orwhitewinevinegartoacupofmilk,letthatsitfor10minutes,anduseitinplaceofthebuttermilk.

FLOUR

Alltherecipesinthisbookcallforall-purposeflour(IlikeKingArthurbrand).

SALTI’m a fan of kosher salt. It’s easy to sprinkle and seems to have a slightly“cleaner”flavorthaniodized(table)salt.Forthisreasonmanydishesinthebookaremadewithkoshersalt,withtheexceptionofcakesandpastrieswheresiftingisrequiredorwherefiner-grainedtablesaltsimplyworksbetter.

Ifyoudon’thappentohaveanykoshersaltonhand,youcansubstitutetablesalt—justusehalftherecommendedamount.

ToolsoftheTrade

I’masuckerforinterestingkitchengadgets,andtheonlythingthatkeepsme incheck is thefinitecabinetspace inourkitchen.Therecipesinthisbookdon’trequiremuchinthewayofspecializedgear,butafewkeytoolscanmakequickworkoftherequisitepeeling,coring,slicing,zesting,rolling,andpureeing.

Note: I recommendmy favorite brands here based onmy own opinion—Ihavereceivednothinginthewayofcashorfreeequipment,notevenfromtheOXOCorporation,whoseproductsIrecommendfrequently.

APPLECORERWHY:Digsoutthecoreinonemotionwithminimallossofflesh(theapple’s,thatis—you’llbeunharmed).BRAND:OXOGoodGripsAppleCorer.Thelargehandleismucheasiertogrip.($7.95atcooking.com)

APPLEPEELERWHY:It’smucheasierthanaparingknife.BRAND: Some people prefer Y-shaped peelers, but I like OXO’s Good Gripsswivelpeeler.($7.95atcooking.com)

APPLEPEELER/CORERWHY:Thisold-fashionedtoolpeels,cores,andslicesapplesintouniform¼-inchrings,thuscuttingdownonpreptime.BRAND:BacktoBasicsApplePeeler-Corer.($28.00atwilliams-sonoma.com)

APPLESLICERWHY:Agreattoolforcuttingapplewedgesintoaneventhicknessforapplepie.BRAND: Dial-A-Slice Apple Divider lets you cut apples into eight or sixteenslices(½-or¼-inchwidths,respectively),whilealsoremovingthecore.($19.95atwilliams-sonoma.com)

BISCUITCUTTERWHY:Standard sizesensureconsistency, sharpedgesmakecleancuts.Youcanusethesmallestandlargestsizesinyoursettomakethedonutsonpage153.BRAND:RSVPInternational’sfour-pieceset.($8.95atamazon.com)

FOODMILLWHY:Makesquickworkofpureeingapplesauceandapplebutter.BRAND:Cuisipro’sstainlesssteelfoodmillistheindustrystandardforhomeuse.($89.95atcutleryandmore.com)

MANDOLINESLICERWHY: Allows you to slice fruits and vegetables into perfectly even, paper-thincuts.Fanciermodelsalsoallowyoutodoshoestrings,julienne,andwafflecuts.BRAND:Cadillacmodelswithallthewidgetscangoupto$400,butmyKyoceraceramicdouble-edgedmandolinedoesagreatjobslicingapplesandcucumbersforthepicklesonpage270($19.95atcooking.com)

MELONBALLERWHY: Allows you to scoop out apple cores for baked apples, while stillpreservingthebaseofthefruitsothefillingstaysin.BRAND:OXOGoodGripsMelonBaller.($8.99atcooking.com)

MICROPLANEWHY:Youmay have heard this a thousand times already, but there’s no betterwaytoremovezestfromalemon.BRAND:MicroplaneGrater/Zester.(about$12.00atamazon.com)

CHAPTERFOUR

SOUPSANDSTARTERS

Cortland

THEFRUITOFTHEFUTURE:

InsidetheCornellAppleBreedingProgram

OnthislateOctoberday, theair is thickwiththesweetscentofapplesinsideSusanBrown’sofficeatCornellUniversity’sNewYorkStateAgriculturalExperimentStation(NYSAES)inGeneva,NewYork.Applesareeverywhere:infruittraysandbrownpaperbagsinonecorneroftheroom,on the artwork and vintage fruit labels tacked to a bulletin board, in thephotographs of apple varieties that Brown has introduced in her work as ahorticultureprofessorandapplebreeder.Andinapileonthedeskinfrontofme,thereareseveraldozenapplesofeverysizeandcolor:tinyyellowandredcrabapples,purple-redapplesthatresembleplums,giantyellowandorangeglobes.

As a still life, it’s beautiful. As an illustration of apple genetics, it’sfascinating.Brown isexplaining thatmanyof these fruitswereproduced fromthesametwoparents,theproductofasinglecontrolledcrossmademanyyearsago.Brownfertilizedonetreeentirelywiththepollenofanother,firstremoving

themaleparts—thepollen-producingstalkscalledstamens—ofeach flowersothat the treehadnochanceofpollinating itself. (It’s rare forapples tobeself-fertilizing,butitdoeshappeninsomevarieties.)Thensheandherteambrushedpollenfromthechosen“father”ontothefemaleparts(thestigmas)ofthemothertreeandthosepollengrainstraveleddowntotheflower’sovarieswhere,astheblossoms swelled into fruit, they became seeds. Fifty of those seeds weresproutedandthenplantedinBrown’sresearchorchards,whichcoverfiftyacresofgentlyslopinglandafewmileswestofSenecaLake.Afterseveralyears,theseedlingsbecamefruit-bearingtrees.

“Manyoftheapplesherearefromthosefiftyseedlings,”Brownsays.Someresembletheparentsclearly,somenotatall.“Mygoalasanapplebreederisforthekidstobebetterthantheparents,”Brownsays.“Justlikeyouhopethatyourchildgetsyoureyesbutdoesn’tgetthesnortylaughfromyourhusband.”Sosheevaluates the fruits and looks for the ones with the best flavor, size, texture,appearance, storagepotential, anddisease resistance, amongother factors.Shedoesthisnotjustforthefruitsofthisparticularcross,butforallofthe5,000to10,000seedlingsthatsheplantseachyear.Theonesthatpassmusteraregraftedonto dwarf rootstocks and tested in a corner of the orchard reserved for theshiningstars.Iftheycontinuetodowellundertheseconditions,whichresemblethoseofmostmodernorchards,theywillbereleasedtogrowersworldwideandmarketedasthenextnewapple.EarliersuccessesproducedbytheNYSAESinits nearly 130-year history include Cortland, Empire, Jonagold, Jonamac, andMacoun.

It’shard to imagine thatmanyof the fruitsbeforemearesiblings,orevendistant cousins. But here they are, evidence of how many different traits arecoded in the apple’s approximately 56,000 genes (the human genome hassomewherebetween20,000and25,000genes),thesequenceofwhichwasonlyrecentlydecoded.“Thediversityyouseehereforcolorandshapeisalso therefor juiciness, acidity, sugar, the whole nine yards,” Brown says. “Mostconsumerswantcrisp,juicy,firmapples.SoI’mtryingtoupthecomponentsofallthosethings.Forexample,ifyoubuyanappleinthestoreandit’s12degreesbrix[aunitformeasuringthesugarconcentrationinafruit],you’regoingtolikeitmoreifit’s13degreesbrix.Wehavesomeapplesherethataretwentydegreesbrix. But then we have to try to balance that with acid.” Brown’s team hasproducedapplesthataresocrispanddenselypackedwithjuicycellsthatbitingintothemfeelsalmostlikepoppingawaterballoon.“Youcouldhavethatappleinyourcarforsixmonthsandit’snotgoingtogetmushyandmealy,”shesays.

OthershavebeenbredtocontainasmuchvitaminCasoranges,orhighlevelsofquercetin, a natural antioxidant that may have a role in protecting brain cellsfromAlzheimer’sdisease.

Inotherwords,Brownistryingtoimproveonwhatnaturewouldproduceonits own. Or, rather, she’s speeding up the process, both through classic plantbreeding experiments and through genetic engineering, in which individualgenesfor,say,resistancetofireblight,canbeinsertedintoappleswhileleavingalltheotherdesirabletraitsintact.Andnowthattheapple’sgeneticsequencehasbeenmappedout,scientistscanevendotraditionalbreedingmoreefficiently:Byanalyzingthegeneticmakeupofanewhybridandlookingforgenesassociatedwith red skin, high sugar content, and juiciness, they can have some sense ofwhatsortoffruitaseedlingwillproducelongbeforeitsfirstharvest.

Browndrivesmeouttoherorchards,andhereIcanseetheapple’svastgeneticpotentialdisplayedinallitsglory:rowsandrowsofgorgeous fruit inevery shade; some treesas tall asgiants,others just two feettall.Someofthefruithangsfromwidelysweepingbranches,someonboughsastall and straight as columns. These are the so-called columnar apples, whichBrownisbreedingforhomeapplegrowerswhomaynothavetheroomtogrowregulartrees,northeskillstoprunethemeachwinter.Inanotherarea,Brownisexperimentingwith a pear-apple cross that could yield a new hybridwith thebesttraitsofbothspecies.

Wemakeourwaydownseveralrows,tastingmealyblandapplesandrichlyflavoredsweet-tartones thatcould’vebeencontenders, ifonly theyweren’t soprone to bitter pit, a calciumdeficiency.Eventually these undesirableswill berippedouttomakeroomformoreseedlings.

Asweinspecteachtree,itoccurstomethatmostofmyresearchuptothispoint has biased me toward historic heirloom apple varieties with charmingnameslikeBlackGilliflowerorKeswickCodlin,andagainstnewer,seemingly“scientific” breeds like Gala and Fuji. Somehow, they just don’t seem asromantic as the fruit of the nineteenth-century pomological golden age. ButBrown’s work is proof that apples lose none of their beauty when they’reproducedwithmoderntechnology.

“Peopletalkaboutheirloomvarieties,”Brownsays,“butalotofthemaren’tthat good.Maybe they were suited to store well in a cellar, maybe they had

attributestosurviveinaparticularclimateorhandleroughtreatment,butalotofthe apples of that time were merely a source of cider.” From Brown’sperspective,aclassicMcIntoshmaymakeagreatapplesauce,butitstartflavorandsofttexturewouldnotpassmusterinhertestorchard.

Then there’s the quest for non-browning flesh. “McDonald’s became thebiggest purchaser of apples in the country once they introduced those AppleDippers[littlepacketsofapplesliceswithcaramelsauce]totheirmenu.”Brownsays. “They want apples with white flesh, so if we can create some that arenaturallynon-browning, that’sahugemarket.”Applebreedingisanexpensiveproposition—considerhowmuchlanditrequiresandhowlongittakestogetaproducttothemarket—andfindingwaystosubsidizetheresearchiskey.Evenonceanewvarietyhasbeenbredandselected,itcantakefifteentotwentyyearsforittogaincommercialacceptance.Soplantbreedersarefindingnewwaystopromotetheirfruit.TheUniversityofMinnesotaisaleaderinthisarea,havingused a sophisticatedmarketing campaign and social networking tools such asFacebook and Twitter to build demand for its Honeycrisp and SweetTangovarieties, while also charging steep fees to a select group of farmers for theprivilegeofgrowingthem.

Back at Brown’s office, she shows me what all thisinnovation is for: five new apples at various stages on their way torelease, all better thanmanyof the apples that I buyatmy local supermarket.Theonenearest to its commercial debut, calledNY1until someone comesupwithasnazziername,isexceptionalinitscrunchandsweet-tartjuice.It’sacrossbetween a Honeycrisp and another NYSAES apple called NY752 and hasHoneycrisp’s signature texture and floral flavors, but with some keyimprovements.“OnlyfortytofiftypercentofHoneycrispfruitcanbemarketed,”Brownnotes.“Theirstemstendtopunctureeachother,sosomegrowersclipthestems,whichaddstothecost.They’realsovulnerabletobitterpit.”NY1doesn’thavetheseproblems.

Anotherapplesoontobereleased,NY2,isdeepredandconicinshape.It’sso crunchy that the noise seems to echo when I bite into it, but I’m lessenamored of the flavor, which strikes me as vegetal. I’m more intrigued byNY118, which tastes of the spice star anise—a first forme in years of appletasting.

Butit’sonlywhenBrownhandsmeasampleofNY109thatIreallyfallinlove.It’sarounderapple,withcolorsthatrunfromred-orangetoyellowandalittlerussetingontheskin.Theflavorsaresocomplexthatit’shardformeevento identify them. I taste nut, spice, honey, lemon, andberry in a floodof tart-sweetjuice.Iwanttogoandraidtheentiretree.Brownsaysthattherussetingwillprobablybeaproblemformanyconsumers,whoseeitasadefect.Shemaylook for a way to develop a smoother-skinned version. But as far as I’mconcerned,thisappleisalittletasteofparadise.IaskherhowlongitwilltakebeforeIcanbuythisfruitinthesupermarket.“Realistically,years,”Brownsays.Improving onMotherNature takes time. And changing consumer preferencestakesevenlonger.

Bacon-WrappedDateswithCurriedAppleHash

ChefWillGilson serves thesedelectablehorsd’oeuvresat hisCambridge, Massachusetts, restaurant, Garden at the Cellar. Hecreatedthemforhisfallmenu,butfoundthatanyattemptstotakethemofftherosterduringthewarmweathermonthsweremetwithhowlsofoutrage.Andsotheyremain.Thegeniusliesincombiningdatesandbacon—oneofthebestofallfoodpairings—withasweet-savorymixofgratedapples,onion,andcurry.APPLENOTES:Thehashcallsforaverytartgreenapple,suchasGrannySmith,Rhode Island Greening, or Roxbury Russet. (See page 30 for more firm-tartapplevarieties.)NOTES:Applewood-smokedbaconisidealforthisdish,butanythick-cutbaconwill workwell.Medjool dates are available atmost supermarkets andWholeFoodsstores.EQUIPMENT: 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan; 12 toothpicks;mandoline(optional)

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME:35minutes•TOTALTIME:50minutes

FORTHEDATES

12slicesthick-cutbacon(seeNotes)¼cup(55g)freshgoatcheese1teaspoonfinelychoppedfreshrosemary

12Medjooldates,pitted(seeNotes)

FORTHEHASH

¼cup(60ml)extra-virginoliveoil½cup(70g)finelychoppedwhiteonion4 large firm-tart apples (about 2 pounds total; see Apple Notes) peeled,cored,andcutintomatchsticksusingaknifeormandoline

1tablespooncurrypowder2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshchives½teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

1 •Prep the dates: In the skillet, cook the bacon overmediumheat until justbeginningtobrownaroundtheedgesbutstillpinkandsoft,6to8minutes.Setaside.Inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthegoatcheeseandrosemary.

2•Preheattheovento400°F.Stuffabitofcheesemixtureintoeachdate,thenwrapeachonewithabaconsliceandsecurewithatoothpick.Setaside.

3•Makethehash:Heattheoilinamediumskilletovermediumheat,thenaddtheonionandcookuntiltranslucent,about5minutes.Addtheapplestothepanand cook until they are limp, about 5minutes.Add the curry powder, chives,salt,andpepper,thenstirandletsitoverlowheat.

4•Bakethedatesuntilthebaconisfullycooked,6to8minutes.Removethetoothpicks.Dividethehashamongsixplates,thentopwithdates,twoperplate.

ChickenLiverPâtéwithApple.Calvadosandasautéedappleimpartahintofsweetness.

ChickenLiverPâtéwithApple

Iadaptedthisrecipefromawonderfulchickenliverpâtéinthe1965cookbookMichaelField’sCookingSchool. Fieldwas a giftedfoodwriterandteacherwhoranacookingschoolinManhattaninthe1960s,andhehadawonderfulwayofmakingFrenchcookingseemcompletelyaccessibletohomecooks.Thisdishisaperfectexample.HischickenliverpâtéisassilkyasfoiegrasandtheapplesandCalvados(applebrandy)addaheadysweetness.

It’salsoquiteeasytomake.ServewithtoastedFrenchbread,walnuts,andfreshappleslices.APPLENOTES: This pâté should be as smooth as possible, so tender-tart apples,whichcookdowneasily (seepage30),arebest.McIntosh,Macoun, Jonathan,Empire—anyandallwouldbeverygoodhere.EQUIPMENT:12-to14-inchskilletorsautépan;electricblender;largefine-meshsieve;3-cupcrock,servingbowl,orterrineMAKE-AHEAD TIP: The pâté will keep, covered, for several days. You can alsofreezeitforuptothreemonths;letthawintherefrigerator.

MAKES:About3cups•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:45minutes,plus3½to4½hourscoolingandchillingtime

1pound(454g)freshorthawedfrozenchickenlivers16tablespoons(227g)unsaltedbutter,divided,atroomtemperature½cup(70g)finelychoppedonion2tablespoonsfinelychoppedshallots1small tender-tartapple(about4ounces;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,androughlychopped

¼cup(60ml)Calvados(applebrandy)orapplejack2to4tablespoonsheavycream1teaspoonlemonjuice1teaspoontablesalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

1 •Prepare thechicken livers:Rinse themquickly incoldwater, thenpatdryand cut in half. Set aside. In a skillet over medium heat, melt 3 tablespoonsbutter.Addonionsandshallotsandcook,stirringoften,untillightlygolden,5to7minutes.Add theappleandcookuntil tenderenough tomashwitha spoon,about5minutes.Transferthemixturetoablender.

2•Inthesameskilletovermedium-highheat,melt3tablespoonsmorebutter.Addthechickenliversandcook,stirringgently,untiltheyarebrownedoutsideand still pinkwithin (cut severalwitha sharpknife to check),3 to5minutes.RemovethepanfromtheheatandaddtheCalvadosorapplejack.Returntothe

heatandletsimmerfor1minutetoletthealcoholcookoff.Addthemixturetothe blender.Add 2 tablespoons of the cream to the blender and blend at highspeed until the mixture is very smooth. If it seems too thick, add additionalcream, one tablespoon at a time. When the mixture looks like velvet, pourthrough a sieve set over a bowl, using a spatula to push it through. Let coolcompletely to room temperature, about 30minutes. (Don’t skip this step; it’simportant.)

3•Puttheremainingbutterinthebowlofastandingmixer(orinalargebowlifusing a hand-heldmixer) andmix with the paddle attachment until it is verysmooth. Add ½ cup of the fully cooled liver mixture and beat until wellcombined.Repeatwiththeremaininglivermixture,½cupatatime,untilitisallincorporated.Addthelemonjuice,salt,andpepperandstirtocombine.Usingaspatula, pack the pâté into a serving dish or terrine, cover tightlywith plasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor3to4hoursuntilfirm.Servechilled.

Apple,Cheddar,andCaramelizedOnionPastryPuffs

Apples and caramelized onions are an unbeatablecombination,especiallywhenpairedwithCheddarcheese.Usingstore-bought puff pastry and cooking the onions ahead of time makes this a verysimpleappetizerthatyoucanassembleandbakerightbeforeyourparty.APPLE NOTES: Any firm-tart apples (see page 30) will work well here, but Iparticularly like themore aromatic varieties, such as Arkansas Black, EsopusSpitzenburg, Newtown Pippin, Northern Spy, Sierra Beauty, or StaymanWinesap.EQUIPMENT:12-inchskilletorsautépan;largerimlessbakingsheet

MAKES:About40puffs•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,10minutes

2tablespoons(28g)saltedbutter2largeyellowonions,slicedcrosswiseinto⅛-inch-thickrings1tablespoonfreshthymeleaves1teaspoonkoshersalt

6tablespoons(90ml)freshapplecider,divided1sheetgood-qualitystore-boughtpuffpastry,suchasDufour,keptcold1mediumfirm-tartapple(about6ounces;seeAppleNotes)unpeeled,coredandcutintoverythinslices

3cups(290g)finelygratedsharpCheddarcheese

1•Inaskilletorsautépanovermedium-lowheat,meltthebutter,thenaddtheonions, thyme,andsalt.Coverandcook,stirringoccasionally,until theonionsare translucent but do not change color, about 10minutes.Remove the cover,raisetheheattomedium,andpourin4tablespoonsofthecider,scrapingthepanwithawoodenspoontopickupanybrownedbits.Cookthisliquiddownuntilreduced to just a tablespoonor so, about 8minutes, then add the remaining2tablespoonsofcider,scrapingthebottomoncemore,andcookuntil theonionsaregoldenbrown,about10minutes.

2•Preheattheovento375°Fandsettherackinthesecond-to-lowestposition.Putthechilledpastryontheungreasedbakingsheetandrollouttoarectangleabout12by15inches.Ifthepastrybecomessoftorstickyduringthisprocess,putitinthefreezerfor10minutestochill.Usingasharpknifeorpizzacutter,cut the pastry in crisscrossing diagonal lines to form diamond-shaped pieces,eachabout3incheswideatthewidestpoint.Topthecenterofeachpiecewithan apple slice (trim to fit), a small pile of onions, and a sprinkling of cheese.Bakeuntilthecheeseismeltedandthepastryispuffedandgoldenbrown,30to35minutes.Transfertoawarmedplatterandserveimmediately.

AppleChipswithSpicedYogurtDip

Thiswhimsicalplayonchipsanddippacksalltheflavorofapplepie intoa light and healthy snack.You can also serve the dipwith fresh fruit, such as sliced apples, blackberries, strawberries, peaches, orbananas.

MAKES:2cups•ACTIVETIME:5minutes•TOTALTIME:5minutes

2cups(480ml)lowfat(2%)plainGreekyogurt

3to4tablespoonshoney1tablespoonplus1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice¾teaspoonvanillaextract1teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoongroundgingerTwolargebagscrispapplechips,suchasBareFruitbrand(seepage283)

Inamediumbowl,combine theyogurt,3 tablespoonsof thehoney, the lemonjuice,vanilla,cinnamon,andginger.Stir togetherandtaste;addmorehoneyifyouprefer.Transfertoabowlandserveonaplatterwithapplechips.

SweetPotato,Apple,andGingerSoup

I lovemakingpureedvegetable soups, becauseyou canproducesomethingquiterichandcozywithverylittleaddedfat.Thisoneisasuperlativewarmer,withgreatbody,abitofsweetness,andawarmhitofginger.APPLENOTES:Here’sararecase(atleastinthisbook)whereyoucoulduseprettymuch any apple variety and have this soup come out beautifully. However, asweeterappleisideal,soconsultthelistsoffirm-sweetandtender-sweetapplesonpage30.NOTE:Youcanadjusttheamountofgingertoyourtaste,dependingonwhetherornotyou likea lotof spice. Igenerallyusea1½-inch-longpiece that’sabitwider than my thumb, and the result is identifiably gingery, though notoverwhelminglyso.EQUIPMENT:4-to5-quartDutchovenorotherheavy-bottomedpot;largerimmedbakingsheet;immersionblenderorregularblender

MAKES:6cups•ACTIVETIME:30minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,10minutes

1poundsweetpotatoes(455g,about2),peeledandcutinto¾-inchcubes½pound(227g)baby-cutcarrots1 large apple (about 8 ounces; seeAppleNotes), unpeeled, cored and cutinto1-inchchunks

5tablespoons(75ml)oliveoil,divided

1½teaspoonskoshersalt,divided,plusmoretotaste½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,divided1mediumyellowonion,diced1-to2-inch-longpieceginger,peeledandcutintomediumchunks(seeNote)3garliccloves,coarselychopped1bayleaf4cups(945ml)reduced-sodiumchickenorvegetablebroth½cup(120ml)freshapplecider

1•Preheat theovento400°F.Inamediumbowl, toss thepotato,carrots,andapplewith3 tablespoonsof theoliveoil,1 teaspoonof thekoshersalt, and¼teaspoon of the pepper.Arrange on a foil-lined sheet pan (shiny side up) androastuntiltender,about30minutes.Setaside.

2 •Meanwhile, add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the pot and set overmedium-high heat. Add the onion, ginger, garlic, bay leaf, and remaining ½teaspoonsaltand¼teaspoonpepperandcookuntiltheonionsjustbegintoturngolden,8 to10minutes.Add theroastedvegetables,broth,andcider,stir,andbringtoasimmer.Reduceheattolow,cover,andsimmerfor30minutes.

3•Removethebayleaffromthepotanduseanimmersionblenderorregularblender topuree the soupuntil smooth. If usinga regularblender, process thesoupinthreebatchestoavoidsplatteringhot liquid.Returnthepureedsouptothepot,tasteforseasoning,andserve.

ChestnutSoupwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote

Ifyou’vetriedafewrecipesfromthisbookalready,youmay have noticed I’m fond of dishes that have sweet and savoryelements. This is a terrific example. The soup is nutty and creamy, and thecompote adds crunch and sweet contrast. Using pre-roasted, vacuum-packedchestnuts makes it all incredibly easy. And if you don’t want to prepare thecompote togowith it, thevariationbelow, toppedwithcrumbledbacon, is aneasyanddeliciousalternative.

APPLENOTES:Seepage30foralistoffirm-tartapples.Iparticularlylikegreen-skinnedvarieties,suchasGrannySmithorRhodeIslandGreeninghere.NOTE: Vacuum-packed roasted chestnuts are available at gourmet and WholeFoodsstores,andatmanygrocerystoresduringtheholidayseason.EQUIPMENT:4-to5-quartDutchovenorotherheavy-bottomedpot;largerimmedbakingsheet;immersionblenderorregularblender


2tablespoons(28g)saltedbutter1tablespoonoliveoil1largeredonion,coarselychopped1celerystalk,coarselychopped2mediumcarrots,peeledandcoarselychopped1 large firm-tart apple, (About 8 ounces; seeAppleNotes), peeled, cored,andcoarselychopped

2bayleaves1teaspoonkoshersalt4cups(945ml)low-sodiumchickenorvegetablebroth22-ouncejar(624g)vacuum-packedroastedchestnuts(seeNote)¼cup(60ml)heavycreamSpicedApple-CranberryCompote(page236)

1•Inapot,meltthebutterwiththeoliveoilovermediumheat.Addtheonion,celery,andcarrots,andcook,stirringoften,until theonionsaregoldenbrown,12 to15minutes.Addtheapple,bay leaves,andsalt,andcookfor3minutes,thenaddthebroth,scrapingthebottomofthepotwithawoodenspoontopickupbrownedbits.Addthechestnutsandcookuntilverytender,about15minutes.

2•Removethebayleaves,thenpureethesoupusinganimmersionblenderorprocessinbatchesinaregularblender(donotfillmorethanhalfway,toavoidtheriskofsplattering).Returnthepureedsouptothepot.Stirinthecreamandtasteforsalt;addmoreofeither,ifdesired.ServewarmwithagenerousdollopofAppleCompoteinthecenter.

Variation•ChestnutSoupwithBacon:InaDutchovenorotherlarge, heavy-bottomed pot, cook 4 slices bacon over medium heat until verycrispy.Setasidethebaconanddrainoffallbut3tablespoonsbacondrippings,then add 1 tablespoon olive oil and proceedwith step 1 as in original recipe.Servewithcrumbledbaconinsteadofcompote.

CHAPTERFIVE

VEGETABLEENTREES,SIDES,ANDSALADS

ZabergauReinette

THEGIFTOFGRAFT:

AVisittoRedAppleFarminPhillipston,Massachusetts

Red Apple Farm looks like a New England appleorchardoutofcentralcasting:countryroadlinedwithmaplesandstonewalls? Check. Rows of apple trees? Check. White farmhouse? Check. Redfarmstand stockedwith dumplings, apples, and jams?Check.Hay rides and apumpkinpatch?Yougotit.

But here’s something that you probably didn’t expect to see, over by thepicnicpavilionnearthefrontgate:acraggyoldtree,sagginginpartsandworseforthewear,butfestoonedwithtinyredfruitsonthisbough,andyellowonesupabove,andbigpinkglobesunderneath,and...wait,arethoseMcIntoshabovethat?

Why,yes.Andthosearecrabapples,andthat’saWinterBanana,andtheseare just a fewof the 108varieties growingon this single tree,which, back in1970whenitwasfirstplanted,wasjustaplainCortland.

Welcome to the magic of grafting. This tree, which serves no practicalpurpose other than attracting tourists, is a testament to Malus domestica’shospitality, allowinganynumberofcuttings to travel fromone tree toanotherandsetuphouse.

I’vetalkedaboutwhygraftingisnecessary—applesdon’treproducetruetoseed.Butit’salsointerestingtolearnabouthowit’sdone.AlRose,RedAppleFarm’s affable proprietor—the fourth generation of his family to farm appleshere—tookmethroughthesteps.

(Ishouldnotethathistechniqueisapopulartypeofgraftingcalleddormantwood grafting, which is done only during the cold weather months. There isanother type, called live wood grafting or budding, which can be performedduringthegrowingseason.Butbecausetheformertypeisthemostcommon,Ifocusonthathere.)

Youstartwithtwotrees.One,thebreedofchoice,ischosenforthequalityofitsfruit.Theother,calledtherootstock, ischosenforbeingwelladaptedto itssurroundings. Perhaps it’s able to resist a common disease in the area, or cantolerate hot or cold temperatures, or has strong roots that can reach a distantwater table. In any case, the rootstock is the solid, reliable foundation fromwhichthefruitvarietycanspringforth.

Inthewinter,whenthetreesliedormant,or,asAlputsit,“whenthejuicesaren’tflowing,”youcutbranchesfromyourfavoritefruittrees,andthesebecomethescions.Theymustbesmallandyoung,fromlastyear’sgrowth,andtheymustgointoacold,dark,moistspottoremaindormantuntilgraftingtime.

Inorderforthistypeofgrafttotake,youwantthescionandthehosttreetoessentiallywake up from their longwinter nap together. So decidingwhen toperform the graft come spring is a bit of an art. “There are specificwindowswhen the sap starts flowing,”Al says. “Aroundhere, its in lateMarch.That’syourcriticaltimewhenthegraftismorelikelytotake.Evenifyoudoitright,you’restillnotgoingtogetaonehundredpercentsuccessrate.”

Butyoucrossyourfingersandmakeacut intherootstockandamatchingcutinthescion,exposingtheliveinnerwood(thecambium)ofeachtotheotherandfittingthemtogetherlikepuzzlepieces.“Youcandoawedgecut,youcandoaz-cut,”Alsays.“It’sveryartistic.Everyonehastheirownpreferredway.”

Then you seal the graft, usingwax or tape, orwatertight compounds, andwait,firstforseveralweekstoseeifthescionlives,andthenforayearortwoto

learnhowitbearsfruit.“Ifallgoeswell,”Alsays,“what’sgrowingabovethegraftjointwillbeanexactreplicaoftheparenttree,anongoingcontinuationoftheoriginal.”Buttherearenoguarantees.Sometimesthescionsareinjuredbythecold, sometimes thegraftdriesoutor succumbs todisease.Sometimes thecambium tissues fail to line up exactly. As with everything related to applegrowing,graftingrequirespatience.Butifyoudoitright,yougetperfectfruit,reproducedadinfinitum.Andifyou’refeelingparticularlyadventurous,yougetaTechnicolor treesurroundedbydazzledschoolkidspointing to their favoritefruitrightupthere...no,there...oh,wait!Upthere...

EndiveSaladwithApples,Walnuts,andGorgonzola

Apple,walnuts,andGorgonzolaaresuchatried-and-truecombination: the fragrant cheese is like a little flavorbridgebetween thefruitandthetoastynuts.Addwalnutoilandcidervinegar tothemix,andyouhavesomelovelyharmony.APPLE NOTES: The Cheat Sheet on page 30 lists apple varieties that resistbrowning and are thus excellent for salads. Some examples: Cortland,GingerGold,Spigold,andFuji.NOTES: You can find walnut oil in most gourmet, natural, and Whole Foodsstores.Ifnecessary,youcansubstituteanyvarietyofoliveoil.Gorgonzoladolceis a popular Italian blue cheesemadewith cow’smilk and aged for just threemonths. This briefmaturation gives it a lighter flavor thanmost blues—dolcemeans“sweet”—andasofter,creamiertexture.EQUIPMENT:8-to12-inchheavy-bottomedskillet


FORTHEVINAIGRETTE

3tablespoonscidervinegar1tablespoonhoney½teaspoonkoshersalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2mediumshallots,minced½cup(120ml)walnutoil(seeNotes)oroliveoil

FORTHESALAD

¾cup(65g)walnuthalves,chopped5Belgianendive,endstrimmedandleavespulledoffandroughlychopped1 large salad-friendly apple (about 8 ounces, see Apple Notes), unpeeled,coredandcutinto⅛-inch-thickwedges

2ounces(57g)Gorgonzoladolce(seeNotes),brokenintosmallpieces

1 •Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl,whisk together the vinegar, honey,salt, and pepper until the salt dissolves. Add the shallots and let sit for 10minutes (this is a good time to toast yourwalnuts; see below).Drizzle in thewalnutoilinathinstream,whiskingasyougo.Setaside.

2 •Toast thewalnuts in a skillet overmedium-lowheat, stirringoccasionally,untilbrownandfragrant,about10minutes.Setoutfourchilledsaladplatesandarrange one-fourth of the endive on each. Top with apple slices, bits ofGorgonzola,andwalnuts.Serveimmediatelywiththevinaigretteontheside.

Autumn“Coleslaw”withDates,Apples,andPecans

This is the perfect fall potluck dish: simple, healthy,ample,andunexpected.Thetrickistoslicethecabbageverythinlysothatthedressingcansoftenitabit.Youwantthecabbagetobesilky,incontrasttothecrispapplesandcrunchynuts.APPLE NOTES: The Cheat Sheet on page 30 lists apple varieties that resistbrowning and are thus excellent for salads. Some examples: Cortland,GingerGold,Spigold,andFuji.NOTE:Togetthebestresults,useamandoline.Itproducespaper-thinribbonsofcabbage—theidealtexture.EQUIPMENT:8-to12-inchheavy-bottomedskillet;mandoline(optional)

MAKES:6to8servings•ACTIVETIME:40minutes•TOTALTIME:40minutes

FORTHESALAD

¾cup(80g)pecanhalves,chopped1smallhead(1.5poundsor680g)redcabbage,cored,withfirst2layersof

outerleavesremoved2 large salad-friendly apples (about 1 pound total; see Apple Notes),unpeeled,coredandcutintomatchsticks

¾cup(90g)choppedpitteddates⅓cup(11g)choppedfreshcilantro1largeshallot,thinlyslicedcrosswise

FORTHEDRESSING

¼cup(45ml)almondoiloroliveoil¼cup(45ml)lemonjuice2tablespoonshoney½teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

1 • In a skillet over medium-low heat, toast the pecans, stirring often, untilbrownedandfragrant,about10minutes.Setaside.

2•Quarter thecabbage lengthwise, then layeachsectionon itssideandslicewithamandoline,oruseaknifetoslicedownasthinlyaspossible,asifyou’reshavingthecabbage.Asyougettotheouteredgeofthequarter,feelfreetostop.Itgetstoodifficulttothinlycutatthatpoint.Youshouldhave8cupscabbage.Tossthecabbagewiththeapples,dates,cilantro,andshallot.

3•Inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheoil,lemonjuice,honey,salt,andpepper.Pouroverthesaladandtoss.Sprinklewithtoastedpecans.

Apple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad

Apple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad

This salad is inspired by my years in San Francisco,whereapples,persimmons,andpomegranateswereinseasoneachfall.Toa native New Englander, it was incredible that a person could have apomegranatetreeinherbackyard,letalonepersimmons,whicharearesobrightand pretty hanging from the branches—like little pumpkins. In this salad, thelighthoney-lemondressingcomplementsthebrightnessofthefruit.

APPLENOTES:Yourbestbetforthissweetersaladistochooseasweetervarietythatdoesn’tbrownwhensliced.GalaandFujiaregoodoptions,butconsultpage30foracompletelist.EQUIPMENT:8-to10-inchheavy-bottomedskillet


FORTHEDRESSING

¼cup(60ml)freshlysqueezedlemonjuice1tablespoonhoney½teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonsoliveorgrapeseedoil

FORTHESALAD

½cup(56g)shelledunsaltedpistachios8ounces(225g)babyarugula2 medium salad-friendly tender-sweet apples (about 12 ounces total; seeAppleNotes),unpeeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inch-thickslices

2ripeFuyupersimmons,cutinto¼-inch-thickslicesSeedsfrom1pomegranate(about1cupor155g)

1 • For the dressing: In a small bowl,whisk together the lemon juice, honey,salt, and pepper until the salt dissolves. Slowly drizzle in the oil,whisking asyougo,untilthemixtureisemulsified.Setaside.

2 • Inaskilletovermedium-lowheat, toast thepistachios,stirringoften,untilbrownedandfragrant,about10minutes.Setaside.

3•Setoutsixservingplates,preferablychilled.Dividethearugulaamongtheplates, then top each plate with equal portions of apples and persimmons.Sprinkleeachplatewithpistachiosandpomegranateseeds.Justbeforeserving,drizzlewithdressing.

ChickenWaldorfSalad

The original Waldorf Salad was the creation of OscarTschirky,thefirstmaîtred’hôteloftheWaldorfAstoriainNewYork.Inhis1896book,TheCookBookby‘OscaroftheWaldorf,’hegivesthefollowinginstructions:“Peeltworawapplesandcutthemintosmallpieces,sayabouthalfaninchsquare,alsocutsomecelerythesameway,andmixitwiththeapple.Beverycarefulnottoletanyseedsoftheapplesbemixedwithit.Thesaladmustbedressedwithagoodmayonnaise.”Overtheyears,walnutswereadded,thenraisins,andtheWaldorfbecameanAmericanclassic.Anapplecookbookisn’tcompletewithoutone,butI’veneverbeenafanoffruitinmayonnaise,orraisinsinsalads.SoIreplacedtheraisinswithredgrapesandtossedthemwithapplesandlettuceinasimplelemonvinaigrette.ThenImixedchicken,celery,andlotsoftoastedwalnutsinacreamydressingofGreekyogurtwithmayo,lemonjuice,tarragon, and onion. It’s like a chicken salad mixed in with a green saladcombinedwithafruitsalad.Andallthosepartscometogetherinafresher,moreflavorfulwhole.APPLENOTES:Page30notesapplevarietiesthatresistbrowningandarethusgoodfor salads. Some examples: Cortland, Ginger Gold, Spigold, Piñata, and Fuji.Anywouldgoverywellhere.NOTES:Ifyoudon’tliketarragon,youcansubstituteparsley,chervil,orchives.A1½poundrotisseriechickenwillgiveyouenoughmeatforthissalad.Ofcourse,youcanpoachyourownchickenbreasts,butthepre-cookedchickeniseasyandaffordable.EQUIPMENT:8-to12-inchheavy-bottomedskillet

MAKES:4servingsasalunchentree,6asasidedish•ACTIVETIME:30minutes•TOTALTIME:30minutes

FORTHEDRESSINGS

¼cup(60ml)freshlemonjuice,divided1tablespoonoliveoil½teaspoonkoshersalt,divided⅓cup(about3ouncesor100g)lowfat(2%)Greekyogurt2tablespoonsmayonnaise1tablespoonmincedfreshtarragon(seeNotes)1teaspoonhoney

½teaspoonfreshlygratedlemonzest¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2 tablespoons (about½ounceor18g)minced sweetonion, suchasWallaWallaorVidalia

FORTHESALAD

⅔cup(75g)walnutpieces½ pound (226 g) breast and/or thighmeat from a rotisserie chicken (seeNotes)

1½largecelerystalks(about4ouncesor113g),slicedcrosswiseverythinly6ouncesbutter(Boston)lettuce1cup(about6ouncesor175g)halvedseedlessredgrapes1mediumsalad-friendlyapple (about6ouncesor170g;seeAppleNotes)coredandcutintothinwedges

1 • First, make the dressings: In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoonlemonjuicewiththeoliveoiland¼teaspoonkoshersalt.Setaside.Inanothersmall bowl, stir together the yogurt, mayonnaise, tarragon, honey, remaininglemonjuice,lemonzest,remainingsalt,andpepper.Stirintheonion.Setasidewhileyoupreparethesalad.

2 •Toast thewalnuts in a skillet overmedium-lowheat, stirringoccasionally,until brown and fragrant, about 10minutes. Pour into amediumbowl and letcoolasyoupreparethechicken:Removeanyskinandtearthechickeninto2-to3-inchstrips.Addtothebowlwiththewalnuts.Addtheceleryandtheyogurtdressingandstirsothateverythingisevenlycovered.

3•Inaservingbowl,tossthelettuce,grapes,andapplesliceswiththelemon-oildressing.Spoonthechickenmixtureoverall.Useyourhandstolightlyflufftheleavesandgrapes,justtomakeitlookpretty.Serveonchilledsaladplates.

Spinach,Apple,PickledOnion,andBaconSaladwithCiderVinaigrette

Holdingtruetotheoldadagethateverythingtastesbetterwithbaconon it,wehave this simplecombinationofcrispbacon,apple,and pickled onion.Don’t be intimidated by the pickling: a quick (20minute)soakinvinegar,honey,andsaltjusttakesthepepperyedgeofftheonions,whilepreservingtheiressentialcrunch.APPLE NOTES: The Cheat Sheet on page 30 lists apple varieties that resistbrowning and are thus excellent for salads. Some examples: Cortland,GingerGold,Spigold,andFuji.EQUIPMENT:8-to10-inchheavy-bottomedskillet


FORTHEVINAIGRETTE

⅓cup(80ml)cidervinegar1tablespoonhoney½teaspoonkoshersalt½mediumredonion,cutcrosswiseintoverythinslices2teaspoonsDijonmustard1tablespoonoliveoil

FORTHESALAD

6slicesbacon5to6ounces(142to170g)babyspinachleaves1 large salad-friendly apple (about 8 ounces; see Apple Notes), unpeeled,cored,andcutinto⅛-inch-thickslices

1 • In a small bowl,whisk together the vinegar, honey, and salt until the saltdissolves.Addtheonionslicesandletsitwhileyoupreparetherestofthesalad,20to30minutes.

2•Meanwhile,inaskilletovermediumheat,cookthebaconuntilbrownandverycrisp,about10minutes.Crumbleandsetaside.Reserve2 tablespoonsofbacondrippingsinasmallbowl;discardtherest.

3 •Using tongs or a slotted spoon, remove the onion slices from the vinegar

mixtureandsetaside.Thenfinishthevinaigrette:Addthemustardtothevinegarmixture and whisk to combine. Slowly drizzle in the drippings and olive oil,whiskingtoemulsify.

4 • Ina large saladbowl, toss together the spinach,pickledonions, andappleslices. Just before serving, add the vinaigrette to taste. Toss well. Top withcrumbledbaconandserveatroomtemperature.

Cider-GlazedRootVegetables

Apple cider has a wonderful ability to cook down to asweet,tangy,lustrousglaze.ThisisaterrificsidedishfortheCider-BrinedPorkChopsonpage142ortheAppleandChestnut–StuffedPorkLoinonpage145 or as a vegetarian side dish, servedwith the protein of your choice. (Seepages144and146forphotographsofthefinishedvegetables.)EQUIPMENT:Largerimmedbakingsheet;12-to14-inchskillet

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME•45minutes•TOTALTIME:60minutes

1large(about3poundsor1.4kg)butternutsquash,peeledandseeded2largeparsnips(about12ouncesor340gtotal),peeled2largecarrots(about8ouncesor230gtotal),peeled2tablespoonsoliveoil1teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoons(28g)saltedbutter1teaspoonmincedginger1½cups(357ml)freshapplecider1½teaspoonscidervinegar2teaspoonsfreshthymeleaves

1•Preheattheovento400°Fandsetarackinthemiddleposition.Cutallthevegetablesintosticksabout2incheslongand⅓inchwide.Inalargebowl,tossthevegetableswitholiveoil,salt,andpepperuntilcoated.Spreadthevegetables

out on a baking sheet and roast until they’re just beginning to brown at theedges,about15minutes.

2 •Meanwhile, in a large skillet,melt the butter overmedium heat.Add thegingerandcookfor1minute.Addtheciderandvinegarandbringtoasimmer,then reduce the heat to low and cook until reduced by half, 8 to 10minutes.Removefromtheheat,addthethyme,andstir.

3•Removethevegetablesfromtheovenandaddtotheskillet.Stirtocoatwiththeglazeandreturntomediumheat.Simmeruntilthevegetablesaretenderandglossy,about10minutes.

SquashandAppleGratin

SquashandAppleGratin

This hearty dish is substantial enough to serve as avegetarianmain course, but also makes a nice accompaniment to roastchickenorturkey.Theslicedapplesandbutternutsquashlendsweetness,whileacrumblytopofgarlickybreadcrumbsgivesasavorybalance.APPLENOTES:Anyfirm-sweetapple(seepage30)willworkwell in thisgratin,andplayoffthesavorycrumbtopping.NOTE: In a pinch, you can substitute 1¼ cups (3 ounces; 81 grams) of pankobreadcrumbsforthefreshones.Tossthemwith2tablespoonsmeltedbutter,plusthenutmegandgarlic,thensprinkleovertheapples.EQUIPMENT: 2-quart gratin dish or 8-inch square baking dish; 10- to 12-inchskillet;foodprocessor

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME:55minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,25minutes

2tablespoonsheavycream3tablespoonschickenorvegetablebroth1medium(1½poundsor680g)butternutsquash,peeled,seeded,andcutinto¼-inch-widecrescentsandhalfmoons

4ounces(115g)Gruyèrecheese,grated1¼teaspoonskoshersalt,divided¾teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,divided4tablespoons(½stick;56g)saltedbutter,divided1mediumyellowonion,diced2teaspoonsmincedfreshrosemary2mediumfirm-sweetapples(about12ouncestotal;seeAppleNotes)peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inch-thickwedges

1½ounces(46g)crustywhitebread,suchasPullmanstyleorItalian,tornintosmallpieces(seeNote)

1garlicclove,minced½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

1•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetanovenracktothemiddleposition.Inasmallbowl,whisktogetherthecreamandbroth.Inalargebowl,tossthesquashwith the cheese, creammixture, 1 teaspoonof the salt, and½ teaspoonof thepepper. Pour into a gratin or baking dish, cover with foil, and bake until thesquash is tender, 35 to 45 minutes, turning the dish and removing the foilhalfwaythrough.Removefromtheovenandsetaside.Leavetheovenon.

2•Meanwhile,melt3 tablespoonsof thebutter inaskilletovermedium-highheat,addtheonion,andcookuntilitbeginstobrown,8to10minutes,stirringoccasionally.Addtherosemary, theremaining¼teaspoonsaltand¼teaspoonpepperandcookuntilfragrant,about1minute.Addtheapples,andcookuntiltheyaretenderandbeginningtocaramelize,8to10minutes.Spreadevenlyoversquash.Turnthebroilertohigh.

3•Inafoodprocessor,pulsethebreadwiththeremaining1tablespoonbutter,thegarlic, andnutmeg to create coarsebreadcrumbs.Sprinkleover the squashandapples.Broil,uncovered,untilthetoppingisgoldenbrown,5to7minutes.Letrestforatleast20minutesbeforeserving.

Parsnip-ApplePuree

I’ve always thought of parsnips as one of theunderappreciated vegetables. The name brings to mind somethingbitterandwrinkled.Buttheparsnip’sflavorremindsmeoftropicalfruit,anditplays so nicely off an apple’s sweet-tart notes.Add a little ginger, onion, andbrowned butter, and you have a Thanksgiving side dish that’s both sweet andsavory,andsmoothassilk.APPLENOTES:Avelvety texture isyourgoalhere,sobest tousea tender-sweetapple(seepage30),whichwillcookdowntosaucewhiletheparsnipssimmer.EQUIPMENT:3-to4-quartsaucepan

MAKES:3cupspuree,6servings•ACTIVETIME:20minutes•TOTALTIME:45minutes

3tablespoons(43g)saltedbutter

2pounds(908g)parsnips,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces1largetender-sweetapple(about8ounces;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutintochunks

½cup(75g)dicedyellowonion1½teaspoonsgratedfreshginger1cup(240ml)low-sodiumchickenbroth2tablespoonsheavycream½teaspoonkoshersalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonfinelychoppedparsley,forgarnish(optional)

1•Inasaucepan,meltthebutterovermediumheat.Letsizzleuntilitbeginstoturn golden brown, then a deep nut brown, 6 to 8minutes.Add the parsnips,apples,onion,ginger,andchickenbroth,thenincreasetheheattomedium-highandbringtheliquidtoaboil.Reducetheheattolow,coverthepot,andgentlysimmeruntiltheparsnipsaretender,about25minutes.

2•Useanimmersionblenderorhandmixertopureethesoftenedmixturetoasmooth,velvetyconsistency.Stir in the cream, salt, andpepper.Taste andaddmoresaltifdesired.Servewarm,withthegarnish,ifyoulike.

AppleRisotto(RisottoalleMelle)

The Silver Spoon Cookbook is the Joy of Cooking forItalians,and,flipping throughoneday, Iwas surprised to seea recipefor an apple risotto. The mix of savory (cheese, Worcestershire) and sweet(apple) was intriguing, so I played around with it and came up with thisadaptation,whichreplacestheoriginalWorcestershirewithsaffron.Servealoneorwithapple-flavoredporksausagesontheside.APPLENOTES:Asavorydish like this requires firm-tartapples (seepage30) forthe proper balance. Green apples, such as Granny Smith or Rhode IslandGreening,areparticularlytasty.EQUIPMENT:2-quartsaucepan;4-to5-quartsaucepan


About7cups(1.6L)vegetableorchickenbroth2generouspinchessaffron3tablespoons(43g)saltedbutter2mediumfirm-tartapples(about12ouncestotal,seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inchcubes

1teaspoonfreshlygratedlemonzest(looselypacked)2teaspoonskoshersalt,divided2½tablespoonsoliveoil1cupdicedonions2cups(400g)short-grainricesuchasArborioorCanaroli¾cup(180ml)light,drywhitewine,suchasPinotGrigio⅓cupfreshlygratedParmesancheese,plusmoreasdesired½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

1•Ina2-quartsaucepanovermedium-highheat,bringthevegetablebrothtoasimmer.Pourabout3tablespoonsofthebrothintoasmallbowlandstirinthesaffron.Setaside.Reducetheheattolowandkeepatagentlesimmerwhileyouprepare the restof thedish.Melt thebutter in a larger saucepanovermediumheat, add the apples, lemonzest, and1 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirringoften,untiltheapplesaretender,about5minutes.Transfertheapplemixturewithanymeltedbuttertoabowlandsetaside.

2 • Return the large pan to medium heat and add the olive oil, onions, andremainingteaspoonsalt.Cookuntiltheonionsaretranslucent,about5minutes.Addthericeandcook,stirringconstantly,untilthegrainsarecoatedinoilandalittletranslucent,about2minutes.Addthewineandcookuntilthericeabsorbsit,about2minutes.Addaladlefulofhotbrothandcook,stirringoften,untilit’sabsorbed, about 4 minutes. Add the saffron and its broth and stir. Add theremainingstock,oneladlefulatatimeasbefore,stirringoften,untilthericeistenderwithaverydelicatebiteinthecenter,about20minutestotal.Stirintheapple mixture (with any butter), Parmesan, and pepper. Serve warm with anadditionalsprinklingofParmesan,ifdesired.

AppleandMustardGrilledCheeseSandwiches

Pretty much anyone can make an acceptable grilledcheesesandwich.Butwiththistechnique,you’llhaveaperfectcrispy-meltysandwichwithoutapaninipress(thoughifyoudohaveone,byallmeans,use it).A number of different cheeseswork equallywell here, so feel free toexperimentandseewhichoneyoulikebest.APPLENOTES:Thepointofthisrecipeistobesoeasythatyoucanmakeitwithwhatever cheese and fruit you have on hand. However, a firm-tart apple (see

)goesbestwiththemustardandcheeseinthesandwich.NOTE: For best results, slice the apple on amandoline tomake the slices thinenoughtosofteninthetimeittakestogrillthesandwich.EQUIPMENT: 10- to 12-inch, heavy-bottomed skillet; 8- to 10-inch heavy-bottomedskillet,preferablycastiron

MAKES:2sandwiches•ACTIVETIME:20minutes•TOTALTIME:20minutes

1½tablespoons(21g)saltedbutter,atroomtemperature4slicessourdoughbread2teaspoonswhole-grainmustardAbout⅓ of a large firm-tart apple (about 3 ounces; see Apple Notes),unpeeled,cored,andslicedverythin(seeNote)

4 ounces (about 115 g) sharpCheddar, agedGouda,Gruyère, orHavarticheese,thinlysliced

1•Settheemptyskilletsovertwostovetopburners,bothatmediumheat.Letthemgethot.Ifusingapaninipress,setto350°F(mediumheat).

2•Meanwhile,butteronesideofeachbreadslice,thenlaytheslicesbuttersidedown on your cutting board. Spread equal portions ofmustard on two of thebreadslices,thendivideuptheappleslicesintotwoportionsandlayontopofthe mustard. Divide up the cheese slices and lay over the apples. Top thesandwicheswiththeremainingbreadslices,buttered-side-up.

3•Laythesandwichesinthelargeskillet.Cookuntilthebottomisbrowned,3to 4 minutes, then flip. Set the preheated medium-size skillet on top of thesandwiches so it functionsasapress. Ifyour skillet isn’tveryheavy,weigh itdownwith awater-filled kettle, a few large cans of tomatoes, etc.Cook untilbothsidesareevenlybrowned,about2minutesmore.Ifusingapaninipress,laythesandwichesinthepressandbringdownthecover.Cookthesandwichesuntilcrispandbubbling,4to6minutes.

WelshRarebitwithApples

Welsh rarebit is a very old dish, dating back toeighteenth-centuryEngland.Itwasoriginallycalled“WelshRabbit,”andaccordingtotheOxfordCompaniontoFood,thenamemayhavebeenaninsultto the good, cheese-loving people ofWales—“Welsh”meaning “faux” in thatcontext.

Inanycase,thisisessentiallyaverysavorybeer-accentedcheesesaucethatis broiled on slices of toast, and itmakes a terrific lunch, late-night snack, orlight dinner. Adding apple slices balances out the richness of the cheese, andmustardandWorcestershiregivethesauceabitoftang.APPLE NOTES: Any tender-tart apple (see page 30) will workwell because it’llsoftenupintheshorttimeunderthebroiler.IparticularlylikethewayCortland,McIntosh,andMacounpairwiththeCheddar.NOTE: For best results, slice the apple on amandoline tomake the slices thinenoughtosofteninthetimeittakestobroilthecheesesauce.EQUIPMENT:10-to12-inchskillet;largerimmedsheetpan;mandoline(optional)

MAKES:About12toasts•ACTIVETIME:35minutes•TOTALTIME:35minutes

2tablespoons(28g)saltedbutter1tablespoonall-purposeflour2teaspoonsdrymustardpowder,suchasColman’sbrand6ounces(175ml)drystout,suchasGuinnessbrandPinchofcayennepepper1pound(454g)agedsharpCheddarcheese,grated2teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce1loafcrustysourdoughbread,cutinto½-inch-thickslices1largetender-tartapple(about8ounces;seeAppleNotes),unpeeled,cored,andcutinto⅛-inch-thickslices

1•Preheatthebroileronlowandsetaracktothetopposition.Meltthebutterinaskilletovermediumheat.Sprinklewithflourandmustardpowderandcook,stirring,untilthemixturelooksglossy,about3minutes.Addthestoutandgentlywhiskuntilthesauceissmoothandbeginstothicken,about4minutes.Reducetheheattomedium-low.Addthecayennepepperandstir, thenaddthecheese,onehandfulatatime,stirringwellaftereachadditionsothatitmeltscompletely.

Add theWorcestershire and stirwell, thenpour the sauce intoa shallowbowlandrefrigeratefor20minutesuntilitthickensandbecomesspreadable.

2 •Meanwhile, arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and set under thebroiler until lightly toasted, 4 to 5 minutes. You may need to turn the sheetseveraltimesforevencooking.Removethesheetfromtheoven,turnthebreadslicesover,andlightlytoasttheotherside,3to4minutes.

3 • Increase the broiler to high heat.Take the cooled cheese sauce out of therefrigeratorandspreadabout2tablespoonssauceoneachbreadslice.Dividetheappleslicesamongthetoastsandlayontopofthesauce.Toptheappleswithanadditional1tablespoondollopofsauce.Returnthesheettothebroilerandcookuntil the cheese is bubbling and begins to brown, 3 to 5moreminutes. Servewarm.

PumpkinandAppleCustard

Confession:I’vealwaysfoundThanksgivingdinnertobeabitofasnooze—andI’mnottalkingaboutthecustomaryafter-dinnernap.Turkey, mashed potatoes, and gravy aren’t high on my list of Foods WorthCraving. But this dish, which my grandmother served every year next to thebowlofgreenbeanswithmushroomsand thebacon-draped turkey (Tip: layafewstripsoverthebreastmeatanditbecomesaself-bastingbird)—thiswasthesingle best reason to dig into the buffet. That’s probably because, with all itssweetness andwarm spice, and a texture somewhere between a custard and asoufflé, it’sabit likeeatingdessert fordinner. Ifyou’veeverhadsavorycornpudding,you’llknowwhatImean.Thisdishisrelativelylowinfat,andasurecrowd-pleaser.NOTE: You can find apple butter at most natural and Whole Foods stores (IrecommendEdenbrand,thoughanywilldo),oryoucanveryeasilymakeyourown(page275).EQUIPMENT:1½-quartsoufflédish;8-inchsquarebakingpan;standingmixerorhand-heldmixer


3largeeggs⅓cup(70g)granulatedsugar1cup(240ml)cannedpumpkinpuree¼cup(60ml)applebutter(seeNote)½cup(120ml)evaporatedmilk1tablespoonall-purposeflour1teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoonkoshersalt¼teaspoongroundginger¼teaspoongroundcloves¼teaspoongroundallspice

1•Preheattheovento425°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Butterthesoufflédish.Fillakettlewithabout4cupswaterandbringtoasimmer.

2 •Meanwhile, ina largebowl,usingastandingorhand-heldmixer,beat theeggsandsugaratmedium-highspeedfor2minutes,untilthickandpaleyellow.Gentlyfoldintheremainingingredients.

3•Pour thecustard into theprepareddishandset in thebakingpan.Transferbothtotheoven,thenfillthebakingpanwithenoughofthesimmeringwatertocomehalfwayupthesidesofthesoufflédish.Bakefor10minutes.Reducetheheat to 350°F and bake until the center of the custard barely jiggles whenshaken, 30 to 45moreminutes.Let sit for 10minutes, then servewarmor atroomtemperature.

AcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple

If you’ve been agonizing about what to serve yourvegetariancousinatThanksgiving,here’syouranswer(justmakeitwithvegetable broth). Kasha, also called buckwheat groats, is categorized a“pseudocereal”inbotanicalterms—thatis,it’snotrelatedtowheat—whichputsit in the same category as amaranth and quinoa. It has a wonderful aromatic

quality, and pairs well with nuts, mushrooms, and fruits, all of which arerepresentedhere.APPLENOTES:Thisdishhasmanyflavorsallmeetingupatonce,sodon’tworryaboutfindingafirm-sweetapplewithexactlytherightflavorprofile.Anyfirm-sweetfruit(seepage30)willtastegreat.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanpreptheentiredishadayaheadoftime, thenreheat,covered,ina325°Fovenfor30minutesbeforeserving.EQUIPMENT:Largebakingsheet;10-to12-inchskillet

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME:1hour,10minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour

3large(eachabout1½poundsor680g)acornsquash2tablespoonsvegetableoil1½teaspoonskoshersalt,divided3tablespoons(43g)saltedbutter1mediumonion,finelychopped1celerystalk,finelychopped5ounces(142g)buttonmushrooms,stemstrimmed,finelychopped¼cup(38g)roughlychoppedraw(unroasted,unsalted)cashews1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoongroundnutmeg1cup(165g)uncookedkasha1egg,beaten1 large firm-sweetapple (about8ounces; seeAppleNotes),peeled, cored,andcutinto¼-inchcubes

½cup(65g)choppedsweeteneddriedcranberries⅓cup(45g)choppedpitteddates2cups(474ml)low-sodiumchickenbrothorvegetablebroth1½cups(357ml)moderatelysweethardcider,suchasJ.K.’sScrumpyHardCiderorWoodchuckHardCider

1½ounces(43g)CheddarorGruyèrecheese,grated

1 • Preheat the oven to 375°F and set a rack to the middle position. Line abakingsheetwithaluminumfoil,shinysideup.Preparethesquashcups:Usinga

sharp chef’s knife, cut the squash in half crosswise. Scoop out the seeds andpulp,thentrimthebottomofeachcupjustenoughsoitsitsupright.Donotcutsodeeply thatyou lose thebottom.Brush thecupsand rimswithhalf theoil,sprinklewith½teaspoonofthesalt,andputcutsidedownonthebakingsheet.Bakeuntiltender,30to40minutes.

2•Meanwhile,heatthebutterandremaining1tablespoonoilinaskilletovermedium-high heat and add the onion, celery, mushrooms, cashews, theremaining1teaspoonsalt,pepper,andnutmeg.Cookuntilthemoisturefromthemushroomsevaporates,thecashewsaretoasted,andtheonionislightlygoldenattheedges,8to10minutes.Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,stirthekashawiththeegguntilevenlycoated;add to theskillet, reduce theheat tomedium,andstiruntil fragrant,3 to5minutes.Add theapple,cranberries,dates,broth,andcider,bringtoasimmer, thenreducetheheat tolow,cover,andcookuntil thekashaanddriedfruitabsorbtheliquid,about10minutes.

3 •Remove the squash cups from the oven.Turn right side up, then fillwithequalportionsofkashamixture,topwithequalamountsofcheese,andreturntotheovenfor10minutes.Servewarm.

SquashStuffedwithApples,Pancetta,andWalnuts

In a November 2009 New York Times column, MarkBittman published a compendium of more than one hundredThanksgivingsidedishideas.Onesuggestionpairedacornsquashwithafillingofdicedapplesandbacon.Ilikedthisidea,anddecidedtoexpandonitwiththeaddition of onions, walnuts, Gorgonzola cheese, and a panko breadcrumbtopping.IalsoreplacedthebaconwithpancettabecauseIlikethelatter’smilder,lesssmokyflavor,butfeelfreetosubstituteifpancettaisdifficulttofind.APPLE NOTES: Amix of firm-sweet and firm-tart apples (see page 30) adds anextra layerof flavor to thisdish;anyapples in thosecategorieswillworkwellhere.EQUIPMENT:Largerimmedsheetpan;10-to12-inchskillet

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME:1hour•TOTALTIME:1hour

3medium(about1½lbor680geach)acornsquash1tablespoonvegetableoil1½teaspoonskoshersalt,divided4ouncespancettaorbacon,choppedinto½-inchpieces1mediumyellowonion(about7ouncesor200g),diced1½ large firm-sweet apples (about 12 ounces or 340 g total; see AppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto⅓-inchcubes

1½largefirm-tartapples(about8ouncesor340gtotal),peeled,cored,andcutinto⅓-inchcubes

¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper½cup(55g)choppedwalnuts⅓cupGorgonzolacheese2tablespoonspankobreadcrumbs

1 • Preheat the oven to 375°F and set a rack to the middle position. Line abakingsheetwithaluminumfoil,shinysideup.Preparethesquashcups:Usingasharpchef’sknife, cuteachsquash inhalf crosswise.Scoopout the seedsandpulp,thentrimthebottomofeachcupjustenoughsoitsitsupright.Donotcutsodeeplythatyoulosethebottom.Brushthecupsandrimswiththeoil,sprinklewith 1 teaspoon of the salt, and place the squash, cut-side down, on the linedbakingsheet.Bakeuntiltender,30to40minutes.

2•Meanwhile,inaskillet,cookthepancettaovermediumheatuntilcrisp,3to5minutes.Removethepancettatodrainonpapertowelsandpouroutallbut2tablespoons of the rendered fat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirringoccasionally,untillightlygolden,5to7minutes.Addtheapples,theremaining½ teaspoon salt, and the pepper, and cook until the apples are tender, 5 to 8minutes.Stirinthewalnutsandthepancetta.

3•Whenthesquasharedone,removethemfromtheovenandturnthemoversothey’resittingupright.Turnyourbroilertolowandsettheovenracktothetopposition. (Ifyouroven issmall,youmayneed tobring therackdownonelevelsothatthesquashwon’tbetooclosetotheheat.)Fillthesquashwithequalportionsoftheapplefilling,thentopeachwithanequalportionofGorgonzola(about one tablespoon) andpankobreadcrumbs (about a teaspoon).Broil until

topsaregoldenbrown,about3minutes.Servewarm.

SweetPotato–AppleLatkesservedwithClassicApplesauce(page268)andsourcream

SweetPotato–AppleLatkes

Everyyear,wehostabigHanukkahpartyforacoupleofdozen friends, serving up four or five different kinds of latkes (potatopancakes) at a time. These sweeter latkes, accented with the oniony bite ofshallots, are always the first to go. And here’s a time-saving bonus: Because

sweet potatoes contain lesswater than regular baking potatoes, you can gratethem in the food processor without worrying about their releasing too muchliquid.APPLE NOTES: I like a green, firm-tart apple here (see page 30). Rhode IslandGreeningandGrannySmithwouldbothmakeexcellentchoices.NOTE:Keep the oil at about 370°Fwhile frying to prevent latkes from turninggreasy.Checktheheatwithacandythermometer(mostquick-readthermometersdon’tgohighenough)andadjustaccordingly.MAKE-AHEAD TIP: If making ahead, cool the latkes to room temperature, thenfreeze in zip-top bags. Re-crisp in a 325°F oven for 15 to 20minutes beforeserving.EQUIPMENT:Foodprocessororboxgrater;10-to12-inchheavy-bottomedskillet;3largebakingsheets

MAKES:25to30latkes•ACTIVETIME:1hour,10minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,10minutes

2pounds(900g)GarnetorJewelsweetpotatoes3largefirm-tartapples(about1½poundstotal;seeAppleNotes),unpeeled,cored,andquarteredlengthwise

8mediumshallots(7ouncesor200g)6largeeggs,beaten1cup(130g)matzomeal1tablespooncoarsekoshersalt1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperVegetableoilforfrying(seeNote)SourcreamandClassicApplesauce(page268),forgarnish

1 • Using the coarse side of a box grater or a food processor fitted with amediumgratingdisk,gratethepotatoes,applesandshallots.Tosstogetherinalargebowl.Addtheeggs,matzomeal,salt,andpepperandtosstomixwell.

2•Preheattheovento200°F.Pour¾inchofoilintoaskilletovermedium-highheat.Whenthetemperaturereaches370°F,scoop¼cuppotatomixturefromthebowl,thengentlydropthatmixtureoutontoawidespatula(thepointhereistokeepyourhandsascleanaspossible).Pressintoapattyabout⅓inchthickwith

your hand, then gently slide the pancake into hot oil. Cook three or fourpancakes at a time (donot crowd thepan)until the edges are crispy andwellbrownedandtheundersidesaregoldenbrown,4to5minutes.Gentlyturnandcookuntiltheothersidesaregoldenbrown,2to3minuteslonger.

3 • Transfer the pancakes to paper towels to drain briefly, then arrange in asingle layer on baking sheets and keepwarm in the ovenwhile you cook theremainingpancakes.Servehot,withsourcreamandapplesauce.

CHAPTERSIX

POULTRY,MEAT,ANDFISHENTREES

HiddenRose

FRUITFROMTHEDESERT:

NewMexico’sHiddenAppleCountry

Nothing about the drive toDixon’sApple Farmwouldevertellyouthatyou’reinapplecountry.Theroadtothefarmheadswestfromtheinterstate,passingtheman-madeexpanseofCochitiLakeandthelow-slung buildings of the nearby pueblo. The high desert landscape halfwaybetweenAlbuquerque and Santa Fe ismostly a flat expanse of ochre-coloredearthdottedwithsagebrushandpiñontrees,framedbytheJemezMountainsinthedistance.

That starkness makes the entrance to the farm seem all the more Edenic.Roundacornerandheaddownalittlehillpastasignthatreads“Appleeatershavetherightofway,”andyou’resuddenlyoverwhelmedbygreen.Neat rowsofappletrees—fiftyacres’worth—runthelengthofawidecanyonflooredgedby sandstone cliffs, the grass beneath the trees blazing up from the moist,

volcanic soil. The heavy fruit on the branches is a testament to the power ofample desert sunshine and a regular supply of water from the narrow RioChiquito.

Nearlyallyearlong,thisisaquietplace.ThefarmissurroundedbythevastexpanseofBandelierNationalMonument,aprotectedwildernessbestknownforits collection of twelfth-century Pueblo cliff dwellings. Tourists travel fromaroundtheworldtovisittheparkandscrambleupladderstothecaves,butfewknowofthislittlebitofappleparadisejustafewmilesaway.

But the locals know. Every September, they come in droves to buy theDixon’sapples,snakingdownthoselastfewmilesofHighway22inalongline.The apples sell outwithinweeks;weekends are amadhouse.The farmgrowsRedDelicious andRome apples, but what really attracts the crowds are theirsignature varieties,which the farm’s founder, FredDixon, namedChampagneandSparklingBurgundy,afterhediscoveredthetwochanceseedlingsinthelate1940s.

“There are cars backed up for four miles,” says Becky Mullane, Dixon’sgrandaughter,whonowrunsthefarmwithherhusband,Jim(Dixonpassedawayin2009).“Peoplewaitingatsixa.m.togetinthegate.Weselleverything.Beingjustafamilyfarm,it’shardtopasspeoplethroughquickly.Butwedon’twantittobeaWalmartexperience.Wewantanappleorchardexperience.”

Inaworldofbigboxstoresandcommodityfruit,Dixon’sisatonicforthesoul.It’sfullyafamilyfarm,withjustonefull-timeemployeeandsomehorses.Becky and Jim’s three children are being raised and home-schooled on theproperty. Until his fragile health forced him to leave the farm in 2007, FredDixon lived ina smallhomenext toBecky’s.Herdevotion tohergrandfathergoesbackto1986,whensheleftcollegeateighteentomovetoNewMexicoandhelphimkeepthefarmafterhergrandmother,Faye,passedaway.“Asakid,Idreamedaboutlivinghere,”Beckysays.“AndIwasworriedabouthim.OnceIgotinvolvedwiththeworkandsawIcoulddoitandsawpeopleatharvestandwhatitmeanttothem,itmademewanttobehereevenmore.”Therewasoneproblem, though:Dixonworriedaboutherprospectsasayoungwoman livingon a remote farm with her grandfather. “I didn’t want her here,” he told meseveral years ago. “I told her, ‘I’ll keep the farm until you graduate fromcollege.’Ifiguredshewassomescatterbrainedeighteen-year-old.”

ButBeckysurprisedhimbystaying.“Grandad said, ‘You’re never gonnagetmarried,’” saysBecky. “Then Jim

showedupandhehadtoeathiswords.”

JimtooktothefarminglifeandFredturnedthepropertyovertothecouplein 1996. In recent years, they’ve added a herd of cattle, three thousandmoreChampagnetrees,andamicro-irrigationsystem,whichhashelpedthemsurviveanongoingdrought.“Wehavetremendousfaith,”saysBecky.“Youhavetohavefaiththatyou’llgetthroughfreezingtimesandhail.Infifteenminutesyoucanbewipedout.ButI’mnotafraidofit.”

When I visited Fred Dixon in August 2006, he wasspendingmost days in his green easy chair in his small house behindBeckyandJim’srenovatedlogcabin.Beckyandthekidswanderedinandout.Hewasstillcookingforthefamily.Hewatchedtelevision.Itwasaquiet,happylife.

HefirstcametoNewMexicoin1944,drivingfromColoradowithFayeandtheir twochildren inanoldPlymouth.Hehadbeen trainedasanarborist,and“wantedachancetodosomethingonmyown,”asheputit.JamesWebbYoung,thelegendaryadvertisingexecutivewhofoundedtheAdCouncil,hadretiredtoPeñaBlanca,NewMexico,andneededsomeonetomanagethefruittreesonhisduderanch.“Therewerewildappletreeseverywhere,”Dixonsaid.Androcks.Thousandsofrocksthathadtobemovedbyhand(thestonesnowformawallthat you pass on the way into the property). He hated the place at first—itsdisorder,thehailstorms,theWildWestnatureofthesurroundingcommunity—andalmostheadedbacktoColorado,butFayepersuadedhimtostay.“Itwasamess.ButMr.YoungletmedowhatIwanted,aslongasImademoney.”Onewild tree inparticularcaughtDixon’sattention.Thefruitwas juicyandsweet,withbrightacidity,anditheldupwellinbaking.Plus,itkeptformonthsintherefrigerator. “Faye said, ‘I thinkwecould sell this,’”Dixon said.Henamed itafterthefinestthinghecouldthinkof:Champagne.“Ihonestlythinkit’sthebestappleintheworld,”hesaid.

Oncewordspread,theapplesbecameaNewMexicantradition.“Peopletellus that this is a ritual for them like going to the Balloon Fiesta or roastingchiles,”Beckysays.ButwhileDixondidtrademarkhisChampagneapples(andanotherpromisingvarietyhenamed“SparklingBurgundy”),hedecidednot tosellhisscionstootherfarmers,preferringtokeeptheappleonthefarm,whereitsscarcityensuressteadydemand.It’sasignificantrevenueloss,butthefamilyisdetermined.“Othergrowersdon’tnecessarilytakecareoftheapplestheway

wedo,”Beckysays.“Andwe’renotinittogetrich.Wejustwanttokeepitafamilybusiness.”

It looks like they’re pulling it off. It’s enough to give themost jaded cityslickerhopeforthefuture.AsBeckydrivesmearoundtheproperty,shepointsout her sons’ horses, the spot where she and Jim got married during appleblossomtime.Withoutactuallysayingso,shemakesitclearthather“sacrifice”atageeighteenwasreallynosacrificeatall.

“Becky ismore than a granddaughter tome,” FredDixon toldme on thatAugustday.“She’sagreatfriend.Andsometimesafriendisthebestthingyoucanhave.”

AppleCider–BrinedTurkeywithApplejack-SageGravy

Brining turkey in a mixture of two ciders, salt, brownsugar,ginger, herbs, and spices gives it the most wonderful deep appleflavorandkeepsthemeatterrificallymoist—eventhedelicatebreastmeat.EQUIPMENT:Large(16-to19-quart)lobsterpotor2largeplasticturkeyroastingbags (made by Glad or Regency); roasting rack; large roasting pan; meatthermometer;4-cupliquidmeasuringcup

MAKES:8to12servings•ACTIVETIME:1hour,45minutes•TOTALTIME:About4½hours,dependingonsizeofbird,plusatleast12hoursbriningtime

FORTHEBRINE

3quarts(2.8L)freshapplecider1quart(940ml)sweethardcider,suchasMagnersorWoodchuckAmber,availableatmostliquorstores

1cup(227g)koshersalt½cup(115g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar8slicespeeledginger,eachabout⅛inchthick4cinnamonsticks3bayleaves1tablespoonwholeallspice4sprigsfreshrosemary

4sprigsfreshthyme1gallon(3.8L)icewater

FORTHETURKEY

1wholefreshturkey(notpre-brined),10to15pounds1apple,anykind,unpeeled,cored,andcutinto1-inchchunks2celerystalks,roughlychopped½largeyellowonion,roughlychopped2tablespoonssaltedbutter1½cups(355ml)hardcider,suchasMagnersorWoodchuckAmber3or4stripsthick-cutbacon(preferablyapplewoodsmoked)

Applejack-SageGravy(recipefollows)

1•Inalobsterpotoryourlargeststockpot(atleast8quarts)overmedium-highheat, bring fresh cider, hard cider, kosher salt, brown sugar, ginger, cinnamonsticks, bay leaves, and allspice to a boil.Reduce the heat tomedium-low andsimmeruntilthesaltandsugararefullydissolved,about3minutes.Turnofftheheat and stir in the rosemary and thyme; let steep for 5minutes.Add the icewater,thencheckthetemperature.Itshouldbecooltothetouch.Ifnot,letthemixturesitawhilelongeruntilitcools.Meanwhile,removethegibletsandneckfromtheturkey;discard.Rinsetheturkeythoroughly,insideandout.Noneedtopatdry.

2 • If your pot is large enough to hold the turkey (and your refrigerator canaccommodateit),puttheturkeyinthebrineandrefrigeratefor12to24hours.Otherwise,double-bag twoplastic roastingbagsand set them,openingsup, inyourroastingpan.Addtheturkeyandcarefullypourinthebrine.Tiethebagssecurelywithtightknotsortwisttiesandtransfertotherefrigeratorfor12to24hours,turningtheturkeyoncetomakesureallpartsareproperlybrined.

3•Preheatyourovento425°Fandsetarackinthesecond-to-bottomposition.Pouroffthebrineanddiscard,thenrinsetheturkeywithcoldwaterandpatdrywithpapertowels.Fillthecavitywithapple,celery,andonion,thenrubtheskinalloverwiththebutterandlooselytiethelegstogetherwithkitchentwine.Setthe turkey,breast sidedown, ina rack in the roastingpanandpourhardcider

aroundit.Covertheturkeywithtentedaluminumfoil(justpatitdown,overthemeat—noneedtoseal)andtransfertotheoven.Reducetheheatto325°F,androasttheturkeyfor10minutesperpound.

4 • Remove the foil tent and turn the turkey over so that it’s breast side up.Dependingonthesizeofyourbird,drape3or4baconslicesoverthebreastsothatthemeatisnearlycovered.Continueroastingat325°Fforanadditional5to6minutesperpound,untilthelegsfeellooseintheirsocketsandathermometerinserted straightdown to thebone through the thickestpart of thebreastmeatregisters 160°F. Remove the bacon and discard or save it for yourself (it’sdelicious).Removetheapple,onion,andceleryfromthecavityandsetasideformakingApplejack-SageGravy(recipefollows).Pourthepanjuicesintoaliquidmeasuringcupandlet thefatseparatefromthejuices—you’llalsousethatforthe gravy. Set the roasting pan asidewith all the browned bits on the bottom.Transfer the turkey toaplatterorcarvingboardand let sit tented looselywithfoil for 30 to 45minutes before carving.This allows the juices to redistributethroughthemeatandgivesyoutimetopreparethegravy.

5•CarvetheturkeyandservewithApplejack-SageGravy.

Applejack-SageGravy

MAKES:2½to3cupsgravyEQUIPMENT:3-to4-quartsaucepan;roastingpanusedforturkey

2½cups(590ml)low-sodiumchickenbroth6freshsageleavesApples,onions,andceleryfromroastedbird3tablespoonsall-purposeflour½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperPanjuicesfromroastedturkey2tablespoonsapplejackbrandyorCalvados1tablespoonheavycreamSalttotaste

1 • In a saucepan, bring the chicken broth, sage leaves, apples, onions, andcelerytoaboil,thenreducetheheattomedium-lowandsimmer,uncovered,for20minutes.When thebroth is ready, setyour just-used roastingpanover twoburnersonyourstovetopandturntheheattomedium.Strainthebrothintotheroasting pan and let it simmer, using a wooden spoon to scrape up all thebrownedbitsfromthebottomofthepan.Turnofftheheatandsetaside.

2•Setyourjust-usedsaucepanovermediumheat(noneedtowashfirst).Spoonoff3 tablespoons fat from the reservedpan juicesandpour into the saucepan.Discardanyremainingfatfromthepanjuices.Addtheflourandpeppertothesaucepan and whisk together. Cook until the mixture is bubbling and glossy,about 3minutes.Add the reservedpan juices andwhisk together; themixturewillbegintothicken.Addthebrothfromtheroastingpanandsimmer,whiskinggently, until smooth and thick, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the applejack andcream.Tasteforseasoning;addsalt,ifneeded.Strainthegravyintoagravyboatandservewarmwiththeturkey.

BraisedBrisketwithApplesandHardCider

Before I triedmaking this recipe, I doubted that applesandbeefcould evergo together.Porkandsausages, absolutely.Chicken,perhaps. But not beef. I thought that apples would never complement beef’sheartierflavor,muchinthesamewaythatwhitewinedoesn’ttendtopairwellwithredmeat.Luckily,myeditorhasmoreimagination.ShesuggestedabrisketcookedinhardciderandIwarilygaveitashot.Itwasfantastic!Theciderhasjust enough intensity to stand up to the beef, and the onions, apples, brownsugar, spice, andchilecookdown intoagravywith the tangof, say,barbecuesauce.Alittlebacontiesitalltogether.Servewithbutteredeggnoodles.APPLENOTES:Goforthefirmest,tartestappleyoucanfindforthisdish.Infact,thebestappleforthisdishmaywellbetheubiquitousGrannySmith(seepage30formorefirm-tartvarieties).NOTE:Youdon’tabsolutelyhavetosaltandpepperthebrisketatleast4hoursinadvanceofcooking,buttheflavorissomuchricherthatitreallyisworthtakingthatextrastep.EQUIPMENT:5-to6-quartheavy-bottomedpotorDutchoven

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:4hours,plusatleast4hourstoseasonthemeatinadvance

1tablespoonplus½teaspoonkoshersalt1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoongroundcinnamon3-to4-pound(1.4to1.8kg)flatcutbeefbrisket,extrafatremoved4ounces(116g)bacon,diced3mediumyellowonions,slicedinto½-inch-thickrings2largefirm-tartapples(about1poundtotal),preferablygreen(seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inch-thickslices

2tablespoonsfirmlypackedlightbrownsugar1largejalapeñochile,seededanddiced1bayleaf3cups (710ml)semi-sweethardcider, suchasWoodchuckHardCiderorJ.K.’sScrumpyHardCider,bothavailableatmanylargeliquorstores

1•Inasmalldish,stirtogether1tablespoonkoshersaltandallthepepperandcinnamon.Set thebrisket ina largebakingdishandsprinklealloverwith thespice mixture. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4hoursandupto24hours(seeNote).

2•InapotorDutchovenovermediumheat,cookthebaconuntilbrownedandjust crisp, 6 to 8minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon. Increase the heat tomedium-high,addthebriskettothepot,andweighitdownwithanotherheavypotorskillettomaximizebrowning.Cookuntilnicelybrownedononeside,5to7minutes,thenflipthemeat,replacetheweight,andbrowntheothersidefor5to7minutes.Removethemeatandsetaside.

3•Preheat theovento325°Fandsetarack to thesecond-to-bottomposition.Drainallbut2tablespoonsfatfromtheDutchovenandaddtheonions,apples,brown sugar, jalapeño, bay leaf, and remaining½ teaspoon kosher salt. Cookovermediumheat,stirringoften,until theonionsandapplesaregoldenbrownandtender,about10minutes.Addthecideranduseawoodenspoontoscrapeup all the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Return themeat and any

juicestothepot,bringtheliquidtoasimmer,thencoverthepotandtransfertotheoven.

4 •Gently simmer the brisket until tenderwhen piercedwith a fork, about 3hours, being sure to turn the meat once with a pair of tongs about halfwaythrough.Checkperiodically tomakesure thesauce isn’tboiling; if it is, lowertheheatto300°F.Removethepotfromtheoven,transferthebriskettoaplatter,and strain the sauce through a sieve to remove the cooked-down apples andonions.Youcandiscardthesolidsorreservethemtospoonoverthemeatwhenyouserveitwiththesauce.

5•Letthesaucesitinaglassliquidmeasuringcupfor5minutesandskimoffanyexcess fatwitha spoon, then return the sauce to thepot and simmerovermedium-highheatuntilthickenedandglossy,10to15minutes.Tastethesauceandaddsaltorpepperifneeded.

6•Carvethemeatacrossthegraininto¼-to½-inch-thickslices;servewiththereducedsauceand,ifdesired,thecooked-downapplesandonions.

PorkandApplePiewithCheddar-SageCrust.Asavoryporklayeristoppedwithamixofsweetandtartapples.

PorkandApplePiewithCheddar-SageCrust

My editor, Maria Guarnaschelli, suggested this recipe,basedonhermemoryofasavorypieservedataLondonpub.Onehalfofthepiewas filledwithpork and theotherwith apples.As I later learned, thatdish has its roots in an eighteenth-century workingman’s lunch called theBedfordshireClanger—ahand-heldpiefilledwithmeatononeendandjamon

theother.Itwasacompactwaytoservelunchanddessertinonepackage.Inadaptingthisideatomyowntaste,Idecidedtolayerapplesontopofa

spicedgroundporkfilling, rather thansetting the two ingredientssidebyside.Theflavorsarefantastictogether,andthisdishhasbeenthehitofmanyparties.Itmakesanespeciallygoodbuffetoption,asitcanbeservedwarmoratroomtemperature.APPLE NOTES: As with all pie recipes, youwant firm fruit here (see page 30).Somegoodexamples:GrannySmith,ArkansasBlack,andNorthernSpyfortartapples;andGoldenDelicious,Jazz,orPinkLadyforsweetones.EQUIPMENT: 10- to 12-inch skillet; food processor; 9-inch deep-dish pie plate,preferablyglass;parchmentpaperorwaxpaper

MAKES:8to10servings•ACTIVETIME:1hour•TOTALTIME:2hours

FORTHECRUST

2½cups(350g)all-purposeflour2teaspoonsdriedsage,finelycrumbled½teaspoontablesalt16tablespoons(2sticks;255g)chilledunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes3ounces(85g)sharpCheddarcheese,finelygrated6to8tablespoons(90to120ml)icewater1eggblendedwith1tablespoonwaterFreshsageleavesforgarnish(optional)

FORTHEFILLING

1½pounds (about 3 large) firm-sweet apples (seeAppleNotes), unpeeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inch-thickwedges

1½pounds(about3large)firm-tartapples,unpeeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inch-thickwedges

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1smallonion,veryfinelychopped2pounds(900g)groundpork(preferably15to17%fat)1tablespoonfirmlypackedlightbrownsugar1teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoongroundcinnamon

½teaspoongroundginger¼teaspoongroundcloves¼teaspoongroundallspice3½tablespoonsplainbreadcrumbs

PorkandApplePiewithCheddar-SageCrust(page129),inprocess

1•Firstmakethecrust:Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,sage,andsaltuntilwellcombined.Sprinklethebuttercubesovertheflourmixtureanduseyour fingers to work them in (you want to rub your thumb against yourfingertips,smearingthebutterasyoudoso).Dothisuntilthemixturelookslike

cornmealwithsomepea-sizedbitsofbutterremaining.Stirinthecheesewithaforkuntilevenlydistributed.Sprinkle6tablespoonsicewateroverthemixtureandstirwithaforkuntil thedoughbegins tocometogether. Ifneeded,addanadditionaltablespoonortwooficewater(youshouldn’tneedmuchmore).Turnthedoughoutontoa lightly floured surfaceandknead three times.Gather thedoughintoaball,thendivideintotwoportions,makingoneslightlybiggerthanthe other. Press each portion down into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap.Refrigerateforatleast30minutes.

2•Makethefilling:Inaskilletovermedium-lowheat,cooktheappleswithoutanyoil,stirringgently,untiltheyjustbegintosoften,5to7minutes.Transfertoadishandsetaside.Addoil to thepanand increase theheat tomedium-high.Addtheonion,pork,brownsugar,salt,andspices.Cook,usingawoodenspoontobreakupthemeat,untilitislightlybrowned,about10minutes.Letthemeatmixture cool for 10 minutes, then transfer to a food processor. Add thebreadcrumbs and pulse five times until the mixture has the texture of coarsesand.Setaside.

3•Preparethecrust:Unwrapthelargerdiskofdoughandputitinthecenterofalargesheetofparchmentpaperorwaxpaper.Coverthedoughwithasecondpieceofparchment.Rollout,workingfromthecenter,toa13-inchcircle.Peeloffthetoppieceofparchmentandtransferthedoughtoapieplate,peeledsidedown.Peelofftheremainingparchmentandpressthecrustintothesidesofthepieplate,drapinganyexcessover theedge.Unwrapthesmallerdiskofdoughandputitinthecenterofalargesheetofparchmentpaper.Coverthedoughwitha secondpieceofparchment.Rollout,working from thecenter, toan11-inchcircle.Setaside.

4•Preheat theovento425°Fandsetarack to thesecond-to-bottomposition.Fillthepie:Pourthemeatmixtureintothebottomcrustandgentlysmooththetopwithaspatula.Arrangethecookedappleslicesoverthemeat,pressingdowntomake the whole construction as smooth and neat as possible. Peel the topsheetofparchmentoffthetopcrust.Transfer,peeledsidedown,tothepie,thenpeelofftheremainingparchment.Usingasharpknife,maketwo3-inchslashesinthecrusttoallowsteamtoescape.Foldtheedgesofthebottomcrustupoverthetopcrustandcrimptheedgestoseal.Brushthecrustwiththeeggwashand

decoratewithsageleaves,ifdesired.Bakeat425°Ffor10minutes,thenreducethe heat to 375°F and bake until the crust is golden brown, 25 to 35minutesmore.Removefromovenandletcool25minutesbeforeserving.

TennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple

GrowingupinNewEngland,Iwascompletelyunawareof cornbread dressings until I paid a holiday visit to a then-boyfriend’sfamilynearKnoxville. IbelieveIate thatonedishforbreakfastand lunch thenextday,too.Intheend,theboyfriendprovedtemporary,butthedressingliveson.Inmyversion,I’veenhancedthestandardsage-and-sausageblendwithtartapple,hardcider,andpecans.APPLENOTES:Therearesomanyflavorsinthisdressingthatanyfirm-tartvarietywillwork(seepage30).Thepointistohavejustenoughaciditytocutthroughtherichness.NOTES:Thisrecipeiscalibratedforasavorycornbread,notasweetone,whichiswhy I strongly recommendmakingyourown. If youcan’t findSouthern-stylepork sausage, you can substitute sweet Italian sausage. And if you can’t findbulksausage,simplytakefreshlinksausageoutofthecasing.EQUIPMENT:Large rimmedbaking sheet; 9- by13-inchbakingdish; 10- to 12-inchskillet

MAKES:6to8servings•ACTIVETIME:40minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,45minutes

6 cups (640 g) Southern-StyleCornbread (recipe follows), cut into½-inchcubes(seeNotes)

1cup(240ml)reduced-sodiumchickenbroth,divided1 cup (240 ml) semi-sweet hard cider, such as Woodchuck Hard Cider,availableatmostlargeliquorstores,divided

2largeeggs1tablespoon(14g)saltedbutter,plusmoreforbutteringpan1smallyellowonion,diced1largecelerystalk,diced

5mediumshallots,minced1pound(450g)bulkSoutherncountrysausage (suchasNeese’sbrandorJimmyDean),brokenintosmallchunks(seeNotes)

1largefirm-tartapple(about8ounces;seeAppleNotes),unpeeled,cored,andcutinto½-inchcubes

1½tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshsageleaves¾teaspoonkoshersalt¾teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1cup(100g)choppedpecansorwalnuts

1•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Arrangethecornbreadcubesonabakingsheetandbakeuntilgoldenbrownandcrispy,about30minutes.Removefromtheovenandcoolfor15minutes.Transferthecubestoalargebowl.

2•Butterabakingdishandsetaside.Inasmallbowl,whisktogether⅔cupofthebroth,⅔cupofthehardcider,andtheeggs.Pouroverthecornbreadcubesandtossverywelltocombine(don’tworryifsomecubescrumble;thedressingwillhavebettertexture).Setaside.

3 •Melt thebutter in a skillet overmedium-highheat.Add theonion, celery,andshallots.Cookjustuntiltheonionsaretranslucent,3to5minutes.Addthesausageandcook,breakingupwithawoodenspoon,until itbegins tobrown,about10minutes.Addtheapple,sage,salt,andpepperandcook,stirring,untiltheapplesaresoftenedandthesausageisbrowned,5to7minutesmore.Pourthemixture,fatandall,overthecornbreadcubesandtosswell.

4 • Increase the oven heat to 400°F. Return the skillet to the stovetop overmedium-highheatandaddtheremaining⅓cupbrothand⅓cupcider.Simmer,usingawoodenspoontoscrapebrownedbitsfromthebottom,untiltheliquidisreducedbyhalf,about5minutes.Pourtheliquidoverthedressingandtosswell.

5 •Pour thedressing into thepreparedbakingdishandspreadevenly.Scatterpecansoverthetopandbakeuntilthetopisgoldenbrown,about35minutes.

Southern-StyleCornbread

In this case, “Southern-style”means savory. It’s a pointofprideformanySoutherncookstoeschewthesweetbreadsfavoredbyusNortherners—breadsthatonefriendofminecalls,withnoapparentaffection,“dessert.”IcanassureanySouthernreadersthatthe2teaspoonsofsugarinthisrecipemerelyenhancethecornflavor,andarebarelydetectible.NOTE:Ifyou’reusingthisbreadfordressing,makeituptotwodaysahead(wraptightly in plastic wrap and store at room temperature). For straight eating,consumewithinadayorso.Youcanalso freeze thebread,wrapped tightly inplasticandfoil,foruptoonemonth.EQUIPMENT:10-inchcastironskillet,orotheroven-safefryingpanofsamesize

MAKES:1loaf;6cupscubedbreadfordressing•ACTIVETIME:15minutes•TOTALTIME:40minutes

2tablespoons(7g)saltedbutter1 cup (170 g) medium grind cornmeal, such as Bob’s Red Mill(bobsredmill.com)orAnsonMills(ansonmills.com)brands

½cup(73g)all-purposeflour2teaspoonsgranulatedsugar1¼teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoonkoshersalt1¼(295ml)cupsbuttermilk1largeegg2teaspoonsvegetableoil

1 • Preheat the oven to 400°F and set a rack to the bottom position. Put theskilletintheoven.

2•Inamicrowaveoven,meltthebutter.Letitcoolwhileyouprepthebatter.Ina medium bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder,bakingsoda,andsalt. Ina smallbowl,whisk together thebuttermilkandegg,then add to the dry ingredients. Stir in the melted butter. Fold everything

together verygently andbrieflywith a spatula; stop as soon as themixture iscombined.Somelumpsarefine.

3•Retrievethepanfromtheovenandaddtheoil;swirltocoatthepan(Iuseasilicone pastry brush around the sides). Pour in the batter (it may sizzle) andbakeuntilthebreadisgoldenbrownontopandhaspulledawayfromthesides,15to20minutes.Coolinthepanonarackfor10minutesbeforeremoving.

SausageandRedOnionSandwich

MyfriendAdeenaSussmancreatedthissandwich,andIhatetogomore than a fewmonthswithoutmaking it. It requires a fewsteps,butitactuallygoesveryquicklyandthesandwichtastesbestwheneachcomponentismadeseparately.APPLENOTES:TheCheatSheetonpage30listsfirm-sweetapplevarieties.Somegoodexamples:GoldenDelicious,GingerGold,PinkLady,Jazz,andPiñata.EQUIPMENT:10-to12-inchskillet


1mediumredonion,slicedinto¼-inch-thickrings7tablespoons(104ml)oliveoil,divided1½teaspoonskoshersalt,divided1½teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper,divided4uncookedsweetItaliansausages(about1poundor450gtotal)4garliccloves,verythinlysliced1(10-ounceor285g)packagebabyspinach4½tablespoons(67ml)cidervinegar,divided2tablespoonsDijonmustard,divided2mediumfirm-sweetapples(about12ouncestotal;seeAppleNotes),coredandcutinto¼-inch-thickwedges

4large,crustyFrenchorciabattarolls

1 •Preheata skilletovermediumheat. Inabowl, toss theonion ringswith1

tablespoonoftheoliveoil,1teaspoonofthesalt,and1teaspoonofthepepper.Cook the onions in the pan, turning once, until lightly browned, about 10minutestotal;removeandsetaside.Putthesausagesinthepanandcookuntilcooked through and browned all over, about 15 minutes. Set aside, drain onpapertowels,andkeepwarmintheoven.Wipetheskilletwithpapertowelstoremovethegrease.

2 • Preheat the oven to 200°F and set a rack in the middle position. Heat 3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilintheskilletovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandbrown for 30 seconds. Add the spinach and stir with a wooden spoon untilwilted,2to3minutes.Removefromtheheatanduseawoodenspoontopressexcessliquidfromthespinach;discardtheliquid,butretainthegarlic.Removethespinachandgarlictoabowlandtosswiththeremaining½teaspoonofthesaltand½teaspoonofthepepper;keepwarmintheoven.

3•Insameskillet,heattheremaining3tablespoonsoliveoilovermedium-lowheat.Add2½tablespoonsofthecidervinegarand1tablespoonofthemustard.Addtheapplesandcook,stirringoften,untiltheysoftenslightly,5to6minutes.With a slotted spoon, remove the apples to a plate and keep warm. Add theremaining vinegar andmustard to the pan andwhisk until slightly emulsified,addingalittlemoresaltandpeppertotaste,ifdesired.

4 • To assemble the sandwiches, split the rolls in half. Drizzle some warmdressing from the skillet on both sides of each roll. Divide the spinach-garlicmixtureamongtherolls.Placethesausageonthespinach,layerwithapples,andtopwithonion.Serveimmediately.

SausagewithBraisedCabbageandApples

My mother makes a similar dish every fall, only withsauerkrautinsteadoffreshcabbage.Bycookingcabbageincidervinegarand apple cider rather than starting with sauerkraut, you get a more delicatesweet flavor. Adding sausages gives everything a hint of smoke. Servedwithsomecrustybread,it’sacompletemealuntoitself.APPLENOTES:Thegoalhere is twofold:Youwanta tender-sweetapple tocook

downandformasauce(seepage30forlistofvarieties),andthenafirm-sweetfruittokeepitsshapeandnotmeltintothecabbage.Aslongasyoumanagetodothat,youreallydon’tneedtoworryaboutspecificvarieties;allwilldowellhere.EQUIPMENT:4-to5-quartDutchoven


1smallhead(1½pounds;680g)redcabbage,cored,with first2 layersofouterleavesremoved

1tablespoonoliveoil6 uncooked pork sausages such as bratwurst or sweet Italian (about 1pound;454g)

1mediumredonion,slicedthin1½teaspoonskoshersalt1teaspooncarawayseeds6tablespoons(90ml)cidervinegar¾cup(180ml)freshapplecider1largetender-sweetapple(about8ounces;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inchcubes

1largefirm-sweetapple(about8ounces),peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inchcubes

2tablespoons(28g)saltedbutter

1•Quarter thecabbage lengthwise, then layeachsectionon itssideandslicedown lengthwise as thinly as possible, as if you’re shaving the cabbage withyourknife.Asyougettotheouteredgeofthequarter,feelfreetostopifitgetstoodifficulttothinlycut.

2•HeattheoliveoilinaDutchovenovermedium-highheat.Addthesausagesandcookuntillightlybrownedalloverbutnotcookedthrough,about5minutes.Transfertoaplate.

3•Addtheonionandsalttothepotandcookuntilitbeginstobrown,about8minutes.Addthecaraway,cidervinegar,andappleciderandbringtoasimmer,

scrapingupanybrownbits.Addthecabbageandapplesandcook10minutes.Returnthesausagestothepot,cover,andcontinuetosimmeruntilthecabbageis tender, about 20 minutes. Add the butter and stir until melted. Serveimmediately.

DuckPanzanellawithApplesandThyme

Traditional Italian panzanella is a summer dish madefrom leftover bread mixed with tomatoes, red onion, cucumber, basil,oliveoil,andvinegar.Thisvariationtakesitintothefallbyusingduck,apples,andthyme.Serveitforlunchorasalightsupper.APPLENOTES:Any firm-sweet applewill dowell here. For a complete list, seepage30.NOTE:Sincemostbreadloavesweigh1pound,youneedabout¼loaf.EQUIPMENT:Largerimmedbakingsheet;10-to12-inchskillet


¼pound(113g)day-oldsourdoughorolivebread,crustson,cutinto1-inchcubes(seeNote)

1largeduckbreast(about1poundor454g,thawediffrozen)1teaspoonkoshersalt,divided½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,divided2teaspoonscanolaoilorothervegetableoil½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1largesweetonion,suchasVidaliaorWallaWalla,sliced2large,firm-sweetapples(about1pound;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutunto1-inchcubes

1tablespoonfreshthymeleaves,plusmoreforgarnish3cups(about12ouncesor340g)babyarugulaleaves

FORTHEDRESSING

½cup(120ml)oliveoil⅓cup(80ml)cidervinegar

1teaspoonDijonmustard1shallot,minced½teaspoonkoshersalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

1•Preheattheovento300°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Arrangethebreadonabakingsheetandbakeuntillightlytoasted,4to5minutes.Removefromtheovenandletcool.Pattheduckbreastdrywithpapertowelsanduseasharp knife to score the skin in a crisscross pattern. Season all over with ½teaspoonofthesaltand¼teaspoonofthepepper.

2 •Add theoil to a skillet andheatovermedium-highheatuntil it’s thinandglossy. Place the duck breast skin side down in the skillet and cook, withoutmovingit,untiltheskiniscrispandhasrenderedsomeofitsfat,6to7minutes.Turntheduckoverandcookforanadditional2minutesuntilbrightpinkinthecenter, but not rare (cut to check). Remove and let rest on a cutting board.Discardallbut2tablespoonsofrenderedduckfatfromtheskillet.

3•Addtheoniontotheskilletandcook,stirring,untilit’ssoftbutnotbrowned,about5minutes.Addtheapples,2tablespoonswater,thyme,andanadditional½teaspoonsaltand¼teaspoonpepperandcookuntiltheappleshavejustbegunto soften, about6minutes.Transfer themixture to a largebowl, tosswith thearugula,andsetaside(thearugulawillstarttowilt).

4•Makethedressing:Inabowl,whisktogethertheoliveoil,vinegar,mustard,shallot, salt, and pepper until emulsified. Add the bread cubes to the apple-onion-arugulamixture,thenaddthevinaigretteandtosstocoat.Dividethesaladamongfourplates(orarrangeonaplatter).Slicetheduckagainstthegraininto¼-inch-thick slices, divide into four portions, and arrange on top of the salad.Servewarm,sprinkledwithfreshthymeleaves.

Cider-BraisedPorkwithCalvadosandPrunes

Porkandapplesareaclassicpairing—thetrickis toget

therightmixofsweetandsavoryflavors.AbraisingliquidofhardciderandCalvados(applebrandy)perfumesthemeat;prunesaddsweetnessandturnsilkyduringcooking.MAKE-AHEADTIP: Likemost braises, this dish is even betterwhenmade a dayahead.Preparetherecipethroughstepfour,thencoolandrefrigerateovernight.An hour before serving, skim fat from the surface, then bring the sauce to asimmeronthestovetop,reducetheheattolow,addthemarjoram,andproceedaccordingtoinstructions.EQUIPMENT:5-to6-quartDutchoven;6-cupliquidmeasuringcup

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:4hours

¼cup(36g)all-purposeflour2tablespoonskoshersalt,plusmoretotaste2teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper4-to5-pound(1.8to2.3kg)bonelessporkshoulder(Bostonbutt)3tablespoonsoliveoil15mediumshallotsCinnamonstick1¾ cups (415ml) semi-sweet hard cider, such asWoodchuckHardCider,availableatmostlargeliquorstores

1¾cups(415ml)low-sodiumchickenbroth½cup(120ml)Calvados(applebrandy)orapplejack35pittedprunes(notinsyrup)3freshmarjoramsprigs

1•Inalargebakingdish,stirtogethertheflour,salt,andpepper.Rolltheporkshoulderintheflourmixturetocoat,thenshakeoffanyexcess.

2•InaDutchoven,warmtheoilovermedium-highheat.Adtheporktothepotandbrownallover,3to4minutesperside,adjustingtheheatasneededtokeeptheflourfromburning.Removetheporkanddrainallbut2tablespoonsfatfromthepot.Setaside.

3•Preheattheovento325°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Returnthe

Dutchoventotheheatonthestovetopandaddtheshallots;cook,stirring,untillightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the cinnamon stick, then pour in thecider,broth,andCalvados,scrapingthebottomofthepotwithawoodenspoonto remove thebrownbits.Return themeat to thepot.Bring toa simmer, thenaddtheprunes,coverthepot,andputintheoven.Cooktheporkfor2½hours,thenremovefromtheoven.

4 •Add themarjoramsprigs to thepot, stir, andput thepoton stovetopovermedium-lowheatwiththelidajar.Maintainagentlesimmerforanadditional30minutes,oruntiltheporkistenderwhenpiercedwithaforkandthesaucehasthickenedabit.Removetheporkfrompotandletitrestonacarvingboardfor10minutes.

5•Pourthesauce,alongwiththeshallotsandprunes, intoaliquidmeasuringcup.Letsitfor10minutes,thenskimoffanyfatthatrisestothesurface.Tastethe sauce and addmore salt as needed.Slice thepork into¼-inch-thick slicesandserveimmediatelywithbutterednoodles,polenta,orspaetzle.

Cider-BrinedPorkChopswithMustardPanSauce

Theonlytime-consumingpartofthisrecipeisbriningthepork,whichyouwilldoafewhoursaheadoftime.Thesimplesauceiseasytoprepare,incrediblyflavorful,andabeautifulcaramelcolor.Applesflavorthedishthroughout,fromthebrinetothesauce.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Placethechopsin thebrine in themorningandyoucanhavedinneronthetablein40minutes.EQUIPMENT:10-to12-inchheavy-bottomedskillet;9-by13-inchbakingdish

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME:35minutes•TOTALTIME:35minutes,plusatleast3hoursbriningtime

FORTHEBRINE

3½cups(830ml)freshapplecider¼cup(70g)koshersalt2teaspoonswholeblackpeppercorns,divided

2bayleaves,divided4crushedgarliccloves,divided6bone-inporkribchops(eachabout1inchthick)

FORTHESAUCE

2tablespoons(28g)saltedbutter¾cup(180ml)freshapplecider1cup(240ml)chickenbroth⅓cup(80ml)heavycream1tablespoonwhole-grainmustard¼teaspoonkoshersalt

1•Firstmakethebrine:Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheciderandsaltuntilthesaltdissolves.Dividethebrinebetweentwozip-topfreezerbags,thenadd1teaspoon peppercorns, 1 bay leaf, and 2 garlic cloves to each. Put 3 chops ineachbag,seal,andchillforatleast3hoursandupto1day.

2•Preheat theoven to325°Fandseta rack to themiddleposition.Drain thechopsandblotdry.Inalargeskilletovermedium-highheat,meltthebutterandadd3porkchops.Cook(noneedtostirorturn)untilbrownedononeside,3to5minutes.Turnthechopsandcookuntilbrownedontheotherside,3to4minutesmore.Repeatwiththesecondbatch.Settheskilletaside.

3•Layerthechopsina9-by13-inchbakingdishandbakeuntilverypalepinkin thecenter (cut tocheck),15 to20minutes.Remove thedishfromtheovenandtransferthechopstoaservingplatter.

4•Makethesauce:Returntheskillettomedium-highheatandaddthecider.Asitbubbles,useawoodenspoontoscrapeupbrownbitsonthebottom.Addthebroth,turntheheattohigh,andboiluntiltheliquidisreducedtoabout½cup,8to10minutes.Removefromtheheatandstirinthecreamandmustard.Seasonwith salt. Pour the sauce over the chops and serve with mashed or steamedpotatoesandagreensalad.

AppleandChestnut–StuffedPorkLoinwithCiderSauceandCider-GlazedRootVegetables(page99)

AppleandChestnut–StuffedPorkLoinwithCiderSauce

A simple stuffing, sweetenedwith apples and chestnutsandlightlyaccentedwithcinnamonandsage,isrolledupinsideabutterfliedporkloininthiscenterpiecedish.Whenyouslicetheloin,youseetheswirlofstuffing.Servedwithaverysimpleciderpansauce, it’s impressiveenoughforcompany,butquiteeasytodo.APPLE NOTES: A certain amount of acidity is needed here to stand up to the

stuffing,butanyfirm-tartvarietywillworkwell(seepage30).MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanprep the loin throughstep3up toaday inadvance.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerate.NOTES: You can butterfly your own pork loin if you like, but if you’re notconfident of your meat-cutting skills, my advice is to ask your butcher tobutterflyittoa¾-inchthickness.Vacuum-packedroastedchestnutsareavailableatgourmetandWholeFoodsstores.EQUIPMENT:12-to14-inchskillet;small(approximately12-by14-inch)roastingpan;six18-inchlengthsofbutcher’stwine;1-quartsaucepan


FORTHEPORK

3-poundbonelessporkloinroast,butterflied(seeNotes)2teaspoonskoshersalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHESTUFFING

2tablespoonsoliveoil1tablespoon(14g)saltedbutter1smallwhiteonion,finelychopped1celerystalk,endstrimmed,cutinto¼-inchcubes1largefirm-tartapple(about8ounces;seeAppleNotes),unpeeled,cored,andcutinto½-inchcubes

7freshsageleaves,finelychopped½teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper¼teaspoongroundcinnamon5ounces(142g)whiteorwhole-wheatbread,crustsremoved, torn into1-inchpieces

5ounces(142g)vacuum-packedroastedchestnuts(seeNotes)1egg,lightlybeaten½cup(120ml)low-sodiumchickenbroth

FORTHESAUCE

1½cups(240ml)freshapplecider,divided

2teaspoonscornstarch

SlicedAppleandChestnut–StuffedPorkLoinwithCiderSauce(page145)andCider-GlazedRootVegetables(page99)

1 •Thenight beforeyou roast thepork, season all overwith salt andpepper.Using ameat pounderor a rollingpin, pound themeat out to an even½-inchthickness.Coverwith plasticwrap and refrigerate (you can skip this step andseasonthemeatrightbeforecooking,buttheresultsofpre-saltingareincrediblygood).

2 • Combine the olive oil and butter in a skillet overmedium heat. Add the

onionandceleryandcook, stirringoccasionally,until theonion is translucent,about5minutes.Addtheapple,sage,salt,pepper,andcinnamon.Stirandcookfor 5moreminutes, until the apples are tender. Pour themixture into a largebowl.Inafoodprocessor,pulsethebreaduntilitformsfluffybreadcrumbs.Addthechestnutsandpulseuntilthey’reroughlychopped.Addthebreadcrumbsandchestnutstotheonion-applemixture.Addtheeggandchickenbrothandstirtomixevenly.Letcooltoroomtemperature.Meanwhile,preheattheovento375°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.

3•Unfoldtheporkloinandlayhorizontallyonthecounter.Spoonthestuffingover themeat, spreading it evenlywith a spatula and leaving a 2-inch borderalongthetopedge.Rollthemeatupoverthestuffing,jelly-rollstyle,fromthebottomtothetop.Turnseamsidedown.Usingasharpknife,lightlyscoreanyextrafatonthesurfaceoftheloininadiamondpattern.Tietheloinupatregularintervalswithpiecesoftwineandtransferittotheroastingpan.

4•Pour½cupoftheciderinthebottomofthepanandputthepanintheoven.Roast the loin for 30 minutes. Baste the meat with the pan juices, then addanother½cupofcider.Return to theovenand roast,basting regularly,untilaquick-readthermometerinsertedintothemiddleoftheloinreads150°F,50to60moreminutes.

5•Transferthemeattoacuttingboardandcoverlooselywithaluminumfoil.Scrapethepanbottomwithawoodenspoontodislodgeanybrownedbits,thenpourthepanjuicesintoalargeglassmeasuringcupandaddtheremainingcider.Youshouldhaveabout1½cupsliquid.Pour¼cupof thecidermixture intoasmallsaucepanovermedium-highheat.Addthecornstarchandwhiskuntilit’sdissolved.Addtheremainingcidermixtureandbring toasimmer.Reduce theheat to medium and cook, gently stirring with the whisk, until the sauce isslightly thickened, about 5minutes. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.Pourthesauceintoawarmedbowl.

6•Cuttheloininto¾-inch-thickslicesandarrangeonawarmedplatter.Servethehotcidersauceontheside.

Pan-SearedSalmonwithCider-GlazedOnions

It’s the Holy Grail of dinner party recipes: somethingfancyenoughforcompany,butwithjustahandfulofingredientsandtwosteps,easyenoughtohaveonthetableinjust45minutes.You’llbeamazedathownicelyapplecidercomplementsthecaramelizedonions.Youcanalsoservetheglazedonionswithgrilledsteak,chicken,orpork.MAKE-AHEAD TIP: Prepare the onions up to one day ahead, then gently warmbeforeserving.EQUIPMENT: 12- to 14-inch skillet; 10- to 12-inch ovenproof skillet, preferablynonstick


2tablespoonsoliveoil,divided1redonion,cutintoverythinrings1teaspoonkoshersalt,divided1teaspoongranulatedsugar2cups(480ml)freshapplecider½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper4(5-ounceor140g)center-cutpiecessalmonfillet(1to1½inchesthick)1tablespoonmincedchives(optional)

1•Heat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonion,½ teaspoonof the salt, and the sugar.Cook, stirringoften,until theonions are lightly golden, 8 to 10minutes.Add the cider and bring to a boil,scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to lift any brown bits.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilthesauceisreducedtoaglazeandtheonionsareverysoft,8 to10minutesmore.Cover thepanandkeepitwarmover lowheatwhileyoupreparethefish.

2•Preheattheovento400°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Inasmallbowl,stir thepepperandremaining½teaspoonsalt together, thensprinkle themixtureoverthesalmonflesh(notskin).Inthesmallerskilletovermedium-highheat, warm the remaining tablespoon of oil until shimmering. Put the salmon

skinsideupinthepanandcook,withoutmovingorpoking,untilithasanicesear, 3 to 5minutes.With tongs, gently flip the salmon over and transfer theskillettotheoven.Roastuntilcookedthrough(cutinmiddletocheck),5to10minutesmore.Serveinthepanoronawarmedplatter, toppedwiththeglazedonionsand,ifyou’dlike,asprinklingofchives.

CHAPTERSEVEN

PANCAKES,DONUTS,BISCUITS,ANDBREADS

Melrose

ONHEIRLOOMSANDCIDER:

AVisittoPovertyLaneOrchardsinLebanon,NewHampshire

“Yougottaseethisone.Thisisonewildapple.”StephenWoodboundsover to a large tree hangingheavywithpale green,

russetedfruit.Hepullsanappleoffabranch,andhandsittome.It’scrisp,abitrough-textured,andsweet,butalsoastringent,liketeafromleaveslefttoolonginthecup.ThisisaMedailled’Or,oneofdozensoftraditionalFrench,British,and American apples that Wood grows at his Poverty Lane Orchards in therollinghillsofLebanon,NewHampshire.

The apple inmy hand is one ofmany varieties thatWood blends into hisacclaimedFarnumHillciders,whichrankamongthebestcidersinthecountry.Andthoughit’snotafruitI’dgladlyeatoutofhand,thebitternessItasteisallfor a good cause, deriving from the same tannins (or, in science-speak, plant

polyphenols) thatgiveredwinestructureandnuance.Much likeawinemaker,Wood oversees a process inwhich his apples are pressed to extract the juice,whichisthenfermented,blended,bottled,andaged.

Inmakinghisciders,Woodsayshisgoalisnotjusttopreservehischildhoodhome,andhisfamily’sorchardsandwayoflife,buttoeducateconsumersaboutfinecidersand,ultimately,toreestablishAmericans’affectionforcider.Andit’seasy to cheerhis efforts.Not just because the ciders are sodelicious, but alsobecause,ifyoubelieveineatinglocallyandsupportinglocalfarmersanddon’tlive inCalifornia, itmakes somuchmore sense todrinkmore local cider andlessshipped-from-afarwine.

But back to the apples! With names like Chisel Jersey, Ashton Bitter,SomersetRedstreak,Foxwhelp,andKingstonBlack,mostofWood’sapplesareheirlooms.Butwhatdoes“heirloom”mean,exactly?

Put simply, heirloom apples are antiques—traditional varieties reproducedfor some number of decades or centuries via grafting to perpetuate winningcharacteristics.Incommonparlance,heirloomsaredefinedbywhattheyarenot:that is, newly bred, mass-produced commodity fruit. That’s not a terriblyscientific definition, but it functions well. The Granny Smith you buy atSafeway? Not an heirloom. The Seek-No-Further you picked up at the localfarmers’market?Anheirloom.

Withotherplants,suchasberriesandtomatoes,heirloomsaredefinedmorerigorously, describing varieties grown from seed and pollinated by naturalmeans,suchas insectsorwind(this is incontrastwithhybridplants, inwhichoneplantisdeliberatelyhand-pollinatedwiththepollenfromanotherplant).

Applesdon’treproducetruefromseed,sotherigorousdefinitioncan’tapply.Throughout history, the whole business of perpetuating one apple variety oranotherhasbeencoveredwithhuman fingerprints.Andyet, the“heirloom”or“antique”labelismorethanjustacharmingbitofmarketinglanguage.Ithintsatthehistoricdiversityofthisancientfruit—andremindsushowmuchofthathasbeenlost.

Whichis justonereasonwhyWood’seffortsaresoimportant.Mostof theBritishandFrenchvarietiesthatheisgrowingdatebackmuchfurtherthantheirAmericancounterparts—hundredsifnotthousandsofyears.

He’squicktopointoutthatFarnumHillisn’tsimplyanapplemuseum,andhe doesn’t only grow heirlooms. “We grow things that growwell here in ourglacial tillandthataren’tgrowncommonly.Mostof themareoldvarietiesbutsomearefromasrecentlyasthe1920s.”

Anobleeffort,andapracticalone.Woodhasbeengrowingtheseoddapplesfornearly thirtyyears, since realizing in the early1980s that the commoditiesmarket for his standard issue McIntosh and Golden Delicious fruits wasevaporating.Whythiswashappeningiscomplicated,butoneclearreasonisthepublic’s tastefor larger,moreuniform,waxedapplesfromthewarmer,sunnierWest Coast (and, in the spring, from Southern Hemisphere locales like NewZealandandAustralia).“IrippedoutacresandacresofMacsandCortlandsandreplanted them with the weird varieties that are now our mainstay,” he says.Woodarguesthatwhatsomeofhisappleslackinlushgoodlooks,theymakeupforinflavor.“ThecoldnightshereinNewHampshire,themoderatefroststhatthreatenbutdon’tdestroyapples lead toa rushofphotosynthates [specifically,sugars]intheapples,”Woodsays.“Theconditionsthatmakeourapplesgrowtostunningstandardsalsothreatenourcrop.”

Hestartedmakingcidersin1992asanattempttomarketamoreprofitableproductwhileremainingwhathemostwantedtobe,anappleman.“Ifweweregoing to do this with any satisfaction, we had to make something with highinherent value,” he says. “We came this close to expanding our retail, but thethought of coming home smelling of potpourri and candles to say we were‘makingalivingofftheland’didn’tdoit.”

HebeganexperimentingwithantiqueEuropeancidervarieties like the tinyred Wickson and the Ashton Bitter, and traveled to England to study cider-making.“Ispentalotoftimesniffingthroughstuff.”By2001,hehadbecomeaskilledenoughcidermakerthatFarnumHillearnedravesinpublicationsliketheNewYorkTimes,Saveur,andMarthaStewartLiving.

It’stemptingtoendthisstorybysimplysayingthatStephenWoodsavedhisfarmthroughcider.But,ofcourse,it’sneverthatsimple.Ciderremainsanicheproduct, and aswell asFarnumHill hasdone, it remains a struggle toget theproductintorestaurantsandstoresaroundthecountry.Still,Woodhasreasontobe optimistic, given the growing interest in artisanal products. He’s alsoencouragedby thegrowingcidermarket thathasgiven rise to regionalgroupslike the Northwest Cider Society, the Michigan Hard Cider Club, and fanwebsiteslikeoldtimecider.com.Woodknowsthatifhecangetenoughpeopletotryhiscidersorhisfreshapples,theyprettymuchspeakforthemselves.

Case inpoint:At theendofourvisit,Woodsayshewants toshowmehisall-time favorite cooking apple (his overall favorite is Spitzenburg).What anoffer!Wewalk down a long row of heirloom trees, kicking through the longgrass,untilwereachacraggyspecimenwithpalegreen,knobbyfruitwith the

faintest blush of pink. This, he says, is the Calville Blanc d’Hiver, the mostprizedheirloomofFrance,andthetraditionalappleusedin thefamousFrenchtartetatin.Theapplefeelsdenseandheavyinmyhand—asuresignofagoodbakerthatwon’tdissolveintheoven.Itakeabite,eyeswideningattheamazingflood of tart, honeyed juice. I taste lemons and spice and raspberries. It’sstartlinglygood,andIimmediatelylamentthefactthatIcan’tsimplywalkdowntomylocalmarket tobuymore.Woodwrapsupseveralapples in tissue(theybruiseeasily)andsendsmeonmyway.ThatnightImakethetartetatinofmydreams.Fortherecipe,seepage203.

VermontAppleCiderDonuts(page153)withMulledAppleCider(page276)

VermontAppleCiderDonuts

It’s a cider-maker’s tradition to use some of the freshlypressedjuicetomake lightly tangy,apple-scenteddonuts like these.Thecideraddsmorethanflavor,though;itsaciditymakesdonutsmoretender.

Ihave two favorite spots forbuying these treats:AtkinsFarm inAmherst,Massachusetts,andColdHollowCiderMillinWaterbury,Vermont.AndwhenIcan’tbethere,Imakemyown.NOTES:Boiledapplecidergives thesedonutsavery rich, slightly tangy flavor.You can buy boiled cider in some gourmet and Whole Foods stores; fromWood’sCiderMill inSpringfield,Vermont (woodscidermill.com); or from theKing Arthur Flour catalog. Alternatively, you can boil your own cider bysimmering1½cupsoffreshappleciderdownto⅓cupinabout25minutes—itjustwon’tbeasconcentratedasthecommercialproduct.

Fryingfoodsatthepropertemperatureguaranteescrispandlightresults.Useaninstant-readthermometertomonitorthetemperatureduringfrying,andadjusttheheatasneeded.EQUIPMENT:Hand-heldorstandingmixer;2largebakingsheets;parchmentpaperorwaxpaper;3-inchdonut cutteror2biscuit cutters (one3 inchesandone1inch); 4- to 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot; instant-readthermometer(seeNotes)

MAKES:Abouteighteen3-inchdonuts•ACTIVETIME:1½hours•TOTALTIME:1hour,45minutes

1cup(210g)granulatedsugar5tablespoons(70g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature2largeeggs,atroomtemperature3½cups(505g)all-purposeflour,plusadditionalforworksurface1¼teaspoonstablesalt2teaspoonsbakingpowder1teaspoonbakingsoda1½teaspoonsgroundcinnamon½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg½cup(120ml)lowfatbuttermilk

⅓cup(80ml)boiledapplecider(seeNotes)1tablespoonvanillaextractCanolaorsaffloweroilforfryingCinnamon-sugar (1½ cups sugar mixed with 3 tablespoons groundcinnamon)orconfectioners’sugarforsprinkling

1 • In a largebowlusingahand-heldor standingmixer fittedwith thewhiskattachment,beattogetherthesugarandbutteruntilthemixtureispaleandfluffy,4to6minutes.Addtheeggs,oneatatime,beatingforaminuteaftereach.Inamediumbowl,whisktogetherflour,salt,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,cinnamon,andnutmeg;setaside.

2 • Pour the buttermilk, boiled cider, and vanilla into the sugar-butter-eggmixture. Mix well, and don’t worry if the mixture looks a bit curdled; it’llsmooth itself out. Add the flour mixture and gently mix just until fullymoistened.Themixturemayappearabitlumpy,butthemostimportantthingisnottoovermix.

3 • Line the baking sheets with wax paper or parchment paper and dustgenerouslywithflour.Turnthedoughoutontoonebakingsheetandgentlypatintoa¾-inch-thickness.Sprinkledoughwithadditionalflour,coverwithplasticwrapandputinthefreezerfor10minutestofirmup.Removethedoughfromthe freezer and use a lightly floured 3-inch donut cutter (or two concentricbiscuitcutters)tocutoutabout18donutswithholes.Youcangatherthescrapsandre-rollasneeded,butyoumayneedtochillthedoughmoretofirmitup.Putthecutdonutsontheotherbakingsheetasyougo,thentransfertothefreezerfor5minutestofirmupagain.

4•Preheattheovento200°Fandsetarackinthemiddleposition.Setaplatelinedwithafewlayersofpapertowelsnearby.InaDutchovenorlargepot,heat3inchesofoil to370°F(testwithathermometer).Drop3or4donutsintotheoil,beingcarefulnottocrowdthepan.Cookuntilbrownedononeside,about1minute, then flip over and cook until browned on that side, about oneminutemore.Transfer thedonuts to thepaper-towel-linedplateandkeepwarm in theoven as you cook the rest. Repeat with the remaining dough (if you find itgettingtoosoftasyouworkyourwaythroughthebatches,popitinthefreezer

again for 10 minutes). When the donuts are cool enough to handle, but stillwarm,sprinklealloverwiththecinnamon-sugarorconfectioners’sugar.Serveimmediately.

BakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbTopping

Here’smygo-tobrunchdishforcompany. It’s like lightbreadpuddingwithapples,andthehazelnutcrumbtoppinggivesitanuttyflavorkickandwelcomecrunch.While it looks impressive, it’s soeasy toputtogether that I’ve prepped it half-asleep after waking at midnight with therealizationthatguestswereduethenextmorning.APPLE NOTES: The crumb topping provides plenty of crunch in this dish, so Ipreferatender-sweetapple(seepage30),whichwillcookupsoftandsilkyandmelt nicely into the bread and custard.Any variety in the categorywillworkwell,butifyou’reluckyenoughtogetyourhandsontheCox’sOrangePippin,thisdishisagreatwaytoenjoyitsrichflavor.NOTE:Don’tworryaboutremovingthehazelnuts’paperyskin.Thetoppingissofinelychoppedinthefoodprocessorthattheskinswon’tbedetectible.EQUIPMENT:9-by13-inchbakingdish

MAKES:6to8servings•ACTIVETIME:30minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,30minutes,plusatleast2hourschillingtime.

FORTHEFRENCHTOAST

Butterforgreasingpan6largeeggs3cups(710ml)wholeor2%milk¼cup(60g)packedlightbrownsugar2teaspoonsvanillaextract1teaspoonkoshersalt1teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1 pound (450 g) loaf challah or brioche, cut in half lengthwise, then cutcrosswiseinto¾-inch-thickslices

2largetender-sweetapples(about1poundtotal:seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andsliced¼-inchthick

FORTHETOPPING

¾cup(100g)wholehazelnuts(seeNote)⅓cup(75g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar¼cup(36g)all-purposeflour4tablespoons(½stick;57g)saltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes

1 •Thenightbefore (orat least2hoursahead),generouslygrease thebakingdish with butter. Whisk together the eggs, milk, brown sugar, vanilla, salt,cinnamon,andnutmeg.Arrangethebreadslicesintheprepareddishsothattheyoverlap.Stickappleslicesinbetweenthebreadslices,thenpourtheeggmixtureover all. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours and up toovernight.

2•Preheat theovento350°F.Inafoodprocessor,pulse thehazelnuts,brownsugar,flour,andbuttertoformacrumblymixture.Sprinklethetoppingoverthebread.

3•Bakeuntilthecustardissetandthetoppingisgoldenbrown,about1hour.Letcoolonarackfor15minutes,thenservefromthedishwithmaplesyrup.

DutchBaby

DutchBaby

Also called a German pancake, this egg-leavenedbreakfastdishislikeasweeterversionofYorkshirepuddingandaclosecousinofthepopover.Iloveitbecauseitsolvesmyeternalbreakfastdilemma,providingthesweetnessofpancakes,withoutthesleepinessthatfollowsanall-carb feast. It also takes very little time to make, but looks so impressive, allgoldenandpuffedup,whenyoubringittothetable.

APPLE NOTES: A sweeter apple pleases my morning taste buds better than anacidic one. Favorite firm-sweet varieties include Baldwin, Ginger Gold,Gravenstein,Honeycrisp,Jazz,andPiñata.EQUIPMENT:12-inchcastironorotherheavy-bottomedskillet


¾cup(110g)all-purposeflour1tablespoongranulatedsugar½teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoonkoshersalt3tablespoons(43g)unsaltedbutter1½largefirm-sweetapples(about12ouncestotal;seeAppleNotes)peeled,cored,andcutinto⅛-inch-thickrings

5largeeggs1cup(240ml)wholeor2%milkConfectioners’sugarforsprinklingLemonwedges

DutchBabypancakes(page159)puffupintheovenbutquicklylosetheirheight.

1•Sifttheflourintoamediumbowl,thenstirinthesugar,cinnamon,andsalt.In a separate bowl,whisk together the eggs andmilk for about 1minute; themixtureshouldbefrothyanddrizzlefromthewhiskinathinstream.Setaside.

2 •Preheat theoven to 425°F and set a rack in themiddle position.Melt thebutterinaskilletovermediumheat.Laytheappleslicesinthebutterandcook,withoutstirring,for2minutes.Gentlyfliptheslicesandcookuntiltender,about2moreminutes.

3•Workingquickly,addtheflourmixturetotheeggmixtureandwhiskjusttocombine. Pour the batter into the hot skilletwith the apples, then transfer theskillet to the oven. Bake until the pancake is puffed and golden, 10 to 14minutes. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar and serve immediately from theskillet,withlemonwedgestosquirtoverthetop.

Oatmeal-ApplePancakes

ThefirstreallygreatpancakesIevermadecamefromarecipeinthe1970sclassicTheVegetarianEpicurebyAnnaThomas.Theywere made with cottage cheese, eggs, and a little flour, and required you toseparate theeggyolks from theeggwhitesandbeat theyolkswith thecheesewhilewhipping thewhites into a foam. It seemed like a lot of work, but theresultsweresofantasticallylightandfluffythatIwassold.

That same technique guides this recipe,which folds hearty oats and dicedapples into a standard buttermilk pancakebatter, but, thanks to thosewhippedwhites,stillcooksuptoanairylightnessthatwillforeverchangehowyouthinkaboutpancakes.Servewithmaplesyrup.APPLE NOTES: Tender-sweet varieties, such as Fameuse, Cox’s Orange Pippin,Fuji,andGalawillsoftenquickly,justinthetimeittakestocookthepancake.Foracompletelist,seepage30.NOTE:Quick-cookingoatsarenotthesamethingasinstantoats.Ifyou’rehavingdifficultyidentifyingthem,lookforthetypethatcookin3to5minutes.EQUIPMENT:Foodprocessor;12-to14-inchskillet

MAKES:20pancakes•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:45minutes

1½cups(215g)all-purposeflour½cup(45g)quick-cookingoats,alsocalledquickoats(seeNote)¾teaspoontablesalt½teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg2cups(475ml)buttermilk

4tablespoons(½stick;57g)saltedbutter,meltedandcooled2eggs,yolksandwhitesseparated½cup(75g)dicedtender-sweetapple(seeAppleNotes)Vegetableoilorbutterforfrying

1•Preheattheovento200°F.Inafoodprocessor,combinetheflour,oats,salt,bakingsoda,cinnamon,andnutmeg.Whirlfor10secondstobreaktheoatsintosmallflakes.Setaside.

2 • In amedium bowl,whisk together the buttermilk,melted butter, and eggyolks.Setaside.Inanotherbowlusingawhisk,ahand-heldmixer,orastandingmixer,whipthewhitestosoftpeaks—thatis,untiltheyarefirmandglossybutnotstiff.

3 • Pour the flour mixture into the buttermilk mixture and whisk until justcombinedbutstillfairlylumpy.Usingaspatula,gentlyfoldaboutathirdofthewhipped eggwhites into the batter.Add the remaining eggwhites and gentlyfoldagain.Gentlyfoldintheapples.

4 • Set a skillet over medium heat and add a tablespoon of vegetable oil orbutter.Swirl tocoat thepan.Whenthefat issizzling,dropthebatter in¼-cupportionsandcookuntil thepancakesarebrownedonthebottomandtheedgesbegintolookdry,about5minutes.Turnthecakeswithaspatulaandbrownontheotherside,1to2minutesmore.Addmoreoilorbutterasnecessarytokeepthepancakesfromsticking.Servepancakesasyoucookthem(mypreference)orkeepthemwarminasinglelayeronabakingsheetintheoven.

BakedAppleOatmealPudding

Thisislikeabreadpuddingmadewithoatmeal.It’sjustas deliciouswhen made ahead and reheated, so it’s great to serve forovernightguests.OrbakeabatchonSundayforcozyandnutritiousbreakfaststhroughtheweek.Servewithplainyogurtoradollopofcrèmefraîche.APPLENOTES:Firm-sweetapples (seepage30)provide just theright texture for

thisdish, and theirmilder acidity adds anice contrast to thedried fruit. I likearomaticvarietieslikeJonagold,GingerGold,Piñata,Jazz,andSweeTango.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Bakethepuddinguptothreedaysahead,thencoverwithfoilandreheatat250°Funtilwarmedthrough,about25minutes.NOTE:Rolledoatsarethickerthaninstantorquick-cookingoatsandtakelongertocook,buttheyhaveanicechewinessthatworksverywellinthisdish.EQUIPMENT:2½-quartsoufflédishoran8-by8-inchbakingpan


Butterforgreasingpan2cups(180g)rolledoats,alsocalledold-fashionedoats(seeNote)1½teaspoonsbakingpowder¾teaspoonkoshersalt⅓cup(40g)choppedpecans⅓ cup (about 55 g) roughly chopped dried fruit, such as cranberries,apricots,andraisins

1¾cups(175g)dicedfirm-sweetapple(about1½large;seeAppleNotes)2cups(474ml)2%milkor1%milk3largeeggs⅓cup(75g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar½teaspoongroundcinnamon

1•Preheattheovento325°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Greasethesoufflédishorbakingpan.Inalargebowl,stirtogethertheoats,bakingpowder,andsalt.Addthepecans,driedfruit,andapple.

2•Inanotherbowl,whisktogetherthemilk,eggs,brownsugar,andcinnamon.Pourthismixtureovertheoatmixtureandstirtocombine.

3•Pourthepuddingintotheprepareddish.Bakeuntilthetopisgoldenbrownandthecenterisnolongerliquid,55to65minutes.Spoonintobowlsandservewarm.

Apple-StuffedBiscuitBuns

Iloveagoodcinnamonbun—evenmorewithsomedicedappleswrappedupin theswirls—butI’mrarelyorganizedenoughtoprepayeastdoughhoursinadvanceofbaking.Thesebuns,inspiredbytheonesIoncetasted at the River Run Café in Plainfield, Vermont, are made with a quickbiscuitdough.Problemsolved!APPLE NOTES: This is, indeed, a rich dish. And normally, I like a more acidicapple when cooking with a fair amount of butter. However, these buns just

neededsomethingsweet,butstillfirm.SomefavoritesforthisdishincludeJazz,Pink Lady, and Piñata, for their bright, vibrant flavors. See page 30 for acompletelistoffirm-sweetapples.EQUIPMENT:8-by8-inchbakingpan;parchmentpaper


FORTHEFILLING

1¼cups(290g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar5 tablespoons (70g) saltedbutter, cut intochunks,plusmore forgreasingpan

1½teaspoonsgroundcinnamon1 large firm-sweetapple (about8ounces; seeAppleNotes),peeled, cored,andcutinto¼-inchcubes

FORTHEBUNS

½cup(120ml)buttermilk1largeegg3cups(435g)all-purposeflour1tablespoongranulatedsugar2½teaspoonsbakingpowder1½teaspoonskoshersalt½teaspoonbakingsoda12tablespoons(1½sticks,170g)coldsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes

1•Greasethebakingpanwithalittlebitofbutter;setaside.Makethefilling:Ina medium bowl, combine the brown sugar, the 5 tablespoons butter, and thecinnamon.Usingapastrycutter(orfork),cutthebutterintothesugar,workingitinuntilthemixturelookslikewetsand.Putintherefrigeratortochillwhileyoupreparethedough.

2 • In a small bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and egg; set aside. In amediumbowl,whisk together theflour,sugar,bakingpowder,salt,andbakingsoda.Sprinklethebutterovertheflourmixtureanduseyourfingerstoworkitin(rub your thumb against your fingertips, smearing the butter as you do). Stopwhenmixture looks like sand studdedwith little chunks.Add theeggmixture

andstirwithaforkjustuntilthedoughbeginstoholdtogether.Itwilllookquiteraggedandnotfullyblended,butstopthere.Youwanttopreventthebutterfrommelting into the dough—those little chunks will create a flakier texture oncebaked.

3•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Dumpthedoughoutontoapieceofparchmentpaperandkneadjustenoughtobringitalltogetherintoaball.Usingarollingpinandbenchscraper(orspatula),roll thedough(stillonparchment)intoa9-by15-inchrectanglewithstraightsides.

4•Sprinklethedoughalloverwiththebrownsugarmixture,leavinga1-inchborder across one of the longer edges. Top with the apples and gently pressdown.Workingfromthelongedgeoppositetheborder,rollthedoughuptightly,jelly-roll-style,usingtheparchmentasanaid.Whenyoureachtheborder,givetherollasqueezeandturnseamsidedown.

5 •Cut the roll crosswise into 9 equal buns and arrange in the prepared pan.Bakeuntilgoldenbrownandbubbling,30to35minutes.Servewarm,rightfromthepan.

AppleCranberryScones

Scones and biscuits can be intimidating for first-timers,with all the dire warnings about working fast and not over-kneading.Here’sthesimpletrick:Erronthesideofashaggier,rougherdough,ratherthanaperfectlysmoothone.Aslongasitholdstogether,it’sfine.Anothertrick:Usedriedfruit,whichkeepsthedoughlighterbynotaddingalotofextramoisture.Servewiththejamofyourchoice,extrabutter,orclottedcream.EQUIPMENT:Largeunrimmedbakingsheet;parchmentpaper


⅓cup(80ml)buttermilk1largeegg3cups(435g)all-purposeflour

⅓cup(70g)granulatedsugar2½teaspoonsbakingpowder¾teaspoontablesalt½teaspoonbakingsoda12tablespoons(1½sticks;170g)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes½cup(40g)choppeddriedapples¼cup(33g)choppeddriedsweetenedcranberries1tablespoonfreshlygratedorangezest(optional)

1•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Inasmallbowl,whisktogetherthebuttermilkandegg.Setaside.

2•Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,salt,andbakingsoda.Sprinklethebutteroverthemixtureanduseyourfingerstoworkitin, rubbingyour thumbagainstyour fingertips, smearing thebutter asyoudo.Stopwhenthemixturelookslikecornmealstuddedwithpea-sizedbitsofbutter(workquicklysothebutterdoesn’tmelt).

3 • Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture, together with the apples,cranberries,andorangezest (ifusing)andusea fork tocombine.Themixturewillstilllookragged;don’tovermix.Dumpthedoughoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneadjustenoughtobringitalltogetherintoaball.Divideinhalfandpresseachhalfintoa6-to7-inchdisk.

4•Transfer thedisks toaparchment-linedbakingsheet.Useaknifeorbenchscrapertocutthedisksintosixwedgeseach(donotseparatethepieces).Bakeuntilgoldenbrownandpuffed—turningthebakingsheethalfwaythrough—25to30minutes.Transfertoaservingplateandservewarm.

Apple-StuddedBrownButterStreuselCoffeeCake

Apple-StuddedBrownButterStreuselCoffeeCake

Cooking butter until it turns a rich brown color adds anutty flavor to this addictive coffee cake. In fact, I don’t think it’spossible to pack in more appealing elements here: buttermilk batter, warmspices,streuseltopping,thebrownedbutter,andlotsofapples.APPLENOTES:Thetextureofthiscakeshouldbeextremelytender,whichiswhyatender-sweetappleisimportant.Theapplesshouldn’taddcrunchinthecakeas

much as little pockets of flavor. The popular supermarket varieties, Fuji andGala,areagreatchoicehere.Foracompletelist,gotopage30.EQUIPMENT:9-inchcakepanwithremovablesides


FORTHETOPPING

½cup(115g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar½cup(72g)all-purposeflour½teaspoongroundcinnamon3 tablespoons (57 g) butter, cut into½-inch cubes, plusmore for greasingpan

8firm-sweetappleslices(seeAppleNotes),unpeeled,forgarnish

FORTHECAKE

10⅔tablespoons(⅔cup;151g)saltedbutter2cups(290g)all-purposeflour½cup(115g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar½cup(105g)granulatedsugar2teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoontablesalt1teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg1largeegg,plus1eggyolk1cup(240ml)buttermilk2 medium tender-sweet apples (about 12 ounces total; see Apple Notes),peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inchcubes

1•Butterthecakepan.Setaside.

2•Makethetopping:Inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthebrownsugar,flour,andcinnamon.Sprinkle the3 tablespoonsofbuttercubesover themixtureanduseyourfingertipstoworkitintoformacrumblytopping.Chillintherefrigerator

whileyoupreparethecake.

3 •Preheat theoven to350°F.Make thecake: Ina smallpan,melt thebutterovermediumheatuntil itbegins to turnamediumnutbrown,6 to8minutes.Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. In a large bowl, whisktogether the flour, sugars, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices. In amedium bowl, beat the egg and egg yolk to blend. Whisk in the butter andbuttermilk, then pour the liquidmixture into the flourmixture and stir just tocombine. Fold in the apple cubes and pour the batter into the prepared pan.Sprinklethetoppingoverthecakeandarrangetheappleslicesaroundthetop,lightlypressingthemintothetopping.Bakeuntilthetopisgoldenbrownandacaketesterinsertedintothecentercomesoutclean,45to55minutes.Setonacooling rack for 20 minutes, then check to see if the sides of the cake arestickingtothepaninanyspots.Ifso,useathinknifetoloosenthem.Carefullyremove the sides of pan, transfer to a platter, and serve warm or at roomtemperature.

Apple-ApricotKuchen

AkuchenistraditionallyarichGermanyeast-raisedcakefilledwithfruitorcheeseanddottedaroundthetopwithjamorfreshfruit.It’slikeacrossbetweenacoffeecakeandatart.MyfriendAdeenaSussman,afoodwriter, cameupwith the time-saving ideaofusingbakingpowder as therisingagent.Itworkedbeautifully,andI’mforanythingthatcangetfreshpastryon the table sooner. As with traditional kuchen, this dish can be served forbreakfastorasadessert.Servefromthepanasis,orwithadollopofwhippedcreamandasprinkleofcinnamonsugar.APPLENOTES: Iparticularly likePiñataandJazzvarieties in this recipebecausebothhavetropicalflavorsthatcomplementtheapricotjam.However,youreallycan’tgowrongwithanyfirm-sweetvariety(seepage30foralist),sofeelfreetomixitup.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanprepthedoughthroughstep1adayaheadofbaking;justwrapandrefrigerate.EQUIPMENT:10-inchdeep-dishpieplate


FORTHEDOUGH

2⅓cups(338g)all-purposeflour1cup(210g)granulatedsugar4teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspoontablesalt2largeeggs,atroomtemperature16tablespoons(2sticks;227g)saltedbutter,atroomtemperature

FORTHEFILLING

4largefirm-sweetapples(about2poundstotal;seeAppleNotes)¼cup(51g)plus1teaspoongranulatedsugar1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice2tablespoonsapricotjam2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

1•Tomakethedough,puttheflour,sugar,bakingpowderandsaltinastandingmixer (or in a large bowl if using a hand-held mixer). With the whiskattachment,stir themixtureon lowspeedfor10seconds tocombine, thenaddthebutterandeggsandmixatmedium-highspeeduntil theingredientsformaball, about 1 minute. Divide the dough into two equal pieces, wrap each inplasticwrap,andchillfor30minutes.

2 •Meanwhile,make the filling:Peel, core, and slice the apples into¼-inch-thickslices.Sprinkle¼cupsugarandthelemonjuiceovertheapplesandstir.Setaside.

3•Preheattheovento350°F,andsetaracktothemiddleposition.Pressoneballofdoughintothepieplatesothatitcoversthebottom.Coverwiththeslicedapples.Topalloverwithsmalldabsofjam.Dividetheremainingballofdoughinto10 equal-sizedballs anddistribute evenlyon topof the apples.Theywillspreadoutas theycook.Sprinklewith theremaining1 teaspoonsugarand thecinnamon.Bakefor40minutes,oruntilthedoughisgoldenbrown.Removetoarackandletcoolfor20minutes.

ApplePumpkinWalnutMuffins

Here’sagreatwaytostartoffafallmorning:flavorsofpumpkin, spice, apples, and walnuts will warm you up, and the simplemethodmakesthesemuffinseasytoprepareonshortnotice.APPLENOTES: I like firm-sweet apples (see page 30) in thesemuffins for theirmoredelicateflavor,butfirm-tartappleswillalsoworkwell.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanprep thisrecipe throughstep1 thenightbefore, thenfinishitinthemorning.Youcanalsofreezethefinishedmuffinsinazip-topbagforuptotwomonths.NOTE: I love the subtle nutty flavor that walnut oil brings to the mix, butvegetableoil(suchascanolaorcornoil)isfinetoo.EQUIPMENT:One15-cupmuffintinortwo12-cuptinsof⅓-cupcapacity.

MAKES:15muffins•ACTIVETIME:20minutes•TOTALTIME:45minutes

1⅔(242g)cupsall-purposeflour½cup(105g)granulatedsugar½cup(115g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar1teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoongroundginger¼teaspoongroundcloves1cup(240ml)cannedpumpkinpuree(notpumpkinpiefilling)2largeeggs½cup(120ml)walnutoilorvegetableoil(seeNote)1 large firm-sweetapple (about8ounces; seeAppleNotes),peeled, cored,andcutinto¼-inchcubes

¾cup(65g)walnuts,chopped1teaspoonvanillaextract15walnuthalvesforgarnish(optional)

1•Preheattheovento375°F.Linethemuffincupswithpaperlinersorgreasewith butter. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, cinnamon, salt,baking powder, baking soda, ginger, and cloves. In a medium bowl, whisktogetherthepumpkinpuree,eggs,oil,apple,choppedwalnuts,andvanilla.

2 •Add thewet ingredients to the dry and stir to combine (do not overmix).Divide the batter among the 15muffin cups, filling each about three-quartersfull,andtopeachwithawalnuthalfifdesired.Bakeuntilthemuffinsarepuffedandgoldenandacaketestercomesoutclean,20to25minutes.Letthemuffinscoolonarackfor15minutes,thenservewarm.

MorningGloryMuffins

TheMorningGloryCaféwasafamousNantucketIslandgatheringspotin the1970sand1980s;itwastherethatchef/ownerPamMcKinstry introduced the muffins that would immortalize her restaurant.Gourmet magazine printed the recipe in 1981, and they began appearing atbakeriesandcafésaroundthecountry.Packedastheyarewithapples,walnuts,coconut,pineapple,andcarrots,they’relikeahealthywake-upcallforyourtastebuds.APPLENOTES:Therearesomanyotherflavorsinthismuffin,trulyanyfirm-sweetapple(seepage30)willworkwell.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanprep this recipe throughstep1 thenightbefore, thenfinishitinthemorning.Youcanalsofreezethefinishedmuffinsinazip-topbagforuptotwomonths.EQUIPMENT:One15-cupmuffintinortwo12-cuptinsof⅓-cupcapacity

MAKES:15muffins•ACTIVETIME:25minutes•TOTALTIME:50minutes

2¼cups(325g)all-purposeflour1¼cups(255g)granulatedsugar1tablespoongroundcinnamon1teaspoonbakingpowder1teaspoonbakingsoda

¾teaspoontablesalt2cups(180g)gratedcarrots⅔cup(125g)cannedcrushedpineapple,drained½cup(45g)shreddedsweetenedcoconut1largefirm-sweetapple(about8ounces;seeAppleNotes),unpeeled,cored,andgrated

½cup(65g)roughlychoppedwalnuts3largeeggs¾cup(177ml)vegetableoil,suchascanolaorcorn1teaspoonvanillaextract

1 • Preheat theoven to 350°F and set a rack to themiddle position.Line themuffin cups with paper liners or grease with butter. In a large bowl, whisktogethertheflour,sugar,cinnamon,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsalt.Addthecarrots,pineapple,coconut,apple,andwalnuts,andstirtocombine.Addtheeggs,oil,andvanillaandstirtocombine.

2•Dividethebatteramongthe15muffincups,fillingeach⅔ofthewaytothetop.Bakeuntil themuffinsarepuffedandgoldenandacake testercomesoutclean, about 25 minutes. Let the muffins cool in the pan on a rack for 10minutes,thenturnthemouttocoolforanother10minutes;servewarm.

Sausage,Apple,andCheddarStrata

Savory bread puddings, or stratas, are another greatbrunchoption.They’reendlesslyversatile,allowingforawholerangeofflavorcombinations,andcanbepreparedthenightbeforeyouservethem.Thisstrata combines some of my favorite breakfast flavors: sausage, eggs, maplesyrup, and fried apples. Tossed with bread cubes and Cheddar and soaked incustard,theingredientsallcometogetherinsweetandsavoryharmony.APPLE NOTES: Firm-tart apples (see page 30) are the best choice for this dishbecause they have the acidity to stand up to the rich sausage and Cheddar. IparticularlyliketheNorthernSpy,becauseittendstobejustabitsweeter,andthatmakes it a nicematch for themaple flavors.Other good choices:Esopus

Spitzenburg,SierraBeauty,andArkansasBlack.EQUIPMENT:9-by13-inchbakingpan;10-to12-inchskillet

MAKES:8servings•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,45minutes,plusatleast2hourschillingtime

Butterforgreasingpan6largeeggs3½cups(830ml)wholeor2%milk1tablespoonDijonmustard1teaspoonkoshersalt,divided6ounces(170g)gratedCheddarcheese2scallions,endstrimmed,cutinto½-inchlengths12ounces(340g)freshporkbreakfastsausage,suchasJimmyDeanbrand,inbulkorinlinks

1½cups(210g)choppedyellowonion2 large firm-tart apples (about 1 pound total; see Apple Notes), peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inch-thickwedges

1tablespoonmaplesyrupmixedwith1tablespoonwater14ounces (450g;about¾ofa standard loaf)crustywhitebread, suchasItalianorPullmanstyle,cutinto1-inchcubes

1•Thenightbeforeserving(oratleast2hoursahead),whisktogethertheeggs,milk,mustard, and½ teaspoonof thekosher salt.Set aside.Toss theCheddarwiththescallionsandsetaside.Generouslygreaseabakingpanwithbutter.Setaside.

2•Inaskilletovermedium-highheat,cookthesausage,stirringoccasionally,untilfullycookedthroughandbrowned,7to10minutes.Ifusinglinksausages,turntobrownallover.Ifusingbulksausage,breakupthepieceswithawoodenspoonastheycook.Removethesausage,drainonpapertowels,andsetaside.Ifusinglinks,cutintohalf-inchpieces.

3 •Drain all but 2 tablespoons sausage drippings from the pan, then add theonion and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring

frequently,untiltheonionsaretranslucent,about5minutes.Reducetheheattomediumandaddtheapplesandmaplesyrupmixture.Cook,stirringoften,untiltheapplesaretenderandthemaplesyruphasreducedtoaglaze,4to6minutesmore.

4•ArrangehalfthebreadcubesinthebottomoftheprepareddishandtopwithathirdofthegratedCheddar-scallionmixture,halftheonion-applemixture,andhalfthesausage.Repeatwiththeremainingbread,athirdofthecheese-scallionmixture, and the remaining onion-apple mixture and sausage. Top with theremainingcheese-scallionmixture.Pour theeggmixtureoverall,makingsurethatallthebreadiscoated.Coverwithfoilorplasticwrapandchillforatleast2hoursanduptoovernight.

5•Preheattheovento350°F.Bake,uncovered,untilthecustardissetandthetopisgoldenbrown,about1hour.Letcoolonarackfor20minutes,thenservewarmfromthepan.

IrishSodaBreadwithApplesandCurrants

BostonisagreatplacetolivearoundSaintPatrick’sdaybecause even the Italian bakeries turn out respectable rounds of sodabread.Andwhynot?Madewithoutyeast, thisbread requiresno rising time—instantgratification!Typically,theseloavesarestuddedwithraisins,butIlikeacombinationofapplesandcurrants,alongwiththetraditionalcarawayseeds.APPLENOTES:Firm-tartapples (seepage30), suchasGrannySmithandRhodeIslandGreening,arebest.EQUIPMENT:8or9-inchroundcakepan

MAKES:1loaf•ACTIVETIME:25minutes•TOTALTIME:65minutes

2¼cups(325g)all-purposeflour¼cup(51g)plus2teaspoonsgranulatedsugar,divided1½teaspoonsbakingpowder1teaspoontablesalt¾teaspoonbakingsoda

4tablespoons(58g)meltedunsaltedbutter,plusmoreforgreasingpan1cup(240ml)buttermilk1largefirm-tartapple(about8ounces;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutintosmallcubes

½cup(65g)currants1teaspooncarawayseeds

1•Preheattheovento375°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Generouslygreaseacakepanwithbutter. Ina largebowl,whisktogether theflour,¼cupsugar,thebakingpowder,salt,andbakingsoda.Addthebutterandstiruntiltheflourismostlycoated.Makeawellinthecenterandaddthebuttermilk.Gentlystir just untilmoistened.The dough should lookvery shaggy.Add the apples,currants,andcarawayseedsandstirjusttocombine.

2 •Using flouredhands, shape thedough intoaball.Transfer to thepreparedpanandflattenslightly(thedoughwillnot reach theedges).Sprinklewith theremaining2teaspoonssugar.

3•Bakeuntilthetopoftheloafisgoldenbrownandatesterinsertedintothecenter comes out clean, 45 to 50minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool for 15minutes. Gently turn the bread out of the pan and cool on the rack for anadditional15minutes.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.



The trick tomaking great challah is to add just enougheggs and oil to the dough so that it tastes rich and moist withoutbecomingheavy and sticky.My friendKathyCohengets it exactly right—herbread,stuffedwithapples,raisins,andcinnamon,isthehighlightofherannualJewish New Year feast. For years, I’d count the days between slices, until Ifinallydecidedtoaskfortherecipe.

APPLENOTES:Therearen’talotofapplesinthisbread,soyouwantavarietythatreallystandsout.Therefore,greenfirm-tartapples(seepage30),suchasGrannySmithandRhodeIslandGreening,aretheperfectchoicehere.EQUIPMENT:2largebakingsheets,rimmedorunrimmed

MAKES:2loaves•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:4hours

FORTHEBREAD

2tablespoonsdryyeast1tablespoonplus¾cup(155g)granulatedsugar5largeeggs¾cup(180ml)vegetableoil,suchascanolaorsafflower¾teaspoonkoshersalt6cups(870g)all-purposeflour

FORTHEFILLING

1largefirm-tartapple(about8ounces;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutintosmallcubes

½cup(65g)raisins3tablespoonslemonjuice2tablespoonshoney½teaspoongroundcinnamon

1eggyolk

1 •Combine½cupwarmwater, theyeast,and1 tablespoonof thesugar inasmall bowl. Stir until the yeast dissolves. Let it activate for 10 minutes—themixtureshouldlookfoamy.

2•Inthelargebowlofastandingmixerwiththepaddleattachmentorwithahand-heldmixer,beattheeggsatmediumspeeduntilblended.Addtheoil,salt,andremaining¾cupsugar.Beatuntilpaleincolor,about4minutes.Beatin⅔cupwater,thenaddtheyeastmixture.Beatintheflour1cupatatime.

3•Turnthedoughontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor2minutes(orusethedoughhookonyourmixerfor1minuteatlowspeed).Putthedoughinalightly

oiledbowlandturntocoat.Coverwithplasticwrapandakitchentowelandputinawarmcornerofyourkitchentorise.Iliketousemy(unheated)ovenwiththelightbulbon.Youwantthedoughtodoubleinsize,whichtakesjustaboutanhour.

4•Punchdownthedough,rewrapwithplasticwrapandakitchentowel,andletthedoughrisefor30minutes.Itwon’tquitedoubleinthistime,butitwillpuffup.

5 • Meanwhile, make the filling: In a small bowl, toss the apples with theraisins,lemonjuice,honey,andcinnamon.Letsitfor20minutes,thendrainanyliquid.

6•Turnthedoughoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceanddivideinhalf.Divideeachhalfintothreeequalparts,foratotalofsixpieces.Rollouteachpiecetoform a 12-inch strand, then pat each strand down into a flat rectangle shape.Spoonabitofapplemixturedownthecenterofeachrectangle,thenfolddoughoverthefilling,rollintoa15-inchrope,andpinchtheendstight.

7•Formtheloaves:Putthreeoftheapple-filled“ropes”oneachbakingsheet.Braid the ropes together (fold right rope over center, then fold left rope overcenter, repeat). Pinch at bottom. Repeat with the other loaf. Cover the loaveswithkitchentowels,andletrisefor45minutes.

8•Preheattheovento400°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Whisktheeggyolkwith1tablespoonwaterandbrushoverthetopsoftheloaves.Bakefor10minutes,thenreducetheheatto350°Fandbakeuntilthecrustsarebrownedandthebreadispuffedandlight,30minutesmore.Transfertheloavestoarackandletcoolfor30minutesbeforeserving.

CHAPTEREIGHT

PIES,CRISPS,COBBLERS,BUCKLES,ANDBETTIES

Spencer

THEBUSINESSOFAPPLES:

ATourofWashington’sWenatcheeValley,“AppleCapitaloftheWorld”

Wenatchee,Washingtondoesn’t looklikeEden, thoughthe local Visitor’s Bureauwould have you believe so. Promotional photosdepict a landscape of lush, green, orchard-lined hills rolling down from theCascadeMountainstotheconfluenceoftheWenatcheeandColumbiarivers,thetrees heavy with ripe apples, cherries, peaches, and pears. So it’s startling toenterthisvalleyinlatesummer,justbeforethestartofappleseason,andfindadry,highdesertlandscape.

Infact, theregiononlygreensupduringthespring,after therains,andtheorchardsarekeptalivesolelythroughampleirrigationfromtherivers.Thesunshines three hundred days out of the year inWenatchee, and without human

intervention,thelandwouldreverttoabrown,rockylandscapedottedwithsageandbitterbrush.

Yet central Washington is America’s most prolific apple-growing region.More thanhalf theapplesgrown in theUnitedStates come from this state—avolumemorethanfourtimesthanthatofnumbertwofinisherNewYork—andnearly38millionboxesofappleswereshippedfromWenatcheealonein2008.Nearby Yakima produces even more apples—about 50 percent more in anygivenyear.ButWenatcheestillclaimstobe“TheAppleCapitaloftheWorld,”aslogantrumpetedonalarge,apple-shapedneonsignattheedgeoftown.

Howsuchabundancecamefromthedesertseemsapuzzleat first.But theanswer canbe foundnot far from that sign, in a low-slungbrownbuildingonEuclid Avenue, where the Washington Apple Commission hosts a modestvisitorscenter.Theexhibitstheretellastoryofhow,intheearly1800s,thefirstpioneersdiscovered that the region’s clearCascademountainwater andbrightsunshine,hotdaysandcrispautumnnights,andrichvolcanicsoilreplenishedbyMount St. Helens’ periodic blasts made this prime apple country. Yes, scarcerainfallnecessitatesirrigation,andthehotsummertemperaturesaren’tgoodformany breeds of apples, but the dry climate also keeps insect populations incheck. In fact,Washington is thecountry’s leadingproduceroforganicapples,andevennon-organicfarmsrequirefewerpesticideapplicationsperseasonthanfarms in other regions. The sunshine helps the fruit grow big and ripe—premium-grade apples weigh about half a pound each—while the controlledwater supply can concentrate the flavor of the fruit. Suddenly, a desert Edenmakessense.Andhere,applesareaverybig,verymodernbusiness.

If this paradise could be said to have an operationscenter,itcanbe found in the sprawlingwarehouses ofStemiltGrowers,oneofthelargestgrowing,packing,andshippingoperationsinthestate.Here,popularsupermarketvarietiessuchasBraeburn,Gala,andFuji—somegrownonStemilt-ownedland,othersonsmallerfamilyfarms—aregraded,sorted,stored,andpacked for transportonanautomatedassembly line that’sdecidedlymorehigh-tech than home spun. Along the line, apples are systematicallyphotographed, weighed, and routed by computer; sent down long water-filledflumes;andgentlyslappedwiththetinyPLUstickersthatarethebaneofhomecooks worldwide. Some below-grade apples are siphoned off for the juice

factory while premium fruits are sent straight to market, and still others arehoused ingiantcontrolledatmospherestorage roomswhere the fruit isheld insuspendedanimationformonthsatatime.

It’sanoperationofmind-bogglingcomplexity,sodifferentfromthesimplefamily-runorchardssellingpapersacksofapplesatthefarmers’market.ThoughthebusinesshasbeenownedandrunbymembersoftheMathisonfamilysince1893—theyfirstarrivedashomesteaders,andbeganraisingfruitsoonafter—ithas evolved into an international corporation with annual revenues exceeding$100million.Onthisstage,innovationisessential.

“We continue to find better ways grow, better ways to pick and transferfruit,” saysRogerPepperl, the company’smarketingmanager,whoseoffice inthecompany’ssleekcorporateheadquartersisjustupthehill,butaworldawayfrom the warehouses. “We’re continually upgrading machines on the sortingline.Wehavethecapabilitytosamplethefruit’ssugarsandtestpressurelevels,todeterminecrunch.”Heshakeshishead.“Therealwaysseemstobesomethingnew,andthestandardscontinuetorise.”

Today’sstandardscallforsweet,juicy,andverycrunchyapples,somostofthegrowersintheWenatcheeValleyfavorjustahandfulofvarieties,includingGoldenDelicious,GrannySmith,Honeycrisp,Cameo,Jonagold,andPinkLady.Notabadmix,buthardlythediversityoncecultivatedonAmericanfarms.Themarketdemandslarge,uniform,storable,transportablefruit,andmanyheirloombreedscan’tcompete.

Andso,ratherthanrelyingonarollofthegeneticdice,asthefirstAmericanapple farmers did, today’s large-scale growers turn to market research, focusgroups,andcontrolledbreedingmethods to find thenextwinningvariety.RedDelicious,longlamentedasamealy,flavorlessfruit,is,thankfully,inthesunsetofitscareer,whilePinkLady,Gala,Fuji,andJazzapplesareleadingthecharge.Stemiltisevenmarketingitsownproprietaryvariety,calledPiñata(seepage51)—a three-way cross between Golden Delicious, Cox’s Orange Pippin, andDuchess of Oldenburg that’s prized for exceptional crunch and juiciness.Securing the exclusive rights to trademarked varieties is a tremendouscompetitive advantage in the current market, and other large growers andcooperativesarescrambling tosnapup theirownsignaturevarieties (or, in thecase of the foreign-bred varieties such as the Jazz, the exclusive Americanrights). It’s hard to imagine amore contrary approach to JohnnyAppleseed’sseed-scatteringfree-for-all.

But just as in the nineteenth century, amodern home-run apple breed can

meanbigmoney,andsinceU.S.appleconsumptionhasgenerallybeenflatoverthepastdecade,thanksinparttocompetitionfromanincreasinglydiversefruitmarket(haveyounoticedthosewintergrapesandraspberriesfromChile?)andjunkfood,growersarehungryfornewwaystograbmarketshare.

“The fruit business is definitely becoming more vertically integrated, andthere’sbeenatonofconsolidation,”saysPepperl.“Fifteenyearsago,thereweremaybefiftytosixtyshippersinthestateofWashington,allshippingaroundthecountry.Sincethen,we’veconsolidatedtomaybefifteenplayers.”

Internationalmarketsholdpromise,andtheWashingtonAppleCommissionhas pushed hard to make inroads in Mexico, India, and Asia. But on theinternational market, China is casting a very long shadow. According to theUnited States Department of Agriculture, China produced nearly 30 millionmetrictonsofapplesin2008—someofwhichreachedtheAmericanmarketinthe formof inexpensiveapple juice.Meanwhile, in that sameyear, theUnitedStatesharvestedjustover4.4millionmetrictons.

“China is interesting,” saysPepperl. “Theyproduce eight, nine timeswhatwe produce, but that doesn’t take into account quality. A lot of their stuff isproducedandsoldwithinChina,buttheystillimported1or2millionpoundsofourappleslastyear.Why?Becausewegrowfantasticapples.”

Inaglobalmarket,Wenatcheeiscountingonthatcombinationofhighdesertsunshineandhigh-techsavvytokeepits“AppleCapital”signshining—ifnotintermsofquantity,thencertainlyinquality.

“Attheendoftheday,certainareasaregoingtogrowbetterfruit,”Pepperlsays.“WashingtonStateisthepremiereareaforgrowingapples.Oneofthebestinworld.”

Grandma’sAppleCrisp

My grandmother, Mary Quagliaroli, made this buttery,cinnamon-scented crisp every fall, and to me, it’s the flavor of home.This is her adaptation of a recipe from the November 1945 issue ofCountryGentlemanmagazine; I still have the original, now tissue-thin and torn at thecreases,whichshepassedalongtomeinalittleplasticbagfilledwithsomeofherfavoriterecipes.NowImakeitinsummerorfall,fillingitwithwhatever’sfresh:apples,blueberries,peaches,nectarines,raspberries,orpears.

Not your usual oat-and-brown-sugar blend, it has a simple, sweet biscuittoppingmade with flour, baking powder, salt, sugar, and eggs. That’s it. Justdrizzlewith the butter and sprinklewith cinnamon.Servewith a scoop of icecream,adrizzleofheavycream,ornotoppingatall.APPLENOTES: For theperfect texture, I like tomix tender-tart apples (seepage30),suchasMcIntoshorJonathan,withfirm-sweetones,suchasJazzorGingerGold.Thetenderapplescookdownandcreateasortofthicksauce,inwhichthefirmerslicesaresuspended—amixtureofsmoothnessandtexture.NOTE: You can cut your prep time in half by using an old-fashioned applecorer/peeler, whichmakes short work of cutting the apples into perfect, evenslices.EQUIPMENT:9-by13-inchbakingdish


FORTHEFILLING

5largetender-tartapples(about2½poundstotal;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inch-thickringsorslices

5 large firm-sweetapples, (about2½pounds total),peeled, cored, andcutinto¼-inch-thickringsorslices

FORTHETOPPING

2cups(290g)all-purposeflour2teaspoonsbakingpowder1½teaspoonskoshersalt1cup(210g)granulatedsugar2largeeggs,lightlybeaten8tablespoons(1stick;120g)saltedbutter,meltedandcooled2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

1•Preheattheovento350°F,andsetaracktothemiddleposition.Arrangetheslicedapplesinanevenlayerinabakingdish(noneedtogreaseit);setaside.

2•Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheflour,bakingpowder,salt,andsugar.Addtheeggsand,usingaforkorapastrycutter,workinuntilcrumbly.Themixturewill look like streusel,withamixofwet anddrybits.Haveno fear; theeggs

provideenoughliquid.

3 • Spread the topping evenly over the apples, then drizzle all over with themelted butter. Sprinkle with cinnamon and bake until the topping is goldenbrownandapplejuicesarebubbling,45to55minutes.Letcool20minutes,thenservewarmfromthepan.

Oatmeal-ToppedAppleCrisp

Applecrispis,hands-down,myfavoritedessert,whichiswhy thereare two versions in this book:my grandmother’s cake-toppedrecipe(page185), and thismore traditional variation, inwhich the apples areblanketedinathicklayerofoats,pecans,andspices.BotharesodeliciousthatifIweretostageahead-to-headapplecrispbake-off,I’dhavetodeclareatie,butonlyafterrepeatedsamplingsfor,ahem,researchpurposes.Servewithascoopof ice cream, a drizzle of heavy cream, or no topping at all. LikeGrandma’sAppleCrisp, this is alsodeliciouswhenmadewithblueberries,mixedberries,slicedpeaches,ornectarines.APPLENOTES:AswithGrandma’sAppleCrisp,Ithinkanycombinationoftender-tartapples(seepage30)andfirm-sweetonesisidealhere,bothfromatasteandtextureperspective.However,becausethiscrisphaspecansandabitmorespice,you’d do especially well with apples with spicy notes, such as Baldwin,Braeburn,GingerGold,Jonathan,andMcIntosh.NOTE:Rolledoats are thicker than instantorquick-cookingoats and take abitlongertocook,buttheyhaveanicechewinessthatworksverywellinthisdish.EQUIPMENT:9-by13-inchbakingdish;foodprocessor


FORTHEFILLING

5largetender-tartapples(about2½poundstotal;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inchchunks

5 large firm-sweet apples (about 2½ pounds total), peeled, cored, and cutinto1-inchchunks

FORTHETOPPING

1cup(145g)all-purposeflour½cup(45g)rolledoats,alsocalledold-fashionedoats(seeNote)½cup(115g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar½cup(105g)granulatedsugar1teaspoongroundcinnamonscant½teaspoonfreshlygratedgroundnutmeg½teaspoonkoshersalt10tablespoons(1¼sticks;142g)chilledsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces¾cup(80g)pecanhalves

1•Preheattheovento375°F,andsetaracktothemiddleposition.Arrangetheapplesinabakingdish(noneedtogreaseit).

2•Inafoodprocessor,pulsetheflour,oats,sugars,cinnamon,nutmegandsalttoblend.Sprinkle thebutteron topandpulse four times (1secondeach)—themixturewill look likeroughsand.Add thepecansandpulseuntil theyare thesizeofpeas—aboutthreepulses.

3 • Spread the mixture over the apples and bake until the topping is goldenbrownandapplejuicesarebubbling,50to60minutes.Letcool20minutes,thenservewarmfromthepan.

SwedishApplePie

My friend Aaron Cohen, a food writer, shared thiscrustless apple pie recipe, and I was so impressed with its ease ofpreparationandfantastic flavor that Ihad to include ithere. It’seveneasier tomake than my grandmother’s apple crisp on page 185, and that’s sayingsomething.Inthiscase,allyoudoispeelandslicefiveapplesandthentopthemwithaquickbatterofflour,sugar,butter,andanegg.That’sit.Spreadthatoverthe apples and pop in the oven. The batter settles down around the fruit as itcooks,soyouendupwithslicesoffruitsuspendedinacakelikefilling.APPLENOTES:Anyfirm-tartapple(seepage30)willdoverywellhere.All that

mattersisthatthefruithasenoughaciditytostanduptotherichbatter.EQUIPMENT:9-or10-inchdeep-dishpieplate


4 large firm-tart apples (about 2 pounds total; see Apple Notes), peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inch-thickslices

1teaspoongroundcinnamon1tablespoonplus1cup(145g)all-purposeflour2tablespoonsplus1cup(210g)granulatedsugar10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks; 142g) saltedbutter, at room temperature,plusmoreforgreasingpan

1largeegg

1•Preheattheovento375°F.Greaseapieplateandsetaside.

2•Inamediumbowl,tosstheapplesliceswiththecinnamon,1tablespoonoftheflour,and2tablespoonsofthesugar.Arrangetheslicesflatandinanevenlayer in the pie plate (if using a 9-inch pie plate, itwill look quite full; don’tworry,therewillstillberoomforthetopping).

3•Inastandingmixerorwithahand-heldmixer,combinetheremainingflourandsugarwiththebutterandegg.Mixuntilcombined.Useaspatulatospreadthebatterovertheapples.Bakeuntilthetopisgoldenbrownandcrusty,40to45minutes.Letcoolonarackfor30minutes,thenservewarmfromthepan.

Double-CrustApplePie

Here’stheclassicAmericanapplepie,theresultofmanyroundsofbaking. I foundmy ideal in a blend of sweet and tart applespiled between fantastically flaky and buttery crusts. The filling has a hint ofwarm spice, with a just a little lemon to brighten the flavors. Meanwhile,cornstarchkeepsthejuicesthicker,soyoursliceslookbeautiful.APPLENOTES:Pies require firmapples, I think.Amixof sweet and tart fruit is

best to give thepie the richest flavor.Someofmy favorite pie apples includeNorthern Spy, Sierra Beauty, and Esopus Spitzenburg in the tart family, andGingerGold,GoldenDelicious,Jazz,andJonagoldfromthesweet.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanpreparethecrustthroughstep1andrefrigerateforupto five days. You can also freeze the dough for up to three months. Defrostovernightintherefrigeratorbeforeusing.EQUIPMENT:Parchmentpaper;9-inchpieplate(notdeep-dish;preferablyglass);bakingsheet(anysize)


FORTHECRUST

2½cups(360g)all-purposeflour2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar1teaspoonkoshersalt18 tablespoons (2¼ sticks; 255 g) chilled unsalted butter, cut into smallcubes

6to8tablespoons(90to120ml)icewaterMilkforbrushingovercrust

FORTHEFILLING

1½ pounds (680 g, or about 3 large) firm-tart apples (see Apple Notes),peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inch-thickwedges

1½pounds (680g, orabout3 large) firm-sweetapples,peeled, cored,andcutinto½-inch-thickwedges

¼cup(51g)granulatedsugar2tablespoonsfirmlypackedlightbrownsugar1tablespoonlemonjuice1½tablespoonscornstarch¼teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonfreshlygroundnutmeg¼teaspoonkoshersalt

1•First,makethecrust:Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,sugar,andsalt until well combined (for instructions on using a food processor, see page

67).Sprinklethebutterovertheflourmixtureanduseyourfingerstoworkitin(rub your thumb against your fingertips, smearing the butter as you do). Stopwhen the mixture looks like cornmeal with some pea-sized bits of butterremaining.Sprinkle6tablespoonsicewaterontopandstirwithaforkuntilthedoughbeginstocometogether.Ifneeded,addmoreicewater,atablespoonatatime. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead three times, or justenough to make a cohesive dough—do not overmix! Gather into a ball, thendivideintotwopieces,oneslightlylargerthantheother.Presseachpieceintoadiskandwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

2 •Meanwhile, prepare the filling: In a large bowl, toss the apples with thesugar, brown sugar, lemon juice, cornstarch, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Setaside.

3•Preheattheovento425°Fandsetaracktothelowestposition.Unwrapthelargerdiskofdoughandputitinthecenterofalargesheetofparchmentpaper.Coverwithasecondpieceofparchmentandrollout,workingfromthecenter,toa 13-inch circle about⅛ inch thick. Peel off the top piece of parchment andtransfer the dough to a pie plate, peeled side down. Peel off the remainingparchmentandpressthecrustintothesidesoftheplatedrapinganyexcessovertheedge.Fillthecrustwiththeapplemixture,makingthepileabithigherinthecenter.Setaside(ifit’sawarmday,transfertorefrigeratortochillwhileyourolloutthetopcrust).

4•Unwrapthesmallerdiskofdoughandputitinthecenterofalargesheetofparchmentpaper.Coverwithasecondpieceofparchmentandrollout,workingfromthecenter,toa10-inchcircleabout⅛inchthick.Peeloffthetoppieceofparchment and transfer the dough to the pie, peeled side down. Peel off theremainingparchment and,usinga sharpknife,make two3-inch slashes in thetopcrust toallowsteamtoescape.Fold thebottomcrustupover the topcrustand crimp to seal. If you don’t have a favorite crimping technique, you canalways simply pinch the crust between your thumb and forefinger at regularintervals around the crust, but I like tomake a scalloped edge by holdingmyrightthumbandforefingerina“U”shape,thenpokingthecrustbetweenthemusingmyleftforefinger.Brushthecrustalloverwithmilk.

5 •Put thepieonabakingsheetandbakeon the lowest rackfor10minutes.Reduce the heat to 350°F and bake until juices are bubbling and the crust isgolden brown, another 40 to 50 minutes. Let cool on a rack for at least 45minutesbeforeserving.

BlueRibbonDeep-DishApplePie

BlueRibbonDeep-DishApplePie

When it comes to apple pie, themore fruit themerrier.

Exceptthemoreapplesyoupileintothedish,themorelikelyyouaretoendupwithabiggapbetweenthecrust,whichsetsearlyinthebaking,andthefilling,whichsoftensandshrinksbythetimethepieisdone.Theanswer, inatechniqueIadaptedfromCook’sIllustratedmagazine,istopre-cooktheapplesjustabitto“set”theirshape.Theresultisapiethat’sgoodenoughforabake-off:tall,beautifullydomed,andfilledtotheverytopwithjuicyapples.APPLENOTES:Again,anycombinationoffirm-tartandfirm-sweetapples is fine(seepage30).But, aswith theclassicDouble-CrustApplePieonpage190, Iparticularly like Northern Spy, Sierra Beauty, and Esopus Spitzenburg fortartness,andGingerGold,GoldenDelicious,Jazz,andJonagoldforsweetness.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanpreparethecrustthroughstep1andrefrigerateforupto five days. You can also freeze the dough for up to three months. Defrostovernightintherefrigeratorbeforeusing.EQUIPMENT: 5- to 6-quart Dutch Oven or other large, heavy-bottomed pot;parchmentpaper;9-inchdeep-dishpieplate(preferablyglass);bakingsheet(anysize)

MAKES:8servings•ACTIVETIME:1hour,15minutes•TOTALTIME:2hours,45minutes

FORTHECRUST

2½cups(360g)all-purposeflour3tablespoonsgranulatedsugar,divided1teaspoonkoshersalt18 tablespoons (2¼ sticks; 255 g) chilled unsalted butter, cut into ¼-inchcubes

6to8tablespoons(90to120ml)icewaterMilkforbrushingovercrust

FORTHEFILLING

2½pounds (1.13 kg, or about 5 large) firm-tart apples (seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inch-thickwedges

2½pounds(1.13kg,orabout5large)firm-sweetapples,peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inch-thickwedges

⅓cup(70g)granulatedsugar2tablespoonsfirmlypackedlightbrownsugar

1½tablespoons(22ml)freshlysqueezedlemonjuice½teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoonkoshersalt1½tablespoonscornstarch

BlueRibbonDeep-DishApplePie(page193)àlamodeandApfelEisappleicewine

1 • First, make the crust: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, 2tablespoons of the sugar, and salt until well combined (for instructions onmakingcrustinafoodprocessor,seepage67).Sprinklethebuttercubesovertheflourmixtureanduseyourfingerstoworkthemin(youwanttorubyourthumb

againstyour fingertips, smearing thebutterasyoudo).Stopwhen themixturelooks like cornmeal with some pea-sized bits of butter remaining. Sprinkle 6tablespoonsicewaterontopandstirwithaforkuntilthedoughbeginstocometogether.Ifneeded,add1or2tablespoonsmoreoficewater.Turnthedoughoutontoa lightly flouredsurfaceandknead three times,or justenough tomakeacohesivedough—donotovermix!Gatherthedoughintoaball,thendivideintotwopieces,one slightly larger than theother.Presseachpiece intoadiskandwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

2•Preheattheovento425°Fandsetaracktothelowestposition.Meanwhile,prepare thefilling: InaDutchovenovermediumheat,stir theappleswith thesugar,brownsugar,lemonjuice,cinnamon,andsalt.Cook,stirringgently,untiltheapplesjustbegintoturntender,about10minutes.Reducetheheatifapplesbegintosizzlevigorously.

3 • Remove the apples from the heat, stir in the cornstarch, and spread theapples out on a large baking sheet. Put in the freezer to cool to roomtemperature,12to15minutes.

4 •Meanwhile, unwrap the larger disk of dough and put it in the center of alarge sheetofparchmentpaper.Coverwitha secondpieceofparchment.Rollout, working from the center, to a 13-inch circle. Peel off the top piece ofparchmentandtransferthedoughtoapieplate,peeledsidedown.Peelofftheremainingparchmentandpressthecrustintotheplate,drapinganyexcessoverthesides.Unwrap thesmallerdiskofdoughandput it in thecenterofa largesheet of parchment paper. Coverwith a second piece of parchment. Roll out,workingfromthecenter,toan11-inchcircle.Setaside.

5•Removetheapplesfromthefreezer,anduseaspatulatotransferthem,withany juices, into the pie plate. Peel the parchment off the top crust. Transfer,peeledsidedown,tothepie,thenpeelofftheremainingparchmentand,usingasharpknife,make threeslashes in thecrust toallowsteam toescape.Fold thebottomcrustupoverthetopcrustandcrimptoseal.Ifyoudon’thaveafavoritedecorativecrimpingtechnique,youcanalwayssimplypinchthecrustbetweenyour thumb and forefinger at regular intervals around the crust, but I like tomakeascallopededgebyholdingmyrightthumbandforefingerina“U”shape,

thenpokingthecrustbetweenthemusingmyleftforefinger.(For thephotoofthisdishonpage192,foodstylistMichaelPedersonusedthehandleofhisoffsetspatulatomakediagonalindentationsaroundtheedge.)Brushthecrustalloverwithmilkandsprinklewiththeremainingsugar.

6 •Put thepieonabakingsheetandbakeon the lowest rackfor10minutes.Reducetheheatto350°Fandbakeuntilthepieisgoldenbrown,another40to50minutes.Letcoolonarackforatleast45minutesbeforeserving.

THEBESTAPPLESFORPIE

Ialwaysrecommendusingamixoffirm-sweetandfirm-tart apple varieties (see page 30) in your pies. That way, you get a broaderspectrumofapple flavors.However, ifyou’reeager to tryasinglevarietypie,here’salistofmyfavorites:

FIRM-TARTArkansasBlack

CalvilleBlancd’HiverNewtownPippinNorthernSpy

RhodeIslandGreeningRoxburyRussetSierraBeauty

StaymanWinesap

FIRM-SWEETGravensteinJonagold

ApplePiewithCrumbTopping

Ifit’satallpossibletoimproveonagreatapplepie,thisis theway: Pile on a thick layer of nutty, crumbly topping made withpecans,brownsugar, flour, andbutter. If Ihad topick favoritesamongall thepiesinthisbook,thiswouldbeit.It’slikethebestofapplecrispandapplepieallinonedeliciouspackage.APPLENOTES:Inanypierecipe,I’llalwaysrecommendfirmapples,preferablyamixof tarterandsweetervarieties (seepage30).Aswith theOatmeal-ToppedApple Crisp on page 187, you’ll do especially well with apples that have aspicierprofile,suchasBaldwin,Goldrush,GingerGold,andSuncrisp.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanpreparethecrustthroughstep1andrefrigerateforupto five days. You can also freeze the dough for up to three months. Defrostovernightintherefrigeratorbeforeusing.EQUIPMENT: Parchment paper; 9-inch deep-dish pie plate (preferably glass);bakingsheet(anysize)


FORTHECRUST

1¼cups(180g)all-purposeflour1tablespoongranulatedsugar½teaspoonkoshersalt9tablespoons(128g)chilledunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes3to4tablespoons(45to60ml)icewater

FORTHEFILLING

1½ pounds (680 g, or about 3 large) firm-tart apples (see Apple Notes)peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inch-thickwedgesorslices

1½pounds (680g;orabout3 large) firm-sweetapples,peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inch-thickwedgesorslices

¼cup(55g)granulatedsugar2tablespoonsfirmlypackedlightbrownsugar2tablespoonscornstarch1tablespoonlemonjuice

¼teaspoonkoshersalt

FORTHESTREUSELTOPPING

½cup(55g)pecanhalves,choppedfine1cup(145g)all-purposeflour½cup(115g)packedlightbrownsugar¼teaspoonkoshersalt7tablespoons(100g)saltedbutter,melted

1•First,makethecrust:Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,sugar,andsaltuntilwell combined (for instructionsonmakingcrust in a foodprocessor,seepage67).Sprinklethebuttercubesontopanduseyourfingerstoworkthemin (youwant to rubyour thumbagainstyour fingertips, smearing thebutterasyoudo).Stopwhenthemixturelookslikecornmealwithsomepea-sizedbitsofbutter remaining. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons icewater on top and stirwith a forkuntilthedoughbeginstocometogether.Ifneeded,addatablespoonmoreoficewater.Turnthedoughoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandkneadthreetimes.Gatherintoaball,thenpressintoadiskandwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigerateforatleast30minutes.

2 •Meanwhile, prepare the filling: In a large bowl, toss the apples with thesugar,brownsugar,cornstarch,lemonjuice,andsalt.Setaside.

3 •Preheat theoven to400°Fandseta rack to the lowestposition.Make thestreuseltopping:Stirtogetherthepecans,flour,brownsugar,andsaltinasmallbowl.Addthebutterandstirwithaforkuntilsmallclumpsform.Setaside.

4 • Unwrap the dough and put it in the center of a large sheet of parchmentpaper. Cover with a second piece of parchment. Roll out, working from thecenter, toa13-inchcircle.Peeloff the toppieceofparchmentand transfer thedough to apie plate, peeled sidedown.Peel off the remainingparchment andpressthecrustintothesidesoftheplate.Trimthecrustsoithangsabout½inchovertheedge,thentuckunderandcrimp.Ifyoudon’thaveafavoritedecorativecrimpingtechnique,youcanalwayssimplypinchthecrustbetweenyourthumbandforefingeratregularintervalsaroundthecrust,butIliketomakeascallopededgebyholdingmyrightthumbandforefingerina“U”shape,thenpokingthe

crust between them using my left forefinger. Fill the crust with the applemixture,thentopevenlywiththestreusel(pressdownabittomakethetoppingasevenaspossible).

5•Put thepieonabakingsheetandbakeonthebottomrackfor15minutes.Reducetheheatto350°Fandbakeuntilthetoppingisgoldenbrownandjuicesarebubbling,50to60minutes.Letcoolonarackforatleast45minutesbeforeserving—theapplesstayveryhotforquiteawhileandthepieslicesbetterifyougiveitachancetosetup.However,ifyoucan’tbeartowait,bemyguest.

SkilletApplePie

If double-crust pies sound like toomuch effort, opt forthisrusticsingle-crust variation, served in a skillet. The flavors are thesame;there’sjustlesscrusttorolloutandtransferandworryabout.Youdon’tevenhavetocrimpanyedges—justtuckthedoughdownaroundthepre-cookedfruit.Servewithvanillaormaplewalnuticecream.APPLENOTES:UseexactlythesameapplesIrecommendfortwo-crustpies:amixof firm-sweet and firm-tart fruit (see page 30), only with proportions slightlyfavoringthesweet.MyfavoritepieapplesincludeNorthernSpy,SierraBeauty,andRhodeIslandGreeninginthetartfamily,andGingerGold,Gravenstein,andJonagoldfromthesweet.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanpreparethecrustthroughstep1andrefrigerateforupto five days. You can also freeze the dough for up to three months. Defrostovernightintherefrigeratorbeforeusing.EQUIPMENT:Heavy-bottomed10-inch skillet (preferably cast iron)with sides atleast2¼incheshigh


FORTHECRUST

1¼cups(180g)all-purposeflour2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar,divided½teaspoonkoshersalt

9tablespoons(126g)chilledunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes3to4tablespoons(45to60ml)icewaterMilkforbrushingovercrust

FORTHEFILLING

¼cup(60ml)freshapplecider3tablespoonsfirmlypackedlightbrownsugar1tablespooncornstarch¼teaspoontablesalt¼teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoonlemonjuice2tablespoons(28g)saltedbutter4 large firm-tart apples (about 2pounds; seeAppleNotes), peeled, cored,andcutinto½-inch-thickwedges

5largefirm-sweetapples(about2½pounds),peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inch-thickwedges

1 • First, make the crust: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, 1tablespoonofthesugar,andsaltuntilwellcombined(forinstructionsonmakingcrustinafoodprocessor,turntopage67).Sprinklethebuttercubesontopanduse your fingers to work them in (you want to rub your thumb against yourfingertips, smearing the butter as you do). Stop when the mixture looks likecornmealwith somepea-sizedbitsofbutter remaining.Sprinkle3 tablespoonsicewaterontopandstirwithaforkuntilthedoughbeginstocometogether.Ifneeded, add 1 more tablespoon of ice water. Turn out onto a lightly flouredsurfaceandkneadthreetimes.Gatherintoaball,thenpressintoadiskandwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigerateforatleast30minutes.

2•Meanwhile,preparethefilling:Preheattheovento450°Fandsetaracktothe lowest position. In a small bowl, combine the apple cider, brown sugar,cornstarch,salt,cinnamon,andlemonjuice.Setaside.

3•Setaskilletovermedium-highheat.Meltthebutter,thenaddtheapplesandcook,stirringonlyoccasionally,untiltheybegintosoftenandbrownabit,10to12minutes.Stirinthecidermixture,cookforaminute,removefromtheheat,

andsetaside.

4•Assemblethepie:Unwrapthedoughandputitinthecenterofalargesheetof parchment paper. Coverwith a second piece of parchment paper. Roll out,workingfromthecenter,toan11-inchcircle.Peeloffthetoppieceofparchmentand transfer thedough to the skillet,peeled sidedown.Peeloff the remainingparchmentandtuckthedoughdownaroundthefruit.Usingasharpknife,makefour3-inchslashesinthetopcrusttoallowsteamtoescape.Brushthecrustwithmilkandsprinklewiththeremainingsugar.

5•Bakefor10minutes.Reducetheheatto350°Fandcontinuebakinguntilthejuicesarebubblingandthecrustisdeepgoldenbrown,about30moreminutes.Letcoolonarackforatleast20minutes,thenservefromthepan.

MarlboroughPie

I always assumed this dishwas aMassachusetts native,associatingitwithBoston’sMarlboroughStreet,whichisveryposhandlinedwith nineteenth-century townhouses. I pictured some proper Bostonian’sclevercookinventinganapplecustardpieandservingitatadinnerattendedbyFannie Farmer, who took it from there (never mind that the godmother ofAmericancookingdidn’ttravelinthosecircles).

In reality, this custard pie filled with shredded apples and flavored withlemonandsherrygoesbackmuchfurther,firstappearingina1660Britishbook,The Accomplisht Cook, written by a Paris-trained chef named RobertMay. Ittraveled to the NewWorld with the colonists and became hugely popular inMassachusetts,whereitwasalsocalledDeerfieldPie.APPLE NOTES: Themost important thing for this pie is that the apples be firmenoughnottocompletelymeltawayinthecooking.Youdowantalittlebitoftexture.IfyoucangetyourhandsonsomeGoldenRussets,you’llfindthattheirlemony flavorworks beautifully here.But really, any firm-tart and firm-sweetappleswilldo(seepage30).Themorevarieties,themerrierinthistipsypie!MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanpreparethecrustthroughstep1andrefrigerateforupto five days. You can also freeze the dough for up to three months. Defrostovernightintherefrigeratorbeforeusing.

EQUIPMENT:9-inchpieplate,preferablyglass;bakingsheet(anysize)


FORTHECRUST


FORTHEFILLING

2largefirm-tartapples(about1poundtotal;seeAppleNotes),peeledandcored

2largefirm-sweetapples(about1poundtotal),peeledandcored3tablespoonslemonjuice3tablespoonsdrysherry2tablespoons(28g)saltedbutter⅔cup(140g)granulatedsugar3largeeggs1cup(240ml)lightcream¼teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg¼teaspoontablesalt

1•First,makethecrust:Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,salt,andsugaruntilwellcombined(forinstructionsonmakingcrustinafoodprocessor,turntopage67).Sprinklethebuttercubesontopanduseyourfingerstoworkthemin(youwanttorubyourthumbagainstyourfingertips,smearingthebutterasyoudo).Stopwhenthemixturelookslikecornmealwithsomepea-sizedbitsofbutterremaining(trytoworkquicklysothebutterdoesn’tmelt).Sprinkle3tablespoonsicewaterontopandstirwithaforkuntil thedoughjustbeginstocometogether.Ifneeded,addonemoretablespoonicewater.Turnthedoughoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandkneadjustuntilsmooth—threetimesshoulddoit.Gatherintoaball,thenpressintoadiskandwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigerate

for30minutes.

2•Preheattheovento400°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Onaflouredsurface, roll thedoughout,working fromthecenter, toa10-inchcircle,about⅛-inchthick.Carefullytransferthedoughtoapieplateandpressintothesides.Drapeanyexcesscrustover theedge, then foldunderandcrimp. Ifyoudon’thaveafavoritedecorativecrimpingtechnique,youcanalwayssimplypinchthecrust between your thumb and forefinger at regular intervals around the crust,butIliketomakeascallopededgebyholdingmyrightthumbandforefingerina“U”shape,thenpokingthecrustbetweenthemusingmyleftforefinger.Useaforktoprickholesinthebottomofthedough.Linethedoughwithfoilandfillwith dried beans or pie weights. Bake for 8 minutes. Carefully remove theweightsandfoil,thencontinuebakingforanother5minutes(thecrustwillstilllookpale).Removefromtheovenandsetaside.

3•Reducetheoventemperatureto350°F.Usingaboxgrater,gratetheapplesdown to the core. Transfer to amedium bowl and stir in the lemon juice andsherry.Inalarge,heavy-bottomedskilletovermedium-highheat,meltthebutter,thenaddtheapples(withtheirliquid)andthesugarandcook,stirring,untiltheliquid begins to boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, then continue cooking,stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender and most of the liquidevaporates,about10minutes.Removefromtheheatandletcoolfor10minutes.

4 • Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, cinnamon,nutmeg,andsalt.Stir in theapplemixture.Pour the filling into thecrust, thenbakeuntil thecustard is setbutnotbrowned,about35minutes.Let coolonarackfor30minutes,thenservewarmoratroomtemperature.

TarteTatin

Tarte tatin is one of France’s great contributions to theculinaryworld,asimplelayeringofcaramelizedapplesonpastrythat issomuchmorethanitsparts.Traditionally,it’smadewithatartdoughsimilartothatofpiecrust,butIpreferitwithpuffpastry.OneFrenchpuristfriendactuallylookhorrifiedwhenItoldherthis,andifthethoughtoffendsyou,byallmeans

makeyourowncrust.Butpuffpastryisbotheasier(assumingyouusethestore-bought kind) and, in my opinion, more delicious. Serve with ice cream orwhippedcreamontheside.APPLENOTES:TheCalvilleBlancd’Hiveristheclassictartetatinapple,perfectinits bright acidity, ability to hold its shape, and slightly dry texture. However,Granny Smith is a good substitute, as are Northern Spy and Rhode IslandGreening.NOTE:DufourpuffpastryissoldatgourmetandWholeFoodsstores.EQUIPMENT: Rimless baking sheet; 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet, preferablycastiron


1 (14 ounce or 400 g) sheet store-bought puff pastry, preferably Dufourbrand(seeNote)

8tablespoons(1stick;113g)butter¾cup(155g)granulatedsugar6 large firm-tart apples (about 3 pounds, or 1.36 kg; see Apple Notes),peeled,cored,andquarteredlengthwise

1•Preheattheovento425°Fandsetaracktotheupper-middleposition.Dustthebakingsheetwithflour,thensetthepastryonitanddustitwithflour.Rollthedoughout to a squareabout15 incheswide.Usinga sharpknife, trim thesquaretocreatea14-inchcircle.Transfer thepastryonthebakingsheet totherefrigeratorwhileyoupreparetheapples.

2 •Melt thebutter inaskilletovermedium-highheat, thenadd thesugarandcook,stirringoften,untilthemixturebeginstoturngolden,about4minutes.Thesugarwon’tmeltcompletelyintothebutter.Instead,themixturewilllookrathercloudy.Removethepanfromtheheat.

3 •Lookatyourapplewedges.They’llhave twocutedgesanda roundbackside.Starting fromtheoutsideandworking in,carefullyarrange theapplesononeofthecutedges(thatis,setthemontheirsides),sothattheyoverlapslightlyandleanontoeachother.Youwanttoformconcentriccirclesinthepan(don’ttouchthehotcaramel!).Arrangetheinnercircleasyoudidtheouter,onlyabit

moretightly.Returntheskillettotheheatandcooktheapplesononesidefor3minutes,thenflipthemsothatthey’renowsittingontheothercutedge,butstilloverlappinginconcentriccircles.Cookanother3to4minutesuntilthecaramelis toffee-colored. Remove the pan from the heat and lay the pastry over theapples.Useaspatulatotucktheextradoughdownaroundtheapplesinthepan.Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until the crust is browned, 20 to 25minutes.

4 • Remove the pan from the oven and let it sit at room temperature for 20minutestoallowthecarameltocoolandthicken.Runabutterknifearoundtheedge of the crust, then lay a round platter (at least 13 inches wide) over theskillet, serving-side down.Holding the pan tightly against the platter, flip thewholecontraptionsothatthetartdropsoutofthepanandontotheplatterwiththeprettysidefacingup.Don’tworryifanyapplessticktothepan; justuseaspoontoscrapethemoffandputthembackinthetart.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

GravensteinApple-RaspberryTart(page205)

GravensteinApple-RaspberryTart

In his terrific book Apple Pie Perfect, Ken Haedrichobserves thatapples pair best with other fruits that ripen at the sametime,suchaspearsandcranberries.Truetoform,theGravenstein,whichcomestomarketasearlyasJulyontheWestCoast,pairsbeautifullywithraspberries.APPLE NOTES: This is one of the few recipes in this book that recommends aspecificapplevariety.YouwantthesweetwesternGravensteinhere.Butifyou

cangetyourhandsonthePinkPearlorHiddenRose,theymakeadeliciousand,withtheirbrightfuchsiaflesh,seriouslyprettyalternative.EQUIPMENT:9½-inchflutedtartpanwithremovablerim;parchmentpaper

MAKES:8servings•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,10minutes,plus30minuteschillingtime

FORTHECRUST


FORTHEFILLING

3largeGravenstein,PinkPearl,orHiddenRoseapples(about1½poundstotal;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inch-thickwedges

3tablespoonsfirmlypackedbrownsugar1tablespoonfreshlemonjuice¾cup(130g)freshraspberries

1•First,makethecrust:Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,salt,andsugar until well combined (for instructions on making pie crust in a foodprocessor,seepage67).Sprinklethebuttercubesontopanduseyourfingerstoworkthemin(youwanttorubyourthumbagainstyourfingertips,smearingthebutter as youdo). Stopwhen themixture looks like cornmealwith somepea-sizedbitsofbutter remaining (try toworkquickly so thebutterdoesn’tmelt).Sprinkle3tablespoonsicewaterontopandstirwithaforkuntilthedoughjustbeginstocometogether.Ifneeded,addonemoretablespoonicewater.Turnthedoughoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandkneadjustenoughtofullycombine—threetimesshoulddoit.Gatherintoaball,thenpressintoadiskandwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigerateforatleast30minutes.

2•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothesecond-to-bottomposition.Inalargebowl,gentlytosstheapplesliceswiththebrownsugarandlemonjuice.Set aside. Unwrap the dough and put it in the center of a large piece of

parchment paper.Coverwith a second piece of parchment paper.Roll out thedough,workingfromthecenter,untilyouhavea10½-inchcircle.Peeloff thetopsheetofparchmentandcarefullytransferthedoughtoatartpan,peeledsidedown.Peelofftheremainingparchmentandpressthedoughintothesidesofthepan.Drapeanyexcessovertheedge,thenrunarollingpinovertheedgetotrim.

3•Prickthebottomofthecrustalloverwithafork.Arrangeappleslicesoverthe crust, then dot with raspberries. Pour juices from the bowl over the fruit.Bakeuntilthepastryisgoldenbrownandtheapplesaresoft,35to45minutes.Letcoolonarackfor30minutes,thenservewarmoratroomtemperature.

Free-FormApple-Pear-CranberryTart

Free-FormApple-Pear-CranberryTart

Ilovetherusticlookofthistartfilledwithslicedapples,pears,andcranberries.Rather thanbaking it inapieplate,yousimplyrollout the crust into a circle, fill it with fruit, and fold the sides up around thefilling. It’s sweet and tangy, doesn’t require any fussiness on your part, andmakesanimpressiveThanksgivingcenterpiece.It’sbestservedwithvanillaicecream.APPLE NOTES: Consult theCheat Sheet on page 30 for a list of firm-tart applevarieties.Anywillworkverywellhere.EQUIPMENT:Parchmentpaper;largerimmedbakingsheet

MAKES:8mediumservings,6largeservings•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,20minutes,plus30minuteschillingtime

FORTHECRUST

1¼cups(180g)all-purposeflour1tablespoongranulatedsugar½teaspoonkoshersalt8tablespoons(1stick;113g)chilledunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes1largeeggyolkmixedwith2tablespoonsicewater

FORTHEFILLING

2medium(or1½large)firm-tartapples(about12ouncestotal;seeAppleNotes)

1largeripepear,suchasd’AnjouorBartlett½cup(103g)plus1teaspoongranulatedsugar1tablespooncornstarch1teaspoonfreshlygratedorangezest⅛teaspoongroundcloves⅓cupfreshorthawedfrozencranberries1largeegg,beatenwell

1•First,makethecrust:Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,salt,andsugaruntilwellcombined.Sprinklethebuttercubesontopanduseyourfingers

toworkthemin(youwanttorubyourthumbagainstyourfingertips,smearingthebutterasyoudo).Stopwhenthemixturelookslikecornmealwithsomepea-sizedbitsofbutter remaining (try toworkquickly so thebutterdoesn’tmelt).Sprinkletheeggyolk–watermixtureontopandstirwithaforkuntilthedoughbegins to come together. If needed, add onemore tablespoonwater. Turn thedough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead three times.Gather into aball, thenpressintoadiskandwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigerateforatleast30minutes.

2•Meanwhile,preheattheovento400°Fandsetaracktothesecond-from-thebottomposition.Peel, core, and cut the apples into¼-inch-thickwedges.Peelandcutthepearinto½-inch-thickslices.Gentlytosstogetherinabowlandsetaside.Inasmallbowl,combine½cupofthesugar,thecornstarch,orangezest,andcloves;setaside.

3•Onalightlyflouredsurface,rollthedoughintoacircleabout16incheswideand⅛inchthick.Thecircledoesn’thavetobeperfect—thisisarusticdessert—buttrytogetitasroundaspossible,evenifthatmeanscuttingalittledoughoffone side to add to the other. Transfer the dough to a baking sheet linedwithparchmentpaper.

4 •Arrange half the apple and pear slices over the dough, leaving a 2½-inchborderallaround.Sprinklehalfthecranberriesovertheapples.Sprinklehalfthesugar-cornstarchmixture over the fruit, then repeatwith the fruit and then thesugarmixture.Fold thesidesof thedoughupandover theedgeof thefilling,allowing thedough todrapeover itselfateach fold.Brush thedoughwith thebeaten egg, and sprinkle allwith one teaspoonof sugar.Bake for 10minutes;lowerthetemperatureto375°F,andbakeuntilgoldenbrown,about25minutesmore.Letcoolonarackforatleast30minutes,thentransfertoaservingplatterandservewarm.

RusticAppleBrownBetty

This is perhaps the least-known member of the applecrisp/cobbler/buckle family of recipes. Like the others, it’s an American

originaldatingbacktothenineteenthcentury.Andlikemanyrecipesfromthatperiod, it’sa testament toeconomy, turningapplesandsomestalebread intoasweet,nutty,andcozyfruitdessertthattakesverylittletimetoputtogether.Thetrick is to make your own crumbs and toast them in the skillet before youassemblethedish.It’stheonlywaytogetthepropertoasty,butteryflavorandlight texture. Serve with vanilla or maple nut ice cream or a drizzle of freshcream.APPLENOTES:Firm-tartapples(seepage30)areidealhere,butIlikethoseonthesweeterendofthetartspectrumforthisdessert.TryArkansasBlack,Ashmead’sKernel,EsopusSpitzenburg,NorthernSpy,SierraBeauty,orStaymanWinesap,ifyoucan.NOTE:Moststandardbreadloavesweighaboutapound,souseaboutathirdofaloafhere.EQUIPMENT:12-inchheavy-bottomed,ovenproofskillet(preferablycastiron)


⅓pound(151g)crustywhite(notsourdough)bread,preferablyabitstale(seeNote)

⅓cup(50g)choppedwalnuts4tablespoons(½stick;57g)saltedbutter5 large firm-tart apples (about 2½ pounds total; seeAppleNotes), peeledandcutinto¼-inch-thickslices

⅓cup(80ml)maplesyrup

1•Preheat theovento350°Fandsetarackto themiddleposition.Breakthebreadintolargechunks.Inafoodprocessor,pulsethebreaduntilitformsfine,fluffycrumbs.Addthewalnutsandpulseaboutfourmoretimes,until thenutsarebrokenintosmallpieces.

2•Meltthebutterovermediumheatinaskillet.Addthebreadandnuts.Cook,stirringoften, until thebread looksgoldenbrownand toasted, 6 to8minutes.Using a slotted spoon, remove the crumb mixture from skillet. Transfer to abowl,andsetaside.

3•Addtheapples,maplesyrup,and¾cupwatertotheskillet,increasetheheat

tomedium-high,andcookuntilsomewaterisevaporatedandtheapplesarejustbecomingtender,6to8minutes.Sprinklethecrumbmixtureovertheapplesandbake until the apples are fully cooked and the sauce is bubbling, 15 to 20minutes.Letcoolonarackfor20minutes.Servewarmintheskillet.

Apple-PearCobblerwithLemon-CornmealBiscuits

Youknowyouhaveagooddessertwhen,afterspendingalldayinthekitchendevelopingit,youstillchoosetoeatanotherservinginsteadofaproperdinner.ThisisafreshandunexpectedtakeonaNewEnglandclassic,toppedwithtenderbutcrunchycornmealbiscuits,lacedwithlemonandglazed with cream and sugar. The apples and pears in the filling are fullycomplementary(remember:fruits thatsweeten togethercanbeeaten together!)andreallypopwithahitoflemonjuice.Servewithvanillaicecream,adrizzleoffreshcream,orsimplybyitself.APPLENOTES:The lemon flavors in thisdessertmake it anaturalmatch for theRhodeIslandGreening,PinkPearl,orRoxburyRusset,whilepearsgoverywellwithRibstonPippins.However, you can’t gowrongwith any firm-tart apples(seepage30).MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanprepare thefruit throughstep1up toadayaheadoftime(youmayneedtodraintheexcessjuice),butdon’tmakethebiscuitsuntiljustbeforebaking.EQUIPMENT:3-to4-quartDutchovenorotherdeepbakingdishwithsidesatleast3½incheshigh


FORTHEFILLING

2½pounds(1.13kg,orabout5large)firm-tartapples(seeAppleNotes)1½pounds(680g,orabout3large)ripepears,suchasBoscorBartlett⅓cup(75g)granulatedsugar3tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice2tablespoonsall-purposeflour1½tablespoons(21g)chilledsaltedbutter,cutinto½-inchcubes

FORTHETOPPING

1cup(145g)all-purposeflour1cup(170g)cornmeal(whiteoryellow,notstone-ground)3tablespoonsplus2teaspoonsgranulatedsugar2½teaspoonsbakingpowder1teaspoonkoshersalt1teaspoonfreshlygratedlemonzest1½tablespoons(21g)chilledsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces1cup(240ml)plus2tablespoonschilledheavycream

1 •Preheat theoven to400°F,andseta rack to themiddleposition.Peelandcoretheapplesandpears.Cuttheapplesinto¼-inch-thickslicesandthepearsinto½-inch-thickslices.PutinaDutchoven.Addthesugar,lemonjuice,flour,andbutter,andtosstocombine.Bake,uncovered,for20minutes.

2•Meanwhile,preparethetopping:Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,cornmeal, the 3 tablespoons sugar, the baking powder, salt, and lemon zest.Sprinklethebutterontopanduseyourfingerstoworkitin,formingthinflakes.Whenthedoughbeginstolooklikecornmeal,addthe1cupcreamandstirwitha fork until the dough just comes together. Gently pat out on a well-flouredsurfacetoa¾-inchthickness.Useabiscuitcutterorjuiceglasswitha2-to3-inchdiameter to cutoutbiscuits, scrapingand re-rolling thedoughasneeded.Chill the biscuits in the refrigerator while the fruit finishes the first round ofcooking.

3•Removethefruitmixturefromtheovenandgiveitaquickstir—itshouldlooksofterandalittleglossy.Arrangethebiscuitsontop,overlappingslightlyinconcentriccircles,brushwith the remaining2 tablespoonscream,andsprinklewith theremaining2 teaspoonssugar.Bake,uncovered,until the top isgoldenbrownandsauce isbubbling,about35minutes.Coolona rack forat least20minutes,thenservewarm.

ButtermilkAppleBuckle

Ilovethewholeclassofhomeyfruit-baseddessertslikebuckles,grunts, slumps, pandowdies, crisps, and cobblers, as much fortheirirresistiblyold-fashionednamesasfortheeating.Bydefinition,abuckleisa cake studdedwith fruit and cappedwith a crumble topping. In this one, thespicedapplessettledownintothecakebatterduringcooking,whilemostofthepecan crumble mixture stays on top. Buttermilk lends extra tenderness and adelicatetangtothecake.APPLENOTES:Noneedtoseekoutspecificvarietieshere.Anyfirm-tartfruit(seepage30)willdoagoodjobofdistinguishingitselffromthesweetcake.NOTE: Ifyoudon’thavebuttermilkonhand,youcansubstituteclabberedmilk:Addonetablespoonoflemonjuiceorwhitewinevinegarto1cupofwholeor2%milkandletstandfor10minutesbeforeusing.EQUIPMENT:9-by13-inchbakingpan


FORTHETOPPING

2 large firm-tart apples (about 1 pound total; see Apple Notes), peeled,cored,andcutinto⅛-inch-thickslices

¼teaspoonplus1teaspoongroundcinnamon1tablespoongranulatedsugar½cup(115g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar⅓cup(48g)all-purposeflour¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg½cup(50g)finelychoppedpecans3tablespoons(46g)coldsaltedbutter,cut intosmallcubes,plusmoreforgreasingpan

FORTHECAKE

7tablespoons(100g)saltedbutter,atroomtemperature¾cup(155g)granulatedsugar2¼cups(325g)all-purposeflour1½teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsoda1½teaspoonskoshersalt

1cup(240ml)buttermilk(seeNote)1largeegg

1 •Preheat theoven to350°F,andseta rack to themiddleposition.Greaseabaking pan. In a medium bowl, toss the apple slices with the ¼ teaspooncinnamonand1tablespoonsugar.Setasideatroomtemperature.

2•Meanwhile, inasmallbowl, toss theremaining1 teaspooncinnamonwiththebrownsugar,flour,nutmeg,andpecans.Scatterthecoldbutteroverallanduseapastrycutterorforktoworkitinuntilthemixturelookslikewetsandandthelargestpiecesarepea-sized.Refrigerateuntilreadytouse.

3 • Make the cake: Using a standing or hand-held mixer with a whiskattachment,creamtogetherthebutterandsugarinalargebowluntilthemixtureis fluffy, very pale, andmousselike in texture, 6 to 10minutes. In a separatebowl,whisktogethertheflour,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsalt.Inathirdbowl,whisktogetherthebuttermilkandegg.Addone-thirdoftheflourmixtureto the buttermixture.Mix briefly, then add half the buttermilk-egg blend andmixagain.Repeat,addinganotherthirdoftheflourmixtureandtheremainingbuttermilk-eggmixture,thenfinishwiththeremainingthirdoftheflourmixtureandstirjustuntilcombined.

4 • Spread the batter evenly into the baking pan (it will be quite thick). Layapple slices, overlapping slightly, over the batter in neat rows. Sprinkle thecrumble toppingoverall.Bakeuntil the top isgoldenanda toothpick insertedinto the center comes out clean, 35 to 45minutes. Let cool on a rack for 30minutes,thenservewarmfromthepan.

WilliamsburgWrapples

WilliamsburgWrapples

The Williamsburg General Store in Williamsburg,Massachusetts, where I worked for a summer during college, is afavoritestopontheoldtwo-lanehighwayfromBostontotheBerkshires.Nowrefashionedfortourists,thestorehasanicecreamshop,awallofpennycandy,hundreds of kitchen gadgets, and a bakerywhere customers line up for fresh-bakedbreads,cakes,andWrapples,thesignaturepastryrollsstuffedwithapples

andcinnamonandglazedwithsugar.They’re likeapplepies, repackaged.Thestorehasitsownwinningrecipe,butIreverse-engineeredacloseapproximation,heavieronthelemonflavor,thatearnsitsownraves.APPLE NOTES: I recommend using only firm-tart apples (see page 30) in thisrecipe because with its high crust-to-filling ratio, it needs a little acidity tobalanceoutallthatrichness.Anyfirm-tartvarietywilldonicely.NOTE:Abenchscraperisausefultoolwhenrollingupthesewrapples.Itcangetunderthedoughandhelpliftanyspotsthatarestickingtothecounter.EQUIPMENT:Benchscraper;largerimmedbakingsheet


FORTHECRUST

2½cups(360g)all-purposeflour1teaspoonkoshersalt3tablespoonsgranulatedsugar18tablespoons(2¼sticks;255g)unsaltedbutter,frozenandcutintosmallcubes

6to8tablespoons(90to120ml)icewater

FORTHEFILLING

3 largefirm-tartapples, (about1½poundstotal;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutintoverythin(about⅛-inch-thick)slices

½cup(105g)granulatedsugar2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice½teaspoonfreshlygratedlemonzest2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

FORTHEGLAZE

1cup(120g)confectioners’sugar

1•First,makethecrust:Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,salt,andsugaruntilwellcombined(forinstructionsonmakingcrustinafoodprocessor,seepage67).Sprinklethebuttercubesontopanduseyourfingerstoworktheminbyrubbingyourthumbagainstyourfingertips,smearingthebutterasyoudo.Stopwhen themixture looks likewet sandwith somepea-sized bits of butter

remaining (try toworkquickly so thebutterdoesn’tmelt).Sprinkle¼cup icewaterontopandstirwithaforkuntilthedoughjustbeginstocometogether.Ifneeded,addmoreicewater,onetablespoonatatime.Turnthedoughoutontoalightly floured surface and knead just until smooth—three times should do it.Gatherthedoughintoaball,thendivideinhalfandpresseachpieceintoadisk.Wrapinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast30minutes.

2•Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,combineappleslices,sugar,lemonjuiceandzest,andcinnamon.Stirwell,thenletsitatroomtemperatureuntilthedoughischilled.

3•Preheattheovento400°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Removethefirst disk of dough from the refrigerator.On a floured surface, roll out into arectangleabout16incheswide,12incheslong,and⅛ inchthick(ifthedoughbecomessoftorstickyatanypointduringthisprocess,putitinthefreezerfor10minutes). Cut the dough from top to bottom into four strips, each about 4incheswide.

4 •Now, roll up thewrapples.You’rebasicallymaking a jelly roll, onlywithapplesasthefilling.Layfourappleslicesonthepastryabout4inchesfromthebottomofthefirststrip.Overlapthemlikeshingles.Useyourbenchscrapertohelpyoufoldthebottom4inchesofdoughupovertheapples.Layerafewmoreappleslicesjustabovetheseam,thenfoldthedoughoverthoseslices,creatingaroll.Repeatoncemoreuntilyoureachthetopofthestrip.Presstheseamtosealthepacket,thenrefrigerateuncovered.Repeatwithremainingstrips,thenrepeatwithseconddiskofdough.Youshouldhaveeightpacketsinall.

5•Arrangethepacketsonanungreasedbakingsheet,putthemintheoven,andimmediately reduce the heat to 350°F. Bake until golden brown, 30 to 35minutes.Meanwhile,combinetheconfectioners’sugarwith2tablespoonswaterand stir until smooth. Remove thewrapples from the oven, transfer to awirecoolingracksetoverabakingsheet,cooltoroomtemperature,anddrizzlewiththesugarglaze.

AppleEmpanadas

Thisrecipeisinspiredbythefriedapplepies,filledwithreconstituted dried apples and spices, that hold a place of honor amongSouthern cooks, particularly in apple-growing regions of Appalachia, wherepeople commonly dried their apples to store through the winter. Looking tolightenthingsupabit,Itriedbakingthepiesinsteadoffryingthem,andfoundthatIlikedtheresultsjustaswell.APPLENOTES:Driedappleringsprovideawonderfulconcentratedappleflavorinthisdish.DogooutofyourwaytofindtheunsulfuredtypesoldatWholeFoodsand other health food stores. The ivory-colored, mushier “dried” apple ringsyou’ll find at most regular supermarkets tend to puff up during cooking intosomethingnearlyunrecognizableasanapple,bothinflavorandappearance.NOTE:Theamountofcideryou’llneedforthefillingdependsonthetextureofthedriedapplesyouuse.Somearesimplydrierthanothers.Useasmuchasyouneedtokeepthefillingmoistandglossy.EQUIPMENT:Largebakingsheet

MAKES:10individualpies•ACTIVETIME:1hour,30minutes•TOTALTIME:2hours

FORTHECRUST

2½cups(360g)all-purposeflour2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar½teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoontablesalt16 tablespoons (2 sticks; 84 g) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into smallcubes

1largeegg,lightlybeaten¼cup(60ml)icewater

FORTHEFILLING

6ounces(170g)driedapplerings,preferablyunsulfured(seeAppleNotes)1teaspoongroundcinnamon1½tablespoonsfirmlypackedlightbrownsugar2to2½cups(475to590ml)freshapplecider(seeNote)½teaspooncidervinegar

⅛teaspoonkoshersalt

Confectioners’sugarforsprinkling

1 • First,make the crust: In amedium bowl,whisk together the flour, sugar,bakingpowder, and salt untilwell combined.Sprinkle thebutter cubeson topanduseyourfingerstoworkthemin(youwanttorubyourthumbagainstyourfingertips, smearing the butter as you do). Stop when the mixture looks likecornmealwithsomepea-sizedbitsofbutterremaining.Whisktheeggwiththeice water and drizzle evenly on top. Gently stir with a fork until combined.Continueaddingwater,onetablespoonatatime,untilthedoughcomestogether.Working in thebowl,knead thedoughuntil smooth,nomore than four times.Formintoaball,press intoadisk,andwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigerateforatleast30minutes.

2 •Meanwhile, make the filling: Combine the apple rings, cinnamon, brownsugar,and2cupsappleciderinalargesaucepanoverhighheat.Bringtoaboil,then reduce the heat tomedium-low,maintaining a gentle simmer. Cover andcook,occasionally stirringandmashing theappleswithawoodenspoon,untilthey’reverysoftwith the thicknessofachunkyapplesauce,15 to20minutes.Addadditionalcider,¼cupata time,asneeded.Stir in thecidervinegarandsalt.Removefromtheheatandletcool.

3•Preheattheovento400°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Toassemblethe empanadas, unwrap the dough and put on awell-floured cutting board orcountertop.Rollout,workingfromthecenter,toforma⅛-inch-thickcircle.Peeloffthetopsheetofparchmentand,usinga5-inchcircularcookiecutter(Iuseacereal bowl), cut out ten rounds, re-rolling the dough as needed. Scoop 1tablespoon filling into the center of each round and fold the dough over thefilling.Lightlymoistentheedgeswithwaterandcrimpwithaforktoseal.

4 • Transfer the empanadas to an ungreased baking sheet and bake for 10minutes. Reduce the heat to 350°F and bake, rotating the pan 180 degreeshalfwaythroughcooking,untilthecrustisgoldenbrown,20to25minutesmore.Transfer the pies to a cooling rack for at least 30 minutes. Sprinkle withconfectioners’sugarandservewarmoratroomtemperature.

ApplePandowdy

Another old-fashioned charmer from New England, thepandowdyis,bydefinition,acookedfruitdessertsweetenedwithmaplesyrupormolassesandtoppedwithpiepastry.Foodhistoriansdateitbacktothenineteenth century; itwas reportedly a favorite of President JohnAdams.Thename refers to the act of “dowdying” the crust—that is, breaking it upwith aknifeandpressingitintothebubblingjuices—midwaythroughbaking.BackinAdams’sday,crustsweren’tthebutterybeautiestheyaretoday.Theywereflourandwater“pastes,”and theyneededagooddunking tobe truly flavorful.Butevenanice flakypastrycanbe improvedby this technique,andwhat thedishlacksinstreamlinedgoodlooks,itmorethanmakesupforinrichflavor.APPLE NOTES: If you can, use a mix of firm-tart apples (see page 30) formaximumflavorvariety.Thetartnessisessentialinbalancingouttherichnessofthe crust, but beyond that, this dish is a blank canvas that you can layerwithdifferentappleflavors.NOTE:Thefillingforadowdyshouldbewetterattheoutsetthanthatofapieoracrisp.As thecrustbakes,partiallysubmerged in thefilling, ithasa thickeningeffect.EQUIPMENT:12-inchovenproofskilletwithsidesatleast2incheshigh(preferablycastiron)

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME:1hour•TOTALTIME:1hour,45minutes

FORTHECRUST

1¼cups(185g)plus2tablespoonsall-purposeflour1tablespoongranulatedsugar½teaspoonkoshersalt9tablespoons(126g)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes3to5tablespoons(45to60ml)icewater

FORTHEFILLING

8 large firm-tart apples (about 4 pounds total; see Apple Notes), peeled,cored,andsliced¼-inchthick

2tablespoonsfirmlypackedlightbrownsugar1teaspoongroundcinnamon

1teaspoongroundginger¼teaspoonfreshlygroundnutmeg⅛teaspoongroundcloves½teaspoonkoshersalt⅓cup(80ml)maplesyrup

1½tablespoonsgranulatedsugarforsprinkling

1•First,makethecrust:Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,sugar,andsaltuntilwell combined (for instructionsonmakingcrust in a foodprocessor,seepage67).Sprinklethebuttercubesontopanduseyourfingerstoworkthemin (youwant to rubyour thumbagainstyour fingertips, smearing thebutterasyoudo).Dothisuntilthemixturelookslikecornmealwithsomepea-sizedbitsofbutterremaining.Sprinkle3tablespoonsicewaterontopandstirwithaforkuntil thedoughbegins tocome together. Ifneeded,addanother tablespoon icewater(youshouldn’tneedmuchmore).Turnthedoughoutontoalightlyflouredsurface and knead three times.Gather the dough into a ball, then press into adiskandwrapinplasticwrap.Refrigerateforatleast30minutes.

2•Preheattheovento425°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Arrangetheapples in a skillet. Sprinkle with the brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg,cloves,andsalt.Inasmallbowl,stirthemaplesyrupwith½cupwaterandpourovertheapples.

3•Onalightlyflouredsurface,rollthechilleddoughoutintoarectangleabout9incheswide,11incheslong,and¼inchthick.Usingaknifeorpizzacutter,cutinto squares roughly 3 inches across. Arrange the squares over the apples,makingaconcentricpattern,thensprinklewithsugar.Bakethepandowdyuntiljuicesarebubblingandthepastryisgoldenbrown,about30minutes.Removefromtheovenanduseaspatulatogentlypressthepastrydownintothejuicessoit’smostly(about80%)submerged.Returnthepantotheovenandbakeforanadditional10 to15minutes,until thepastry isnicelyglazedand thesaucehasthickened.

CHAPTERNINE

DUMPLINGS,BAKES,CAKES,ANDPUDDINGS

Keepsake

REDISCOVERINGFORGOTTENFRUITS:

ThePreservationOrchardsofPalermo,Maine

JohnBunkerwas21,arecentgraduateofColbyCollege,whenhefellinlovewithapples.Itwas1972,andheandsomefriendshadjustpurchased100acresofdirt-cheaplandinPalermo,Maine,asasortofback-to-the-landexperiment.TheynameditSuperChillyFarm.

Walking around the forest and pastures of his new home, he encounteredcraggyoldappletrees,mostofthemstillbearingfruit.“Iwaslookingforafreeride wherever I could get it,” he says wryly. “And here was this free fruitdroppingfromtrees.”

From that inauspicious beginning, sitting in the crook of a tree like amodern-dayThoreau,camealife’swork:AnefforttokeepMaine’sonce-prizedapplevarietiesaliveandtorescuethepomologicalhistoryofatimewheneverytown,ifnoteveryfarm,haditsownfavoritebreedofapple.Threedecadesinto

thisproject,Bunker isnowanationallyrecognizedexpertonantiqueapples,apartnerinasuccessfulfruittree,berry,andornamentalscooperativecalledFedcoTrees,andthefounderofthecountry’sfirstappleCSA(CommunitySupportedAgriculture), called Out on a Limb, in which subscribers pay in advance toreceiveabiweeklyselectionofunusualandheirloomapplesfromseveralfarmsincentralMaine—varietiessuchasAshmead’sKernel,Wickson,Fameuse,andBluePearmain.He has become a sort ofmodern-day JohnnyAppleseed, onlyratherthancreatingnewapplevarietiesbyscatteringseedswilly-nillyoverthecountry,he’sleadingusbacktothebestofthoseseedlingsinordertopreservetheoldways.

AtthetimewhenBunkerwasfirstroamingthefieldsofMainethatheritagewasfading.“Mostoftheoldfarmersweregrandparentsbythen,livingathomewhiletheirchildrenwereworkinginAugustaorWaterville,”hesays.“Itwasn’tafarmingeconomyanymore.Thesetreeswereonehundred,onehundredfifty,twohundredyearsold,andtheydidn’tknowthatthetwentiethcenturyhadcomeandnoonewanted tofarmanymore.So theywerehappytohavemeclimbinthemandpicktheirfruit.”

Whenhespeaksofthetreesinthisway,asiftheyaresentientbeings,hecansound verymuch like the hippie homesteader he probablywas back in 1972.Today, though,Bunkermostlyhas theairofa taciturnMainer, slightof figureand almost professorial in appearance, but for his calloused hands and ruddycomplexion.Heisasrootedinthisplaceasthetreesaroundhim.

Inthoseearlydays,whenhe’dspendanafternoonmerelywalkingandeatingapples,healsobegantalkingtotheretiredfarmershemet.“Theyintroducedmetotheapplevarietiestheyknew.”hesays.“Inthenineteenthcentury,everyfarmhadanorchardof fifteen, twenty trees. Icouldsee therewasanassortmentofcolors, shapes, sizes, and uses in these apples. And it dawned on me that Iwantedtohavesomethinglikethatgrowinginmyownyard.”

Togetstarted,heboughtsomeyoungappletrees,RedandGoldenDeliciousandthelike.ButtheyflounderedinPalermo’sharshclimate,wherethegroundcan stay frozen fromNovember tomid-April andMay frosts canwipe out anentireapplecrop.“Icouldn’tgetitoutofmyheadthattherewerealltheseoldtrees all around me that were doing great,” he says. Then a few chanceencounters set his course: First, an elderly neighbor, an old farmer known asPapaGlidden,introducedhimtotheconceptofgraftingandencouragedhimtolearnthetechniquefromotherfarmers.Notlongafterthat,anoldmancameintothe Belfast,Maine, food co-op that Bunker wasmanaging at the time with a

bushelofunusual apples: verydarkpurple, smaller in size, lookingmuch likeplums.Themansaid theywereanoldMainevarietycalledBlackOxford(seepage33foradescription),andhewantedtosellthemonconsignment.Bunkertookabiteandpromptlyboughtthewholebushelforhimself.Later,hegotsomescionwoodandgraftedBlackOxfordontohisowntrees.

He suspected that therewas a regionalmarket for apples like this, rich inhistory and already adapted to theDown East climate. So as he launched hisFedco tree business, he began scouring rural Maine for apples that were“unusual,historic,andhighquality,”asheputsit.Whenhefoundonesheliked,hepropagatedthemandsoldthemtoothergrowers.

Hisreasonsforresurrectingtheseoldtreeswerepartlypractical—theywereproven,aknownquantity.Butthereweredeeperreasons.Hesawtheapplesasasort of inheritance, a gift from earlier generations. And he wanted to endowfuturegenerationswiththatsamegift.“Theseapplesconnectustoourheritage,”he says. “Whether we’ve lived here all our lives or for just a month, we’restandingontheearthandthatearthhasahistory.It’simportanttoknowitandbeconnectedtoit.”

Andsohebecameafruitdetective.“Ibegantodiscovervarietiesthatwerenearlylost,”hesays.Aswordspreadofhisefforts,otherMainersbegantoseekhimout.Thisapplegrowsonmyland,they’dsay.Idon’tknowwhatit is.Canyouhelp?He’dbeginbytalkingwithlocals,diggingthrougholdvolumesofS.A. Beach’s 1905 reference book The Apples of New York, looking at oldcatalogs. “It’s extremelydifficult to identify them,”he says. “It takesdecades.SometimesIcanidentifythemquickly,simplybecausetherightperson,whoIdeterminecan’tpossiblybewrong,says‘That’swhatitis.’”

But most of the time, he has to dig deeper. He began posting handmade“Wanted”postersaroundthestate,describingtheapplevarietieshewasseeking.Hestilldoesthis.Inonesuchcase,hepostedsignsinquiringaboutMarlboro,anativeMainevarietythathehadheardreferencesto,butneveractuallyseen.HeknewtheapplecamefromLamoine,atinytownnearBarHarbor,andhehadaroughvisualdescription,butthatwasit.

Soonafter theposterswentup,awomancalledhim.“Shesaid, ‘IowntheoldSenecaRemickfarmwherethisappleoriginated,butI’mnotsurewhichtreeitis.Thereareabouttwentyofthem.I’llsendyoufruitfromeveryone.’”Sureenough,abigboxfulloffruitarrivedafewdayslater.Mostoftheappleswerefamiliar and easily named. But one tree was a puzzle. It had produced twoentirelydifferentvarieties,neitherofwhichwasreadily identifiable toBunker.

He knew that it was likely a so-called “family tree,” in which two or morevarieties are grafted onto a single rootstock. But with no other identifyinginformation,itwasalsoadeadend.

He set that search aside for a time, but a year or two later, he gave thewomananothercall.She toldhim that they’dhadaverygoodapplecrop thatyearandinvitedhimtocomeforavisit.

Whenhearrived,hewentstraighttothemysterytree.Itwasindeedafamilytree,graftedwiththreedifferentvarieties.“Irecognizedthetwoapplesshehadsent me, and this time I was able to determine that one of them was anAlexanderandthesecondwasTolmanSweet,”hesays.“But therewasa thirdtype,whichwasjustasinglebranchonthetree,anditwasclearlynothingI’deverseenbefore.IhadthedescriptionoftheMarlborowithme,andIrealizedthatthiswasit.”Infact,thiswasthelastknownMarlborobranchinexistence,andhehadfounditjustintime.“Withoutthatposter,”hesays,“Ineverwouldhave.”Sincethen,hehasgraftedseveral treeswithMarlborofor thepeopleofLamoine,and they, in turn,havediscovered that itmakesa fineapplepieandstoreswellthroughthewinter.

As with the Marlboro, Bunker finds that he’s oftenworkingagainst time.Many of the original nineteenth-century trees areeithergoneornearingtheendoftheirlives.AndastheoldMainefarmerspassaway,sodoestheirknowledge.

Inmanyways,Bunkerisalsoworkingagainstprogress(which,likebeauty,isintheeyeofthebeholder).Thepracticeofapplegrowinghasshiftedalmostexclusively in recent decades from standard-sized trees, which typically growtwenty or thirty feet high and can live for a century or two, to miniaturerootstocks, which allow farmers to fit many more trees onto their existingacreage, but rarely survive for more than thirty years. Dwarf trees aretremendouslyefficient,butrelativelyshort-lived.

“If our ancestors had planted only dwarfs or semi-dwarfs, therewould benothing left for us,” he says. “Sometimes I’ll find an old, standard tree withincredible fruit that hasn’t been touched for decades. It’s just been waitingbehind a Walmart for someone to come along and discover it. These areincrediblypatientbeasts.Thedwarfswould’vebeenlonggone.”

The treesonBunker’s farmare standing fast, as is thewood-heated, solar-

poweredlogcabinthathebuiltforhimselfinthe1970s,completewithanicelysited outhouse and a view of the surroundingwoods. It’swherewe sit today,enjoyingthewoodstoveandwatchingthethinafternoonlightgrowdim.Onlynowit’sahousefortheapprenticeswhotravelfromaroundthecountrytolearnhis trade.Bunkerandhiswiferecentlybuiltamoreconventionalhouseonthepropertywithcreaturecomfortslikestandardplumbing,awood-firedbreadovenin the kitchen, and a large root cellar underneath. It’s a comfortable place tosettle into and, as Bunker enters his early sixties, contemplate something likeretirement.But theworkwon’t reallystop.Toomanypeopleare invested in itnow.

“Iget invitedinto thehomesofall thesestrangers,”hesays.Peoplewhoselives,politics,andreligionmaydifferfromhis.“Theydidn’tthinkanyoneelsecaredabouttheiroldfruit.Buttheyknowthatwehavethisthingincommon—thislovefortheseapplesthathavecapturedtheimaginationsofAmericansinsomanyways.Whatawonderfulpositiontobein.”

Cider-BakedApples

Finally, a virtuous, yet fully satisfying dessert! It’s alsoincredibly simple—just whole, cored apples stuffed with driedcranberries, pecans, and a little brown sugar—and takes almost no time toprepare.Serveasacapperforrichmeals(suchastheCalvadosbraisedporkonpage140)orasasidedishforbrunch.APPLENOTES:PinkLadyandJazzapplesareidealforbakingbecauseunliketheskinofmostvarieties,theirsretainsitsrosyhue,evenafterspending45minutesina350°Foven.EQUIPMENT:9-by13-inchbakingdish


6largePinkLadyorJazzapples(about3poundstotal;seeAppleNotes)¼cupchoppedpecans(35g)¼cupchoppedsweeteneddriedcranberries(33g)1cup(240ml)freshapplecider⅓cup(75g)packedlightbrownsugar

2cinnamonsticks,eachbrokeninto2pieces2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice

1•Preheattheovento375°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Prepareeachapplebyfirstslicingoffthetop¾inch,stemandall.Setasidethetops.Coretheappleswithanapplecorer,thenarrangeinanungreasedbakingdish.Dividethepecans and cranberries among the apples, stuffing them into the hollowed-outcores.Coverwiththereservedtops.

2 • In a small bowl, stir together the cider and brown sugar. Pour around theapples,thenaddthecinnamonstickstothepan.

3 • Cover the pan with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil andcontinuetobake.Checktheapplesevery5minutestocheckfordoneness.Theywillbedonewhentender(testbypokingwithasharpknife),butnotyetsplittingtheirskins.Theyshouldneedabout15moreminutestotal.Transfertheapplestoindividualservingbowlsandletcoolforafewminutes.

4•Removethecinnamonsticksfromthepan,andpour thecidersauceintoapitcher.Addlemonjuice,thenpourthesauceovertheapplesandservewarmoratroomtemperature.

BakedAppleswithFrangipaneFilling

These are not your usual baked apples! They’re filledwith frangipane (pronounced “frahn-jee-PAHN” or “FRAN-jih-pain,”dependingonhowfancyyouwanttobe),asweet,almond-richpastethatdatesback to seventeenth-century Italy. It commonly appears in the classic Frenchpeartart,tarteauxpoires,whichmademethink,“Well,whynotapples?”AndasIwasmullingvariationsonbakedapples,thisseemedlikeanaturalextension.APPLENOTES:AswiththeCider-BakedApplesonpage228,IusePinkLadyandJazzapplesforbakingbecausetheskinretainsitsrosyhueandmakesaprettierpresentation.NOTE:Youcanfindalmondpasteinthebakingaisleofmostsupermarkets.

EQUIPMENT:Melonballer;9-by13-inchbakingdish


1½cups(360ml)freshapplecider¼cup(60g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar8largeJazzorPinkLadyapples(about5poundstotal;seeAppleNotes)1(7-ounceor200g)tubealmondpaste(notmarzipan,seeNote)4tablespoons(½stick;57g)saltedbutter1largeegg¼cup(36g)all-purposeflour½teaspoonkoshersalt¼teaspoonalmondextract3tablespoonschoppeddriedcherries3tablespoonssliveredalmonds

1•Preheattheovento375°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheciderandbrownsugarforthesauce.Setaside.

2 • Using amelon baller andworking from the top (stem end) of the apple,scoopout the apple core and seeds down to about¼ inch from the base.Youwanttocreateacavityabout1¼incheswideforthefilling.Then,usingapeeler,peel away a 1-inch band of skin from the top so that there’s a nice ring ofexposedflesh(thisisjustforappearance).

3 • In the bowl of a standingmixer (or in a large bowl if using a hand-heldmixer), cream the almond paste with the butter. Add the egg, flour, salt, andalmond extract. Gently stir in the cherries and almonds andmix until evenlydistributed.

4•Arrangetheapplesinanungreasedbakingdish.Usingateaspoonandyourfingers,stuffeachapplewithanequalportionoffilling(dependingonthesizeofyourapples,youmayhavealittlebitleftover).Pourthecidermixtureintothedish,coverwithfoil,andbakefor25minutes.Removethefoil,bastetheapples,and cook until tender but still intact, about 30minutesmore (check every 10

minutestotestfordonenessbypokingtheappleswithasharpknife—itshouldslide in easily). Let the pan cool on a rack for 20 minutes, then serve inindividualbowls,drizzledwiththecidersauce.

AppleDumplingswithCider-RumSauce

I love the lookofanappledumpling, the fruitsocozilybundledinits little four-point package. They have roots in PennsylvaniaDutchcountry,wherethepastriesemergedasacleveruseforleftoverpiedoughonbakingday.Servedwithaglossycidersaucespikedwithrum, they’reverysimple,andmuchmorethanthesumoftheirparts.APPLENOTES:Anyfirm-sweetapple(seepage30)willtastegreatwiththesauce,but theapplesneed tobe small to fit inside thepastry—about3 inches tall. Ifyouonlyhavelargeapplesonhand,justtrimenoughoffthebottomtocutthemdowntothedesiredheight.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanprepare thedough throughstep2up toadayahead,thenassemblethedumplingsjustbeforebaking.EQUIPMENT:Parchmentpaper;1-to2-quartsaucepan

MAKES:6dumplings•ACTIVETIME:50minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,30minutes

FORTHEDOUGH

2cups(290g)all-purposeflour2teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspoontablesalt1tablespoongranulatedsugar6tablespoons(85g)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes2tablespoonscoldvegetableshortening½cup(120ml)coldmilk

FORTHESAUCE

1¾cups(475ml)freshapplecider⅓cup(79ml)darkrum,suchasGosling’sbrand½cup(115g)packedlightbrownsugar

FORTHEAPPLES

¼cup(60g)packedlightbrownsugar½teaspoongroundcinnamon6small(under3inchestall)firm-sweetapples(about4ounceseach,or1½poundstotal;seeAppleNotes)

1•Cuttwopiecesofparchmentpapertoalengthof16inches.Setaside.

2 • Make the dough: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, bakingpowder,salt,andsugar.Sprinklethebuttercubesandshorteningontopanduseyour fingers to work them in (you want to rub your thumb against yourfingertips, smearing the butter as you do). Stop when the mixture looks likecornmealwithsomepea-sizedbitsofbutter remaining (try toworkquicklysothe butter doesn’t melt). Add the milk and stir with a fork until the mixturebeginstoholdtogether.Emptythedoughontoonepieceofparchmentpaperandkneadthreetimesuntil thedoughfeelscohesive.Shapeintoaroughrectangle,then cover with the second piece of parchment paper and roll out to a roughrectangleabout11incheswideand16incheslong.Chillintherefrigeratorforatleast30minutes.

3•Meanwhile,preheattheovento425°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Makethesauce:Inasaucepanoverhighheat,stir together thecider, rum,andbrownsugar.Simmerfor5minutes,thenremovefromtheheatandsetaside.

4 • Prepare the apples: In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar andcinnamon; set aside. Peel and core the apples and trim as needed (see AppleNotes).

5•Removethedoughfromtherefrigeratorandusearulerandaknifetotrimtoanexact10-by15-inchrectangle.Cutintosix5-inchsquares.Setoneappleinthecenterofeachsquareandfillthecenterwiththebrownsugarmixture.Bringthe corners of the pastry up together around the apples to make four points,gentlysealingatthetopandalongtheseamssothatthepastryfitssnugly.Placeeachdumplinginanungreasedbakingdish,pourthesaucearoundall,andbake,uncovered, for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 375°F and bake until thedumplingsaregoldenbrownandthesauceisbubbling,25to30minutesmore.

Servewarm,inabowl,withextrasaucepouredoverthetop.

AppleBreadPuddingwithSaltedCaramelSauce

Breadpuddingisacrowd-pleaser,butit’sunusualforthishomeydesserttoprovetrulymemorable.Thisversion,studdedwithtangyapplesandservedwithacrowninggloryofhomemadecaramelsauce,breaksthemold. Prepare a half portion of the CaramelizedApples on page 247 for thisrecipe,using2½largefirm-sweetapples.APPLENOTES:Firm-sweetapples(seepage30)haveenoughbodytostanduptonearlyanhourintheoven,andtheirsweetnesspairswellwiththecaramel.Anyvarietywillworkwellhere.EQUIPMENT:11-by7-inchbakingpan;2-to3-quartsaucepan

MAKES:6servings•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,15minutes,plusatleast2hourschillingtime

Butterforgreasingpan1 loaf (1 pound or 455 g) crusty white bread, such as Pullman style orItalian

½portionofCaramelizedApples(about1½cups;seepage247)3largeeggs2cups(480ml)half-and-half¼cup(51g)granulatedsugar¼cup(60g)packedlightbrownsugar1tablespoonvanillaextract½teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoonkoshersalt

FORTHESALTEDCARAMELSAUCE

1cup(410g)granulatedsugar1cup(240ml)heavycream¾teaspoonkoshersalt

1•Butterabakingpan.Setaside.Trimthecrustsoffthesidesandendsofthebreadloaf, leavingthetopandbottomintact.Cut the loaf into1½-inchpieces.Arrange the pieces evenly in the prepared pan. Tuck the caramelized applesdownamongthebreadpieces.

2 • In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, half-and-half, sugars, vanilla,cinnamon,andsalt.Pouroverthebread,thencoverandrefrigerateforatleast2hoursandupto8hours.

3•About15minutesbeforeyou’rereadytobakethepudding,preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Tossthebreadcubesandappleswithyourhandssothatallthepiecesaremoistened.Bakethepuddinguntilthetopisgoldenbrownandthecustardisset,about50minutes.Meanwhile,makethecaramel:Pour¾cupwaterintothesaucepan.Addthesugarinamoundinthecenterofthepotsothatnoneofittouchesthesides.Putthepotonhighheat,cover,andcookuntil thesugardissolvesandthemixturebegins tobubbleandturnapaleamber,12to15minutes.Donotswirlorstirduringthistime.Reducetheheattomedium-lowandcookuntil thecaramelturnsadarkerambercolor.Removefromtheheatandcarefullyaddcream—therewillbeaburstofsteam,sobecareful.Addsaltandstir.

4•Servethepuddinghotinindividualbowls,withcaramelpouredovertop.

CinnamonRicePuddingwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote

I likemyricepuddingtobeloadedwithrichcinnamon.Usingbothsticksandpowdercreateslovelylayersofflavor.It’scomfortfoodatitsbest,andit’slowinfat,too.EQUIPMENT:4-quartsaucepan


1cup(200g)short-grainricesuchasArborioorCanaroli

2cinnamonsticks4½(1.1L)cupsmilk⅔(140g)cupsugar½teaspoongroundcinnamon2largeeggyolks,lightlybeaten½vanillabeanor1½teaspoonsvanillaextract1teaspoonkoshersalt1teaspoonfreshlemonzestSpicedApple-CranberryCompote(page236)

1•Combine3cupswater,therice,andcinnamonsticksinalargesaucepanoverhighheat.Bringtoaboil,thenreducetheheattomedium-low,cover,andgentlysimmeruntilthericehasabsorbedalmostallthewater,about20minutes.

2•Stirinthemilk,sugar,andgroundcinnamon.Increasetheheattomedium-highandcook, stirring,until themixturebegins tobubble.Reduce theheat tolowandcontinuetosimmer,stirringoften,untilthericeabsorbsabouthalfthemilk,15to20minutes.

3•Spoon½cuppuddingintoasmallbowl,thenquicklystirintheeggyolks.Returnthemixturetothepot.Stirinthevanillaandsaltandcontinuecooking,stirringoften,untilthericeisverytenderandthesauceisthickenedandcreamy,10 to 15 minutes more. Serve warm in bowls, topped with Spiced Apple-CranberryCompote.

SpicedApple-CranberryCompote

Compotesarelikecookedfruitsalads;thecookingallowsyou to produce a silky texture and to infuse the wonderful aromas ofspices, herbs, citrus peel, and other flavorings. For best results, make thiscompoteadayaheadtolettheflavorsintensifyandblend.Thenreheatandservewarm. Serve with the Cinnamon Rice Pudding (page 235) or Chestnut Soup(page 87). Or stir it into yogurt, spoon it over plain pound cake, or use it to

accompanysoftcheesessuchasBrieandCamembert.APPLENOTES:Themoreapplevarietiesyouuse,thebetter.Justbesuretochoosefirmapplesthatholdtheirshapewhencooked(seepage30).EQUIPMENT:3-to4-quartsaucepan


2 large firm-tart apples (about 1 pound; see Apple Notes), peeled, cored,andcutinto½-inchcubes

2 large firm-sweet apples (about 1 pound), peeled, cored, and cut into½-inchcubes

2tablespoonspackedlightbrownsugar2tablespoonsapplebrandy(Calvados)orapplejackZestandjuicefrom½lemon1cinnamonstick½teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonkoshersalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper¼driedvanillabean¼cup(33g)choppeddriedcranberries

1 • In a saucepan over medium heat, stir together the apples, brown sugar,brandy, lemon zest, lemon juice, cinnamon stick, ground cinnamon, salt, andpepper.Add½cupwaterandstir.Usingthetipofasmall,sharpknife,slitthevanilla bean open, then use the blade to gently scrape the seeds out.Add theseedsandbeanpodtothesaucepan.

2 • Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the mixture to a low boil.Reduce theheat toagentlesimmerandcook,uncovered, for10minutes.Addthe cranberries and cook for an additional 5minutes until the apples are soft.Removevanillapodandservewarm.

AppleClafoutis

Aseasytomakeasapancake,thisclassicFrenchdessertfromtheLimousinregioninvolvesmakinganegg-richbatterandpouringitoverfreshfruit(typicallycherries).Asthebatterbakes,itpuffsandturnsgoldenbrown, and cooks into a soft layer whose texture falls somewhere betweencustardandcake.APPLENOTES:Afirm-tartapple(seepage30)assertsitselfnicelyinthecustardybatterof thisdessert.Anyvariety isgood,but tartappleswith lemonyflavors,suchasGrannySmith,PinkPearl, andRhode IslandGreeningareparticularlynice.EQUIPMENT: 2-quart bakingor gratin dish (a standard8- by8-inchbakingdishworks,too)


FORTHEAPPLES

1largefirm-tartapple(about8ounces;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andslicedintothinrings

Juiceandzestof½lemon1tablespoon,plus¼cup(51g)granulatedsugar,divided

FORTHECAKE

3eggs1cup(240ml)wholeor2%milk⅔cup(95g)all-purposeflour¼cup(51g)granulatedsugar1½teaspoonsvanillaextract¼teaspoontablesaltConfectioners’sugarforsprinkling

1•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Generouslygrease a baking dish. Prepare the apples: Toss the apple ringswith the lemonjuice,lemonzest,and1tablespoonsugarandletsitforatleast15minutesandupto3hours,thenarrangetheslicesinthebottomofthedishandsetaside.

2 •Make thecake: Inablender,whirl theeggs,milk, flour,¼cupgranulatedsugar,vanilla,andsaltuntilthemixturelookssmoothandwellcombined,about15seconds.Pourthebatterovertheapples.

3 •Bake until puffed, golden brown, and set in the center, 40 to 50minutes.Sprinklewithconfectioners’sugarandservewarm.

AppleBrownies

Thisrecipe,afavoriteamongmymom’scircleoffriends,getsitsnamefromthefactthatthecakeisverymoist,bakedinabrowniepan,andmadetobecutintobars.Butthetextureismuchlighterthanthatofrealbrownies,andtheflavorisallfruitandcinnamon.Thisissuchaneasyrecipetomake:agreatstandbyforthosedayswhenyouwantasweettreatwithoutalotoffuss,orwhenyourememberat9p.m. thatyouvolunteeredtomakedessertfortomorrow’sbakesale.APPLE NOTES: I’m not kidding when I say that this recipe is easy. It’s alsoextremely adaptable. Any firm-sweet apple variety (see page 30) will workbeautifully.EQUIPMENT:11-by7-inchbakingdish

MAKES:12bars•ACTIVETIME:15minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,5minutes

1cup(145g)all-purposeflour1teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoontablesalt¼teaspoonbakingsoda8tablespoons(1stick;113g)saltedbutter,meltedandcooled,plusmoreforgreasingpan

1cup(210g)granulatedsugar1largeegg½cup(60g)choppedwalnuts2 large firm-sweet apples (about 1 pound total; see Apple Notes), peeled,

cored,andcutinto½-inchcubes

1•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Generouslygreasethebakingdishwithbutterandsetaside.

2•Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,cinnamon,bakingpowder,salt,and baking soda. Set aside. In the bowl of a standingmixer at high speed orusingahand-heldmixer,beattogetherthebutter,sugar,andegguntilpale,about2minutes.Addthewalnutsandapplesandstirbyhanduntilevenlycombined.Addtheflourmixtureandstiruntilcombined,another30seconds.

3 • Spread the batter into the prepared pan and bake until golden brown andlightly firm to the touch,40 to50minutes.Letcoolona rack for30minutes,thencutinto12barsandtransfertoaservingplatter.

SimpleAppleNutCake

MyfriendJessicaBattilana,aVermontnative,passedontherecipeforthissingle-layercake,whichwasgiventoherbyafamilyfriendnamedMrs.Stimets.It’satruedump-and-bakemethod,aboutaseasyascooking fromamix (aside from thechoppingofapplesandwalnuts). It’salsowonderfullytenderandmoist,andjustdenseenoughtobringtomindaGermanappletorte.Servewithadollopofwhippedcreamorcrèmefraîche.APPLE NOTES: I’ve made this cake with many different firm-sweet apples (seepage30),andIhaven’tfoundanyvarietythatIlikemorethananother.Allyouneedisanot-too-tartapplethatwon’tdissolvewhenit’scooked.EQUIPMENT:8-inchroundorsquarepan


Butterforgreasingpan3largefirm-sweetapples(about1½poundstotal;seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inchcubes

1cup(210g)granulatedsugar1cup(145g)all-purposeflour

1teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoonbakingsoda1largeegg,lightlybeaten⅓cup(80ml)vegetableoil,suchascanolaorcorn½cup(60g)roughlychoppedwalnuts

1•Preheattheovento375°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Generouslygreasethepan;setaside.

2•Inamediumbowl,stir theappleswith thesugarandletsituntil thesugardissolves, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together theflour,cinnamon,salt,andbakingsoda.Addtheappleswiththeirjuicesandstir,thenaddtheeggandoilandstiruntilcombined.Addthenuts(atthispoint,themixturewillnotlookpromising—asifthere’snotenoughbattertocoattheapplecubes.Don’tworry—therecipereallydoeswork).

3 •Pour thebatter into thepreparedpanandbakeuntilnicelybrownedandatester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30minutes. Let cool on arackfor20minutes.

AppleTeaCakewithLemonGlaze

AppleTeaCakewithLemonGlaze

My favorite school roommate used to get regular carepackagesfromhomecontainingarichlemonpoundcakethatwasdrizzledwithtartglaze.Itwasincredible(shewasgoodatsharing).Twentyyearslater,that cake inspired this variation, in which a buttermilk pound cake is layeredwith very thin slices of apple and toppedwith tangy lemon glaze.When youslicethecake,youseetheprettylayers—alovelypresentation.

APPLENOTES: Firm-sweet apples (see page30)with pronounced lemon flavorsareparticularlygoodhere.TryaGingerGoldorGravensteinifyoucanfindone.Otherwise,anicePinkLadyorJazzwouldbegreat,too.EQUIPMENT:6-cup(8½-by4½-inch)breadloafpan;mandoline

MAKES:1cake;8servings•ACTIVETIME:45minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,15minutes

FORTHECAKE

8 tablespoons (1 stick; 113 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plusmoreforgreasingpan

1cup(205g)granulatedsugar1½(215g)cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingpan1teaspoontablesalt½teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonbakingsoda2largeeggsplus1eggyolk,atroomtemperature½cup(80ml)low-fatbuttermilk1 small (or ½ large) firm-sweet apple (about 4 ounces; see Apple Notes),unpeeled, cored, cut in half lengthwise, and very thinly sliced (about3mm),preferablyonamandoline

½teaspoongroundcinnamon

FORTHEGLAZE

2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice1cupconfectioners’sugar

AppleTeaCakewithLemonGlaze(page240),readytobeserved.Thinlyslicedapplesformalayeratthetopandinthecenterofatenderlemon-scentedpoundcake.

1•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Butterandflouraloafpan.Setaside.

2•Combine thebutterandsugar inastandingmixer,or, ifusingahand-heldmixer, in a large bowl. Using awhisk attachment, cream on high speed untilpale,veryfluffy,andalmostmousselike.Thiswilltakebetween6and8minutes.Bepatient,andbesuretoscrapedownthesidesofthebowlperiodicallyasyougo.Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,salt,bakingpowder,

andbakingsoda.Setaside.

3•Whenthebutterandsugararefullywhipped,addtheeggsandeggyolk,oneatatime,beatingwellaftereach.Withthemixeronlowspeed,addathirdoftheflourmixtureandmixuntiljustincorporated.Addhalfthebuttermilkandbrieflymix. Repeat with another third of the flour mixture, then the remainingbuttermilk, then the last of the flour mixture. Mix just until smooth—do notovermix.

4 •Pour a thirdof thebatter into thepreparedbreadpanand smoothwith anoffset spatula. Top the batter with half the apples, overlapping the slices.Sprinkle theappleswithhalf thecinnamon.Repeatwithanadditional thirdofthebatterand theremainingapples.Topwith theremainingbatterandsmoothwithaspatula.Bakeuntilthecakeisgoldenbrownandacaketesterortoothpickinsertedintothecentercomesoutclean,45to55minutes.Meanwhile,preparetheglaze: Inamediumbowl,stir the lemon juice into theconfectioners’sugaruntilsmooth.

5•Removethecakefromtheovenandletsitfor5minutesinthepan.Whilethecakeisstillwarm,pokethetopalloverwithatoothpickinsertedalltheway.Pourhalftheglazeonthecakeandspreadevenlywithaspatula.Letsitforanadditional10minutestosoakuptheglaze,thenremovefromthepanandcoolonawirerackfor30moreminutes.

6 •When the cake is completely cool, drizzle generouslywith the remainingglaze,lettingitrundownthesides.Lettheglazedryforabout30minutes,thenserve.

CrêpesFilledwithCaramelizedApplesandServedwithMapleCrèmeFraîche

CrêpesFilledwithCaramelizedApplesandServedwithMapleCrèmeFraîche

Crêpebatterisabusycook’sbestfriend.Iliketomakeabatch (I use Julia Child’s recipe) every few weeks and keep it in therefrigerator.Dependingonourmood,thatbattercanbethebasisofdinner(filledwith savory treats like cheese, sausage, and vegetables), breakfast, or dessert,which is how I use it in this dish. The delicate pancakes are filled with

caramelized apples and a sprinkling of brown sugar, then toppedwithmaple-sweetenedcream.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanpreparethebatteruptotwodaysaheadofcooking.EQUIPMENT:Blender;6-to7-inchskilletorcrêpepan

MAKES:12crêpes;about6servings•ACTIVETIME:35minutes•TOTALTIME:35minutes,plusatleast30minuteschillingtime

FORTHECRÊPES

1cup(240ml)coldwater1cup(240ml)coldmilk(whole,2%,or1%)4largeeggs½teaspoonsalt2cups(280g)all-purposeflour4tablespoons(½stick;57g)saltedbutter,meltedandcooled2to3tablespoonsvegetableoilforcooking

FORTHEMAPLECRÈMEFRAÎCHE

6ounces(¾cup,or170g)crèmefraîche(I likeVermontButter&CheeseCreamerybrand)

3tablespoonsmaplesyrup

FORTHEFILLING

3cupsCaramelizedApples(page247)2tablespoonsbrownsugar,divided

1•Putallthecrêpebatteringredients(water,milk,eggs,salt,flour,andbutter)inyourblenderjar.Coverandblendathighspeedfor1minute,stoppingseveraltimestoscrapedownthesidesandbottomofthejartoloosenanybitsofflourthatmayhave stuck to theglass.Coverand refrigerate for at least30minutesandupto2days.

2•Meanwhile,inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthecrèmefraîcheandmaplesyrup.Coverandrefrigerateuntilreadytouse.

3•Preheattheovento200°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Putaskillet

orcrêpepanovermedium-highheatandbrushwithathinlayerofoil.Removethepanfromtheheatandholditinonehandwhileusingtheothertoscoopout¼cupofbatterandpouritintothepan.Quicklytiltthepaninalldirectionstoget thebatter tospreadout inaverythin6-inch-widecircle.Returnthepantotheheatjustuntilthecrêpeisgoldenbrownonthebottom,aboutaminute.Useaspatula to loosenthecrêpeanduseyourhands togentlyflip itover.Cookjustuntilthecrêpeisnolongerrawonthatside,about30seconds.Slideitoutontoalargeplateandcoverwithfoil.Putitintheoventokeepwarmasyoucooktherestofthecrêpesusingthesamemethod.

4 • To assemble the crêpes, fill each with ¼ cup Caramelized Apples and asprinklingofbrownsugar.Foldthesidesupoverthefilling,turnthecrêpeseamside down, transfer to a serving plate, and topwith a dollop ofMapleCrèmeFraîche.

CaramelizedApples

Thisdishservesasafillingfortheapplecrêpesonpage245,butitalsomakesawonderfulsidedishforbreakfastandbrunch.Pairitwithsausages,bacon,andpancakes,orwithhamandbiscuits.APPLENOTES:Aslongastheapplesaresweetandholdtheirshapewhencooked,they’llworkbeautifully,soanyfirm-sweetvariety(seepage30)isgood.MAKE-AHEAD TIP: The apples will keep, covered, for several days in therefrigerator.EQUIPMENT:12-to14-inchskilletorsautépan

MAKES:About3cups•ACTIVETIME:30minutes•TOTALTIME:30minutes

3tablespoons(42g)saltedbutter2½pounds(about5,or1.13kg)firm-sweetapples(seeAppleNotes),peeled,cored,andcutinto½-inchcubes

¼teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoongroundnutmeg¼teaspoongroundginger½cup(120ml)freshapplecider,divided

½cupmaplesyrup2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar

Melt the butter in a skillet overmedium-highheat.Add the apples and spicesandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheapplesaresoftenedandlightlybrownedinspots,8to10minutes.Stirintheappleciderandcook,stirringoften,untilthecider reduces to a glaze, about 3 minutes. Add half the maple syrup and thesugar and cook, stirring often, until the sauce is thickened and glossy and theapples are tender, 4 to6minutes.Finishwith the remainingmaple syrup, stir,andserve.

KentuckyAppleStackCake—ModernVersion

The inspiration for this cake comes from Appalachia,where stack cakes were traditionally made by layering thin, biscuitylayerswithapplebutter,whichservedas the“icing.”Left to sitovernight, thebiscuitswouldsoftenastheyabsorbedmoisturefromtheapplebutter,meldingallintoalusciousspecial-occasiondessert.Youcanfindarecipeforthatcakeonpage251.Thisversionfeatureslayersofspicecakestackedwithachunkysaucemadefromdriedapplescookedincider.It’sdelicious,unexpected,andfastertomake,nottomentionstriking.APPLENOTES:Whenit’stimetoshopforthedriedapplerings,dogooutofyourway to find the unsulfured type sold at Whole Foods and other health foodstores.Theivory-colored,mushier“dried”appleringsyou’llfindatmostregularsupermarkets tend to puff up during cooking into something nearlyunrecognizableasanapple,bothinflavorandappearance.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanmakethefillinguptothreedaysinadvance,butyoumayneedtoaddafewtablespoonsofwatertothinitoutbeforeusing.EQUIPMENT:Two9-inchcakepans;offsetspatula


FORTHECAKE

3cups(435g)all-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingpans1½teaspoonsbakingpowder

½teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoongroundginger1teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoontablesalt16tablespoons(2sticks;227g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusmoreforgreasingpans

1½cups(345g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar2largeeggs,atroomtemperature1¼cups(295ml)buttermilk,atroomtemperature

FORTHEFILLING

1pound(455g)driedapplerings,preferablyunsulfured(seeAppleNotes)5cups(1.2L)freshappleciderConfectioners’sugarforgarnish

1•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Butterandflourthecakepans;setaside.

2 •Make the cake: In amediumbowl, sift together the flour, bakingpowder,baking soda, ginger, cinnamon, and salt. In a large bowl, using a hand-heldmixer or a standingmixerwith awhisk attachment, beat the butter and sugartogether,stoppingoccasionallytoscrapedownthesidesofthebowl,untilverylight and fluffyandalmostmousselike;6 to8minutes.Add theeggsoneat atime, beatingwell after each.Add a third of the flourmixture and stir just tocombine. Add half the buttermilk and stir to combine. Repeat, alternatinganotherthirdoftheflourmixturewithhalfthebuttermilkandfinishingwiththeremainingthirdoftheflourmixture.Dividethebatterbetweenthepreparedpansandbakeuntilacaketestercomesoutclean,30to35minutes.Setthepansonawire rack to cool for 15minutes, then turn the cakes out onto the rack (keepthemtopsideup)tocoolcompletely.

3 •Meanwhile,make the filling:Combine the dried apple rings, cider, and 2cupswater ina largesaucepanoverhighheat.Bring toaboil, thenreduce theheat tomedium-low,maintaining a gentle simmer. Cook, occasionally stirringandmashing theappleswithawoodenspoon,until they’reverysoftandhave

thetextureofchunkyapplesauce,30to40minutes.Letcool.

4•Whenthecakesarecompletelycool,useasharpserratedknifetocarefullyhalvethemcrosswisesothatyounowhavefourlayers.Thebesttechniqueistoturn the cake as you cut, rather than sawing your way through from onedirection.

5 • Assemble the cake: Choose your prettiest, smoothest “top” layer and setaside.Chooseyourbottomlayerandtopitwithathirdofthefilling.Smoothoutwithanoffsetspatula,thentopwithanothercakelayerandmorefilling.Repeatoncemore, then top thecakewith the layeryousetaside. Justbeforeserving,sprinklethewholeproductionwithconfectioners’sugar.Thecakewillkeepforadayorsoafterbaking,butinthiscase,freshisbest.

TraditionalKentuckyAppleStackCakelayersapplebutterbetweentenderroundsofbiscuit-likecake.

KentuckyAppleStackCake—TraditionalVersion

I can’t say enough about the deliciousness and simplebeauty of this historic cake, which has its roots in nineteenth-centuryAppalachia.Inthosedays,itservedasasortofpotluckweddingcake:Membersof the community would contribute layers, which were held together with aspreadofmasheddriedapples,applesauce,orapplebutter.

Thedishisextremelyeasytomake,sincethedoughresemblesthatofgiant

sugar cookies, baked in pans and stacked. Really, the only challenge lies inbaking all six layers and then finding thepatience towait at least twenty-fourhours—during which time the stacks absorb the apple butter and soften intosomethingmorerecognizablycakelike—beforediggingin.APPLENOTES:Youcanusestore-boughtorhomemadeapplebutter in thiscake,though naturally I prefer the Overnight Apple Butter on page 275. For store-bought,IrecommendEdenbrand,whichissoldinmostWholeFoodsstores.MAKE-AHEADTIP:Youcanprepthecakethroughstep3uptoadaybeforebaking.NOTE:Thiscakehassixlayers,eachbakedindividually.Ifyouhavealargeovenandalargepancollection,youcanbakethemallatonce.Otherwise,I’vewrittentherecipebasedontheassumptionthatyou’llbeusingthreepansandbakingthelayersintwophases(youcanalsousetwopansandbakeinthreephases).EQUIPMENT:Atleast2standard9-inchcakepans,preferably3(seeNote);offsetspatula

MAKES:12servings•ACTIVETIME:50minutes•TOTALTIME:2hours,plusatleast24hoursrestingtime

1cup(210g)granulatedsugar¾cup(175g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar16tablespoons(2sticks;227g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusmoreforgreasingpan

5½cups(780g)all-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingpan2teaspoonsbakingpowder1½teaspoonsbakingsoda1teaspoontablesalt1teaspoongroundcinnamon⅔cup(160ml)buttermilk2extra-largeeggs1tablespoonvanillaextract2½cups(600ml)applebutter(seeAppleNotes)Confectioners’sugarforgarnish

1•Preheattheovento400°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Butterandflourthecakepans(seeNote).Inthebowlofastandingmixer(orusingahand-

heldmixer),creamthesugar,brownsugar,andbuttertogetheratmediumspeeduntil quite fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour,baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. Set aside. In a small bowl,whisktogetherthebuttermilk,eggs,andvanilla.

2•Addathirdoftheflourmixturetothebutter-sugarmixtureandmixjusttocombineatmedium-lowspeed.Addhalfofthebuttermilkmixtureandmixjusttocombine.Repeat,addinganotherthirdoftheflourmixture,thentheremainingbuttermilkmixture,thentheremainingflourmixture.

3•Turnthedoughoutontoalightlyflouredsurface,kneadfourtimestobringitalltogether,thenrollintoanevencylinderabout18incheslong.Cutthecylinderintosixequalparts(each3incheslong),thenpresseachpartintoadisk,wrapinplasticwrap,andrefrigerateforatleast30minutesanduptoaday.

4•Ona lightly flouredsurface, rolloutonediskofdough toa10-inchcircle(use a light sprinklingof flour if it begins to stick).Usinga cakepanasyourguide, trim thedough intoaperfect9-inchcircle, then lay it inapan tobake.Repeatwithtwomorepiecesofdough.Bakeallthree,rotatingthepanshalfwaythrough,untilthelayersarelightlygoldenandjustbeginningtopullawayfromthesides,10 to12minutes.Remove from theovenandcool thepansonwireracksfor10minutes.Removethelayersandsetaside.Whenthepansarecool,butterandflourthemoncemoreandrepeattherolling,cutting,andbakingwiththeotherthreedoughrounds.

5 •Assemble thecake:Chooseyourprettiest, smoothest“top” layerandset itaside.Chooseyourbottomlayeranduseanoffsetspatulatospread½cupapplebutter over the top, all theway to the edges.Topwith another cake layer andanother½cuptopping.Repeatthreemoretimes,thentopwiththeprettiestlayer.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor24to48hours,thensprinklethetopwithconfectioners’sugar,cutintothinslices,andserve.

AppleGingerbreadUpside-DownCake

Here’s a recipe with some history: Gingerbread in one

formoranotherdatesallthewaybacktotheMiddleAges,andemergedinthefifteenthcenturyasaspicedcake.AppleandgingerbreadhavelongbeenafavoritecombinationinBritain.Meanwhile,upside-downcakesbecamepopularstandards in the United States in the 1920s and 1930s (though early versionswere typically made with pineapple). All three streams flow together in thistender,flavorfultreat.Servewithwhippedcream.APPLENOTES:Chooseanytartapplesthatholdtheirshapewhencooked(seepage30).EQUIPMENT:9-inchroundcakepan


FORTHECAKE

6tablespoons(85g)saltedbutter½cup(115g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar2largeeggs,atroomtemperature¼cup(60ml)molasses1½cups(220g)all-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoongroundginger1teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoontablesalt½cup(120ml)buttermilk,atroomtemperature

FORTHETOPPING

⅓cup(70g)granulatedsugar1teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg2 large firm-tart apples, (about 1 pound total; see Apple Notes), peeled,cored,andslicedinto⅛-inch-thickrings

1•Preheattheovento350°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Generouslygrease a cake pan. First,make the cake:With a standing or hand-heldmixer,creamthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,5to7minutes.Addtheeggsoneatatime,mixingwellaftereach.Beatinthemolasses.

2•Inamediumbowl,sifttogethertheflour,bakingsoda,ginger,cinnamon,andsalt. Add one-third of the flour mixture to the butter-sugar mixture. Stir tocombine,thenstirinhalfofthebuttermilk.Repeat,addinganotherthirdoftheflourmixture, thentheremainingbuttermilk, then theremainingflourmixture.Donotovermix.

3 •Make the topping: In a smallbowl, stir together the sugar, cinnamon, andnutmeg. Toss the apple slices in half the sugar mixture, then arrange in theprepared pan, making overlapping concentric circles. Sprinkle the remainingsugarmixture over the apples. Pour the cake batter over the apples and bakeuntilatestercomesoutclean,35to40minutes.Letthecakecoolonarackfor10minutes,thenrunaknifebetweenthecakeandthepansidestoloosen.Layaservingplatefacedownoverthecakepan,thenfliptounmoldthecake.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

Applesauce-PistachioBundtCakewithCiderGlaze

This cake was a star player in my Aunt Madeline’srepertoire,thoughshedidn’tmake itwith theglaze. Iadded thatafterdecidingitneededjustalittlesomethingtojazzitup.Asadessert,thisisprettycozystuff,perfectforacasualdinnerorpotluck.APPLENOTES: Intheapplesaucehierarchy,homemadeisking.However, it’snotworth making a fresh batch of sauce for baking. Feel free to use any store-bought variety, as long as it has plenty of real fruit and isn’t loadedwith toomuchsweetener.EQUIPMENT:10-inchBundtpan


FORTHECAKE

2cups(290g)all-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingpan1teaspoonbakingpowder1teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoonbakingsoda

½teaspoontablesalt½teaspoongroundcloves10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks; 142g) saltedbutter, at room temperature,plusmoreforgreasingpan

1cup(210g)granulatedsugar1largeeggplus1largeeggyolk,atroomtemperature1½cups(360ml)applesauce(seeAppleNotes),atroomtemperature⅓cup(160g)roughlychoppedunsaltedpistachios

FORTHECIDERGLAZE

1cup(120g)confectioners’sugar2tablespoonsfreshappleciderPinchoftablesalt

1 • Preheat the oven to 350°F.Grease the panwith butter, then sprinklewithflour.Shakethepantodistributeevenly,thendumpoutanyexcess.Setaside.

2 • In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon,bakingsoda,salt,andcloves.Setaside.Inastandingmixer(orinalargebowlifusing a hand-held mixer), cream together the butter and sugar with a whiskattachmentfor3minutes,scrapingdownthebowlhalfwaythrough.Addtheeggandeggyolkandbeattocombine.

3•Setaracktothemiddleposition.Addonethirdoftheflourmixturetothebutter-sugarmixtureandbrieflystirtocombine.Addhalfoftheapplesauce,thenstir again. Repeat, adding another third of the flour mixture, the remainingapplesauce,thentheremainingflourmixture.Foldinpistachios.Pourthebatterintothepreparedpanandbakeuntilthemiddleofthecakeisfirmtothetouchandacaketestercomesoutclean,about1hour.

4 • Meanwhile, make the glaze: Stir together the sugar, cider, and salt untilsmooth.When the cake is donebaking, cool in thepanon awire rack for 15minutes, thencarefully turnthepanover toremovethecake.Coolcompletely,thendrizzletheglazeoverthecake.

LowfatGingerbreadApplesauceCake

Thiscakecontainsnodairyproductsandisrelativelylowinfat,buthasalltheflavoroftraditionalgingerbread.Thesecretisintheapplesauce,whichaddsflavorandmoistnesswithoutaddingmanycalories.EQUIPMENT:2-to3-quartsaucepan;8-by8-inchsquarebakingpan


Grease(butterorvegetableshortening)forthepan1cup(237ml)unsweetenedorlightlysweetenedapplesauce½cup(120ml)lightormediummolasses1½cups(215g)all-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingpan1teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoongroundginger1teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoongroundcloves½teaspoontablesalt2largeeggs⅔cupgranulatedsugar⅓cup(80ml)vegetableoil,suchascornorcanolaConfectioners’sugarfordusting

1•Preheattheovento325°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.Greasethebakingpanwiththebutterorshortening,thendustwithacoupletablespoonsofflour.Shakepanaroundtodistributeanevencoatingofflour,thendumpoutanyextra.Setaside.

2 • In a saucepan overmedium-high heat, bring the applesauce to a simmer.Removethepanfromtheheat,thenstirinthemolassesandthebakingsoda.Themixturewillfoamupandbubble.Letthismixturesitandcoolabit.

3•Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,bakingsoda,ginger,cinnamon, cloves, and salt. In a standingmixerwith thewhisk attachment (or

usingahand-heldmixer),beat together theeggsandsugaronhighspeeduntilthemixtureisthickandpaleyellow,about4minutes.Drizzleintheoilinathinstream,continuingtomixasyoudo.

4•Addaboutathirdoftheflourmixturetotheegg-sugar-oilmixtureandwhiskjusttoblend.Addhalftheapplesauce-molassesmixture.Mixagaintoblendandusea spatula toscrapedown thesidesofyourbowl,makingsure thebatter isevenly mixed. Add another third of the flour mixture and mix, then add theremainingapplesauce-molassesmixture.Mix, thenscrape thebowldownoncemore with a spatula. Finally, add the last of the flour mixture and mix untilsmooth.

5•Pourthisbatterintothepreparedpanandbakeuntilthecakeisfirminthecenteranda tester inserted into themiddlecomesoutclean,40 to45minutes.Set thecakeonarackandletcoolinthepanforabout10minutes, thenuseathinknifetoloosenthecakearoundtheedgesandcarefullyturnitoutontotherack.Letthecakecooltoroomtemperature(about30minutes),thendustwithconfectioners’sugarandserve.

SpicedAppleCupcakeswithCinnamonCreamCheeseFrosting

Ittookseveralattemptstocreateacupcakethatwasfullofappleflavorwithoutbeingmistakenforabreakfastmuffin.Amongtheexperiments: a liquid apple butter center, a scattering of finely diced apples.Finally,Iconsideredaddingboiledcider,whichis justveryconcentratedapplejuice.Itdidthetrick,addingrichflavortothebatterwhilealsoproducingaverytender, identifiably cakelike product. Spiced cream cheese frosting was theperfectfinish.Honestly,Ican’tthinkofanycakethatwouldn’tbeimprovedbycreamcheesefrosting.Andit’ssomucheasiertomakethanbuttercream.NOTE:Thisrecipehasalargeyield,24cakes.Ithinkthisisasensibleamountformostbirthdayparties—plentyofpeoplewilleattwocakeseach.However,youcancuttherecipeinhalffairlyeasily—mosteverythingdividesintotwo,exceptfortheeggsandtheboiledcider.Inthatcase,use2eggsplus1eggyolkand3½tablespoonsboiledcider.(YoucanorderboiledciderfromtheKingArthurFlour

catalogorfromWood’sCiderMillatwoodscidermill.com.)Thefrostingdividesneatlyinhalf.MAKE-AHEAD TIP: You can bake the cupcakes up to aweek in advance.Whencool, arrange them on a cookie sheet and put in the freezer. When frozen,transfer them to zip-top bags. You can make the frosting up to four days inadvance.Bringeverythingtoroomtemperaturebeforefrosting.EQUIPMENT:2standard(2½-inch)muffinpans;paperliners

MAKES:2dozencupcakes•ACTIVETIME:1hour•TOTALTIME:1hour,45minutes

16tablespoons(2sticks;227g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature2cups(420g)granulatedsugar3½cups(510g)all-purposeflour1tablespoonbakingpowder1teaspoontablesalt1½teaspoonsgroundcinnamon1teaspoongroundginger5largeeggs,atroomtemperature1teaspoonvanillaextract⅓cup(80ml)boiledcider(seeNote)1cup(240ml)wholeor2%milk,atroomtemperature

FORTHEFROSTING

2(8ounce)packages(455gtotal)creamcheese,atroomtemperature8tablespoons(1stick;113g)saltedbutter,atroomtemperature2cups(240g)confectioners’sugar2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon1teaspoonvanillaextract

1•Preheattheovento325°Fandsetaracktothemiddleposition.

2•Usingastandingmixerfittedwithawhiskattachmentorahand-heldmixer,combinethebutterandsugaratmedium-highspeeduntilpale,veryfluffy,andmousselike,7to10minutes(Iusuallyaverageabout8minutes).Stopeveryfewminutes to scrape down the sides of your bowl with a spatula—you want

everythingevenlymixed,withnoclumpsofbutter.

3 •While you’rewaiting for thebutter and sugar towhip, combine the flour,bakingpowder, salt, cinnamon, andginger in amediumbowl.Whisk togetherandsetaside.

4 •When the butter-sugar mixture is fully whipped, add 1 egg and continuemixingatmedium-highspeeduntilfullycombined.Repeatwiththeremaining4eggs.Addthevanilla.

5•Inasmallbowl,stirtheboiledciderintothemilk.Itmaylookabitcurdled—that’s fine. Add about a third of the flour mixture to the butter-egg-sugarmixtureandmixonlowspeedjustuntilcombined.Donotovermix.Addaboutahalfofthemilkmixtureandmixjustuntilcombined.Repeatwiththeflour,thenthemilk,thentheflour.

6•Usinga⅓cupmeasuringcuporlargespoon,filleachmuffincuptwo-thirdsof theway.Bakeuntil the tops of the cakes are firmbut still pale and a caketestercomesoutclean,25to30minutes.

7 • While the cupcakes are baking, make the frosting: Using your standingmixer fittedwithawhiskorpaddleattachmentorahand-heldmixer,combinethecreamcheese,butter,confectioners’sugar,cinnamon,andvanilla.Beatwell,scrapingdownthesidesonceortwice,untilevenlycombined.Setaside.

8•Whenthecakesaredone,removefromtheovenandletcoolinthepanonarackfor10minutesbeforeremoving,thenletcoolforatleast30minutesbeforefrosting.Frostgenerously.

SpicedAppleCupcakeswithCinnamonCreamCheeseFrosting(page259)

SaltedCaramelAppleswithCinnamonGrahamCrackerCrumbs

These apples, dipped in salted homemade caramel andthencrownedwith a dusting of crushed graham crackers, are just purefun.Feelfreetoplaywiththetoppings,substitutingcrushedalmondsorM&Msfor the graham crackers as desired. Crushed gingersnaps are another goodchoice.

APPLE NOTES: Maybe it’s a result of all the carnival food I’ve eaten over theyears, but I’m awfully fond of caramel apples made with the Granny Smith.Nevertheless,anyfirm-tartvariety(seepage30)willbedelicioushere.NOTE:Store-boughtapplesarecoatedwithfood-gradewaxtomakethemshiny,whichcanmakeitdifficultforthecarameltosticktothefruit.Youcanremovethe wax if you like by briefly dunking the apples in boiling water and thenwipingthemoffwithadishtowel.I’vefoundthatthisstepisunnecessarywhenIuseorganicapples,whichseemtohavelesswax.Evenbetter,buyyourapplesdirectlyfromafarm,inwhichcasethey’llbewaxfree.EQUIPMENT: 4- to 5-quart heavy-bottomed pot; instant-read thermometer;popsiclesticks;parchmentpaperorwaxpaper

MAKES:8servings•ACTIVETIME:1hour,5minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,5minutes

8 medium firm-tart apples (about 6 ounces each, or 3 pounds total; seeAppleNotes),unpeeled,stemsremovedandchilledinrefrigeratorforatleastanhourbeforeusing(seeNote)

2tablespoons(28g)saltedbutter1cup(235g)packedlightbrownsugar½cup(120ml)sweetenedcondensedmilk½cup(120ml)lightcornsyrup½cup(120ml)wholemilk¼cup(60ml)heavycream¼teaspoonseasaltortablesalt1½teaspoonsvanillaextract4wholecinnamongrahamcrackers,crushed

1 • Insert apopsicle stick into eachapple, then set aside.Line abaking sheetwithparchmentpaperorwaxpaper.Putthecrushedgrahamcrackersinabowlandkeepnearthestove.

2•Inalargepotovermediumheat,combinethebutter,sugar,condensedmilk,cornsyrup,milk,cream,andsalt.Cook,stirringgently,untilthemixturebeginsto bubble. Itwill foamup quite a bit as it cooks,which iswhy a large pot is

essential. Begin using your instant-read thermometer at this stage to track thecaramel’s temperature. You want to bring it up to between 238°F and 240°F,whichcantakeupto20minutes.Don’tbetemptedtoraisethetemperature—toohighandthemixturewillscald.Patienceisessential!Gentlystirandcheckthetemperatureeveryminuteorso.Thecaramelwillthickenandturnatoffeecolorasitreaches238°F.Whenthishappens,stirinthevanillaandremovefromtheheat.

3 • Working quickly, wipe the apples with a paper towel to remove anycondensation,thendip,oneatatime,intothecaramel,swirlingtocoatevenly.Turntheappleup,scrapeoffanyexcesscaramel,anddunktheappleingrahamcrackers about halfway, so the pieces stick to the caramel. Set the apple on abaking sheet, then repeat with the remaining apples. Refrigerate all until thecaramelisfirm.

Apple-GingersnapIceCream

Theonlydifficultthingaboutthisscrumptiousicecreamisplanningaheadtoallowforplentyofchillingtime(atleast4hours).Youreffortswillberewarded,though,withincrediblysmoothandcreamyicecreamjazzedupwithapplesandgingersnapcookies.APPLENOTES:Here’stheperfectrecipeforusingFujiorGalaapples.Theyhavejusttherightflavorandtendernessandareeasytofind.EQUIPMENT:3-to4-quartsaucepan;8-to10-inchskillet;icecreammaker

MAKES:About5cups•ACTIVETIME:30minutes•TOTALTIME:60minutes,plusatleast4hourschillingtime

1cup(237ml)2%orwholemilk2cups(474ml)lightcreamYolksof5largeeggs,atroomtemperature1cup(205g)granulatedsugar¼teaspoonkoshersalt1tablespoonvanillaextract

2 medium tender-sweet apples (about 12 ounces total; see Apple Notes),peeled,cored,andcutinto¼-inchcubes

1teaspoongroundcinnamon25 gingersnap cookies, roughly crushed,with some cookie dust and somelargerpieces

1•Inasaucepanovermedium-highheat,bringthemilkandcreamtoasimmer,thenremovefromtheheat.Meanwhile,inastandingmixerfittedwithawhiskattachmentorusingahand-heldmixer,beattheeggyolkswiththesugaronhighspeeduntilpaleandfluffy,about3minutes.Reducethespeedtolowandadd½cupofthehotcream-milkmixtureintotheeggmixture.Thiswillslowlybringupthetemperatureoftheeggssotheywon’tcurdlewhenyoumixthemwiththerestofthehotcream.

2 •Pour theeggmixtureback into the saucepanwith thecream-milkmixtureand stir to combine. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until themixturereaches175°Fonaninstant-readthermometer(thisisthepointatwhichitwillthickennoticably),about10minutes.Removefromtheheat,addthesaltand vanilla extract, and pour through a strainer into a bowl. Cover andrefrigerateforatleast4hoursanduptoovernight.

3•Meanwhile,preparetheapples:Inaskillet,stirtheappleswith3tablespoonswaterandthecinnamonovermediumheat.Cookuntiltheapplesaretenderandtranslucent,andthewaterhasevaporated,8to10minutes.Useaforktomashthe apples to the consistency of chunky applesauce. Transfer to a bowl andrefrigerate,covered,untilyou’rereadytofreezetheicecream.

4•Oncechilled,youricecreambaseshouldregisterbetween35°Fand40°Fonan instant-read thermometer. If it doesn’t, you can set thebowlover some iceand stir to quickly cool it. Stir the apples and gingersnaps into the ice creambase. Pour themixture into an ice-creammaker, leaving an inch at the top toallow for expansion, and prepare according to themanufacturer’s instructions.Eatimmediatelyorpourintoanairtightplasticcontainerandfreezeforupto1week.

GreenAppleSauvignonBlancSorbet

If you’ve ever attended a Sauvignon Blanc tasting,you’ve probably heard some reference to the wine’s green apple“notes.” I even remember one fellow tasterwho described aNapa SauvignonBlancastastinglike“atartgreenappleslicedwithacoldsteelknife.”Specific!And,inthatcase,oddlyfitting.Themetaphorstayedwithmeandinspiredthissorbet,whichisn’ttheleastbitmetallic,butismostcertainlycold.APPLENOTES: Only green apples reallywork here, so don’t cheat. Fortunately,GrannySmithiseasytofind.EQUIPMENT:Icecreammaker

MAKES:3½cups•ACTIVETIME:25minutes•TOTALTIME:1hour,10minutes

1cup(210g)granulatedsugar1¼pounds(566g;about2½large)greenapples,suchasGrannySmithorRhodeIslandGreening(seeAppleNotes),unpeeled,coredandcutinto1-inchchunks

¾cup(180ml)chilledSauvignonBlancwine¼teaspoonkoshersalt

1•Inamediumsaucepanovermedium-highheat,bring1cupwater,thesugar,andapplestoalowboil,thenreducetheheattolow,partiallycoverthepan,andgentlysimmeruntiltheapplesareverytender,10to15minutes.Removefromtheheatandstirinthewineandsalt.Processthemixturethroughasieveorfoodmilltoremovetheskins.

2 • Pour the puree into a shallow baking dish and put in the freezer for 20minutestocool.Freezeintheicecreammakeraccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.For a firmer texture, chill in the freezer for an additional 8hoursbeforeserving.

CHAPTERTEN

CONDIMENTSANDCOCKTAILS

GingerGold

ClassicApplesauce

Applesauce is so simple that a recipe seems a littleredundant.Butthereisarightwaytomakeit.First,leavethepeelson.Theyaddflavor,vitamins,andalittlecolor—you’llremovethemlaterwhenyourunthesaucethroughthefoodmill.Second,dousethefoodmill—itcreatesthebestvelvetytexture.Third,theamountofsugaryouadddependsontheapplesyouchoose,sostartwithatablespoonandkeepaddingandtastinguntilyougetitright.(Seepage116foraphotographofthefinishedapplesauce.)APPLENOTES: Themore apple varieties you use, the better your saucewill be.Ideally, youwant to taste the full range of apple flavor notes, from lemon toraspberrytospice.Foralistoftender-sweetandtender-tartapples,seepage30.NOTE: Adding 3 tablespoons of water to the pot creates just enough steam tobreakdowntheapplesquickly.Ifyoulikealoosersauce,addanothertablespoonortwoofwaterafteryouputtheapplesthroughthefoodmill.EQUIPMENT:3-to4-quartDutchovenorotherheavy-bottomedpot;foodmill


3-pounds (1.4 kg; about 6 large) tender-sweet and tender-tart apples (seeAppleNotes)

¼cup(60ml)water1tablespoongranulatedsugar,plusmoretotaste

1•Coretheapples(donotpeel),thencutintolargechunks(about2inches).Puttheapplesandwaterinapotovermedium-highheatandcover.Whenthewaterbegins producing vigorous steam, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook,stirringoccasionally,until theapplesbecomequite tenderandcanbe smashedwiththebackofawoodenspoon,15to20minutes.

2 • Process the apples through a foodmill.Add sugar, taste, and add anothertablespoonortwoasdesired.Thinwithadditionalwater,ifneeded.Servecoldoratroomtemperature.

Orange-ScentedSpicedApplesauce

This variation on regular applesauce has the same richappleflavorsandvelvetytexture,butwiththeaddedpunchoforangeandspice.APPLENOTES:Aswith the regular sauce, themore apple varieties you use, thebetterthesaucewilltaste.(Foralistoftenderapplevarieties,seepage30.)EQUIPMENT:3-to4-quartDutchovenorotherheavy-bottomedpot;foodmill


3-pounds (1.4 kg; 3 large) tender-sweet and tender-tart apples (seeAppleNotes)

1teaspoonfreshlygratedorangezest1teaspoongroundcinnamon¼teaspoongroundcloves1tablespoonfirmlypackedlightbrownsugar,plusmoretotaste

½cup(120ml)freshlysqueezedorangejuice

1•Coreapples(donotpeel),thencutintolargechunks(about2inches).Puttheapples,orangezest,cinnamon,cloves,and3tablespoonswaterintoalargepotovermedium-highheatandcover.Whentheliquidbeginstosimmer,reducetheheat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples becomequite tender and can be smashedwith the back of awooden spoon, 15 to 20minutes.

2•Process theapples throughthefoodmill.Addthebrownsugarandorangejuice,taste,andaddanothertablespoonortwooforangejuiceasdesired.

QuickBread-and-ButterApplePickles

QuickBread-and-ButterApplePickles

Okay,thisrelishisactuallyabitdifferentfromthebread-and-butterpicklesyoumayknowfromchildhood.It’salsomuchsimpler.Itdoeshaveasimilarflavorprofile,though:sweetandbright,withwarmspices.

It’s a quick pickle in every sense—just a thirty-minute bath in the vinegarbeforeit’sreadytoserve,andIsimplykeepit intherefrigeratorforuptotwoweeks,ratherthancanningit.Itneverlastslongenoughtoputup,anyway.Serveasa sidesalad,oronsandwichesandburgers,orchopupandmix intopotatosalad. Pairs well with the Apple andMustard Grilled Cheese Sandwiches onpage107.APPLE NOTES: Red-skinned apples look prettiest here, so consult the appleportraitsonpages31–60tofindsomeredfirm-sweetapplevarieties.IoftenuseJazz,Baldwin,andMelrosehere.NOTE: To make this pickle truly pretty (and easy), the mandoline and biscuitcutterareessential.Themandolinebecauseyouwantpaper-thinslices,andthebiscuitcuttersoyoucancreateappleslicesthatarethesamesizeasthecukes.Youdon’tneedanythingfancy,though.Seemyrecommendationsforaffordabletoolsonpages71–72.EQUIPMENT:Mandoline;1½-inchbiscuitcutter(seeNote)


1largeseedless(English)cucumber(about14ouncesor400g),unpeeled1tablespoonkoshersalt2largefirm-sweetapples(about1poundtotal;seeAppleNotes),unpeeledandcutinhalflengthwise

2mediumshallots1cup(240ml)ricevinegar½cup(120ml)water½cup(120ml)honey1tablespoongranulatedsugar1cinnamonstick

1sprigfreshtarragon,cutinto4pieces

1 • First, prep your cucumbers: Cut off the ends and discard, then slice on amandoline. Put in a colander and toss with the salt. Let sit for at least 20minutes.

2•Meanwhile,preptheapples:Trimtheseedsandcorefromeachapplehalf,then set, cut sidedown,ona cuttingboard.Useabiscuit cutter topushdowninto theflesh,extracting two littlecylinders fromeachapplehalf.Because theapplesareround,thecylinderswon’tbeperfectlylevel.That’sfine.Thinlysliceeachcylinderonthemandoline(again,don’tworryifsomeslicesarenotperfectcircles).Slicetheshallotsonthemandolineaswell,thenputinamediumbowlwiththeapples.

3•Inasmallbowl,whisktogetherthevinegar,water,honey,andsugaruntilthesugardissolves.Addthecinnamonstickandtarragon,andpourthemixtureovertheapplesandshallots.

4 •Rinse the cucumberswell and lightly blot dry (still in the colander)withpapertowels.Addthecucumberslicestothebowlwiththeapplesandstirwell.Letsitforatleast30minutesbeforeserving.Refrigerateforuptotwoweeks.

Apple,Date,andAlmondCharoset

Charosetisaritualfood,asweetrelishservedduringthePassoversedertorepresentthemortarusedbyenslavedIsraelitelaborersin Egypt. Jews of Eastern European descent typically base their charoset onapples,whilemanyMediterranean Jews use dates or dried fruits. I decided tocombinethetwotraditions,addingapples,dates,andtoastedalmondstothemix,alongwith cinnamon, sweet redwine, and lemon.Only after I developed therecipe did I learn of a traditional Turkish charoset with a very similar list ofingredients.APPLENOTES:IespeciallylikenewervarietieslikeJazzandPiñataherebecausethey have a littlemore acidity to balance the sweetness. Formore firm-sweet

varieties,seepage30.EQUPMENT:8-to12-inchheavy-bottomedskillet


½cup(58g)sliveredalmonds3 large firm-sweet apples (about 1½ pounds total; see Apple Notes),unpeeledandcored

7ounces(200g)dates,preferablyMedjool6tablespoons(90ml)sweetredwine,suchasManischewitzbrand3tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice¾teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoonfreshlygratedlemonzest

1 • In a skillet overmedium-low heat, toast the almonds, stirring often, untilgoldenbrown,about10minutes.Chopwell,thensetasideuntilreadytoserve.Meanwhile, ina foodprocessororchoppingbowl,veryfinelychop theapplesand dates—to about the size of corn kernels. Stir in the wine, lemon juice,cinnamon,andlemonzestandletsitfor30minutes,orcoverandrefrigerateforupto2days.

2•Justbeforeserving,addthealmonds.Stirandserveimmediately.

Apple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa

I love the green, slightly vegetal quality of the GrannySmith apple, and how its flavors echo other green foods, such ascucumbers,bellpeppers,andevenherbssuchasmintandbasil.Onahotspringafternoon, itoccurred tome that if theyechoeachother, they’dprobably tastegoodtogetherinacoolingsalsa.Jalapeñosinjectjusttherightdoseofheat,andhoney ties it all together. This recipe always gets the same reaction: first, ascratchingofthehead,thenasmile.APPLENOTES: This is one timewhere only one variety of applewill do, so nosubstitutionsplease.

NOTE:Withplentyofacidtopreventtheapplesfrombrowning,thissalsakeepsforuptofivedaysintherefrigerator.


¼cup(60ml)limejuice2tablespoonshoney½teaspoonkoshersalt2 large Granny Smith apples (about 1 pound total; see Apple Notes),unpeeledanddiced

1¼cups (182g)dicedEnglish (seedless) cucumber (abouthalf a standardcucumber)

½cup(75g)finelydicedredbellpepper1tablespoonmincedjalapeño1tablespoonthinlyslicedmintleaves

Inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthelimejuice,honey,andsalt.Inamediumbowl,toss together the apples, cucumber, bell pepper, jalapeño, and mint. Pour thedressingovertheapplemixtureandtoss.Servecold.

OvernightAppleButter

I’mnot one to spendmy late summerdays at the stovecanningpickles andpreserves for hourson end.Maybe I shouldbe, butI’mnot.Thisapplebutter,however,letsmesatisfythatprimalurgetoputupandstoreawaywithoutdemandingthatIsacrificethenicestdaysoftheyear.Usingaslowcooker,IcanmakethepreserveswhileIsleep.Andtheresult—bright,withjustahintofcomplexspice—isaterrificreward.NOTE: For more information on home preservation safety, visit the NationalCenterforHomeFoodPreservationatwww.uga.edu/nchfp.EQUIPMENT: 5- to 7-quart slow cooker; twelve 8-ounce canning jars, lids, andbands;tongs;largestockpotorcanner

MAKES:Twelve8-ouncejars•ACTIVETIME:1hour;•TOTALTIME:9to11hours

5 pounds (2.25 kg; about 10 large) apples, any type (preferably amix oftypes),peeled,cored,andcutintomediumchunks

1¾cups(365g)granulatedsugar1wholestaranisepod½teaspoongroundcinnamon½teaspoonkoshersalt¼teaspoonfreshlygroundnutmeg¼teaspoongroundginger2cups(480ml)freshapplecider¼cup(60ml)freshlemonjuice

1•Turntheslowcookeronhighandaddalltheingredients.Coverandcookfor1½ hours, stirring occasionally. The mixture should be bubbling vigorously.Reducetheheat to low,cookforanotherhour, thenremovethestaranisepod.Setthelidslightlyajar,thencookforanadditional7to9hours,untiltheapplebutterisdarkbrownandthick.Stirwell,and,ifneeded,passthroughafoodmillorstrainertoremoveanylumps.

2•Sterilizethecanningjarsbyboilinginthelargestockpotfor10minutes(donotboilthelidsorbands).Turnofftheheatandleavethejarsinthewateruntilready touse.Wash the lidsandbands inhot,soapywater, thendrywithcleanpapertowels.Usetongstoremovethejarsfromthewateranddividetheapplebutteramongthem,leaving¼inchofheadspaceatthetopofeachjar(seeNote).Usetongstoputthelidsontopofthejars,thenuseyourhandstoscrewonthebands.Bringthewaterinalargestockpotorcannerbacktoaboilandsubmergethefilledjarsfor10minutestoseal.Letcooltoroomtemperature.

MulledAppleCider

There’sagoodreasonwhyrealestateagentslovetobrewupapotofmulledciderattheiropenhouses.Itfillsthehousewiththemostappealingscentandtasteslikehomeandautumnandeverythingcozyandwarm.If you’re looking to feel evenwarmer, add an ounce or two of rum or applebrandytoeachserving.(Seepage154foraphotographofMulledAppleCider.)

NOTE:Ifyou’reservingacrowd,simplydoubletherecipe.EQUIPMENT:4-to5-quartDutchovenorstockpot

MAKES:8cups•TOTALTIME:30minutes

8cups(½gallonor1.9L)freshapplecider¼cup(55g)firmlypackedlightbrownsugar8wholecloves8wholeallspiceberries4wholeblackpeppercorns4slicesfresh,peeledginger,eachabout⅛inchthick3cinnamonsticks½orange,cutcrosswiseinto¼-inch-thickslices

Pourthecider intoapotandsetovermedium-highheat.Addthebrownsugarandstir.Putthecloves,allspice,andpeppercornsintoateainfuser,ateabag,orapieceofcheeseclothtiedupinasack.Addtothecider,alongwiththeginger,cinnamon sticks, and orange slices. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat tomedium-low and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat andsteepforanadditional10minutes.Removethespicepackandcinnamonsticks(leavetheoranges)andserve.Youcansetthepotoverlowheatandletitsitfor2orsohours—agreatoptionifyou’rehostingbrunchoraparty.

JackRose

Here’s a cocktail with a literary pedigree: the blend oflime juice (sometimes lemon, but I prefer the former), grenadine, andapplejackearnedamention inErnestHemingway’s1926classicTheSunAlsoRises (the narrator, Jake Barnes, drinks one in a Paris hotel bar). The exactorigins of the drink are uncertain, but pre-Prohibition New York is the mostlikelycandidate.NOTES: If you can’t find applejack, you can substituteCalvados (French applebrandy). Use the best grenadine you can find. I like Sonoma Syrup Co. andStirringsbrands.EQUIPMENT:Cocktailshaker

MAKES:1drink•TOTALTIME:5minutes

2ouncesLaird’sApplejack(seepage284)½ouncegrenadine(pomegranatesyrup)Juiceof½lime

Combine the ingredients ina shakerand fillwith ice.Shakevigorously for10seconds,thenstrainintoacocktailglass.

Coming-in-from-the-ColdCocktail

On a cool and cloudy early October day in 2004, myhusbandandIweremarriedundertheappletreesatArrowsRestaurantin Ogunquit, Maine. Arrows is an extraordinary place, where owners ClarkFrasier andMarkGaiermaintain ado-it-yourself ethos in everything from thegardenswheretheygrowthebulkoftheirvegetablesandflowersinseason,tothehouse-madebreads and charcuterie, to the apple cider theypressedon-siteand served to our guests as they were arriving for the ceremony. To keepeveryonewarm,theciderwasofferedwithashotofbrandy,whichmaybewhynooneseemedtomindtoomuchwhentheskiesopenedupduringthereceptionandpoundedourtentwithabiblicaldeluge.Whenthepowerwentout,everyoneassumedwe’d arranged for a candlelitmain course.At least, that’swhat theytoldus.NOTE: You can double, triple, or quadruple this recipe as needed to serve acrowd.EQUIPMENT:1-to2-quartsaucepan

MAKES:1drink•TOTALTIME:10minutes

5ounces(148ml)sweetappleciderCinnamonstickPinchofgranulatedsugar2ounces(60ml)brandy(IlikeGermain-RobinFineAlambicBrandyfromCalifornia)

Inasmallsaucepanovermedium-highheat,warmtheciderwiththecinnamonstickandsugaruntiljustbarelysteaming,about8minutes.Pourtheciderintoan8-ounceIrishcoffee–styleglassandstirinthebrandy.Servewarm.

CHAPTERELEVEN

BEYONDBAKING:APPLEFESTIVALS,PRODUCTS,ANDPAIRINGS

PinkPearl

ASelectListofAmericanAppleFestivals

Each fall, hundreds of growers, regions, and boosterorganizationsall over the country host apple festivals of varying stripesandsizes.Addtothatalonglistofspringappleblossomcelebrations,andyouhave an apple bonanza (not tomention amajor distribution channel for ciderdonutsandscentedcandles).

Mostevery festival isworthavisit, and thereare far toomany to listhere(for a longer list, visit www.allaboutapples.com/festivals orwww.pickyourown.org/applefestivals.php). The following are my favorites,organized by region. Please note that dates are approximate, and can changefromyeartoyear.

CENTRAL/MIDWEST

Charlevoix Apple Festival: It’s hard to imagine a prettier spot for an applefestivalthandowntownCharlevoixontheshoresofLakeMichigan,intheheartofMichigan’snorthwestapplecountry.This3-dayeventfeaturesmorethan30varietiesofapples,assortedlocalproduce,crafts,andapettingzoo.

EarlyOctober,downtownCharlevoix,MIcharlevoix.org

JohnnyAppleseedFestival: In the latter part of his life, JohnChapman, a.k.a.JohnnyAppleseed,roamedthelandsaroundFortWayne,plantingorchardsandpreaching the Gospel. This festival pays homage to America’s first appleambassador, turning the city over for two full days of historic reenactments,farmers’markets,livemusic,andafoodcourtinwhichallthefoodispreparedaccordingtonineteenth-centurymethods.

ThirdweekofSeptember,downtownFortWayne,INjohnnyappleseedfest.com

NORTHEAST

FranklinApplefest:How’sthisforadraw:inadditiontotheusualsweettreats,crafts, and contests, there’s an “AppleEverAfter” contest inwhichone luckycouplewinsanall-expenses-paidweddingceremonyandreceptioninthemidstofthefestival.

FirstweekendinOctober,downtownFranklin,PAfranklinapplefest.com

FranklinCountyCiderdays:Mypersonalfavorite:aweekend-longcelebrationofNewEnglandappleculture,withorchardtours,agrandcider tasting,freefruitsamples,cookingdemos,cider-makingworkshops,anapplepancakebreakfast,aharvestsupper,andaclassonciderandcheesepairing.

EarlyNovember,multiplelocationsinFranklinCounty,MAciderday.org

GooldOrchardAppleFestival:Anapplefestivalthatactuallytakesplaceinan

orchard!Thischarmingcelebrationfeatureslocalproduceandlocalwine(madefrom assorted fruit and traditional vinifera grapes), along with arts and craftsvendors.

SecondweekendinOctober,Rte.150,Shodack,NYgoold.com

GreatMaineAppleDay:TheMaineOrganicFarmersandGrowersAssociationsponsors this jam-packed, single-day festival, with rare and heirloom appletastings, cider pressing, fruit tree pruningworkshops, cooking demonstrations,andartisanproducts.

LateOctober,294CrosbyBrookRoad,Unity,MEmofga.org

National Apple Harvest Festival: Come for the food: There are fried apples,applefritters,applesyrup,andanentirepatiodevotedtoapplepancakes.

First twoweekends inOctober, SouthMountain Fairgrounds,Route 234, nearArendtsville,PAappleharvest.com

Queen’sCounty FarmMuseumApple Festival: This is a charming, ifmodestfestival,withapplesamplings,cider-pressingdemonstrations,hayrides,andthe“nation’slargestapplecobbler.”Andbecauseit’sheldonNewYorkCity’s(well,Queens’s)largesttractofundisturbedfarmland,thisisoneagfestyoucantraveltobysubway.

EarlyOctober,73-50LittleNeckPkwy,FloralPark,NYqueensfarm.org

SOUTHEAST

CaseyCountyAppleFestival:Homeofthe“World’sLargestApplePie.”Orsotheysay.At“just”10feetindiameter, it’snotactuallytheworld’sbiggestpie,but it is made from scratch every year and given out free to the public onSaturday.

LateSeptember,downtownLiberty,KYcaseycountyapplefestival.org

VintageVirginiaAppleHarvestFestival:AtAbermarleCiderWorks, justafewmilesfromMonticello,thefestivalfeaturesappleandartisancheesetastingsledby renowned heirloom apple expert Tom Burford, plus ample opportunity tosamplelocalciderandwine.

EarlyNovember,RuralRidgeFarm,2550RuralRidgeLane,NorthGarden,VAvintagevirginiaapples.com

WEST

GravensteinAppleFair:Anold-timecountryfair,Californiastyle.Chefdemos,beekeepingandgoatmilkingdemos,caramelappleeatingcontests, livemusic,farmanimals,andawineandbeergarden.

Mid-August,RagleRanchPark,Sebastopol,CAgravensteinapplefair.com

HoodRiverCountyHeirloomAppleCelebration:TheHoodRiverFruitLoopisa 35-mile drive through the valley’s orchards, and everyOctober, these farmshost a weekend of tours, tastings, apple-butter-making demonstrations, ciderpressings,andacornmaze.

LateOctober,HoodRiverCounty,ORhoodriverfruitloop.com

Malibu Pie Festival: It’s not strictly an apple festival, but there are plenty ofapplepiesonofferatthissurprisinglyhomespunevent.Andwhereelsecanyouspotsomanycelebritieswhilediggingintosomedeepdish?

EarlyOctober,3835CrossCreekRoad,Malibu,CA,310-457-7505

Washington State Apple Blossom Festival: It’s only fitting that the country’sbiggestapple-producingregionwouldhost thecountry’sbiggestapple festival.This11-dayextravaganzatakesoverthecityofWenatcheeeachspringwithtwo

parades,acarnival,athree-dayartsandcraftsfair,afoodfest,acarshow,andlivemusic.

LateApril,downtownWenatchee,WAappleblossom.org

WheretoBuyFreshApplesbyMail

Ifyoucan’tfindheirloomandheritageapplevarietiesinyourregion,thefollowingfarmswillshipdirectlytoyou.

ALYSON’SORCHARD,WALPOLE,NH

Varieties:26inall,fromGingerGoldtoGalatoEsopusSpitzenburgandBlackGilliflower. Andmanager Fran Imhoff says that any of the other 24 varietiestheygrowcanbeshippedviaspecialorder.

Price:$35for18apples,plusshipping;$49for32apples,plusshipping

Contact:603-756-9800,alysonsorchard.com

DOUD’SORCHARD,DENVER,IN

Varieties:This large, family-runorchardshipsup to75differentvarieties.TheAntiqueAppleSamplerbox includes rarities likeMoyer’sPrize,Rhode IslandGreening,andWinterBanana.

Price:Approximately$22for12applesofonevariety,plusshipping;$26for12

applesinsampler,plusshipping

Contact:765-985-3937,doudsorchard.com

GRAYWOLFPLANTATION,NEWOXFORD,PA

Varieties:GrayWolf specializes invarieties thatwerepopularbefore theCivilWar. Their “VintageVarieties” gift box includesYork, Smokehouse, Paradise,SummerRambo,NorthwesternGreening,andJonathan.

Price:$19.50for12apples,plusshipping

Contact:717-624-7204,graywolfplantation.com

KIYOKAWAFAMILYORCHARDS,Parkdale,OR

Varieties:73applevarieties, fromSonata toValstar, to themostexciting,PinkPearl,arose-fleshedvarietythattasteslikeraspberries.

Price:$28to$32for12to15poundsoffruit,plusshipping

Contact:541-352-7115,mthoodfruit.com

TREE-MENDUSFRUIT,EAUCLAIRE,MI

Varieties:Choosefromnearly200varietiesofapples, includingthesuperlativeCalvilleBlancd’Hiver(seepage35).

Price:Heirloomapplesstartat$40for20apples,plusshipping;standardapplesare$25for20,plusshipping

Contact:877-863-3276,treemendus-fruit.com

FavoriteAppleProducts,fromCiderDonutstoVinegar

While researching this book, I sampled an incrediblenumberofapplefoodproductsaroundthecountry.Thefollowingemergedasfavorites,eachcapturingthebeautyofthefruit,orreflectingthelocalappleculture, or ingeniously preserving fresh fruit for long keeping, or simplypresentingadeliciouswaytoenjoyapples.

APLETS

LibertyOrchards:AWashingtonState apple country signature, aplets are littleapple fruit jellies studded with walnuts. They were first invented in 1918 inCashmere,Washington,by twoArmenian-born fruitgrowers,ArmenTertsgianandMarkBalaban,whocleverlymadeuseof their surplus fruitbyadaptingatraditional recipe for TurkishDelight. They cooked the fruit downwith somesugarandgelatin,stirredinwalnuts, let themixtureset, thencut theslabs intocubesandrolled theminsugar. Ifyoudon’t likeverysweet things,bestavoidthese.Butthey’reasentimentalfavoriteofmanyNorthwesterners—thekindofretrotreatyourgrandmotheralwayshadonhand.aplets.com

APPLEBALSAMICVINEGAR

PhiloAppleFarmAppleBalsamicVinegar:This family-run farm inAndersonValley,CA, not only grows exceptional apples (includingmy all-time favoriteapple variety, the Pink Pearl), but turns the fruit into a line of wonderfulproducts, most notably this vinegar, which combines aged cider vinegar andcider syrup. Use in place of regular balsamic in vinaigrettes and sauces, ordrizzledoverfruitsandcheeses.philoapplefarm.com

APPLEBUTTER,COMMERCIAL

EdenOrganicAppleButter:Among all the store-bought brands I’ve sampled,this simple spread has the freshest apple flavor, with just enough apple juiceconcentratetobalancethetartness.Iespeciallylikethatit’sorganic,givenhowconcentratedapplebutteris,andthatit’susuallymadewiththeskinsleftonandthenstrainedoutaftercooking.edenfoods.com

APPLEBUTTER,GOURMET

June Taylor Sierra Beauty and Ginger Apple Butter:The Sierra Beauty apple,grownmostly inNorthernCalifornia, boasts a rich sweetness andwarm spicynotes. Paired with fresh ginger, it really sings. If you haven’t tried June’sproducts before, you’re in for a revelation. They taste like the most intense,fragrantdistillationofthefruit,andthey’reorganic,too.junetaylorjams.com

APPLECHIPS

BareFruitGrannySmithAppleChips:Crunchy likeapotatochip,but fat-freeandmadewithout added sugar—this ismy ideaof amiracle snack.Kids lovethem,too.MadeinWashington,fromorganicapples.barefruitsnacks.com

APPLECIDERDONUTS

AtkinsFarm:PraisedbySaveurassomeofthebestdonutsinthecountry,thesemoist little cakes from a now-famous Amherst, Massachusetts, orchard andfarmstandhaverichappleflavorthatcomesfromacombinationofhouse-madeciderplus the farm’sownapples.Anoptionaldustingofcinnamonsugaraddscrunch and sweet spice flavor—opt for it! I used to eat these gems regularlywhenIwasastudentatSmithCollege,andstilltrytogetoutthereeveryfalltobuyabagortwo.Youcanorderthembymail,too,butfreshisalwaysbest.

atkinsfarm.com

APPLECOFFEECAKE

Harvest Apple Cake, Jennifer’s Kitchen:If you don’t have time tomake yourown, this isaverygoodsubstitute.MadeinIndianabyJenniferKorb,ahomebaker turnedentrepreneur, it’squite sweet andexceedinglymoist, stuffedwithapples,andtoppedwithagenerouscrownofstreusel.cookingbyjennifer.com

APPLEJACK

Laird’sApplejackBrandy:Thefirstspirit-drinkingcolonistslearnedtoproducepotent liquors by leaving homemade hard cider outside in the winter anddisposing of the frozen water on top. Using more sophisticated methods, theLaird family of New Jersey has been producing a similar spirit for twelvegenerations, since patriarch William Laird, a Scotsman by birth, first begandistillinghisownciderin1698.Sixdecadeslater,PresidentGeorgeWashington,anapplegrowerhimself,wrotetosecureacopyoftheLairdrecipeforhisownhome distilling. In deference to contemporary tastes, Laird’s most popularbrandyisnowblendedwithneutralspiritsandapplewinetogiveitasmoothertaste. It’s spunkier thanCalvados and adds a terrific kick to cocktails like theJackRoseonpage277.lairdandcompany.com

APPLEJELLY

Cold Hollow Farm Apple Cider Jelly: Made simply from apple cider, boileddownuntil theapplepectin turns to jelly, this is theultimateglazeforcountryham.It’salsogreatonscones,muffins,andtoast.coldhollow.com

APPLEMUSTARD

Ingrid Oswald Apple and Calvados Mustard: Given how well apples andmustard go together, it’s no surprise that this Calvados and apple-enrichedmustardfromGermanyissodelicious.TryitonsausagesorinagrilledCheddarcheesewithsomethinlyslicedtartapples(seerecipeonpage107).formaggiokitchen.com

APPLEPASTE

JuneTaylorGravensteinApplePaste:Thicker thanapplebutter, thissweet-tartorganicapplepastefromoneofthecountry’smostcelebratedconfectionerscanbe used much like quince paste (membrillo): baked into sweet empanadas;servedwithcheesesorpâtés;servedalongsideham,pork,orduckdishes.junetaylorjams.com

APPLESAUCE

Bauman’sCiderApplesauce:Straight fromPennsylvaniaDutchcountrycomesthis no-sugar-added blend, made in small batches by three generations of theBaumanfamily.Homemademaybebest,butthisisagreatsubstituteifyou’reshortontime.baumanfamily.com

APPLESORBET

CiaoBellaGreenAppleSorbet:Ifyou’renotinclinedtomakeyourownapplesorbet(seepage266),thisbright,pleasinglytartblendiscertainlythenextbestthing. It tastes just like a freshGrannySmith right off the tree, only cold andsomehowcreamy(it’sfatfreeanddairyfree).ciaobellagelato.com

APPLESYRUP

Wood’s CiderMill BoiledCider: Vermontmight bemaple syrup country, but

Vermont-madeWood’sboiledciderismyotherfavoritechoicefordrizzlingoverpancakes or yogurt. Made by evaporating sweet cider, it’s thick, tart, anddelicious,andkeepsforeverintherefrigerator.Ifyoulovetocookwithapples,it’swellworthgoingtothetroubleofsecuringabottle.Iuseittogivemyciderdonutsandapplecupcakestheirrichfruityflavor.woodscidermill.comorkingarthurflour.com

APPLETEA

ElmaMeyveÇayı:AppleteaisthenationalsoftdrinkofTurkey,andthisbrand,flavoredwithblackberryleaves,hibiscus, lemon,andcinnamon,isadelight.Italsomakesawonderfulicedtea.formaggiokitchen.com

APPLEWOODBACON

Zingerman’sApplewoodSmokedBacon:ThelateR.W.AppleoftheNewYorkTimescalledthis“theBelugaofBacon,theRollsRoyceofrashers,”andIhavetoagree.MadebytheNueskefamilyofHillcrest,WI,ithasslightlysweet,fruitynotesfrombeingsmokedinapplewood,andthere’snobettercompaniontotheDutchBabyrecipeonpage159ortheBakedAppleFrenchToastonpage156.zingermans.com

CIDERVINEGAR

KatzGravensteinAppleCiderVinegar:Thisvinegar,madeinNapa,California,isbarrel-agedlongenoughtodeveloprichvanillaflavors,buttruetotheapplevarietyit’smadefrom,retainsahintofsweetness.Theresultissomildthatyoucouldalmostsipitstraightup,butitstillhasenoughaciditytobrightenstewsorworkbrilliantlyinvinaigrettes.katzandco.com

FROZENAPPLEPIE

VermontMysticPieCompany:TheonlyfrozenpieIknowthatyoucouldbakeupandpassoffasyourown.VermontMysticwasfoundedbyaBen&Jerry’salum namedDaveBarash and funded byBen himself, and like the ice creambehemoth,thecompanyhasamissiontouseVermontingredientsinitsproducts.Hence, you’ll find local apples (Northern Spy, Empire, and Cortland), KingArthurflour,andCabotbutterineverypie—thesamestuffIuseathome.Asaresult,eachbiteisflaky,buttery,sweet-tart,andfresh.vermontmysticpie.com

SPICEDAPPLES

RobertLambertSpicedCrabApples: Iknowmanypeoplehaveasoftspot forthebeet-redapplesthatcomeinacanandtasteprimarilyofsugarandcinnamonoil,butifyouwanttoknowspicedapplesastheyusedtotastebackwhentheywere made with native crab apples, try these. Robert Lambert makes hispreservesinMarinCounty,California,usingamixofapplejuice,cidervinegar,sugar, and spices. The result is tart, but not vinegary, delicately spiced, andsimplymuchmoreinterestingthanthatredstuff.Serveitasanaccompanimenttocheesesormeats.robertlambert.com

Cider:TwentyFavoriteLabels,withTastingNotes

This is just a small sampling of the hundreds of cidersthatareproducedcommerciallyallovertheworld,butI’vetriedtoprovidearange of styles and geographic areas, in the hope that you’ll be inspired toexploreciderdrinkingasaworthypursuit,muchinthewayoftastingfinewine.Thenoblegrapemay sit at the topof theoenologicalpyramid,but applescanproduces wines and ciders with tremendous complexity, variability, and plaindeliciousness.Andsincecidersaregenerallymadetobedrunkfresh,there’snoneedtoinvestinawinecellarandwaitforthemtoage.

AnotherreasonIlovecideristhatit’safullylocalproductinmanyregions

wheregrapessimplydon’tthrive.I’dlovetoseeamorevibrantNewEnglandorMichigan or British Columbia cider culture, complete with “cider trails” fortourists (who, incidentally, would be safer in their travels than their wine-drinkingfriends,sincecidertypicallyhas5to7percentalcohol,asopposedtowine’s average in the low teens). I’ve seen somany people express delightedsurpriseattheirfirsttasteofagoodhardcider—whynothostatastingpartyofyourownandhelpsupportthemodernciderrenaissance?

ÆPPELTREOWWINERY,BURLINGTON,WI

AppelyBrutSparklingCider:Thiscider,fermentedinthebottleaccordingtothetraditionalChampagnemethod,ismuchdrierthanmostoftheotherslistedhere,with sweet flowers and yeast in the nose. Tannins are more pronounced, butthey’re lightened by ripe pear flavors. All in all, an intriguing sipper, and anaturalpartnertosharpCheddarcheeses,roastchicken,orThanksgivingturkey.aeppeltreow.com

ALMARORCHARDS,FLUSHING,MI

J.K.’s Scrumpy Hard Cider: This is one of my favorite ciders to serve withdessert or with a cheese course. It is tongue-coatingly sweet, with an appleblossomnose and lots of ripe nectarines in themouth.Even better, it’s a truefarmstead cider,whichmeans it’smadewith juice fromapples that aregrownon-site,inthiscasebytheKoanfamily,whohavebeenintheapplebusinessforfourgenerations.organicscrumpy.com

ERICBORDELET,CHARCHIGNE,NORMANDY,FRANCE

SydreArgelette:ThisciderstrikesmeasparticularlyFrench:leanandcomplex,withidentifiablecaramelandfruitflavors,butalsohintsofsmoke,wood,toast,andanearlymedicinalqualitythatsomehowmanagestobalanceouttheflavorsandlendinterest.Thisisacidertocontemplate,nottoguzzlewithpicnicfood.

Instead,tryitwithwithcreamysoupsorsaucesormildcreamycheeses.http://bordelet.ifrance.com

DOMAINECHRISTIANDROUIN,COUDRAY-RABUT,NORMANDY,FRANCE

Cidre Pays d’Auge:This velvety cider from Domaine Drouin—a respectedCalvados maker—has the most wonderful smokiness, which plays off thecaramelizedapple flavors inaway thatmakesme thinkofeating tarte tatin infront of a roaring fire. The blend of 70% bitter apples, 20% sweet, and 10%acidicfruitresultsinabrewthatisrichandcomplex,andyetentirelyaccessible.calvados-drouin.com

ÉTIENNEDUPONT,VICTOT-PONTFOL,NORMANDY,FRANCE

CidreBouché:Thenoseisallleatherandminerals,buttheflavorissurprisinglysweetandfruity,withfreshapple,somespice,andanoverlayofpeach.Tanninsroundupthefinishwithoutoverridingthefruit.Ifyou’renewtociderdrinkingorhopingtoconvertawinesnob,startwiththistrulylovelyexample.calvados-dupont.com

EDENICECIDERCOMPANY,WESTCHARLESTON,VT

CalvilleBlend IceCider:Much like icewinemade fromgrapes, ice cider (orappleicewine,asit’ssometimescalled)ismadefromjuicethatisconcentratedbyfreezing.Therearedifferentways todo this,buthere the juice isextractedfromtheapplesandthenfrozen,atwhichpointsomeofthewaterseparatesoutandisremoved.Theconcentratedjuiceisthenfermentedandaged.Thiswineissorich,youcouldreallyserveitfordessert,butit’snevercloying,thankstotheperfectlybalancedacidity.It’sambrosiainaglass.edenicecider.com

FARNUMHILLCIDERS,LEBANON,NH

Semi-DryCider:Lightandlovely,withlotsofdelicatebubbles,plentyofcrisp,tart apple and subtle tannins, it has a long dried fruit finish. Lovers of sweetcidermayfindthatthisisadrytypethattheycanembrace,particularlychilledandservedwithcheeses,pork,andeggdishes.povertylaneorchards.com

FOGGYRIDGECIDER,DUGSPUR,VA

FirstFruit:ThismildlysweetciderfromtheBlueRidgemountainsismadefromablendofAmericanheirloomslikeHarrison,Graniwinkle,andRoxburyRusset,alongwithtraditionalEnglishandFrenchcidervarieties.It’saneasydrinker—lightlyeffervescent,withripeapple,peach,andstrawberryflavors.foggyridgecider.com

FURNACEBROOKWINERY,RICHMOND,MA

FrenchCidre:Someaging time inFrenchoakbarrels gives this cider its deepwoodandvanillaflavors,butthere’salsoawonderfultartnessandahitoflemoninthenose.Thisisasweetercider,andwouldholduptoawiderangeofcheeses(tryComté)andfruitdesserts.furnacebrookwinery.com

HENNEY’SCIDERCOMPANY,BISHOPSFROME,

HEREFORDSHIRE,ENGLAND

FromeValleyDryCider: Smooth as silk,with abundant tropical fruit (mostlyguava and mango) flavors that give the cider an almost-sweet finish, eventhough there is very little residual sugar. The nose is very subtle, with theslightesthintoftobacco.Anicebackboneoftanninsbalancesthefruitiness,andtinybubbleslendafestiveair.

henneys.co.uk

OLIVERWINERY,BLOOMINGTON,IN

BeanblossomHardCider:Thissemi-sweet,easy-drinkingciderismadefromacombination of antique apple varieties, such as Cox’s Orange Pippin, andrelativenewcomers,likeGoldrush.It’scrispandjustbarelycarbonated,andhasthenicestfreshapplearomasandflavors.It’sanothergreatstarterciderforthenewcomer,andIcan’tthinkofanicerdrinktohaveonapicnic.oliverwinery.com

OLIVER’SCIDER&PERRY,OCLEPYCHARD,HEREFORDSHIRE,ENGLAND

HerefordshireDryCider:Herefordshireisanancientapple-growingregion,andthe orchards at Oliver’s boast such colorfully named varieties as BroxwoodFoxwhelp, Slackma Girdle, Chisel Jersey, and Hangy Down. The Dry Ciderhere is still (that is, no bubbles), and with its assertive tannins, green appletartness,anddryfinish,it’sgreatexampleofamuchleanerandearthierstyleofcider-making.theolivers.org.uk

ORIGINALSIN,NEWYORK,NY

HardCider:TheNewYorkTimesgavethiscideraravebackin2003,andit’soneof the better widely available American varieties. In appearance, it brings tomind a prosecco, with pale color and ample delicate bubbles. The nose is ofgreen apple skins (fitting, as it’s made entirely from domestic Granny Smithapples).The flavor isvery ripeand round,withabitofpear, forward tannins,and a buttery middle. It’s great with salmon, butternut squash, popcorn, andnuttycheeses,suchasGruyère.origsin.com

SEACIDERFARM&CIDERHOUSE,VICTORIA,BC,CANADA

Rumrunner:Talk about noble origins:This extraordinary cult favorite ismadefrom organic heirloom apples grown in an ocean-view orchard in northeastVictoriaIsland.VarietieslikeWinterBananaandWinesaparepressedandthenaged in rum barrels (hence the name), which contribute incredible flavors oftoffeeandbrownsugarandplayoffthetartnessofthejuice.seacider.ca

SLYBOROCIDERHOUSE,GRANVILLE,NY

HiddenStar:Asemi-drycidermadefromNorthernSpyandLibertyapples,thisHudsonRiverValleystarboastsgentlebubbles,theslightesthintofsweetness,andcleantropicalfruitflavors.slyboro.com

SAMUELSMITHOLDBREWERY,TADCASTER,NORTHYORKSHIRE,ENGLAND

OrganicCider:Thisisasimpleandinexpensivecider(about$4forapint),anditpresentsagoodvalueforanewciderdrinker,withnicefreshappleandgreengrapeflavorsandenoughaciditytostanduptothesweetness.Therearen’tanynotable tannins to lend complexity, and the finish is short, but I like that it’smadefromorganicapplejuiceandislightenoughtobefullyrefreshingonahotsummer’sday.merchantduvin.com

WANDERINGAENGUSCIDERWORKS,SALEM,OR

Semi-Dry Cider: The hint of sweetness in this semi-dry cider boosts thewonderful fruit flavorswithout dulling the complexity that the “serious” cider

crowd demands. I taste green apple peel, citrus, pear, and even some ginger.Consideritanaturalaccompanimentforbarbecue.wanderingaengus.com

WARWICKVALLEYWINERYANDDISTILLERY,WARWICK,NY

Doc’sDraft: The nose is a curious blend of lemon and petrol, and the flavortendsmoretowardthefunky/“farmyard”endofthespectrumthatIusuallylike.That’s not a criticism, though. Farmyard flavors are common in cider. Andthere’sanicelivelinesshere,fromthevigorousbubblestothehintofsweetness,to thewarm spice flavor that coats themiddleof your tongue. It’smade fromlocalNewYorkapples,anditsimplytasteslikefall.Tryitwithporkdishes,theBraised Brisket with Apples and Hard Cider on page 126, or spiced appledesserts.wvwinery.com/cider

WESTCOUNTYCIDER,COLRAIN,MA

HeritageApple:Vibrantwithacidity,spice,andabundantfizzandanchoredbyforwardtanninsandminerality,thisciderblendsBaldwin,RoxburyRusset,andvariousEuropeanciderapplesforanicebalanceofflavorandstructure.I lovethemixofnativeMassachusettsapples(theBaldwinandRoxbury)withprovenOldWorldvarieties.ThelateTerryMaloney,whofoundedWestCountywithhiswife, Judith,wasadriving force in theAmericancider revival,andhis familystill produces beautiful ciders, many made from single apple varieties. Thisblendismyfavorite,andit’sterrificwithacupoftraditionalNewEnglandclamchowder.westcountycider.com

WOODCHUCKDRAFTCIDER,MIDDLEBURY,VT

HardCider:Woodchuck’scidersareknownforbeingaccessiblecrowd-pleasers,sweeter than most, with simple ripe fruit flavors. In other words, they’re thewinecoolersoftheciderworld.Seriousdrinkersmayturntheirnoseupatthis,butIincludethisonebecauseit’stastyand,inaworldwhereciderisstilltryingtocatchon,widelyavailable.Ifyou’relookingforaneasypairingforbarbecueandhaven’ttriedciderbefore,thisisagoodentrypoint.woodchuck.com

PAIRINGCIDERANDCHEESE

Applescomplementsuchawidevarietyofcheeses, it’sno surprise that cider should also pair well, too. In fact, I find that theaverageciderisbetter-suited tocheese thantheaveragewine,for tworeasons:Cider boastsmore prominent yeast flavors, which tend to echo the nutty andtangyflavorsincheese.Inaddition,mostwidelyavailablecidersarecarbonatedtosomedegree,andbubbleshaveawonderfulwayofcuttingthroughthebutterinyourBrie.

Afewguidelineswillhelpyougetstarted:1 Pair region with region. Ciders from Normandy tend to go beautifully

withlocalsoft-rindcheeseslikeCamembertandPontl’Évêque.Somersetciders are lovely with mild to medium-sharp Cheddars. The parallelsaren’tquiteasclearintheU.S.,wherecider-makingandcheese-makinghaven’t evolved together over hundreds of years. But I’ve certainlyenjoyedabutteryVermont-madeTarantaisefromThistleHillFarmwithSummerCiderfromnearbyFarnumHill.Likewise,JasperHillFarminGreensboro,VT,makesaBayleyHazenBluethatcandanceatangowithlocalEdenIceCider.

2 Moo.Baa.Broadlyconsidered,sheepandcow’smilkcheesestendtopairwithciderbetterthangoat’smilkvarieties.ButverystrongcheesessuchascertainbluesandverysharpCheddarorGranaPadanowilloverwhelmmanyciders.Proceedwithcaution,andaskyourcheesemongerorcider-maker.

3 Thinknuts,caramel,andfruit.Ifyourcheesehasaprofilethatfitsanyofthose descriptions (think Manchego, Basque, Abbaye de Belloc,Tarantaise),it’llpairwellwithawidervarietyofciders.

4 Accessorize. Even if your pairing isn’t perfect, adding classic cheeseaccompaniments like almonds, honey, quince paste, and fig cakes cancreateaflavorbridgebetweenstrongercheesesanddrierciders.

5 When indoubt, go sweet.Evenblue cheeses and the other difficult-to-pair types mentioned above may do just fine if your cider is sweetenoughtosmooththeirroughedges.Thefloralnotesin,say,Gorgonzoladolce,wouldbringoutthebestinanicecider.Asweetandeasydrinkerwith strong apple flavor, like J.K.’s Scrumpy, would be fine with asharperCheddaroranagedgoatcheesethathadlostsomeofitslemonytang.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

S.A.Beach.TheApplesofNewYork,volIandII.Albany,NewYork:StateofNewYorkDepartmentofAgriculture,1903.

FrankBrowning.Apples:TheStoryoftheFruitofTemptation.NewYork:NorthPointPress,1999.

Beth Hanson, ed. The Best Apples to Buy and Grow. New York: BrooklynBotanicGarden,1995.

Barrie E. Juniper and David J. Mabberly. The Story of the Apple. Portland,Oregon:TimberPress,2006.

Joan Morgan and Alison Richards. The New Book of Apples: The DefinitiveGuidetoOver2,000Varieties.London:EburyPress,2003.

MichaelPollan.TheBotany ofDesire: APlant’s-Eye View of theWorld. NewYork:RandomHouse,2001.

Annie Proulx and Lew Nichols.Cider: Making, Using & Enjoying Sweet &HardCider.NorthAdams,Massachusetts:StoreyPublishing,2003.

Mark Rosenstein. In Praise of Apples: A Harvest of History, Horticulture &Recipes.Asheville,NorthCarolina:LarkBooks,1996.

RogerYepsen.Apples.NewYork:W.W.Norton&Company,1994.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Iamgratefultomanypeoplewhomadethisbookpossible.First,tomyhusband,Scott,thankyouforyourpatience,goodhumor,cheerleading,andwillingnesstotastejustaboutanything.Nothinginlifewouldbeasgoodasitiswithoutyou.Thank you to Max for being our joy. And endless gratitude to MariaGuarnaschelli,myeditor,forbelievinginthisbook,stickingwithit,andmakingitsomuchbetterthanitwouldhavebeenotherwise.

ThankstoMelanieTortoroliforherkindness,hardwork,andwisecounsel;toSusanSanfreyforhercarefuleye;tothelateMichaelCarltonforgivingmemystart asa foodwriter; and tomyagentand friendJoyTutela forbelievingthatIhadabookinme.

I learnedmuchabout apples and theirhistory,genetics, anddiversity fromDr.SusanBrown,ChristieHigginbottom,JohnBunker,StephenWood,andBenWatson.

For their help with recipe development and testing, thanks to AdeenaSussman,MeredithRogers,JessicaBattilana,MollyWatson,WillGilson,DenaEhrlich,andtheTwitterfoodiecommunity.AndthankstotheMullaneandRosefamiliesandtoRogerPepperlforyourhelpwiththeessays.

The beautiful photos in this book are thanks to the talents of Squire Fox,Peter Thompson, Michael Pederson, Tracy Keshani, Charan Devereaux, andBeth Flatley. The design is the work of the talented Jan Derevjanik, themeticulousDevonZahn,andthecreativeIngsuLiu.

For their excellent fruit (and for their willingness to do rush deliveries),thankstoRandyKiyokawa,MikeZingler,TimBates,andGeneCalvi.

Lastly, thanks to friends and family whose support meant everything: Inparticular,HenryandElaineTraverso;RoseTraverso,JoanTraverso,MadelineZanardi,andMaryQuagliaroli;Jill,Fred,Abbie,andWillVogel;NancyKirsner;Harry, Brenda, Ashley, and Shira Kirsner; Ashley Adler and Katelyn Bhatti;BridgetSamburg;RichardJacobs;GilMartinez(thelogowasthebeginningofitall!);andmanyfriendswhoofferedtheirhelpandideasalongtheway.

PinkLady

INDEX

Pagenumbersinboldfacetyperefertorecipesthemselves;pagenumbersinitalictyperefertophotographs.

Page numbers listed correspond to the print edition of this book.You can useyourdevice’ssearchfunctiontolocateparticulartermsinthetext.

acornsquashAcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple,112–13SquashStuffedwithApples,Pancetta,andWalnuts,114–15

AdamandEvestory,18–19Adams,John,221AerlieRedFleshedapple.SeeHiddenRoseappleAlbanyHorticulturalSociety,46AlbemarlePippinapple.SeeNewtownPippinappleAlexanderapple,226almondpasteBakedAppleswithFrangipaneFilling,229–30

almondsApple,Date,andAlmondCharoset,273BakedAppleswithFrangipaneFilling,229–30

Ambrosiaapple,30,31,31AomoriExperimentStation,49aplets,aboutandsourcefor,283appetizers.SeestartersApple,Cheddar,andCaramelizedOnionPastryPuffs,83Apple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa,26,28,274Apple,Date,andAlmondCharoset,273Apple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad,94,95AppleandChestnut–StuffedPorkLoinwithCiderSauce,99,144,145–47,146AppleandMustardGrilledCheeseSandwiches,106,107–8,284Apple-ApricotKuchen,171–72

applebalsamicvinegar,aboutandsourcefor,283applebrandy/applejackApplejack-SageGravy,123,125ChickenLiverPâtéwithApple,80,81–82Cider-BraisedPorkwithCalvadosandPrunes,140–41,228JackRose,277,284aboutandsourcefor,284SpicedApple-CranberryCompote,57,87,235,236

AppleBreadPuddingwithSaltedCaramelSauce,233–34applebreedingprogramsDepartmentofAgricultureandFoodofwesternAustralia,52NewYorkStateAgriculturalExperimentStation(NYSAES),36,37,46,48,

57,74–77OhioAgriculturalExperimentStation,49PurdueUniversityHorticulturalResearchFarm,41RutgersUniversityHorticulturalResearchFarm,58TohokuResearchStation,39UniversityofIdahoAgriculturalExperimentStation,45UniversityofMinnesotaHorticulturalResearchCenter,44,47,58,76–77

AppleBrownies,40,238applebutterKentuckyAppleStackCake—TraditionalVersion,248,250,251–52OvernightAppleButter,251,275PumpkinandAppleCustard,111aboutandsourcefor,283

applechipsAppleChipswithSpicedYogurtDip,84aboutandsourcefor,283

applecider.Seeboiledcider;cider;cider,fresh;cider,hardAppleCider–BrinedTurkeywithApplejack-SageGravy,123–24appleciderdonutsaboutandsourcefor,283–84VermontAppleCiderDonuts,71,153–55,154

AppleClafoutis,53,237applecoffeecake,284applecorer,71AppleCranberryScones,167

applecrispGrandma’sAppleCrisp,14,185–86,187,189Oatmeal-ToppedAppleCrisp,187–88,197

AppleDumplingswithCider-RumSauce,231–32AppleEmpanadas,219–20applefestivals,280–81AppleGingerbreadUpside-DownCake,253–54Apple-GingersnapIceCream,264–65appleindustry,globalizationof,22,184applejack.Seeapplebrandy/applejackApplejack-SageGravy,123,125applejelly,aboutandsourcefor,284applemustard,aboutandsourcefor,284ApplePandowdy,221–22applepaste,aboutandsourcefor,284Apple-PearCobblerwithLemon-CornmealBiscuits,212–13applepeeler,71applepeeler/corer,71ApplePiewithCrumbTopping,197–98ApplePumpkinWalnutMuffins,173AppleRisotto(RisottoalleMelle),104–5applesauceApplesauce-PistachioBundtCakewithCiderGlaze,255–56ClassicApplesauce,116,117,268LowfatGingerbreadApplesauceCake,257–58Orange-ScentedSpicedApplesauce,269aboutandsourcefor,284

Appleseed,Johnny(JohnChapman),20,43,280applesize,weight,andyield,69,70appleslicer,71applesorbet,aboutandsourcefor,284Apple-StuddedBrownButterStreuselCoffeeCake,168,169–70Apple-StuffedBiscuitBuns,164–66,165applesyrup,aboutandsourcefor,284appletea,aboutandsourcefor,285AppleTeaCakewithLemonGlaze,240–43,241,242applevarieties.Seevarietiesofapple

applewoodbacon,aboutandsourcefor,285apricotjamApple-ApricotKuchen,171–72

apricots,driedBakedAppleOatmealPudding,163

ArkansasBlackapple,30,31,31,196arugulaApple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad,94,95DuckPanzanellawithApplesandThyme,51,138–39

Ashmead’sKernelapple,30,32,32,224AshtonBitterapple,150AtkinsFarm,153,283–84Autumn“Coleslaw”withDates,Apples,andPecans,93

baconAppleCider–BrinedTurkeywithApplejack-SageGravy,123–24applewood,aboutandsourcefor,285Bacon-WrappedDateswithCurriedAppleHash,26,78–79BraisedBrisketwithApplesandHardCider,126–27ChestnutSoupwithBacon,88Spinach,Apple,PickledOnion,andBaconSaladwithCiderVinaigrette,98SquashStuffedwithApples,Pancetta,andWalnuts,114–15

Bacon-WrappedDateswithCurriedAppleHash,26,78–79Bailsford,MaryAnne,35BakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbTopping,36,156–57,285BakedAppleOatmealPudding,163bakedapplesBakedAppleswithFrangipaneFilling,229–30Cider-BakedApples,228,229

Baldwin,Loammi,32Baldwinapple,30,32,32,63Ball,John,32Battilana,Jessica,239Beach,S.A.,36,226BedfordshireClanger,129beefBraisedBrisketwithApplesandHardCider,126–27

bellpeppersApple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa,26,28,274

BenDavisapple,20biscuitcutter,71Bittman,Mark,114BlackOxfordapple,23,30,33,33,225BlackTwigapple,30,33,33Blaxton,William,19Blaxton’sYellowSweetingapple,19BluePearmainapple,20,30,34,34,224BlueRibbonDeep-DishApplePie,192,193–96,195boiledciderabout,153,259SpicedAppleCupcakeswithCinnamonCreamCheeseFrosting,259–60,261VermontAppleCiderDonuts,71,153–55,154

Braeburnapple,27,28,30,34,34,183BraeburnOrchard,34BraisedBrisketwithApplesandHardCider,126–27Bramley,Matthew,35Bramley’sSeedlingapple,30,35,35brandyapple.Seeapplebrandy/applejackComing-in-from-the-ColdCocktail,278

bread.Seealsobuns;cornbread;muffins;sandwiches;sconesApple andChestnut–Stuffed Pork LoinwithCider Sauce, 99,144,145–47,

146AppleBreadPuddingwithSaltedCaramelSauce,233–34BakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbTopping,36,156–57,285DuckPanzanellawithApplesandThyme,51,138–39HolidayApple-RaisinChallah,178,179–80IrishSodaBreadwithApplesandCurrants,177RusticAppleBrownBetty,42,211Sausage,Apple,andCheddarStrata,175–76SquashandAppleGratin,100,101–2WelshRarebitwithApples,109–10

breadpuddingAppleBreadPuddingwithSaltedCaramelSauce,233–34

Sausage,Apple,andCheddarStrata,175–76breedingapples,76.Seealsohorticulturebreedingprograms.SeeapplebreedingprogramsbrineddishesAppleCider–BrinedTurkeywithApplejack-SageGravy,123–24Cider-BrinedPorkChopswithMustardPanSauce,99,142–43

briocheBakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbTopping,36,156–57,285

BritishColumbiaExperimentalStation,56brix,75Brown,Susan,24,74–76,77brownbettyRusticAppleBrownBetty,42,211

browningapplesresistantto,30preventing,65

buckleButtermilkAppleBuckle,214–15

buckwheatgroats.Seekashabudding,90Buel,J.,46Bunker,John,23,224–27bunsApple-StuffedBiscuitBuns,164–66,165

butter,about,70buttermilkabout,70AppleCranberryScones,167AppleGingerbreadUpside-DownCake,253–54Apple-StuddedBrownButterStreuselCoffeeCake,168,169–70Apple-StuffedBiscuitBuns,164–66,165AppleTeaCakewithLemonGlaze,240–43,241,242ButtermilkAppleBuckle,214–15IrishSodaBreadwithApplesandCurrants,177KentuckyAppleStackCake—ModernVersion,248–49KentuckyAppleStackCake—TraditionalVersion,248,250,251–52Oatmeal-ApplePancakes,39,161–62

Southern-StyleCornbread,132,134substitutefor,70VermontAppleCiderDonuts,71,153–55,154

ButtermilkAppleBuckle,214–15butternutsquashCider-GlazedRootVegetables,99,144,146SquashandAppleGratin,100,101–2

cabbage.Seeredcabbagecakes.Seealsocoffeecake;cupcakesApple-ApricotKuchen,171–72AppleBrownies,40,238AppleGingerbreadUpside-DownCake,253–54Applesauce-PistachioBundtCakewithCiderGlaze,255–56AppleTeaCakewithLemonGlaze,240–43,241,242KentuckyAppleStackCake—ModernVersion,248–49KentuckyAppleStackCake—TraditionalVersion,248,250,251–52LowfatGingerbreadApplesauceCake,257–58mixing,68SimpleAppleNutCake,239

Calvados.Seeapplebrandy/applejackCalvilleBlancd’Hiverapple,13,19,30,35,35,152,196Cameoapple,30,36,36,183caramelapplesSaltedCaramelAppleswithCinnamonGrahamCrackerCrumbs,262–63

CaramelizedApples,233,245,247carrotsCider-GlazedRootVegetables,99,144,146MorningGloryMuffins,40,174SweetPotato,Apple,andGingerSoup,26,85–86

cashewsAcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple,112–13

celeryChickenWaldorfSalad,96–97

challahBakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbTopping,36,156–57,285HolidayApple-RaisinChallah,178,179–80

Champagneapple,120,122Chapman,John(JohnnyAppleseed),20,43,280CheddarcheeseAcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple,112–13AppleandMustardGrilledCheeseSandwiches,106,107–8,284Apple,Cheddar,andCaramelizedOnionPastryPuffs,83PorkandApplePiewithCheddar-SageCrust,2,51,128,129–31,130Sausage,Apple,andCheddarStrata,175–76WelshRarebitwithApples,109–10

cheese.Seealsospecifictypesofcheesepairingwithcider,290

cherries,driedBakedAppleswithFrangipaneFilling,229–30

chestnutsApple andChestnut–Stuffed Pork LoinwithCider Sauce, 99,144, 145–47,

146ChestnutSoupwithBacon,88ChestnutSoupwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote,87–88,236

ChickenLiverPâtéwithApple,80,81–82ChickenWaldorfSalad,96–97China,appleproductionof,22,184ChiselJerseyapple,150ciderabout,19,20,21,286–89boiled.Seeboiledciderpairingwithcheese,290productionof,152sourcesfor,286–89

cider,freshApple andChestnut–Stuffed Pork LoinwithCider Sauce, 99,144, 145–47,

146Apple,Cheddar,andCaramelizedOnionPastryPuffs,83AppleCider–BrinedTurkeywithApplejack-SageGravy,123–24AppleDumplingswithCider-RumSauce,231–32AppleEmpanadas,219–20Applesauce-PistachioBundtCakewithCiderGlaze,255–56BakedAppleswithFrangipaneFilling,229–30

CaramelizedApples,233,245,247Cider-BakedApples,228,229Cider-BrinedPorkChopswithMustardPanSauce,99,142–43Cider-GlazedRootVegetables,99,144,146Coming-in-from-the-ColdCocktail,278KentuckyAppleStackCake—ModernVersion,248–49MulledAppleCider,154,276OvernightAppleButter,251,275Pan-SearedSalmonwithCider-GlazedOnions,148SausagewithBraisedCabbageandApples,36,137SkilletApplePie,199–200SweetPotato,Apple,andGingerSoup,26,85–86

cider,hardAcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple,112–13AppleCider–BrinedTurkeywithApplejack-SageGravy,123–24BraisedBrisketwithApplesandHardCider,126–27Cider-BraisedPorkwithCalvadosandPrunes,140–41,228TennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple,56,132–33

Cider-BakedApples,228,229Cider-BraisedPorkwithCalvadosandPrunes,140–41,228Cider-BrinedPorkChopswithMustardPanSauce,99,142–43ciderdonutsaboutandsourcefor,283–84VermontAppleCiderDonuts,71,153–55,154

Cider-GlazedRootVegetables,99,144,146ciderjack,19cidervinegar,sourcefor,285CinnamonRicePuddingwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote,235,236clafoutisAppleClafoutis,53,237

ClassicApplesauce,116,117,268coatingsonapples,61cobblerApple-PearCobblerwithLemon-CornmealBiscuits,212–13

cocktailsComing-in-from-the-ColdCocktail,278JackRose,277,284

coconutMorningGloryMuffins,40,174

coffeecake,appleaboutandsourcefor,284Apple-ApricotKuchen,171–72Apple-StuddedBrownButterStreuselCoffeeCake,168,169–70

Cohen,Aaron,189Cohen,Kathy,179ColdHollowCiderMill,153coleslawAutumn“Coleslaw”withDates,Apples,andPecans,93

columnarapples,76.SeealsohorticultureComing-in-from-the-ColdCocktail,278compoteSpicedApple-CranberryCompote,57,87,235,236

controlledatmospherestorage(CA),61cookingtimes,68coringapples,64,64cornbreadSouthern-StyleCornbread,132,134TennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple,56,132–33

cornmealApple-PearCobblerwithLemon-CornmealBiscuits,212–13Southern-StyleCornbread,132,134

Cortlandapple,28,30,36,36,73,75Costardapple,19Cox,Richard,37Cox’sOrangePippinapple,30,37,37,184cranberriesdried.SeedriedcranberriesFree-FormApple-Pear-CranberryTart,208–10,209

creamAppleBreadPuddingwithSaltedCaramelSauce,233–34Apple-GingersnapIceCream,264–65SaltedCaramelAppleswithCinnamonGrahamCrackerCrumbs,262–63

creamcheeseSpicedAppleCupcakeswithCinnamonCreamCheeseFrosting,259–60,261

CrêpesFilledwithCaramelizedApplesandServedwithMapleCrèmeFraîche,38,244,245–46,247

Cripps,John,52CrippsPinkapple.SeePinkLadyappleCrispinapple.SeeMutsuapplecrust,pie.SeepiecrustcucumbersApple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa,26,28,274QuickBread-and-ButterApplePickles,106,270–72,271

cupcakesSpicedAppleCupcakeswithCinnamonCreamCheeseFrosting,259–60,261

currantsIrishSodaBreadwithApplesandCurrants,177

curryBacon-WrappedDateswithCurriedAppleHash,26,78–79

custardPumpkinandAppleCustard,111

datesAcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple,112–13Apple,Date,andAlmondCharoset,273Autumn“Coleslaw”withDates,Apples,andPecans,93Bacon-WrappedDateswithCurriedAppleHash,26,78–79

DeerfieldPie,201DepartmentofAgricultureandFoodofwesternAustralia,52dicingapples,65dipAppleChipswithSpicedYogurtDip,84

Dixon,Fred,120,121–22Dixon’sAppleFarm,120–22donuts,cideraboutandsourcefor,283–84VermontAppleCiderDonuts,71,153–55,154

dormantwoodgrafting,90–91Double-CrustApplePie,190–91dressingTennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple,56,132–33

driedapplesAppleCranberryScones,167AppleEmpanadas,219–20KentuckyAppleStackCake—ModernVersion,248–49

driedapricotsBakedAppleOatmealPudding,163

driedcherriesBakedAppleswithFrangipaneFilling,229–30

driedcranberriesAcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple,112–13AppleCranberryScones,167BakedAppleOatmealPudding,163Cider-BakedApples,228,229SpicedApple-CranberryCompote,57,87,235,236

DuchessofOldenburgapple,184DuckPanzanellawithApplesandThyme,51,138–39dumplingsAppleDumplingswithCider-RumSauce,231–32

DutchBaby,38,158,159–61,160,285

eggsAppleBreadPuddingwithSaltedCaramelSauce,233–34AppleClafoutis,53,237BakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbTopping,36,156–57,285BakedAppleOatmealPudding,163CinnamonRicePuddingwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote,235,236DutchBaby,38,158,159–61,160,285HolidayApple-RaisinChallah,178,179–80PumpkinandAppleCustard,111Sausage,Apple,andCheddarStrata,175–76SpicedAppleCupcakeswithCinnamonCreamCheeseFrosting,259–60,261SweetPotato–AppleLatkes,116,117–18TennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple,56,132–33

eggyolksApple-GingersnapIceCream,264–65

empanadasAppleEmpanadas,219–20

Empireapple,30,37,37,75EndiveSaladwithApples,Walnuts,andGorgonzola,92equipment,71–72EsopusSpitzenburgapple,30,38,38Etter,Albert,52evaporatedmilkPumpkinandAppleCustard,111

Fameuseapple,30,38,38,224FedcoTrees,224festivals,apple,280–81Field,Michael,81firm-sweetapples,26,28,30,196Baldwin,30,32,32,63BlackOxford,23,30,33,33,225BluePearmain,20,30,34,34,224Braeburn,27,28,30,34,34,183Cameo,30,36,36,183GingerGold,28,30,40,40,267GoldenDelicious,28,30,40,40,183,184,225GoldenRusset,30,41,41Gravenstein,30,42,42,62,196GrimesGolden,20,30,43,43Honeycrisp,30,44,44,62,183Jazz,22,25,29,30,45,45,184Jonagold,30,46,46,75,183,196Keepsake,30,47,47,223Melrose,30,49,49,149Mutsu,30,49,49Opalescent,30,51,51Piñata,30,51,51,184PinkLady,22,28,29,30,52,52,183,184,292ReinedesReinette,30,53,53Spigold,30,57,57SweeTango,25,30,58,58WinterBanana,15,30,59,59ZabergauReinette,30,60,60,89

firm-tartapples,26,28,30,196ArkansasBlack,30,31,31,196Ashmead’sKernel,30,32,32,224Bramley’sSeedling,30,35,35CalvilleBlancd’Hiver,13,19,30,35,35,152,196EsopusSpitzenburg,30,38,38Goldrush,30,41,41GrannySmith,28,30,42,42,68,183HiddenRose,30,43,43,119Idared,30,45,45,68NewtownPippin,15,30,50,50,68,196NorthernSpy,15,28,30,50,50,68,196PinkPearl,30,52,52,279RhodeIslandGreening,28,30,54,54,68,196RibstonPippin,30,54,54Rome,30,55,55RoxburyRusset,15,19,28,30,55,55,196SierraBeauty,30,56,56,196,283StaymanWinesap,30,57,57,196Suncrisp,30,58,58

fishPan-SearedSalmonwithCider-GlazedOnions,148

flavorofapplesstorageand,61terroirand,62

Flory,David,59flour,about,70foodmill,72foodprocessor,makingpiecrustin,67Foxwhelpapple,150Franklin,Benjamin,50Frasier,Clark,278Free-FormApple-Pear-CranberryTart,208–10,209FrenchtoastBakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbTopping,36,156–57,285

freshnessofapples,61frozenapplepie,aboutandsourcefor,285

frozendesserts.Seeicecream;sorbetFujiapple,28,30,39,39,183,184

Gaier,Mark,278Galaapple,25,28,30,39,39,183,184geneticengineering,25,75.Seealsohorticulturegeneticsofapples,24–25.SeealsohorticultureGilson,Will,78gingerAppleCider–BrinedTurkeywithApplejack-SageGravy,123–24MulledAppleCider,154,276SweetPotato,Apple,andGingerSoup,26,85–86

GingerGoldapple,28,30,40,40,267gingersnapsApple-GingersnapIceCream,264–65

goatcheeseBacon-WrappedDateswithCurriedAppleHash,26,78–79

GoldenDeliciousapple,28,30,40,40,183,184,225GoldenRussetapple,30,41,41Goldrushapple,30,41,41Goodricke,Henry,54GorgonzolacheeseSquashStuffedwithApples,Pancetta,andWalnuts,114–15

Gorgonzoladolceabout,92EndiveSaladwithApples,Walnuts,andGorgonzola,92

GoudacheeseAppleandMustardGrilledCheeseSandwiches,106,107–8,284

grafting.SeehorticulturegrahamcrackersSaltedCaramelAppleswithCinnamonGrahamCrackerCrumbs,262–63

Grandma’sAppleCrisp,14,185–86,187,189GrannySmithapple,28,30,42,42,68,183grapesChickenWaldorfSalad,96–97

gratinSquashandAppleGratin,100,101–2

GravensteinApple-RaspberryTart,28,42,43,52,205–7,206Gravensteinapple,30,42,42,62,196gravyApplejack-SageGravy,123,125

GreenAppleSauvignonBlancSorbet,266,284grenadinesyrupJackRose,277,284

Grimes,Thomas,43GrimesGoldenapple,20,30,43,43GruyèrecheeseAcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple,112–13AppleandMustardGrilledCheeseSandwiches,106,107–8,284SquashandAppleGratin,100,101–2

Haedrich,Ken,205half-and-halfAppleBreadPuddingwithSaltedCaramelSauce,233–34

hardcider.Seecider,hardHarvey,Frances“Ginger”andClyde,40Hasbrouck,Jonathan,46HavarticheeseAppleandMustardGrilledCheeseSandwiches,106,107–8,284

hazelnutsBakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbTopping,36,156–57,285

heirloomapples,76,150–52,224Hemingway,Ernest,277Hensley,Tim,21HiddenRoseapple,30,43,43,119historyoftheapple,17–22HolidayApple-RaisinChallah,178,179–80honeyApple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa,26,28,274Apple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad,94,95AppleChipswithSpicedYogurtDip,84Autumn“Coleslaw”withDates,Apples,andPecans,93ChickenWaldorfSalad,96–97EndiveSaladwithApples,Walnuts,andGorgonzola,92

HolidayApple-RaisinChallah,178,179–80Spinach,Apple,PickledOnion,andBaconSaladwithCiderVinaigrette,98QuickBread-and-ButterApplePickles,106,270–72,271

Honeycrispapple,30,44,44,62,183horsd’oeuvres.Seestartershorticulturebreedingapples,76columnarapples,76geneticengineering,25,75geneticsofapples,24–25grafting,18,20,25,74–75,90–91hybridizationofapples,17–18,20–21,24–25terroir,62

Hough,Fred,58Howlett,Freeman,49Hubbell,Sue,24Hudson’sGoldenGemapple,30,44,44HudsonWholesaleNurseries,44hybridizationofapples.Seehorticulture

icecreamApple-GingersnapIceCream,264–65

Idaredapple,30,45,45,68ingredients.Seealsospecificingredientsabout,69–70measuring,65–66

IrishSodaBreadwithApplesandCurrants,177

JackRose,277,284Jackson,Andrew,33jalapeñosApple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa,26,28,274BraisedBrisketwithApplesandHardCider,126–27

Jazzapple,22,25,29,30,45,45,184Jefferson,Thomas,38JohnnyAppleseed(JohnChapman),20,43,280Jonagoldapple,30,46,46,75,183,196

Jonamacapple,75Jonathanapple,30,46,46

kashaAcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple,112–13

Keepsakeapple,30,47,47,223KentuckyAppleStackCake—ModernVersion,248–49KentuckyAppleStackCake—TraditionalVersion,248,250,251–52Kidd,J.H.,39Kimzey,Louis,43KingDavidapple,20KingofthePippinsapple.SeeReinedesReinetteappleKingstonBlackapple,150koshersalt,about,70

LadyAppleapple,30,47,47largeapples,size,weight,andyieldof,69,70latkesSweetPotato–AppleLatkes,116,117–18

lemonApple-PearCobblerwithLemon-CornmealBiscuits,212–13AppleTeaCakewithLemonGlaze,240–43,241,242

limejuiceApple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa,26,28,274JackRose,277,284

livewoodgrafting,90LowfatGingerbreadApplesauceCake,257–58

Macoun,W.T.,48Macounapple,28,30,48,48,75MaidenBlushapple,20MammothBlacktwigapple.SeeBlackTwigapplemandolineslicer,72maplesyrupApplePandowdy,221–22Crêpes Filled with Caramelized Apples and Served with Maple Crème

Fraîche,38,244,245–46,247CaramelizedApples,233,245,247

RusticAppleBrownBetty,42,211Marlboroapple,226–27MarlboroughPie,41,201–2matzomealSweetPotato–AppleLatkes,116,117–18

May,Robert,201McDonald’s,76McIntosh,Alan,48McIntosh,John,48McIntoshapple,28,30,48,48,76McKinstry,Pam,174McNaryandGainesCompany,51measuringingredients,65–66Medailled’Orapple,150mediumapples,size,weight,andyieldof,69,70melonballer,72Melroseapple,30,49,49,149Mennell,WilfriedandSally,31MichiganHardCiderClub,152microplane,72milk.Seealsoevaporatedmilk;sweetenedcondensedmilkAppleClafoutis,53,237Apple-GingersnapIceCream,264–65BakedAppleFrenchToastwithHazelnutCrumbTopping,36,156–57,285BakedAppleOatmealPudding,163CinnamonRicePuddingwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote,235,236Crêpes Filled with Caramelized Apples and Served with Maple Crème

Fraîche,38,244,245–46,247DutchBaby,38,158,159–61,160,285SaltedCaramelAppleswithCinnamonGrahamCrackerCrumbs,262–63Sausage,Apple,andCheddarStrata,175–76

mintApple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa,26,28,274

mixingcakes,68molassesAppleGingerbreadUpside-DownCake,253–54LowfatGingerbreadApplesauceCake,257–58

Moran,O.,34MorningGloryMuffins,40,174muffinsApplePumpkinWalnutMuffins,173MorningGloryMuffins,40,174

Mullane,BeckyandJim,120–21MulledAppleCider,154,276Mullins,Andrew,40Mullins’YellowSeedlingapple.SeeGoldenDeliciousapplemushroomsAcornSquashStuffedwithKashaandApple,112–13

mustardapple,aboutandsourcefor,284AppleandMustardGrilledCheeseSandwiches,106,107–8,284Cider-BrinedPorkChopswithMustardPanSauce,99,142–43

Mutsuapple,30,49,49

naturalwaxcoating,61Newell,LuckyandAudrey,43NewtownPippinapple,15,30,50,50,68,196NewYorkStateAgriculturalExperimentStation(NYSAES),36,37,46,48,57,

74–77non-browningapples,30NorthernSpyapple,15,28,30,50,50,68,196NorthwestCiderSociety,152nuts.Seespecifictypesofnut

oatsBakedAppleOatmealPudding,163Oatmeal-ApplePancakes,39,161–62Oatmeal-ToppedAppleCrisp,187–88,197

OhioAgriculturalExperimentStation,49oldtimecider.com,152onions.SeealsoredonionsApple,Cheddar,andCaramelizedOnionPastryPuffs,83BraisedBrisketwithApplesandHardCider,126–27Sausage,Apple,andCheddarStrata,175–76

Opalescentapple,30,51,51orangesMulledAppleCider,154,276Orange-ScentedSpicedApplesauce,269

OutonaLimb,224OvernightAppleButter,251,275

pancakesDutchBaby,38,158,159–61,160,285Oatmeal-ApplePancakes,39,161–62SweetPotato–AppleLatkes,116,117–18

pancettaSquashStuffedwithApples,Pancetta,andWalnuts,114–15

pandowdyApplePandowdy,221–22

Pan-SearedSalmonwithCider-GlazedOnions,148ParmesancheeseAppleRisotto(RisottoalleMelle),104–5

parsnipsCider-GlazedRootVegetables,99,144,146Parsnip-ApplePuree,103

pastrypuffsApple,Cheddar,andCaramelizedOnionPastryPuffs,83

pastryrollsWilliamsburgWrapples,216,217–18

Pearmainapple,19pearsApple-PearCobblerwithLemon-CornmealBiscuits,212–13Free-FormApple-Pear-CranberryTart,208–10,209

pecansApplePiewithCrumbTopping,197–98Autumn“Coleslaw”withDates,Apples,andPecans,93BakedAppleOatmealPudding,163ButtermilkAppleBuckle,214–15Cider-BakedApples,228,229Oatmeal-ToppedAppleCrisp,187–88,197TennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple,56,132–33

peelingapples,64,64Pepperl,Roger,183,184persimmonsApple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad,94,95

picklesQuickBread-and-ButterApplePickles,106,270–72,271

pieApplePiewithCrumbTopping,197–98bestapplesfor,196BlueRibbonDeep-DishApplePie,192,193–96,195DeerfieldPie,201Double-CrustApplePie,190–91frozen,aboutandsourcefor,285MarlboroughPie,41,201–2PorkandApplePiewithCheddar-SageCrust,2,51,128,129–31,130SkilletApplePie,199–200SwedishApplePie,38,189

piecrustmakingbyhand,66–67makinginfoodprocessor,67rollingout,67

piecrustbag,67Piñataapple,30,51,51,184pineappleMorningGloryMuffins,40,174

PinkLadyapple,22,28,29,30,52,52,183,184,292PinkPearlapple,30,52,52,279Pinovaapple.SeePiñataapplePippinapple,19pistachiosApple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad,94,95Applesauce-PistachioBundtCakewithCiderGlaze,255–56

pomegranateseedsApple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad,94,95

Pommed’Api,19.SeealsoLadyAppleapplePommeGris(PommeGrise)apple,30,53,53pork.Seealsobacon;pancetta;sausage

Apple andChestnut–Stuffed Pork LoinwithCider Sauce, 99,144, 145–47,146

Cider-BraisedPorkwithCalvadosandPrunes,140–41,228Cider-BrinedPorkChopswithMustardPanSauce,99,142–43PorkandApplePiewithCheddar-SageCrust,2,51,128,129–31,130

potatopancakesSweetPotato–AppleLatkes,116,117–18

poultry.SeespecifictypesofpoultryPovertyLaneOrchards,35,150–52PreservationOrchards,224–27protectivecoatings,61prunesCider-BraisedPorkwithCalvadosandPrunes,140–41,228

pudding.SeealsobreadpuddingBakedAppleOatmealPudding,163CinnamonRicePuddingwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote,235,236

puffpastryApple,Cheddar,andCaramelizedOnionPastryPuffs,83TarteTatin,203–4

pumpkinApplePumpkinWalnutMuffins,173PumpkinandAppleCustard,111

PurdueUniversityHorticulturalResearchFarm,41pureeParsnip-ApplePuree,103

Quagliaroli,Mary,185quercetin,75QuickBread-and-ButterApplePickles,106,270–72,271

raisinsBakedAppleOatmealPudding,163HolidayApple-RaisinChallah,178,179–80

raspberriesGravensteinApple-RaspberryTart,28,42,43,52,205–7,206

RedAppleFarm,90–91redcabbage

Autumn“Coleslaw”withDates,Apples,andPecans,93SausagewithBraisedCabbageandApples,36,137

RedDeliciousapple,29,183–84,225redgrapesChickenWaldorfSalad,96–97

redonionsPan-SearedSalmonwithCider-GlazedOnions,148SausageandRedOnionSandwich,135–36SausagewithBraisedCabbageandApples,36,137Spinach,Apple,PickledOnion,andBaconSaladwithCiderVinaigrette,98

redwineApple,Date,andAlmondCharoset,273

ReinedesReinetteapple,30,53,53relishApple,Date,andAlmondCharoset,273QuickBread-and-ButterApplePickles,106,270–72,271

Rennetapple,19RhodeIslandGreeningapple,28,30,54,54,68,196RibstonPippinapple,30,54,54riceAppleRisotto(RisottoalleMelle),104–5CinnamonRicePuddingwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote,235,236

Rick,Phillip,46Reinetteapple,19risottoAppleRisotto(RisottoalleMelle),104–5

rollingoutpiecrust,67Romeapple,30,55,55RomeBeautyapple.SeeRomeapplerootvegetablesCider-GlazedRootVegetables,99,144,146

Rose,Al,90,91RoxburyRussetapple,15,19,28,30,55,55,196rumAppleDumplingswithCider-RumSauce,231–32

RusticAppleBrownBetty,42,211RutgersUniversityHorticulturalResearchFarm,58

saladsApple,Pistachio,Persimmon,andPomegranateSalad,94,95applevarietiesfor,30Autumn“Coleslaw”withDates,Apples,andPecans,93ChickenWaldorfSalad,96–97DuckPanzanellawithApplesandThyme,51,138–39EndiveSaladwithApples,Walnuts,andGorgonzola,92Spinach,Apple,PickledOnion,andBaconSaladwithCiderVinaigrette,98

salmonPan-SearedSalmonwithCider-GlazedOnions,148

salsaApple,Cucumber,Lime,andMintSalsa,26,28,274

salt,about,70SaltedCaramelAppleswithCinnamonGrahamCrackerCrumbs,262–63sandwichesAppleandMustardGrilledCheeseSandwiches,106,107–8,284SausageandRedOnionSandwich,135–36

sausageSausageandRedOnionSandwich,135–36Sausage,Apple,andCheddarStrata,175–76SausagewithBraisedCabbageandApples,36,137TennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple,56,132–33

savorypiePorkandApplePiewithCheddar-SageCrust,2,51,128,129–31,130

sconesAppleCranberryScones,167

ScottFarm,60Seek-No-Furtherapple.SeeWestfieldSeek-No-FurtherappleSenecaRemickfarm,226shallotsCider-BraisedPorkwithCalvadosandPrunes,140–41,228SweetPotato–AppleLatkes,116,117–18

shellaccoating,61shinyversuscloudyapples,61SierraBeautyapple,30,56,56,196,283SimpleAppleNutCake,239Simpson,Aemilius,21

sizesofapples,69–70SkilletApplePie,199–200slicingapples,65smallapples,size,weight,andyieldof,69,70SmartFreshtechnology(1-methylcyclopropene),61Smith,John,19SnowAppleapple.SeeFameuseappleSomersetRedstreakapple,150Sonataapple.SeePiñataapplesorbet,appleaboutandsourcefor,284GreenAppleSauvignonBlancSorbet,266,284

soupsChestnutSoupwithBacon,88ChestnutSoupwithSpicedApple-CranberryCompote,87–88,236SweetPotato,Apple,andGingerSoup,26,85–86

sourcesforapples,282forapplecider,286–89forappleproducts,283–85

Southern-StyleCornbread,132,134SparklingBurgundyapple,120,122speciesofapples,17Spencerapple,30,56,56,181SpicedApple-CranberryCompote,57,87,235,236SpicedAppleCupcakeswithCinnamonCreamCheeseFrosting,259–60,261spicedapples,aboutandsourcefor,285Spigoldapple,30,57,57spinachSausageandRedOnionSandwich,135–36Spinach,Apple,PickledOnion,andBaconSaladwithCiderVinaigrette,98

Spitzenburgapple,25squash.Seeacornsquash;butternutsquashSquashandAppleGratin,100,101–2SquashStuffedwithApples,Pancetta,andWalnuts,114–15StarkBro’sNurseries,40starters

Apple,Cheddar,andCaramelizedOnionPastryPuffs,83AppleChipswithSpicedYogurtDip,84Bacon-WrappedDateswithCurriedAppleHash,26,78–79ChickenLiverPâtéwithApple,80,81–82

Stayman,J.,57Staymanapple.SeeStaymanWinesapappleStaymanWinesapapple,30,57,57,196StemiltGrowers,51,183,184storingapples,15,68controlledatmospherestorage(CA)for,61SmartFreshtechnology(1-methylcyclopropene)for,61

stoutWelshRarebitwithApples,109–10

strataSausage,Apple,andCheddarStrata,175–76

sugarconcentration,75Suncrispapple,30,58,58SuperChillyFarm,224Sussman,Adeena,135,171SwedishApplePie,38,189SweeTangoapple,25,30,58,58sweetenedcondensedmilkSaltedCaramelAppleswithCinnamonGrahamCrackerCrumbs,262–63

sweetpieApplePiewithCrumbTopping,197–98BlueRibbonDeep-DishApplePie,192,193–96,195DeerfieldPie,201Double-CrustApplePie,190–91MarlboroughPie,41,201–2SkilletApplePie,199–200SwedishApplePie,38,189

SweetPotato,Apple,andGingerSoup,26,85–86SweetPotato–AppleLatkes,116,117–18

tablesalt,about,70tartsFree-FormApple-Pear-CranberryTart,208–10,209

GravensteinApple-RaspberryTart,28,42,43,52,205–7,206TarteTatin,203–4

TemperanceMovementandcider,21tender-sweetapples,26,28,30Ambrosia,30,31,31Cox’sOrangePippin,30,37,37,184Fameuse,30,38,38,224Fuji,28,30,39,39,183,184Gala,25,28,30,39,39,183,184Hudson’sGoldenGem,30,44,44PommeGris,30,53,53Spencer,30,56,56,181

tender-tartapples,26,28,30BlackTwig,30,33,33Cortland,28,30,36,36,73,75Empire,30,37,37,75Jonathan,30,46,46LadyApple,30,47,47Macoun,28,30,48,48,75McIntosh,28,30,48,48,76WestfieldSeek-No-Further,30,59,59

TennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple,56,132–33terroir,62.SeealsohorticultureThomas,Anna,161Thoreau,HenryDavid,21TohokuResearchStation,39TolmanSweetapple,226Toole,Rankin,33tools,71–72TropicSweetapple,14Tschirsky,Oscar,96turkeyAppleCider–BrinedTurkeywithApplejack-SageGravy,123–24

UniversityofIdahoAgriculturalExperimentStation,45UniversityofMinnesotaHorticulturalResearchCenter,44,47,58,76–77

Valentinefarm,33vanderGoes,Hugo,19varieties of apple, 27–60.Seealso firm-sweet apples; firm-tart apples; tender-

sweetapples;tender-tartapples;specificvarietiesofapplecheatsheet,30finding,69firm-sweet,26,28,30,196firm-tart,26,28,30,196heirloom,76,150–52,224in-depthguide,31–60substituting,69tender-sweet,26,28,30tender-tart,26,28,30

VermontAppleCiderDonuts,71,153–55,154vinaigretteforEndiveSaladwithApples,Walnuts,andGorgonzola,92forSpinach,Apple,PickledOnion,andBaconSaladwithCiderVinaigrette,

98VintageVirginiaApples,60volumemeasurement,65–66

walnutsAppleBrownies,40,238ApplePumpkinWalnutMuffins,173ChickenWaldorfSalad,96–97EndiveSaladwithApples,Walnuts,andGorgonzola,92MorningGloryMuffins,40,174RusticAppleBrownBetty,42,211SimpleAppleNutCake,239SquashStuffedwithApples,Pancetta,andWalnuts,114–15TennesseeCornbreadDressingwithSausageandApple,56,132–33

WashingtonAppleCommission,182,184Washingtonstateapples,22,182–84Watson,Ben,62waxcoatings,61weightmeasurement,66weightofapples,69,70

WelshRarebitwithApples,109–10WestfieldSeek-No-Furtherapple,30,59,59whitewineAppleRisotto(RisottoalleMelle),104–5GreenAppleSauvignonBlancSorbet,266,284

Wicksonapple,224WilliamsburgWrapples,216,217–18wine.Seeredwine;whitewineWinterBananaapple,15,30,59,59Wood,Stephen,150,151–52Woodpeckerapple.SeeBaldwinappleWood’sCiderMill,153

yogurtAppleChipswithSpicedYogurtDip,84ChickenWaldorfSalad,96–97

Young,JamesWebb,122

ZabergauReinetteapple,30,60,60,89

ANOTEABOUTTHEAUTHOR

Amy Traverso grew up picking apples and eating apple crisp in northernConnecticut. A graduate of SmithCollege,Amy has lived in California,NewMexico,andaroundNewEngland,andwherevershehasgone,shehasbeenastudentof the localappleculture.FormerlyafoodeditoratBostonandSunsetmagazines,she isnowaseniorfoodandhomeeditoratYankeemagazine.Shelives inBrookline,Massachusetts,withherhusband,Scott, andson,Max.HerfavoriteapplesareCalvilleBlancd’HiverandPinkPearl.

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