Personal Care - SCS Formulate

52
Personal Care Personal Care

Transcript of Personal Care - SCS Formulate

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Personal CarePersonal Care

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The Grolman Group

The Grolman Group operates an international specialty ingredients distribution

business. It is composed of individual local sales offices based in all European

countries, each supported by technically trained sales staff, customer service teams

and local warehousing.

The Grolman Group, run by the fifth generation of the Grolman family, has been

privately owned since it was established in 1855. The key to its success has been the

dedication and commitment to building an efficient customer-focused organisation

where customers’ needs are an essential driving force.

Grolman. Quality since 1855.

www.grolman-personalcare.com

Grolman1855

International Distribution

&

®

F o c u s e d. I n n o v a t i v e. R e s p o n s i v e .

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Branch Offices & Laboratories

24 Branch Offices

2 Laboratories Personal Care & Pharma

3 Laboratories Paint & Coatings

3 Laboratories Plastics & Rubber

International Distribution of Specialty Ingredients

[email protected]

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Table of Contents

BC Mild Additives – Surfactants 10

BC Mild Additives – Emulsifiers 12

Chemipol Classical and Innovative Preservatives 14

CR&D Natural-Based Active Ingredients 16

Schlenk Metallic Effect Pigments 30

Temix Complex Esters 32

Temix Emulsifiers and Mild Surfactants 34

Aqdot Innovative Emulsifiers 35

Basel Silicone Elastomers and Fluoro Silicones 36

Corel Performance Thickeners 38

Mondo Minerals Talc 39

Woosung Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid 40

Argenol Silver for Antimicrobial Activity 41

Cales de Llierca Precipitated Calcium Carbonate 42

Orion Iron Blue Pigment 43

Radiant/Sterling Fluorescent and Organic Pigments 44

Grolman (rimana) Iron Oxides 45

Sekisui Polyvinyl Alcohol & VA Copolymers 46

Sigachi Microcrystalline Cellulose 47

Venator Ultramarine and Manganese Violet Pigments 48

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Application

Supplier Products Description Skin

Car

e

Dec

orat

ive

Cos

met

ics

Hai

r C

are

Toile

trie

s

Aqdot AqStar Innovative Emulsifiers ■ ■ ■ ■

Argenol Silver range Antimicrobial Agents ■ ■

Basel Puresil, BSG Silicone Elastomers and Fluoro Silicones ■ ■

BC Beautycare Mild Surfactants ■ ■ ■

BC Beautyderm Emulsifiers ■ ■ ■

Cales de Llierca Calprec Precipitated Calcium Carbonate ■ ■ ■ ■

Chemipol Biopol Classical Preservatives ■ ■ ■ ■

Chemipol Sensicare Innovative Preservatives ■ ■ ■ ■

Corel Acrypol Acrylate Polymer Thickeners ■ ■ ■ ■

Corel Acryset Hair Fixative Agents ■ ■ ■ ■

CR&D Natural-Based Active Ingredients Anti-Ageing, Anti-Cellulite, Anti-Pollution, Anti-Stretch Marks, Moisturising, Anti-Inflammation ■ ■ ■ ■

Grolman rimana iox Iron Oxides ■ ■

Mondo Minerals Mondana Talc ■ ■

Orion Vossen-Blau Iron Blue ■

Radiant/Sterling Dermaglo Fluorescent Colorants ■

Schlenk Alegrace Metallic Effect Pigments ■

Sekisui Selvol Polyvinyl Alcohol and Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer Derivates ■ ■ ■

Sigachi Cosmocel Microcrystalline Celulose ■ ■ ■ ■

Temix Alcoltex Fatty Alcohol ■ ■ ■ ■

Temix Etowax Blend with Fatty Alcohol ■ ■

Temix Temest Classical and Complex Esters ■ ■ ■ ■

Temix Temcare Mild Surfactants ■ ■ ■

Venator Manganese Violet Manganese Violet (CI 77742) ■ ■

Venator Ultramarines Ultramarine Blue, Violet and Pink (CI 77007) ■ ■

Woosung Hyalpol Hyaluronic Polymers ■ ■ ■ ■

Ingredient Overview

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Supplier Product Name INCI Name Properties

CR&D AFA-GS Glycerin, Aqua, Sucrose, Aphanizomenon Flos Aquae (AFA) Powder

Multifunctional activityAnti-pollution activity (elimination of heavy metals)Anti-inflammatory activityAnti-oxidant activityDNA protection

CR&D Carnoxyn Aqua, Carnitine Fumarate, Sodium Pyruvate, Succinic Acid, Citric Acid

Anti-cellulite activity (stimulates the Krebs cycle process)

CR&D Glycacid Eco Glycerin, Hydrolysed Glycosaminoglycans Moisturising activityInnovative technology based on Hydrolised GlycosaminoglycansIncreases the speed and the penetration of the active ingredient into the skin)

CR&D Glycohyal LW Glycerin, Hydrolysed Glycosaminoglycans, Hyaluronic Acid Anti-ageing activity (anti-wrinkles, improve skin elasticity) Moisturising activityFast and efficient penetration of the active ingredient into the skin

CR&D Glycosnail VEG Aqua, Glycoprotein, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Copper Gluconate, Sodium PCA

Anti-stretch mark activity

CR&D Glycoxantine Glycerin, Aqua, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Caffein, Theophyllin, Theobromin

Anti-cellulite activity (reduces the thigh circumference and the adipose tissue thickness)Fast and efficient penetration of the active ingredient into the skin

CR&D Hyalomarine Aqua, Glycerin, Macrocristys Pyryfera Extract, Hyaluonic Acid Lifting effect

CR&D Hydrafeel-3 Polyglyceryl-3 PCA Skin MoisturisingSkin EmollientHair ProtectantHair Colour ProtectantHair Conditioner

CR&D Tarchoplus Dicaprylyl Ether, Tarchonantus Camphoratus Oil, Helichrysum Angustifolium Flower Extract

Sports performance enhancerRepairingAnti-oedemaSoothing

Innovation Corner – Active Ingredients

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Description Supplier Product Name INCI Name Properties

Antimicrobial Agents

Argenol Metallic Silver Powder – W

Silver Antimicrobial activityNon-irritatingAluminium freeMetallic silver has a long lasting effect

Antimicrobial Agents

Argenol Silver Citrate Solution Silver Citrate, Citric Acid Antimicrobial activityNon-irritatingAluminium freePrevents the formation of unpleasant odoursReplaces triclosanIonic silver is fast acting

Emollients Temix Temest 125 LT C12-15 Alkyl Lactate Reduces tackiness and greasinessHigh conditioningBrings viscosity to surfactant systems

Emollients Temix Temest J05 Di Ethylhexyl Adipate Gives matt effectVery stable regarding oxidationVery good solubilisation of UV filters and pigments

Emollients Temix Temest J30 Di Ethylhexyl Sebacate Brings shineVery stable regarding oxidationVery good solubilisation of UV filters and pigments

Emollients Temix Temest T20 Coco Caprylate/Caprate Green solution for silicon oil replacement

Emulsifiers/Surfactants

Aqdot Aq Star M1 Sodium Starch Octenyl Succinate, Curcubiturils

O/W emulsionInnovation technology: Innovative Aq Bit technology

Emulsifiers/Surfactants

BC Beautycare OL Sodium Oliveamphoacetate Mild surfactantReduces irritation caused by aggressive surfactantsCosmos certified

Emulsifiers/Surfactants

BC Beautyderm HP Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

Moisturiser O/W emulsifier Easy to use in only one phaseWide range of viscosity possibleCosmos certified

Emulsifiers/Surfactants

BC Beautyderm K10 Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol

O/W emulsifier Cosmos certifiedFresh and light textureExcellent spreading power

Emulsifiers/Surfactants

BC Beautyderm K9 Sorbitan Olivate W/O emulsifier Fresh and light textureCosmos certified

Emulsifiers/Surfactants

BC Beautyderm WW Olive Oil PEG-7 Ester, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Oleate

O/W emulsifier Natural originCold processDoes not irritate skin or eyes

Emulsifiers/Surfactants

Temix Temcare CG Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Mild surfactantSmooth and soft feelingImproves hair condition

Emulsifiers/Surfactants

Temix Temcare GLY Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Mild surfactantGlycine derivateCreamy foamLeaves fresh feeling

Emulsifiers/Surfactants

Temix Temcare SG Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Anionic O/W emulsifierForms lamellar liquid crystal emulsionsCold or hot process

Hyaluronic Polymer

Woosung Hyalpol Moisture Plus Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer Adsorbs to the skinMoisturising and antioxidant propertiesExcellent after-feel

Innovation Corner – Additives

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Description Supplier Product Name INCI Name Properties

Pigments – Metallic

Schlenk Alegrace Aurous 02-01

CI 77491, Silica, CI 77000 Excellent opacityCan be mixed with pigments to achieve a large range of gold shadeVery stable colour (no oxidation)Homogeneous colourPossible to achieve matt or shiny effect

Preservatives Chemipol Sensicare C 3300 Benzyl Alcohol Glyceryl Laurate Booster technologyReliable efficacy compared to classical preservativesLow potential of sensitisationOption for different marketing requirementsCosmos approved

Preservatives Chemipol Sensicare FP 1 Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Laurate, Propylene Glycol

Non-listed preservativesBooster technologyEffective against bacteria and fungiFor rinse-off, emulsions and lotionsNo side effects on final formulations

Preservatives Chemipol Sensicare FP 2 Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Glyceryl Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol

Non-listed preservativesBooster technologyEffective against bacteria and fungiFor rinse-off, emulsions and lotionsNo side effects on final formulations

Preservatives Chemipol Sensicare NAT Citrus Grandis Peel Extract, Capsaicin, Naringenin, Hesperidin, Citrus Reticulate Peel Extract, Vegetal Glycerine Ascorbic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid

Non-listed preservativesCosmos certified, NatrueBooster technologyEffective against bacteria and fungiFor rinse-off, emulsions and lotionsNo side effects on final formulations

Silicones Basel Puresil-CHM01 Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl DimethiconeCrosspolymer

Enhances skin feelingMany applications: skin care, hair care, sun care, make-up

Silicones Basel SF-30 Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone Extraordinary skin feelingOil, water repellentLong-lasting effectHeat resistance

Thickeners and/or Stabilisers

Corel Acrypol ET 28 Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer

Easy to disperseLow percentage needed to obtain a good viscosityCompatible with surfactant systems and emulsionsEconomical

Thickeners and/or Stabilisers

Corel Acryset Superhold II Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer Hair fixative agentEfficient thickener

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Mild Additives – Surfactants

BC Cosmetic and Food is a company created by real experts, both in the food and cosmetics sector,

and thanks to the long experience and passion of its technicians, BC can offer a solution for any type

of product that the customer intends to develop or improve.

In the cosmetics sector, innovation and constant research give BC an original, dynamic and very

proactive impact. High-performance ingredients give the customer the opportunity to experiment in

the creativity of any type of formulation.

CR&D is a subsidiary of BC, which allows it to dedicate a space to research.

Product INCI Name Use Level Form

Beautycare AR Sodium Arganamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid

Beautycare BA Sodium Babassuamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid

Beautycare CB Sodium Cocoabutteramphoacetate 1-10% Paste

Beautycare CT Sodium Cottonseedamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid

Beautycare KT Sodium Sheabutteramphoacetate 1-10% Liquid

Beautycare MB Sodium Mangoamphoacetate 1-10% Paste

Beautycare OL Sodium Oliveamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid

Beautycare RC Sodium Ricebranamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid

Beautycare SA Sodium Sweetalmondamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid

Beautycare SE Sodium Sesamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid

Beautycare SF Sodium Sunflowerseedamphoacetate 1-10% Liquid

BeautyCare Range BeautyCare are amphoacetates directly derived

from triglycerides of oils and/or butters, which

make them extraordinarily delicate and rich in these

nutrients and emollients characteristic of the oils

and/or butters of origin. They have been designed

for use in a wide range of skin-friendly detergent

systems. They have an excellent compatibility with

many surfactants, particularly indicated for very

delicate skins. BeautyCare can be formulated in a

very wide pH range from 3 to 10.

■ Mild surfactant

■ Reduce irritation caused by aggressive surfactants

■ Cosmos approved

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Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form

Beautyolea S3 Olive Oil PEG-7 esters Secondary surfactantSolubilising propertiesHLB: 11 – Co-emulsifier in O/W system

1-5% Liquid100% pure content

Beautyolea S4 Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate Primary/Secondary surfactantDense and creamy foam

1-30% Liquid36% pure content

Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form

Beautygreen TGA

Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate, Aqua, Sodium Sesamphoacetate

Mild cleansing baseTransparentCold processGood viscosity in final product

1-30% Liquid36% pure content

Beautyolea Range The emollient and greasing properties of olive oil enhance the sensation of comfort, which is highly appreciated

in shampoos, toiletries and personal care formulations. It reduces the irritating action of the surfactant system

compounds and does not influence the foaming properties of other surfactants.

■ Mild surfactant

■ Derived from pure Italian olive oil

■ Not irritant for skin/eyes

Beautygreen TGA Beautygreen TGA is an exceptionally mild cleansing base that is very easy to use in different percentages and

gives a feeling of softness to the hair and skin.

■ Ready to use mild cleansing base

■ 100% natural origin

■ PEG free

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Mild Additives – Emulsifiers

Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form

Beautyderm HP Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

Excellent emulsifying powerStable with a wide pH range and temperatureStable in the presence of electrolytesForm emulsions with very small liquid-crystalline droplets (better stability of the emulsion)

2-8% Solid flakes

Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form

Beautyderm HP Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol

Stable with a wide pH range and temperatureLiquid crystalline phaseCreate a hydrophobic film on the surface

3-6% Solid flakes

Beautyderm HP Beautyderm HP is a new generation of emulsifier. It is able to emulsify oils of different polarity and viscosity,

even if present in high percentage. Beautyderm HP can be introduced into emulsions with a very wide range

of viscosity, from milk to cream with a very solid consistency, varying only in the composition of the oily phase.

Beautyderm HP improves skin hydration, thanks to the Sodium PCA component of NMF (Natural Moisturising

Factor) and obtained by the action of skin enzymes (protease) with Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate.

■ Moisturiser

■ O/W emulsifier

■ Easy to use in only one phase

■ Wide range of viscosity possible

■ Cosmos approved

Beautyderm K10 Beautyderm K10 is derived from olive oil. It is able to form particularly fresh and light O/W emulsions, with a

velvety feel and enriched with the functional properties of Italian olive oil.

With Beautyderm K10 it is possible to obtain stable emulsions that offer emollient properties and a pleasant

feeling of softness and silkiness even when they contain large quantities of oily substances.

■ O/W emulsifier

■ Cosmos approved

■ Fresh and light texture

■ Excellent spreading power

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Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form

Beautyderm HP Sorbitan Olivate Stable with a wide temperature range Helps disperse UV filters

3-6% Solid flakes

Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form

Beautyderm WW Olive Oil PEG-7 Ester, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Polyglyceryl 3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Oleate

Light textureMake-up remover and skin cleaning activity

0.5-10% Liquid

Beautyderm K9 Beautyderm K9 allows the production of W/O emulsions that are glossy, creamy and light. These emulsions are

easy to spread, have a smooth feel and are easily absorbed.

The thickening of the aqueous phase can be obtained with this emulsifier. In fact, it is able to form an

organised reticular structure that replaces waxy ingredients. The texture obtained is more in line with modern

concepts of emulsions since it allows the development of light and fresh textures.

■ W/O emulsifier

■ Fresh and light texture

■ Cosmos approved

Beautyderm WW Beautyderm WW is a new generation cold emulsifier. It is derived from natural raw materials such as olive oil.

Beautyderm WW is suitable for applications with light textures, such as the ones used in wet-wipes. It also

offers excellent skin tolerance, which makes Beautyderm WW particularly useful in cosmetic formulations for

sensitive skin and babies. It has multifunctional benefits of hydration and moisture retention of the skin thanks

to the presence of ricinoleate and stearate esters.

■ O/W emulsifier

■ Natural origin

■ Cold process

■ Not irritant for skin and eyes

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Product INCI Name Characteristics Recommended dosage Application

Sensicare® FP 1 Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Laurate

Multifunctional activity: antioxidant, skin conditioning, humectantWide pH range (<10)High temperature (<80°C)

1-2% Baby Care, Facial Care, Eye Contour, Oral Care, Wet Wipes, Make-Up, Clear Cosmetics

Sensicare® FP 2 Propylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Laurate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Multifunctional activity: skin conditioning, humectantWide pH range (<8)High temperature (<90°C)

1-2% Baby Care, Facial Care, Wet Wipes, Make-Up, Clear Cosmetics, Emulsions

Sensicare® NAT Glycerin, Citrus Species Peel Extract, Naringenin, Ascorbic Acid, Lactic acid, Citric Acid

Cosmos certified – NatrueMultifunctional activity: skin conditioning, antioxidant, humectant, parfumWide pH range (<10)High temperature (<80°C)

1-1.5% Baby Care, Facial Care, Wet Wipes, Make-Up

Classical and Innovative Preservatives

In 1979 a group of professionals from the chemical industry established Chemipol S.A. in order to

contribute their experience to the development of sectors that are vital for human progress. Today,

Chemipol has over 30 years of experience in microbiology, applicable to personal care but also in

chemicals and food industry. They supply a wide range of preservatives and provide innovative

technologies with highly effective products and experts support services.

Sensicare® FP and Sensicare® NATThe Sensicare® FP and NAT ranges are preservative-

free ranges. Behind these ranges, extensive R&D

work has been carried out which has resulted in a

perfect combination of ingredients that together

prevent the proliferation of microorganisms.

The performance of these ranges has been

demonstrated by successful challenge-tests.

■ Non-listed preservatives

■ Booster technology

■ Effective against bacteria and fungi

■ For rinse-off, emulsions and lotions

■ No side effects on final formulations

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Product INCI Name Characteristics Recommended dosage Application

Sensicare® C 1000 Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Laurate

pH independentCost effective

0.7-1.1%

Hair CareToiletriesSkin CareWet Wipes

Sensicare® C 1060 Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Laurate, Piroctone Olamine

Effective against bacteria and fungiLow dosageCost effective

0.4-0.8%

Sensicare® C 3300 Benzyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Laurate

Cosmos certifiedpH independentCost effective

0.7-1.1%

Sensicare® M 4200 GluconolactoneSodium BenzoateCalcium Gluconate

Cosmos certifiedMultifunctional propertiesPowder form

1-2% Make-UpHair CareToiletriesSkin CareWet Wipes

Sensicare® C Thanks to Sensicare® C range, the low presence of preservatives in the final formula has minimised undesirable

side effects such as sensitisation and incompatibility with other raw materials.

■ Booster technology

■ Reliable efficacy compared to classical preservatives

■ Low potential of sensitisation

■ Option for different marketing requirements

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Natural-Based Active Ingredients

CR&D Cosmetic Research & Development was founded in 2010 by globally known Italian

cosmetologists with a great deal of experience in Skin Care formulations and the study of new highly

bioavailable substances. On the basis of experience acquired in skin biochemistry and the current

market requirements, CR&D has developed a series of highly innovative active substances with proven

high effectiveness to solve the main skin problems.

Glycacid ECOGlycacid ECO is a biotechnological product composed of hyaluronic acid forerunner mucopolysaccharides

with a significant presence of the fundamental monomer of hyaluronic acid. For this reason, it is an important

substance for the formation of physiological hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is distributed widely throughout

connective tissue and is one of nature’s most potent moisturisers.

Moreover, Glycacid ECO increases the skin permeability, making it an important penetration enhancer

for hydrophilic active ingredients. In practice, Glycacid ECO works as a carrier that makes water-soluble

actives bioavailable, increasing not only the quantity of active which is absorbed, but also the speed of skin

permeation. This property is critical, because water-soluble active ingredients do not easily penetrate the skin.

■ Moisturising activity

■ Innovative technology based on Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

■ Increase the speed and the penetration of the active ingredient into the skin

■ Cosmos approved

Glycacid ECO and active penetration

enhancement effect

An in vitro study was performed to

evaluate the penetration of a marker

(carnitine) formulated in a gel with and

without Glycacid ECO. Glycacid ECO

increases the penetration potential

of carnitine within 1 hour, causing a

complete absorption of carnitine after

24 hours of treatment (100% absorption).

Product Name Preservatives INCI Application

Glycacid ECO Free Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Skin CareBody Care

Skin permeation of carnitine (%) with and without Glycacid ECO 5%

20%

15%

10%

5%

0%15 min 30 min 1h 3h 6h 24h tissue

Gel Camitine 2%

Gel Glycacid ECO 5% + Camitine 2%

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Glycohyal LWGlycohyal LW is composed of hyaluronic acid and its precursors, from 180 Da to 10000 Da (1200 Da on

average) and is obtained from raw materials of vegetable origin. Due to the wide-ranging molecular weight

composition (3 different molecular weights), Glycohyal LW works on three skin levels:

Dermis level: improvement of hyaluronic acid synthesis, and thus anti-ageing activity

Epidermis level: deep moisturising effect and increase in skin elasticity

Corneous layer: surface moisturisation

■ Anti-ageing activity (anti-wrinkles, improves skin elasticity)

■ Moisturising activity

■ Fast and efficient penetration of the active ingredient into the skin

■ Cosmos approved

When combined with other hydrophilic active ingredients, Glycohyal LW also improves their penetration rate.

Moisturising effect

An in vivo study was performed to evaluate the moisturising efficacy of Glycohyal LW at 2% after 60 minutes

of single application and after 7 days of application once daily. Glycohyal LW at 2% significantly improved skin

hydration after 60 minutes (+18.1%) and after 7 days (+16.3%) compared to placebo.

Skin hydration (%) with and without Glycohyal LW 2%

20%

25%

15%

10%

5%

0%Var % T0/T60min Var % T0/T7days

Gel placebo

Gel Glycohyal LW 2%

% o

f hy

dra

tion

var

iatio

n v

s T

0&

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Anti-ageing effect

An in vivo study was performed to evaluate the moisturising, elasticising and anti-wrinkle efficacy of a gel with

Glycohyal LW at 5% after 15 and 30 days of twice-daily applications on the hemi-face, compared to a placebo.

Glycohyal LW at 5% significantly improved skin hydration and skin elasticity compared to a placebo.

Glycohyal LW at 5% also induced a significant decrease in wrinkle depth compared to a placebo.

Natural-Based Active Ingredients

Product Name Preservatives INCI Application

Glycohyal LW Free Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans (and) Hyaluronic Acid

Skin Care

Viscoelastic recovery index (R2)

with and without Glycohyal LW 5%

0.68

0.70

0.72

0.66

0.64

0.62

0.60T0 T30

Gel Glycohyal LW 5%

Gel placebo

T15

R2=

Ua/

Uf

Variation of wrinkles depth (%)

with and without Glycohyal LW 5%

-4

0

-8

-12

-16

-20

T15 T30

% o

f w

rin

kle

dep

th v

aria

tion

vs

T0

Gel Glycohyal LW 5%

Gel placebo

Skin hydration (a.u.) with and without Glycohyal LW 5%

32

34

36

38

30

28

26

24T0 T30T15

skin

hyd

ratio

n (

a.u

.)

Gel Glycohyal LW 5%

Gel placebo

32

34

36

38

30

28

26

24T0 T30T15

skin

hyd

ratio

n (

a.u

.)

Gel Glycohyal LW 5%

Gel placebo

0.68

0.70

0.72

0.66

0.64

0.62

0.60T0 T30

Gel Glycohyal LW 5%

Gel placebo

T15

R2=

Ua/

Uf -4

0

-8

-12

-16

-20

T15 T30

% o

f w

rin

kle

dep

th v

aria

tion

vs

T0

Gel Glycohyal LW 5%

Gel placebo

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GlycoxantineGlycoxantine combines Glycacid ECO (Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans) with Xanthines – Caffeine,

Theophylline, Theobromine – thus reducing localised adiposity and cellulitis. By the action of Hydrolyzed

Glycosaminoglycans, the Xanthines are able to penetrate deeply through the skin layers, reaching the

adipocytes quickly and completely and activating the lipolytic process. Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

additionally help in the recovery of the permeability of the interstitial walls, which is also essential for effective

anti-cellulite activity.

■ Anti-cellulite activity (reduces the thigh circumference and decreases the adipose tissue thickness)

■ Fast and efficient penetration of the active ingredient into the skin

■ Cosmos approved

Anti-cellulite effect

An in vivo study was performed to evaluate the efficacy of Glycoxantine in the reduction of localised fat.

Glycoxantine at 3% significantly decreased thigh circumference (after 15 and 30 days of treatment) and

subcutaneous adipose tissue thickness measured by ultrasound (after 30 days of treatment).

Product name Preservatives INCI Application

Glycoxantine Free Glycerin Aqua Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglicans Caffein Teophyllin Theobromin

Body Care

Thigh circumference (cm) with and without Glycoxantine 3%

Subcutaneous adipose tissue thickness (mm) with and without Glycoxantine 3%

58.5

59

59.5

58

57.5

57

56T0 T30T15

Gel Glycoxantine 3%

Gel Placebo

cm

Time (days)

13

12

11

10

9T0 T30T15

Gel Glycoxantine 3%

Gel placebo

mm

Time (days)

&

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Natural-Based Active Ingredients

CarnoxynCarnoxyn is composed of naturally obtained ingredients which stimulate the Krebs cycle process. Carnoxyn is a

skin cell metabolism increaser that mediates the transport of fatty acids to the cells, where they are converted

into energy by mitochondria. This activation increases energy consumption, which is especially useful for the

reduction of localised adiposity and cellulitis.

■ Anti-cellulite activity (stimulates the Krebs cycle process)

Fat metabolism activator

In an in vitro study, it was shown that treatment with Carnoxyn at 5% for 24h induces a significant increase

in the gene expression of the enzyme carnitine palmitoyltransferase-1 expression (CPT1B), facilitating the

production of acyl-carnitine and thus of acetyl CoA that enters the Krebs cycle for energy production.

Product name Preservatives INCI Application

Carnoxyn Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid

Aqua (and) Carnitine Fumarate (and) Sodium Pyruvate (and) Succinic Acid (and) Citric Acid

Body Care

2

2.5

1.5

1

0.5

0CN

CN = Sodium Chloride water solution 0.9%

Carnoxyn

3h

6h

24h

RQ

CPT1B Carnitine Palmitoyl Transferase-1 gene expression after treatment of 3h, 6h, 24h with Carnoxyn

Page 21: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

21www.grolman-personalcare.com

HyalomarineHyalomarine is composed of Macrocystis pyrifera extract – an extract of a giant brown algae – and hyaluronic

acid. This extract is rich in vitamins and oligosaccharides, which, in combination with hyaluronic acid, creates a

homogeneous thin and elastic surface layer with cosmetic lifting effects.

■ Lifting effect

Lifting effect

An in vivo study was performed to evaluate the lifting effect of Hyalomarine 3%. A statistically significant

decrease of wrinkle depth, compared to both the baseline and the placebo, was observed, proving the

immediate lifting activity of the ingredient.

Product name Preservatives INCI Application

Hyalomarine Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Macrocistys Pyrifera Extract (and) Hyaluronic Acid

Skin Care

Variation of wrinkle depth (%) with and without Hyalomarine 3%

&

-4%

0%

-8%

-12%

-16%

-20%

T15 min T1h T2h

% o

f w

rin

kle

dep

th v

aria

tion

vs

T0

Gel Hyalomarine 3%

Gel placebo

Page 22: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

www.grolman-personalcare.com22

Natural-Based Active Ingredients

AFA-GSAFA-GS derives from a selective extraction of

Klamath Alga (Aphanizomenon flos-aquae =

AFA) that grows in the Klamath Lake in Oregon

(USA). The dermatological properties of its active

ingredients are:

■ Multifunctional activity

■ Anti-pollution activity (elimination of heavy metals)

■ Anti-inflammatory activity

■ Anti-oxidant activity

■ DNA protection

■ Cosmos approved

Phenylethylamine (PEA) Anti-Stress Activity

Phenylethylamine, present in AFA-GS, is also called the love or happiness molecule, as it functions as a

monoaminergic neuromodulator and, to a lesser extent, a neurotransmitter in the human central nervous

system. It helps to lower environment-derived stress to the immune system, and related skin reactions.

Skin Elasticity

The good preservation of Mitochondrial DNA has been shown in an in vivo study by the increase and lasting of

skin elasticity for many hours after the application of a gel containing 2% AFA-GS.

Phycocyanin-C (Anti-Oxidant Activity)

Phycocyanin-C, present in AFA-GS, shows a very important anti-oxidant power.

Anti-Inflammatory Activity

An in vitro study was performed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory activity of AFA-GS (determination of TNF-α

concentration released into the culture medium). THP-1 cells were incubated for 2 hours with a sample

containing different concentrations of AFA-GS. Later, THP-1 cells were stimulated to produce pro-inflammatory

cytokines (TNF-α) with LPS [100 µg/L] for 1 hour.

The results show that AFA-GS is able to reduce TNF-α concentration induced by LPS (lipopolysaccharide) in comparison to the control sample (Ctrl-). AFA-GS also shows an important anti-inflammatory activity making it suitable for sensitive and stressed skin.

The elasticity of the skin was increased during time. The blank is pure water. The value of the standard is constant. The elasticity of the skin is expressed as a deformation in N/m. AFA-GS showed a high skin elasticity power compared to the standard in good ‘vivo’ condition.

Blank [N/m] AFA-GS [N/m]

50

40

30

10

20

Skin elasticity [N/m]

T0 T30 T1600

The experimental conditions were: LPS sample (cells treated with LPS); Ctrl- sample (cells not treated with LPS); AFA-GS sample (cells treated with AFA-GS and then stimulated with LPS);

30

10

20

tnf-α (in pg/ml)

LPS AFA-GS (1.5%)

Ctrl- AFA-GS (1%)

AFA-GS (2.5%)

AFA-GS (0.25%)

AFA-GS (3%)

AFA-GS (0.5%)

AFA-GS (2%)

AFA-GS (0.125%)

0

Page 23: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

23www.grolman-personalcare.com

AFA-GS 0.5mm

AFA-GS 1.5mm

AFA-GS 2.5mm

AFA-GS 5mm

70

60

50

40

30

10

20

Moisturising test (skin dielectric constant [F/m]) at different skin depths

T0 T30 T1600

Moisturising test (skin dielectric constant [F/m]) at different skin depths

&

Glyceryl Glucoside Multilevel Skin Moisturising

AFA-GS is an extraordinary source of Glyceryl Glucoside. In substance, Glyceryl Glucoside allows keeping a

sufficient quantity of bonded water also in very dehydrating conditions. Glyceryl Glucoside effectiveness has

been shown in vivo by a hydration test (Delfin Hydra meter system) at different skin depths and at different

times after the application of a gel (AFA-GS 2%).

Protective action against blue light

It is now recognised that non-UV-containing light particularly in the violet-blue portion of the visible spectrum

(400–500 nm) may be responsible for most of the adverse effects caused by the entirety of visible light. It is

collectively referred to as blue light in most current research. Similar to the effects of visible light, the effects of blue

light irradiation in skin cells includes the formation of ROS and other adverse effects of blue light that are most likely

a consequence of ROS.

CR&D evaluated the protective activity of AFA-GS against blue light by in vitro testing its effectiveness in preventing

the formation of reactive oxygenated species (ROS) responsible for skin aging. The fluorescence is directly

proportional to the quantity of ROS produced by the cells. Percentages were calculated based on the measured

fluorescence values and the percentage of reduction of ROS compared to the irradiated negative control (NC,

untreated cells).

The test shows how the skin’s dielectric constant is directly proportional to the water content in the measured tissue. The measured value increases when the water content increases.

The sample shows protective action against blue light (significant reduction % of ROS) at tested concentrations of 0.625, 0.3125 and 0.156 mg/ml. The protective action is of 16.27%, 10.18% and 13.37%, respectively.

Product name Preservatives INCI Application

AFA-GS Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate Glycerin (and) Water (and) Sucrose (and) Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae (AFA) Powder

Skin Care

0,4

0,6

0,5

0,7

0,3

0,2

0,1

00.625 0.3125 0.156

Sig

nifi

can

t re

du

ctio

n %

of

RO

S

AFA-GS

Evaluation of the protective action against blue light % of ROS at different concentration of AFA-GS (mg/ml)

Page 24: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

www.grolman-personalcare.com24

Natural-Based Active Ingredients

Glycosnail VEGGlycosnail VEG is a plant-based enriched mucopolysaccharide complex that shows all healing and cosmetic

properties of snail slime, but fulfills all vegan compliances.

■ Anti-stretch mark activity

■ Stimulates the renewal and regularisation of keratinocytes thanks to glycoprotein

■ Minimises the damage generated by free radicals thanks to copper peptide composition

■ Deep moisturiser and surface protection thanks to hyaluronic acid composition

■ Cosmos approved

The stretch mark/scar area is reduced by 5% after 56 days of product use.

T0 T56 days T0 T56 days

In vivo test: Anti-stretch marks and small scars

An in-vivo test was performed to evaluate the reduction of stretch marks and small scars using a cosmetic

product containing 10% Glycosnail VEG.

Page 25: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

25www.grolman-personalcare.com

&

Product name Preservatives INCI Application

Glycosnail VEG Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate Aqua (and) Glycoprotein (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Hydrolyzed Glycosaminglycans (and) Copper Gluconate (and) Sodium PCA

Body Care

After 120h

Untreated cells 0.056 mg/ml 0.120 mg/ml 0.250 mg/ml

After 120h we observed a complete approximation of the wound edges especially at tested concentrations of 0.250 and 0.120 mg/ml.

After 24h

Untreated cells 0.056 mg/ml 0.120 mg/ml 0.250 mg/ml

After 24h, we observed an approximation of the wound edges in treated samples, particularly evident at tested concentrations of 0.250 mg/ml

After 48h

Untreated cells 0.056 mg/ml 0.120 mg/ml 0.250 mg/ml

After 48h we observed an almost complete approximation of wound edges in treated samples at tested concentrations of 0.250 and 0.120 mg/ml.

In vivo test: Stimulate wound healing

Page 26: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

www.grolman-personalcare.com26

Natural-Based Active Ingredients

Hydrafeel-3Hydrafeel-3 is an active ingredient effective in hair care products. It provides very good colour protection results

and helps to maintain an intense colour lasting with an effective protection against heat. Thanks to its small

molecular size, Hydrafeel-3 can penetrate into the hair structure and maintain a soft and brilliant touch.

Colour variation

The colour variation of hair locks was measured by using a colour spectrophotometer machine and ΔE *ab

value. With it we can show colour differences between natural hair locks (without Hydrafeel-3) and treated hair

locks (with Hydrafeel-3).

For results of less than 30% from the initial value (T0’), the ΔE* ab is considered negative, signifying considerable insufficient colour resistance.

We observed a sufficient colour resistance until the 4th washing and 4th radiation for hair locks treated with 0.2% of hydrafeel-3. On the other side, this resistance is only available until the 1st washing and the 1st radiation for the untreated hair locks.

■ Skin Moisturising

■ Skin Emollient

■ Hair Protectant

■ Hair Colour Protectant

■ Hair Conditioner

■ Cosmos approved

∆E*

ab

12

10

8

6

4T0‘:

after hair colour

T4W: after 4th washing

T1W: after 1st washing

T4R: after 4th radiation

T1R: after 1st radiation

T8W: after 8th washing

T8R: after 8th radiation

Colour variation of average hair locks

Untreated hair locks

Treated hair locks (Hydrafeel-3 0.2%)

Insufficient colour resistance (ΔE*>30%)

Gloss factor

We observed a better gloss with hair locks treated with 0.2% of Hydrafeel-3 than with the untreated hair locks.

0.7

0.6

0.5

0.4T0‘:

without hair colour

T4W: after 4th washing

T1W: after 1st washing

T0‘: after hair

colour

T4R: after 4th radiation

T1R: after 1st radiation

T8W: after 8th washing

T8R: after 8th radiation

Gloss factor of average hair locks

Untreated hair locks

Treated hair locks (Hydrafeel-3 0.2%)

Page 27: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

27www.grolman-personalcare.com

&

Colour uniformityThe colour uniformity is evaluated by using a uniformity scale where 0 is the minimum value (non-uniform locks) and 4 is the maximum value (very uniform locks).

Hair locks, treated with 0.2% of Hydrafeel-3, keep a uniform colour during testing phase. Without Hydrafeel-3 treatment, hair locks lose uniformity after 4th radiation.

Treated hair locks (Hydrafeel-3 0.2%)

Untreated hair locks

Un

iform

ity s

cale

43.5

32.5

21,.5

0.51

0

Colour uniformity of average hair locks

T1W: after 1st washing

T1R: after 1st radiation

T4W: after 4th washing

T4R: after 4th radiation

T8W: after 8th washing

T8R:after 8thradiation

Treated hair locks (Hydrafeel-3 0.2%)

Untreated hair locks

Un

iform

ity s

cale

43.5

32.5

21,.5

0.51

0

Colour uniformity of average hair locks

T1W: after 1st washing

T1R: after 1st radiation

T4W: after 4th washing

T4R: after 4th radiation

T8W: after 8th washing

T8R:after 8thradiation

Hair resistance to breakageThe force was measured with a dynamometer which measures both the force (Newton) needed to break hair (this measurement is performed on a single hair) and the force needed to comb it (measurement on the entire hair lock). It’s an index of hair weakness.

MoisturisingThe short term moisturising effectiveness of a gel containing Hydrafeel-3 at 1% was determined in an in vivo study on 10 subjects. The gel was applied on the subjects’ forearms and the hydration was assessed with the equipment Corneometer at baseline, after 30 minutes and after 12 hours of application of the product. The results show an increase of the skin hydration after 30 minutes and after 12 hours of product’s application.

T0: initial value T3: after 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C)

0.97

0.92

0.87

0.77

0.82

Hair resistance to breakage

Treated hair (1% Hydrafeel-3)

Untreated hair0.72

New

ton

T0: initial value T3: after 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C)

0.97

0.92

0.87

0.77

0.82

Hair resistance to breakage

Treated hair (1% Hydrafeel-3)

Untreated hair0.72

New

ton

Hair structure resistance

After 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C) on hair treated with 1% of hydrafeel-3, the average hair resistance opposed to breakage does not change significantly. For the untreated hair, this resistance decreases by 7% after 3 passages of straightener (statistically significant).

After 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C), the treated hair with 1% of Hydrafeel-3 seems normal. The untreated hair appears drier and more brittle after the passage of the plate.

Treated hair (1% Hydrafeel-3): Untreated hair:

T0: initial value T3: after 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C)

T0: initial value T3: after 3 passages of a hair straightener (200°C)

Product name Preservatives INCI Application

Hydrafeel-3 Free Polyglyceryl-3 PCA Hair CareBody CareSkin Care

70

60

50

30

40

Hydration (A.U.)

Baseline 30 minutes 12 hours

20

10

0

Page 28: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

www.grolman-personalcare.com28

Natural-Based Active Ingredients

TarchoplusTarchoplus combines the essential oil of Tarchonanthus Camphoratus with Helichrysum Angustifolium

flower extract and 4-terpineol creating an effective product to enhance sports performance. Tarchonanthus

Camphoratus, a native plant from Eastern Africa is combined with Helichrysum Angustifolium which grows

wild in Europe. Both plants are known for their anti-inflammatory and soothing properties due to the presence

of monoterpen compounds. Monoterpens are known for their anti-oxidant properties and cooling effect which

potentiate the muscle recovery after physical exercise.

Sports performance enhancer

The increased presence of lactic acid usually causes serum accumulation in tissue giving rise to muscle

contractions. The oedema decreases the efficiency of the blood microcirculation and increases the

accumulation of toxins.

In vivo tests have been carried out on professional football players who massaged their legs with an oil

containing 0.3% of Tarchonanthus Camphoratus oil. The players showed an improvement in resistance, effort

over time and a remarkable recovery and decreased weariness, also accelerating the recovery time. This

shows that Tarchonanthus Camphoratus plays an adjuvant action in the elimination of lactic acid and toxins.

Tarchoplus is a product rich in monoterpens and therefore reduces the muscles wear out and allows the body

to recover more rapidly due to the cooling effect, anti-oxidant, soothing and anti-oedema properties of its main

components.

Anti-inflammatory activity

The in vitro evaluation of anti-inflammatory potential of Tarchoplus on psoriatic skin model was determined.

The objective of this assay was to quantitatively assess the effects of Tarchoplus in protecting skin cells and in

inhibiting the inflammatory reaction in psoriatic in vitro skin cell model. The inhibition of interleukine IL-1α and

IL-6 following exposure to the tested substance was investigated and compared to untreated skin samples.

The sample caused a 95.6% reduction of IL release compared to negative control, it was considered as an

index of an anti-inflammatory skin activity of the sample.

■ Sports performance enhancer

■ Repairing

■ Anti-oedema

■ Soothing

Page 29: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

29www.grolman-personalcare.com

&

IL-1α release results

IL-6 release results

Product name Preservatives INCI Applications

Tarchoplus Free Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Tarchonanthus Camphoratus Oil (and) 4-Terpineol (and) Helichrysum Angustifolium Flower Extract

Massage OilSport Products

300

33.5

4

250

2.5

150

1.5

200

2

IL-1α Total Release (pg/ml)

IL-6 Total Release (pg/ml)

Tarchoplus 4%

Tarchoplus 4%

Calcipotriol 0.005%

Calcipotriol 0.005%

PBS

PBS

100

1

50

0.5

0

0

Page 30: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

www.grolman-personalcare.com30

Metallic Effect Pigments

Schlenk is an internationally successful family enterprise founded in 1879. Worldwide, Schlenk employs

about 1000 members of staff and is a leading international manufacturer of metal powders, pigments

and foils.

Schlenk is the expert in high-quality effect pigments and their respective formulation know-how. Metallic

effect pigments are used particularly to offer a unique look to cosmetic products.

Alegrace® MarvelousAlegrace® Marvelous is designed for nail polish

producers. It is a range of eye-catching vacuum-

metallised pigment (VMP) suspensions for solvent

and water-based nail polish. It offers outstanding

mirror-like effects, in shades from bright silver

to platinum. Combined with colorants, stunning

colourful metallic effects can be achieved.

Alegrace® Marvelous stands out with excellent

opacity properties.

■ Pure or different colour shade with mirror-like effect

■ Excellent opacity

■ High efficiency due to low pigmentation level

Alegrace® LustrousAlegrace® Lustrous is designed for nail polish

producers. It is a range based on aluminium flitters

with a big particle size to obtain a sparkling glitter

effect.

■ Sparkling glitter effect

■ Can be mixed with Alegrace® Spectacular

in order to maximise the effect

Grade INCI Name Solid Content Solvent Particle Size Morphology Application Appearance

Alegrace® Marvelous 01-01

Ethyl Acetate, Isopropyl Acetate, CI 77000

10% Ethyl Acetate

12 μm VMP Solvent-based nail polish

Bright silver mirror-like effect

Alegrace® Marvelous 01-02

Ethyl Acetate, Isopropyl Acetate, CI 77000

10% Ethyl Acetate

12 μm VMP Solvent-based nail polish

Platinum mirror-like effect

Alegrace® Marvelous 01-03

Ethyl Acetate, Isopropyl Acetate, CI 77000

10% Ethyl Acetate

12 μm VMP Solvent-based nail polish

Whitish metallic mirror-like effect

Alegrace® Marvelous 01-04

Aqua, CI 77000, Isopropyl Alcohol

10% Water-stabilised

12 μm VMP Water-based nail polish

Bright silver effect

Grade INCI Name Solid Content Particle Size Morphology Application Appearance

Alegrace® Lustrous 03-01

CI 77000 100% 250 μm Flitter Solvent-Based Nail PolishUV Gels & UV Nail PolishNail Decoration

Coarse sparkling particles

Alegrace® Lustrous 03-02

CI 77000 100% 380 μm Flitter Solvent-Based SystemsUV Gels & UV Nail PolishNail Decoration

Very coarse sparkling particles

Page 31: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

Alegrace® Spectacular Alegrace® Spectacular is designed for colour

cosmetics, nail polish, and personal care products.

It is a range of special-effect pigments that offer

polychromatic optical properties and transform

every cosmetic product into a real highlight! Various

particle sizes allow for instantly eye-catching or

rather subtle effects.

Alegrace® Spectacular can be used together with

any pigments. Due to its transparent powder form

Alegrace® Aurous Alegrace® Aurous is a range of golden Ultra-Thin

Pigments (UTP) for colour cosmetics, nail polish

and personal care products. Alegrace® Aurous

offers a variety of natural gold shades with strong

colour saturation, extraordinary flop and excellent

opacity. In combination with transparent colour or

effect pigments various warm colour shades can be

created. For the perfect golden shine!

■ Excellent opacity

■ Natural, deep gold shades

■ Outstanding metallic brilliance and flop

■ Can be mixed with pigments to achieve a large

range of gold and warm colour shades

■ Flawless, non-flaky effects

Grade INCI Name Solid Content Particle Size Application Morphology Appearance

Alegrace® Spectacular 04-01

Acrylates Crosspolymer-4, CI 77000

100% 35 μm

Colour cosmeticsSolvent-based nail polishWater-based nail polishUV gels & UV nail polishNail decoration

Holographic Fine polychromatic light sparks

Alegrace® Spectacular 04-02

Acrylates Crosspolymer-4, CI 77000

100% 150 μm Holographic Coarse poly chromatic light sparks

Alegrace® Spectacular 04-03

Acrylates Crosspolymer-4, CI 77000

100% 20 µm Holographic Very fine polychromatic light sparks

Grade INCI Name Solid Content Particle Size Application Morphology Appearance

Alegrace® Aurous 02-01

CI 77491, Silica, CI 77000

100% 18 μm Colour CosmeticsSolvent-Based Nail PolishUV Gels & UV Nail PolishNail Decoration

UTP Opaque, greenish gold metallic effect

it adds a spectacular finish to every coloured

cosmetic product!

■ Very attractive polychromatic effect

■ Can be mixed with colour pigments without

modifying this colour

■ Powder form: can be used in many applications

■ 3 different particle sizes

Page 32: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

www.grolman-personalcare.com32

Complex Esters

Temix Oleo combines its experience in the distribution of raw materials, selected mainly from

renewable sources, with the technology and the long-standing experience in the esters and fatty acids

production.

Temest 125 LT (C12-15 Alkyl Lactate)Temest 125 LT ester is an emollient that can deliver

a variety of benefits to sunscreens, lip balms, colour

cosmetics, creams, lotions and other personal

care products. Used to reduce the tackiness and

greasiness of components such as petrolatum, this

ester imparts a non-oily lubricity to hydro-alcoholic

products. It is easy to emulsify and is compatible

with many systems, especially in pH neutral

formulations. Temest 125 LT is also a functional

ingredient thanks to its keratolytic activity and its

ability to bring smoothness and softness to skin.

In hair care, its use in conditioners will be ideal

thanks to the lactic part affinity with keratin. In

shampoo, this ester will help to increase the

viscosity.

Temest T20 (Coco Caprylate/Caprate)Temest T20 is a medium spread emollient with low

viscosity. It is non-toxic, green and non-irritating to

eyes and skin. It is effective in reducing blackheads.

This ester is a green solution for silicon oil

replacement. It offers an excellent compatibility with

the skin and cosmetic raw materials.

Temest J30 (Diethylheyxyl Sebacate)This saturated ester has very good oxidation stability,

is efficient at solubilising pigments and UV filters,

giving a high shine. Imparts a pleasant, non sticky

feel, with very good play time and lubrication.

Temest J05 (Diethylheyxyl Adipate)This saturated ester has very good oxidation stability.

It provides a matte finish to the formulations and

allows a very good solubilisation of pigments and UV

filters. It provides good lubrication and reduces sticky

feel. Moreover, as the chain is shorter, the touch will

be lighter and the “play time” shorter.

Page 33: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

33www.grolman-personalcare.com

Classical and Complex Esters

Product name INCI Characteristics

Temest 125 LT C12-15 Alkyl Lactate Reduces tackiness and greasinessHigh conditioningBrings viscosity in surfactant systems

Temest T20 Coco Caprylate/Caprate Green solution for silicon oil replacement

Temest J30 Diethylheyxyl Sebacate Brings shineVery stable regarding oxidationVery good solubilisation of UV filters and pigments

Temest J05 Diethylheyxyl Adipate Brings matt effectVery stable regarding oxidationVery good solubilisation of UV filters and pigments

Commercial Name INCI Name Cos

met

ic E

mul

sion

Liqu

id E

mul

sion

Lotio

n

Ligh

t C

osm

etic

Bab

y O

il

Dec

orat

ive

– M

ake-

Up

Skin

Cre

am

Sun

Car

e / P

rote

ctio

n

Mas

sage

Oil

Skin

Car

e

Deo

dora

nt &

Ant

iper

spira

nt

Eleg

ant

Skin

Car

e Pr

oduc

ts

Suita

ble

for

Pigm

ent

Dis

pers

ion

Emul

sion

W/O

Solv

ent

for

Lipi

dic

Act

ive

Ingr

edie

nt

Day

Cre

am

Hai

r C

are

Trea

tmen

t

Spre

adin

g

Temest 2EHP Ethylhexyl Palmitate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium

Temest 2EHS Ethylhexyl Stearate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium

Temest ALB C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ high

Temest CTN Cetearyl Isononanoate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium

Temest DO V Decyl Oleate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium

Temest 810 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium

Temest PDGE Propylene Glycol Caprylic/Capric ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium

Temest IPIS Isopropyl Isosteatate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ high

Temest PTIS Pentaerythrithyl Tetraisostearate ■ ■ ■ low

Temest GMIS Glyceryl Monoisostearate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ low

Temest TEC Triethyl Citrate ■ ■ ■ ■ light

Temest CTE Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ medium

Temest CTP Cetyl Palmitate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ low

Temest GMO Glyceryl Oleate ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ low

Page 34: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

www.grolman-personalcare.com34

Temcare SG (Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate)Temcare SG is an anionic O/W amino acid type

emulsifier, compatible with cationic ingredients,

salts or actives. It has an excellent emulsifying

effect at low dosage. The developed emulsion will

be very stable without any viscosity variation. It

can also form a lamellar liquid crystal emulsion that

will improve moisturising thanks to its comparable

structure with skin. Temcare SG can be added to

the oil or water phase and can be used in cold

or hot process. In addition, Temcare is a good

choice in a pure amino acid facial cleanser. It can

also be combined with Temcare CG or other mild

surfactants to produce a paste facial cleanser.

Temcare GLY (Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate)Glycine is one of the main free amino acids whose

levels drop significantly during normal surfactant

use. Temcare GLY is a 30% active cleansing agent

Product name INCI Characteristics

Temcare SG Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Anionic O/W emulsifierForms lamellar liquid crystal emulsionsCold or hot process

Temcare GLY Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Mild surfactantGlycine derivateCreamy foamLeaves fresh feeling

Temcare CG Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Mild surfactantSmooth and soft feelingImproves hair condition

Temest S3 Sodiun Laureth Sulfosuccinate Mild surfactant

Temcare SL Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Mild surfactant

APG 810 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside Mild surfactant

APG 814M Coco Glucoside Mild surfactant

APG 1214 Lauryl Glucoside Mild surfactant

Emulsifiers and Mild Surfactants

based on Glycine, the simplest amino acid, and

coconut fatty acids. It helps to recover the normal

level of glycine on skin. Its creamy resilient foam is

obtained under neutral to alkaline conditions. The

foam obtained with Temcare GLY has an equivalent

foam level as Temcare LS (Sodium Lauroyl

Sarcosinate) but creamier and with a good starting

foam. This product leaves a fresh feeling on skin

after washing without taut feeling.

Temcare CG (Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate)Temcare CG is an anionic surfactant of amino acid

category. It’s an ideal ingredient applied in personal

cleaning products, and is mild and leaves skin feeling

smooth and soft. It’s also non-irritant, non-allergic,

non-comedogenic and is resistant to hard water.

In shampoos, glutamate improves hair strength.

Page 35: Personal Care - SCS Formulate

35www.grolman-personalcare.com

Innovative Emulsifiers

Aqdot® is a Cambridge (UK)-based performance chemistry company with a focus and expertise in

developing, licensing and selling novel proprietary products. Aqdot’s proprietary technology and

knowhow enables materials to be captured, held and released on demand. In unique and proprietary

formulations, the chemistry has the potential to be game-changing in a wide range of industries,

including household and personal care products, fragrances, industrial chemicals, agrochemicals,

and pharmaceuticals. Identifying unmet needs in these sectors, Aqdot develops products that enable

customers to introduce novel and differentiated brands, reduce manufacturing costs and make a truly

positive impact on the environment.

Aq™Star M1Aq™Star is a naturally-derived, high-performing

emulsifier that has the sensory benefits of naturals

and the stability of synthetics. Aq™Star M1

formulations have soft, silky skin feel and “powder

dry” after-feel, even in high oil systems. Emulsions

created using Aq™Star M1 have exceptional stability

with a wide range of emollients and oils.

■ O/W emulsion

■ Innovation technology: Innovative Aq™Bit technology

®

Product INCI Name Characteristics Use Level Form

Aq™Star M1 Sodium Starch Octenyl Succinate, Cucurbiturils

Creates very stable emulsion with high level of oils, a variety of oils and difficult components like aloe vera.Creates excellent skin feel and sensory benefits of natural emulsifiers.

1-10% Solid

Significantly more stable than lipophilic starch

Initial

Vo

lum

e In

ten

sity

% 15

10

5

0Size µm0.1 1 10 100

1 Week at 45°C

Vo

lum

e In

ten

sity

% 15

10

5

0Size µm

0.1 1 10 100

AqTMStar

Natural Competitor

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Silicone Elastomers and Fluoro Silicones

Basel aims to be the best in the industry through its strong financial structure and high technological

level. Founded in 1999, it was the first Korean producer of cosmetic silicone gel and silicone water

repellent, previously only imported. Basel has expanded its research and development for cosmetic

silicone gel and other industries and is expanding to launch better products with world-class

technology. In this rapidly changing global market, Basel develops its products in an innovative way

according to the needs of its customers and produces, supplies and supports its customers with

differentiated quality products. Basel is always trying to help the industry thrive by creating more

patents and improving technology.

Fluoro Silicones Inclusion of fluoro groups into the silicone backbone

results in the lowering of surface tension and

increased spreadability when compared to the non-

fluoro dimethicone of the same molecular weight.

Fluoro silicones can be used in many applications.

In skin care, they provide skin protection, reduce

the feeling of stickiness, improve the skin’s water-

repellent appearance, enhance the skin feeling,

reduce the soapy effect of certain emulsions, and

help the skin close pores.

In hair care, they act as an additive in 2-in-1

shampoos, improve shine and ensure optimum

combing on wet hair.

In make-up, they add shine, improve pigment

dispersion and help to spread mascara.

■ Extraordinary skin feeling

■ Oil, water repellent

■ Long-lasting effect

■ Heat resistance

Product INCI Name Characteristics Viscosity (cPs) Form

SF-30 Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone

Extraordinary skin feeling 200-1000 (25°C) Clear and slightly viscous liquid

SF-30 EM Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone, Steareth-2, Steareth-20, Water

Water soluble 10 White liquid emulsion

TFL-30 Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone

Cost reduction 100 Homogeneous clear liquid

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Silicone Gel Elastomers ■ Enhance skin feeling

■ Many applications: skin care, hair care, sun care, make-up

Product INCI Name Characteristics Viscosity (cPs) Form

BSG-200S Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Skin care 60000-120000 Homogeneous and turbid gel

BSG-650 DF Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenyl Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone

Skin care 10000-60000 Very viscous and clear gel

Puresil-210M Dimethicone, Water, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol

Skin care 20000-80000 Homogeneous and slighty viscous emulsion

Puresil-D308 Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Skin care 50000-100000 Homogeneous and very slightly turbid gel

Puresil-CH M01 Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Skin care 200000-300000 Very viscous gel

BSG-5041 Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Make-up 300000-500000 Very viscous and slightly turbid gel

BSG-260 Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Hair care 70000-200000 Viscous and turbid gel

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Performance Thickeners

Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form

Acrypol ET-28 Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer

Excellent salt toleranceExcellent suspension and stabilisation propertiesExcellent thickening and flow controlClear and transparent gelEffective pH: 6.0-12.0

1-10% 30% liquid dispersion

Product INCI Name Characteristic Use Level Form

Acryset Superhold II Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer Anionic acrylates copolymerVery easy to useNo tackiness or stickinessUltra-stiff hold and high shineSuperior high humidity resistanceUV stableNo colour changeLong lasting hold

1-10% 30% liquid dispersion

Corel Pharma Chem is one of the world’s renowned and fastest growing companies in the field of acrylic

based specialty polymers supplied into pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, cosmetic and food industry

sectors. It was established in 1990 and is located in India’s largest Chemical belt i.e. Ahmedabad

(Gujarat). Corel Pharma Chem dedicates itself to offering cutting edge polymer technology solutions. The

company strives to be market leader in the industry sectors served by focusing on R&D. Corel Pharma

Chem has a footprint in more than 35 countries and by its continuous efforts, new innovations and

better services, the company satisfies its customers’ expectations and thus is always one step ahead.

Acrypol ET-28 Acrypol ET-28 has been specially designed to help

formulators achieve a luxurious, transparent and

glossy gel that can be used in any application.

Acrypol ET-28 is a liquid that thickens instantly when

neutralised, making handling easier, improving the

manufacturing process and saving time. Acrypol

ET-28 is designed for clear formulations and is

compatible with non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric

surfactants as well as electrolytes.

■ Easy to disperse

■ Low percentage needed to obtain good viscosity

■ Compatible with surfactant systems and emulsions

■ Economical

Acryset Superhold IIAcryset Superhold II is a cross-linked film forming

polymer comprising of hair fixative and thickening

properties. This dual property requires no addition

of hair fixative or thickener, which makes the

production easy and cost effective. However, if

required, traditional thickeners can be used along

with Acryset Superhold II. It shows synergistic

effects with no viscosity drop, therefore, less

thickener is required.

Acryset Superhold II is a replacement of traditional

fixative as well as a thickener (PVP+Carbomer) in

hair styling formulations. It gives maximum holding

capacity and clarity above pH 7.

■ Hair fixative agent

■ Efficient thickener

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Talc

Naturally occurring silicate mineral of magnesium with soothing

and skin protectant properties.

MondanaMondo Minerals is a leading multinational producer of industrial talc founded in 1968, with a long history of

innovation, quality, reliability and customer satisfaction. Mondo has gained the trust of companies worldwide

by providing excellent know-how, products and services.

Mondana talc is a high-purity magnesium silicate hydrate, which is European Pharmacopoeia compliant and

asbestos free and is supplied sterilised (HT – heat-treated). It is a 100% natural, pure and ultra-fine talc with

excellent skin protection properties. Mondana talc soothes even delicate skin and imparts a fresh, smooth

and enhanced skin feeling to many types of Skin Care formulations. Mondo recently developed new products

as scrubs. They propose 3 different particles size: 250 µm, 500 µm and 710 µm. You can easily substitute PE

beads.

■ Soothing

■ Skin Protectant

■ Anti-Microbial Agent

■ Skin Feel Enhancer

■ Exfoliating Agent

Product Name INCI Characteristics Application Form

Mondana 8 HT

Talc

Medium particle size D50 = 2.3 ± 0.6 µm Hair Styling Gels

Powder

Mondana 15 HT Medium particle size D50 = 5.5 ± 2.0 µm Facial CreamsBB & CC CreamsFacial MasksBody CreamsSunscreens

Mondana 35 HT Medium particle size D50 = 10 ± 2 µm Talcum PowdersAntiperspirants/DeodorantsHair Styling GelsDry ShampoosBody CreamsSunscreens

Mondana 50 HT Medium particle size D50 = 13 ± 4 µm SoapsTalcum PowdersAntiperspirants/DeodorantsDry Shampoos

Mondana Scrub 250 Particle size: 250 µm

Scrubs (Body, Face, Foot…) ScrubsMondana Scrub 500 Particle size: 500 µm

Mondana Scrub 710 Particle size: 710 µm

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Cross-linked Hyaluronic Acid

Since its foundation in 1997, Woosung has been distributing and developing cosmetic raw materials.

As a professional company of cosmetic raw materials, it is constantly researching and developing high

quality raw materials. Woosung always strives to meet your needs.

Hyalpol Moisture Plus Hyalpol Moisture Plus is a cross-linked sodium

hyaluronate. It is a “super moisture” ingredient

derived from hyaluronic acid that restores and

preserves the skin’s suppleness and radiance.

■ Adsorbs to the skin

■ Moisturising and antioxidant properties

■ Excellent after-feel

Product INCI Name Characteristic Form

Hyalpol Moisture Plus Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Cross linked sodium hyaluronateExcellent stability in high temperature

Transparent gel

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Silver for Antimicrobial Activity

Argenol is a 100% Spanish company established in 1939 as API (Active Pharmaceutical Ingredient)

producer for pharmaceutical industry and medical devices. Argenol is specialised in producing silver-

based products. Argenol has two production plants and both are GMP certified. Today, Argenol exports

to over 60 countries all around the world.

Silver has been used successfully for centuries by ancient civilizations (Roman, Greek and Egyptian) as an

antimicrobial agent to prevent infection and preserve food and water.

Today we know that silver has a broad spectrum antimicrobial activity on many microorganism and has a

low potential to develop resistance. As it does not damage the cutaneous flora, it helps to stabilise the skin

microbiome.

Silver acts in different steps to kill the microorganism: first it will destroy the cell membrane of the

microorganism, then it will inhibit the DNA replication, and finally it will block the cell breathing.

Silver Citrate Solution

Metallic Silver Powder W

Product INCI Name Characteristics Application Form

Silver Citrate Solution Silver Citrate, Citric Acid Cosmos approvedEasy to formulateFast activityAntimicrobial & Deodorant activityWater soluble transparent liquidOptimum pH<5Dosage recommended: 0.1-1%

DeodorantsToiletriesFoot CareIntimate HygieneSkin CareMale ProductsWet Wipes

Transparent liquid

Product INCI Name Characteristics Application Form

Metallic Silver Powder W Silver Cosmos certifiedGMPWhite powderDosage recommended: 0.05-0.3%

DeodorantsToiletriesFoot CareIntimate HygieneOral CareSkin CareMale ProductsWet Wipes

White powder

■ Antimicrobial activity

■ Non-irritating

■ Aluminium free

■ Prevents the formation of unpleasant odours

■ Replaces triclosan

■ Ionic silver has a fast activity

■ Antimicrobial activity

■ Non-irritating

■ Aluminium free

■ Metallic silver has a long time effect

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Precipitated Calcium Carbonate

High-purity precipitated calcium carbonate with multiple cosmetic functionalities

such as an emulsion stabiliser.

CalprecCales de Llierca is a Spanish producer of precipitated calcium carbonate (PCC). They are part of Calcinor, a

leading manufacturer of high-quality lime products.

PCC is a high-purity calcium carbonate made by direct carbonation of hydrated lime. Compared to standard

ground calcium carbonates (GCC), PCC is distinguished for its ability to achieve smaller and more uniform

particle sizes, greater stability and offers narrower granulometric distribution, higher specific surface area,

highest purity and lower abrasiveness.

Due to these homogeneous properties, PCC is often used as an emulsion stabiliser in facial masks,

sunscreens and hand and foot creams. PCC is also used as an abrasive in toothpastes and as a stabiliser in dry

shampoos.

■ Emulsion stabiliser

■ Stabiliser in dry Shampoo

■ Abrasive in toothpastes

Product Name INCI Characteristics Application Form

Calprec PA E-170 Calcium Carbonate High specific surface areaHigh purityUniform particle sizeLow abrasiveness

Facial MasksHand & Foot CreamsSunscreensToothpastesDry Shampoos

Powder

Parameter Calprec PA

Crystalline structure > 98.5% calcite

Calcium (CaCO3) > 98.5%

Residual alkalinity < 0.5%

Average particle diameter (D4,3)

1.4-2.0 µm

Moisture content < 1%

Whiteness relative to MgO (R457 filter)

> 95%

Chromium < 10 ppm

Lead < 3 ppm

Arsenic < 1 ppm

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Iron Blue Pigment

Orion Engineered Carbons is one of the world’s leading suppliers of carbon black and other specialised

pigments. The company operates 14 global production sites and four Applied Technology Centres,

focusing on quality supply and collaborative partnerships with customers.

Dark blue, called the first of the modern pigments, has very high tinting strength and shows excellent

dispersibility in dry formulations.

Iron BlueVossen-Blau® 750 LSX is a micronised greenish-blue

pigment, which shows excellent dispersibility in dry

formulations. Due to the high degree of fineness, it

provides optimum colour strength. According to ISO

2495, this group of pigments is classified as “iron

blue”. Alternative names are Prussian Blue, Berlin

Blue or Milori Blue.

■ Colour index generic name: Pigment Blue 27

■ Colour index constitution no. 77510

■ CAS no.: 25869-00-5, 14038-43-8

Vossen-Blau® 750 LSX is an uncoated grade of iron

blue supplied in a micronised form, and is designed

to be used as a colorant in Decorative Cosmetic

products. Vossen-Blau® 750 LSX is listed in the

following directories:

■ EINECS: 247-304-1/237-875-5

■ ECL: KE 01695/KE 16966

■ MITI: No. 1-133

■ TSCA, DSL, AICS, PICCS, IECSC, INCI

■ Purity of shade

■ High tinting strength

■ Uncoated grade

■ Micronised

■ Excellent dispersibility

■ Conforms to ISO 2495 and fulfils FDA requirements

■ (CFR Title 21, Part 73, Sec. 73.)

F o c u s e d. I n n o v a t i v e. R e s p o n s i v e .

Physical Properties

Relative tinting strength (ISO 787-24) 100 ± 10%

Volatile matter at 105 °C (ISO 787-2) ≤ 5.0%

Water-extractable content (ISO 787-3) < 1.2%

pH (ISO 787-3) 3-6

Average particle size 0.34 µm

Specific surface area (typical value) 69 m2/g

Masstone light fastness (ISO 105, B01) 8

Product Grades INCI Name Colour Application

Iron Blue Vossen-Blau® 750 LSX CI 77510 Blue Mascara, Eye Liner, Eye Shadow, Blusher, Loose Powder, Lip Gloss (*), Lipstick (*), Nail Polish

(*) Not approved by the FDA for mucous membranes and lip applications

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Fluorescent and Organic Pigments

DayGlo (Radiant Color/Sterling) is a world leader in the development and production of high-

performance and special-effect pigments, pigment dispersions and resin technology. DayGlo (Radiant

Color/Sterling) offers intelligent solutions based on innovative products and tailor-made services.

Fluorescent pigments enlarge the available colour space and create new and brighter shade

possibilities, either in their pure form or in combination with other colorants.

DermaGlo™

DermaGlo™ cosmetic colorants are a new

range of D&C-grade colorants that enhance the

existing special-effect range due to their high

responsiveness to black light and high chroma.

DermaGlo™ cosmetic colorants are solid solutions

combining certified dyes with a proprietary polymer

matrix. With this technology, it is possible to create

different optical brightening effects.

DermaGlo™ cosmetic colorants are manufactured

according to international cosmetics guidelines for

GMP applications and are suitable for use in a wide

variety of traditional cosmetic products.

These unique shades can be used to enhance or

expand your current cosmetic colour range creating

bright clean colours.

■ Colorants for water, oil and solvent-based systems

■ Easy to blend, process and disperse (no pre-dispersion

required)

■ Better pH stability than dyes or lakes

■ Heavy metal free

■ Non-staining

Grades INCI Name INCI Dye Name Colour Compliance & Application Area

DermaGlo™ EU US Japan

DGS-11Bis(Glycidoxyphenyl)propane/Bisaminomethyl-norbornane copolymer, Aluminium Hydroxide, D&C Colorant(s)

CI 45410; CI 45380 Aurora Pink 2(*) L, X L, E, X

DGS-13EC CI 47005; CI 45380; CI 45410 Rocket Red 1(*) L, X L, E, X

DGS-15EC CI 47005; CI 45380; CI 45410 Blaze Orange 1(*) L, X L, E, X

DGS-17 CI 47000 Saturn Yellow (**) 2, 3(*) X X

DGS-19 Bis(Glycidoxyphenyl)propane/Bisaminomethyl-norbornane copolymer, Shellac, Aluminium Hydroxide, D&C Colorant(s)

CI 77007 Horizon Blue (**) 1 E, X L, E, X

DGS-20Bis(Glycidoxyphenyl)propane/Bisaminomethyl-norbornane copolymer, Aluminium Hydroxide, D&C Colorant(s)

CI 60730; CI 45410 Purple (**) 2, 3 X X

DGS-21 CI 45380; CI 45410 Corona Magenta 2(*) L, X L, E

DGS-531EC CI 47005 Green Shade Yellow 1 L, E, X L, E, X

DGS-00 CI Fluorescent Brightener 230 Fluorescent Illuminator

1 L, E, X L, E, X

EU: 1 = Over all cosmetics, 2 = Not for eye area, 3 = Not for mucus contact; (*) = Not allowed as hair dyesUS/Japan: L = Lip, E = Eye, X = External (**) Not fluorescent colours – not UV-/black light-responsive

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Iron Oxides

rimana iox iron oxide pigments are produced by one of the world’s leading manufacturers

in the colour industry.

rimana iox “C” Graderimana iox “C” iron oxides are produced by way

of a specialised manufacturing process which

assures the lowest level of heavy metal content;

making them perfect for cosmetic companies

that require the highest purity of all iron oxides

pigment applications.

■ Synthetic high-purity pigments

■ Comply with requirements for all globally recognised

cosmetic and food applications

Grades INCI Name Colour Application

rimana iox ‘C’ grade

Yellow C1000 CI 77492 YellowFoundation, Mascara, Eye Liner, Eye Shadow, Lip Gloss, Lipstick,Nail Polish

Yellow C1001 CI 77492 Yellow

Red C3003 CI 77491 Red

Black C5000 CI 77499 Black

Colour Formula % Fe Length Width m2/g g/100 g pH

rimana iox ‘C’ grade Particle Size (µm) Specific Surface Area Oil Absorption

Yellow C1000 FeOOH 60+ 0.42 0.07 14.50 42.0 6.5

C1001 FeOOH 60+ 0.70 0.17 11.50 42.0 6.5

Red C3003 Fe2O3 68+ 0.09 – 11.00 20.0 6.5

Black C5000 Fe3O4 68+ 0.22 – 5.25 21.0 7.0

Product Series Grades Masstone Reduction

rimana iox ‘C’ Yellow C1000

Yellow C1001

Red C3003

Black 5000

Grolman1855

International Distribution

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Polyvinyl Alcohol & VA Copolymers

Polyvinyl alcohol & VA copolymers are widely used in Personal Care formulations to impart superior

film forming and adhesion properties.

Selvol™ UltaluxSekisui is a Japanese based company whose vision is to utilise its advanced technologies and quality to

continuously develop the frontiers of “Chemical Solutions”, contributing to people’s lives around the world and

to the global environment.

Selvol™ Ultalux is a range of polyvinyl alcohol and VA copolymers with different viscosities, for creating

innovative formulations that lend distinct performance attributes to cosmetic products. In Skin Care they are

mostly used for their film-forming, viscosity-enhancing and emulsion-stabilising properties, but can also have

an impact on skin moisture and skin tightening. In Hair Care they are also used for their adhesion properties,

acting as hair fixatives.

■ Film former

■ Thickener

■ Hair fixative

Product Name INCI Characteristics Application Form

Selvol™ Ultalux FP

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Low viscosityNon-irritant to the skin

Facial Creams & LotionsBB & CC CreamsFacial SerumsFacial MasksBody Creams & LotionsHand & Foot CreamsSunscreensAfter Sun LotionsShower GelsFacial CleansersToothpastesAntiperspirants/Deodorants Hair ConditionersHair Masks and SerumsHair ShampoosHair Styling Gels

Powder

Selvol™ Ultalux FA Medium viscosityNon-irritant to the skin

Selvol™ Ultalux FF High molecular weight film formerHigh viscosityNon-irritant to the skin

Selvol™ Ultalux AD Vinyl Amine/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer

Film formerEmulsion stabiliserNon-irritant to the skin

Selvol™ Ultalux SC VP/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer

Film formerNon-irritant to the skin

Parameter Selvol™ Ultalux FP Selvol™ Ultalux FA Selvol™ Ultalux FF Selvol™ Ultalux AD Selvol™ Ultalux SC

Brookfield Viscosity(cps, 15% Aqueous Solution, 20ºC)

270-310 5100-5700 22000-26000 450-550 1400-1600

pH of a 4% wt dispersion

4.5-6.5 4.5-6.5 4.5-6.5 11.0-12.0 4.5-7.0

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Microcrystalline Cellulose

Sigachi was founded in 1989 in India. It is the largest producer of microcrystalline cellulose in India,

having a total production capacity of more than 6,000 MT a year. This company is well-known in

Europe for pharmaceutical grades of microcrystalline cellulose.

Cosmocel™Cosmocel™ as a trademark for Personal Care is exclusively sold by Grolman. Sigachi proposes 3 different sizes

of microcrystalline cellulose beads: 200 µm, 300 µm and 400 µm which can be used on face, body, hands or

feet. The beads have a heterogeneous shape providing a better exfoliation.

Sigachi also proposes 3 different sizes of microcrystalline cellulose powder: 15 µm, 30 µm and 50 µm which

can be used in emulsions to bring a mattifying effect.

Grades INCI Name Appearance Particle Size Application Functionality

Cosmocel™ NS200

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Beads (Heterogeneous shape)

200 µm

Scrubs (Body, Face, Feet…) Exfoliating agent

Cosmocel™ NS300 300 µm

Cosmocel™ NS400 400 µm

Cosmocel™ NS10

Powder

10 µm

Emulsions

Oil absorbentSoft focus effectMattifierOil absorbentSoft focus effectMattifier

Cosmocel™ NS15 15 µm

Cosmocel™ NS30 30 µm

Cosmocel™ NS50 50 µm

■ Exfoliating property

■ Mattifying and oil absorbance properties

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Ultramarine and Manganese Violet Pigments

Venator is a world leading supplier of ultramarine blue and manganese violet pigments. Over 130

years of manufacture has enabled them to establish an enviable reputation as leaders in ultramarine

technology and experts in the use of ultramarines and manganese violet pigments in a wide variety of

end applications.

Ultramarine occupies a unique place in the world of colour. Its intense beauty has always been highly

valued over centuries by many cultures.

Pigment RangeA range of pigments for cosmetics covers the

spectrum from blue to pink. All the pigments

produce bright, attractive shades both in masstone

and when blended with other pigments. They offer

ultramarines from green-shade blue to violet and

pink as well as manganese violet for the cosmetics

market. The colour of each grade is controlled to a

tight tolerance to ensure excellent batch-to-batch

consistency.

■ Unique, vibrant colour

■ Non-toxic; low trace metal content

■ Easy incorporation into cosmetic formulations

■ Non-staining

■ Worldwide legislation approval (EU: Reg. 1223/2009;

USA: FDA CFR Title 21, Part 73.)

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Product Grades INCI Name Colour Application

Ultramarine Blue 02 C

CI 77007

Pigment Blue 29

Mascara,Eye Liner,Eye Shadow,Lip Gloss (*),Lipstick (*),Face and Body Paint,Nail Polish

Ultramarine Blue 51 C Pigment Blue 29

Ultramarine Blue 08 C Pigment Blue 29

Ultramarine Blue 05 C Pigment Blue 29

Ultramarine Blue 17 C Pigment Blue 29

Ultramarine Violet 12 C Pigment Violet 15

Ultramarine Pink 19 C Pigment Red 259

Manganese Violet VM 43 CI 77742 Pigment Violet 16

Physical Properties Ultramarine Blues Manganese Violet

02C 51C 08 05C 17C 12C 19C VM43

Specific gravity 2.35 2.35 2.35 2.35 2.30 2.35 2.35 2.90

Average particle size 1.24 µm 1.44 µm 2.14 µm 1.17 µm 1.93 µm 1.64 µm 1.70 µm 0.90 µm

Oil absorption 37.5% 37% 33% 35% 56% 33.5% 33% 33%

Alkali fastness excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent poor

Acid fastness poor poor poor poor excellent poor poor excellent

(*) Not approved by the FDA for mucous membranes and lip applications

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Grolman Lab Services

Your Technical Support for Success

Every phase in the development of a new Personal Care product is important:

from the selection of each ingredient to the efficacy testing of the finished product.

Grolman laboratories have been established and equipped to help you with this

challenge. In our lab, we can:

Additionally, we have at our disposal a

dedicated team of industry experts who are

on hand to provide valuable independent

testing, application and formulation advice

for all products offered in our Personal

Care portfolio as well as regulatory support

for introducing the end products into the

market.

■ Provide cost-effective solutions for your

technical needs

■ Train our sales and technical people to

facilitate a better dialogue with you

■ Offer testing services which include:

▪ Formulation development or optimisation

▪ Stability testing

▪ Microbiological testing

▪ Safety testing

▪ Efficacy testing

This information and all technical and other advice is based on Grolman’s present knowledge and experience. However, Grolman assumes no liability for such information or advice, including the extent to which such information or advice may relate to third-party intellectual property rights. Grolman reserves the right to make any changes to information or advice at any time, without prior or subsequent notice. Grolman disclaims all representations and warranties, whether express or implied, and shall have no liability for the merchantability of the product or its fitness for a particular purpose (even if Grolman is aware of such purpose), or otherwise. Grolman shall not be responsible for consequential, indirect or incidental damages (including loss of profit) of any kind. It is the customer’s sole responsibility to arrange for the inspection and testing of all products by qualified experts. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation nor an endorsement of the corresponding product, and does not imply that similar products could not be used.

ALGERIA

Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]

AUSTRIA

Grolman Chemikalien Handelsges. mbHTel +43 (662) 87 25 62 [email protected]

BELGIUM

Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 50 [email protected] BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] BULGARIA

Grolman EOODTel +359 (2) 9 89 76 45 [email protected] CROATIA

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] CZECH REPUBLIC

Grolman, s.r.o.Tel +420 (2) 51 55 32 33 [email protected] DENMARK

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected] ESTONIA

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] FINLAND

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected]

FRANCE

Grolman S.A.S.Tel +33 (4) 77 55 79 [email protected]

GERMANY

Gustav Grolman GmbH & Co. KGTel +49 (2131) 93 [email protected]

GREECE

Grolman E.P.E.Tel +30 (211) 1 98 51 40 [email protected]

HUNGARY

Grolman Kft.Tel +36 (23) 88 40 [email protected] ICELAND

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] IRELAND

Grolman Ltd.Tel +44 (1291) 62 52 [email protected] ITALY

Grolman S.r.l.Tel +39 (039) 9 28 03 25 [email protected] LATVIA

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected] LITHUANIA

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected]

LUXEMBOURG

Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 50 [email protected] MACEDONIA

Grolman EOODTel +359 (2) 9 89 76 45 [email protected]

MOLDOVA

Grolman RomaniaTel +40 (21) 7 45 60 [email protected] MONTENEGRO

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] MOROCCO

Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]

THE NETHERLANDS

Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 [email protected]

NORWAY

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected]

POLAND

Grolman Sp. z o.o.Tel +48 (22) 3 93 11 [email protected] PORTUGAL

Grolman, Lda.Tel +351 (22) 9 4310 [email protected]

ROMANIA

Grolman RomaniaTel +40 (21) 7 45 60 [email protected] SERBIA

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 [email protected] SLOVAKIA

Grolman, s.r.o.Tel +420 (2) 51 55 32 33 [email protected] SLOVENIA

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] SPAIN

Grolman Iberia, S.L.Tel +34 (93) 7 50 67 61 [email protected] SWEDEN

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] SWITZERLAND

Grolman AGTel +41 (61) 5 85 10 [email protected] TUNESIA

Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]

TURKEY

Grolman Kimya Tic. Ltd. Şti.Tel +90 (216) 9 11 83 [email protected] UNITED KINGDOM

Grolman Ltd.Tel +44 (1291) 62 52 [email protected]

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Grolman Lab Services

Your Technical Support for Success

Every phase in the development of a new Personal Care product is important:

from the selection of each ingredient to the efficacy testing of the finished product.

Grolman laboratories have been established and equipped to help you with this

challenge. In our lab, we can:

Additionally, we have at our disposal a

dedicated team of industry experts who are

on hand to provide valuable independent

testing, application and formulation advice

for all products offered in our Personal

Care portfolio as well as regulatory support

for introducing the end products into the

market.

■ Provide cost-effective solutions for your

technical needs

■ Train our sales and technical people to

facilitate a better dialogue with you

■ Offer testing services which include:

▪ Formulation development or optimisation

▪ Stability testing

▪ Microbiological testing

▪ Safety testing

▪ Efficacy testing

This information and all technical and other advice is based on Grolman’s present knowledge and experience. However, Grolman assumes no liability for such information or advice, including the extent to which such information or advice may relate to third-party intellectual property rights. Grolman reserves the right to make any changes to information or advice at any time, without prior or subsequent notice. Grolman disclaims all representations and warranties, whether express or implied, and shall have no liability for the merchantability of the product or its fitness for a particular purpose (even if Grolman is aware of such purpose), or otherwise. Grolman shall not be responsible for consequential, indirect or incidental damages (including loss of profit) of any kind. It is the customer’s sole responsibility to arrange for the inspection and testing of all products by qualified experts. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation nor an endorsement of the corresponding product, and does not imply that similar products could not be used.

Grolman1855

International Distribution

ALGERIA

Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]

AUSTRIA

Grolman Chemikalien Handelsges. mbHTel +43 (662) 87 25 62 [email protected]

BELGIUM

Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 50 [email protected] BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] BULGARIA

Grolman EOODTel +359 (2) 9 89 76 45 [email protected] CROATIA

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] CZECH REPUBLIC

Grolman, s.r.o.Tel +420 (2) 51 55 32 33 [email protected] DENMARK

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected] ESTONIA

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] FINLAND

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected]

FRANCE

Grolman S.A.S.Tel +33 (4) 77 55 79 [email protected]

GERMANY

Gustav Grolman GmbH & Co. KGTel +49 (2131) 93 [email protected]

GREECE

Grolman E.P.E.Tel +30 (211) 1 98 51 40 [email protected]

HUNGARY

Grolman Kft.Tel +36 (23) 88 40 [email protected] ICELAND

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] IRELAND

Grolman Ltd.Tel +44 (1291) 62 52 [email protected] ITALY

Grolman S.r.l.Tel +39 (039) 9 28 03 25 [email protected] LATVIA

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected] LITHUANIA

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 00 [email protected]

LUXEMBOURG

Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 50 [email protected] MACEDONIA

Grolman EOODTel +359 (2) 9 89 76 45 [email protected]

MOLDOVA

Grolman RomaniaTel +40 (21) 7 45 60 [email protected] MONTENEGRO

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] MOROCCO

Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]

THE NETHERLANDS

Grolman Benelux BVTel +31 (547) 35 70 [email protected]

NORWAY

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected]

POLAND

Grolman Sp. z o.o.Tel +48 (22) 3 93 11 [email protected] PORTUGAL

Grolman, Lda.Tel +351 (22) 9 4310 [email protected]

ROMANIA

Grolman RomaniaTel +40 (21) 7 45 60 [email protected] SERBIA

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 [email protected] SLOVAKIA

Grolman, s.r.o.Tel +420 (2) 51 55 32 33 [email protected] SLOVENIA

Grolman d.o.o.Tel +385 (1) 5 50 83 80 [email protected] SPAIN

Grolman Iberia, S.L.Tel +34 (93) 7 50 67 61 [email protected] SWEDEN

Grolman Nordic ASTel +47 22 51 10 [email protected] SWITZERLAND

Grolman AGTel +41 (61) 5 85 10 [email protected] TUNESIA

Grolman Maghreb, SARLTel +212 (522) 49 73 [email protected]

TURKEY

Grolman Kimya Tic. Ltd. Şti.Tel +90 (216) 9 11 83 [email protected] UNITED KINGDOM

Grolman Ltd.Tel +44 (1291) 62 52 [email protected]

International Locations

©2018 Gustav Grolman GmbH & Co. KG | V1 04/18www.grolman-personalcare.com

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