PC-9 semi Scale ARF Model Hand-made Almost Ready to Fly R/C Model

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Specifications Wingspan---------------------------------------60.63in, 1540mm. Wing area--------------------------------610 sq.in, 37.04sq.dm. Fuselage length--------------------------------43.7in, 1110mm. Approximate flying weight---------5.5-5.95lbs, 2500-2700g. Recommended engine size---------.40-.58 cu.in. 2-stroke. ----------------------------------------------.50-.72 cu.in. 4-stroke. Recommended R/C-----------------------4 channel minimum. Flying skill level-------------------------Intermediate/advanced. Kit features. Ready-made—minimal assembly & finishing required. Factory-installed pushrods. Comprehensive hardware pack including wheels, tank, undercarriage & spinner. Photo-illustrated step-by-step Assembly Manual. Hand-made Hand-made Hand-made Hand-made Hand-made Almost R Almost R Almost R Almost R Almost Read ead ead ead eady to F y to F y to F y to F y to Fly R/C Model y R/C Model y R/C Model y R/C Model y R/C Model Aircraft Aircraft Aircraft Aircraft Aircraft ASSEMBL ASSEMBL ASSEMBL ASSEMBL ASSEMBLY MANU Y MANU Y MANU Y MANU Y MANUAL AL AL AL AL Additional items required. Engine. 4 Channel or greater Radio Control system. Glues. Tools. Starting Equipment. Made in Vietnam. PC-9 semi Scale ARF Model MS:12

Transcript of PC-9 semi Scale ARF Model Hand-made Almost Ready to Fly R/C Model

Page 1: PC-9 semi Scale ARF Model Hand-made Almost Ready to Fly R/C Model

SpecificationsWingspan---------------------------------------60.63in, 1540mm.Wing area--------------------------------610 sq.in, 37.04sq.dm.Fuselage length--------------------------------43.7in, 1110mm.Approximate flying weight---------5.5-5.95lbs, 2500-2700g.Recommended engine size---------.40-.58 cu.in. 2-stroke.----------------------------------------------.50-.72 cu.in. 4-stroke.Recommended R/C-----------------------4 channel minimum.Flying skill level-------------------------Intermediate/advanced.

Kit features.

• Ready-made—minimal assembly & finishing required.• Factory-installed pushrods.• Comprehensive hardware pack including wheels, tank, undercarriage & spinner.• Photo-illustrated step-by-step Assembly Manual.

Hand-made Hand-made Hand-made Hand-made Hand-made Almost RAlmost RAlmost RAlmost RAlmost Readeadeadeadeady to Fy to Fy to Fy to Fy to Fllllly R/C Modely R/C Modely R/C Modely R/C Modely R/C ModelAircraftAircraftAircraftAircraftAircraft

ASSEMBLASSEMBLASSEMBLASSEMBLASSEMBLY MANUY MANUY MANUY MANUY MANUALALALALAL

Additional items required.Engine.4 Channel or greater Radio Control system.Glues.Tools.Starting Equipment.

Made in Vietnam.

PC-9 semi Scale ARF Model

MS:12

Page 2: PC-9 semi Scale ARF Model Hand-made Almost Ready to Fly R/C Model

INTRODUCTION.

Thank you for choosing the PC-9 ARTF by SEAGULL MODELS. The PC-9 was designed withthe intermediate/advanced sport flyer in mind. It is a low-wing scale aeroplane which is easy to flyand quick to assemble. The airframe is conventionally built using balsa, plywood and veneer to makeit stronger than the average ARTF , yet the design allows the aeroplane to be kept light. You will findthat most of the work has been done for you already. The pushrods are pre-made to the correctlengths, the motor mount has been fitted and the hinges are pre-installed and pinned for security.Flying the PC-9 is simply a joy.

This instruction manual is designed to help you build a great flying aeroplane. Please read thismanual thoroughly before starting assembly of your PC-9 . Use the parts listing below to identify allparts.

WARNING.

Please be aware that this aeroplane is not a toy and if assembled or used incorrectly it is capableof causing injury to people or property. WHEN YOU FLY THIS AEROPLANE YOU ASSUME ALLRISK & RESPONSIBILITY.

If you are inexperienced with basic R/C flight we strongly recommend you contact your R/Csupplier and join your local R/C Model Flying Club. R/C Model Flying Clubs offer a variety of trainingprocedures designed to help the new pilot on his way to successful R/C flight. They will also be ableto advise on any insurance and safety regulations that may apply.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.

* .40-.58 2-stroke engine.* .50-.72 4-stroke engine.* 4-channel radio with five servos.* Glow plug to suit engine.* Propeller to suit engine.* Protective foam rubber for radiosystem.* Silicone fuel line.* Stick-on weights for balance

(If necessary).

TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED.

* Thick cyanoacrylate glue.* 30 minute epoxy.* 6 minute epoxy.* Hand or electric drill.* Assorted drill bits.* Modelling knife.* Straight edge ruler.* 2mm ball driver.* Phillips head screwdriver.* 220 grit sandpaper.* 90° square or builder’s triangle.* Wire cutters.* Masking tape & T-pins.* Thread-lock / Paper towels.

PARTS LISTING.

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY* (1) Fuselage.* (1) Pre-installed throttle pushrod &tube.* (1) Pre-installed servo tray.

WING ASSEMBLY

* (1) Right wing half with pre-installed aileron.* (1) Left wing half with pre-installedaileron.* (1) Aluminium wing dihedralbrace.

TAIL SECTION ASSEMBLY

* (1) Vertical stabilizer with pre-installed rudder.* (1) Horizontal stabilizer with pre-installed elevator halves.

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NOTE: To avoid scratching your new aero-plane we suggest that you coveryour workbench with an old towel.Keep a couple of jars or bowls handyto hold the small parts after you openthe bags.Please trial fit all parts. Make sureyou have the correct parts and thatthey fit and are aligned properly be-fore gluing! This will ensure properassembly as the PC-9 is made fromnatural materials and minor adjust-ments may have to be made.The paint and plastic parts used inthis kit are fuel proof. However, theyare not tolerant of many harsh chemi-cals including the following: paintthinner, cyano-acrylate glue accel-erator, cyanoacrylate glue de-bonderand acetone. Do not let these chemi-cals come in contact with the colourson the covering and the plastic parts.

! 4)Deflect the aileron and completelysaturate each hinge with thin C/A glue. Theailerons front surface should lightly contact thewing during this procedure. Ideally, when the

The control surfaces, including theailerons, elevators, and rudder, areprehinged with hinges installed, but thehinges are not glued in place. It isimperative that you properly adhere thehinges in place per the steps that followusing a high-quality thin C/A glue.

! 1) Carefully remove the aileron from one ofthe wing panels. Note the position of the hinges.

! 2) Remove each hinge from the wing paneland aileron and place a T-pin in the center ofeach hinge. Slide each hinge into the aileronuntil the T-pin is snug against the aileron. Thiswill help ensure an equal amount of hinge ison either side of the hinge line when the aileronis mounted to the wing panel.

HINGING THE AILERONS.

Note:

! 3) Slide the aileron on the wing panel untilthere is only a slight gap. The hinge is nowcentered on the wing panel and aileron.Remove the T-pins and snug the aileronagainst the wing panel. A gap of 1/64” or lessshould be maintained between the wing paneland aileron.

Hinge.

T-pin.

T-pin.

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! 8) After both ailerons are securely hinged,firmly grasp the wing panel and aileron tomake sure the hinges are securely glued andcannot be pulled out. Do this by carefullyapplying medium pressure, trying to separatethe aileron from the wing panel. Use cautionnot to crush the wing structure.

! 7) Repeat this process with the other wingpanel, securely hinging the aileron in place.

! 5) Turn the wing panel over and deflect theaileron in the opposite direction from theopposite side. Apply thin C/A glue to eachhinge, making sure that the C/A penetrates intoboth the aileron and wing panel.

! 6) Using C/A remover/debonder and apaper towel, remove any excess C/A glue thatmay have accumulated on the wing or in theaileron hinge area.

The hinge is constructed of a specialmaterial that allows the C/A to wick orpenetrate and distribute throughout thehinge, securely bonding it to the woodstructure of the wing panel and aileron.

hinges are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or lesswill be maintained throughout the lengh of theaileron to the wing panel hinge line.

Note:

C/A glue.

Work the aileron up and down severaltimes to “work in” the hinges and checkfor proper movement.

Glue the elevator hinges in place using thesame tectniques used to hinge the ailerons.

HINGING THE ELEVATOR.

Note:

C/A glue.

C/A glue.

Apply epoxy glue.

Metal wire.

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WING ASSEMBLY.

! 1) Locate the wing dihedral brace. Using aruler, locate its centre and draw a vertical line.

We highly recommend using 30 minuteepoxy as it is stronger and provides moreworking time, allowing the builder to properlyalign the parts. Using fast cure epoxy whenjoining the wing halves could result in the gluedrying before the wing halves are alignedproperly which may result in failure of the wingcentre section during flight.

HINGING THE RUDDER.

Glue the elevator hinges in place using thesame tectniques used to hinge the ailerons.

! 2) Test fit the dihedral brace into each winghalf. The brace should slide in easily up to thecentreline that you drew.

Carefully slide the two wing halves togetherand firmly press them together, allowing theexcess epoxy to run out. There should not beany gap in the wing halves. Use rubbingalcohol and a paper tower to clean up anyexcess epoxy.

Apply masking tape at the wing join to holdthe wing halves together securely.

Dihedral brace.

Centre line.

! 3) Remove the brace when satisfied withits fit in each wing half. Coat dihedral bracewith 30 minute epoxy. Next, pour some epoxyinto the dihedral box in one wing panel.

! 4) Peel off the backing from the selfadhesive covering strip. Apply the strip to thecentre section of the wing starting from thebottom trailing edge. Wrap the strip all the wayaround the wing until it meets the trailing edgeagain. Trim off any excess strip.

Epoxy.

Masking tape.

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Small weight.

Thread.

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS.

! 1) Install the rubber grommets and brasscollets onto the aileron servo. Test fit theservo into the aileron servo mount.

Smallweight.

Servo.

Thread.

Remove covering.

Glue attached.

! 3) Attach servo lead to the aileron servo.Attach the string to the servo lead and care-fully thread it though the wing. Once you havethread the lead throught the wing, remove thestring so it can use for the other servo lead.

Because the size of servos differ, youmay need to adjust the size of the precut

opening in the mount. The notch in the sidesof the mount allow the servo lead to passthrough.

Secure the servos with the screws pro-vided from your radio system.

! 2) Using a small weight (Weighted fuelpick-up works well) and thread, feed the stringthrough the wing as indicated.

Thread.

Small weight.

Thread.

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2mm X 20mm.

Control Horn.

Mounting Screws. Mounting Plate.

! 4) Tape the servo lead to the wing to pre-vent it from falling back into the wing.

! 5) Reinstall the servo into the servo mountand secure the servo inplace using the woodscrews provided with you radio system.

Thread.

Plastic tape.

! 2) Locate the two nylon control horns,two nylon control horn backplates and fourmachine screws.

! 3) Position the aileron horn on the bottomside of aileron. The clevis attachment holesshould be positioned over the hinge line.

Pen.

Straight line.

Repeat the procedure for the other winghalf.

! 1) Using a ruler & pen to draw a straightline as below picture.

AILERON LINKAGE.

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Cut.

! 4) Using a 1mm drill bit and the controlhorns as a guide, drill the mounting holesthrough the aileron halves.

! 6) Thread one nylon adjustable controlhorn onto each aileron control rod. Thread thehorns on until they are flush with the ends ofthe control rods.

! 5) Mount the control horns by inserting thescrews through the control horn bases andaileron halves, then into the mountingbackplates. Do not overtighten the screws orthe backplates may crush the wood.

! 7) With the aileron servo centered andthe aileron even with the trailing edge of thewing attach the clevis to the control horn. Markthe control wire where it crosses the servoarm hole.

! 8) Make a 90-degree bend at the markand cut off the excess wire leaving 10mm pastthe bend.

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WIRES.

! 1) Using a modeling knife, remove thecovering from over the two main gear mount-ing slots located in the bottom of the wing.

! 9) Connect the linkage as shown andsecure the control wire with a wire keeper.

Repeat the procedure for the otheraileron servo.

! 2) Insert the 90º bend of one main gearwire into the predrilled hole in one mountingslot.

Remove covering.

Pen.

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! 6) Reinstall the gear wire and install thestraps using the four 3mm x 12mm woodscrews. Tighten the screws completely to se-cure the gear wire in place.

! 7) Slide one wheel collar with 3mm x6mm set screw onto each axle. Push thewheel collars on as far as they will go andtighten the set screws.

Be careful not to overtighten the setscrews. Overtightening may cause the

threads to strip.

! 3) The landing gear wire is held in placeusing two nylon landing gear straps and four3mm x 12mm wood screws.

The straps should be located equal dis-tance from the inside and outside ends

of the wire.

! 4) Using the two landing gear straps as aguide, mark the locations of the four 3mm x12mm mounting screws onto the wing sur-face.

! 5) Remove the two straps and the gearwire. Drill four 3/32” pilot holes into the wingfor the wood screws. Be careful do not to drill through thetop of the wing!

! 8) Slide one 60mm diameter wheel ontoeach axle and push them up against the wheelcollars. Slide the remaining wheel collars with3mm x 6mm set screws onto the axles. Pushthem up against the wheels and tighten theset screws. The wheels should spin free andnot bind in any way. If they do bind, loosen theset screws in the outer wheel collars and movethe collars out a small amount. Retighten theset screws.

NOSE GEAR INSTALLATION.

Adjust the nose gear steering arm until thearm is parallel with the fire wall.

Installing steering arm as below.

Steering arm.

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Install the pushrod wire as shown.

AdjustableConnector.

Slide one 60mm diameter wheel collar ontothe axle and tighten. Slide the nose wheel onand push it up against the wheel collar. Slidethe remaining wheel collar on and push it upagainst the wheel and tighten the set screw.The wheels should spin free and not bind inany way.

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WHEEL.

! 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully cutoff the rear portion of one of the two nylon tubesleaving 1/2” protruding from the rear of thestopper. This will be the fuel pick up tube.

! 2) Using a modeling knife, cut one lengthof silicon fuel line (not included) to 2-1/4” long.Connect one end of the line to the weightedfuel pickup and the other end to the nylonpickup tube.

! 3) Carefully bend the second nylon tubeup at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube.

INSTALLING THE STOPPER ASSEMBLY.

FUEL TANK.

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! 4) Carefully heat the vent tube using aheat gun or lighter to permanently set theangle of the tube.

When the stopper assembly is installed inthe tank, the top of the vent tube should restjust below the top surface of the tank. It shouldnot touch the top of the tank.

! 5) Test fit the stopper assembly into thetank. It may be necessary to remove some ofthe flashing around the tank opening using amodeling knife. If flashing is present, makesure none falls into the tank.

! 6) With the stopper assembly in place,the weighted pickup should rest about 3/8”away from the rear of the tank and move freelyinside the tank. The top of the vent tube shouldrest just below the top of the tank. It shouldnot touch the top of the tank.

! 7) When satisfied with the alignment ofthe stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mmmachine screw until the rubber stopper ex-pands and seals the tank opening. Do notovertighten the assembly as this could causethe tank to split.

Using a modeling knife, cut one length offuel line 20” long. Connect one line to the venttube and one line to the fuel pick up tube onthe stopper. See picture bellow.

INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK.

Pushrod wire.

Plastic tape.

Blow through the tubes to make sure thelines have not become kinked duringinstallation.

Pull.

Vent tube. Fuel PickupTube.

Fuel Fill Tube.

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MOUNTING THE ENGINE.

! 1) Trial fit your engine on the motor mount.The engine should be positioned so there isample clearance in the cowling for spinnerbackplate mounted to the prop drive shaft.

! 2) Marking 4 points on the plastic motormount.

! 3) Screw 4 pilot holes with 2.5 mm diam-eter

Fuel fill tube.

Fuel pickuptube.

Vent tube.

! 4) Secure your engine on the motor mountby mounting with 4 machine screws.

2.5mm.

3mm X 25mm.

! 5) Attach the Z-Bend in the pushrod wireto the throttle arm on the carburetor. You willneed to remove the throttle arm from the car-buretor to be able to attach the Z-bend. Whencomplete, reattach the throttle arm to the car-buretor.

Pushrod wire.

11cm.

Fuel tank.

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Trim and cut.

COWLING.

! 1) Slide the fiberglass cowl over the en-gine and line up the back edge of the cowl withthe marks you made on the fuselage

Trim and cut.

! 4) Remove the cowl. Using a 5/64” drillbit, enlarge the holes in only the four cowlblocks.

! 5) Using a 1/8” drill bit. Enlarging the holesthrough the cowl will prevent the fiberglassfrom splitting when the mounting screws areinstalled.

! 6) Slide the cowl back over the engine andsecure it in place using four 3mm x 12mmwood screws. See picture below.

Because of the diameter of the cowl, itmay be necessary to use a needle valve ex-tension for the high speed needle valve. Makethis out of sufficient length 1.5mm wire and in-stall it into the end of the needle valve. Se-cure the wire in place by tightening the setscrew in the side of the needle valve.

! 7) Install the muffler and muffler extensiononto the engine and make the cutout in thecowl for muffler clearance. Connect the fueland pressure lines to the carburetor, mufflerand fuel filler valve.

! 2) While keeping the back edge of thecowl flush with the marks, align the front ofthe cowl with the crankshaft of the engine. Thefront of the cowl should be positioned so thecrankshaft is in the middle of the cowl open-ing. Hold the cowl firmly in place using piecesof masking tape.

! 3) While holding the cowl firmly in posi-tion, drill four 1/16” pilot holes through both thecowl and through the mounting blocks.

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INSTALLING THE SPINNER.

Install the spinner backplate, propellerand spinner cone. The spinner cone is held inplace using two 3mm x 12mm wood screws.

The propeller should not touch any partof the spinner cone. If it does, use a

sharp modeling knife and carefully trim awaythe spinner cone where the propeller comesin contact with it.

! 1) Install the switch into the precut holein the servo tray, in the fuselage, from the bot-tom. Use the two screws provided with theswitch to secure it in place. Drill two 3/32”holes through the tray for the screws to passthrough.

! 2) Using a 3/32” drill bit, drill a holethrough the side of the fuselage, opposite themuffler, even with the switch.

INSTALLING THE SWITCH.

! 3) Make a push-pull lever out of scrapwire. Attach the wire to the switch lever androute the wire out the side of the fuselage,through the hole you drilled.

Some switches come with a hole drilledthrough the switch tab for this very pur-

pose. If your switch does not, remove theswitch and drill a 3/32” hole through the middleof the switch tab.

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! 1) Install the rubber grommets and brasscollets onto the elevator, rudder and throttleservos. Test fit the servos into the preinstalledservo tray. Because the size of servos dif-fer, you may need to adjust the size of theprecut openings in the tray.

! 2) Position the servos into the servo traywith the output shafts orientated as shownbelow. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the trayfor each of the mounting screws.

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS.

Secure the servos with the screws pro-vided from your radio system.

! 1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate thecenterline of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trail-ing edge, and place a mark. Use a triangleand extend this mark, from back to front,across the top of the stabilizer. Also extendthis mark down the back of the trailing edge ofthe stabilizer.

ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER.

! 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully re-move the covering from over the vertical sta-bilizer mounting slot in the top of the fuselage.

! 4) When you are satisfied with the align-ment, hold the stabilizer in place with T- pinsor masking tape, but do not glue at this time.

MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER.

! 1) With the stabilizer held firmly in place,use a pen and draw lines onto the stabilizerwhere it and the fuselage sides meet. Do thison both the right and left sides and top andbottom of the stabilizer.

! 2) Remove the stabilizer. Using the linesyou just drew as a guide, carefully remove thecovering from between them using a model-ing knife.

When cutting through the covering to re-move it, cut with only enough pressure

to only cut through the covering itself. Cuttinginto the balsa structure may weaken it.

Remove covering.

! 3) Using a modeling knife, carefully re-move the covering that overlaps the stabilizermounting platform sides in the fuselage. Re-move the covering from both the top and thebottom of the platform sides.

! 4) When you are sure that everything isaligned correctly, mix up a generous amountof 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to thetop and bottom of the stabilizer mounting areaand to the stabilizer mounting platform sides

Draw center line.

Pen.

! 3) Slide the stabilizer into place in the pre-cut slot in the rear of the fuselage. The stabi-lizer should be pushed firmly against the frontof the slot.

Throttle.Elevator.

Rudder. Switch.

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! 1) Using a modeling knife, remove thecovering from over the precut hinge slot cutinto the lower rear portion of the fuselage. Thisslot accepts the lower rudder hinge.

VERTICAL STABILIZERINSTALLATION.

Hinge slot.

! 5) After the epoxy has fully cured, re-move the masking tape or T-pins used to holdthe stabilizer in place. Carefully inspect theglue joints. Use more epoxy to fill in any gapsthat may exist that were not filled previouslyand clean up the excess using a paper toweland rubbing alcohol.

in the fuselage. Slide the stabilizer in placeand realign. Double check all of your mea-surements once more before the epoxy cures.Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or mask-ing tape and remove any excess epoxy usinga paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

! 2) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the slotin the top of the fuselage. The rear edge ofthe stabilizer should be flush with the rear edgeof the fuselage and the lower rudder hingeshould engage the precut hinge slot in thelower fuselage. The bottom edge of the stabi-lizer should also be firmly pushed against thetop of the horizontal stabilizer.

! 3) While holding the vertical stabilizerfirmly in place, use a pen and draw a line oneach side of the vertical stabilizer where itmeets the top of the fuselage.

When cutting through the covering to re-move it, cut with only enough pressure to onlycut through the covering itself. Cutting intothe balsa structure may weaken it.

! 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a mod-elling knife, remove the covering from belowthe lines you drew. Also remove the coveringfrom the bottom edge of the stabilizer and thebottom and top edges of the filler block. Leavethe covering in place on the sides of the fillerblock.

Pen.

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top edges of the filler block and to the lowerhinge also. Set the stabilizer in place and re-align. Double check all of your measurementsonce more before the epoxy cures. Hold thestabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tapeand remove any excess epoxy using a papertowel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy tofully cure before proceeding

CONTROL HORN INSTALLATION.

! 1) Locate the two nylon control horns, twonylon control horn backplates and four 2 x20mm machine screws.

! 2) Position the two elevator horns on thebottom side of each elevator. The clevis at-tach- ment holes should be positioned overthe hinge line.

2mm X 20mm.

! 4) Mount the control horns by insertingthe screws through the control horn bases andeleva- tor halves, then into the mountingbackplates. Do not overtighten the screws orthe backplates may crush the wood.

! 5) Position the rudder control horn on theleft side of the airplane.

! 6) Install the rudder control horn using thesame method as with the elevator controlhorns.

! 3) Using a 5/64" drill bit and the controlhorns as a guide, drill the mounting holesthrough the elevator halves.

Control Horn.

Mounting Screws. Mounting Plate.

! 5) Slide the vertical stabilizer back inplace. Using a triangle, check to ensure thatthe vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the hori-zontal stabilizer.

! 6) When you are sure that everything isaligned correctly, mix up a generous amount ofFlash 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to themounting slot in the top of the fuselage and tothe sides and bottom of the vertical stabilizermounting area. Apply epoxy to the bottom and.

90º

VerticalStabilizer.Horizontal

Stabilizer.

Remove covering.

Left side.

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ELEVATOR-RUDDER PUSHRODINSTALLATION.

Elevator pushrod.

Control horn. Rudder pushrod.

Clevis.

! 1) Plug the five servo leads and the switchlead into the receiver. Plug the battery packlead into the switch also.

! 2) Wrap the receiver and battery pack inthe protective foam rubber to protect themfrom vibration

INSTALLING THE RECEIVER AND BATTERY.

! 3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole throughthe side of the fuselage, near the receiver, forthe antenna to exit. Route the antenna out ofthe fuselage and secure it to the vertical stabi-lizer using a rubber band and a modified servoarm. See picture as below.

Antenna.RubberBand.

ModifiedServo Arm.

Cut.

ATTACHMENT WING - FUSELAGE.

See picture below:

BALANCING.! 1) It is critical that your airplane be bal-anced correctly. Improper balance will causeyour plane to lose control and crash. The cen-ter of gravity is located 8-9.5cm back from theleading edge of the wing, at the fuselage sides.Balance the PC-9 upside down with the fueltank empty.

! 2) Mount the wing to the fuselage. Usinga couple of pieces of masking tape, place themon the top side of the wing 8cm back from theleading edge, at the fuselage sides.

! 3) Turn the airplane upside down. Placeyour fingers on the masking tape and care-fully lift the plane.

Switch.Rudder.

Throttle.

Elevator.

Receiver.

Battery.Tie wrap.

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! 4) If the nose of the plane falls, the planeis nose heavy. To correct this first move thebattery pack further back in the fuselage. Ifthis is not possible or does not correct it, sticksmall amounts of lead weight on the fuselagesides under the horizontal stabilizer. If the tailof the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy. Tocorrect this, move the battery and receiverforward orif this is not possible, stick weightonto the firewall. When balanced correctly, theairplane should sit level or slightly nose downwhen you lift it up with your fingers.

PREFLIGHT CHECK.

! 1) Completely charge your transmitterand receiver batteries before your first day offlying.

! 2) Check every bolt and every glue jointin the PC-9 to ensure that everything is tightand well bonded.

We wish you many safe and enjoyableflights with your PC-9.

! 8) Properly balance the propeller. An outof balance propeller will cause excessive vi-bration which could lead to engine and/or air-frame failure.

! 3) Double check the balance of the air-plane. Do this with the fuel tank empty.

! 4) Check the control surfaces. All shouldmove in the correct direction and not bind inany way.

! 5) If your radio transmitter is equippedwith dual rate switches double check that theyare on the low rate setting for your first fewflights.

! 6) Check to ensure the control surfacesare moving the proper amount for both lowand high rate settings.

! 7) Check the receiver antenna. It shouldbe fully extended and not coiled up inside thefuselage.

CONTROL THROWS.

! 1) We highly recommend setting up thePC-9 using the control throws listed below. Wehave listed control throws for both initial testflying/sport flying and aerobatic flying.

! 2) Turn on the radio system, and with thetrim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, centerthe control surfaces by making adjustmentsto the clevises or adjustable servo connectors.The servo arms should be centered also.

! 3) When the elevator, rudder and aileroncontrol surfaces are centered, use a ruler andcheck the amount of the control throw in eachsurface. The control throws should bemeasured at the widest point of each sur-face!

INITIAL FLYING/SPORT FLYING

Ailerons: 3/16” up 3/16” downElevator: 5/16” up 5/16” downRudder: 3/4” right 3/4” left

AEROBATIC FLYING

Ailerons: 3/8” up 3/8” downElevator: 5/8” up 5/8” downRudder: 1-1/4” right 1-1/4” left

Do not use the aerobatic settings forinitial test flying or sport flying.

! 4) By moving the position of the adjust-able control horn out from the control surface,you will decrease the amount of throw of thatcontrol surface. Moving the adjustable con-trol horn toward the control surface will in-crease the amount of throw.