Overseas Chinese-American Foods

Alan A. LewDept. of Geography, Planning & Recreation

Northern Arizona University, USAhttp://alanalew.com

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Asian Studies ProgramNorthern Arizona University

December 4, 2013

NEW: Humans Are Becoming More Carnivorous w/China + India

Chinese Americans

• 3.35 million in 2010– Largest Asian

population in the US– 38% increase over 2000

• More Diabetes & Heart Diseases than Chinese in Asia

– probably due, in part, to different diets

• Traditional Chinese Diet: – High fiber, Low saturated fat, Well-balanced

• After US immigration: – Western eating habits– AND Traditional Chinese eating habits

Chinese or American ?

Immigrant Chinese (1st generation)

• Immersed in Chinese culture prior to migration to the US– Shapes interaction with American

culture• Adopting some American traits• Dropping some Chinese traits

• “Chineseness” = Degree of Dropping or Keeping Chinese Cultural Traits

• Some drop more than others• May re-adopt with older age Liu/Lau/Lew Family

Association, Chinatown, San Francisco

American or Chinese?

“ABC” – American Born Chinese (2nd + … generations)

• Immersed in both American and Chinese culture from birth

– Chinese culture = Family Chinese community Chinese food

– American culture = SchoolWork FriendsPublic settings

• “Chineseness” = degree of engagement with Chinese culture

– Some engage more than others – May engage more with older age

Chinatown, San Francisco

Ways of “Performing” Chineseness

1. Chinese Language Ability

2. Affiliate with Chinese People

3. Participate in Chinese Activities

4. Pride in Chinese Heritage

5. Exposure to Chinese Culture

6. Preference for Chinese Food

(Tsai, et al. 2000)

ABC - Food &Acculturation

- 20 First Generation Chinese Couples in Pennsylvania- At least 1 child age 5+ enrolled in a Chinese school

• Results: (1) Chinese American Families eat:

• Breakfast: Convenient American food• Lunch & Dinner at Home: Chinese food• Meals away from home: Children prefer Western foods

(2) Family Food Conflicts• Children’s Preference for Western Foods• Children’s Dislike of Vegetables• Father’s Food Preference – had biggest impact on Chinese/Western conflicts

• Implications:1. Primary contrast with Western convenience/fast foods2. Demonstrate engagement with Chineseness through Chinese meals3. Impose Chineseness on children through parental power

(Lu & Brown, 2010)

Asian Grocery Store, Mesa,

Arizona

Chinese and Indian Vegetables at Lee Lee Market in north Phoenix, AZ

Food & Travel Neophobics vs Neophyllics (Cohen 1979)

Fear of Newness vs. Love of Newness

• 1. Recreational/Mass Tourists (passive hedonists)– Seek relaxation & enjoyment– No interest in local food authenticity

• 2. Sightseeing Tourists (gazing on “others”)– Interested in local dishes & food habits– Might try local food in a “safe” tourism settings

• 3. Experimental/Participatory/Adventure tourists (trying local life)– Try local foods in local establishments

• 4. Existential/Identity tourists (adopting local life)– Subsist on local food– Culinary ‘‘switching worlds’’

A dish for Experimental& Existential

Food Neophyllics at the Great Wall Restaurant,

Phoenix, AZ

A Typology of U.S. Overseas Chinese Foods

1. “Chinese American” Foods– Safe for Food Neophobics

- Recreational & Sightseeing Foodies

2. “Real Chinese” Foods– More Authentic (similar to China)

- Desired by Food Neophyllics- Adventure & Identity Foodies

3. “American Chinese” Foods– Home Cooked Chinese dishes

- Not common in restaurants

3 Types of U.S. Overseas Chinese Foods

Similarity to China Restaurant Foods Home Foods

Less 1. Chinese American

3. American Chinese

More 2. Real Chinese

Typology of US Overseas Chinese Foods

1. Chinese American Foods– Safe for food neophobic Recreational & Sightseeing Foodies– Chinese & American Fusion

• since 19th c. in railroad & mining towns of the western US• Chop Suey (‘Tsa Sui’), Sweet & Sour Pork, Orange Chicken,

Fried Wontons, Fortune Cookies– Non-Chinese and “Banana” & “Twinkie” ABCs

Orange Chicken

& Fried Rice

(1) Chinese American Foods

Early Chinese Food in the US (1849-1900)• Stir- fried, rice-based Cantonese food• Used every part of the animal

= not palatable to Americans • Very basic establishments

– for railroad & mining camp workers

By the 1920s• Chinese restaurants throughout U.S. • Foods adjusted to US palate• Separate English menu & Chinese menus

“Chinese-American cuisine is 'dumbed- down' Chinese food. It’s adapted... to be blander, thicker and sweeter for the American public.” Ming Tsai, Blue Ginger restaurant owner,

Wellesley, Massachusetts

First Chinese Buffet opened in San Francisco in 1850

Ethnic Food Preferences in the U.S.

(1) Chinese American Foods

Typical 100% Chinese AmericanRestaurant Foods

Mainland China Restaurant Foods

- Vegetables as minor part of meal: mostly carrots, broccoli, cabbage & onions- Meat is focus of the meal- Sweet, sticky sauces, often with tomatoes- Much more soy sauce- Fried rice & brown rice are more common- Thick flour battered meat that is deep fried

- Vegetables are major dishes: diversity of leafy vegetable & roots- Meat in small pieces, except fish- Greater variety of sauces- More soups, especially with herbs- White rice only - more “fluffy”- Fried rice & thick battered meat is rare

- Mostly stir frying & deep frying with a wok- Huge, but stable menu covering different regions of China, though mostly Cantonese- Very few innovations

- Much more steaming & boiling- Focus on single regional food or specialty food- Frequent food innovations & fusions

- Fortune Cookies - Chinese takeout boxes - Cantonese Romanization & translation

- Family-style eating- Less takeout- Translations are rare

Typology of US Overseas Chinese Foods

1. Chinese American Foods

2. “Real Chinese” Foods– Desired by Food Neophyllics,

Adventure & Identity Foodies & many ABCs

– “Yellow Fever”, “Egg” & “Pineapple” Non-Chinese

– High “Authenticity” Chinese Foods - Similar to China• Chicken Feet, Dim Sum, Clay Pots, Peking Duck,

Tofu, Soy Milk, Roast Duck, Herbal Soups

– Ordering from the “Chinese Menu”• Even if you cannot read it!

Dried meats in Chinatown, San Francisco

(2) Real Chinese Foods & Foodies

(2) Real Chinese Foods

More “Authentic” to China & Hong Kong– Immigrant enclaves in large U.S. cities– Formal Chinese Banquets

• Weddings & Elder Birthdays– “Dim Sum” - allows experimenting

Culinary Authenticity– Objective Authenticity

• (1) Reproductions of Heritage Dishes – Family traditions

• (2) Reproductions from Homeland– Subjective Authenticity

• Personally Perceived as an Authentic Food

– Existential/Experiential Authenticity• Peak, Euphoric, or even Spiritual,

Food Experiences– Independent of Objective or Subjective authenticity measures

A Pot Sticker (gyoza) restaurant in

Phoenix, Arizona

Dim Sum:- Siu mai (pork &

shrimp dumplings)- Spare ribs in black

bean sauce- Chicken feet

Restaurant Ratings & U.S. Chinese Food Types

Similarity to China Restaurant Foods Home Foods

Less 1. Chinese American

3. American Chinese

More 2. Real Chinese

• Ethnic Chinese Reviewers- Compare to Hong Kong & China

• Non-Chinese Reviewers- Compare to “Chinese American” Restaurants- Food Neophyllics – compare to New York or Los Angeles

ChineseFoodMap.com

This website is for Chinese people to rate Chinese restaurants in the U.S.

This note warns Chinese readers that the reviews for this restaurant are from English language source and do not reflect Chinese tastes. The English translation is via Google translate.

This review was written entirely in Chinese (right). It is translate by Google translate (Left and below).

Examples of “Real Chinese Food” – yes, including boba/pearl drinks, which originated in Taiwan

Typology of US Overseas Chinese Foods

1. Chinese American Foods 2. Authentic Chinese Foods

3. American Chinese Foods– Home-cooked Chinese dishes – Not common in restaurants– More regional dishes

• reflect homeland of 1st Generation immigrant ancestors

– Most authentic foods of Chinese living in the US?Ancestral offering

These photos represent food commonly eaten at home by Toisan(Taishan) immigrants – which is where my ancestors are from.

(3) ABC Home Foods

The (Post)Modern Human Condition1. Rapid & Constant Global Change:

– Creates Uncertainty, Displacement, Lack of a Center, ‘Placelessness’• Leading to anxiety & doubt about one’s identity (Ong, 1999)

2. Continually emerging opportunities: (Ohmae, 2000)

– Transcending time-space barriers – Enabled new forms of global

relationships & identities

Nostalgia for an Idealized Past• Offers Sense of Connections to a larger

Social Identity • Varies from the Fake to the more Authentic

The ancestral offering become dinner for the living later in the day

(3) ABC Home Foods

Major way of engaging with Nostalgias1. Genealogy / Roots/ Identity Tourism 2. Eating Traditional Foods

… can strengthen:• Ethnic identities (race, culture)• Personal heritage identities

(family, genealogy)• Place identities (homes, travels)

- Home made whole wheat BBQ pork bun (left) and Sticky rice tamale (above)

- Pomelo, grown in Tucson, the original grapefruit (right)

Chinese-American home vegetable garden in San Diego, California

(3) ABC Home Foods

Mix of

1. Chinese American Restaurant Foods

2. Real Chinese Foods & Fusion Creations

3. Traditional Family Recipes

– Passed down from parents

Unique Foods of the Chinese in the US

• Turkey Congee

– juk/ju zi, rice porridge

Mushroom Chicken & Mustard Greens; Lotus root & Taro Pork; Turkey Congee

Steamed white water fish (bai shui yu) and other dishes

From American to Chinese through Food

… on the issue of food, our taste buds were firmly entrenched [in Western foods]. [Our Chinese parents] groused about our inability to appreciate ‘real Chinese food.’

I never really understood what ‘real Chinese food’ meant until I went to China. … I encountered a variety of cuisines that were more akin to my mom's cooking than the ones of America's Chinese restaurants: more vegetables, less meat, less oil.

I began spitting bones out onto the table and drinking watery soup after a meal to wash it all down. I even drank hot tea—no fortune cookies to be found. I began to roll my eyes at the take-out Chinese food I had grown up with; it wasn't authentic.

The Fortune Cookie Chronicles –by Jennifer Lee

For comparison, these recent photos present an example of a regional restaurant in Dali, Yunnan, China. More photos can be found on my Google+ account: google.com/+alanalew

A type of mushroom/tree fungus

Savory steamed egg

Fried caterpillars >>>

Picking vegetables for one’s meal (left); and picking out live hornets and larvae for one’s meal (right), which is an option – the larvae are eaten raw/live.

Summary

Chinese or American – 1st & 2nd (ABC) Generations– Engaging with Chineseness

through Food– Food Neophobics & Neophyllics

1. Chinese American Food = Chinese food eaten by American

Food Neophobics- Less Similar to China foods

But Authentic to the Chinese Historical Experience in the US

2. Real Chinese Food = Preferred by 1st Generations & Food Neophyllics- More Similar/Authentic to China foods

3. American Chinese Food = Regional & Family Chinese foods eaten by Chinese at Home- More Authentic to the Daily Life of Chinese in the U.S.

Chinese Fast Food at the

Central Market in Los Angeles