Our Planet Travel edition 2

| RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL FOR A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

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A ‘GREEN’ HOLIDAY!

Win!

‘life on the green road’

– a self-drive adventure

city hotels: Green engage

Tanzaniacommunity project

Fujian cycle tour

- for all seasons

Volunteer holidays

This famous pair of iconic natural wonders are not to be missed. Fully inclusive day cruises to the Great Barrier Reef,

Whitehaven Beach and other wonderful Whitsunday Islands depart daily from Airlie Beach in the Whitsundays.

Receive a 10% discount when you book two different Cruise Whitsundays’ day cruises at the same time.

For info & more wonderful Whitsunday day cruises telephone (07) 4946 [email protected]

Two of life’s must do’s

Whitehaven Beach & Hill Inlet Cruise on out through the stunning Whitsunday Islands National Park and spend the day exploring one of the world’s most famous beaches. Pure white silica sand stretches out over 7 kilometres. A guided walk is included at the northern end of the beach to Hill Inlet where you can capture your own unbelievably beautiful scenic moments. Enjoy a picnic lunch at your leisure and a memorable day at one of the World’s best beaches.

The Great Barrier Reef This is the world’s largest coral reef eco-system, with remarkable marine life and the perfect reef pontoon from which to explore. The Reefworld pontoon provides a great base for snorkelling and viewing an abundance of unique fish and colourful corals. Guests can enjoy a large sundeck, an underwater viewing chamber, marine expert presentation, semi-submersible and optional activities such as diving, massages and heli-flights. A delicious buffet lunch and snacks are all included.

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Welcome to edition 2 of Our Planet Travel!

Every time I look at my daughter I think about what the future will hold

for her… and the one thing that concerns me most is will she, and her children, be able to enjoy our incredible planet as I’ve been able to?

Every day we are bombarded with news about some new natural or manmade disaster, and it can get pretty depressing – however, there have been some great wins too for the environment recently. As I write this, the wonderful news in the last 24 hours has been the International Court of Justice upholding Australia’s bid to ban Japanese whaling in Antarctica. It just shows we should never give up trying our best – in particular to protect our oceans and marine life.

Our Planet Travel works closely with many conservation and environmental groups to promote and support responsible tourism. It never ceases to amaze me how many dedicated and inspirational people there are – and every little bit we do does make a difference.

Edition 2 of Our Planet Travel includes more great stories of people and businesses who are doing their best, from all around Australia, and the globe.

Look out for our ‘life on the green road’ campaign (see page 7) – as we start on our adventure to discover and capture images of tourism businesses and individuals, and what they are doing to live more sustainable lives. Professional photographer Katie Bennett heads off this month – follow her on our Facebook and Instagram pages, and

our website.

Don’t forget to enter our competitions. In this edition we are giving away a 2-night stay at O’Reilly’s, and a 7-day ‘green’ holiday again with Britz Rentals and Conservation Volunteers Australia.

I’d also like to acknowledge and welcome World Expeditions as our newest partner and supporter of Our Planet Travel.

Melanie Grevis-JamesEDITOR | PUBLISHER

Life on the green road. . .

Our Planet Travel magazine acknowledges and thanks our key partners.

Their support for our magazine is greatly appreciated.

Campervan. 4WD. Car Rentals

Our Planet Travel magazine is proudly printed by Finsbury Green. Finsbury Green are certified to the ISO 14001 standard for environment systems. We have saved 881kg of damaging greenhouse emissions (CO2), compared to a non-green printer. By comparison the average Australian home generates 1,333kg of CO2 per month. We have used FSC® certified MIX 70% Sumo Offset Laser paper.

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Editor’s letter

03 Editor’s letter and welcome

05 Memorable O’Reilly’s

06 Reader’s stories | Australian Tourism Awards

07 Life on the green road…

08 Adventures with Tri State Safaris

09 Protecting the Great Barrier Reef

12 Kayaking in Noosa

13 A Great Sandy Adventure – Fraser Island

16 Green Engage hotels

18 The feel good factor: conservation holidays

20 Woody the turtle

22 Exploring Ladakh with Garry Weare

24 The Desert Castles of Jordan

25 Ethical travel with Dragonfly Tours Cambodia

26 Live to travel, travel to give…

27 Ecotourism in India

31 Natural wonders of the Grand Pacific Drive

Our Planet Travel magazine is a free magazine published by Our Planet Travel (Meglara P/L trading as). Copyright © 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in part or in whole without prior written permission. While every effort is made to ensure all information in this magazine is accurate, no responsibility can be accepted by the Publisher for information supplied by organisations, businesses or individuals, including the copyright of supplied material, images, and typographical errors. Contact us: Our Planet Travel, PO Box 669, The Gap QLD 4061, Australia. Freecall: 1800 815 525 (within Australia). Email: [email protected] Web: www.ourplanettravel.com.au

Bruce ForemanTrained in Australia as an environmental scientist, Bruce was seduced by a chance to tour lead through China and Tibet. Thirteen years later he still lives in Asia, researching travel destinations, promoting environmental education, and writing for travel magazines. Bruce’s current favourite eco destination is the ‘Camino de Santiago’ trail in Spain. Bruce’s current favourite eco destination is the Fujian province of China.

Katie Bennett Katie Bennett is a highly regarded, professional, Brisbane-based photographer. This year she is travelling around Australia

with her family, on an eco-discovery adventure “life on the green road”, in partnership with Our Planet Travel. Katie delivers quality photography with a difference. Her unique skills are in producing emotionally connected imagery. Katie was a finalist in the 2013 National Photographic Portrait Prize.

Kim Wilkinson Kim holds a dual degree in Journalism and Arts. She’s currently completing a Masters in Modern Middle Eastern Studies at Oxford University. She has travelled to 24 countries (so far). Her favourite eco destination is Cuba – due to its untouched landscapes and seascapes.

Lina PreussLina has been writing about holiday experiences since their family camping trips around Australia in the early 90s. Lina has an International

Tourism Management and Journalism degree, and has worked for the United Nations World Tourism Organization in Madrid, Spain. Her favourite eco destination is Lake Bunyoni in Uganda.

Indigenous tourism

Community travel water project in Tanzania

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Travel Photography Competition - Send us your best travel shots and win!

Fujian Tulou – cycling in China

EDITION 2 APRIL 2014

CONTRIBUTORS


instagram.com/lifeonthegreenroad

Cover image location: Lamington National Park, near O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat. Image courtesy © Katie Bennett.

O U R P L A N E T T R A V E L . C O M . A U4

Contents


The next thing you notice is the wildlife; with bird calls, chirping and twittering surrounding you in

stereo-like sound as soon as you step out of your car at the top at O’Reilly’s, in Lamington National Park, South East Queensland.

The Segway Tour was without a doubt the highlight of my visit. The way it operates feels a bit strange at first, but after about 15 minutes I felt fine – until you have to get off again! Stopping and getting off a Segway, without embarrassing yourself, is the hardest part.

My memories of my previous visit to O’Reilly’s (many years ago) were a bit vague. As I drove up the canopied winding single-lane road through the dense rainforest, I realised I’d forgotten how beautiful the drive is. The feeling of solitude and peace, and being completely enveloped by nature hits you as you make the slow climb up the mountain – into ever cooler and fresher air as you go.

Carmen Ludcke, the Activities Administrator at O’Reilly’s, had the task of teaching me to ride the Segway. Carmen is one of those quietly talented and capable people who just love doing what they do. She has a Bachelor of Science in terrestrial and ecotourism, has worked at Australia Zoo for seven years, and has been at O’Reilly’s now for three years.

When I asked Carmen what she enjoys most about her job at O’Reilly’s she replied “I really love interacting with the guests and making them forget the drama of work and family”. And her best tip for Segway first-timers: “Relax!! The more you think about it the harder it is. We don’t think about walking - it just happens”.

Carmen’s knowledge of the local wildlife is very impressive, as she demonstrates on the Wildlife Encounters tour. She lists off the unique species to be seen around O’Reilly’s: “the Albert Lyrebird

– the phantom of the bird world as it’s very shy and rarely seen; the Lamington Spiny crayfish; the Eastern Quoll; and the spectacular Regent Bowerbird – O’Reilly’s is the only place where you can see the males up close”. The male Regent Bowerbirds with their incredible golden-yellow splashes of colour make a regular guest appearance at the guesthouse; and I was lucky enough to see a few during my 2-day stay.

It wasn’t till later though, after enjoying a walk along the meandering Tree Top Canopy Walk, a restful night with the soothing sound of dripping rain putting me to sleep, and a very informative early morning bird tour the next day, that I realised what had really made my visit to O’Reilly’s so enjoyable and definitely memorable - it was the staff.

Upon check-out I saw the sign at reception: “Welcome to O’Reilly’s… Where strangers are treated as friends, Friends as family, and Family as gold”.

The genuinely friendly staff really do treat you like a friend or family. It’s definitely the little things that make a great holiday – and turn it into an experience you don’t forget.

www.oreillys.com.au

FOR MORE

WORDS: MELANIE GREVIS-JAMES

Where strangers are treated CARMEN LUDCKE

O’REILLY’S SEGWAY TOUR

O’REILLY’S MOUNTAIN VILLA.

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“We read the October 2013 edition of your new magazine and enjoyed the articles, especially the story on Karijini National Park,

it brought back wonderful memories of our time spent enjoying the scenery and walking the gorges when we stayed there for a week a couple of years ago… we have done a lot of travelling around Australia in our caravan over the past five years, and can relate to some of the stories, as we’ve been there - done that!! We are totally self-sufficient, so are able to get to some of the nicest parts of the country without all the tourists. Our country is such an amazing, diverse, interesting & inspiring land and we have been privileged to be able to see as much of it as we have.. love it!!

Cheers, and we’re looking forward to reading the next edition.

FRED & SUE

National Tourism Awards 2013 winnersOur Planet Travel congratulates the following eco-certified and/or sustainable tourism operators for their recent awards. Well done to you all!

We welcome letters, feedback and stories from readers, email: [email protected]

Three weeks in a campervan in Tasmania gave us everything we wished for: the freedom of the open road, well signposted and easy to drive on, spectacular scenery and gorgeous weather.We walked in fabulous forests, on the ground and suspended 20m up in the canopy. We played hide-and-seek amongst the trees, collected sticks, marvelled at more shades of green than we knew existed, discovered waterfalls, watched an echidna burrow for food and a platypus swim in a stream. We saw plants and animals that don’t exist anywhere else on earth. We smelt the gum trees.

We played on beautiful beaches, built sandcastles, collected shells, explored rock pools, paddled in a crystal-clear sea and swam in a not-so-clear lake.

We wondered at the power of nature in the strength of waves in the Southern Ocean, we ogled at fabulous coastlines and started to share our love of geology with our children.

We learnt some history of the island: of explorers, of convicts, of settlers. We were humbled by their bravery, their ingenuity and their strength of character. We visited World Heritage Sites and picture-postcard viewpoints to experience first-hand the beauty of them.

We saw animals we had never seen before; Tasmanian Devils, wombats, pademelons, albatross, echidnas and platypuses, and learnt things about others we didn’t know (like that it is the male seahorse that gives birth to the babies, about 100 of them at once!)

We ate berries straight off the bush, fish and chips out of the paper by the

sea and the creamiest of ice creams. We tasted wine in the vineyard its grapes were grown in. We hand-fed kangaroos in a sanctuary and wallabies outside our campervan.

We bounced in a boat on the open sea, glided in a boat on a river, drove nearly 2000 km and walked our children’s legs down to their knees. We hopped, skipped, jumped and ran like overgrown children ourselves.

They were but moments on holiday. In our hearts they will remain forever.

Story and images submitted by reader, Louise Molyneux, from Malaysia.

Reader’s Contributions

•TARONGA ZOO Major Tourist Attractions

•TARONGA WESTERN PLAINS ZOO Tourist Attractions

•BRUNY ISLAND CRUISES Ecotourism

•JENOLAN CAVES Heritage and Cultural Tourism

•TRI STATE SAFARIS / MUTAWINTJI ECOTOURS Indigenous Tourism (see page 8 story)

•CAIRNS COCONUT HOLIDAY RESORT Tourist and Caravan Parks

•EMPORIUM HOTEL Luxury Accommodation

•WHITSUNDAY ESCAPE Unique Accommodation

•RODNEY FOX SHARK EXPEDITIONS New Tourism Development

•PENNICOTT WILDERNESS JOURNEYS Qantas Award for Excellence in Sustainable Tourism

“A Tasmanian Tale”

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Feedback

Top Tips to finding an Eco HotelThese activities will help you identify an eco hotel:1. Respects and showcases local cultures and traditions2. Offers educational activities and interpretative experiences3. Supports local communities and businesses4. Undertake waste management and efficient energy programs5. Encourages guests to consider the environment6. Supports wildlife, nature, and conservation


PRIZE: O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat are offering a great holiday escape prize! 2 nights’ accommodation, and a 90-minute Segway Safari for 2 adults. Total prize value $788.

TO ENTER: go to COMPETITIONS page on www.OurPlanetTravel.com.au Last date to enter is 31 August 2014. Thank you to O’Reilly’s for sponsoring a generous prize! See page 5 for O’Reilly’s story.

Our Planet Travel is passionate about a few things: travelling

(of course), protecting the environment, and photography. We want to share these passions with you.‘Life on the green road’ is a unique social media and online travelling story of a family sharing their experiences of travel products, people and places in Australia. Capturing the story of experiences and people that have the same passion for maintaining their ‘patch of green road’ – through visually stunning and environmentally-focused images.

Our Planet Travel’s aim is to inspire

sustainable and responsible travel and lifestyle choices, and to encourage everyone to think more about where our ‘holiday dollars’ go.

Professional photographer Katie Bennett is taking her family on a ‘lap of Australia’ to show her children how amazing our country is. She will share the photos of this life-learning experience with us; from her family’s personal perspective of our environment and the people they meet along the way.

Katie loves using imagery to create awareness about issues, or life in general, as a way to connect and share information. She has a real talent for creating amazing photographs with a unique and creative style – capturing the real ‘heart’ of the experience.

Life on the green road…

WIN A 2-NIGHT ESCAPE!Reader’s competition

join us for the ride!

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Join us to follow our adventure:www.OurPlanetTravel.com.au

facebook.com/OurPlanetTravelinstagram.com/lifeonthegreenroad

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Based in Broken Hill, in far west New

South Wales, Tri State Safaris run Mutawintji Eco Tours, which

specialises in Indigenous Tours. They take small group tours to Mutawintji National Park and to other areas that have Indigenous cultural significance. Their tours focus on Aboriginal culture, providing an introduction to ancient dreamtime stories, bush medicines and bush tucker. The tour to Mutawintji National Park features an interpretive walk to rock engravings and hand stencil sites.

Travelling to remote areas in the Outback can be difficult. Joining a guided tour is a great option, taking the stress out of driving yourself, and you get an insight into special places that only the locals know about.

Tri State guides are very experienced and are eager to share their knowledge with visitors. Most of their guides are Aboriginal, and are able to provide real insight into the significance of local cultural sites.

The company also operates tag-along tours. This gives visitors the option of driving their own 4WD vehicle, with the company of Tri State Safari experts. On tag-along tours Tri State Safaris look after all the organisation, purchase the necessary camping permits, carry the food and do the cooking.

The family-run business was

established in 1992 and is owned and operated by Michael and Joanne McCulkin. Michael emphasises the importance of their Eco Certification with Ecotourism Australia: “Our Eco Certification provides us with a benchmark to operate by. We are driven to provide our customers with a quality interpretive product, and to improve where we identify the need. We market our eco certification to attract customers who are motivated to actively contribute to the protection of the natural and cultural areas we visit”.

“Eco certification gives our staff pride in what they do and say”.

Tri State Safaris’ commitment to the environment has been recognised at both the New South Wales Tourism Awards, and the recent Australian Tourism Awards 2013, as winner of the Indigenous Tourism category.

The company abides by stringent minimal impact practices. They care for the natural environment, ensuring they carry out rubbish and respect Indigenous sites, and are committed to minimising their carbon footprint by reducing emissions and energy consumption.

Tri State Safaris employ Aboriginal guides to provide an authentic cultural experience, offering opportunities for people to visit sensitive and sacred sites.

In addition to these measures, Tri State Safaris donate a percentage of each customer’s fare to the Australian Wildlife Conservancy and Conservation Volunteers Australia.

www.tristate.com.au

FOR MORE

WORDS: KIM WILKINSON

Tri StateSafarisLOCATION: BROKEN HILL, NEW SOUTH WALES.

GUIDED TOUR WITH TRI STATE SAFARIS

MICK MCCULKIN

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Educating guests who visit the reef plays an important part in the protection process, and is an

integral part of the daily procedures of multi award-winning Cruise Whitsundays, located at Airlie Beach.

Eco-accredited Cruise Whitsundays offer a range of day cruises, including to Whitehaven Beach – rated as one of the top beaches of the world.

The full day Camira Sailing Adventure cruise allows guests to explore Whitehaven beach from the southern end of the beach where you can swim, sunbathe and wallow in the crystal clear waters. You can also explore spectacular Hill Inlet and its breathtaking lookout. How to look after and protect

Without a doubt, there’s no better way to see our environment up close than immersing yourself into the crystal clear turquoise waters of the Great Barrier Reef. And the reef environment needs our help to protect it.

this beautiful beach, and the reef, is included in information provided to all guests.

Cruise Whitsundays is a proud partner of Eco Barge Clean Seas, a local not-for-profit environmental organisation founded by Libby Edge and established in the Whitsundays region to protect the region’s precious marine life and aquatic environment. The Whitsunday Marine Debris Removal Program is an on-going program focused on removing harmful marine debris from the islands and coastline.

In addition, Eco Barge Clean Seas have just launched the Whitsunday Turtle Rescue Centre in conjunction with Fauna Rescue Whitsundays. The program cares for sick or injured marine turtles, and encourages local volunteers to assist with reporting all stranding events of turtles in the Whitsundays region. All Cruise Whitsundays staff and guests are

advised about the program and encouraged to assist with reporting stranded turtles.

The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park is a World Heritage listed area. Dedicated local operators and conservation groups play an important part in protecting and preserving the reef for future generations to enjoy. Our Planet Travel encourages all visitors to the reef to support eco-accredited or environmentally-friendly reef operators; if you’re not sure who they are, ask us.

www.cruisewhitsundays.comwww.ecobargecleanseas.org.au

FOR MORE

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Whitehaven Beach was named 5th in the top 25 Beaches of the World – as voted by Trip Advisor’s 2014 Travellers’ Choice Awards!

Great Barrier Reefmarine life...

CRUISE WHITSUNDAYS AND ECO BARGE CLEAN SEAS PARTNERSHIP

LIBBY WITH KAY THE TURTLE

WHITEHAVEN BEACH

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Whitsundays

How to spot a responsible travel company…Finding a ‘responsible’ travel company can be reasonably easy if you know what to look out for… but beware, there are a lot of companies just trying to make a good impression.

The Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC) refers to responsible travel as “travel that is sensitive to culture and to the environment”.

If you see the words ‘eco, sustainable, responsible, green, ecotourism etc’, check further to see if they really are.

Here is a list of key things to look for: they pay a fair working wage, employ local staff, are respectful of local cultures and traditions, avoid activities that harm the environment and local communities, remove all waste, support local businesses, educate guests and staff about the local environment and destination, practice minimal impact activities, recycle and use low-energy products, have or offer a carbon offset program, use environmentally-friendly products, and support/assist local charities and NFP groups.

World Expeditions have written a very detailed guide to assist people with understanding what responsible tourism is, and how you can be a responsible traveller. For a free copy of the ‘Responsible Travel Guide’, visit their website.

For more:www.worldexpeditions.com.au www.gstcouncil.org www.ourplanettravel.com.au/factsheets/ green_tourism_definitions

Since 2004 when the Kakoi community medical centre was first built by Tanzania National Parks the centre had not been connected to continuous flowing water. The woman and children from the village walked for hours to collect water from an unsafe source, risking animal attack en route.

Enter ... Osupuko Lodge, a nearby luxury lodge and a team of World Expeditions travellers on

a Community Project Travel trip. The lodge agreed to pump clean water to the village at no cost for 2 hours every day … that’s 20,000 litres a day. In November 2012 a group of 12 travellers met in Arusha to set off on a Tanzanian travel experience with 3 days of their 13-day itinerary spent in the village of Kakoi laying 6kms of water pipeline from the lodge to the medical centre.

The next project is connecting the Kakoi primary school to water in September 2014.

The community primary school has

Hallelujah...clean flowing waterWORDS: DONNA LAWRENCE

MASAI PEOPLE


Community Project


Learn more about our range of voluntourism holidays: Vietnam • Nepal • Tanzania • Peru • Australia >>> communityprojecttravel.com • 1300 720 000

A DIVISION OF WORLD EXPEDITIONS

join a small group • design a private family itinerary • travel with a friend or partner

Go beyond the tourist trails to discover the heart and soul of a country by lending your eff orts to a community project. Work alongside a local community to renovate a school, build a community garden or lay pipeline to carry clean water to a village. These 3-4 days of community project work are combined with an adventure travel itinerary to satisfy the explorer in you.

www.communityprojecttravel.com

FOR MORE

KakoiArusha

Serengeti NP

Ngorongoro Crater

Kenya

Tanzania

LOCATED NEAR THE TARANGIRE NATIONAL PARK, THE MASAI VILLAGE OF KAKOI IS HOME TO APPROXIMATELY 2500 PEOPLE SCATTERED ON SMALL PLOTS OF LAND.

“My sister Annabel and I were lucky enough to be in the small room with officials and local community members when the tap was turned on and out flowed clean water into Nurse Christina’s hands. Everyone was overjoyed and one lady kept kissing us and shaking our hands, it was so emotional that my sister and I became quite teary. Nurse Christina was ecstatic and could not stop smiling”

Lisa Tiernan | NSW | Kakoi Medical Centre Water Pipeline Project, 2012

this school from which the students and staff greatly benefit. This water project will be another step towards our commitment to improve the education environment for the students of Kakoi.

Before the project work participants will enjoy a wilderness experience on safari in the Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater, with the opportunity to spot some of Africa’s unique wildlife. The Kakoi School Water Pipeline Project tour departs Arusha on 16 September 2014.

rainwater tanks, which are dry as a result of the continuing drought. There is a serious shortage of clean water. This project will lay 3kms of water pipeline from the Kakoi medical centre to the school bringing clean water to a communal tap located at the school.

The World Expeditions Foundation and other generous donors have already facilitated building renovations at

NEW CLEAN WATER SOURCE FOR KAKOI

KAKOI SCHOOL CHILDREN

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Kayak Noosa, which offers guided paddling tours for all ages (including children) and

fitness levels, as well as performance ski paddling, kayak instruction and kayak hire in Noosa, on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, is dedicated to being an innovative, dynamic and environmentally sustainable business. Last year, the company attained Advanced Ecotourism Accreditation Level IV – the highest level of environmental accreditation in Australia.

As Cath says, a focus on sustainability in all aspects of business operations is vital to achieving Kayak Noosa’s vision: “We want to do all that we can to protect and conserve the environment so that our kids will be able to enjoy

Rod and Cath Withyman love sea kayaking, and their desire to share this passion with others, and show that an outdoor recreation provider can operate sustainably, has been the driving force behind their award-winning commercial kayak business, Kayak Noosa.

and appreciate the same wonders of nature that we have.”

Kayak Noosa has won numerous awards, including the 2011 Living Smart Enviro Business Award for the Sunshine Coast’s most environmental business and the Sustainable Tourism Award in the 2010 Sunshine Coast Environment Awards. The company is involved with a number of international and local conservation projects, including the Sea Shepherd Society and National Clean Up Australia Day. Education of guides and visitors, recycling, composting, using local and organic foods, improving energy efficiency in the office and sourcing locally and/or ethically produced gear and equipment are all aspects

of Kayak Noosa’s constant effort to improve its business practices and integrate sustainability principles into its operations.

Cath says that sharing these principles with guests is an important part of Kayak Noosa’s operations: “Our vision is to inspire and deliver environmental kayaking experiences to enhance quality of life. […] We love to share our passion, knowledge and enthusiasm for the marine environment, through interpretation and teachable moments as they unfold in a casual and laid back manner.”

Kayak Noosa’s guided kayak sailing adventures provide clients with the experience of both river and ocean paddling and kayak sailing in the amazingly beautiful Noosa region. The tours range from a relaxing two-hour Sunset Session through to the Dolphin Adventure where guests can experience kayak surfing, snorkel the pristine waters off Noosa National Park and encounter the friendly local bottlenose dolphin pod. Get out for some family fun on your next holiday to Noosa.

www.kayaknoosa.com

FOR MORE

WORDS: LINA PREUSS IMAGES: KAYAK NOOSA

Sharing your passion…

SUNSET KAYAK.

KAYAK NOOSA

DOLPHIN ADVENTURE

DOLPHIN ADVENTURE KAYAK NOOSA


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F raser Island is an ecological masterpiece of giant sand dunes, rainforests, freshwater streams

and lakes and an exceptional range of unique flora and fauna.

To explore the island you can hire a four-wheel drive from Hervey Bay

or Kingfisher Bay Resort (on Fraser Island’s western side) and take to the sand tracks on your own voyage of discovery.

For those who want to sit back and have it all done for them, eco-accredited Fraser Explorer Tours has an excellent

range of daily eco-accredited four-wheel-drive tours to choose from including day tours from Hervey Bay or Rainbow Beach and a superb two-day adventure staying on Fraser Island’s eastern side.

But you don’t need to have wheels to enjoy this island paradise. Kingfisher Bay Resort is also eco-accredited; an ideal starting point to immerse yourself in this World Heritage wilderness and offers Ranger-guided eco walks and talks, fishing from the jetty and a great beach to sun yourself.

A Great Sandy Adventure,

Who would’ve guessed that a short 50-minute ferry ride from a tiny beachside suburb in Hervey Bay could transport you into an official stress-free eco holiday zone, complete with sweeping golden beaches, aquatic adventures, and unspoiled wilderness.

The popular Day Away package gives you the chance to immerse yourself in pristine wilderness without a 4WD.

You’ll enjoy lunch and morning or afternoon tea as well as a guided walk, canoe paddle and fishing clinic.

$65* per Adult $35* per Child $165* per Family

Enjoy a Day Away

1800 FRASER (1800 372 737)*Conditions apply. Subject to availability. Family rate is for 2 adults and 2 children.

Make the most of those balmy subtropical nights with a Dinner Cruise to beautiful Fraser Island dining at our Sand Bar bistro or Seabelle Restaurant – it’s one of those must-do experiences and includes return ferry transfers from River Heads.

from $49* per Adult $20* per Child

Dinner Cruise Join us for a one or two day adventure to discover Fraser’s fabulous attractions and pristine sites like Lake McKenzie.

Tours depart Hervey Bay and Rainbow Beach daily and are all inclusive. Overnight tours include all meals and stay at Eurong Beach Resort.

from $160* per Adult from $105* per Child $495* per Family

Fraser Explorer Tours

Kingfisher Bay Resort Group

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EXPLORE FRASER ISLAND YOUR WAY!

www.1800fraser.com

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Fraser IslandKINGFISHER BAY RESORT

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If you were told you could be served fresh local produce for three meals a day, be accommodated in your very

own hideaway cabin and not have to worry about anything except for when to reapply sunscreen, you would have no choice but to visit Banubanu Wilderness Retreat; an exclusive, simple yet luxurious hideaway on Bremer Island, off the Gove Peninsula in the Northern Territory.

The retreat, run by environmentalists Helen Martin and Trevor Hosie, is a wonderful example of sustainable accommodation, and a reflection of the couple’s passion for responsible tourism, their respect for the sacredness of the land and their

To escape the pressures and busyness of modern life, sometimes all you need is distance. When that distance leads you to long, sandy, untouched beaches, sunrise and sunset over the ocean and complete tranquillity, you might never want to leave...

commitment to finding a balance between sharing and preserving this beautiful part of the world.

“We have a strong focus on looking after the land,” explains Trevor. “We are in a remote location so we have to adapt – we have to preserve the limited supplies [water, etc.] we have”.

Indeed, every effort has been made to ensure Banubanu’s sustainability: the retreat runs on solar and wind power, and rainwater is used all year round. Littering, illegal fishing and interference with nesting wildlife is prohibited, and guests have the opportunity to participate in guided nature activities and cultural learning activities.

Banubanu is advanced ecotourism-accredited with Ecotourism Australia, and a member of Tourism Australia’s Indigenous Tourism Champion Program.

The retreat has won numerous esteemed awards, including the East Arnhem Chamber of Commerce 2013 Business of the Year Award for

WORDS: LINA PREUSS

a retreat with

VIEW OF WESTERN BAY

SUNSET DRINKS

LUNCH ON THE DECK


Banubanu


www.banubanu.com

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The vision for a major Indigenous tourism experience in North Queensland began over 20 years ago when Roy was employed by Mr Barry Murday working in the local cane fields near Cairns. After many a yarn, while sitting under the Milky Pine tree, between Roy and the local Buma Rangers they looked at ways to create jobs and education for their people. The Murday family agreed to sell the current parcel of land where the Mossman Gorge Centre is now if Roy could work with his guys (the Indigenous Land Council) to raise the money. This finally happened.

Roy then had another Dream which saw rocks falling from the hillside and blocking access into the Mossman Gorge. In this dream Roy spoke with many people wanting to go in and see the gorge. Roy advised them “I will guide you in and show you our wonderful playground.”

From this dream became the idea of the Shuttle buses which would operate from the Centre into the gorge to allow everyone to be able to enjoy this playground and also control the traffic flow past the community.

Today the Mossman Gorge Centre creates local jobs and educates visitors. The Shuttle buses provide access into the Gorge, and the Ngadiku Dreamtime Walks with local guides share their knowledge of how the Kuku Yalanji people used to work and enjoy this beautiful land.

Roy and his team of experienced guides share their dreamtime legends, explain the tales and history of cave paintings and provide an enchanting narrative of the rainforest and their special relationship with this unique tropical environment.

You will find the Mossman Gorge Centre 77km north of Cairns, in North Queensland. The world-class ecotourism and Indigenous tourism visitor centre provides a café, Indigenous art gallery, and information point for the Gorge’s Dreamtime Walks – leading you into the heart of the Gorge where a journey of discovery through this unique wilderness awaits you.

FOR MORE: www.mossmangorge.com.au

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Environmental Sustainability, a Brolga Award NT for Business Growth in 2012 and Best Business in Arnhem Land in 2011.

Bremer Island itself is a registered sacred site to the local indigenous people, some of whom are employed at Banubanu. It is Helen and Trevor’s hope that their involvement in the retreat’s operations will help to encourage locals to become cultural ambassadors, generate income, experience cultural exchanges and move toward a more sustainable form of living.

So what can visitors expect from the Banubanu Wilderness Retreat?

“People enjoy the tranquillity here,” notes Trevor. “I always say it’s a leveller – no matter who you are at home, everyone is equal here. There is no wifi, no phone. People can be free to just enjoy the beauty of nature and the peacefulness of the place.”

“We have a strong focus on looking after the land,”

TREVOR & HELEN AT CHAMBER OF COMMERCE EVENT

ROY GUIDING A DREAMTIME WALK

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MOSSMAN GORGE

The program, which helps hotels manage their waste, water and energy consumption in

practical, measurable ways, can have a significant impact; not only on the environment but also on the community in which the hotel is located. This is because the program covers every aspect of a hotel’s life cycle – from picking a suitable site, to selecting the correct lighting; to choosing responsible cleaning materials and taking into account the local climatic conditions.

Participating hotels measure their energy, water and waste consumption, and input this data into an online

sustainability software program, engineered by Green Globe, a world-wide environmental certification organisation. This software generates automatic reports and benchmarks so that hotels can track their progress, compare their performance with that of other hotels, and create action plans.

Crowne Plaza MelbourneIHG’s Crowne Plaza Melbourne, one of the city’s largest inner city hotels, is certified as a Level 2 “Achiever” in the Green Engage Program. This is the second tier in the program’s four-level certification scheme.

To achieve this level of certification, the Crowne Plaza has implemented a number of environmental best practice policies such as a commitment to sustainable purchasing and solid waste management. The hotel recycles 87% of its paper and cardboard, produces only 4.7 litres of landfill waste per

When the InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG) started its Green Engage program, it made a commitment to care for the environment – and to join the ever increasing number of hotel chains offering its guests a more environmentally-conscious accommodation option.

WORDS: LINA PREUSS

Green Engage Hotels

CROWNE PLAZA MELBOURNE

CROWNE PLAZA MELBOURNE

CROWNE PLAZA MELBOURNE STANDARD KING ROOM


Hotels


www.ihgplc.com www.greenglobe.com

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guest (52.1% above the best practice level) and donates remaining guest amenities to homeless shelters.

It has also installed energy saving devices in all guest rooms, replacing traditional thermostats with intelligent heating, cooling and lighting controllers. The controllers do not only come with an additional ECO setting; they also automatically shut off lighting and heating when the room is unoccupied in order to save power.

The replacement of halogen light bulbs with LED lights, new boiler systems, a building energy management program and variable speed drives for air handling units have also all been part of the Crowne Plaza’s energy consumption reduction efforts.

InterContinental SydneyAnother of IHG’s hotels that is taking a leading role in implementing more sustainable business practices is the InterContinental Sydney Hotel. This hotel has undertaken some major upgrades on the energy front since it became involved with the Green Engage program, and is currently striving for Level 3 certification.

The InterContinental Sydney was the first hospitality establishment to apply to the government to receive carbon credits, and was granted approximately $60,000 in 2013 for its energy saving concepts.

The hotel’s innovative ideas – including its organic rooftop herb garden (for use by hotel chefs) and its practical assistance to Sydney soup kitchen St. Canice - are what set this hotel apart from its competitors.

If these actions are not enough, the InterContinental Sydney has also taken on board the world-renowned, WWF-founded Earth Hour idea, which the

hotel now runs as a monthly event to remind all staff and guests that small, collective actions can make a real and lasting difference.

Selecting one of IHG’s Green Engage hotels on your next trip means that your accommodation choice directly benefits the environment, an option we’d love to see more hotel groups offer in the future.

HARBOUR BRIDGE VIEW FROM INTERCONTINENTAL SYDNEY

INTERCONTINENTAL SYDNEY HOTEL

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Victoria ‘the place to be’ for conservation holiday seekers

Victoria is endowed with natural assets, offering an exciting diversity of landscapes –

from beautiful coastal scenery and mesmerizing deserts, to undulating green hills and the alluring charm of the high country. It is no surprise that the state is quickly becoming a hub for nature-based and eco travel in Australia.

There is no limit to what’s on offer in Victoria when it comes to nature and ecotourism experiences – from marine cruises and day tours, to eco lodges and retreats, and spectacular National Parks – there is something for everyone.

However, one tour operator has taken nature-based experiences a step further, offering visitors the unique opportunity to experience some of Victoria’s special

places, while making a personal contribution to the conservation of the local natural assets.

Naturewise Eco Escapes provide meaningful, small group holidays offering a special way for participants to connect with nature. Developed in partnership between Conservation Volunteers Australia and Parks Victoria, they showcase the beauty of the state’s natural areas whilst also contributing to its conservation outcomes and regional tourism growth.

As Rod Hillman, CEO of Ecotourism Australia notes, “Naturewise Eco Escapes provide an exceptional way for travellers to experience a destination – by getting directly involved in the conservation of its wildlife, plants and landscapes, having exclusive access to some amazing natural areas, and working closely with environmental experts on key projects”. It’s a win-win for everyone concerned – including the environment

Conservation holidaysthe feel good factor...

most importantly.

The all-inclusive packages range from day trips to four-day adventures, with various levels of conservation activity, catering to different types of travellers. Participants will work alongside Parks Victoria Rangers and specialist

KINGLAKE NATIONAL PARK

POINT NEPEAN VOLUNTEERS


Volunteering


www.naturewise.com.au

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New Ningaloo Reef research expeditionNaturewise Eco Escapes and Oceanwise Expeditions have joined forces to offer an exciting new research expedition where, with their guests’ help they can piece together vital information needed to ensure its protection and the ongoing conservation of the Ningaloo Coast World Heritage Area in Western Australia.

The Ningaloo Reef is one of the world’s largest fringing reefs, and along with the spectacular Cape Range forms part of the Ningaloo Coast World Heritage Area. It is also one of the few places in the world where you can swim with the magnificent whale shark and experience a myriad of other marine life including manta rays, turtles, dolphins, whales, dugongs and coral reef fish!

Working alongside marine scientists, “voluntourists” will have the opportunity to learn about this magnificent coastal area and collect scientific data that contributes towards ongoing land and ocean based research programs, including whale shark biology and ecology.

“Oceanwise studies human impacts on coral reefs and pelagic marine ecosystems. We have a team of postgraduate research scientists studying whale shark biology and ecology, coral reef biology and ecology and marine biodiversity. Support from ecotourism enables Oceanwise to implement long-term research projects that simply are not possible without this kind of support” - Ben Fitzpatrick, Director Oceanwise.

Ningaloo Reef Research Expeditions operate from April to August. Participation in this new program supports ongoing research that increases the understanding of whale sharks and the Ningaloo Reef region.

researchers to support cutting edge research activities including remote camera monitoring work, bird research, wildlife trapping and spotlight surveys.

The new Naturewise Eco Escapes include a one-day trip to Woodlands, where participants can help save the Eastern Barred Bandicoot from extinction, or a two-day ‘Kinglake Conservation’ trip which provides a great opportunity for participants to work on fauna recovery efforts in Kinglake National Park following the devastating bushfires in 2009.

There are also exciting four-day experiences in the Grampians, the Glenelg region, and Little Desert National

Park, offering amazing walks amongst spectacular scenery, rich cultural assets, and hands-on conservation work. No experience is necessary - just an interest in nature and a willingness to get involved.

“Our tours provide the opportunity for travellers to personally experience and contribute to the protection of our beautiful wildlife and natural areas”, says Jo Issaverdis, National Manager – Ecotourism Division at Conservation Volunteers.

The tours are a definite “feel good” experience – and you get to see some of Australia’s most stunning scenery in the process – what more could you want?

OCEANWISE EXPEDITIONS

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For each stay in an Eco Cabin, the park makes a monthly donation to the Cairns Turtle Rehabilitation

Centre to support Woody, a juvenile Hawksbill turtle.

Woody, who was found floating between Cairns and Green Island by a member of the public, was rescued by Queensland Park Rangers and initially taken to Marlin Coast Veterinary Hospital. Here, he had to be force fed for six weeks before he regained interest in eating.

Today, thanks to the sponsorship of the BIG4 Atherton Woodlands Tourist Park and the participation of visitors choosing to stay in the park’s Eco Cabins, Woody is now living at the Turtle Rehabilitation Centre on Fitzroy Island, being cared for by a group of dedicated staff and volunteers, and is regaining his strength.

“Dr Jennifer Gilbert and the team of volunteers at the Turtle Rehabilitation Centre […] do the most incredible job. They have some very sick turtles to look after and it [is] humbling to see the work and care they receive,” says Patrice Fletcher, manager of the tourist park.

Indeed, Woody is on the path to recovery: from being severely underweight when he was found, he has

since regained his appetite and is now happily eating between 24 and 28 squid a day.

“Woody is slowly putting on weight,

but he still has a long way to go,” says Patrice. The continued support of visitors to our tourist park is essential.

The tourist park has a range of Eco Cabins to choose from, all of them eco-certified by Ecotourism Australia and built to be environmentally friendly by incorporating solar power and other unique features such as recycled plastic bottle balconies.

It’s not every day you get the opportunity to help save a turtle’s life, but that is exactly what you do when you stay in an Eco Cabin at the BIG4 Atherton Woodlands Tourist Park in north Queensland.

www.woodlandscp.com.au www.cairnsturtlerehab.org

FOR MORE

Woody the turtle

ATHERTON WOODLANDS ECO CABIN ACCOMMODATION

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Thanks to our sponsors Britz Campervans and Conservation Volunteers for the great prizes!

Congratulations to our edition 1 winners: Shirley J and Ben C

1ST PRIZE: PEMBERTON, WA - BY SHIRLEY J, WA

2ND PRIZE: LAKE WAKITIPU, NZ - BY BEN C, WA

RUNNER UP: MILFORD SOUND, NZ

– BY CHERRY J, QLD

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Photo Competition


Our Planet Travel photo competition prizes include:1st Prize: 7-day rental vehicle from Britz Campervans

2nd Prize: $500 travel voucher for a Naturewise holiday

So, you think you can take a great travel shot? See below for further details on how to enter.

A ‘GREEN’ HOLIDAY!

Win!

Send images to: [email protected] Competition closes on 31 August 2014. Please remember to include all your contact details and where the photos were taken.

Readers’ competition details:• Send us a copy (by email) of your best travel photos from your

holiday, and you could win 7 days FREE rental vehicle from Britz Campervans; or a $500 voucher from Conservation Volunteers for a Naturewise holiday of your choice.

• Photos must be of scenery, nature or animals; or a ‘green’ travel destination or product.

• By entering the competition, you also receive the opportunity to have your photo included in the next edition of Our Planet Travel magazine – and the winning photo could even be on the next cover!

• Images must be sent via email and format must be: high resolution, print quality jpg; minimum 300dpi; maximum file size 8mb.

• Please include your full name (first name and surname); email address, postal address, and a contact telephone number; and

details about the photo and where the photo was taken (must be a destination in Australia or New Zealand).

• Please caption all photos sent. • The maximum number of images to send is five (5) per person. • Date for entries closes on 31 August 2014. Winners will be notified

by email after 31 August 2014.• By entering the competition you are agreeing that Our Planet Travel

magazine can reproduce your image/s on our website, or in the magazine, and for public relations activities without incurring any copyright infringements. All images entering the competition must be your own photo. All photos published will be credited to the photographer.

‘Julay, Julay’ is the hello, goodbye and ‘have a nice day’ greeting heard throughout Ladakh – an isolated region high in the Indian Himalaya located on the borderlands of Tibet. The region is often described as ‘Little Tibet’ on account of its rich cultural history. Here, the turn of the Buddhist prayer wheel is still in harmony with this harsh and rugged land.

To reach Ladakh you can either take the one-hour flight from Delhi – India’s capital –or undertake an

overland journey that will take you a minimum of four days, following roads that traverse the backbone of the west Himalayan ranges.

On arrival in Leh – Ladakh’s tiny capital – you will almost certainly be out of breath. At 3500 metres (10,950 ft) the air is thin. Acclimatisation is imperative so take it easy and enjoy a somewhat sedate visit to the outlying forts and ancient monasteries that characterise the upper Indus Valley.

For the first time visitor few would argue that the nine-day Beyond Markha Valley trek is a classic. The trek heads due south out of Leh providing an opportunity to cross high passes – indeed Ladakh means the land of high passes – before visiting villages locked in the depths of the Trans Himalaya Range not yet connected by road.

On the initial stages of the trek the

stark mountainscape is tempered by the secluded gorges where bubbling streams support an oasis of green. Willows and sage bush provide the only cover for the chukar partridge scrambling up an otherwise barren hillside. The well-defined trail gradually winds higher, stretching your lung capacity to its limit as you reach the crest of the Ganda La (4820 metres) (15,000 feet).

Colourful prayer flags flutter on the

WORDS & IMAGES: GARRY WEARE

pass, each imprinted with the ‘Wind Horse’ that bestows favours from the Gods to ensure your safe journey. From the pass fold upon fold of the barren Zanskar Range merge south to the unbroken chain of snow-capped peaks that constitute the Great Himalaya Range. From your vantage point you can almost pick out the tiny settlements nestle deep in the gorges and set amid fields of ripening barley.

Markha Valley’

LadakhTrekking ‘Beyond the

INDUS RIVER MARKHA INDIAN HIMALAYA

TREKKING IN LADAKH INDIA HIMALAYA


Ladakh, India


www.worldexpeditions.com www.australianhimalayanfoundation.org.au

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It takes a further week to complete the trek. From the Ganda La the trail winds down steeply to the Markha Valley. Tiny monasteries provide a constant reminder of the deep-seated Buddhist heritage. Small children – Ragamuffin Inc – barefooted, runny-nosed and dressed in hand-me-downs seem intent on exploring the hidden depths of your rucksack. An elderly man who could be anyone’s grandfather rests on a sun-baked boulder alongside the trail, twirling his prayer wheel and quietly chanting his prayers.

Although the Markha Valley is isolated,

Well before you reach a village the familiar cries of ‘Julay, Julay’ leave little doubt that you are in for an extraordinary time.

Garry’s responsible trekking tips: a few perspectives while trekking in Ladakh include: • Wash well away from water

sources • Always ensure that garbage is

properly disposed of• Set an example and if necessary

take the time to clear dirty campsites

• Do not clear saplings or cut trenches in campsites

• Ensure that toilet trenches are properly maintained

• Be mindful and dress appropriately when entering a home or monasteries

• Whenever possible engage local crew and horsemen

• Do not give hand outs to the village children

• Do not hand out medications to local people

• Do not pick wildflowers or gather medicinal plants

• Ensure you are self-sufficient on the trek - do not buy supplies of rice and grain from villages

• Above respect the local cultural traditions

change is imminent. Plans are underway to eventually build a road up the valley. Indeed, as elsewhere in Ladakh the government authorities are intent on linking every village by road in the next generation. And, herein lies the real dilemma for while trekkers undoubtedly want to visit remote villages; remote villagers want access to roads. It remains to be seen whether trekker’s itineraries in the not too distant future are confined to the boundaries of National Parks.

On the final stages of the trek you cross the Zalung La at 5150 metres the

highest point of the trek. Beyond lies the vast region of Rupshu where nomads graze their huge herds of yaks amid an awesome backdrop of snow-capped peaks. A fitting finale before we drive back to Leh and the Indus Valley.

Garry is an expert Himalaya trekking guide with World Expeditions, the Deputy Chairman and Program Manager of the Australian Himalayan Foundation, and has written several books about the Himalayas, including ‘A Long walk in the Himalaya’.

FORT AT MARKHAL

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For most people a visit to Jordan involves an obligatory visit to Petra and Wadi Rum. However Jordan

has many other cultural and ecological tourist sites if you travel a little off the tourist trail. A day spent exploring Jordan’s desert castles is an opportunity to experience a different part of Jordan’s fascinating history.

Castle KharanaCastle Kharana was our first stop. There it stood in the desert, a dramatic and imposing two-story structure. We

The unrelenting desert sun beat down on the sand, and in front of us stood Castle Kharana, what appeared to be an impenetrable desert fortress. This was just the start to an incredible desert castle day tour in Jordan.

arrived around 10am, and had the castle all to ourselves. We took our time exploring, walking through the central courtyard, then climbing up to the second floor, putting ourselves in the shoes of those who had visited in the past. Historians debate the purpose of the castle and this fuelled speculation amongst our group. What were the windows for – shaped like arrow slits? Was the castle a caravanserai for passing travellers?

Castle AmraCastle Amra was the ‘showstopper’ of our desert castle tour. In Arabic it’s called ‘Qusayr Amra.’ Qusayr is the diminutive for Qasr, or castle, so it translates as ‘little castle.’ The only remaining part of what was once a larger complex is the bathhouse. The site is World Heritage Listed – and it’s not hard to see why. For those with a passion for art history this

is an absolute must-see. The site is not very well documented in art history literature, but the frescoes are spectacular, they are intact, delicate, and unusual. For instance there are stunning, detailed frescoes of animals, including a charming bear playing guitar.

The staff were very friendly and walked us through the complex, pointing out beautiful mosaics on the floor, and explaining the process of preserving the frescoes.

Castle AzraqAs the sun neared its zenith we made it to Castle Azraq, which was the site I was personally most excited about visiting. For anyone who has read Seven Pillars of Wisdom by T.E. Lawrence, ‘Lawrence of Arabia’, Castle Azraq will have special significance; it is where Lawrence and his men were based during winter in 1917-1918 in the Arab Revolt. The remains of the grey stone fort are reasonably expansive, and you can explore it at your leisure.

A trip to the desert castles will ignite the imagination, and it won’t break the budget either. Costs are just AUD$12 each for a private maxi-taxi (price depends on numbers). Site entry (bought at the castles) is just over AUD$1 per castle.

Kim Wilkinson is a Modern Middle Eastern Studies masters student at Oxford University in England, an avid traveller, and undertakes regular volunteer projects around the world.

www.visitjordan.com

FOR MORE

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WORDS & IMAGES: KIM WILKINSON

In Lawrence’s Footsteps: the desert castles ofjordan

FRESCOES CASTLE AMRACASTLE KHARANA

CASTLE AMRA


Jordan


Based in Phnom Penh, the team at Dragonfly Tours Cambodia is passionate about creating

in-depth, ethical travel experiences with the close involvement from local partners on every trip. The boutique Cambodian-Australian travel company also partners with and raises funds for local charitable organisations.

A tour was recently organised for an

enthusiastic and adventurous group of fundraisers from northern NSW called Aussies for Orphans who wanted to create a very special experience featuring tuk tuks (a popular form of local transport featuring a 125cc motorbike).

After months of planning in Cambodia and fundraising in Australia, the group arrived in December 2013 for the inaugural Tuk Tuk Rally. The 12-day itinerary took them through Phnom Penh, Battambang and finally to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. The group were also able to visit and present in person the funds they raised for two Cambodian NGOs: Yodifee and New Hope. One of the many highlights included the guests enjoying a very special Christmas Day with students at Yodifee, celebrating with practical presents, food, music, dance performances and lots of laughter. Participant Bronwyn Meddows enthused, “I can honestly say that this would rate as probably the best holiday I have been on. It was interesting, fun, enlightening and inspiring.”

Yodifee assists young Cambodians

www.dragonflytourscambodia.comwww.yodifee.org

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with physical disabilities by providing education or skills training so they can be financially independent. Director, Nimul Ouch, sent two Yodifee graduates and now university students on the trip for their personal and professional development. Thy Thona and Theng Sithourn were able to experience tourism under the guidance of Dragonfly’s co-director, Vuthy Sorn. Thona, aged 22, said, “It was a very new experience for me. It was my first time to travel to Battambang and Siem Reap. We had a chance to interact with foreigners and it was really good for us.”

Dragonfly and Yodifee are teaming up again for 15-day fundraising tours in December 2014 and March 2015.

Trying to find an ethical tour company is often hard enough, but trying to find one in a foreign country is even harder. If you’re travelling to Cambodia, we’ve done the hard work for you…

Imagescourtesy©DragonflyToursandYodifee

WINNER! DAVID W, Melbourne, AustraliaDavid was the lucky winner of the Dragonfly Tours holiday competition in the last edition.

Thank you again to Dragonfly Tours Cambodia for sponsoring such a wonderful prize!

Ethical travel made easyYODIFEE STUDENTS

YODIFEE GRADUATES THY AND THENG WITH PAM

LADIES IN TUK TUK IN SIEM REAP PROVINCE

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Cambodia

Supporting local charities and communities in the countries they visit is a core business focus.

Icon Adventures’ company slogan reads: “Live to travel, travel to give” - summing up exactly what they do on a daily basis.

On their Kokoda treks in Papua New Guinea, Chris and Laura work closely with the Kokoda Track Authority, and support the Kokoda Track Foundation and local track communities. The most recent activities have included assisting with the building of the new Efogi 2 School; and the ‘Brighten a Smile’ campaign – a campaign providing dental health for the local school children. The last group of Icon Adventures trekkers donated a box of

toothpaste to support this campaign.

Chris explains, “We recognise that we have an opportunity to make a positive economic impact on the communities we visit. We must also ensure that we do not have a negative social effect”. This includes always choosing locally-owned operators and suppliers that employ locals and offer reasonable working conditions and fair payment to staff.

Going on an Icon adventure means you will have a wonderfully inspiring journey, will help contribute to local communities in very meaningful ways, and get to meet the locals along the way.

You don’t need to spend much time in the company of Chris and Laura Ramsey to realise that they are incredibly giving people. A trek with their company Icon Adventures is more than just an adventure holiday in a stunning location, it is an eye-opening experience that shows you how much one small company can achieve on their own.

www.iconadventures.com.au

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travel to give. . .Live to travel, KOKODA-TRACK CHILDREN

CHRIS WITH LOCAL VILLAGE CHILDREN


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The uniqueness of this experiment was that the very same people who had earlier made a living by

illegal means inside the forest were now its protectors. As forest guides and naturalists accompanying tourists on walking trails into the Periyar National Park, the local youth had now found a source of making a legitimate livelihood. While on the trail inside the forest, which these youth knew like the back of their hands, they served as forest guards keeping an eye on illegal activities. In the process, the forest department was successful in making these ‘converted’ ecotourism guides, the stake-holders in the conservation of Periyar National Park.

Though the term ecotourism is not totally new to India, the true spirit of the word has widely been misrepresented. Most of the times, organizations and operators have simply marketed their wildlife, adventure or cultural packages

I was on my way to study the famous Periyar Tiger Trails, a unique community-oriented and forest-centred ecotourism project. To explore one of Kerala’s best, and probably India’s finest, National Parks.

as ‘ecotourism products’. Periyar Tiger Trails has shown that ecotourism has a much more important goal, one which takes care not to disturb the integrity of the natural ecosystem and the ethnic culture, while creating economic opportunities that make conservation and protection advantageous to the local people.

I then drove into the Spice Village resort on the outskirts of the forest. When I entered my room I was surprised to find the TV missing. Soon I realised that the air-conditioning too was missing, and

www.cghearth.com/spice-village www.periyartigertrail.in www.pugmarks123.com

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so was the customary fridge. Here I was staring at wooden beds, terracotta flooring and a very basic setting. But then, there was something very different about this room. It dawned upon me that the simplicity of the room gave it a very warm feeling.

I went on exploring this resort; the thatched roofs, simple furniture, very traditional Kerala décor, simple waste management scheme and the lush green surroundings. Complimenting this impressive setting were the smiling faces of the staff dressed in their traditional white attire - all of whom who were from the neighbouring villages. Each smile on those faces was worth a million dollars... it was truly welcoming. The more I explored the resort and spoke to the personnel, the more I understood another concept of ecotourism practiced here. In their own words: “We have only continued an ancient wisdom, a way of living that sustained itself from nature, yet respected it and left it uncorrupted”.

And the best part is, this wisdom has created a tremendously successful business model. Environmental fads, like waste management, power saving, water recycling and conservation also make better economic sense. Ecotourism is here to stay!

Editor’s note: Anirudh Chaoji manages Pugmarks Eco Tours and Nature Trails Resorts, an ecotourism operator in India. He is heavily involved in ecology restoration and environment education. This story is his personal experience. The full and inspirational story can be read on Our Planet Travel’s website: www.ourplanettravel.com.au/Stories/Ecotourism_in_India

WORDS & IMAGES: ANIRUDH CHAOJI

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Ecotourism in Leading by example:

IndiaECOTOURISM TURNS LOCAL YOUTH INTO GOOD NATURALISTS

NON-ECOTOURISM CREATES MOUNDS OF GARBAGE

TEAM OF LOCAL YOUTH CONDUCTING ECOTOURISM ADVENTURE

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India

The challenge of the hills and the search for hidden valleys reflects the Hakka’s immigrants’ own

escape to the hills from crowds warring over power and resources in 12th century Central China.

Fengshui – the philosophy of harmony between the built and natural environment also feels more resonant on a bike. The rise and fall of the country tunes you to the geomantic principles on which the Hakka laid out their homes - the famous Fujian tulou.

Gigantic rammed-earth clan-fortresses,

Cycling the Hakka homelands of Yongding and Nanjing in Southern Fujian makes you feel at one with the Hakka people’s own journey to the remote forested mountains of South East China eight centuries ago.

aligned to the mountains for defense and the rivers for wealth, the tulou have grown grander over the centuries to house up to 800 people from a single lineage.

46 square and round Fujian tulou are now ascribed world heritage status for their unique communal and defensive architecture, as well as their fengshui relationship to the land. But it is the humble tulou, accessed down tiny cycle-ways off the UNESCO route that offer the warmest greeting to visitors, the sweetest tea, and a less commercial

Southern Fujian, ChinaCycling into the past. . .


Southern China

WORDS & IMAGES: BRUCE FOREMAN

MR SU BY THE DRAGON MOUTH FENGSHUI GATE OF YANXINAG LOU TULOU Im

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FARMERS PATHS THROUGH THE FIELDS

glimpse into this fast changing culture.

A cycle for all seasonsLime is the colour of Fujian on a summer time cycle. Rainfall, warm and plentiful, fills the rice paddies, and a loop down the verdant Nanxi Valley brings you to what the tourism spin doctors are beginning to call the Great wall of Tulou.

Flat land is rare in this part of the world, and the rice paddies in the narrow river valley give way to tobacco and pomelos on the hills, bamboo and then forest as you reach greater heights. Climbing the hills, you look over your shoulder to a valley crowded with tulou. The distinctive yellow mud bricks capped with charcoal coloured tiles, are arrayed in clusters of squares and circles along this fengshui-favoured river valley.

It is easy to romanticize life in the tulou, but this great wall of yellow mud brick is increasingly becoming mottled by modern block buildings, constructed by practical minded clan members no longer so passionate about defense - or communal living.

Outstanding Nanxi Valley tulou such as Yanxianglou with its multi-halled courtyard, intricately carved wood beam brackets and moss-green-glaze trim, are well preserved, but only six family members permanently live there. Yanxianglou’s favourable Fengshui has produced generations of scholars and an outward looking culture. Fifth generation owner Mr Su explains that the decorative main gate is like the mouth of a dragon, perfectly situated to capture the treasures that flow from a mountain stream right by his tulou. Many of the Su clan now seek their fortunes further afield.

Autumn is tea-leaf green, sharp sunlight and bright blue skies in neighboring Nanjing County’s tulou. Many non-Hakka farmers have replicated or moved into vacated tulou in this area, planting tea

Student and adult Tulou cycling tours are operated by The Hutong - a cultural centre in Beijing that facilitates service and educational immersion trips for international school students. Email: [email protected]

CYCLING AMIDST THE TULOU’S RUSTIC RURAL SCENES

BRUCE WITH THE HUTONG’S AUTUMN TEA AND TULOU ECO CYCLE

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SEED CORN DRYING IN A TRADITONAL FUJIAN TULOU


hedges that zebra stripe the terraced slopes. The cool autumn air is rich with the scent of leaves being roasted into fragrant oolongs by small scale farmers.

But it’s when you get past the touristy tulou and deeper into the tea fields that the traditional hospitality of the Fujianese properly kicks in. Tea is served immediately upon entering more remote tulou - and with “gongfu” ceremony - brewed with a lot of leaf in a small-lidded bowl, decanted into a jug after a few seconds, then poured into one-sip

http://thehutong.com/fujian-tea-tulou-getaway/ www.fuyulou.com/English/index.aspx

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cups, that are instantly refilled as you sit and talk tea-nuance around a low tea table.

Winter time is mist in the valleys, crackled lotus leaves in the ponds, and a few lonely persimmons hanging starkly from naked trees. Good Fengshui means shelter from weather extremes and tulou walls by design provide a measure of insulation. A number of tulou offer beds to travellers, including the spectacular 5-Phoenix Mansion, Fuyulou, in the now sealed world heritage Hongkeng village of Hukeng Town.

Sixth generation resident and guesthouse manager Stephen Lin, repeats the optimistic adage that winters are neither too cold or the summers too hot in the Fujian tulou, but the electric

blankets in his guestrooms are godsent. Bright red lanterns adorn his rambling old tulou mansion, which still feels alive with its sixty residents, international guests, and delicious Hakka home-style cooking.

Spring time is once again tea time in the Nanjing tulou district. Prized first tips are hand plucked in the start of May, and cyclists must dodge leaves laid out to dry on mats by the road. Farmers rake and toss the leaves to ensure even oxidization. Seven more processes are required to transform raw leaf into the famous tea of the region - Tie Guanyin (Iron Goddess of Mercy tea) - easily observed by stopping at the many roadside factories. Roasting leaves again perfume the air mixed with the fragrance of osmanthus and magnolia flowers in the grander courtyards, plum blossoms in the hills, as well as the more rustic farming smells of pigs, chickens and home cooking in the humbler tulou homes.

Like the changing of the seasons, the culture of the tulou is constantly transforming. Tourism may be a new springtime, bringing growth and new life. Cycling pushes these benefits a little deeper into the country. It fosters too, a more holistic appreciation of the connection between the culture and landscape.

Mostly however it gets you closer to the fun, and a better cup of tea.

Bruce first travelled to the Fujian Tulou 8 years ago, and then returned in 2013 to research the more remote tulou as a cycle destination for The Hutong.

XIAO FU WEN IN THE COURTYARD OF QING XING TULOU

SUMMERTIME IN XINNAN VILLAGE, NANXI VALLEY


YANXIAING TULOU HAS EXCEPTIONAL FENGSHUI


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The outstanding natural attractions of this drive begin right from the start, at the Royal National Park.

The drive includes coastal rainforests and villages, and the magnificent Sea Cliff Bridge.

Natural highlights along the driveLocated in Warrawong, Futureworld Eco-Technology Centre offers an educational ecotourism experience through interactive exhibitions. A unique experience that is perfect for families with hands on activities for young & old.

The Royal National Park marks the start of Grand Pacific Drive and is the second oldest National Park in the world. Only 32 km from Sydney, the Royal packs incredible natural diversity into a relatively small area.

Symbio Wildlife Park is Wollongong’s own award-winning, family owned zoo. Set in 16 acres of bush parkland, the zoo is famous for providing genuine hands-on encounters. Symbio promotes: “Man and animal living together in harmony for mutual benefit.” The zoo is one of Australia’s fastest growing animal parks.

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water can be witnessed when the seas are running from the south-east (this is the best time to view the blowhole).The blowhole is one of the top highlights of the Grand Pacific Drive.

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Don’t miss one of Australia’s most stunning scenic coastal drives, arguably one of the best drive’s to explore in your campervan. The award-winning Grand Pacific Drive is a 140km coastal drive south from Sydney, to Wollongong, and beyond.

NaturalGrandeur

Our Planet Travel edition 2

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