Notes on anObsession

by Olivier Dupon

• October 2017 •

Each month in this column, I will share my se-cret jewellery discoveries with you; a selec-tion of up to five jewellery pieces based on their craftsmanship and inspiring creativity. Only one-of-a-kind (or limited edition) jew-els, chosen from all around the world, will make the cut. It is not about value (pieces could start from a few thousands up to mil-lions), yet these pieces could be as much a good financial investment as an emotion-al one. There will be no theme other than uniqueness in all aspects. It is exclusively on Deluxe Pad for you to peruse, appreciate and eventually make your own.

Olivier Dupon

Notes on an Obsession

In this month’s ‘Notes on an Obsession’, my attention was drawn to three earring and ring sets in three very different styles. In each case the pieces are sold sepa-rately; however, worn together they guarantee a strik-ingly head-turning look. First is a twofold duo from the Merveilles Collection by Boghossian. The Merveilles setting of brilliant-cut diamonds softens the hexagonal shapes and the sharp spiky edge of the earrings, while the Colombian emeralds project an electrifying verdant depth. There is nothing ostentatious about this pair, yet their rather minimalist design is deceptive since the Merveilles setting is a complex feat of craftsmanship.

www.boghossianjewels.com

Notes on an ObsessionOctober 2017

‘Merveilles Ring’ in 18k white gold set with one 14.88-carat Colombian, no oil, hexagonal-shaped emerald and 4.40 carats of D VVS round brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

‘Merveilles Drops Earrings’ in 18K white gold set with two Colombian hexagonal-shaped emeralds (respectively 8.51cts and 8.46cts), 9.98 carats of D-F VVS round brilliant-cut diamonds and 1.09 carats of small brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Notes on an ObsessionOctober 2017

Ring in 18K yellow gold set with one approx. 23-carat tourmaline from Mozambique, within a framework of carved coral and diamond pavé-set prongs, atop a field of brown eggshell and lacquer coquille d’oeuf. POA.

There is something tribal about this ring and earrings by Nicholas Varney. Is it the bro-ken eggshell texture on the ring basket, the complex pattern of open work and paved motifs on the earrings or the bird of para-dise colourways? Just as certain species don vivid colours and elaborate patterns to at-tract the opposite sex or repel larger preda-tors, these two renditions fit the description. Both are glamorous and somehow talisman-ic; emphatically defining a bolder type of el-egance that is not afraid of colours and su-perb intricacies. The outcome is unique, the hallmarks of a creative seer.

www.nicholasvarneyjewels.com

Ear clips in 18K yellow gold set with a pair of round-cut spinels (respectively 5.03cts and 6.68cts), on a decorative scrolling background pavéd with 146 round-cut diamonds (approx. 3.70cts) and numerous round-cut black diamonds, purple sapphires, with carved coral centres. POA.

Notes on an ObsessionOctober 2017

‘Cosmos Ring’ in 18K yellow gold with Tahitian black pearls and diamonds. POA.

‘Cosmos Earrings’ in 18K yellow gold with Tahitian black pearls and diamonds. POA.

Now let’s take a journey high above our stratosphere. The ‘Cosmos Earrings and Ring’ by Brazilian jeweller Amsterdam Sauer will transport you to a place where pearls become galaxies, diamonds orbit satellites and yellow gold rings loop and spin in endless swirls. The simplicity of the lines bring into focus the idea of motion, and while the yellow gold strings keep a circular momentum, the Tahitian black pearls of various sizes seem to float or roll, their gorgeous iridescence capturing the light and our mes-merised gaze at the same time. It is a very modern proposition, demon-strating how pearls are suited to all sorts of designs and not just tradition-al propositions (also see The Spell of Pearls article - Deluxe Pad June 2017 - Haute Joaillerie section).

www.amsterdamsauer.com.br

‘Stormy Weather Ring’ in rose gold set with a dendritic agate and white diamonds; Pomellato Ritratto collection. POA. ‘Notte Afgana Ring’ in

rose gold set with a lapis lazuli and brown diamonds; Pomellato Ritratto collection. POA.

During Paris Couture this July, Pomellato has previewed the creation of fifty one-of-a-kind rings to honour its 50th Anniversary. The rings were officially unveiled at Milan Fashion Week recently. This special collection centres on fifty different hard stones that have been grouped within three chromatic families. Each stone has been individually chosen according to its charac-ter, and mounted in the manner of the Ritratto collec-tion, which Pomellato debuted in early 2017. Inspired by miniature portraits, the Ritratto concept celebrates a central stone that is grasped by two claws, one of which is gem-paved. Moreover the rings are gently torqued so as to unexpectedly instil movement. Faced with an impossible choice (which of the fifty rings shall I feature as they are all strong and I cannot display all of them?), Vincenzo Castaldo, Pomellato’s director of creation, kindly elected the following five rings.

www.pomellato.com

Notes on an ObsessionOctober 2017

‘Secret Garden Ring’ in rose gold set with a zoisite and rubies; Pomellato Ritratto collection. POA.

‘Sleeping Beauty Ring’ in rose gold set with a turquoise and mandarin garnets; Pomellato Ritratto collection. POA.

‘Pink Hawaiian Peony Ring’ in rose gold set with a rhodochrosite and emeralds; Pomellato Ritratto collection. POA.

Notes on an ObsessionOctober 2017

From Russia comes this dazzling ‘Fern’ bracelet made of a rather un-conventional metal, palladium, a lustrous silvery-white brother of platinum, which is very light and high wear resistant. But of course this fact should not overshadow the design of the bracelet itself. In the manner of high jewellery that has the appeal of decorative fash-ion jewellery, this floral piece by Treasure House plays on movement (each petal flicks whenever one rotates the wrist) and lavishness (in terms of colours and density of the foliage). You would not need any-thing else than this full bloom garland to complement your outfit for it is equally show-stopping and old world elegant.

www.uvelir.com

‘Fern’ bracelet in palladium and 18K gold set with

chrysolites, citrines, garnets, tsavorites

and diamonds. POA.