8/12/2019 Naturals to Nutraceuticals, Sun Care Revolutionized, Plus Sunscreen Symposium Plans Underway

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Naturals to Nutraceuticals, Sun Care Revolutionized, Plus Sunscreen

Symposium Plans Underway

Nancy Jeffries - Apr 24, 2007

Sunscreen Product Utilizes Chelators for Protection

According to Dr. Dennis Gross, creator of the MD Skincare line, Powerful Sun Protection SPF 30 Lotion Spray,its newest format, and Powerful Sun Protection SPF 30 Packettes, in the same formulation, add new innovationto preventing sun damage. "Heavy metals, particularly iron and copper, are found in tap water, sweat and on skin.The metals are free radicals themselves, but the presence of sunlight can energize them further to cause DNAmutation implicated in skin cancer, wrinkling and skin aging. The chelating complex in this product helpscounteract this mechanism," says Dr. Gross. In the product, chelators are said to bind with the iron particles andsequester them from the skin to reduce DNA mutations and collagen breakdown. In addition to the iron-encapsulating chelator, the product also contains lycopenes to diminish damage from the sun's free radicals.Green Tea extract to help reverse sun damage and powerful antioxidants such as Vitamins a, C and E to provide

broad-spectrum sun protection.

MD Powerful SunSpray Lotion

The product offers a lightweight, greaseless formula, said to dry quickly and leave no sticky residue or unpleasantodor. It can be applied daily to the face and body in the AM and should be applied at least 30 minutes prior todirect sun exposure. The product may also be applied prior to a daily moisturizer as well as makeup application.Dr. Dennis Gross, a dermatologist who received his medical training at New York University Medical Center, andis currently in private practice as a dermatologist and dermatological surgeon in New York City, created the MDSkincare products, which are available at Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom, Sephora and selected spasnationwide.

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Powerful Sun Protection Box MD PackettesSPF 30

www.mdskincare.com

Natural Sun Care and Dual Protection

2000 2006 2011

World

Sun care 3557.1 6200.4 7634.3

Sun protection 2914.1 5071.2 6313.6

Af tersun 289.6 452.1 525.5

Self-tanning 353.4 677.1 795.2

USA

Sun care 994.5 1357 1454.2

Sun protection 786.8 1009.6 1068.6

Aftersun 22.4 26.6 26.3

Self-tanning 185.3 320.8 359.4

Historic and forecast - retail value rsp - US$ mn

Zia's Ultimate Age-Defying Solar Care Face SPF 15 and 30 are said to deliver dual-action sun protection againstsun damage and visible aging. According to the company, UVA and UVB sun filters are blended with reparativenutrients like green tea, ginseng and Vitamin E to defend against photoaging. The oil-free formulation of theproducts is said to control surface shine and does not feel greasy or sticky. In addition, the product is water- andsweat-resistant for active lifestyles, illustrating two of the desirable characteristics cited by Euromonitor in itsanalysis of sun care protection statistics and demographics.

U Solar Body Zia

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Among the ingredient features and benefits are the inclusion ofAvobenzone (Parsol 1789), to provide protectionagainst UVA rays; as well as green tea, cucumber and Vitamin E, to fight inflammation and cell damage. Theproduct offers an emulsifier-free formula, which provides water- and sweat-resistance, without clogging additives.It is to be applied 30 minutes prior to sun exposure, and reapplied after swimming, towel dryin or excessiveperspiration. Zia Age-Defying Solar Care Body SPF 15, according to the company, delivers the same dual-actionsun protection against sun damage and visible aging, with a combination of reparative nutrients and ingredientsincluding glycerin, chamomile and sodium hyaluronate, to hydrate and soothe the skin. Zia Ultimate Age-DefyingFace SPF retails for $15.95, Zia Ultimate Age-Defying Face SPF 30, is $16.95; and Zia Age-Defying NaturalBody SPF 15, retails for $13.95.

U Solar Face Zia

www.zianatural.com.

Sunscreen Symposium Planned for September 6-9, 2007

Every two years the sun care experts convene in southern Florida, to discuss their research in sun care

protection, ingredient technologies and synergies, UV filters, self-tanners, and legislation and the regulatoryenvironment. The upcoming Symposium will be called, Global Solutions for Global Issues, and will explore suncare, anti-aging and skin care innovations for the future. Worldwide industry experts will meet to discuss thechallenges in this area, and global suppliers will showcase the latest in raw materials and products needed toachieve goals demanded by current and future consumers. A free sun and skin care course will be offered withregistration, as well.

The Sunscreen Symposium Chair is Saad Ashoor, who may be contacted at s.ashoor@lipochemicals.com, andRegistration Forms may be found at www.scconline.org, under Florida Chapter News and Events. The event isnow calling for Posters and authors are invited to submit titles and abstracts until the deadline of August 1, 2007,or until space is full. Abstracts may be submitted to Saad Ashoor.

www.scconline.org

Ingredient News from Cognis Care Chemicals

According to Cognis it is essential to consider the performance criteria of the cosmetic ingredients used, whendeveloping modern sun care products, as many raw materials show synergistic effects. "With Care Chemicals'multifunctional raw materials formulations may be improved, e.g., by enhancing the efficacy of the UV filters,increasing the stability of emulsions, and optimizing costs," according to the company. The choice of theemollient is the key to any sun care formulation and sunscreen solubility and SPF can be enhanced by selectingthe right product. "A key ingredient in this respect is Celtiol CC, a fast and easy spreading emollient that createsa dry, velvety feel on the skin," according to the company. It is said to be suitable for sun protection applicationsbecause of its solubilizing capacity for crystalline UV filters as well as its dispersing properties for pigments.

Another example from Cognis' emollient portfolio is Cetiol SenSoft, an emollient that enables manufacturers tomeet demand for a sensorial and holistic product experience. Cetiol SenSoft is highly compatible with commonlyused raw materials, is said to offer excellent hydrolytic stability, good UV filter solubilizng power, and has theability to wet powder. It is therefore suitable for sun care products.

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The company also offers Cosmedia SP - Cognis' emulsifying polymer, to provide a unique sensorial andperformance profile. It is designed to minimize the oily feeling of UV filters, waterproofing agents and a broadrange of emollients. The product is also cold and hot processable, and leads to stable emulsions from lotions tocreams and spray formulations. Another emulsifier option for cold-processable, energy-efficient manufacturing isEumulgin VL 75. According to Cognis, it is an E)-free emulsifier derived solely from vegetable sources, and isused as an emulsifier with excellent skin compatibility. It can lead to various sun care emulsions includingsprayable ones with very good temperature storage stability.

Cognis further states, "P.I.T (Phase Inversion Temperature) technology continues to offer a true solution for water-

thin, dilutable, stable emulsion systems without any homogenization step. Sprays for use in sun care, as well asself-tan products, are easy to use and a convenience to end consumers." Cognis adds, that their water-in-oilemulsions can provide a uniform film on the skin, leaving a protective layer and constant hydration. "DehymulsPGPH, Lameform TGI and Monomuls 90-o-18 are efficient and flexible w/o emulsifiers, allowing for highlydiversified formulations including sprays with excellent sensorial properties." Cognis also notes their "DNAphytoguardian," concept, which is said to prevent skin sun-induced damages via protection of the DNA patrimonyof cells. "UV radiation damages both nuclear and mitochondrial DNA, which encodes the proteins required tocreate ATP (Adenosine Triphosphate). DN-Age LS 9653, according to Cognis, reduces the damage created onboth DNAs after exposure to sunlight. The product is extracted from the candle tree, Senna alata, contains anactive tracer, and has been clinically proven to prevent sun-induced alteration of microrelief, as well as toeffectively support the endogenous repair of skin cell DNA (in vitro test)," according to Cognis. It is said to besuitable for use in a wide range of products, such as creams that support the skin's natural defensemechanisms, skin care ranges that combat photo-aging, and anti-aging sun protection products.

www.cognis.com.

Dow Corning Silicone Materials Enhance Efficacy of Sun Care Products

Van Reeth notes, "In formulations that contain organic sunscreens (e.g., octinoxate, octisalate and avobenzone),stearyl dimethicone (a soft AMS wax that melts on contact with skin) works best. Like cetyl dimethicone, it issubstantive on skin for extended protection. The addition of stearyl dimethicone in a prototype oil-in-water suncare lotion allowed a reduction in the quantity of UVB sunscreen from 11% to 6 % to achieve the same SPFvalue."

Further, "In another prototype example, when a 2% addition of a high melt point AMS wax replaced an equalportion of mineral oil, the in vitro SPF increased from 9.7 to 17.1. The wax acts as a moisturizing agent byproviding occlusivity to help reduce moisture loss," said Van Reeth. Said Van Reeth, "These examples illustratehow AMS allows formulators to maximize the effectiveness of sunscreen agents in a formulation while reducingtheir amount to achieve a desirable SPF. At the same time, potential irritation caused by sunscreen actives canbe reduced if less is required in the formulation. The mechanism by which AMS impacts SPF is by optimizingthe rheology so the product spreads easily on the skin during application. This shear-thinning effect permits evendistribution of the sunscreen, followed by a 'rebuild' in viscosity to maintain a homogeneous film of sunscreenactive."

Van Reeth also notes, Phenyl trimethicone, which spreads easily to form a non-oily, non-tacky film that can aidwash-off resistance. "Like other silicones, phenyl trimethicone has an impact on the SPF. The addition of 5%phenyl trimethicone to a prototype sunscreen formulation increased in vitro SPF nearly five-fold, from 5.87 to27.5. An unusual advantage of phenyl trimethicone is its sand-proofing effect. With its lack of tackiness andgreasiness, the film formed on the skin reduces the adherence of sand.Although coarse grains do not easilystick to the skin, fine sand causes poor aesthetics and discomfort because it immediately adheres to the skin."

Ultra high molecular weight silicone emulsion is based on a patented technology that can be used to develop suncare products with good wash-off resistance and a unique, long-lasting and smooth skin feel. This new producthas been used in two novel formulation concepts, sprayable sun products and sun protection wipes for children.

Silicone elastomers, recognized for their distinctive powdery skin feel, also enhance SPF in certain types offormulations. The addition of 4% silicone elastomer blend to a prototype sun care formulation containing organicsunscreens increased the SPF from 5.7 to 18. Silicone elastomers materials combine god efficiency andaesthetics, helping the bench chemist to meet two important trends for sun care products, high SPF andconsumer friendliness.

Amine-functional silicones as well as other silicones, are utilized for the reduced impact of UV radiation oncolored hair. Although silicones do not directly protect against UV rays as organic sunscreens do, studies have

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