Natural England Technical Information Note TIN039 -...

Natural England Technical Information Note TIN039

First edition 13 March 2008 www.naturalengland.org.uk

Devon field boundaries: restoration standards for agri-environment schemes This guidance has been developed to support farmers, landowners and contractors in Devon and the immediate locality who are receiving funding for boundary restoration through an agri-environment scheme. It aims to promote best practice for boundary restoration and clarifies the restoration standards required to qualify for capital grants. You must also comply with the capital work specifications. Natural England manage the schemes on behalf of Defra and require the use of locally traditional materials and methods, which complement the local landscape and enhance wildlife habitat.

Background Devon hedge banks and stone walls are a key element of the county landscape character, and a fascinating historical record of mans use of the land over the centuries. They are also valuable wildlife habitats and agriculturally important, providing shelter for livestock and crops. Unlike hedgerows in other parts of Britain, the Devon hedge usually consists of an earth bank, which is faced either with turf or stone depending upon the local availability of stone, and will normally have hedge plants established along the top. True Devonians will refer to these structures as ''hedges'' (even when there are no hedge plants) but for the purposes of this document, the term ''hedge bank'' refers to the earth and /or stone structure and the hedge on top.

Hedge banks are susceptible to rapid erosion through high rainfall, and damage by livestock and burrowing animals. In addition, oversized hedge material on top of the bank can fall over, taking earth and stone with it. All boundaries require routine maintenance, interspersed with periodic restoration to keep them in good condition. This document covers the restoration of earth banks, stone faced banks and dry stone walls, as well as the rejuvenation of the hedge growing on top.

Archaeological interest Before any work is carried out on your field boundaries you should consider the presence of important archaeological features, either above or below ground, to avoid any inadvertent damage to them. Many stone faced banks and walls are built on top of earlier structures such as a prehistoric field bank, pound wall, hut circle or medieval boundary.

Often the lower courses of field boundaries are of considerable age and archaeological importance. Hedges may follow parish boundaries of considerable age.

Information on recorded archaeological sites and features can be obtained from the County Council or the National Park Authority. You should always liaise with your local Natural England adviser before proceeding with any project.

Boundary restoration Bank restoration with hedge restoration Agri-environment scheme capital grants are often given for restoring banks in conjunction with hedge restoration, which includes hedge laying, hedge coppicing and gapping up with new plants. Banks must not


Devon field boundaries: restoration standards for agri-environment schemes

be restored at the expense of the hedge growth on top of them. It is important to ensure that the hedge growth will make a full recovery when bank restoration work is complete, by not burying coppiced or laid stems below a great volume of soil.

Please note:

• Restoration to banks with hedges must not be carried out between 1 March - 31st July, ie during the bird nesting season.

• Care must be taken when restoring walls or banks around mature trees, so as not to damage their roots with machinery.

• Do not attempt earth bank restoration in periods of drought or very wet weather as this will result in an unstable structure.

• All healthy mature hedgerow trees should be left in situ (please see Hedgerow tree section).

• Restoring an existing, or creating a new, turf bank is skilled work. If you do not have the necessary skills to complete the work to the required standard, we recommend that you employ a reputable contractor.

Gateways If gateways are to be widened during any kind of wall or bank restoration, or a new opening created, you should consult either the relevant National Park Authority or the Local Planning Authority in relation to the Hedgerow Regulations and any Planning Permission that may be needed.

Earth bank restoration The aim is to restore degraded earth banks to their original profile. The profile can be established by reference to other hedge banks on the holding, and traditional practices in the area. All old fencing must be removed before work starts and under no circumstances should it be buried under the new earth.

The original soil, which has slipped from the bank over time, should be used to build the bank up to the required height. There are often clues to the original height of the bank, such as old laid stems or exposed tree roots, but where no evidence remains a rough guide to height is 1.2 - 1.5m (4 - 5ft). Do not build the bank to an

excessive height, as this will compromise stability.

Figure 1 Good example of restored earth bank with hedge laying

When it is necessary to add a considerable amount of soil to re-establish the original profile of an eroded bank, the soil should be built up in well consolidated layers, to ensure that the structure is stable. Where little soil is readily available a narrow margin of the field close to the bank may be stripped, setting aside the turves for use later. If these bare margins are to be sown at a later date you should discuss this with your local adviser, so that a suitable seed mixture can be chosen.

Where small sections of the bank have been stone faced, but it is not practical to restore the facing along the entire length, you are required to repair these using the fallen stone found on site. Stone work around gateways should also be restored. Where no such stone work exists it is good practice to stone around the gateway to prevent erosion and damage from livestock or machinery (for details see section on stone walling).

To ensure stability the finished face of the bank should slope inwards to create a ''batter,'' such that the base of the bank is wider than the top (see figure 2). Turves should be laid onto the crown and sides of the bank, this will help bind the structure together and prevent soil slippage in wet weather. On completion the ''top line'' of the bank should be level, and where appropriate a hedge established or restored on top.



NB. Turf will not be needed on top of the bank when a new hedge is to be planted, as a mulch will be used around the new plants.

Figure 2 Earth Bank showing ideal degree of batter

There will be some shrinkage as the earth settles and the soil dries out. With this in mind, if you are planning to plant a new hedge on top of the bank, you should wait at least twelve months so that the earth has time to settle.

New banks When planning to build a new bank you should always liaise with your local adviser, who can advise you on any possible landscape impact, the form of the bank and the appropriate planting options bearing in mind local environmental conditions. Similarly, if you are planning to incorporate a ditch into your new hedge bank, your local adviser can advise on the likely impact on surrounding agreement land.

New banks should be sited on the line of an old boundary wherever possible. This can be ascertained from old Ordnance Survey maps or by checking aerial photographs. Ensure that the soil used to create the new bank stays firmly in place by building it up in layers, using turf and compacting it well into shape. Subsoil-type material (preferably with clay content and some stone) should be used for the lower layers, and topsoil (with no stones) for the upper layers. You should allow plenty of time for each layer to settle before adding the next layer.

It is essential that the soil is moist and well consolidated, especially when building on a slope or when working with light soils. In difficult

conditions stone facing up to approximately half of the height will help to stabilise the structure. Where this is not necessary the bank should be turfed on the sides and crown. Please refer to figure 3 for the suggested dimensions.

It is not acceptable to simply scrape loose earth and debris into a pile to create your bank. This will not create a stable structure and the earth will soon slip away in wet weather. This standard of work would not qualify for an agri-environment scheme capital grant.

For advice on planting a hedge on top of your new bank, please refer to the hedge planting section.

Figure 3 Cross section showing construction of new earth

bank

Dropped banks Where you have a dropped bank, with only a small bank (if any) on the higher side of the slope, do not build this up too high as the earth will only slip back downhill. The main face of the bank will be on the lower side and the degree of batter (slope) should be greater than a normal bank (approximately 15-25 degrees on higher side and 65- 75 degrees on lower side) to ensure stability. The degree of batter will however vary according to site and conditions (figure 4).

Casting up Casting up is the term used for the process of digging out material slumped from the bank (or burrowed out by animals) and replacing it on the



crown of the bank. The finished surface should be level. Casting up allows a level fence line close to the foot of the bank.

Figure 4 Dropped bank showing degree of batter

When casting up a hedge bank with a ditch, the material cleared from the ditch will be placed on the crown of the bank. Ditches of high environmental value, often indicated by standing water and a range of aquatic plants, should be cleared out in stages to lessen the impact on the wildlife habitat. For example, clear out either one side of the ditch along its full length, or both sides along half its length up to a maximum of 50m. Clearance must not cut deeper into the ditch than the original base level.

Figure 5 Maintenance of stone faced bank by casting up

and erecting a fence

When putting material on top of the bank ensure that newly coppiced stools or laid material are not buried in deep earth.

For further guidance on restoring ditches please contact your local adviser.

Protective fencing Unless otherwise agreed in writing with your local adviser, on completion of restoration work you will need to safeguard the new bank from livestock damage by erecting protective fencing close to the base of the bank.

Stone faced Devon bank A stone faced Devon bank is an earth bank, which is faced on one or both sides with stone, and supported by an infill of well consolidated earth. The style of the stone work can vary greatly.

Stone facing should be undertaken in accordance with the best standards, traditions and designs of your district. The style should always be consistent with other stone work in the immediate locality. Where the original stone is no longer available, eg it has been removed in the past or is not in a viable condition to be re-used, replacement stone must be sourced locally and be of a type used in the area. Stone must not be taken from other walls, hedge banks or buildings. Old features of the wall such as creep holes or built in granite troughs should be restored and retained.

Preparation for restoring a stone faced bank should involve carefully stripping loose stone back by hand until there are firm stones to build upon. The basal courses should not be disturbed as these could be of archaeological importance. If building a new section of stone facing, the largest stones should be set in firmly, well below ground level, to form a solid foundation.

The natural face of the stone should be used to determine how the stones are set. Build up in courses, using progressively smaller stones nearer the top of the wall and ensure that the stones sit firmly on the course below. On completion of each course it is important to backfill with earth and small stones and tamp down well to form a solid core before continuing with the next course.

The joints should be staggered as in brickwork and long stones should be incorporated at staggered intervals to run back lengthways into the middle of the hedgebank as tie stones (see figure 6).



The face of the bank should have a slight batter (slope), and the overall profile should be slightly concave. This will help combat bulging and strengthen the finished bank. It will also be some deterrent to sheep. Depending on local practice, the top should be finished off either with a row of large flat stones, vertical stones or a layer of turf, all of which will help to secure the courses below. A suitable hedge may be planted on top.

Figure 6 Cross section of stone faced bank

Existing stone work around gateways should also be restored. Where there is currently no stone work, stoning up is recommended to prevent erosion and damage from livestock or machinery. There are two types of wall ending; the square form, which has tie stones across the end, and a quoin, which has a rounded end (for more details see the stone walling section).

Please note:

• Haul stone only when ground conditions are firm enough to prevent damage to adjacent fields.

• A supplementary payment is available where significant quantities of stone need to be imported.

• On completion of the job the site should be left level and tidy with any earth pits filled in and surplus stone removed.

• Restoring a stone faced Devon bank is skilled work. If you do not have the necessary skills to complete the work to the required standard, then we recommend that you employ a reputable contractor.

Dry stone walling Dry stone walling should be undertaken in accordance with the best standards, traditions and designs of your district. The style should always be consistent with other walls in the immediate locality This may include undressed or single skin constructions or the absence of through stones. In some areas mortared walls may be locally traditional. Where these are to be restored a suitable lime mortar mix should be used, which is breathable and will not crack like ordinary cement.

Figure 7 Newly restored stone faced bank

Where existing walls are being renovated the old wall should be taken down to its foundations before starting work. Where the original stone is no longer available, eg it has been removed in the past or is not in a viable condition to be re-used, replacement stone must be sourced locally and be of a type used in the area. Stone must not be taken from other walls, hedge banks or buildings. Old features of the wall, such as creep holes or built in granite troughs, should be restored and retained.

Please note:

• Haul stone only when ground conditions are firm enough to prevent damage to adjacent fields.

• A supplementary payment is available where stone needs to be brought in.

• The site should be left level and tidy, with surplus stone removed from the site, any earth



pits filled in and any disturbed areas returned to grass. Building or restoring a dry stone wall is skilledwork. If you do not have the necessary scomplete the work to t

• kills to

he required standard, then we recommend that you employ a reputable contractor.

Figure 8 Example of a dry stone w

Building a double skinned wall The foundations or footings should consist of two rows of the largest, evenly shaped stones available, set into a trench of firm subsoil, ashould be about 75mm (3'') wider than the basof the wall. Place stones with their longest dimension running into the centre of the wall, with rubble stone packed firmly

all

nd e

around them. Soil and other fine stone should not be used as infill because it will wash out.

Figure 9 Example of a dry stone wall

Build up the stones layer by layer, always

as you go. Each stone should be firmly seaton the course below, incorpora

maintaining the infill slightly higher than the face

ed ting long tie

stones at staggered intervals.

t

he wall, seated firmly to create a strong tie.

The joints must be broken as in building brickwork and the stones should be set level, orpreferably with a slight outward slope to assisdrainage. There must be at least one row of through stones at least the width of t

ned Figure 10 Cross section and top view of double skinll wa

Figure 11 Square form of wall endin

There should be two even faces that follow the g

batter with no bulges or protruding stones other



than the through stones. The wall should taper evenly on both sides to the top.

Coping stones on the top should sit on a level finish and should either be large flat slabs in upright or sloping position or built in castellated style. These stones must be the full width of the wall and sit firmly on both sides to hold the wall secure.

There are two types of wall ending; the square form, which has tie stones across the end, and a quoin, which has a rounded end.

Figure 12 Round form of wall ending

Corn Ditches This type of boundary has a ditch and a vertical stone face against the moor, and a sloping earth bank on the field side. The precise nature of the boundary can vary greatly in size and form.

Corn ditches are most likely to be found on the edge of open moorland and can date back to the medieval period. They were designed to deter animals from getting into the fields, and allow an easy exit to those who had managed to get in. Today they are found both on the outer edge of fields next to open moorland, and sometimes within enclosed farmland (indicating an earlier moorland boundary).

Please note:

Corn Ditches are important historic features. Restoration advice must be sought from your local adviser and from either an Historic Environment Adviser or your Local Authority

Archaeologist before carrying out any work on a corn ditch.

The following are guidelines only:

• The stone face on the moorland side should be repaired only as necessary to restore any collapsed sections. Care should be taken that these are built to match the existing stone work. Stone should be retrieved from the backfill of the ditch and subsequently reused. Any new stone imported must be sourced locally and must match the original stone.

Figure 13 Cross section of corn ditch showing position of fence

• When a severely degraded stone face is stripped right back in preparation for restoration, ensure that thebasal courses of stone are not disturbed as these are often of archaeological importance.

• Do not disturb the earth slope on the field side or bank up the earth, as this will alter the original historic feature.

• Old fencing (that may have originally been erected on top of the corn ditch) must be replaced with a fence at the base of the slope or bank (see figure 13).

• On Common Land, if fencing is to be set at the base of the stone face you must obtain permission from the Secretary of State (contact Defra's Common Land Branch for more details).

• Angled side wiring can be erected on the moorland side of a corn ditch to prevent livestock from jumping up the wall onto the bank. Either steel or wooden posts can be used set at an angle below the top of the wall, with three strands of wire set close together (figure 14).



• be

inal

• d ll to

If the ditch is to be cleared out this must done sympathetically using a small machine or by hand, to ensure that earlier surfaces underneath are not disturbed. The ditch shouldnot be dug out any deeper than the origditch profile. Material taken from the ditch can be cast up onto the crown of the bank. Remove any large scrub or immature or deatrees from the top and sides of the waprevent the roots from damaging the stone work. Control any scrub on the bank.

Figure 14 Cross section of corn ditch showing position of top wiring

le. This ard against losses of wildlife

sult ee from gaps

and has the potential to reach a stockproof condition within a five year period.

Hedge restoration It is not desirable to lay or coppice every overgrown hedge on the holding. As a guide, approximately 10% of the hedges, spread across the holding, should be laid or coppiced in any one year. This is to create a patchwork effect, with hedges of different age structures at different stages of the management cycapproach will safeguhabitat or shelter for livestock within a concentrated area.

Good hedge restoration should aim to achieve acomplete rejuvenation of the hedge by a combination of hedge laying and/or coppicing and gapping up with new plants. The end reshould be a thick hedge, which is fr

It is vital that the hedge planting element of a restoration project, (even if only gapping up) is not forgotten. This can be the difference between a successful or an unsuccessful restoration project.

In situations where a hedge bank has not been managed for many years, restoration may take longer than one season. For example a severely eroded bank will need considerable amounts of new soil to return it to its original height. In this situation not all of the coppiced stools or laid material will grow again and new hedge plants must be planted in the following autumn to replace any loss of hedge.

Ideally the majority of hedges should be traditionally managed after restoration, allowing the tops to grow up in readiness for laying, trimming the sides when necessary. This will not be practical for all hedges. Some will be managed by more regular trimming, for example roadside hedges. Please see the hedge trimming section for guidance on sympathetic trimming.

It is advisable to trim newly laid or coppiced hedges hard within the first two years after restoration. The timing of this will depend upon the species composition of the hedge and how fast it grows. Trimming hard will ensure that the plants thicken up in the base, before growing up again in readiness for laying or coppicing.

Unless otherwise agreed in writing with your local adviser, newly restored hedges should be protected by fencing close to the base of the bank to prevent livestock from nibbling the new shoots.

Hedge coppicing Coppicing is generally undertaken when a hedge stem is too thick to lay, when stems are too infrequent to lay or when regeneration of an outgrown hedge is required. Work should be carried out between mid November and mid March when the hedge is dormant, and before the sap begins to rise. It should be completed before the bird nesting season, generally early March to end of July.



Before coppicing all old fencing or wire should be removed. The stems should then be cut down to between 7.5 and 15 cm (3'' and 6'') from the top of the bank to encourage vigorous re-growth from the base of the plant. Angle the cuts so that water can easily run off.

Note, since holly does not favour being cut down too severely, you will need to coppice it a little higher than specified above, making sure there are several growth nodes left uncut to prevent die-back. Mature beech does not coppice well either , and it will die if too much wood is cut. You should leave one growing beech stem in each stump to help keep the root alive and ensure that new shoots emerge.

Cut material should be removed from the immediate site and disposed of by burning or chipping. This should be carried out so as not to cause any environmental damage.

If coppicing is undertaken in conjunction with bank restoration, you should avoid smothering the coppiced stools with earth by coppicing the stems at the proposed height of the finished bank. This will ensure that the hedge has enough light to grow. If this is not feasible, as so much new earth was required to build up a severely eroded bank, then a new hedge will have to be planted.

Hedge laying Hedge laying is a method of regenerating an outgrown or gappy hedge and returning it to a stockproof condition. Selected stems (steepers) are partially cut to the base, laid along the top of the bank and secured in position, ideally with a wooden crook. The crooks are set at an angle inwards with the leg towards the centre of the hedge, so that livestock cannot hook them out (as shown in figure 15). The steepers will remain alive and send out new shoots, which will thicken to create new hedge growth. Where appropriate, local styles should be adopted.

Before laying, any old fencing or wire should be removed. Stems that are not being retained as hedge trees and are too big to lay, and any other unwanted growth, should be coppiced before you begin. Retain as many stems as possible. If major bank restoration is to be carried out it

should be done at this stage, before the hedge is laid. This will ensure that the steepers are laid along the top of a level bank, and that laid material does not get buried beneath a volume of earth.

Figure 15 Cut steeper laid along top of bank and (below) position of crook to hold down steepers

Figure 16 Good example of a laid hedge

If the hedge is to be cast up, and is wide enough, you can lay steepers in two rows along the top of the bank, so that the cast up material can be placed in between them on the crown of the bank. All material should be laid in the same direction if possible. Where the hedge runs upwards, lay uphill: where the hedge is level, lay towards the south.

Usually steepers will be less than 10 cm (4 inches) in diameter at the base, and 2.5 - 3.5 m (8 – 12 ft) in height. Small saplings should be cut about 5 cm (2 inches) above bank level, and larger ones about 15 cm (6 inches). Trim the cut



stub at an angle away from the steeper. Regrowth will be more successful from a clean cut, low stump.

Hedges are normally laid on an 8 - 15 year rotation, depending on the location of the hedge and its species composition. Laying should be carried out between mid-November and mid March when the hedge is dormant and before the sap begins to rise. It should be completed before the bird nesting season, generally early March to end of July. However, you need to bear in mind, that in milder winters birds may be nesting earlier.

The best species for laying are blackthorn, hawthorn, beech, hornbeam, hazel and holly (brittle) but in the absence of the more suitable species, oak, field maple, spindle, elm, willow and even dog rose will lay quite well.

All cut branches should be removed from the immediate site and disposed of by burning or chipping. This operation should only be carried out where there will be no environmental damage.

Gapping up It is important to remember that the standard payment rate for hedge restoration includes gapping up.

Any gaps in restored hedges should be replanted to ensure the continuity of the hedge. The extent to which you will need to replant will depend upon the successful regrowth of laid or coppiced material.

Planting up gaps can be done in the same season as coppicing or laying, particularly on sparser hedges where there is little potential for regrowth. On denser hedges it may be worth waiting to see what new growth appears, and plant any bare patches the following season. The disadvantage of waiting is that with the increased light levels, created by laying/ coppicing, there is likely to be vigorous plant growth on the bank making it more difficult to plant up. When a bank has been restored it is recommended that you wait for at least a year to allow the earth to settle before planting.

For the timing of planting and choice of species, please see the section below on Hedge Planting.

Hedgerow trees Hedgerow trees are important features in many landscapes. They also provide shelter for livestock and valuable wildlife habitat. They have been steadily disappearing from the Devon landscape over recent years partly due to disease (eg Dutch elm disease), old age, field amalgamation, and the practice of flail trimming hedges, which reduces the potential for saplings to mature into hedgerow trees. Where they are a feature in the surrounding landscape existing trees should be safeguarded and new hedgerow trees should be established for the future.

Figure 17 Hedgerow tree

During hedge restoration all healthy standard hedgerow trees should be retained. Where there are no trees present, or in recently planted hedges that are to be trimmed in future, either select promising specimens and leave them to mature or plant a few trees at random in the hedge. These saplings should be clearly marked or planted in tubes, to avoid damage during



hedge trimming. Machine operators need to be given clear instructions to avoid marked saplings.

Saplings should be planted at irregular spacings as hedgerow trees or as clumps of trees, particularly in field corners. Regularly spaced hedgerow trees look unnatural in the landscape. Trees can also be planted at the foot of the bank in field corners, where they will not get in the way of the hedge trimmer. Avoid establishing trees where there are overhead cables or risks to road safety.

Many native broadleaved tree species are suitable for maturing into standard hedgerow trees, depending on soil and environmental conditions

Oak is one of the most common hedgerow trees and holds the highest wildlife value. Slow growing, long lived and deep rooted, it helps to stabilise the hedge bank. It casts dense shade for livestock shelter.

Ash is quick growing and casts only a light shade. It is not a good shelter tree. It thrives in deep well drained loams.

Beech favours good drainage and can withstand exposure. It casts a heavy shade and only Beech and Holly will survive in the hedge beneath it. Plant this species only where it is locally characteristic.

Hawthorn matures into a lovely standard tree, high in landscape and wildlife value.

Holly casts a heavy shade and should only be encouraged to establish as a tree where it is growing in the hedge beneath.

Crab apple will make a successful standard hedgerow tree.

Whitebeam, and Wild Service Tree will grow well on chalk and limestone.

Rowan is useful in more exposed upland areas on acid soils.

Sycamore is tolerant of exposed conditions and salt spray.

Field maple thrives on well drained lowland soils and casts only light shade.

Hedge planting When creating a new hedgerow in Devon it is traditional to plant into an earth bank, rather than planting at ground level. Please see section on creating new earth banks.

When planting into a newly built/restored bank, you should first allow the earth to settle. This will often mean planting during the autumn following building. This will ensure the best chance of survival.

The ground should be prepared by either manual or, where appropriate, chemical means (taking account of the floristic interest of the site) and existing hedge material and vegetation cleared. As the soil in a hedge bank is often dry and lacking in nutrients it is advisable to use either containerised or root wrapped plants. Keep roots moist prior to planting and protect them from wind or frost damage.

Bare rooted nursery stock can be planted during the winter months from November to February, when the ground is not frozen. The best time to plant is in November as the weather and soil conditions are most suitable for root establishment. Holly and other evergreen species are best planted in September or early May to avoid the risk of frost damage.

Ideally, hedge plants should be two year old transplants, 45 - 60 cm (18 - 24') high. Planting should be in a double staggered row with each row set far enough apart to allow for the eventual casting up of earth between the rows. Plant at a density of 6 - 8 plants per linear metre.

The number of plants needed per metre will depend upon the size and species of the transplant and the planting conditions. Plant to the same depth as the plant was growing in the nursery or container.

To establish a successful stock proof hedge, the new hedging plants will need to be cut back two years after planting, to approximately 5 cm (2') high. Although this appears rather drastic, this



will allow them to shoot out and form bushy growth from the base.

Figure 18 Hedge planting method

Weed control Weed control may be needed for several years to control competitive weeds, which can kill the young plants by competing for soil moisture, nutrients and light. Weeds can be controlled by hand-pulling or by mulching with either wood chippings or 500 gauge black polythene 1 - 2 m wide. Mulching will also prevent the rapid drying of soil. Alternatively, an appropriate herbicide can be used for the first few years. Strimming is not recommended. In all cases where spraying is involved you must observe the requirements of current legislation and codes of practice. Replace any plants that have died in the following planting season.

The hedge plants may need to be protected from rabbit damage by spiral guards or tree tubes. Tubes are useful for very windy sites. Protective fencing will be needed to prevent damage by livestock and/or rabbits. The fence should be set back at least 1.2 metres from the centre of the hedge (if it is not on a bank) or close to the base of the bank.

Choice of species Plant native species that are already growing in the hedge or in the immediate locality. In species poor hedges, or when planting a new hedge, opportunities should be taken to include some of the other native shrubs, which will offer great

benefit to wildlife. Diversity of species will give a continuity and variety of food sources such as flowers, fruits, seeds and foliage throughout the year. However, single species hedges may be of historic importance and indicate early land enclosure. These hedges should only be replanted with the same species so as to retain this historic characteristic.

Many nurseries or local suppliers offer a 'conservation mix' or a 'Devon hedge mix' that will contain a mixture of species suitable for planting in a wide range of situations. Care should be taken with these, for example, if you are planting on a particularly exposed site or a coastal site prone to sea spray some species in the mix may not be suitable. On some very exposed sites it may not be feasible to plant a hedge at all, since only very hardy species such as gorse will survive.

When choosing the species mixture your choice will be influenced by soil conditions, altitude, exposure, your intended management regime and the composition of nearby hedges. A large percentage of the plants should be made up from the five species listed below:

Hawthorn - very versatile. Grows in most soil types and sites, except very high altitudes and heavy shade. Tolerant of heavy cutting. Blackthorn - slow growing, semi-shade tolerant, forms thick hedge which deters livestock. Excellent for exposed sites and sea spray. Hazel - thrives in drier soils, vigorous growth, produces straight sticks when laid or coppiced. Holly - shade tolerant, evergreen, slow growing, creates thick, stockproof hedge. Prefers light soils, not tolerant of wet clay. Best planted in September or early May to avoid frost. Beech - Should be planted only where Beech is locally typical. Forms a thick hedge but does not coppice well when mature.

The remainder should be made up of other suitable species as follows:

Hornbeam - useful to plant with Beech.



Oak - grows well in a wide range of soil conditions. Ash - not a good hedging plant as it is very fast growing, acceptable in small quantities. Produces straight sticks when laid or coppiced. Field maple - Favours lime-rich soils. Tough species, tolerates exposure. Dogwood - suited to lime-rich soils. Spindle - suited to lime-rich soils. Dog rose - flowers and fruit valuable for insects and birds. Rowan - suited to acidic soils. Useful on exposed upland sites where little else will grow. Wych elm - useful in small quantities.

Wayfaring tree - grows in alkaline conditions.

Willow - useful in wet conditions where little else will grow.

Honeysuckle - a key species for Dormice.

If in doubt check the suitability of different species with your supplier or with your local adviser.

Hedge trimming Hedges managed by trimming should be trimmed no more than twice in every five years and this should be rotated to avoid cutting all the hedges in the same year. (If necessary, road-side hedges may be trimmed every year). This is because most trees and shrubs in hedgerows only produce flowers, nuts and berries on year old twigs meaning that cutting every year will deplete food and nectar supplies for insects, birds and mammals. A mixture of heights and widths will provide the best range of habitat.

Hedges should be trimmed to maintain a minimum height of 1 metre of shrubby growth where the hedge is on top of a bank (unless your agreement prescriptions specify otherwise). Never trim to exactly the same height each year as this removes all new shoots and results in the

old stems becoming woody and brittle with little thickness at the base of the hedge. Instead, allow the hedge to become incrementally larger at each trim.

A percentage of hedges on each holding should be managed traditionally in preparation for laying. This involves allowing the tops to grow up, side trimming them only as necessary until they are at a suitable height and stem size to lay. For those hedges containing fast growing species (such as ash or sycamore) or where the hedge has been left untrimmed for more than three years, it is advisable to trim using a circular saw or cutter bar machine rather than a flail trimmer.

Trimming should ideally take place during January or February whenever possible, otherwise between October and February. Never cut during the bird nesting season, generally early March to end of July.

Figure 19 Hedge trimming in preparation for laying

Trimming should ideally take place during January or February whenever possible, otherwise between October and February. Never cut during the bird nesting season, generally early March to end of July.

Please note: hedgerows in the Higher Level Stewardship option 'Maintenance of hedgerows of very high environmental value (HB12)' should follow the trimming requirements in the agreement document. These will have been agreed with your local adviser, and set to suit



the particular needs of an identified target species or to suit local landscape requirements.

Supplements A number of supplementary payments are available for work associated with field boundary restoration, including substantial preparatory work, removal of old fence lines, difficult sites, top wiring and for the supply of suitable stone. Please see the appropriate scheme handbook for further details.

Statutory designations Felling Licence Before beginning work on hedges you should consider whether you will need a Felling Licence. A Licence is required when more than five cubic metres (about five tons) are to be felled for domestic use, and where two cubic metres are to be felled for commercial use, within one calendar quarter. One cubic metre is roughly the same as an average pick-up load of logs.

Remember that the regular laying or coppicing of hedges does not normally require a Felling Licence, but when neglected or mature hedges are being restored a Licence may be required.

A Felling Licence is free and can be obtained from the Forestry Commission. They can be contacted on: 01626 890666.

Tree Preservation Orders Care must be taken as individual trees on hedge banks or old hedges that have become a line of trees, may be subject to a Tree Preservation Order (TPO). You can find out more about this from your local planning authority.

Hedgerow Regulations Regulations for the protection of hedgerows came into force in 1997. In brief, it is against the law to remove most hedgerows without permission. To apply for permission you must write to your local planning authority giving them plenty of notice of your plans. Hedgerows removed without permission may incur an unlimited fine and the hedge may have to be replaced.

Please also remember that hedge removal is prohibited under any agri-environment scheme.

Public Rights of Way Where work is to be carried out on or adjacent to a Public Right of Way, you must not obstruct or damage the path during work. Gates or stiles for public access must be retained. As a precaution, warning signs must be erected in potentially hazardous situations to warn people of work in progress.

Standards of work Please note that when undertaking any work as part of an agreed capital works programme, the agreement holder will be held responsible for the standard of completed work.

Take care when employing contractors. Ensure that they are reputable and that good communication is established between the agreement holder and the contractor, to avoid misunderstandings that may be difficult to rectify later.

With this in mind ensure that they are given all necessary restoration guidance and work specifications at the outset. A list of contractors is available from your local adviser on request. This provides details of people who are known to us as contractors in their respective areas of work. However, Natural England does not approve specific contractors and accepts no liability for any work they do.

Inspections of completed work are regularly made by Natural England staff, often at the claim stage. Payments may be withheld in the case of sub-standard work.

Fencing Fencing should be completed in accordance with Defra specifications. If these are not included in your agreement they can be obtained from your local adviser. However, in addition please note the following:

• New fences should not be installed on archaeological sites or historic features without consultation with the Local Authority Archaeologist and/or English Heritage.



• Fencing must not restrict access routes or interfere with open landscapes.

• New fences to be erected on Common Land, and on the Common side of boundaries bordering a Common will need special approval from the Secretary of State (Contact Defra's Common Land Branch for more details).

• Post and wire fencing may be used in conjunction with rabbit netting to provide support for the netting, to protect a newly restored hedge.

Further information Useful contacts for advice on hedge management BTCV, Devon & Exeter Arts Centre, Bradninch Place, Exeter, EX4 3LS. Tel: 01392 424647 Dartmoor National Park Authority, Parke, Haytor Road, Bovey Tracey, Newton Abbot, TQ13 9JQ. Tel: 01626 832093 Defra, Nobel House, 17 Smith Square, London, SW1P 3JR. Tel: 08459 335577 www.defra.gov.uk/ Devon Hedge Group, County Hall, Topsham Road, Exeter, EX2 4QD. Tel: 01392 382000 Website: www.devon.gov.uk/hedges

Devon Rural Skills Trust, Visit the website at www.devonruralskillstrust.co.uk/ Devon FWAG, Unit 4, Halthaies, Bradninch, Exeter, Devon, EX5 4LQ. Tel: 01392 882080. Forestry Commission, Mamhead Castle, Mamhead, Nr. Exeter, Devon, EX6 8HD. Tel: 01626 890666 Natural England, Estuary House, Peninsular Park, Rydon Lane, Exeter, EX2 7XE

Authors and contributors This Information Note was developed from an RDS Technical Advice Note compiled by Kerry Smith. Line drawings were sourced from the Devon Rural Skills Trust, Catherine Burgess and Sarah Hoddinott (Exmoor National Park). Technical help with illustrations was provided by Rob Sibley.

Natural England Technical Information Notes are available to download from the Natural England website: www.naturalengland.org.uk

For information on other Natural England publications contact the Natural England Enquiry Service on 0845 600 3078 or e-mail: [email protected]

http://www.defra.gov.uk/

http://www.devon.gov.uk/hedges

http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/

mailto:[email protected]

Natural England Technical Information Note TIN039 -...

Documents

Transcript of Natural England Technical Information Note TIN039 -...